What kind of wood are ax handles made from? Do-it-yourself ax (67 photos) - we create a combat, decorative and working tool

The ax is rightfully considered the “king” of the carpentry tool. A real carpenter, who is professional in his craft, knows how to make an ax that is ideal for a particular operation. The master, as a rule, has several axes, always ready for work. However, this tool is needed not only by carpenters, but also by ordinary people living outside the city in private houses, as well as citizens who go to summer cottages or on weekends. Each owner has to chop wood to heat the stove in the house or in the bathhouse. In order for this process to go faster and not cause trouble in the form of a flying ax, a dull blade or a broken ax handle, you must be able to properly prepare this tool for work and maintain it in “combat readiness” throughout the entire service life. The shape of the ax handle may be different. It is important to correctly fit the ax, wedge it, and then sharpen the blade at the right angle.

When buying an ax, or rather its stabbing part, you should pay attention to the quality of the metal used to make the tool. Look for the GOST sign on the ax, which confirms the compliance of the metal state standards and requirements. Be on the lookout if this sign is replaced by TU, OST or MRTU. In this case, the manufacturer can make changes to the technology. Soviet-era axes, which are of high quality metal, can be purchased at a flea market.

The quality of the metal can be checked and empirically, taking two axes and hit the blade of one of them on the blade of the other. For less quality product there will be notches after impacts. Also, the quality of the metal is checked by the characteristic sound that is made when the ax is tapped. In this case, the tool must be in a suspended state.

You should also pay attention to the following points:

a well-drawn blade should not have bends or dents;
taper shape of the eyelet;
alignment of the eye and the blade of the ax;
small thickness of the butt and perpendicularity of its ends to the blade.

Do not be upset if you cannot find an ax that meets all of these requirements. After all, the identified deviations can be eliminated by sharpening the burrs, boring the eye and giving the butt a symmetrical shape.

There will also be useful material on how to make a device for carrying firewood:

The choice of workpiece and the manufacture of an ax handle

The length of the ax handle is chosen based on the height and strength of the master. The quality of the wood also plays an important role. Lightweight axes, weighing about 800-1000 g, have handles from 40 to 60 cm long. For a heavy tool (1000-1400 g), the length of the ax varies from 55 to 65 cm.

The force of impact depends on the length of the ax handle. The longer the ax handle, the easier it is to chop wood chocks. The strength and height of a person also matters.

Not every type of wood is suitable for making an ax handle. For this purpose, a true master goes through the whole forest before he finds suitable tree. Most often, a blank for an ax handle is made from the root part of a birch, and preferably from growths on its trunk, which are distinguished by a special curly and very dense wood. Instead of birch, you can use maple, oak, acacia, ash and others. deciduous trees hard rocks. The blanks must be dried well in natural conditions, which will take a lot of time.

On the prepared workpiece, the contours of the future ax handle are outlined according to the selected template. A thickening should be provided at the end of the ax handle, designed to “brake” the hand in case the tool slips out. Then, excess wood that is outside the contour is removed with a knife, an ax with a perfectly sharpened blade, a chisel or a jigsaw, which is much faster. Having completed the fitting of the ax on the ax using a mallet, and making sure that these parts fit snugly, you can continue further finishing the tool handle. Glass is used for scraping, and fine-grained sandpaper is used for grinding.

Above is a drawing of an ax handle (a) that meets the requirements of GOST 1400-73, and below is a camp ax handle (b) with a zone of undisturbed fibers of 40 mm

Important! If the ax easily enters the eye, then this means that the master made a mistake in the calculations and drew the template incorrectly. In this case, even a driven wedge will not correct the situation, ensuring a short tight fit of the ax on the handle.

How to put an ax on the handle?

