Standard hydrangea: methods of cultivation and rules of care. Create a stem tree from hydrangea
In my pruning lectures ornamental plants I talk in some detail about the formation of a tree hydrangea, which has long become popular and beloved among our gardeners. Recently, however, gardeners have increasingly become interested in the formation of another hydrangea - paniculate, so I think it's time to talk about it.
Paniculata hydrangeas have long been known in culture. The very first garden cultivarGrandiflorabegan its march through countries and continents in 1860. It is not surprising that it is he who is the most common. It has many advantages - frost-resistant, unpretentious, grows quickly, blooms beautifully, reproduces easily, lives long.
However, there are still disadvantages. And the main one is strongly decumbent, fast-growing young shoots that are not able to stay right under the weight of large and heavy inflorescences. In winter, young shoots may not withstand the weight of snow and ice and break. As a result, many gardeners have come to the conclusion that it is better to spend several years on the formation of a bush than to correct its sloppy shape all the time.
FOR PROFESSIONAL FLOWERING
Hydrangea paniculata forms inflorescences on the branches of the first order. In order for such shoots to become more, before the start of the growing season, the bushes must be severely cut annually. This stimulates branching, and therefore abundant flowering.
Prune early in spring, before buds open. If you are late with this, then the plant develops poorly and sometimes does not even bloom. If everything is done correctly, then the hydrangea blooms this year, forming lush inflorescences up to 40 cm long at the end of each shoot.
First of all, weak and thickening shoots should be completely removed. Do not be afraid to cut off frozen shoots. If cut back to healthy wood, they will bloom the same year. The remaining annual shoots are shortened, leaving 3-5 pairs of buds.
The number of inflorescences increases every year. So, at 5 years old, a hydrangea will have about 30 inflorescences, at 6 years old - 60, at 13 years old already 375! The inflorescences preserved on the bush should be cut in late autumn so that the branches are not broken by snow. However, some gardeners prefer to leave everything as it is, as they believe that the hydrangea then hibernates better.
The shrub reproduces well by cuttings that remain after spring pruning. Of these, cuttings are harvested with 4 - 5 buds, put for 2 days in a weak solution of a root formation stimulator, and planted in a nursery in a looseacidic soil to a depth of two buds.
BUSH FORM
If you prefer to grow hydrangea paniculata in the form of a bush, then you should not waste time and let it get neglected. Correcting such bushes is quite difficult. It is best to form a bush while it is young.
Usually panicled hydrangea, propagated by cuttings, goes on sale either after the first or after the second wintering. It is better not to touch the one-year-old, but to let it take root and prove itself. The following year, she may already have leading shoots. Depending on their nature, you need to decide whether you can do the shaping or not.
To begin with, you should choose from 3 to 5 shoots growing at an angle of about 30 ° to the vertical. All others should be cut for the first few years until your leading shoots are thick and hard enough to withstand any snow.
The size of the bush boles can be different. It depends on the size of the growth of lateral branches. After all, the main task in the formation of the bush form is to raise the flowering part of the bush above the ground. So, if the annual growth of branches is about one meter, then the trunk should also be about the same - otherwise the inflorescences will lie on the ground. In order to point these stems in the direction you choose, straight without bending, you can attach them to supports driven in at the desired angle.
After you have completed the formation of boles, you can already allow the bush to begin branching. In the future, all side branches should be shortened to 2 - 4 buds every spring and cut off the entire root growth. Old bushes can be rejuvenated by pruning on perennial wood or on a stump. After that, the decorativeness of the bush is restored in the second year.
STAMP FORM
A very decorative hydrangea is paniculate, grown on a trunk in the form of a tree. Perennial shoots become woody, covered with a thick layer of bark and are no longer able to form new shoots. This is the basis for the idea of forming paniculate hydrangea into a tree. The formed stem part ceases to give lateral shoots, and only the top continues its development - branching and growth.
The tree is grown in the following way. Among the rooted cuttings, the strongest and tallest are chosen, planted separately, and for 3-4 years they are engaged in the upbringing of the bole.
Hydrangea Grandiflora, grown in standard form in the Botanical Garden of St. Petersburg
In addition to the main shoot coming from the base, all the rest should be pinched in the summer in one or two doses. This contributes to an increase in the diameter of the stem, so such branches are called thickening shoots. When they fulfill their function, they should be cut out in June "on the ring." Annually, at the beginning of the growing season, the leading shoot is shortened to a well-developed bud.
