Standard hydrangea: methods of cultivation and rules of care. How to grow a garden plant on a trunk - we consider two common methods

Standard plants are created thanks to proper formation trunk. The standard hydrangea looks quite extraordinary and spectacular: a perfectly even high trunk, bright inflorescences on a well-groomed crown.

You can buy a ready-made stem in the nursery. But it is quite possible to grow a standard form on your own, but for about three years you will have to carefully monitor the seedling so that later it will please with its splendor and decorativeness.

Features of growing standard hydrangia

To create a stamp good choice there will be hydrangea paniculata. To begin with, choose a plant with a pronounced stem. The rooted cuttings are planted separately and for the next three years they form an even and beautiful trunk.

For support, they take a metal or wooden stake and strengthen the plant in several places. The trunk support must be deepened into the ground. side shoots pinching in summer period twice, and next summer they are cut into a ring.

It is important to know: the stem may break off due to strong wind or snowfall. Therefore, it is better to plant hydrangeas near a wall, fence, or create a strong support for the plant.


This is necessary so that the main trunk thickens in diameter. Every year at the beginning of the growing season, the main shoot is shortened to the most developed bud. The crown begins to be laid when the stem reaches a height of 1–1.5 meters. Next, form the skeletal branches of the crown.

After eight years, a standard tree will be fully formed. The life expectancy of hydrangia is more than 40 years. With the help of pruning, a crown is quite easily formed in paniculate hydrangea. Under such a tree, you can plant undersized shrubs, perennial or annual herbaceous plants.

Hydrangea paniculata has a drawback - these are fragile young shoots. They can break from the severity of large inflorescences. Therefore, in the spring you need to cut up to 1-3 pairs of buds.

Vaccination as a way to obtain a standard form

The future crown is grafted onto the stock. The rootstock may be a plant of the same genus as the crown. Do such a procedure to give strength to the trunk of the bole. In the standard part, a split is made, where a cutting-graft with 3-4 live buds is grafted.

Slices are treated with garden pitch. The junction is covered with polyethylene. If the vaccination procedure was successful, then in a month the kidneys awaken.

The place of fusion of the stock and scion must be strong, without any constrictions or traces of the film. The stem should be straight, thick and strong. The support should be higher than the grafting site and slightly longer than the trunk. The trunk is tied up in several places.


When forming a crown, it is important to remove shoots that do not produce inflorescences and carry out thinning and sanitary pruning.

Note: pruning is key. It is from this procedure that the abundance of flowering, grooming and the shape of the crown depend.


AT landscape design Panicled hydrangea stems are used to create mixborders, Japanese-style gardens, as a single tree - in a Dutch-style garden.

Hydrangea is plentiful flowering plant, which can decorate any architectural building on garden plot, and if desired, you can even grow it in a tub on the balcony. Hydrangea is unpretentious plant but in need of some care.

From this video you will learn the secrets of how to grow hydrangea:

Nimfochka, Irina, weed everything carefully to the lawn. Everywhere they write that it is better to plant a lawn early autumn or already in August-September. They planted this way and that and concluded that it was not necessary to plant the lawn in early autumn, because at this time everything is activated, the growing season and weeds climb ahead of the lawn. Our lucky experience was, oddly enough, in June and August. They prepared the soil (as I already wrote above, they carefully cut everything before planting the lawn), leveled it, it is necessary that the earth be drowned, and before planting, loosen it with a rake so that the seeds linger in the grooves. The seeds were mixed with sand and sown thickly. Then everyone covered the special. fabric, it is very, very thin, like a cobweb, passes water well and prevents moisture from evaporating. When seeds germinate, they need to be watered frequently. It is good if you sow the seeds before precipitation. We guessed so often. Rains have a special energy of growth. How many times have I noticed that you water and water the plant, but it grows somehow, and when it rains, it starts to rage). But they also watered. Don't let the earth dry out. At good temperature and frequent watering seeds germinate in a week. Here we need to remove our fabric. And that's it, you will see a chic bristle lawn. Next care.
During the summer, water every other day in the evening or at night. We read that you can water the lawn in the morning until 10 am. Don't believe. The earth quickly dries out and the lawn does not have time to soak and turns yellow. That is, watering goes nowhere. We mow every week. This is also important. if you start and do not mow, then the lawn turns into green bumps and the carpet disappears. In the spring, the lawn grows faster and it happened that I had to mow twice a week. In summer, once is enough.
And the most interesting thing that we still do, every spring we thin out the roots of the lawn. Scientifically, this is called verticulation. Read about it on the Internet.
Everything in the complex gave us such a lawn) If you have any questions - ask) I will answer)

