How to grow a standard gooseberry? How to give the gooseberry a standard shape.

20 years ago I met my colleague and friend Roman Vrublevsky. and he, in turn, introduced me and many other gardeners and nursery breeders to the outlandish horticultural crops of that time - standard currants and gooseberries.

It was truly a novelty! Most of us nursery growers, both large and small, had a standard set of seedlings, and Roman put up currant and gooseberry trees, in which the crown began at a height of 1 m.

The effect was evident.

People crowded, noisy, interested and bought! Roman had to go home for seedlings twice a day.

Standard trees

Some of the experienced colleagues immediately began to criticize the novelty, and someone, including me, became very interested in this matter.

Critics said:

"Why plant such trees, because they give a much lower yield than ordinary bushes, besides, the price for them is four times more?" Roman, in turn, told clients about the benefits: Such currant and gooseberry trees are not only useful, but also very decorative. Under them, you can grow something else, for example, strawberries or plant some flowers, and they yield slightly less - 90-70% of the yield from an ordinary bush. Besides, you don't have to bend down to get berries, and the kids will have to pull themselves up. "

And then I realized - both are right. The fact is that if your goal is a berry plantation, then standard currants or gooseberries will not be useful to you - ordinary bushes are needed here. However, if you are also worried about the aesthetic side of gardening, if you need a garden not only to satisfy your physical needs, but also to enjoy beauty, then standard forms will be simply irreplaceable.

Thus, we plant currants not in the back of the garden or vegetable garden, we do not hide it, but, on the contrary, we expose it - after all, it is really beautiful, and even delicious! A row of such plants along the path or a free-standing and fruitful tree in the middle of a flower garden will always delight the eye and soul.

But I must immediately clarify the question of what is standard currant a. The fact is that many gardeners think that standard trees of black, red, golden or gooseberry currants are such varieties. No. I will briefly tell you how we grow such plants.

Growing standard currants - grafting

At a height of 1 m, we plant any kind of currant or gooseberry on a long rooted shoot of the golden currant of the Brecht variety. We have queen cells for growing such rootstocks. The main advantage of this rootstock is that it practically does not produce root growth. Thus, the tree will always stand with one trunk.

At the beginning of his career, Roman was vaccinated on common golden currant, and she gave a lot of growth. Therefore, it was necessary to instruct gardeners in detail so that they did not forget to remove the growth, both root and from the stem. The new rootstock solved this problem completely.

However, if you do not have this stock, then you can inoculate any variety of golden currant. You just have to remove the root shoots in the first 2-3 years. Immediately I will make a reservation that the method of inoculation is only copulation (not budding!).

Of course, plentifully fruiting trees will require permanent supports. This can be a metal tube or a bamboo peg to help keep the tree upright. If the harvest is too large, which happens quite often, then in order to avoid a break on such a support, you can make a chatroom and use it to tie up too heavy branches.

My wish for nurseries to the waters: grow seedlings of standard currants and gooseberries - this is still a novelty in many regions. By the way, I will immediately share the idea: Roman grows rootstocks with a forked top and grafts each different kind... Thus, a two-sorted tree is obtained - for example, red and white currants or red and white gooseberries. It's even more interesting!

And I wish amateur gardeners to experiment - to acquire or plant and grow their own forms of standard, including two-varietal. By the way, we have not yet tried to plant on the same tree at the same time, for example, black currants and gooseberries. Experiment!

Our cottage

In addition, the bushes formed on the stems are easily ventilated and are less at risk of disease. And if the soil around the trunk is covered with an opaque mulching material (for example, roofing material, spunbond, black film), you can get rid of weeding. But is there negative sides this culture? Not without that.

First, the technology for the production of seedlings is complex and requires a lot of painstaking work. Therefore, they are grown a little and, of course, they are always more expensive than ordinary one-year-olds. The most common method of growing berry bushes on boles consists of the following steps. At first, regular standard seedlings are grown over several years to create vigorous plants. Then the entire aerial part is cut off from them. Of the mass of shoots that appeared after this, one, the strongest, is left. In the spring of next year, all buds are removed on this stem, except for 5-6 upper ones. From the shoots formed, skeletal branches of the future crown (bush) are laid.

Secondly, if ordinary gooseberry bushes in winter can be covered with snow, then the bushes on boles are above the snow cover in the most frosty zone. In this regard, a careful selection of varieties in relation to the specific conditions of the area is important. Our long-term tests in the conditions of the North-West of Russia showed that the varieties Smena, Russian yellow, Russian red, Seyanec Le-fora after severe winters did not have any damage after severe winters and bore fruit abundantly, and the one-year increments of the high-yielding Kolobok variety froze not only on boles made of golden currants, but also in the mother liquor on ordinary bushes.

Another method for the production of standard gooseberry seedlings is based on grafting the variety onto the stem of golden currant. Such seedlings were grown in Russia more than a century and a half ago. But gradually they forgot about him. The fact is that in the garden the rootstock itself forms a mass of overgrowth and it takes a lot of time and effort to systematically remove it. Currently, the culture of grafted gooseberries is reviving again thanks to breeders who have developed rootstock forms that do not give growth. This method has its positive and negative sides. Thus, the production period of grafted seedlings is reduced to 2 years in comparison with the first method, which requires 4 to 5 years.

The technological chain consists of the following links. In a special stock mother plant, annual growths up to one and a half meters high are grown, they are rooted and the variety is grafted into the upper part. However, some varieties show signs of insufficient compatibility. In addition, in gooseberries and golden currants, phenophases of development often do not coincide. This is reflected in the survival rate of the components of the vaccine. The varieties named above have also been found to be quite productive in the grafted culture.

It should be noted that the first method is used when growing standard red currants, and the second - roses on rose hips, Japanese quince on pear seedlings. The technique of planting seedlings is usual. A strong stake is driven into the bottom of the landing pit, which is better to use metal pipes or fittings. To align and give a vertical position, the trunks are tied to the stake in several places. In this case, not only the trunk, but also the bush is fixed on the support with the upper garter.

The formation of a bush consists in creating a compact crown by pruning and uniform distribution branches around the center (trunk). Annual growths are shortened, the growing shoots are directed to the sides, free from branches, tied to the part of the stake protruding above the bush.

Plant care is almost normal, typical of the gooseberry breed. Some amateur flower growers plant low-growing summer flowers or ground cover perennials next to the standard gooseberry (outside the mulching circle). Experience has shown that such a neighborhood does not harm any of them.

The lifespan of standard forms is short, less than 10-12 years, besides, the plants on the stem require constant care.

For more details see: http://www.nkj.ru/archive/articles/4061/ (Science and life, NOTE TO THE GARDENER. ABSTRACTS. FEBRUARY 2006 №2)

2 Council Source - http://vodospad.kiev.ua/

A standard gooseberry is obtained by grafting a valuable variety into a golden currant stem (recently - and yoshta; as a stem former, yoshta grows faster, does not give growth, but is less drought and frost-resistant). The stem is grown for 1-2 years from lignified (or green) cuttings, vertical cuttings or offspring that golden currants are capable of producing.

Lignified cuttings (20-22 cm long, with 5-6 buds) are cut in the fall (September - October 15), followed by planting, or at the end of winter, stored in a cold, moist substrate, until warm days.