Below is an algorithm for carrying out operations, showing how to put an ax on a turned and polished ax handle. This is one of the possible ways:

Fit the top of the ax to the eye of the ax. At the same time, cut off excess wood with a knife. You should not use a file, as it “swings” the tree.
On the ax handle, placed in a horizontal position on the table, put the ax on top, and with a pencil mark on the handle the mark to which it will be mounted. Divide the segment in half and put a second mark.
Clamp the handle vertically in a vise with the wide end at the top. Take a hacksaw and make a cut to the second wedge mark.
Buy a metal wedge from the store or cut a wooden analogue, the thickness of which should be from 5 to 10 mm. The length of a wedge made for an ax with your own hands should be equal to the depth of the cut, and the width should be equal to the size of the ax eye.
Place a board on the table and place the ax on it, placing it upside down. Put the ax on the handle and start tapping it on the board. Then turn over and tap on the board with the handle of the ax handle, while the process of planting continues. Turning and tapping should be done several times. As a result, the ax handle will enter the eye.
Next, place the ax handle vertically and insert a planed wedge into the cut, hammer it with a mallet to half or almost to the end. With a hacksaw, saw off everything that remains sticking out from above.
Apply oil (motor oil, linseed oil, sunflower oil, etc.) to the handle, let the excess drip off and leave to dry. Wipe the ax and handle with a rag.

After fitting the ax to the ax handle, shown in figure (a), it is mounted (b) and the handle is wedged (c): 1 - ax, 2 - ax handle, 3 - wedge

How and at what angle is the ax blade sharpened?

So that the tool does not cause trouble, it is necessary to sharpen the ax blade correctly. According to the requirements of GOST, the sharpening angle of a construction ax should be 20-30 °. Carpentry tools are sharpened at a slightly larger angle of 35°. The recommended angles must be adhered to, as thinner blades will bog down in the wood. It will take extra effort to pull them out. On knots, a thin blade can easily bend. The blade sharpened at an angle of 35 °, breaking the chips separated from the main log, does not get stuck in the wood.

First, a “rough” primary sharpening of the ax is performed, during which it is possible to eliminate all the chips, minor damage and large potholes with a rotating grinding wheel. At the same time, a new clear cutting edge of the ax is being formed. Then the rough-sharpened blade is subjected to “finishing” sharpening. Grinding is carried out along the entire length of the blade on both sides with a fine-grained bar, which removes all burrs.

Three ways to sharpen an ax blade: a) a grinding wheel; b) a bar, moistened with water; c) dressing with a whetstone moistened with machine oil

Important! The gleam of an ax blade and the absence of cutting edge burr indicates that the sharpening process was successful.

How to properly store an ax?

After work, it is recommended to put on a cover made of thick leather, birch bark or other material on the ax blade. You can't leave an ax stuck in a log. A real master takes care of his tool, because the ax is an “extension” of his hands.

Having tried at least once to chop wood with a homemade ax, you will not be able to work with a shop tool. If you doubt your abilities, then use the services of craftsmen who know how to make a convenient ax handle for an ax from a selected and dried blank.

An ax is one of the most famous and affordable tools in the arsenal of most summer residents and professional craftsmen. If you use it correctly, you can simplify many workflows, resulting in an excellent result. An ax can not only be bought ready-made in a specialized store, but also made at home. It doesn't take much time, effort and Money. Today we will take a closer look at how to properly make an ax handle with your own hands.

How to select and prepare wood?

Many jobs are impossible without a well-sharpened and strong axe. This tool is often needed both in household and larger-scale work. In stores you can find many different models there are quite a few such tools, because there are quite a few types of axes themselves. Pick up perfect option possible according to any requirement.

But there are also cases when the consumer could not find a suitable tool for himself. Many people in such situations find a simple way out for themselves - they make an ax on their own. In order for the tool to turn out to be of high quality, reliable and durable, it must consist of good elements. So, to create an ax handle, it is very important to choose the right material.

Not every type of wood is suitable for creating this ax detail. It is believed that a real master will go around the whole forest before he finds the very tree from which it will be possible to make an ax handle. In most cases, the indicated element of the ax is constructed from the root section of the birch, and even better if the growths that are present on its trunk are used. These parts are distinguished by a very dense and wavy structure.