Saplings of fruit and berry crops Nursery My Tree

One of the best options for recreation, it is a walk and even work in your own garden. Flowers, trees and bushes that have been planted with my own hands and who have been carefully taken care of all the time - this is a great way to reconnect with nature and choose the best from it. A personal garden begins with a small one - with tree seedlings, thanks to which an adult plant grows.

Buy seedlings in Minsk you can in the online store, from the hands of private sellers and at gardening fairs. The purchase of future coniferous, deciduous, artisanal, fruit and berry trees in the store is profitable, because you are not only obliged to sell quality goods, but they can also advise the best technology planting, care and watering plants. Moreover, when buying in the online store, the seedling delivery service is connected, which is especially useful for bulk purchases. Buying plants "out of hand" is not always profitable, because there is a risk of falling for unscrupulous sellers who do not know what they are selling and how.

Find and Buy in Minsk quality seedlings exotic, common domestic plants are now easy. If you want to create your own "green corner", plant special varieties of berries or fruit trees- trust the professionals who select the best specimens among seedlings. The range of products will pleasantly surprise everyone, including not only fruit and berries, but also ornamental, shade-loving and other types of plants. Already looked after the required type? saw the new kind, which is not yet in the collection or which you have been looking for for a long time? Do you want to try something new and diversify the garden? We carry out profitable sales for the client low prices with high level service. Delivery of seedlings is carried out in a short time.

You can buy seedlings from us both with a closed root system and with an open one. At closed system there is the possibility of a longer stay in a pot or container (as a rule, such plants grow in them or germinate to right size). We offer quality plant seedlings various types own production.

HYDENSIA proper planting and care in the open field PHOTO

We describe the planting and care of hydrangeas in spring and autumn (tree-like, large-leaved (garden), paniculate and petiolate). Consider the place, soil, planting rules and step-by-step instructions, as well as watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter (Moscow region, North-West, Urals, Siberia and southern regions).

Planting hydrangeas in open ground: place, soil, distance and depth

  • 1 Planting hydrangeas in open ground: location, soil, distance and depth
    • 1.1 Step-by-step instruction planting hydrangeas
    • 1.2 When is the best time to plant hydrangeas? Spring or autumn?
    • 1.3 Hydrangea care after planting
  • 2 Caring for garden hydrangea: the secrets of growing
    • 2.1 Top dressing
    • 2.2 Watering hydrangeas
  • 3 Proper pruning hydrangeas: spring and autumn
    • 3.1 Group No. 1 (large-leaved hydrangea (garden), prickly, serrate, oak-leaved, Sargent and petiolate)
    • 3.2 Group No. 2 (tree and paniculate)
  • 4 Caring for hydrangeas in the fall and preparing for winter
    • 4.1 Preparing for winter and sheltering hydrangeas
  • 5 Diseases and pests
  • 6 Why does the hydrangea not bloom in the garden? What to do?
    • 6.1 How to change the color of hydrangea flowers?
  • 7 Helpful Hints hydrangea care

The plant is heat-loving, fast-growing and needs fertile soil and enough moisture.

We describe planting in open ground for any type of hydrangea: oak-leaved, large-leaved (garden), paniculate, serrate, tree-like, petiolate, Sargent and others.

Landing place

Hydrangea (all types) is a photophilous plant, it grows well in a sunny and open place, but bright sun and strong wind should be avoided. Therefore, at the peak of the heat, light shading is necessary, she loves diffused light very much.

At the same time, the shrub is able to grow well in light penumbra, in this case it blooms later with fewer flowers. The presence of sunlight in the morning, in the first half of the day is very important. Therefore, the east side is better suited than the west.