Cuttings cut in winter before planting are kept in water for 5-6 days, after planting, they are covered with a film until the buds begin to bloom. Subsequently create optimal conditions for their good growth... Desired stem thickness 5-6 mm, height 100-120 cm.

Varieties with straight, strong shoots ( Neslukhovsky, Donetsk firstborn ) are grafted onto a bole at a height of 80-100 cm, and with arched ones (Krasny, Dates) - at a height of 130-150 cm. The latter look especially elegant, resembling a miniature weeping willow.

Vaccination is carried out different ways: in winter in a greenhouse, in spring and summer in open ground ... However, it is best to plant gooseberries. in early spring at a temperature of 10ºC when the plants enter the growing season. The optimal way- improved copulation.

The thickness of the scion cuttings should correspond to the thickness of the rootstock. The cuttings are harvested in winter and stored in the cold (you can also store them as Taranenko L.I. recommends for stone fruits in Dachnik # 2). The stalk is grafted from 3 buds, the cuts are made long, even, 4-5 longer than the thickness. Thorns are cut for ease of use.

After about a month, the harness is loosened, and later removed. The stock is tied to a peg, and the next year the scion is also tied up (for this purpose, it is convenient to use rubber strips from the bicycle chamber, tying it up with a "figure eight").

Vaccination can be performed in the summer (July - September) during the separation of the bark. Cuttings are taken from plants at the same time, fully ripe, removing leaves and thorns. Above the 3rd kidney, the lateral inoculation is shortened and performed according to all the rules.

On the trunk, the emerging shoots are systematically pinched. The remainder of the stock in August is cut off, and the place of the cut is covered with pitch. When the shoots on the scion reach a length of 10 cm, they are pinched to create a crown.

Grafting can also be done by budding with a peephole with a part of the wood in July-August.

The crown of the standard gooseberry is formed round or slightly hanging. The branches that have grown are cut by half annually for three years. In the future, the aged are cut out and thinned out. With proper care, plants can produce beautiful, tasty and large berries and bear fruit for up to 10 years.

In the Czech Republic and Hungary, standard gooseberries are grown on industrial plantations using winter grafting. Such plants are less susceptible to diseases, soil cultivation, pruning and harvesting are easier.

The berries on such trees are larger, better colored, sweeter. In Poland, it is grown in household plots, using budding, picking up for the stock best forms golden currant.

In the magazine "House, garden, vegetable garden" No. 3/93 agronomist Karabut S.А. a method of growing gooseberries on their own low stem is described. Its essence is as follows. Before planting, the strongest shoot is left on the seedling, the rest are removed.

The buds are also removed to a given height of the trunk (20-30 cm), 3-4 are left, the top is cut off. The next year, in the spring, the developed branches are shortened by half, by a lateral or apical bud.

A bush that has 4 skeletal, criss-crossing branches and 12-15 semi-skeletal branches is considered to be formed. In the future, in the summer (end of June), all growths of the current year are shortened to 4-5 leaves. Over the years, skeletal branches gradually rejuvenate by transferring to a well-developed semi-skeletal branch.

Planting and growing vegetables and fruits, caring for the garden, building and repairing a summer house - all with your own hands.

Growing gooseberries, currants and irgi on a stem

How to grow berry bushes (currants, gooseberries, etc.)

The idea of creating standard forms came to us from Europe, where the set of crops cultivated in this way is wider and considerable experience has been gained.

We will tell you about our experience, describing the technique of forming standard plants.

At the All-Russian Research Institute of Horticulture. I.V. Michurina, E.Yu. Koveshnikova is engaged in the creation and subsequent study of the behavior of gooseberries on a stem, the author of a number of excellent varieties of gooseberries, on currants, standard forms are studied by T.V. Zhidekhina, the author of a whole galaxy of varieties of this culture, on non-traditional crops, chokeberry and Irge, the standard forms are studied by N.V. Khromov. All these scientists are similar in one thing: they are sure that the future belongs to standard plants, first of all, of ornamental plantings.

There are two main ways by which you can get a plant on a trunk.

The first is forming into one trunk with the removal of all lateral shoots, and when the bole reaches the required height, a "bush" is formed at the top, pinching the shoots.

The second method is grafting on a stem former, which is usually used as a golden currant (ideal stock for currants and gooseberries) and mountain ash (chokeberry and irga are grafted onto it).

This method is less expensive in terms of physical labor, and the plants are more expressive.

What are the boons good for?

First of all, the plant looks very decorative, but not only. On the trunk, sweeter and tastier fruits ripen due to better lighting of the crown, even the plants get sick less - for the same reason.

Boards are used both in single and in group plantings. Whole ensembles can be formed with the interweaving of traditional plants, flower crops and standard forms.

Currants and gooseberries on a trunk

Any currant colors and the easiest way to turn gooseberries into a standard form is by grafting.

Golden currant is used as a stock. Most often, the stock is grown from seeds, already in the 3rd year the seedlings are ready for grafting. You can vaccinate both in winter (by carrying out this procedure on stocks dug out of the ground) and in early spring, during the first sap flow (in the open field). I prefer the second method more, and the survival rate in this case is higher.

The grafting is carried out by the method of improved copulation, leaving 3-4 buds on the graft of the scion.

Insulate the handle with plastic tape. Usually, after a few days, the kidneys wake up, and young growths appear, which are actively growing. It is important to remove the harness in time, in order to prevent constrictions, and install a peg-support, which will not allow the fragile stem to break from a gust of wind.

In the future, you need to follow the plant - remove the weeds in trunk circle and tidy up the crown, removing the shoots thickening it, as well as dried and diseased ones.

Aronia and Irga on the trunk.

These crops are good in that they do not require support at all, they do not need unsightly pegs, the stock (mountain ash), and therefore, the stem is very resistant to gusts of wind of almost any intensity. The only drawback of such plants is the formation of root shoots, and it will have to be removed annually. Rowan is used as a rootstock for both of these crops. The rootstocks are grown from seeds, and already in the 4th year they can be grafted. The grafting is carried out in early spring, during the period of active sap flow, using a cuttings using the method of improved copulation. The survival rate, as a rule, is close to 100%, and the growth activity is so high that you will receive the first fruits already in the year of vaccination!

As in the case of currants, it is important to remove the film in a timely manner, and when the shoots start to grow, it will be necessary to monitor the crown: in the irgi, for example, it thickens very quickly, which can lead to the transition of the crop to the periphery and its decrease, but chokeberry in this regard, it is more "calm", you can start thinning the crown in the fourth or fifth year from the start of shoot growth.

From the editor. In the southern regions, plants on boles grow quite successfully, but in middle lane and the more to the north you need to treat such a formation with caution. As you know, in winter, the coldest air is at the surface of the snow, and the graft can be just at this height.

For example, in the Moscow region in January, the average height of the cover is about 50 cm. It is desirable that the crown of the standard plant is not less than half a meter from the snow surface. Therefore, when vaccinating, place it at a height of 1-1.2 m from the ground. In other regions, the vaccination height may vary.

Somewhere plants may need shelter, somewhere - bending down for the winter. In a word, this method of shaping is still waiting for its test gardeners.