Birch is not single tree, from which a good ax can be obtained. Instead, it is permissible to refer to trees such as oak, maple, acacia, ash and other hardwood deciduous trees. According to experienced craftsmen, beech, oak, larch, walnut and elm produce the most reliable, comfortable and durable handles. High Quality. But it is not enough to find the ideal material for making an ax handle. We still need to properly prepare it for the upcoming work.

The blanks must be dried well. This is done only in natural conditions, and it often takes a very long time - an average of 3-4 years, and even longer is better (5 years will be enough). Wood should be dried exclusively in a dark and dry place where there is good ventilation. Precipitation, dampness and water should not penetrate into the space where natural material will be prepared. Otherwise, there will simply be no sense in such drying, and good ax handle do not work.

How to make a template?

If you have the material already prepared and dried to the desired degree, then you should proceed to the next step in creating an ax handle. Next, you will need to competently make a convenient template, which will be a great helper in further work.

Here it is important to take into account the fact that there are quite strict rules governing the shape of the ax handle based on the main type of device. So, light tools, the weight of which is usually from 0.8 to 1 kg, are usually made with a handle having a length of 0.4-0.6 m. As for the more “serious” heavy axes, there is a length of 0.55-0.65 m. It must also be taken into account that all existing species axes are divided according to their main functionality.

So, the following types of these tools are distinguished:

carpentry;
lumberjack;
branchy;
cleaver;
butcher's.

Before proceeding with the independent design of such a tool, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the detailed drawings of different models of handles.

When making a template, a number of important features should be taken into account.

So that in the process of work the ax does not slip out and does not jump out of the hands at the moment of swing, its “tail” must be made a little wider than the place of capture.
When making an ax handle for a cleaver, it is necessary to make a part 0.75-0.95 m long. Carpentry tools are made short. Their handle generally reaches the mark of 0.5 m.
To the parameter of the length of the handle, the will of the butt must be added another 8-10 cm for an allowance. It will be possible to cut it off after installing the butt. It is very important to ensure that the tree at this moment does not begin to split.

Template with it correct form and all sizes will need to be applied to paper or cardboard sheet.

Step by step instructions for making

It is not difficult to prepare an ax with your own hands. To do this, you must adhere to a not very complex technology for the work. Let's get to know her:

mark the workpiece using a template;
after that, it can be carefully cut with a jigsaw or other similar tool;
further, the prepared part will need to be turned on a special machine and polished.

There are a number important rules which must be adhered to in the course of work.

The processing of the fixing place of the ax handle must be carried out to the maximum carefully and accurately so as not to accidentally remove the excess part of the tree. Otherwise, the butt simply cannot be tightly fixed in its place. It is better to periodically try on the handle to the eye, so that in the end you get a small margin (no more than 2 cm).
Do not use a file in the process of finishing the part. This will inevitably loosen the tree. Because of this, it will be more difficult to work with him further. It is better to use not a file, but a finely abrasive sandpaper with a grinder. You will need to move the tool along the wood fibers.
Give the final, correct and nice shape the fixing place of the handle is necessary, taking into account the angle of the butt attachment. As for the cleaver, for him the indicated angle should be approximately 85 degrees. For a standard ax - 75 degrees.

At self-manufacturing ax handles must be handled very carefully. It's not worth rushing. If desired, you can decorate the handle of the tool with patterns and carved decorations (for example, you can wrap it with jute cord - it will also hold the blade more securely). When the ax handle is ready, it will be necessary to correctly install the cutting part on it.

Let's consider how to do it.

Adjust the top of the piece to fit the eye of the blade. Remove the excess part of the tree with a knife. Be careful.
On the handle, set horizontally, the cutting part must be placed on top. Then you need to put a mark on the handle with a pencil, to which it will drive in. Divide the segment and set another mark.
Lock the handle in a vertical position using a vise. The wide piece should be at the top. Prepare a hacksaw for metal. Make a cut exactly to the second mark under the wedge.