Soil and acidity

Hydrangea grows well on fertile, humus-rich clay soils. It develops worse on red soils, and sandy soils are contraindicated.

The optimum level of acidity is pH 5.2-6.0 (slightly acidic soil). The maximum brightness of inflorescences is observed precisely on acidic soil, and on the neutral slow development and pale color.

Alkaline soil leads to chlorosis (yellowing of leaves). When the bush grows on alkaline soil, there is often a lack of iron and magnesium, which is manifested by a light and pale color of the leaves.

Therefore, acidify the soil or treat the bush with an iron chelate. In past centuries, gardeners buried iron objects (nails, a can, a horseshoe).

When planting, a special balanced soil mixture with fertilizers is prepared.

soil mixture

Composition: humus, turf land, leaf land and peat - equal parts or humus, garden soil (chernozem), peat and sand - 2: 2: 1: 1. As well as nutrients: 20-25 grams (table + teaspoon) of carbamide (urea), 24-29 grams of potassium sulfate (two tablespoons) and 60-70 grams of superphosphate (150-250 grams of bone meal).

If spruces and pines grow nearby, then under them you can dig up light, loose and slightly acidic soil. Some gardeners successfully grow flowers in such soil, even without fertilizing when planting.

A complete ban - lime, chalk and wood ash.

landing distance

Large-leaved - 120-160 cm, and paniculate 140-240 cm between bushes, and from the nearest large shrubs and trees - 230-300 cm. If you want to plant hydrangea in a row ( hedge, "mixborder"), then you can dig a trench 90-110 cm wide.

If you want to get more early flowering, then when planting, dig holes closer to each other (70-80 cm), and after 2-3 years thin out the bushes if necessary.

landing pit

Depth - 36-45, width - 51-65 cm. The roots grow mainly in breadth, extending much further than the crown.

planting depth

The root neck should be at the level of the soil, a maximum of 2-3 cm below, otherwise the flower will develop poorly.

Step-by-step instructions for planting hydrangeas
  • Dig a hole of the desired size 15-30 days before planting.
  • Prepare the potting mix and backfill the planting hole.
  • Dig a hole and place the seedling on the cone of the soil mixture at the desired depth and straighten the roots. Gradually backfill the hole and compact the soil.
  • Water the bush with 8-12 liters of water and sprinkle with bark, sawdust or peat - 6-8 cm thick and 16-20 cm in diameter.
  • Cover the flower from direct sunlight during the day and strong winds.
  • When is the best time to plant hydrangea? Spring or autumn?

    Best time planting: spring - early May and autumn - September. At the same time, the most favorable period to plant hydrangea in a cold climate is only spring, and in more southern regions it can be planted in spring and autumn.

    Hydrangea care after planting

    Preparing for flowering

    For the first two years, cut off the inflorescences at the bud stage (“pea”). And then the plant will direct all its efforts to the development of the root system and the aerial part, which will ensure better flowering in subsequent years.

    • Watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter - see the relevant sections.

    Caring for garden hydrangea: the secrets of growing

    Flower care consists of watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter. Spring is the best time to mulch trunk circle for more moisture retention. Scatter sawdust, peat, needles or wood chips in a 7-8 cm layer, with a diameter of 24-30 cm.

    top dressing

    When planting hydrangeas in a soil mixture with fertilizers, you can not feed them for the first two years. General rule fertilizing until July acidic fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate), and from July to October potassium-phosphorus (bone meal, superphosphate).

    The plant's need for nutrients ah high as it grows quickly and blooms powerfully.