In the photo above, the standard forms of white currant, black currant, gooseberry and irgi

Currant on a trunk

We offer a new way of growing bushes of currants, gooseberries and others. Productivity increases due to better illumination of this type of bush, i.e. in one trunk, it turns out a column of solid berries, just beautiful!

I want to try in the form of a column, so that the berries hang from the bottom up to a height of 1.5 m - 2 m. I will definitely do it. By the way, you can drive not with one stem, but weave several stems in the form of a braid, as a result, I think, it will be even more beautiful and there will be more berries. God himself ordered the gooseberry to try to grow it like that, because these thorns are just tin, but it is probably better to form a gooseberry in the form of a tree. Like this:

Standard currant

In Europe, and in recent years in Russia, more and more often currants and gooseberries are grown not in bushes, but in standard form. And this, judging by the responses and some personal experience, gives significant advantages over traditional cultivation. They consist in facilitating the care of plants and harvesting from them, in enlarging and improving the quality of berries due to better illumination; besides, the berries acquire a kind of decorative effect. To achieve such a reconstruction of the berry garden is quite simple, and you don't even need to resort to laborious vaccinations.

You can form not only currants with a tree, but also gooseberries

Such a miracle - the tree looks very beautiful on the site near the house or along the paths when they are planted in the form of an alley.

Any variety of black, red and white currants can be grown as a tree.

Advantages of stumping bushes. Branches with berries will not adhere to the ground, which means they will hurt less.

The soil under the tree is easy to cultivate, you can even plant phytoncidal and pest repellent plants (garlic, leaf celery, coriander, geranium, marigolds, marigolds, etc.), while there will be no room for weeds.

It will also be much more convenient to pick berries. It is easier to protect such a plant from pests that hibernate in the soil; a trapping belt can be put on the stem.

Minuses. The plant will be tall and in winter it will not be completely covered with snow, which is somewhat risky for some regions; during spring return frosts and strong cold winds, such currants will be less protected.

It is also important: a currant tree will require constant timely care, pinching and cutting out branches.

And the cultivation of currants in the form of a tree begins like this.

1. In early August, plant a thick, bare summer shoot of the desired length and pinch its top.

2. In the second year, few branches grow in the upper part; in August, its tops also need to be pinched. All leaves and twigs that appear below the intended crown must be pinched off immediately in the same way as the shoots from the root.

3. In the third summer, the crown will already be quite thick. All its branches must be pinched, all branches growing below the crown and from the root, destroyed. In this third summer, the tree will already give a small harvest.

4. In the fourth summer, fruiting will be more abundant. Our bole will be formed, it will be thick, healthy with a glossy shine. And in the fourth summer, the shoots are pinched in the same way as in previous years. From this year, all black rough branches are cut out in the crown - these are old branches.

I must say that the life of such a currant tree is about 3-4 years longer than that of an ordinary currant bush, that is, it can last 15-18 years. It must be remembered that every year it is necessary to cut out shoots below the trunk, from the root and cut out old branches.

In addition to currants, such a tree can be made from gooseberries.

Standard gooseberry

Standard gooseberry cultivation, i.e. in the form of a tree with one main trunk, it is very easy to care for the plant, and in particular, watering and loosening the soil, as well as harvesting. At the same time, the berries become larger, and since all branches and fruits on the trunk are well lit and ventilated, the risk of plant disease with fungal and other diseases is significantly reduced.

How to form a standard gooseberry correctly? It all starts with the usual planting of a gooseberry bush in a bright, sunny place. In the first year, the bush can grow up to 4 branches, they grow empty until they need to be touched because the bush must form a powerful root system. Therefore, it needs to be fed and watered.

In the second year, we allow the bush to grow freely before harvesting (if it gives you berries in the second year), while young replacement shoots begin to appear at the base of the bush. Of these, you need to choose only one, the strongest and most powerful, and the rest should be removed while they are small and green. After harvesting, you must immediately cut out all last year's shoots at ground level, and only the replacement offspring you left should grow. It is he who will become the gooseberry trunk bole. With good feeding and watering, the stem of this shoot will grow up to 1-1.5 m. It must be tied to reliable support(peg, fittings, etc.).

The next year, a crop of large berries will form on this shoot, so let this trunk grow freely until harvest. During the season, all root shoots must be removed, and on the main stem-stem after harvesting, all lateral branches can be shortened, leaving only 1 bud each, of which lateral shoots will develop by autumn. Although it is possible to shorten the lateral branches only in autumn, leaving 5-6 buds on them.

For 3-4 years, a powerful root system is formed in the gooseberry, therefore, from spring, 1-2 replacement offspring are left to replace the aged main stem, which, after harvesting, is cut to the ground. In the future, do this annually. And if you ate a powerful gooseberry bush with a good root system, then it can be formed with 2 or even 3 trunks. Care comes down to cutting out all thickening branches at the base of the stem, and caring for 1-2-3 replacement offspring that have grown since spring, while all other green shoots must be constantly removed. All old branches after harvest should be cut to the ground. Fertilizing and watering the bush, as well as loosening and mulching the soil are required ...

To form a gooseberry stem on golden currants, it is necessary to graft the gooseberries on 1-2-year-old shoots of golden currants. This can be done by copulation or a saddle at the end of summer, when a gooseberry is grafted on a young shoot of golden currant, tied to a support (stake) to give rectilinear vertical growth. Gooseberries are grafted at a height of 40 to 100 cm or more, depending on the power of the stock (currant). As rootstock cuttings, mature annual shoots are used, from which the leaves are almost completely removed: only a part of the leaf plate is left on each cuttings. The strapping from the grafted stock is removed only in the fall ...

In the spring of next year, cut off the excess part of the rootstock over the established cuttings of the gooseberry scion. The shoots of golden currants on the trunk are all removed, and 3-5 shoots are left on the gooseberries to form the crown of the trunk. If the grafted stalk has formed one or two shoots, then in June they are pinched for the development of the crown ...

How to get a super-harvest of raspberries and currants?

How to get super-harvests of raspberries, currants, gooseberries, cherries?

An amateur gardener Mikhail Rudenko from Moscow has invented a method that allows to increase the yield of raspberries by 10 times and twice those of currants.
An increase in productivity is achieved in raspberry bushes in the second year, in currants in the third year.

“... To achieve a 10-fold yield of raspberries, on June 30 of each year, I pinch off the upper, sprouting bud of young shoots, which have risen to a height of at least 30 cm. After this procedure, by autumn, a future fruiting brush grows from each bud located at the base of the leaf new summer.
In spring-summer currant cuttings, the upper sprout bud is also pinched off, at the moment when it has reached 20 cm in height. The branches that have grown from this bud next spring should also be budged when they reach a length of 10 cm. At the end of the season, new shoots will grow from the buds at the base of these branches, which will be super-fruiting in the third year after the first operation.
In subsequent years, the bush should no longer be cut off, and the size of the currant berries increases after these procedures by 1.5 times.

How to increase the yield of currants

If on your site currants (white, red, black) bloom profusely, and then the ovaries crumble, then the reason may be poor pollination of flowers. To avoid this, you need to take 1 tablespoon of natural honey, dissolve in 1 liter of water and spray the bushes with this solution during their flowering. This attracts bees, which, accordingly, will ensure excellent pollination, which in turn will have an effect on increasing yields.
This method can be used for other plants as well.

