Plum refers to trees that form shoots - shoots growing from the root. It harms the plant itself, takes away nutrients and can lead to his death, also creates other problems, affects the yield. How to deal with overgrowth of cherries and plums, if they appear in significant quantities? You can remove it on your own. The details of the disposal process will be discussed further.

What is overgrowth

New trees usually grow from cherry or plum roots that have even minor injuries. In the article, we will consider how to get rid of the plum overgrowth on the site forever. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the reason for its appearance. This is a variety that is endowed with such a feature, while there are plums (cherries) that do not form such thickets. When growing these crops, these offspring can be a major problem.

What is harmful growth

Sprouts sprout quickly around plum trees. If you start the process, they will fill a significant area, occupy a garden bed. Both varietal and grafted specimens are susceptible to the phenomenon. fruit trees... The sprouting newly formed greens and the main plant have a single root system... To learn how to deal with the emerging plum shoot, and how important it is, you need to understand that each sprout feeds continuously during the growing season. Due to the fact that the amount of substances consumed for development and growth is significant, the yield decreases.

How to get rid of the overgrowth?

Causes of occurrence

The following list of reasons leads to this disaster:

• Twice as many shoots are formed in self-rooted trees, in comparison with grafted ones (on seed stocks).
• Violation of agricultural practices during planting. Exposure of roots when the tree is placed high or as a result of spraying.
• Non-compliance technical conditions at the time of grafting a varietal branch to the stock. For example, incompatibility with the scion disrupts the metabolism, which depletes the roots. The plant forms shoots to compensate for insufficient nutrition.
• Inappropriate care after vaccination or planting. For example, improper strapping in the grafted part of the plant. If it is tight, the thickening near it, the tape can cut into the wood. There is an outflow of nutrients from the leaves to the roots. The overgrowth is the tree's defense reaction, because it nourishes the root system.
• Root damage. The reason is a high seating position, their proximity to the surface, and frequent injury. Root shoots develop from adventitious buds in places of damage.
• Incorrect crown formation. Total pruning deprives the roots of sufficient nutrition. This violation of the proportionality of the upper and lower parts leads to the formation of greenery at the roots.
• Depressing conditions: drought, freezing.

Harmful greenery grows at the bottom of trees, be it cherry or plum. Per summer season about 20 young sprouts of various sizes appear. If the shoot originated on a native-rooted varietal tree, it is suitable for propagation. But a vaccinated wild boar produces wild growth, which must be regularly disposed of.

Plum sprouts

Ways to combat overgrowth

How to destroy unwanted greens that have arisen for various reasons in certain situations, as well as what kind of prevention is required? Consider what kind of struggle is carried out for each case:

1. When the roots are exposed, they are covered with soil. But measures must be taken even at the time of landing, preventing its high type.
2. Damage to the roots of a high-planted tree is avoided by replacing digging with loosening, and the soil is also mulched.
3. Incorrectly made strapping of the inoculation is a tight tape. It needs to be changed in time to a weak one in the area of ​​the vaccination site.
4. The incompatibility of the scion and rootstock is manifested in their inappropriate thickness. Must be observed the right technology vaccination.
5. Disproportionate crown pruning is a consequence of a total procedure that must be excluded. You can divide it into several steps, keeping the parts capable of photosynthesis.
6. It is recommended to cut down a frozen tree by grafting newly ripe shoots, otherwise it will gradually dry out.

These methods are more related to prevention. But it is also important to be able to remove overgrowth. It should be removed from the very base of the root, practically leaving no hemp. If they are left, they must be treated with drugs. You can remove young shoots during early spring or late autumn. But if snow remains, or the soil is frozen, a problem may arise when removing sprouts at the bases of horizontal roots under the soil.

Most often, they get rid of the overgrowth at ground level, since the hemp grows again, thickens. Shrubs can form around the cherry or plum tree during the summer. Often you have to use a saw. How to remove excess drain from the site using effective ways that do not damage horizontal roots? Let's look at a number of methods.