At a height of 1 - 1.5 m, a crown is laid. Choose 4 - 5 buds, from which they form skeletal branches. The stem is now pruned annually, and the branches below begin to shorten each spring to create a dense crown. In subsequent years, do not forget to clean the bole from the lower newly formed side shoots so that the energy of the plant in the future is directed only to the upper branches that form the crown.
We can clearly distinguish the skeleton of a standard hydrangea tree
Different varieties differ in the nature and speed of growth of branches. Therefore, depending on what kind of paniculate hydrangea you are forming, you must choose either a weeping or upright tree shape. For weeping varieties, the trunk is made higher - 1.3 - 1.5 m, to make room for falling branches. For upright varieties such as Kuishu or Tardiva, the main trunk is usually cut at a height of 0.9 - 1.0 m.
Sergei Tarnuev
Standard plants in the garden have always attracted increased attention, as something extraordinary. It would seem that a completely standard rose or currant, but it grows in a completely different way than it should. And it is already difficult to call it a bush. Imagine: on a perfectly even high trunk there is a dense crown-cap or a cascade of falling branches. The most interesting thing is that a similar effect was achieved not by introducing new variety groups, but by using correct formation or vaccinations. Usually specialists are engaged in the cultivation of stems, and amateur gardeners acquire them already formed in nurseries. However, you can try and create a standard culture yourself - it's not too difficult if you know some of the nuances. We will talk about them now.
Of course, the most luxurious standard plants are flowering species: roses, hydrangeas, Japanese chaenomeles, budley. In the form of a bole, Hungarian lilac and viburnum Buldonezh are also grown. If desired, and with a certain amount of perseverance, plants that give active basal shoots which will need to be removed regularly. Among such difficult species, the common lilac and mock orange are the most preferred.
Some ornamental leafy plants can also look very impressive in the form of a bole. For example, goat willow has a luxurious weeping crown, which in early spring covered with fluffy flowers-earrings. The Japanese willow with a variegated crown tending upwards will also unusually decorate the garden. Mountain ash, maple, ash, gooseberry, currant and many other species are grown as stems.
An alley of standard lindens in autumn is an incredible sight
So far, standard forms are not very common. coniferous plants- spruce, pine, arborvitae, larch, cypress. Therefore, if you want to be original - choose to decorate Alpine slide or their front garden.
Obtaining a stem with the help of shaping
The easiest way, if you are a person who is far from gardening delights, is to try to create a trunk by forming a trunk and cutting off the crown. This method will require a significant amount of time, but the result will meet the wildest expectations.
To bring this idea to life, it is important to choose the right young seedling. planting material should be as even as possible, without knots. Immediately after landing, its trunk is tied to a vertical support - a wooden or metal peg driven into the ground.
Further, as it grows, it is necessary to tie the growing top to the support, and ruthlessly remove all side shoots. This procedure continues until the trunk reaches the desired height. Only then can you pinch the apical shoot so that the crown begins to grow. Very quickly, young shoots will begin to appear near the pinching point, which, as they grow, also need to be pinched. Then the crown will turn out thick and fluffy.
Vaccination is another opportunity to get a beautiful bole
In this case, a scion is grafted onto the stock, which will serve as a trunk, - the future crown. First you need to decide on the stock. Usually this is a plant of the same botanical genus as the cultivated part, but genetically stronger. For example, a rose is traditionally grafted onto a wild rose, a weeping elm is grafted onto a rough elm, etc. You can go a more complicated way, "crossing" related plants different types, for example, a scion of a pear easily takes root on a mountain ash trunk, and a scion of a Siberian cedar - on a pine. Such mixes can enter the fruiting period much earlier, for example, a pear on a mountain ash trunk bears fruit already 2-3 years after planting.
In order to get a beautiful stem plant by grafting, a stem is first grown. They do this in the same way as with the shaping method, that is, the seedling is tied to a support, the side shoots are removed and they wait until it grows to the required height. After that comes the time of grafting using a suitable cutting. cultivated plant, on which there are 3-4 living kidneys. It is best to carry out this process in early to mid-April. To do this, cut off the top of the bole trunk with a sharp knife, and then on this cut in the middle they make another vertical incision - a split.