It is possible to significantly improve the water-air regime in the soil, in order to obtain higher yields, in the following simple and cheap way.

Under a bush of currants or gooseberries, a hole is made obliquely a little deeper than the root system (with a hose with a pressure of water, a small-diameter drill or a crowbar), a piece of pipe (or an irrigation hose) is inserted into it. A container with water is fixed above the hose, which should continuously drip into it 1-2 liters per day, depending on the weather.
In this case, the yield can increase several times. So, the weight of a pumpkin grown by me in this way in 1999 exceeded 40 kg.

Is it possible to accelerate propagation of currants?

Can. Autumn when caring for bushes black currant it is necessary to select branches and cut cuttings from them with a length of 20 cm.They are planted to a depth of about 15 cm in the grooves of well-processed and fertilized sandy soil (about 80 cuttings per 1 running meter), sprinkle with earth, while only two buds are left on the surface. Then a frame is made of slats or perches. In the spring, as soon as the snow melts, the frame is covered in two layers of film. The cuttings are watered often enough. In early June, in the evening or in the afternoon in cloudy weather, cuttings are dug up. Those of them that have good roots are planted on a garden bed at a distance of 25 cm from one another. During the summer, weeding, loosening the soil and feeding (if possible with a liquid mullein) are carried out. When the growth of cuttings reaches 20 cm, a pinch is done to make the branches appear. In September, for better ripening of wood, pinching of the tops of all shoots is carried out. Planted in the fall to a permanent place, the next year they already bear fruit.

How to get two raspberry harvests a year?

This requires remontant varieties (September, Lyulin, Heritage), which have the ability to bear fruit on the tops of annual shoots. For a second harvest. on the raspberry tree of these varieties, it is necessary to form a horizontal trellis, that is, in the fall, bend the shoots that have grown during the season perpendicular to the axis of the row at a height of 30-40 cm from the soil surface. Next spring replacement shoots and offspring in a row are left to grow vertically. In this case, the first crop from two-year-old shoots on a horizontal trellis can be harvested in July, the second - in September from the tops of annual shoots.

How to get a triple crop of raspberries

If there is no harvest, you wave your hand in frustration and cut out the unfortunate bushes (in the fall). But next year the surviving shoots will give a super-harvest of berries!

In the raspberry bush, there are shoots of only two ages: divide the current year and last year's Raspberry into two equal parts, at least 2 meters apart from one another. On one part of the plantation, you will grow only fruiting shoots, and transplant the offspring (replacement shoots) to another area.

Planting raspberries can be nested or ordinary. The latter method is preferred, since plants acquire Better conditions food and lighting. But in both cases, the number of plants per running meter should not exceed ten. The garter of fruiting plants is of the utmost importance! In addition to a double-sided garter, you can strengthen the shoots to the third wire, stretched higher, directly between the stakes. This is done if not 10, but 12-13 shoots are left in a row on one meter. The buds of the redundant ones, on each meter of two or three shoots tied to the middle wire, we shake off the bottom (remove).

With this technique, we will prevent thickening of the lower part of the row and strengthen the branching of the upper part of the shoots, where there are better conditions for development. Do not be embarrassed by the fact that the tops of the shoots will hang 30-40 cm behind the wire. This is exactly what is needed: the sun's rays should not penetrate into the soil of the fruit row. The shade is also important as a means of suppressing weeds. But in order to prevent the growth of weeds at all, it is necessary 2-3 times a season between shoots to wrap the soil in such a layer (no more than 3 cm). From this, the soil will constantly be loose, moderately moist and saturated with carbon dioxide, which is valuable for plants. Only on loose soil do all the so-called "spare buds" of plants awaken. The control of pests and diseases is carried out in the usual timeframes and with the accepted chemicals. Feed the raspberries with slurry or organo-mineral solution. After the berries ripen, fruiting shoots finish their life cycle and dry out. Cut them out. On a plant-free, well-lit plantation, all soil nutrients will be channeled into the replacement shoots. And the replacement shoots-offspring grown on the other part of the raspberry tree stand already full of vitality, ready to give a harvest next year.

ADVANTAGES OF A NEWLY CREATED METHOD

1. The known method has the disadvantage that the replacement shoots, oppressed by fruiting shoots, do not reach the required power and are not able to produce many berries next year. And fruiting shoots, extremely constrained by root suckers - the latter take away a significant part of their nutrients and shade too much - are not able to give high yield good quality.

2. Freed from active young competitors, fruiting shoots turn into long branches with large berries. Moreover, the lower buds, usually shaded and unproductive, here form fruit branches of a meter in length with big amount berries. In the middle and upper parts of the shoot, the buds do not appear one at a time, as usual, but several fruiting branches, that is, all “sleeping” branches wake up in a normal situation.

3. New way cultivation of raspberries gives a high yield, almost threefold regardless of the raspberry variety. The productivity of harvesting labor sharply increases: the berry is large-fruited and there are no replacement shoots getting tangled underfoot. The enlightened and well-ventilated raspberry becomes resistant to diseases and pests, it is easy to care for it, it has a beautiful appearance.

Drive stakes 130-140 cm high along the edges of the raspberry tree. Attach a 120-150 cm long bar to them at a level of 90 cm from the ground. The wire stretched between the bars will serve as a support for unstable plant stems. Tie them with a wire, but no more than 20 cm from each other and with a herringbone: one shoot to the left, the other to the right wire. To prevent the wire from sagging, support it with 1-2 slingshots.

udachnyesovety.ru

How to plant currants on golden currants

A bush on a leg. Standard forms of plants

You can get a plant formed on a stem in two ways, the first is that a plant, be it currants, gooseberries, chokeberry or irga, remove all lateral shoots, leaving only a shoot, which is intended to remove the stem from it when it reaches desired height. Pinch its top and form a bush. The bush is formed due to the fact that lateral shoots appear from the axils of the leaves, the tops of which are also pinched, this procedure is carried out 2-3 times, until the crown branches out well enough.

The second way to obtain standard plants is grafting on a stem former, which is golden currant (when grafting currants and gooseberries) and mountain ash (when grafting chokeberry and irgi). This method is more interesting because it is less time consuming and the result is original trees. Such shrub-trees with legs have their advantages. Firstly, they are beautiful - such a tree can become the center of absolutely any composition in the garden. Secondly, the crown of such a plant is much better illuminated, which avoids many diseases.

Golden currant almost does not require leaving, easily breeds... It is very unpretentious frost-resistant berry plant, which tolerates drought well and gives a stable harvest every year. It is a shrub that bears fruit on its shoots. different ages and giving every year the growth of root growth. Sometimes it is also called the currant tree. Blossoms in April - May, bears fruit stretched from late June to August. Productivity 5 - 10 kg per bush. Berries are black, yellow or red, collected in small clusters of 4 - 8 pieces.

Where does this name come from?

And everything is simple, in the spring the bush is completely covered with brushes of bright lemon-yellow, golden flowers with a pleasant aroma. In autumn, its carved leaves take on a crimson color. So golden currants can also be a decoration of a garden, a summer cottage. If you decide to plant it on the border of the site, then do not forget that, without supervision, the bush actively captures the area around it and after a few years, with good humidity, it can stretch up to two and a half meters in diameter. But it's easy to deal with this, remove the one-year-old growth that makes its way to the sides, or put a thick layer of mulch or black film around. Since it can grow without leaving, it was therefore actively used when planting forest plantations (in the USSR), when strengthening soils on slopes. Sometimes it is planted as an avenue plant.