In specialized point of sale pick up a wedge from metal or make it yourself from wood.
Lay out the board on a separate countertop. Put a blade on it. Put it upside down. Throw the prepared ax on this part, tapping it on the board. Now turn the fixture over and tap the handle on the board. The part will continue to fit. These steps should be repeated many times. As a result, it will turn out to drive the ax into the eye well.
Then set the part in a vertical position. Install a wedge in the cut. Hit him with a mallet. Saw off excess protruding parts

How to protect from decay?

The wood from which the ax is made, like other similar materials, is subject to decay. Such problems always arise over time or in inappropriate storage conditions for the instrument. It is important to take care of a homemade ax in advance, protecting it from decay. It is strongly not recommended to use compounds such as varnishes or paints to protect wooden handles. The ban on the use of such compounds is due to the fact that their presence on the handle can lead to its slipping out of the hands during certain work. The reason for this is the glossy smooth texture.

The optimal solution to protect the ax from rotting, other suitable impregnations will become. Handle can be covered linseed oil or good old drying oil. There are other highly effective antiseptics that will extend the life of natural wood. But keep in mind that they will need to be applied periodically. Don't forget this process.

Some masters add to antiseptic protective equipment red pigment. They turn to such a trick not at all to make the tool more interesting. appearance. After this coating, the ax will be much easier to find in the grass, because its color will become brighter.

Please note that the ax handle should be made so that its cross section has a characteristic oval shape. Only by observing this condition, it will be possible to successfully hold it, without straining the hand too much. Ax strikes will be more accurate and easier. It is recommended to make wood blanks for creating an ax handle in late autumn. It is during this period that the movement of juices is minimized (almost stops), which means that the tree becomes, as it were, dehydrated.

Many inexperienced craftsmen neglect the drying of wood for the construction of an ax handle. As a result, this ends with the fact that the handle changes in size, and the metal part with the butt on it is held very poorly. It is permissible to deal with undried material only in special situations, when the handle needs to be built urgently, and this spare part is made as a temporary one.

When making a brand new ax handle yourself, you need to draw up a detailed drawing / template of the future tool. If you have a very handy old ax in your arsenal, then you can remove all parameters from it. This will make it much easier and more convenient. Do not rush to turn the cutting edge of the tool. First you need to make sure that the metal is sufficiently hard. If it turns out to be too soft, then it will need to be additionally hardened under the influence high temperatures.

It is permissible to start sharpening the ax blade only after it is installed on the ax handle.

A ready-made ax (both homemade and store-bought) is very important to use correctly. Experienced craftsmen it is strongly not recommended to try to cut various metal parts with such a device. Even if you plan to cut wood, it's best to make sure there are no solids inside that could harm the tool.

It is strongly not recommended to throw the finished tool on hard surfaces, especially from a great height. The ax is not recommended to be left outdoors. Precipitation or aggressive sunlight may adversely affect the quality wood detail. Keep such an instrument in a dark and dry place. Only under this condition will the ax serve you for many years.

A tool with ready-made ax handles is always on sale. But what is offered in specialized stores is not always suitable. The length of the ax handle should be such that it is convenient for the master to work. But each person has his own height and strength. Therefore, it is better to make an ax with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself wood harvesting for an ax handle

In order to make an ax handle with your own hands, you must first select the appropriate material. It is better to do this in late autumn: at this time of the year, sap flow practically stops and the wood will be as dense and dry as possible. The following types of wood are suitable for an ax handle:

hornbeam;
rowan (old tree);
ash;
acacia;
Apple tree.

The highest density is characterized by birch wood, taken from the root section of the trunk. The hatchet from it will last a long time.

Tip: to make an ax handle, you need to stock up on wood in such an amount that you get several blanks. During operation, some workpieces may be damaged or rejected.

Blanks for an ax handle

Drying blanks for ax handle

Do-it-yourself ax handle should be made from dry wood. Drying of blanks in natural conditions should be carried out within 3-4 years. Drying conditions: dark and dry ventilated area, protected from precipitation.