  • Comprehensive nutrition for growth. In the beginning - mid-May, feed with complex mineral fertilizer- 25-35 gr per 10 liters of water. Or separately a tablespoon (15 g) of urea + 25-30 g of superphosphate (2 tablespoons) and a tablespoon (15 g) of potassium sulfate.
    Mineral fertilizers can be supplemented with organic: infusion of mullein or bird droppings - 1:10. Repeat top dressing after 13-16 days.
  • Potassium-phosphorus top dressing for flowering. 12-16 days before flowering (beginning - mid-June), liquid top dressing is carried out: dissolve 65-75 g of superphosphate and 41-49 g of potassium sulfate in water and water the bush.
  • During flowering. Repeat the previous top dressing at the time of mass flowering to prolong it and ensure the laying of new flower buds.
    • Not recommended for feeding wood ash. Fertilizers are well suited for heather species and rhododendron.
    • Do not allow an excess of nitrogen, which leads to a decrease in winter hardiness, deterioration of flowering and promotes the development of rot. Apply only in April-May.
    • Important! An overabundance of fertilizers, especially organic ones (mullein, droppings) will do more harm than a lack.
    Watering hydrangeas

    The flower is moisture-loving and needs regular watering. Drought is contraindicated, the lack of sufficient moisture leads to impaired development.

    In dry and hot weather, water every 7-8 days with 15-20 liters of water. The usual schedule is every 13-16 days 15-25 liters of water, and if it is rainy in summer, then 4-5 times per season.

    The lack of moisture in autumn reduces the winter hardiness of the plant, so if there is little rain in autumn, then additional watering is required.

    Periodically add 2-3 grams of potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation to prevent the development of rot. Soft water is best for irrigation.

    Watering better in the morning or in the evening in the trunk circle, when there is no scorching sun. After each watering, it is desirable to loosen the soil 5-6 cm deep around the plant.

    Proper hydrangea pruning: spring and autumn

    All species tolerate pruning well and need it, but each has its own characteristics. Pruning in the spring can be carried out only from 3-4 years of age. The most common types of hydrangeas in Russian gardens are divided into two groups according to the type of pruning.

    Group No. 1 (large-leaved hydrangea (garden), prickly, serrate, oak-leaved, Sargent and petiolate)

    These species bloom on last year's shoots and need sanitary and cosmetic pruning. Optimal time pruning - as soon as the buds swell a little, there is no active movement of juices, plus such pruned shoots can be rooted. Let's talk about the example of garden hydrangea.

    Large-leaved hydrangea (macrophila) cannot be cut, but can only be rejuvenated. Every spring, cut every fourth branch older than 3 years, especially growing inward, so that the bush does not thicken, as well as dead, weak (thin) or broken stems under the root. Such pruning, in addition to giving more decorative form improves flowering.

    Spring pruning of garden hydrangea (large-leaved)

    Exception: modern varieties from the series "Forever and ever", "You & Me", as well as varieties "MiniPenny", which bloom on the shoot of the first and previous years. They are pruned depending on the condition of the plant and the past wintering.

    • Petiole hydrangea is lightly pruned: long stems are shortened for better branching.
    Group No. 2 (tree-like and paniculate)

    These species that bloom on young shoots (current season) are pruned every year before bud break. best moment: mid - end of March (as soon as the snow melted). Annual formative pruning is required, as if the flower thickens, the inflorescences will become smaller.

  • Hydrangea arborescens wakes up first. Shoots are cut to 2-3 buds from the ground. On a powerful and mature bush, sometimes only one pair of buds is left. To form a decorative shape of the bush, weak and inward-growing shoots are pruned.
  • Hydrangea paniculata needs more gentle pruning. Last year's shoots are shortened by a third.
  • Advice

    • To thin out the bush, completely remove old, weak and inward-growing shoots annually.
    • Cut frozen stems to the first living bud.

    Bush rejuvenation

    It is easy to rejuvenate an old bush with the help of special pruning: cut all shoots at a height of 5-7 cm from the ground level (“under the stump”) or to the level of perennial wood. next spring young shoots will begin to grow, and the decorative effect of the bush will be restored.

    Should I prune hydrangeas for the winter?

    In autumn, faded inflorescences are cut off from the hydrangea without fail so that the branches do not break under the weight of snow.

    stamp form

    Panicle hydrangea has the ability to grow in the form of a tree - a low stem. Choose one of the most developed shoots on a two-year-old plant grown from the apical cutting, and cut the rest. Then prune this shoot to the strongest bud each year in the spring until it reaches 100 cm in height.

    To form a crown in the following years, pinch the top of the shoot, and remove new shoots completely. In the future, weak shoots are pruned annually and only 4-5 strongest branches are left for bushiness.