Propagate golden currants can be green and lignified cuttings, seeds during breeding work. Gives a lot of root growth, which is sown from mother plant... Reproduction by dividing the bush is also possible.

Golden currants are planted at a distance of 1.5 meters from each other or 1 meter by 2 meters. If used as a fence, then plant thicker. Like black currant, the bush is most often formed from 15 branches - 3 of each age, formed 5 years, cutting out all unnecessary annually. First of all, remove thickening, broken, overlapping shoots. And of course, cut out old ones from the fifth year. That is, after fruiting, cut out the 3 oldest ones, and leave the 3 strongest and best positioned ones from the one-year-olds.

If it is possible to plant several varieties, then this will only improve pollination, because this plant is cross-pollinated.

About watering. More than 10 years ago, there were interruptions in water all summer. It turned out that there was no rain, and the water supply system did not function. So there was only enough imported water for everyday life, but there was no irrigation. Deadline from May 5 to September 15. The currant withstood this waterless summer. Of course, the heat was terrible and almost all of the fruits crumbled, but the bushes survived. But the black and red currants disappeared, they could not withstand the steppe heat and drought. Therefore, now only golden currant grows in our area, successfully propagated from those surviving bushes. With watering it is now normal, therefore, the bushes are abundantly covered with berries up to 1.5 cm in diameter. Watering can be done both by sprinkling and along furrows. I place the sprayer in the center of the bush. I water it every 15 - 20 days. There is a bush that has grown from a seed. The berries are of a slightly different shape. Although a change in the shape and taste of berries is observed with vegetative propagation... The length of individual shoots is up to 2 - 2.5 meters. With a large number of berries, they bend their top towards the ground. Therefore, it is possible to include tying to a trellis, a support stand in the care. But so far it has not been observed that the shoots break under the weight of the berries. But sometimes I just pinch the growing shoots on golden currants so that they don't grow very long. We use them for brewing tea, it is also possible for breeding. Such a resistant plant will be just a godsend for summer residents, gardeners - truck farmers.

From golden currants, you can prepare the same blanks for the winter as from other types - jam, compotes, jelly, liqueurs and everything else. It contains pectin substances, organic acids, sugars up to 17%, ascorbic acid, carotene and other substances. It removes radionuclides from the body.

Also use golden currant for grafting... Yoshta, gooseberries, and other types of currants are grafted onto it. In this way, you can get standard crops, or you can graft several varieties of other types of currants on one plant, get very decorative trees. Imagine - black, yellow, red currants on one stem - isn't it beauty?

Of course, a stable golden currant plant is unpretentious in care, but if there is an opportunity to prepare the planting site, then you will get the maximum yield. It is better to prepare planting pits in spring for autumn planting and in the fall for spring. Fill them with fertilizers, and after planting the plants water abundantly.

Mulch is used not only on young plantings. After all, such a layer of straw, sawdust, shavings not only retains moisture, but also protects against overheating, when rotting serves as a fertilizer, protects against winter freezing, drowns out the growth of weeds. The soil under the bushes is not compacted and the number of weeding and loosening is reduced. So the care for golden currants will be minimal, the resistance of the plant is guaranteed. And she can reproduce herself, giving a mass of root growth.

How to grow standard currants

Cons of standard growing

Naturally, each method of growing berry bushes has its drawbacks:

since the plants will be adults, then in winter the snow will not completely cover them, which is very dangerous for certain regions,

Grow by standard method can be both red currants and white and black.

By the way, the same can be said about gooseberries, and many use this method even in relation to roses.

Currant tree instead of a bush

Remove any shoots and foliage below the length you set.

3. In the third year, you will notice a fairly dense crown. At this time, you will need to pinch the top of each branch, and also, like last year, destroy all root growth and shoots below the specified length. By the way, this summer your tree will delight you with its first minor harvest.

So that currants or gooseberries grow in a standard form, like small tree, came up with an easy way. When planting a plant, one of the strongest vertically growing shoot is chosen from a seedling, the rest are cut out directly from the ground. From the left shoot, all branches are removed to the intended height of the trunk, a tube made of polyethylene or other material that does not transmit light is put on it. The lower end of the tube is buried 10 cm into the soil, and the upper end is raised above the soil to the desired stem height. These plants can be planted much closer together than regular shrubs.

The trees must be tied to a support (pegs or trellis), this is necessary so that they do not break with strong growth or under the influence of wind and fruit loads. If you do not use a light-transmitting tube, then remove all lateral branches to the intended height of the trunk, which is usually 60-100 cm. In subsequent years, 4-5 branches are left and the entire crown is formed. They remove thickening shoots, as well as branches growing down, damaged and older than 7-8 years. Every year, shoots appear at the base of the bush, which must be removed immediately, preventing them from growing.

For better decorativeness, it is advisable to form both the standard currant and the standard gooseberry with a spherical or spherical crown.

Pros of the standard form of currants and gooseberries:

Photo from prodejstromku.cz

Currants and gooseberries

There are two main ways to grow a standard gooseberry: by forming a stem from a gooseberry plant, or by grafting the gooseberry onto a golden currant stem (stem) with the further formation of a tree - a standard gooseberry.

To form a gooseberry stem on golden currants, it is necessary to graft the gooseberries on 1-2-year-old shoots of golden currants. This can be done by copulation or a saddle at the end of summer, when a gooseberry is grafted on a young shoot of golden currant, tied to a support (stake) to give rectilinear vertical growth. Gooseberries are grafted at a height of 40 to 100 cm or more, depending on the power of the stock (currant). As rootstock cuttings, mature annual shoots are used, from which leaves are almost completely removed: only a part of the leaf plate is left on each cuttings. The strapping from the grafted stock is removed only in the fall.

Berry bushes on a trunk

This method of growing berries has long been widely used in Western Europe, and in our country only individual amateur gardeners began to use it in recent decades, although in pre-revolutionary times in Russia it was well known.

With the growth of gooseberry, red and black currant bushes, their branches often fall on the ground, which makes it difficult to cultivate the soil and control weeds, the berries become contaminated, ripen later, and harvesting is complicated. To raise the drooping branches, they use various techniques - they install stands under the branches, a stake is driven into the center of the bush, to which they are tied, etc. At the same time, there is another, fundamentally different way, in which the branches will not creep along the ground. Its essence is that berry bushes are grown in standard and half-stem forms in the form of a small tree. The height of the stem is 60-110 cm, the half-stem is 40-60 cm. The stem form is convenient in a small area. A small tree is easier to care for than a bush, and it is easier to feed. The crown is better ventilated and illuminated, it is convenient to trim it regularly. The bush is damaged less fungal diseases, the berries are larger, brighter, tastier, they do not touch the ground and do not get dirty. Collecting berries from such a tree is a pleasure: no bends or strains. And one more trump card: standard berry plants are very decorative, they will decorate any area and will charm you at first sight.