Important: making an ax handle with your own hands from insufficiently dry material will not desired result. Further drying of the wood will cause it to warp and warp.

We make a template for an ax handle with our own hands

Exists strict rules, regulating the shape of the ax handle, depending on the type of tool. For light axes (0.8 - 1.0 kg), the handle is made 0.4 - 0.6 m long, and for heavy axes (up to 1.4 kg) - 0.55 - 0.65 m. Axes also differ in according to its function:

lumberjack;
carpentry;
branchy;
cleaver;
butcher's ax

Types of axes depending on the functional purpose

How to make an ax handle with your own hands: drawings of various models.

When making a template, consider the following.

In order for the ax handle not to jump out of the hand when swinging, its tail part is made slightly wider than the gripping one.
An ax for a cleaver with your own hands should be made in a length of 0.75-0.95 m. Carpenters' axes with a shorter ax handle - about 0.5 m.
To the length of the ax to the will of the butt, you need to add 8-10 cm for an allowance. It can be cut off after the butt is put on. It is important that the wood does not split.

What allowance should be left when making an ax handle with your own hands - a video for your attention.

Note: the template can be obtained by attaching to the workpiece and outlining the finished ax good quality. In this case, do not forget to add an allowance.

Ax manufacturing technology

To understand how to make an ax handle with your own hands, you should familiarize yourself with the technology. The whole process consists of three stages:

marking the workpiece using a template;
sawing the workpiece with a jigsaw or other tool;
turning and grinding.

There are several rules that must be observed in the process of work.

The processing of the fixing section of the ax should be done carefully so as not to remove excess wood. Otherwise, the butt will not sit snugly in its place. The ax must be periodically tried on to the eye in order to eventually leave a margin of about 2 mm.
It is not recommended to use a file when finishing the part: this loosens the wood and complicates its further processing. the best way considered to be the use of fine abrasive sandpaper With grinder. The movement of the tool is along the fibers.
It is necessary to give the final shape to the fixing section of the ax handle, taking into account the angle of the head of the butt. For a cleaver, this angle is chosen equal to 85°, for an ax - 75°.

Wedging an ax handle

Making an ax handle with your own hands: a video for those who use conventional tools in their work.

How to protect an ax handle from rotting

The wood of the ax under the influence of moisture gradually becomes unusable. The instrument must be protected from damage. For processing the handle, you can not use covering agents, which include paints and varnishes. In this case, the tool may slip out of your hand. For protection, it is recommended to use drying oil or linseed oil. There are other antiseptics that are absorbed into the wood.

It is necessary to process the ax handle in several steps. Each new stage processing should be carried out after complete absorption of the previously applied agent.

Treatment of the ax handle with a protective agent

Tip: You can add a bright red pigment to the ax handler. As a result, the tool will be clearly visible in thick grass and can be easily found in case of loss.

At the end of the article on how to make an ax handle with your own hands - a video where the master clearly demonstrates the basic working methods.

For those who live in own house, it is often necessary in the country and on hikes such a tool as a taiga ax. A good quality working tool is expensive and hard to find.

An ax from the market is not always of good quality. Therefore, we will make our own ax using improvised means.

Varieties of axes

Consider the variations of axes:

A cleaver is a heavy conical axe. Due to its high weight, it is well suited for cutting large, hard woods.
Carpentry - small weight and size, has a pointed blade. Used for careful, precise, accurate work with wood.
Taiga - suitable for felling trees, harvesting trees, building a hut, removing bark, branches.
Tsalda - designed to clean the area from shrubs.
Kitchen (cooking) - designed only for chopping bones. It is a small hatchet, with a short handle and a large "blade".
Lesorubsky - used only for cutting trees. It consists of a long ax handle and a wide, sharp blade.

Of all the above species, the taiga ax is more necessary and more useful than all.