At this time, an oblique cut is made on the scion handle above the upper kidney, and a wedge is formed from the lower part with two oblique cuts. The resulting wedge, carefully so as not to damage the trunk, is inserted into the split and the junction is tied with plastic tape. In order for the top of the cutting not to start to rot, the cut is treated with garden pitch.
After a month, the buds should awaken on the accustomed cuttings, from which young shoots will go. They need to be monitored and pinched in time to form beautiful crown. Already at the end of the second season, if the seedling is properly cared for, you will receive a well-formed bole that you can be proud of.
In fact, creating such a miracle is not difficult, but it takes time and patience. If you have all this, try growing a standard plant and it will definitely become a precious pearl in your garden.
Hydrangea - beautiful plant characterized by a long flowering period. If you know how to form a bush, you can achieve even better results. Some varieties can even produce creepers. Distinctive feature flowers - this is an amazing variety of shades of flowers. In this article, the reader will learn how to grow a hydrangea on a trunk.
Features of agricultural technology
This plant should be planted in autumn or early spring. Moreover, if the grower lives in the northern regions of Russia, then it is preferable to plant him in the spring so that the plant can grow, take root and put down the root system. A place for planting a flower must be chosen in advance and prepare the soil in time. Plants like it to be acidic and well hydrated. The landing site should not be too shaded.
For planting, a hole is formed, with a width, length and depth of about 30 cm. Fertilizers (organic and mineral), sand must be added to it. All this is mixed with turf. After the seedling is placed by hand in the hole, it is additionally covered with peat. The planted bush is watered and mulched (best with humus). The plant grows equally well in the light and in partial shade.
Hydrangea
For the winter, a plant growing in the northern regions of Russia must be removed to a cool room, where the temperature does not drop by less than 4ºС. This is due to the fact that the plant does not tolerate frost well. In the southern regions of the country, the plant tolerates winter better, and therefore it can be planted in the fall. You can grow it in open soil with shelter (spruce branches are suitable for this).
On a note! To increase the acidity of the soil, special fertilizers are used (for example, Pokon). It can be prepared at home if you mix ammonium nitrate, potassium sulfate and superphosphate.
Plant propagation
There are several propagation options for this plant. Each of them gives good results, subject to the basic rules of agricultural technology.
With the help of cuttings
Hydrangea can be propagated using cuttings. Best time harvesting them - April-June. To do this, choose annual and bright shoots, no more than 12 cm long.
Note! Cuttings need to be cut only at a right angle.
Leaves are removed from its lower part. This part is treated with a growth stimulator. Then the stalk is planted in the soil in a greenhouse. Landing is carried out for the winter, the plant must be sheltered from frost.
There is a method of winter cuttings. It is carried out only at large-leaved varieties hydrangeas. For this purpose, in October they dig mother plant. It is planted in a pot, placed in a room where the temperature does not exceed 2ºС. In the middle of winter, it is slowly raised to 10ºС.
Hydrangea cuttings
By February, last year's shoots are already ripening. Cuttings are cut from them. It is necessary to ensure that they have two internodes. Sections are treated with a growth stimulator and planted in nutrient soil.
The division of the bush
This plant can also be propagated by division. Hydrangea must be dug up and divided into several parts. Divide so that each part has a kidney, otherwise a new plant will not grow out of it.
After dividing, each part is planted in a pre-prepared place.
layering
This method of reproduction is used if the shoots are more than one year old. They are carefully bent to the surface of the earth and dug in so that the tops remain on the surface of the earth, no more than 20 cm high.
In the spring of next year, the shoot must be separated from the mother bush and transplanted according to the usual rules.
Reproduction of hydrangea by layering
standard hydrangea
Paniculate, large-leaved and tree-like varieties of hydrangeas can be grown on a trunk. It is not necessary to deepen such seedlings at all. Hydrangea paniculata on a trunk looks very beautiful and impressive with a smooth trunk and bright inflorescences. To create a trunk, you need to carefully monitor the plant for about three years.
The advantages of this growing method are:
- The hydrangea on the trunk is very attractive and decorative.
- The plant is winter resistant. Only in severe winters, young shoots should be covered with spruce branches.
- Standard forms of hydrangea are excellently grown in landscape design. With their help, gardens are formed in a unique Japanese style. It is with the help of stems that you can form beautiful and unique creepers.
- Such a hydrangea can be grown even on balconies in city apartments.