    Example standard form hydrangea paniculata

    Hydrangea care in autumn and preparation for winter

    After flowering, autumn care for hydrangeas consists in removing faded inflorescences and preparing for winter.

    • Tree-like hydrangea for the winter can not be covered, mulching is enough - it has high winter hardiness.
    • In the conditions of the Middle Strip, the Moscow Region, the North-West, the Urals and Siberia, be sure to cover the hydrangea for the winter, and it is better to dig out the large-leaved hydrangea, transplant it into pots and bring it into the house.
      Because the this species can be grown in areas where the temperature in winter is not lower than -23.5 ° C. The exception is some modern winter-hardy varieties, mentioned in the section - "cropping".
    • In more southern and warmer regions, hilling and mulching can be dispensed with.
    Preparing for winter and sheltering hydrangeas

    Inflorescences appear on last year's shoots (large-leaved hydrangea), and the goal is to completely preserve them from frost and decay.

    Because leaves and flowers large-leaved hydrangea perish from small frosts at night, preparation for winter begins in the middle - end of October (after the first frosts).

    • Hydrangea garden paniculata and large-leaved must be covered for the winter.
  • To do this, a bush is spudded with earth, and the trunk circle is mulched with rotted manure, needles or peat.
  • Then the stems are bent to the soil and covered with sawdust, spruce branches or dry leaves. And on top of the bush put a box (box).
  • After graduation spring frosts(April) winter shelter dismantled and trimmed.
  • It is better to carefully tie a large bush and make a frame shelter (“hut”) above it by 8-12 cm and pour dry foliage inside it.
  • Preparing hydrangeas for winter Hydrangea shelter for the winter Upper layer winter shelter for hydrangeas

    For short-term frosts, it is convenient to cover with lutrasil, white burlap or double layer films.

    Shelter of a large-leaved hydrangea for the winter from a gardener from the Moscow region

  • In autumn, before the arrival of night frosts, cut off all the leaves from the bush. If you leave them, then the flower will begin to rot. Leave only the flower buds at the tips of the branches, with a maximum of two leaves protecting them.
  • Tie all the branches on the bush, 3-4 pieces of approximately the same size, into separate bundles with elastic material (elastic band, tights, strips of fabric).
  • Bend the bundles as low as possible to the soil and secure with metal staples (electrodes, thick wire). Bend the hydrangea to the ground carefully so as not to damage the shoots. In some varieties, they are very lignified and it is better to bend them down gradually, starting with a slight slope.
  • Before the onset of cold weather (mid-November), cover the hydrangea with any nonwoven fabric(burlap, agrofibre).
  • Before the offensive severe frosts, remove the shelter and cover the flower with dry peat, compost or leafy soil. The base of the bush is less afraid of frost than the fragile tips of the shoots, so it is sprinkled quite a bit.
  • Place arcs over the plant and stretch the covering material again, and put a piece of film on top so that the ends remain open and there is no high humidity inside the winter shelter.
  • Shelter for the winter of a young hydrangea

    Young seedlings are not pruned, but simply brought into the house in pots for the winter or spud with earth and additionally cover 11-16 cm for the winter with a layer of peat, dry foliage, needles or sawdust.

    When can I open hydrangea after winter?

    In the spring, you need to remove the winter shelter from the hydrangea in right time to prevent the shoots from drying out.

  • In mid-March, remove the film and covering material, rake the peat or earth and cover again with burlap.
  • In early April, when the night frosts end and stable heat sets in, remove the cover from the large-leaved hydrangea completely.
  • Approximate terms for the Moscow region are indicated.

    Winter hardiness of hydrangea

    Now large-leaved hydrangea is increasingly grown in conditions middle lane Russia and in the Moscow region, in the Urals and Siberia. However, not all winter-hardy varieties are able to bloom in any area due to different microclimates.

    The plant withstands up to -23 ° C, and the most winter-hardy are tree-like, paniculate and ground cover hydrangeas.

    The winter hardiness of the plant increases if it received enough water in the fall, as well as potassium-phosphorus top dressing.