Distinctive features taiga ax:

Light weight.
A small area of the piercing surface (makes it possible to drive it as deep as possible into the wood).
Specific sharpening of the blade (the rear edge is much smaller, thinner than the front.

This feature is designed to be used this species an ax like a cleaver (if the blow is struck correctly. A regular ax has a blade of the same shape for precise work with wood).

Making a taiga ax

Handle material

The function of the ax is primarily affected by its shape and length. The handle must be curved shape, and the cross section is oval.

For the handle, species of trees such as maple, oak, ash, birch are best suited. Since these types of wood tolerate vibration well upon impact.

Wood harvesting starts in autumn

Dry in a dark place. Before use, wood must be stored for about one year, and preferably five.

Only felled wood is not advisable to use as it will dry out over time and will not hold in the eye.

Create a cardboard template

On a large cardboard sheet, we outline the shape of the handle and apply it to a wooden blank. The template will help us make a more accurate handle.

Handle material preparation

A one-year-old wood block is hewn parallel to the fibers. The blank for the handle should be longer than the template. We make the place that is inserted into the eyelet wider than the main part.

On both sides we circle the attached drawing, while not forgetting to leave allowances. After inserting the upper part into the eyelet in this way, we remove the excess wood.

Steps to cut an ax handle

Before cutting the handle, you need to make transverse cuts, but so that they do not reach the line of the future handle by about 4-5 mm. With the help of a chisel, we remove the remains of wood and excess allowances.

Ore transitions and corners are performed by turning with a rasp. After the workpiece is done, we bring the sandpaper to smoothness.

Buying a stabbing part for a taiga hatchet

It is unrealistic to make a blade in a domestic setting. In this case, here is a list of what you need to focus on when buying it on the market or in a hardware store:

The presence of GOST marking (indicates the quality of steel);
The hole for the handle (eye) must be cone-shaped;
The blade is smooth, without defects;

Collecting an ax

We cut the upper part of the handle along and across.
Cut into five pieces of hard wood.
We wrap the top of the handle with gauze soaked in resin for better entry into the hole in the blade.
Using a hammer, drive in the handle.
Hammer the prepared pieces into the cuts at the top of the ax handle.
After the structure dries, cut off the protruding parts of the wooden pieces.

Note!

Sharpening the stabbing part of the taiga ax

A properly sharpened blade gives excellent performance of the hatchet. In accordance with the activity that you will perform with an ax, the sharpening angle depends.

The sharpening of the taiga ax is performed at an angle of 30-35 ̊. If they will perform work with fresh wood, then we sharpen at an angle of 25 ̊.

If you use a grinding wheel for sharpening, then the ax handle must be held at an angle of 40-45 ̊. We reproduce the sharpening slowly, carefully.

If you have everything in stock the right tools, Photo step by step manufacturing ax, then its creation will not take a lot of time, effort and money, and in return you will receive a high-quality ax made by yourself.

But do not forget that with a piercing part made of high-quality metal, the ax will last much longer and if the handle is treated with linseed oil, then it will not rot and deteriorate.

DIY ax photo

Note!

The ax is one of the oldest tools used by man in his activities. He has come a long way, accompanying the evolution of man from a stone great-grandfather to a modern product made of steel of the highest quality. The scope of this tool has the widest range both in all kinds of industrial production, and in home use. The need for its use will not decrease in the near future.

Tool classification

Depending on the application, they may have different shape designs and size.

The specialization of this tool can be classified as follows:

Lumberjack ax.
Large and small carpenter's ax.
Cleaver for cutting firewood.
Tourist or hunting camp hatchet.
Hatchet for the kitchen.
All kinds of souvenir axes imitating ancient military weapons.
Sports tomahawk for throwing at targets.
Firemen's axe.
Butcher's ax.

Some design differences

Specialization may give rise to some design differences between axes, but basically any of them consists of two parts: a working chopping metal part and a handle attached to it, called an ax handle. The hatchet is mainly made of wood.

Some tourist and kitchen models can be made entirely of metal with wooden or plastic overlays to give the flat metal handle the desired shape.