To create a bole, panicled standard hydrangeas are best suited. To create a support, a wooden or metal stake is deepened into the ground. A plant is strengthened on it in several places. side shoots pinch for the whole summer 2 times. The next summer they are cut out.
Note! The stem is best planted near a wall or fence so that it does not break off due to the wind.
You need to cut the ring so that the trunk thickens all the time. At the beginning of the growing season, it is shortened. The laying of the crown begins when the main shoot grows to one and a half meters. Then skeletal branches are formed.
Standard hydrangea as a tree is fully formed only in the eighth year. But all efforts during care are compensated by the life span of the plant - over 40 years. It is easy to form a crown with such a hydrangea. Sometimes shrubs and other undersized plants are planted under the tree.
standard hydrangea
For getting standard form vaccination is used. For this, a split is made in the standard part, where the cutting is grafted. It must contain at least three live kidneys.
The most important moment in caring for a standard plant is pruning. Flowering, the shape of the crown and its grooming depend on it.
plant care
The basic rules for caring for hydrangeas are:
- top dressing with mineral plants and fertilizers (they must be taken in moderation, since hydrangea does not like excessive amounts of fertilizer);
- use slurry and humus;
- water the flower regularly (moreover, it is necessary to ensure that the acid index of the water used for irrigation is about 5.6);
- loosening the soil (this procedure makes it possible to retain moisture, this plant does not like overdrying).
The rules for pruning a plant are as follows:
- you need to cut the shoots at a time when the buds are already swollen;
- the young shoot is cut to 4 buds;
- if the bush is old, then it must be updated, cut off at the root;
- in the first year of flowering, the flowers are removed: this will help to get very beautiful and abundant inflorescences the next year.
Important! If you purposefully and constantly cut the bushes, then after 5 years you can achieve the stunning beauty of the tree.
Hydrangea flowers may change color. For this, dyes are used. If at home a little potassium permanganate is added to the water for irrigation, the flowers will acquire a beautiful pink color.
Sheltering a plant for the winter allows you to achieve more early flowering.
Hydrangea shelter
Why hydrangea does not bloom
Even though it's relative unpretentious plant, not all flower growers succeed in having beautiful flowers.
The most common reasons for the absence of flowers on hydrangeas:
- Wrong fertilizer. If a large amount of nitrogen fertilizers are applied to the soil, they will contribute to a more intensive growth of foliage. To achieve flowering, potash and phosphate fertilizers must be applied. And for the winter you need to add fertilizers, which include phosphorus.
- Over pruning. If you cut off all the branches for the winter, then the next year the plant will definitely not bloom. You need to remove only old and dried branches from the bush.
- Incorrect shelter of the plant in cold winter leads to the fact that his kidneys freeze very much.
- Poor watering. The plant does not tolerate overdrying of the soil.
- Landing in a place where the sun's rays fall intensely. They can burn the buds and they will not bloom well.
- Buying a blooming specimen from the nursery in the store leads to the fact that it did not bloom the next year. It's because of drip irrigation and weak root system.
hydrangea neighbors
The best neighbors for this plant are those that have well-developed tubers. Boxwood, hostas, astilba are used.
astilbe flower
Hydrangea is not placed next to plants that have a poorly developed root system. They will inhibit flower growth. It is strictly forbidden to plant hydrangeas under trees. Such hydrangeas will suffer from dehydration and soon die.
top dressing
After two years, the plant needs to be fed. To stimulate growth, a solution of 25 g of carbamide, 35 g of potassium sulfate and 10 g of superphosphate is used. All this must be dissolved in 10 liters of water.
During the budding period, 50 g of potassium sulfate and 80 g of superphosphate are added per 1 m2 of soil. In July, you need to pour 10 liters of mullein solution under each bush. The same is done in August.
cultivation standard hydrangea quite laborious, especially for beginner gardeners. But the labor expended is worth it, because in a few years you can get a very beautiful flowering plant. You can plant a flower on any personal plot, then in a few years beautiful and unique landscape compositions will please the eye.