Sometimes a saw is used

Overgrowth removal instructions

To completely eliminate the growth in 2 years, you need to cut it off, leaving a stump, which is treated with pure Roundup. When planting plums, the variety is carefully selected, from which abundant shoots are formed in:

• Local Red;
• Ochakovskaya yellow;
• Hungarian ordinary;
• Hungarian Italian.

A small percentage (30% or less) is observed in the following varieties (plums with almost no growth):

• Stanley;
• Renkold Altana;
• Anna Shpet.

Pay attention to the stock during grafting. A small number of basal shoots or their absence is observed in VVA-1, Druzhba, Evrika-99, and Kuban, which are compatible with all varieties with rare exceptions.

They also use a number of the following methods:

• Treatment with a pruner is the simplest way. It is necessary to act below the soil level. Cut sites are treated with pitch. Also, the overgrowth that has arisen on the plum trunk is removed.
• Isolation is done by closing it with cardboard, which is moistened and trampled into the soil, with a radius of 5 m from the trunk. Roofing material is applied on top, covered with sand and soil. You can sow the grass.
• Mulching the soil around the plum tree, which retains moisture and prevents the growth of sprouts.
• Chemical applications include arboricides and herbicides. The former are used when there are others in the garden. fruit plants... Holes are drilled in the hemp and the agent is poured into it, covering the treated area with film for a week. Roundup and Tornado herbicides are weaker in action, diluted with water.

The advantages and disadvantages of the methods are as follows. The secateurs are easy to use, but follow-up care is required. Isolation degrades the landscape. Chemistry can affect other crops, although it is effective in its effect. Similar approaches are used to resolve the issue: how to get rid of excess cherries in the garden forever.

Cultivating cherries on personal plot, many gardeners are faced with the need to cut down and uproot trees. Such work presents certain difficulties, since it is necessary not only to cut down the tree, but also to get rid of all the roots, the length of which can reach 3-5 meters.

In this article, we will show you how to get rid of cherries and how to destroy the roots of trees in your garden plot. Despite the seeming complexity, every gardener is quite capable of doing such work. You just need to properly plan all the work in the garden, and you can easily uproot problem trees on the site.

Getting rid of root growth

Most fruit trees, and cherries in particular, are capable of forming a large number of root shoots, which impairs fruiting and takes life-giving sap from trees. Therefore, it is imperative for the gardener to remove the root growth, not allowing the small cuttings to develop and weaken the main tree.

It is not enough to simply cut off the root shoots, the cherry root and the growing point will remain in the ground, from which a new shoot will appear in just a few weeks. Such shoots can appear constantly from untreated growth points, so the root growth should be removed correctly.

For correct removal root growth cherries, you must carefully dig each such plant directly to the root of the main tree. Next, carefully cut the shoots under the root, and process the growth point on the main cherry root with garden varnish. The latter is necessary to prevent the re-formation of root shoots from the roots of the tree. Remember that the sooner you start removing root growth, the easier it is to get rid of it and the less the cherry on the site will be weakened, and, consequently, you can get an excellent harvest.

Root system

Mature cherries can have a strong root system with a main root that is 3-5 meters long. Experienced gardeners say that in mature trees, the underground part corresponds in size to the aboveground part of the tree. Accordingly, if the height of your cherry is 3-5 meters, then the roots of the tree will have the same dimensions.

The main central root can grow both deeply and be located parallel to the ground at a depth of two to three meters. The lateral branches of the roots, and there can be up to a dozen of them, can also be up to 2-3 meters long. On the lateral branches of the cherry, there are small alveolar roots, which are responsible for nourishing the trees with the appropriate microelements and for delivering moisture from the ground to the tree itself.

How to uproot a tree on a site

It should be said that there are several ways to uproot fruit trees on the site. Some of the gardeners simply cut down cherries at the root, leaving the root system in the ground, and someone tries to burn the roots with chemicals or digs them out of the ground to the maximum.

Let's talk in more detail about how to uproot cherries and then easily plant various fruit trees in the vacant space in the garden.

First of all, you need to decide how you will perform this work... If you have the opportunity to order a tractor, you can slightly saw down the cherry, leaving the trunk at a height of one and a half meters.