They are placed singly, but it is possible in rows along paths or hedges. Research carried out in foreign countries, have shown that growing gooseberries and red currants in the standard form is more economically profitable than in the usual bush form. The additional care costs are paid off by the increased yield and its high quality. There is information about the successful cultivation of standard gooseberries and currants in the south.

In the middle lane, despite the sufficient winter hardiness of standard plants, it is better to place them in protected areas of the garden. It is a good idea to provide for the use of the simplest shelters for the winter.

It is worth testing and bending such plants to the ground. late autumn, as is practiced for standard roses.

WITH A LOOK AT WINTER

It is known that in winter period the most low temperatures are in the snowy layer of air. Therefore, the crown of the tree should be at least 0.5 m from the surface of the snow cover, which usually reaches an average height of 0.5 m in January-February. Gardeners take this circumstance into account, creating for low-winter varieties fruit crops winter-hardy stem formers. At the same time, a cuttings of the desired variety are grafted onto the stem former into a conductor at a height of 1-1.2 m from the ground, which allows the crown of a low-winter variety to be brought into a zone of a more favorable microclimate. Similar conditions develop in winter and when the crown of standard berries is brought to a height of 1 m.

However, despite all the arguments in favor of a standard berry tree, it is necessary to check the unusual method of formation, and amateur gardeners, especially from among enthusiasts, still have to say their word. At first, to master the novelty, it is enough to practice on 1-2 bushes. In any case, you should always have an insurance fund made of ordinary bushes that hibernate under the snow!

Gooseberry on stems

In the standard form, gooseberries are grown by grafting or on their own roots. Golden currants or gooseberry seedlings are used as a stock. Golden currant stocks are grown for 1-2 years from rooted cuttings or cuttings. If the currants are propagated by spring sowing of seeds, they are preliminarily stratified within 2-4 months in the refrigerator.

The grown rootstocks are planted at the end of September - the second decade of October, but this can be done in the spring. Plants are placed in a row every 1 m, between rows - 1.5-2 m. Plants are planted 5-8 cm deeper than they grew before. After planting, watered abundantly, mulched with peat or humus. After planting a seedling of golden currant from 2-3 branches, one is left - the strongest and most erect. The abandoned branch by the fall should slightly exceed the intended height of the trunk. The lateral shoots that appear on it in the summer are pinched, which contributes to the thickening of the stem.

You can plant gooseberries in summer, winter or spring. In summer - in the third decade of July or early August by the method of lateral grafting for the bark. From harvested well-ripened shoots, thorns and leaves are removed with pruning shears, leaving shortened petioles. A stalk with 3-5 buds with a lower oblique cut 3-4 cm long is inserted into a T-shaped incision in the rootstock bark. For winter grafting, rootstocks are dug up in the fall and stored in the basement in boxes with wet peat, sawdust or sand at temperatures close to 0 ° C. Since autumn, gooseberry cuttings are harvested and stored under the same conditions. Winter vaccination is carried out in late February - early March indoors, sitting at a table. With the same thickness, the scion and rootstock are grafted with improved copulation or butt with a tongue. The grafted components for fusion are placed in boxes filled with a mixture of sand and peat (1: 1), and kept at a temperature of 18-200 for two weeks. After that, the boxes are again transferred to the cold basement, where they are stored until planting. With the beginning planting works the grafted seedlings are planted in a permanent place with a distance of 1 m between them. A stake is driven into the planting hole, which is used to tie the plants. In the spring, the vaccination is carried out at the beginning of sap flow (approximately in the first decade of May). The methods of inoculation are more varied: improved copulation, in the split, in the butt, in the side cut. You can graft several varieties of gooseberries with different colors to one stock - you will get a particularly original and elegant plant.

Get a beautiful spherical crown will help correct pruning... By the end of the first or second year after planting, 4-6 main branches are laid: one is the central one, the rest are evenly spaced in a circle. The central branch is shortened minimally (by 1 / 4-1 / 8 of the annual growth), the rest are shortened slightly more, trying to give the crown a rounded shape. In subsequent years, 4 lateral branches are left on each branch, which are shortened every year when they reach a length of about 20 cm. Sick, drooping and crossing branches are removed. By the age of 4-5 years, the crown reaches the shape you have planned.

Standard gooseberries at the age of 7-8 and even 10 years give good yields, but as the branches age and freeze, they have to be replaced with younger ones. When pruning, it is necessary to ensure that the crown retains its rounded shape and attractiveness. Many side shoots appear on the trunk, which should be systematically removed.

The stock gooseberry must be tied to the stake, which is installed when planting a seedling. The stake is cleaned of bark, painted or coated with impregnation, especially in that part of it, which is in the ground, to reduce rotting. The tree will need support throughout its life. The "figure eight" garter is made in two places - in the middle of the bole and in the crown.

Sometimes, with a large harvest, the support is strengthened, another 1-2 stakes are put. If the standard gooseberry is planted in a row, a wire trellis installed along the row is sometimes used as a support. Any variety can be grown in the standard form, but the main condition should be high winter hardiness of branches and flower buds. Large-fruited European varieties with more durable branches and fruit formations (Warsaw, Date, Triumphal bean, Brazilian, English yellow, Shanon) look better in this formation.

ON OWN ROOTS

When growing a standard gooseberry without grafting (on its own roots), one, the most powerful, upright one-year shoot is left in a first-class seedling planted in a permanent place, the rest are cut out at the soil surface. When landing in a landing hole, a stake is immediately hammered the desired height and the shoot left after pruning is tied to it. The next year, all lateral branches are removed on it to a height of 60-110 cm, and 4-6 shoots are left at the very top. In the future, 4 lateral branches are preserved on each left shoot. A rounded crown is formed in the same way as in grafted plants.

CURRANT CHANGES SHAPE

Red currants are more often black currants used to form plants in standard form. This is facilitated by the upright growth and strength of the branches, the durability of the bushes, which live and bear fruit for 5-7 years. She can also have standard and semi-standard forms; in the first case, the stem height is 60-110 cm, in the second - 40-60 cm. Such plants are obtained using grafts on golden currants, or they form standard forms from ordinary seedlings, as mentioned above, for gooseberry plants. Another interesting way is to put on a "case" - an opaque polyethylene tube with a diameter of about 3 cm on a single-stem seedling before planting, so as not to remove the buds on the stem, its upper end will show the height of the stem of an adult plant. When planting a plant in a permanent place, the tube is buried 8-10 cm into the soil. Black currants can also be grown in a standard form. Moreover, when planting, annual seedlings grown from single-bud cuttings are more convenient, because with further growth, the bush does not form zero shoots. After 5 years, the thickness of the trunk reaches 4-5 cm, the skeletal branches begin to age, and they are gradually cut out, leaving one or two buds, due to which the crown is renewed by branches again.

In recent years, trellis is practiced abroad for black currants. Select a well-lit area with fertile soil... If there are several trellises, a distance of 1.8-2 m is given between them. ... 2-3 rows of galvanized wire 3-4 mm thick or synthetic twine are pulled between the posts. Seedlings of low-growing varieties are planted along a row of trellises every 60 cm, vigorous ones - after 1 m. After planting, the plants are cut short as usual, leaving hemp up to 5 cm with 2-3 well-developed buds. The next year, out of all the shoots, 3-4 of the strongest are chosen, they are shortened, the rest are cut out.