Nimfochka, Irina, weed everything carefully to the lawn. Everywhere they write that it is better to plant a lawn early autumn or already in August-September. They planted this way and that and concluded that it was not necessary to plant the lawn in early autumn, because at this time everything is activated, the growing season and weeds climb ahead of the lawn. Our lucky experience was, oddly enough, in June and August. They prepared the soil (as I already wrote above, they carefully cut everything before planting the lawn), leveled it, it is necessary that the earth be drowned, and before planting, loosen it with a rake so that the seeds linger in the grooves. The seeds were mixed with sand and sown thickly. Then everyone covered the special. fabric, it is very, very thin, like a cobweb, passes water well and prevents moisture from evaporating. When seeds germinate, they need to be watered frequently. It is good if you sow the seeds before precipitation. We guessed so often. Rains have a special energy of growth. How many times have I noticed that you water and water the plant, but it grows somehow, and when it rains, it starts to rage). But they also watered. Don't let the earth dry out. At good temperature and frequent watering seeds germinate in a week. Here we need to remove our fabric. And that's it, you will see a chic bristle lawn. Next care.
During the summer, water every other day in the evening or at night. We read that you can water the lawn in the morning until 10 am. Don't believe. The earth quickly dries out and the lawn does not have time to soak and turns yellow. That is, watering goes nowhere. We mow every week. This is also important. if you start and do not mow, then the lawn turns into green bumps and the carpet disappears. In the spring, the lawn grows faster and it happened that I had to mow twice a week. In summer, once is enough.
And the most interesting thing that we still do, every spring we thin out the roots of the lawn. Scientifically, this is called verticulation. Read about it on the Internet.
Everything in the complex gave us such a lawn) If you have any questions - ask) I will answer)
Saplings of fruit and berry crops Nursery My Tree
One of the best options for recreation, it is a walk and even work in your own garden. Flowers, trees and bushes that have been planted with my own hands and who have been carefully taken care of all the time - this is a great way to reconnect with nature and choose the best from it. A personal garden begins with a small one - with tree seedlings, thanks to which an adult plant grows.
Buy seedlings in Minsk you can in the online store, from the hands of private sellers and at gardening fairs. Purchase of future coniferous, deciduous, artisanal, fruit and berry trees in the store is profitable, because you are not only obliged to sell a quality product, but they can also advise the best technology planting, care and watering plants. Moreover, when buying in the online store, the seedling delivery service is connected, which is especially useful for bulk purchases. Buying plants "out of hand" is not always profitable, because there is a risk of falling for unscrupulous sellers who do not know what they are selling and how.
Find and Buy in Minsk quality seedlings exotic, common domestic plants are now easy. If you want to create your own "green corner", plant special varieties of berries or fruit trees- trust the professionals who select the best specimens among seedlings. The range of products will pleasantly surprise everyone, including not only fruit and berries, but also ornamental, shade-loving and other types of plants. Already looked after the required type? saw the new kind, which is not yet in the collection or which you have been looking for for a long time? Do you want to try something new and diversify the garden? We carry out profitable sales for the client low prices with high level service. Delivery of seedlings is carried out in a short time.
You can buy seedlings from us both with a closed root system and with an open one. At closed system there is the possibility of a longer stay in a pot or container (as a rule, such plants grow in them or germinate to right size). We offer quality plant seedlings various types own production.
HYDENSIA proper planting and care in the open field PHOTO
We describe the planting and care of hydrangeas in spring and autumn (tree-like, large-leaved (garden), paniculate and petiolate). Consider the place, soil, planting rules and step-by-step instructions, as well as watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter (Moscow region, North-West, Urals, Siberia and southern regions).
Planting hydrangeas in open ground: place, soil, distance and depth
- 1 Planting hydrangeas in open ground: location, soil, distance and depth
- 1.1 Step-by-step instruction planting hydrangeas
- 1.2 When is the best time to plant hydrangeas? Spring or autumn?
- 1.3 Hydrangea care after planting
- 2 Caring for garden hydrangea: the secrets of growing
- 2.1 Top dressing
- 2.2 Watering hydrangeas
- 3 Proper pruning hydrangeas: spring and autumn
- 3.1 Group No. 1 (large-leaved hydrangea (garden), prickly, serrate, oak-leaved, Sargent and petiolate)
- 3.2 Group No. 2 (tree and paniculate)
- 4 Caring for hydrangeas in the fall and preparing for winter
- 4.1 Preparing for winter and sheltering hydrangeas
- 5 Diseases and pests
- 6 Why does the hydrangea not bloom in the garden? What to do?
- 6.1 How to change the color of hydrangea flowers?