Next, they carefully dig in the main roots, tie a strong cable to the tree, and use a tractor to pull the tree out of the ground along with the roots. Such a technology of work allows you to get most of the main cherry roots from the ground, and subsequently the remaining small roots do not pose any problem and quickly die.

If it is not possible to order such special equipment for this work, then you can either try to dig out all the main roots of the cherry on your own or use an old old-fashioned way using appropriate chemicals. The latter method using chemicals is of great interest. Let's describe how to remove cherries using chemicals.

A cherry tree is cut down at the root in autumn, leaving a stump about 30 centimeters high. Further, in the cherry hemp, using a drill, numerous holes are made with the maximum possible depth of 20-30 centimeters. You will need to make a solution based on nitrate, for which about 100 grams of nitrate is diluted in a liter of water. We get a concentrated solution, which is poured into numerous holes made in the hemp. Next, the holes are closed with plugs or wooden plugs. Leave the cherry stump with chemicals until spring.

Saltpeter is highly active and will quickly burn the entire root system of the cherry. The gardener will only have to wait for spring, then pour diesel fuel or any other flammable liquid into the existing holes in the hemp and set fire to the stump. In an hour, the cherry wood will completely burn out, and the roots burnt with saltpeter will not cause any problems and will soon simply rot in the ground.

Manual removal of cherry roots by yourself is a challenge. In fact, you have to dig up trunk circle with a radius of three meters, and you will have to dig to the same three-meter depth. Such work will take several days.

Therefore, it is much easier to either use the appropriate special equipment and forcefully pull the dug cherries out of the ground, or use the technology using saltpeter or any other active chemical. But it is not recommended to use salt for this work. The fact is that salts pollute the site, and subsequently have a bad effect on the growth of vegetables and fruits in the garden. Therefore, we would not recommend using harmful salt for these purposes.

Conclusion

Getting rid of cherries in the garden is not difficult. In this case, the gardener needs to remove all cherry roots, which can reach three meters in length. Such work can be performed as appropriate with special equipment, by digging in the roots by hand, or by using saltpeter, which is poured into small holes in the hemp.

If you do this work correctly, you can not only cut the cherries, but also completely get rid of the roots in the ground. After all, they (the roots) could cause certain difficulties, constantly releasing the basal cherry growth and taking micronutrients from the soil.

Hello dear friends. Cherry is a wonderful and rather unpretentious tree, with an annual harvest. But she, like plums, has one feature: the annual formation of numerous root shoots. The older the tree, the more it is formed and at a greater distance from the mother tree - sometimes tens of meters.

This brings a lot of inconvenience in the garden and vegetable garden, and young trees take nutrients from the fruiting cherry and deplete it. Every year, hundreds of thousands of gardeners ask themselves the question: how to get rid of cherry overgrowth on the site with a minimum of effort and cost.

Cherry varieties and the ability to give root shoots

There is no benefit from growing on grafted cherries, since all of them will be wild. Own-rooted varieties give healthy and good shoots, so they can be used for propagation of cherries by root shoots.

To do this, several of the strongest pieces (2-3, no more, so that the tree itself does not suffer) must be left, and the next one must be dug out and transplanted onto permanent place or send for sale.

These varieties include:

• Vladimirskaya,
• Shubinka,
• Apukhtipskaya,
• Krasnopakhapskaya.

Varietal trees Pamyat Yenikeeva, Malinovka, Rastorguevskaya, Molodezhnaya, Vole give a lot of growth, but it is completely unsuitable for reproduction.

Of the old varieties, there is only one cherry that does not grow at all: this is any variety grafted on the seed stock of Shubinka or Vladimirskaya (in nurseries they warn about this).

Therefore, always check with the seller on which rootstock the tree is grafted!

The minimum number of root shoots is given by the varieties Izmailovskaya and AVCh-2.

The bushy varieties Lyubskaya, Bagryanaya, Schedraya, Shokoladnitsa, Griot Ostgeimsky, English early also do not give growth.

How to get rid of overgrown cherries and plums

If the garden has already been laid, then very often the problem of how and how to remove this growth that annually crawls out in the most unexpected places is quite acute.