    Diseases and pests

    Hydrangea is very resistant to diseases and pests, but sometimes everything affects it. powdery mildew, spider mite and aphids (often indoors).

  • HOW TO FIGHT POWDER DEW? INSTRUCTIONS, PRODUCTS AND FUNGICIDES.
  • HOW TO FIGHT APHIDS? FIGHT RULES AND THE BEST DRUGS!
  • Why is the hydrangea not blooming in the garden? What to do?

    We list the most common reasons for the lack of flowering.

  • Deficiency or excess of nutrients, especially nitrogen. With excessive feeding, especially organic fertilizers flowering is very difficult to achieve. Apply nitrogen only during the active growing season (April - May).
  • Improper pruning or winterization. The plant blooms on last year's shoots (upper buds). They often suffer from winter cold and are sometimes removed when over-pruned. If you have a large-leaved hydrangea, then read how to cut it correctly - the “Pruning” section.
  • Too much direct sunlight. Ambient light is ideal for hydrangea, but if it grows in a sunny place without shading in the midday heat, then flowering worsens and shortens.
  • How to speed up the flowering of hydrangeas?

    To make the bush bloom faster, spray it as soon as the inflorescences are 2-4 cm in diameter twice with an interval of 5-7 days with gibberellins - 50 mg / liter of water. This treatment allows you to bloom 2-4 weeks earlier and get more massive and decorative flowering.

    How to change the color of hydrangea flowers?

    The flowers of the plant can change their color depending on the acidity of the soil, and the ability to accumulate aluminum.

    Water the bush with a solution of potassium alum (100 g / 10 liters of water). To change the color, you need to carry out 3-4 waterings every 12-15 days. Therefore, they begin to water 50-70 days before flowering.

    After that, white or pink flowers(weakly alkaline soil) will turn blue or blue, depending on the concentration. At the same time, alum reduces acidity, so you need to carefully use them. The price of 100 grams of alum is about 30-50 rubles.

    • If you want to dry the hydrangea inflorescences for the winter, then cut them off immediately after the blooming of all the flowers. Tie in small bundles and hang down with flowers in a dark place to dry.
    • Hydrangea can be grown at home as a pot culture. In autumn, she sheds her leaves, for the winter she is cut off and transferred to cool place(+4-6), and in late February - early March they put it in a bright and warm place without direct sunlight. In summer, the flower can be taken out into the open air and left until September.
    • Experts advise planting ground cover species in the trunk circle: stonecrop, saxifrage moss and others.

    ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:

    1. REPRODUCTION OF GARDEN HYDROANGIA: ALL WAYS!

    2. TYPES AND BEST VARIETIES OF HYDENSIA WITH PHOTO AND NAMES!

    We wish flowers to cheer you up and make you a little happier!

    Hydrangea - beautiful plant characterized by a long flowering period. If you know how to form a bush, you can achieve even better results. Some varieties can even produce creepers. Distinctive feature flowers - this is an amazing variety of shades of flowers. In this article, the reader will learn how to grow a hydrangea on a trunk.

    Features of agricultural technology

    Plant this plant in autumn or in early spring. Moreover, if the grower lives in the northern regions of Russia, then it is preferable to plant him in the spring so that the plant can grow, take root and let root system. A place for planting a flower must be chosen in advance and prepare the soil in time. Plants like it to be acidic and well hydrated. The landing site should not be too shaded.

    For planting, a hole is formed, with a width, length and depth of about 30 cm. Fertilizers (organic and mineral), sand must be added to it. All this is mixed with turf. After the seedling is placed by hand in the hole, it is additionally covered with peat. The planted bush is watered and mulched (best with humus). The plant grows equally well in the light and in partial shade.

    Hydrangea

    For the winter, a plant growing in the northern regions of Russia must be removed to a cool room, where the temperature does not drop by less than 4ºС. This is due to the fact that the plant does not tolerate frost well. In the southern regions of the country, the plant tolerates winter better, and therefore it can be planted in the fall. You can grow it in open soil with shelter (spruce branches are suitable for this).