- 7 Helpful Hints hydrangea care
The plant is heat-loving, fast-growing and needs fertile soil and enough moisture.
We describe planting in open ground for any type of hydrangea: oak-leaved, large-leaved (garden), paniculate, serrate, tree-like, petiolate, Sargent and others.
Landing place
Hydrangea (all types) is a photophilous plant, it grows well in a sunny and open place, but bright sun and strong wind should be avoided. Therefore, at the peak of the heat, light shading is necessary, she loves diffused light very much.
At the same time, the shrub is able to grow well in light penumbra, in this case it blooms later with fewer flowers. The presence of sunlight in the morning, in the first half of the day is very important. Therefore, the east side is better suited than the west.
Soil and acidity
Hydrangea grows well on fertile, humus-rich clay soils. It develops worse on red soils, and sandy soils are contraindicated.
The optimum level of acidity is pH 5.2-6.0 (slightly acidic soil). The maximum brightness of inflorescences is observed precisely on acidic soil, and on the neutral slow development and pale color.
Alkaline soil leads to chlorosis (yellowing of leaves). When the bush grows on alkaline soil, there is often a lack of iron and magnesium, which is manifested by a light and pale color of the leaves.
Therefore, acidify the soil or treat the bush with an iron chelate. In past centuries, gardeners buried iron objects (nails, a can, a horseshoe).
When planting, a special balanced soil mixture with fertilizers is prepared.
soil mix
Composition: humus, turf land, leaf land and peat - equal parts or humus, garden soil (chernozem), peat and sand - 2: 2: 1: 1. As well as nutrients: 20-25 grams (table + teaspoon) of carbamide (urea), 24-29 grams of potassium sulfate (two tablespoons) and 60-70 grams of superphosphate (150-250 grams of bone meal).
If spruces and pines grow nearby, then under them you can dig up light, loose and slightly acidic soil. Some gardeners successfully grow flowers in such soil, even without fertilizing when planting.
A complete ban - lime, chalk and wood ash.
landing distance
Large-leaved - 120-160 cm, and paniculate 140-240 cm between bushes, and from the nearest large shrubs and trees - 230-300 cm. If you want to plant hydrangea in a row ( hedge, "mixborder"), then you can dig a trench 90-110 cm wide.
If you want to achieve earlier flowering, then when planting, dig holes closer to each other (70-80 cm), and after 2-3 years thin out the bushes if necessary.
landing pit
Depth - 36-45, width - 51-65 cm. The roots grow mainly in breadth, extending much further than the crown.
planting depth
The root neck should be at the level of the soil, a maximum of 2-3 cm below, otherwise the flower will develop poorly.
Step-by-step instructions for planting hydrangeas
When is the best time to plant hydrangea? Spring or autumn?
Best planting time: spring - early May and autumn - September. At the same time, the most favorable period to plant hydrangea in a cold climate is only spring, and in more southern regions it can be planted in spring and autumn.
Hydrangea care after planting
Preparing for flowering
For the first two years, cut off the inflorescences at the bud stage (“pea”). And then the plant will direct all its efforts to the development of the root system and the aerial part, which will ensure better flowering in subsequent years.
- Watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter - see the relevant sections.
Caring for garden hydrangea: the secrets of growing
Flower care consists of watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter. Spring is the best time to mulch trunk circle for more moisture retention. Scatter sawdust, peat, needles or wood chips in a 7-8 cm layer, with a diameter of 24-30 cm.
top dressing
When planting hydrangeas in a soil mixture with fertilizers, you can not feed them for the first two years. General rule fertilizing until July acidic fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate), and from July to October potassium-phosphorus (bone meal, superphosphate).
The plant's need for nutrients ah high as it grows quickly and blooms powerfully.
Mineral fertilizers can be supplemented with organic: infusion of mullein or bird droppings - 1:10. Repeat top dressing after 13-16 days.
- Not recommended for feeding wood ash. Fertilizers are well suited for heather species and rhododendron.
- Do not allow an excess of nitrogen, which leads to a decrease in winter hardiness, deterioration of flowering and promotes the development of rot. Apply only in April-May.
- Important! An overabundance of fertilizers, especially organic ones (mullein, droppings) will do more harm than a lack.
Watering hydrangeas
The flower is moisture-loving and needs regular watering. Drought is contraindicated, the lack of sufficient moisture leads to impaired development.