Gardeners have long used the digging method - and they make a huge mistake. They do not know that having dug up one shoot at the root, they start the program of replacing it with several ones, which is inherent in all overgrown plants - and next year, in the same place, 3-4 shoots will appear, which are dug out again. And in a few years you will only have to endlessly dig and dig.

How to properly remove shoots?

It's very simple: they need to be cut with pruning shears at ground level at a height of 15-20-30 cm. And that's it! This root will not give any more vegetation. In this way, in a few years, it is possible to completely "wean" the tree from propagating by root shoots, and all forces can be directed to the ripening of the crop.

The second method, how to deal with unwanted cherry vegetation, requires initially quite difficult work, but will help you forget about this problem for a long time.

It is based on the feature that shoots are formed only on the roots, which are located 30-40 cm from the soil surface. Therefore, around a young tree 1-1.5 meters in diameter, sheets of slate, roofing roofing or plastic should be dug in a circle to a depth of 50 cm - they will not allow the roots to grow horizontally, but will send them deeper.

Growth will form inside the circle - here it must either be cut out or you can use this secret: close the soil with dense vegetable mulch at least 10 cm thick (maximum 20 cm) at the trunk itself (further can be more).

This can be cut grass, straw, dry leaves from the forest, tops of plants, under which you can send and kitchen waste. You can even use sawdust, but they must first be moistened with a solution of nitrogen fertilizers.

Only individual shoots can break through such a layer, which must already be destroyed by cutting. Plus, rotting mulch will be an additional fertilizer, retain moisture at the roots, and beneficial microorganisms and insects develop in it.

Several times a season, mulch must be poured so that the layer thickness does not decrease.

Overgrowth chemistry - pros and cons

A frequent question on the forums is whether it is possible to use herbicides to remove root shoots on trees?

And, indeed, it would seem - he sprayed the shoots and that's it, they died. But, there is one big "but!" The shoots have a common root system with the mother tree, they have common juices. And the herbicide that got on the foliage of the shoot, even located far from the cherry (this applies to the plum, and to the sea buckthorn, and to decorative trees and shrubs), with juices it enters the main tree, which can lead to its death.

Therefore, experienced gardeners it is strongly discouraged to use such drugs.

Destruction of pneumatic growth

But to destroy the overgrowth on the stumps of the cut trees, herbicides - perfect solution... You can use any drugs based on glyphosphate - Tornado, Roundup, Smersh, Hurricane.

They must be diluted with water 1: 3, and several holes must be drilled in the stump, where to pour the mixture. Be sure to cover the top with plastic or polyethylene. This will exclude splashing on neighboring plants during rain, as well as, the destruction of the drug from the ultraviolet radiation of the sun.

After 2-3 weeks, repeat the procedure - this will kill the stump, it will begin to decompose and uprooting is not required.

Cherry propagation by growth

Recently, there are fewer cherries in the Ural gardens. And the main reason here is that the varieties grown now in our zone are strongly affected by a very dangerous fungal disease coccomycosis. When infected with coccomycosis, they produce very little or no yield of poor quality. In addition, cherry plants weakened by this disease are severely damaged by frost even in ordinary winters and quickly fall out. To combat this disease, plants are treated with fungicide solutions, which is not always effective and very time consuming. Therefore, it is not always used by gardeners.

With the rapid death of cherry plants when they are infected with coccomycosis, gardeners are often forced to buy new seedlings to replace them. However, they do not always buy varietal seedlings grown in reputable nurseries. Often, in such cases, seedlings are purchased from private owners or generally from random persons. And all this leads to the clogging of gardens with occasional low-hardy, low-yielding, self-fertile plants with low fruit quality. The method of obtaining cherry seedlings by growing its shoots is in this case the main source of supply of counterfeit and low-quality seedlings to the market. Therefore, gardeners should definitely beware of buying such seedlings.

But gardeners may not resort to buying new cherry seedlings when only the aerial part of the plant dies, since shoots usually always begin to grow from the roots of this plant. And all cherry seedlings purchased from reputable large nurseries are grown only from green cuttings. Therefore, the root shoots in such plants are always a varietal crop, and the seedlings grown from it can successfully replace the fallen out plants.