    On a note! To increase the acidity of the soil, special fertilizers are used (for example, Pokon). It can be prepared at home if you mix ammonium nitrate, potassium sulfate and superphosphate.

    Plant propagation

    There are several propagation options for this plant. Each of them gives good results, subject to the basic rules of agricultural technology.

    With the help of cuttings

    Hydrangea can be propagated using cuttings. The best time to harvest them is April-June. To do this, choose annual and bright shoots, no more than 12 cm long.

    Note! Cuttings need to be cut only at a right angle.

    Leaves are removed from its lower part. This part is treated with a growth stimulator. Then the stalk is planted in the soil in a greenhouse. Landing is carried out for the winter, the plant must be sheltered from frost.

    There is a method of winter cuttings. It is carried out only at large-leaved varieties hydrangeas. For this purpose, in October they dig mother plant. It is planted in a pot, placed in a room where the temperature does not exceed 2ºС. In the middle of winter, it is slowly raised to 10ºС.

    Hydrangea cuttings

    By February, last year's shoots are already ripening. Cuttings are cut from them. It is necessary to ensure that they have two internodes. Sections are treated with a growth stimulator and planted in nutrient soil.

    The division of the bush

    This plant can also be propagated by division. Hydrangea must be dug up and divided into several parts. Divide so that each part has a kidney, otherwise a new plant will not grow out of it.

    After dividing, each part is planted in a pre-prepared place.

    layering

    This method of reproduction is used if the shoots are more than one year old. They are carefully bent to the surface of the earth and dug in so that the tops remain on the surface of the earth, no more than 20 cm high.

    In the spring of next year, the shoot must be separated from the mother bush and transplanted according to the usual rules.

    Reproduction of hydrangea by layering

    standard hydrangea

    Paniculate, large-leaved and tree-like varieties of hydrangeas can be grown on a trunk. It is not necessary to deepen such seedlings at all. Hydrangea paniculata on a trunk looks very beautiful and impressive with a smooth trunk and bright inflorescences. To create a trunk, you need to carefully monitor the plant for about three years.

    The advantages of this growing method are:

    1. The hydrangea on the trunk is very attractive and decorative.
    2. The plant is winter resistant. Only in severe winters, young shoots should be covered with spruce branches.
    3. Standard forms of hydrangea are excellently grown in landscape design. With their help, gardens are formed in a unique Japanese style. It is with the help of stems that you can form beautiful and unique creepers.
    4. Such a hydrangea can be grown even on balconies in city apartments.

    To create a bole, panicled standard hydrangeas are best suited. To create a support, a wooden or metal stake is deepened into the ground. A plant is strengthened on it in several places. Lateral shoots are pinched 2 times throughout the summer. The next summer they are cut out.

    Note! The stem is best planted near a wall or fence so that it does not break off due to the wind.

    You need to cut the ring so that the trunk thickens all the time. At the beginning of the growing season, it is shortened. The laying of the crown begins when the main shoot grows to one and a half meters. Then skeletal branches are formed.

    Standard hydrangea as a tree is fully formed only in the eighth year. But all efforts during care are compensated by the life span of the plant - over 40 years. It is easy to form a crown with such a hydrangea. Sometimes shrubs and other undersized plants are planted under the tree.

    standard hydrangea

    To obtain a standard form, grafting is used. For this, a split is made in the standard part, where the cutting is grafted. It must contain at least three live kidneys.

    The most important moment in caring for a standard plant is pruning. Flowering, the shape of the crown and its grooming depend on it.

    plant care

    The basic rules for caring for hydrangeas are:

    • top dressing with mineral plants and fertilizers (they must be taken in moderation, since hydrangea does not like excessive amounts of fertilizer);
    • use slurry and humus;
    • water the flower regularly (moreover, it is necessary to ensure that the acid index of the water used for irrigation is about 5.6);
    • loosening the soil (this procedure makes it possible to retain moisture, this plant does not like overdrying).

    The rules for pruning a plant are as follows:

    • you need to cut the shoots at a time when the buds are already swollen;
    • the young shoot is cut to 4 buds;
    • if the bush is old, then it must be updated, cut off at the root;
    • in the first year of flowering, the flowers are removed: this will help to get very beautiful and abundant inflorescences the next year.