The shoots left behind are tied to a wire. As the bushes age, 5-year-old branches are cut out, and the same number of zero shoots are left to replace them. Trellis cultivation of black currant provides an annual and plentiful harvest of high quality berries. Collecting them is greatly facilitated. Red currants and gooseberries are also successfully grown on the trellis.

candidate of agricultural sciences

This method of growing currants has quite significant advantages over the traditional cultivation of berry bushes:

Pros of growing currants on a trunk

If you also want to acquire such a tree, then this is not so difficult to do, since you will not have to resort to any vaccinations.

This miracle will give your site an exotic look, if you plant it, for example, along a path. Isn't it a kind of alley?

Believe me, you will not do without the curious glances of your neighbors.

1. In early August, plant a thick, bare summer shoot in a permanent location and pinch the top.

2. Next year, when shoots appear at the tip, again in August, pinch each of the new branches.

The same applies to the basal processes.

4. The fourth summer will bring significant fruiting. The stamp has already been formed by that time, but the pinching will need to be done in exactly the same way as last year, and besides, all the black and aged branches must be cut out. Similar events await you in the coming years.

4. It should be noted that the standard currant lives for about four years more than the currant bush familiar to everyone, which means that the tree will delight you with its large fruits for almost two decades.

The advantages of golden currant a great many - heat resistance, withstands drought, winters well, is not affected by diseases and pests, unpretentious to the soil (it grows even on saline and calcareous soils), the plant is resistant to temperature extremes - that is why it does not require maintenance. I have been growing for more than 15 years in one place and has not been damaged by anything yet. Mass was obtained from two bushes planting material... Bushes are now growing in different places- there are both in open places and in partial shade, it grows even near plums and cherries outside the garden on the border of the site. And everywhere it bears fruit every year. They never sprayed them with anything, and they didn't add much fertilizer. Sometimes (not every year) we throw a handful of complete mineral fertilizers and then not under all the bushes, but only those that are close.

When setting up a large plantation. In the fall, the place is plowed deeply. Introduce organic matter and mineral fertilizers... In the spring, dig or drill planting holes. Place the seedlings in them.

Pruning planted golden currants is done in the same way as black - leaving 2-3 developed buds on each shoot.

Of course, in the first year after planting, a young plant needs watering every week in order to strengthen the root system, was good survival rate... To preserve moisture, mulch the soil around the golden currant. Then the water consumption will be reduced.

How to make trees from currants and gooseberries? Pros and cons of the standard form

A standard gooseberry can be obtained not only by growing it from a self-rooted seedling, but also by grafting on a golden currant. If the gardener owns the techniques of grafting berries, a good result can be achieved by lateral grafting under the bark, which can be carried out with a cuttings with an oblique cut, a stock with a T-shaped cut in the bark, and combining the stock and scion with the strapping of the grafting film. When it is possible to plant several varieties of gooseberries with different colors of berries on the stock at once, the tree becomes especially beautiful.

Currants and gooseberries in standard form are suitable for small gardens, as the plant takes up less space... Easier maintenance and harvesting. Better illumination improves the quality and size of the berries. More plants can be grown in the same area and a higher yield can be obtained. The method is often used for decorative purposes.

There are restrictions this method by climate. Research by the Siberian Research Institute of Horticulture has shown that they are most reliably protected from frost and freeze less, which means that squat bushes well covered with snow bear fruit better than tall bushes or trees of these crops. In experiments, the yield of red currants without snow cover decreased by 40-50%, black - by 40-80%, gooseberries - even more. These figures are given on average over 20 years. In cold climates, currant and gooseberry trees must be covered or bent down for the winter to be covered with snow, choose frost-resistant varieties.

The growth of the underground part of currant bushes in good conditions can last up to 30-40 years, in gooseberries even longer. At the same time, the maximum age of aerial shoots is much less: in black currant, skeletal branches can live for 6-10 years (with a maximum fruiting for 4-5 years), in red and white currants - up to 7-12 years (with a maximum fruiting for 5-7 year), in golden currants - up to 12-18 years (with a maximum fruiting for 6-8 years). With a natural bushy form of growth, dying skeletal branches are constantly renewed by new shoots growing from the base of the bush every year, and thus the plant greatly extends its life span. When growing in a standard form as a tree, due to the constant removal of new basal shoots, the life of the tree will be limited by the above terms. The standard form of gooseberry with grafting on golden currant is advisable. A gooseberry culture in this form is very convenient for picking berries. In addition, due to the relative durability of the golden currant stem and the grafted gooseberry skeletal branches, such gooseberry trees are also relatively more durable.

So think for yourself, decide for yourself whether to have or not to have. on your site standard gooseberries and currants ??

The fashion for standard forms of currants and gooseberries, and after it and most other horticultural crops, came to us from Europe, where gardeners tired of the monotony, and simply the owners of their plots, are trying to surprise their neighbors and guests with something.

The use of standard forms of fruit shrubs in our summer cottages is not only possible, it is simply necessary: these plants are a decoration of the garden, facilitate the collection of fruits, give aesthetic pleasure when contemplating them, allow you to transform a dull area into a kind of special and very interesting world, in which familiar plants appear in a new form for us.

The stem is a part of the tree trunk from the root collar to the first skeletal branch located in the lower tier of the crown. In terms of height and purpose, all booms are divided into high-stem, semi-stem, low-stem, bushy and creeping.

The transformation of an ordinary currant and gooseberry plant into a standard plant can be easily accomplished by grafting. It is carried out in early spring during the period of active sap flow on the scion and rootstock, the presence of which is easy to check, it is enough to make an oblique cut and hold it with a dry finger, if you feel moisture on the skin, this is a signal - it's time to inoculate. You should not rush too much with the vaccine. Excessive moisture, return cold, insufficient plant activity - all this can lead to the fact that both plants (both the scion and rootstock) will die. As a rootstock (the plant that will be grafted onto) for both gooseberries and currants, golden currants are ideal. Grafting on it is carried out with a handle using the improved copulation method (with a tongue), wrapping the places of the cuts with plastic wrap. Further care for "postoperative" plants consists in watering, fertilizing with complex fertilizers and removing wild growth on the trunk. In the fall, when it is clear that the graft has worked out, new shoots will be observed in the scion, the film is carefully removed, it is better to do this by cutting off the knot with a sharp budding knife, trying not to damage the shoot. It is imperative to remove the film, because if this is not done, constrictions can form, since the film will prevent the natural thickening of the trunk, and in this place, most likely, there will be a break, which will lead to the death of the scion.

Immediately after the film is removed, you need to protect the new plant from gusts of wind, since, alas, standard forms of currants and gooseberries cannot grow without supports - even an average gust of wind breaks them, therefore, the establishment of supports is a must. Either wooden pegs or metal rods can be used as support. Both, of course, spoil the picture of natural beauty, but by giving the supports a somewhat sophisticated look - by painting a metal rod, or by cutting out a kind of dry shoot from a wooden peg, you can smooth out the forced interference with nature.

(red and black) are short shrubs. The average height of these berry bushes is 1-1.2 m, rarely reaching 1.5 m. Therefore, you have to bend low when harvesting from gooseberry and currant bushes.
In addition, the berries on the lower branches are often dirty with dirty splashes that fall on them during heavy rain or watering.
It is also very inconvenient to remove such low bushes around. And in gooseberries, weeding is aggravated by the fact that its branches are thorny.