In the amateur gardens of the Urals and Siberia, cherries are propagated mainly by shoots (offspring) or root cuttings. The advantage of these methods is the ability to quickly restore trees after winter freezing.

Shoot propagation is considered one of the most simple ways in amateur gardening, although there is a high probability of contamination of the site with impurities of low-value forms.

Therefore, for this method, only varietal or selected rooted plants are suitable, in which cherries of the same variety as the mother plants will grow from the shoot.

It should be borne in mind that small-fruited, low-yielding forms are often found in self-rooted plantations, which give a lot of growth. Such forms are used only as rootstocks.

The advantages of coppice cherries include higher winter hardiness. Even if, after a harsh winter, the entire aboveground part of the plant is severely damaged or dies, the plant can be easily restored from the growth that will surely appear.

But growth plants also have serious disadvantages. This is a later entry into fruiting in comparison with grafted seedlings, clogging of row spacing with shoots, which are formed a lot, etc. As a rule, they usually begin to bear fruit in the fourth year, and give a noticeable harvest from the age of five.

For reproduction by shoots, such rooted plants are selected so that there is not a large number of shoots around them. Aerial parts of offspring should be developed and strong, 1-2 years old.

Perennial large offspring should not be taken for planting, because they usually have a very weak root system, and feed mainly on mother plant.

It is also not recommended to dig out shoots located closer than 1 meter to the mother plant, since this shoot has practically no roots, but also feeds on the mother plant, and besides, you can accidentally damage the root system of an adult plant.

The best root suckers are those that grow in a sufficiently lit area, not in the shade of the mother plant.

It is better to harvest the growth as follows. In early spring before bud break or at the beginning of October in cloudy weather, at some distance from the shoots, cut the root coming from the mother plant, leave the plant in place, without digging it out, to form its own roots. In the offspring, the aerial part is shortened by one third. Then it must be watered and fertilized, it is advisable to do the second feeding at the end of June.

If there are no fibrous roots on the skeletal root, then it is necessary to stimulate their rapid formation. To do this, it is necessary to cut the skeletal root at a distance of 15-20 cm from the point of attachment of the growth to it. But this must be done from the side farther from the stem of the mother tree. In this form, it is necessary to leave the shoots until the fall of next year.

During the growing season, a root lobe forms at the root rupture site. In autumn, the skeletal root on the other side of the growth plant must be chopped off.

A year later, young shoots are dug up. If the plant has good roots, then it is planted in a permanent place, deepening by 7-8 cm. The aboveground part is cut off by a third or half of its length in early spring to bring it into line with the root system. And if the roots are young plant weak, then it is planted on the ridge for growing.

In addition to this method of obtaining self-rooted plants, propagation of selected high-quality, high-yield varieties of cherries by root cuttings is also used.

To do this, in early spring, the roots are dug at a distance of 1-1.5 meters from the trunk and 10-15 cm lengths are cut from a part of the root with a thickness of 0.4-1.5 cm. They are planted on ridges or grooves and covered with a film cover,

The main condition in the first month after planting is to prevent the slightest drying out of the soil, otherwise the cuttings will not germinate.

If several buds germinate on the handle, the strongest shoot is left, the rest are removed. During the growing season (end of June - July), fertilizing is carried out 2-3 times with urea or slurry (1: 7).

Digging up the plants better in spring next year, selecting the strongest of them. The rest grow for one more season.

If the cuttings are prepared in the fall, then before spring planting store them in a basement in wet sand at a temperature of 0-2 ° C.

In order for young self-rooted plants to bear fruit for a long time, it is necessary to constantly deal with their formation.

To do this, from the offspring that will soon grow in young plants, they leave those closer to the trunk (3-4), they will serve as a replacement for fruiting and gradually aging plants, the rest of the offspring are annually cut out at the base of the soil.

If we periodically make up for the loss of depleted soil and fight pests and diseases, then an excellent harvest from such plants can be obtained for many, many years.