    Important! If you purposefully and constantly cut the bushes, then after 5 years you can achieve the stunning beauty of the tree.

    Hydrangea flowers may change color. For this, dyes are used. If at home a little potassium permanganate is added to the water for irrigation, the flowers will acquire a beautiful pink color.

    Sheltering the plant for the winter allows you to achieve earlier flowering.

    Hydrangea shelter

    Why hydrangea does not bloom

    Despite the fact that this is a relatively unpretentious plant, not all flower growers succeed in having beautiful flowers.

    The most common reasons for the absence of flowers on hydrangeas:

    1. Wrong fertilizer. If a large amount is applied to the soil nitrogen fertilizers, then they will contribute to a more intensive growth of foliage. To achieve flowering, potash and phosphate fertilizers must be applied. And for the winter you need to add fertilizers, which include phosphorus.
    2. Over pruning. If you cut off all the branches for the winter, then the next year the plant will definitely not bloom. You need to remove only old and dried branches from the bush.
    3. Incorrect shelter of the plant in cold winter leads to the fact that his kidneys freeze very much.
    4. Poor watering. The plant does not tolerate overdrying of the soil.
    5. Landing in a place where the sun's rays fall intensely. They can burn the buds and they will not bloom well.
    6. Buying a blooming specimen from the nursery in the store leads to the fact that it did not bloom the next year. It's because of drip irrigation and weak root system.

    hydrangea neighbors

    The best neighbors for this plant are those that have well-developed tubers. Boxwood, hostas, astilba are used.

    astilbe flower

    Hydrangea is not placed next to plants that have a poorly developed root system. They will inhibit flower growth. It is strictly forbidden to plant hydrangeas under trees. Such hydrangeas will suffer from dehydration and soon die.

    top dressing

    After two years, the plant needs to be fed. To stimulate growth, a solution of 25 g of carbamide, 35 g of potassium sulfate and 10 g of superphosphate is used. All this must be dissolved in 10 liters of water.

    During the budding period, 50 g of potassium sulfate and 80 g of superphosphate are added per 1 m2 of soil. In July, you need to pour 10 liters of mullein solution under each bush. The same is done in August.

    Growing standard hydrangea is quite laborious, especially for beginner gardeners. But the labor expended is worth it, because in a few years you can get a very beautiful flowering plant. You can plant a flower on any personal plot, then in a few years, beautiful and unique landscape compositions will please the eye.


    Hydrangea is a real decoration of our garden. But rarely does anyone have a charming standard tree in their garden. I always wanted to grow such a miracle with my own hands. The most unpretentious and winter-hardy varieties of hydrangeas are paniculate and tree-like. by the most in the best way tree-like hydrangea has proven itself. With minimal care, it grows, winters without shelter, blooms profusely every year. Beautiful inflorescences reach 30 cm in diameter, creamy white, pink-burgundy. Hydrangea paniculata reaches 2 meters in height. Blooms in July-September, inflorescences resemble lilac inflorescences. At the beginning of flowering they are white, and closer to autumn they acquire a pink-raspberry hue. Some varieties smell.



    We choose a seedling and plant it separately. For 3-4 years we have been paying increased attention to it - we are engaged in pinching and trimming the selected hydrangea.

    To nurture the stem of the selected plant, the main shoot goes from the base, which will be the stem. We pinch the remaining shoots in the summer 1-2 times. This method increases the diameter of the hydrangea trunk, so such branches are called thickening shoots. And when they fulfill their role, they are then cut into a ring in June. Every year, at the beginning of a new hydrangea growth, the "leader" shoot is shortened to a well-developed bud. At a height of 1-1.5 m, a crown of standard hydrangea is laid. To do this, the stem is cut off, and skeletal branches develop from several buds (4-5) located below the cut.

    The crown is formed the following year. For this leave
    on all obtained annual shoots of the plant, pr 2-5 pairs of eyes. Repeat this operation for the next 1-2 years, until the selected hydrangea seedling produces a "tree" with a strong bole and beautiful crown. After landing on permanent place branches should still be deleted regularly. It is necessary to follow not only