In dry and hot weather, water every 7-8 days with 15-20 liters of water. The usual schedule is every 13-16 days 15-25 liters of water, and if it is rainy in summer, then 4-5 times per season.
The lack of moisture in autumn reduces the winter hardiness of the plant, so if there is little rain in autumn, then additional watering is required.
Periodically add 2-3 grams of potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation to prevent the development of rot. Soft water is best for irrigation.
Watering better in the morning or in the evening in the trunk circle, when there is no scorching sun. After each watering, it is desirable to loosen the soil 5-6 cm deep around the plant.
Proper hydrangea pruning: spring and autumn
All species tolerate pruning well and need it, but each has its own characteristics. Pruning in the spring can be carried out only from 3-4 years of age. The most common types of hydrangeas in Russian gardens are divided into two groups according to the type of pruning.
Group No. 1 (large-leaved hydrangea (garden), prickly, serrate, oak-leaved, Sargent and petiolate)
These species bloom on last year's shoots and need sanitary and cosmetic pruning. Optimal time pruning - as soon as the buds swell a little, there is no active movement of juices, plus such pruned shoots can be rooted. Let's talk about the example of garden hydrangea.
Large-leaved hydrangea (macrophila) cannot be cut, but can only be rejuvenated. Every spring, cut every fourth branch older than 3 years, especially growing inward, so that the bush does not thicken, as well as dead, weak (thin) or broken stems under the root. Such pruning, in addition to giving more decorative form improves flowering.
Spring pruning of garden hydrangea (large-leaved)
Exception: modern varieties from the series "Forever and ever", "You & Me", as well as varieties "MiniPenny", which bloom on the shoot of the first and previous years. They are pruned depending on the condition of the plant and the past wintering.
- Petiole hydrangea is lightly pruned: long stems are shortened for better branching.
Group No. 2 (tree-like and paniculate)
These species that bloom on young shoots (current season) are pruned every year before bud break. best moment: mid - end of March (as soon as the snow melted). Annual formative pruning is required, as if the flower thickens, the inflorescences will become smaller.
Advice
- To thin out the bush, completely remove old, weak and inward-growing shoots annually.
- Cut frozen stems to the first living bud.
Bush rejuvenation
It is easy to rejuvenate an old bush with the help of special pruning: cut all shoots at a height of 5-7 cm from the ground level (“under the stump”) or to the level of perennial wood. next spring young shoots will begin to grow, and the decorative effect of the bush will be restored.
Should I prune hydrangeas for the winter?
In autumn, faded inflorescences are cut off from the hydrangea without fail so that the branches do not break under the weight of snow.
stamp form
Panicle hydrangea has the ability to grow in the form of a tree - a low trunk. Choose one of the most developed shoots on a two-year-old plant grown from the apical cutting, and cut the rest. Then prune this shoot to the strongest bud each year in the spring until it reaches 100 cm in height.
To form a crown in the following years, pinch the top of the shoot, and remove new shoots completely. In the future, weak shoots are pruned annually and only 4-5 strongest branches are left for bushiness.
An example of a standard form of paniculate hydrangea
Hydrangea care in autumn and preparation for winter
After flowering, autumn care for hydrangeas consists in removing faded inflorescences and preparing for winter.
- Tree-like hydrangea for the winter can not be covered, mulching is enough - it has high winter hardiness.
- In the conditions of the Middle Strip, the Moscow Region, the North-West, the Urals and Siberia, be sure to cover the hydrangea for the winter, and it is better to dig out the large-leaved hydrangea, transplant it into pots and bring it into the house.
Because the this species can be grown in areas where the temperature in winter is not lower than -23.5 ° C. The exception is some modern winter-hardy varieties, mentioned in the section - "cropping". - In more southern and warmer regions, hilling and mulching can be dispensed with.
Preparing for winter and sheltering hydrangeas
Inflorescences appear on last year's shoots (large-leaved hydrangea), and the goal is to completely preserve them from frost and decay.
Because leaves and flowers large-leaved hydrangea perish from small frosts at night, preparation for winter begins in the middle - end of October (after the first frosts).
- Hydrangea garden paniculata and large-leaved must be covered for the winter.
Preparing hydrangeas for winter 
Hydrangea shelter for the winter 
Upper layer winter shelter for hydrangeas
For short-term frosts, it is convenient to cover with lutrasil, white burlap or double layer films.