The lumberjack tool is distinguished by a rounded blade and an elongated ax handle. It is most often used for harvesting brushwood from branches. To harvest firewood from logs, a special type of cleaver ax is used. Its metal part is more massive than that of conventional axes, and has more obtuse angle pointed cutting part.

A longer ax handle also has a firefighter's gun. In addition, similar axes can differ significantly and backside a metal part called a butt. For conventional tools, it is simply flat, while for firefighters this part can be made in the form of a hook or a sharp narrow wedge.

The butt of a kitchen ax is usually made in the form of a hammer for beating meat, and an ax with a round cross section produced on lathe.

carpentry axes

This type of ax is probably the most used in the world. Even with modern technologies no construction can do without such an ancient tool. Its versatility is unique.

Carpenter's axes are large, they are used for cutting logs, for making all kinds of notches during construction wooden houses and other structures.

Small hatchets that are used for smaller jobs.

The chopping blade of a carpenter's ax is usually straight and very sharp.

The hatchet is of various types. Its shape as a whole depends on the personal preferences of the owner, aimed mainly at the convenience of working with such a tool. Often good ax- the face of a carpenter, as a specialist. good master cherishes this instrument more than any other. Therefore, he never uses a purchased ax handle, but makes it personally for himself. However, in skillful hands it is very rare to change it.

Manufacturing methods

For an ordinary person, one has to use an ax most often when working on suburban area. Here, along with the work inherent in such a tool, not very skilled workers are used for various works. Therefore, ax handles, as a rule, do not withstand prolonged use, and they have to be changed quite often.

Most suitable material for the handle is birch. It is a durable, relatively light and smooth material to work with. For zealous owners, it will be useful to place birch bars to dry. Birch should be dried for a long time, at least 3-5 years, and always out of direct sunlight. To make a good ax handle, you need exactly well-dried birch. Otherwise, it will dry out in the ax itself, the handle will begin to dangle, which can lead to significant inconvenience in work and injury.

There are several various ways how to make an ax correctly. But all of them can be divided depending on the technological equipment:

With the help of electric woodworking mechanisms ( a circular saw, planer, different kind polishing).
Manually from finished boards using a planer, rasp, and so on.
Handmade from birch logs.
With a minimum of tools.

Technological production of an ax handle

First of all, the necessary workpiece is cut on woodworking machines. All its dimensions (width, thickness and length) are made with a small margin for further adjustment.

The thickness and width are determined by the dimensions of the inlet of the ax, which is called the eyelet and is located at the bottom. It must be remembered that the upper outlet is much wider than the lower one, and it is impossible to confuse them when making measurements.

For the convenience of further processing, it is advisable to plan the workpiece on planer to make its cross section approximate to a triangular shape with acute angle at the bottom of the future hatchet. Using a cardboard template, a drawing of an ax handle of the selected shape is applied to the workpiece. The template can be made by making a drawing according to the dimensions of an old broken tool, or you can find suitable shape ax handles in the sources of specialized literature or the Internet.

It is most convenient to cut rounded places using electric jigsaw. Next, smooth all the corners with a wide chisel and do a preliminary grinding of the product. It is not worth processing it completely to working condition, because with a direct connection to the metal part of the tool, when significant efforts and impacts are applied, the tree can split, and all work on final fine-tuning will be done in vain.

Mechanical grinding should be done on a flat surface. It is not effective to use an ordinary stone grinding disc. It is better to make a special disc, with the same hole in the center as the corresponding grindstone.

The material for the circle is best used from solid electrically insulating plastic, at least 5 mm thick. Sandpaper is glued on it with PVA glue. You should know that paper should only be used waterproof. A simple one will quickly break. In addition, a circle pasted over with waterproof sandpaper can be washed from wood dust deposits. hot water. Therefore, if such a circle is made of plywood, then washing it will be problematic. Plywood can warp when exposed to water.