In recent years, the cultivation of currants and gooseberries in the form of a standard tree has become very popular.

Advantages of golden currants

Gooseberries, red and black currants are too low-growing crops to be obtained from them by means of formative pruning a sufficiently tall and beautiful tree. Therefore, to create a vigorous and thick trunk, a different type of currant is used. This is a golden currant; or, as it is also called, crandal.

Golden currant is a relatively large shrub, reaching a height of 3-4 m. It is much superior in growth strength to bushes of black and red currants, gooseberries.
Root system in golden currants it is powerful, reaching a depth of 2 meters.

Golden currant has great advantages:
- high drought resistance and heat resistance;
- resistance to almost everyone, which often affects gooseberries, as well as black and red currants.

Creation of a stock-rootstock of golden currant

To create a currant or gooseberry tree, first of all, it is necessary to grow a powerful stem stock. For this purpose, in the spring, rooted cuttings or layering of golden currants are planted (preferably immediately in a permanent place).

During the summer, growing cuttings of golden currant are intensively looked after, forming plants into one trunk. Feeding is regularly done and the emerging root shoots, as well as excess shoots in the lower part of the trunk, are removed.

As a result caring care by autumn, the height of a young plant usually reaches 1.5 meters. If it is not possible to get such a height, then the golden currants are grown for another year.

Cutting and storing currant and gooseberry cuttings

Cuttings of gooseberries, black and red currants for grafting on a bole of golden currants are prepared at the beginning of winter.

For cutting high-quality cuttings, take well-developed annual shoots of currants and gooseberries. It is desirable that the loose core take up as little space as possible.

The harvested cuttings of currants and gooseberries are stored buried in the snow until spring. And with the onset of warm days, the cuttings are taken out of the melting snow, wrapped in plastic wrap and placed for further storage in a home refrigerator (preferably under a freezer).
Important: up to the moment of inoculation, the buds of the cuttings should be in a dormant state.

Spring grafting of currant and gooseberry cuttings on a crandal stem

The spring grafting of successfully preserved cuttings of gooseberries, black and red currants is started when buds begin to bloom on the prepared stem of golden currants.

Grafting of overwintered cuttings of currants and gooseberries on a bole of golden currants is usually carried out at a height of 1.0-1.2 m.
If desired, if a taller and thicker golden currant stem is available, the inoculation height can be increased to 2 meters.

Using the improved copulation method (or for the bark), a gooseberry or black / red currant stalk with 2-3 buds is grafted onto a golden currant stem.
The vaccination site is tightly wrapped with plastic tape.

To protect the cutting from drying out, it is advisable to put on a combined cap on top, consisting of two superimposed equal-sized squares of paper and plastic film (the size of a handkerchief; upper layer- from paper, bottom - from film). The lower part of the tube is tied to the stock below the grafting site, and the upper part is clamped with twine. Periodically, the twine in the upper part is untied and they look inside the tube: has the stalk started to grow?
As soon as the buds bloom on the handle, the cap is removed.

You can also inoculate with a sprouting eye (better with butt). In this case, no protective caps are needed.

Winter grafting of currant and gooseberry cuttings on a crandal stem

Good results are obtained by winter grafting of currant and gooseberry cuttings on a golden currant stem.
To do this, in the fall, powerful bushes of golden currants, formed into one trunk, are planted in large pots or buckets and placed in the basement for the winter.

At the end of February, pots with overwintered boles of golden currant are brought into a greenhouse or a warm veranda. After a few days, you can inoculate the saved cuttings of gooseberries and currants on them.

The grafted plants are well looked after, periodically sprayed with water from a spray bottle.
As a rule, in the room, in the absence of drying winds, the survival rate of grafts is much better than in the garden.

Pots with grafted golden currants are dropped in the garden for the summer. Developing plants are regularly watered and fed.
In autumn, along with a lump of earth, the grafted seedlings are planted in a permanent place.

Caring for grafted standard plants consists in the regular removal of the overgrowth of golden currant, emerging from the root and along the stem.
To prevent overgrowth from forming on the golden currant stem, you can put on a narrow cover made of special film(black with white underside).

In the photo: standard currants and gooseberries

Standard currants and gooseberries in garden design

Standard currants and gooseberries look very impressive in the garden, especially against the background of the lawn or the wall of the house.

These curly trees look incredible at the time of abundant flowering.
They are no less beautiful during fruiting, when their crown is strewn with clusters of black or bright berries.

It is very convenient to pick berries from such miniature trees, since you no longer need to bend low.

You can form a whole alley of these amazing berry trees. For example, place such an alley along garden path leading from the front gate to the house. Create such original standard berry plants that are able not only to give a lot of joy throughout the garden season, but also to give generous harvests - to the surprise of friends and neighbors!

Alexander Sychev, candidate of agricultural sciences
http://sadincenter.ru

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Increasingly, currants and gooseberries are now grown not in bushes, but in standard form. And this, judging by the responses and some personal experience, gives significant advantages over traditional cultivation. They consist in facilitating the care of plants and harvesting from them, in enlarging and improving the quality of berries due to better illumination; besides, the berries acquire a kind of decorative effect.
To achieve such a reconstruction of the berry garden is quite simple, and you don't even need to resort to laborious vaccinations.
In order for currants or gooseberries to grow in a standard form, like a small tree, a simple way has been invented. When planting a plant, one of the strongest vertically growing shoot is chosen from a seedling, the rest are cut out directly from the ground.

From the left shoot, all branches are removed to the intended height of the trunk, a tube made of polyethylene or other material that does not transmit light is put on it. The lower end of the tube is buried 10 cm into the soil, and the upper end is raised above the soil to the desired stem height. These plants can be planted much closer together than regular shrubs.
The trees must be tied to a support (pegs or trellis), this is necessary so that they do not break with strong growth or under the influence of wind and fruit loads. If you do not use a light-transmitting tube, then remove all lateral branches to the intended height of the trunk, which is usually 60-100 cm. In subsequent years, 4-5 branches are left and the entire crown is formed. They remove thickening shoots, as well as branches growing down, damaged and older than 7-8 years. Every year, shoots appear at the base of the bush, which must be removed immediately, preventing them from growing.

Pros of the standard form of currants and gooseberries:

Currants and gooseberries in standard form are suitable for small gardens, as the plant takes up less space. Easier maintenance and harvesting. Better illumination improves the quality and size of the berries. More plants can be grown in the same area and a higher yield can be obtained. The method is often used for decorative purposes.

There are climate limitations of this method.
Research by the Siberian Research Institute of Horticulture has shown that they are most reliably protected from frost and freeze less, which means that squat bushes well covered with snow bear fruit better than tall bushes or trees of these crops.
In experiments, the yield of red currants without snow cover decreased by 40-50%, black - by 40-80%, gooseberries - even more. These figures are given on average over 20 years. In cold climates, currant and gooseberry trees must be covered or bent down for the winter to be covered with snow, choose frost-resistant varieties.

So think for yourself, decide for yourself whether or not to have ... standard gooseberries and currants on your site 🙂 Good luck!