Shelter of a large-leaved hydrangea for the winter from a gardener from the Moscow region
Shelter for the winter of a young hydrangea
Young seedlings are not pruned, but simply brought into the house in pots for the winter or spud with earth and additionally cover 11-16 cm for the winter with a layer of peat, dry foliage, needles or sawdust.
When can I open hydrangea after winter?
In the spring, you need to remove the winter shelter from the hydrangea in right time to prevent the shoots from drying out.
Approximate terms for the Moscow region are indicated.
Winter hardiness of hydrangea
Now large-leaved hydrangea is increasingly grown in conditions middle lane Russia and in the Moscow region, in the Urals and Siberia. However, not all winter-hardy varieties are able to bloom in any area due to different microclimates.
The plant withstands up to -23 ° C, and the most winter-hardy are tree-like, paniculate and ground cover hydrangeas.
The winter hardiness of the plant increases if it received enough water in the fall, as well as potassium-phosphorus top dressing.
Diseases and pests
Hydrangea is very resistant to diseases and pests, but sometimes everything affects it. powdery mildew, spider mite and aphids (often indoors).
Why is the hydrangea not blooming in the garden? What to do?
We list the most common reasons for the lack of flowering.
How to speed up the flowering of hydrangeas?
To make the bush bloom faster, spray it as soon as the inflorescences are 2-4 cm in diameter twice with an interval of 5-7 days with gibberellins - 50 mg / liter of water. This treatment allows you to bloom 2-4 weeks earlier and get more massive and decorative flowering.
How to change the color of hydrangea flowers?
The flowers of the plant can change their color depending on the acidity of the soil, and the ability to accumulate aluminum.
Water the bush with a solution of potassium alum (100 g / 10 liters of water). To change the color, you need to carry out 3-4 waterings every 12-15 days. Therefore, they begin to water 50-70 days before flowering.
After that, white or pink flowers(weakly alkaline soil) will turn blue or blue, depending on the concentration. At the same time, alum reduces acidity, so you need to carefully use them. The price of 100 grams of alum is about 30-50 rubles.
- If you want to dry the hydrangea inflorescences for the winter, then cut them off immediately after the blooming of all the flowers. Tie in small bundles and hang down with flowers in a dark place to dry.
- Hydrangea can be grown at home as a pot culture. In autumn, she sheds her leaves, for the winter she is cut off and transferred to cool place(+4-6), and in late February - early March they put it in a bright and warm place without direct sunlight. In summer, the flower can be taken out into the open air and left until September.
- Experts advise planting ground cover species in the trunk circle: stonecrop, saxifrage moss and others.
ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:
1. REPRODUCTION OF GARDEN HYDROANGIA: ALL WAYS!
2. TYPES AND BEST VARIETIES OF HYDENSIA WITH PHOTO AND NAMES!
We wish flowers to cheer you up and make you a little happier!
Hydrangea – perennial shrub with large flower caps of various shades: from cream to lilac. The love of gardeners for him is not accidental. The plant is valued for the variety of varieties and species, high decorative characteristics, flowering from mid-summer to the first frost, the ability to grow in partial shade. Now you can buy hydrangea seedlings in Moscow to decorate the garden or plot. Unpretentious green pets adapt without any problems in the ground and bloom gorgeously.
Planting hydrangeas
The delicate culture does not tolerate the place under the sun, so you will have the opportunity to ennoble the most dark and boring parts of the garden. Under direct sunlight, the plant does not grow so intensively, and the inflorescences become smaller and become pale. Hydrangea seedlings are planted in early May in partial shade, in soil saturated with organic and mineral fertilizers. At the same time, the plant does not tolerate alkaline soil well. As companions, hydrangea sees with it shade-tolerant perennials, including conifers, aquilegia, and hosts.
Care
Ideal for watering rainwater or previously settled. garden hydrangea water abundantly in the morning or evening (two buckets each) once a week in the absence of drought.
The hydrangea is weather resistant and responds painlessly to pruning. Before wintering, the hydrangea is fed and protected with a covering material.
You will not regret at all the decision to buy hydrangea seedlings, because over time the shrub will turn into a real garden queen. Hydrangea will decorate a variety of styles personal plots, cottages and public park areas, creating a unique landscape design. Call us the best prices for hydrangea seedlings!