On such a circle it will be convenient to grind even and convex parts of the ax handle, especially the part that is inserted inside the ax. This must be done very evenly so as not to weaken the thickness of the wooden part.

For grinding internal roundings, it is good to have a vertical grinding. Equipment for it can also be made independently. To do this, you need to turn a wooden cylinder on a lathe with a through inner hole corresponding to the shaft of the engine used, and glue it on the outside with waterproof sandpaper.

The finished cylinder should be tightly put on the shaft of a vertically mounted engine. For grinding the ax handle, the diameter of the cylinder is not so important, but the wall thickness from the inner hole to the outer surface should be quite massive, at least 10–15 mm.

Ax head

The upper edge of the ax handle, which should be inserted into the ax, is made slightly tapered so that it fits tightly enough. Before that, perpendicular axial lines are drawn on the end, so that in the process of work, focusing on their location, do not mow the workpiece in any direction.

Before the final planting of the ax, a wedge cut is made. Its depth should not exceed the width of the ax itself.

How to properly put an ax on an ax is shown in the figure:

It is permissible to make a wooden wedge from another, softer wood species, which is more susceptible to compression than birch. So that the wedge does not jump out of the ax handle even with the slightest drying out, it is advisable to lubricate it waterproof glue. This is necessary in case the ax falls into the water.

After the wooden one, you can additionally wedge it with a metal wedge. Such wedges are specially forged in the forge, making notches along its edges for better grip with the tree.

It happens that the upper hole of the ax is larger than the lower one, not only in thickness, but also in width. Small gaps remain on the side of the inserted ax handle, into which additional wooden wedges also have to be driven.

If the connection of the ax with the ax handle went well, they proceed to the final finishing of the tree with the help of finer-grained sandpaper. This process is done manually.

Making an ax by hand

With the seeming complexity of this process, it is quite within the power of a more or less master owner to make an ax handle without the use of electrified equipment. Especially if there are boards of the right size available. If there are no boards, then the blank on the ax handle can be pricked out of a birch log. A log for these purposes should be selected, if possible, without knots and with a straight-layer structure.

To grind an ax with a sandpaper, it must be fixed in a vise. From emery material cut into narrow rather long strips. It will be very convenient for them to carry out the grinding process by winding the strips around the ax handle and moving the ends of the tape back and forth. In this position working surface sandpaper fits snugly to the workpiece without special efforts from the side of man.

Working with purchased ax handles

If a person does not want to bother with making an ax handle on his own, there are always ready-made samples on sale. Of course, serious manufacturers of such parts are well aware of how to make an ax handle correctly. But still, when buying it, you should follow some rules so as not to make mistakes. First of all, you should very carefully measure the inlet of the existing ax. Differences in size for different axes are sometimes very significant and individual, especially if this tool was taken from grandfather's stocks. The main condition is that the dimensions of the acquired ax handle should not be less than the required values.

You should also pay attention to the quality of the wood of the finished ax handle. The density of the structure, the presence of cracks and the possibility of chipping during its installation.

Working with a purchased ax handle will be limited to fitting its end part, which directly enters the eye.

Sharpening and operation

Carpenter's axes require the most thorough sharpening. It's okay if the sharpness of these tools allows you to sharpen a pencil or even make a toothpick.

Before sharpening the cutting edge of the ax, it is necessary to check the hardness of the metal and, if it turns out to be too soft, it will be necessary to additionally harden the ax with high temperatures. It is best to do this in the forge, trusting a professional specialist.

The tool blade is sharpened after it is connected to a wooden handle.

Like an ax, the figure below explains.

Useful Instruction

Proper use of an ax can be described by following some basic rules:

Try not to cut metal products.
Carefully check the treated wood for the presence of foreign solid objects in its body.
Do not use the tool in a capacity that is not inherent to it: as a lever, chopper or shovel.
Do not drop the tool on a hard surface, especially from a great height.
Do not store it for a long time in an open place exposed to sunlight or in a very humid place.

With a careful attitude, the ax and its wooden handle will serve for a long time and please its owner.