As a result of this formation, the coppice cherry gradually turns into a bush with uneven-aged shoots coming from the ground, which can later be easily turned into independent plants.

When the old part of the bush begins to bear fruit poorly, mother plant must be cut close to the soil surface. By this time, a young "change" should be prepared in the form of the 3-4 strongest root suckers left, which are formed and cut in the described way.

If we periodically replenish the loss of depleted soil and fight pests and diseases, then an excellent harvest from such plants can be obtained for many, many years.

Excessive growth from plants must be ruthlessly removed to the very base. To do this, you need to shake off the soil and cut the growth into a ring to the base of the trunk or skeletal root. If you leave at least a small stump, then an even more powerful growth will develop.

V.G.Shafransky

Cherry is one of the most unpretentious and drought-resistant plant species, and almost everyone loves its fruits. Perhaps the only drawback of this tree can be called the annually appearing shoots, from which I will not save, how do not cut them down. If you are tired of removing them annually (and often several times per season), then knowing how to get rid of cherry overgrowth on the site will be very useful.

The causes of the appendages

It would seem that this is an obvious step, but even experienced gardeners sometimes neglect it. But you just need to carefully study this issue once, and reducing the number of processes will become a matter of technology. So, there can be several reasons for the appearance of overgrowths:

• freezing of the tree due to the snowless and cold winter;
• burns received in cool and humid spring weather;
• damage to roots when digging up soil next to a tree;
• too much cropped crown;
• various diseases and pests.

Summarizing these reasons, we can say that with any negative impact, cherries begin to actively reproduce by root shoots.

Care rules

Having found out the main reasons provoking the rapid growth of processes, you can formulate a number of rules for the proper care of cherries.

• Unacceptable cardinal pruning old plants. And young trees require timely removal of shoots.
• Any "excavation" under a tree and planting of vegetable or fruit crops... Even minor damage to the root system can cause overgrowth to appear.
• Watering the plant is necessary rarely and abundantly. The number of processes increases if you do it often and little by little.
• It is important to mulch the soil under the trees. Otherwise, in hot weather, the soil cracks, which leads to damage to the roots and undesirable consequences.
• If you have time and effort, slate sheets can be buried around the circumference of the trunk at a distance of one meter. Usually, it is enough to do this at a depth of 50 cm. Instead of slate, you can use other unnecessary material (corrugated board, sheet metal, and so on). As a result, the processes appear only within this circle, not spreading throughout the entire area.
• While savoring the fruits of cherries, you should not spit the seeds on the ground, as seed sprouts can be just as troublesome.
• If possible, cherries should be planted in the shade of large trees. So it will give much fewer shoots than when located in an unshaded open space.

These simple rules will help to reduce the scale of problems, but they can be completely avoided only with competent actions at the stage of choosing seedlings.

Selection of varieties

Thanks to the achievements of botany, gardeners have the opportunity, in general, not to waste time and effort on conducting an endless struggle with shoots. Varietal trees grafted on seed stocks of Shubinka or Vladimirskaya varieties do not form shoots at all. In some cases, a reasonable solution would be to completely get rid of the cherries available on the site and plant the indicated varieties.

If for some reason it was not possible to find them, then you can make a choice in favor of "Izmailovskaya" or "AVCh-2" - they give a minimum of shoots. Among the bushy varieties, one can distinguish "English Early", "Lyubskaya", "Griot Ostgeimsky", "Shokoladnitsa", "Crimson" and "Generous", which also will not cause trouble with their shoots.

Prevention is in any case much more effective than manual labor to remove overgrowth. Therefore, a little additional knowledge about seedlings will be useful.

• Most of all headaches are delivered to gardeners by self-rooted seedlings. But their shoots do not lose their varietal qualities, so such "offspring" can serve as an equivalent replacement for the aged main tree. They can also be sold. Among the representatives of this variety can be distinguished such species as "Krasnopakharskaya", "Apukhtinskaya" and "Shubinka".
• Varietal trees from clonal rootstocks also give a lot of growth, but these are just wilds, completely unsuitable for reproduction. The prospect of having a lot of undergrowth on the site, which is of no value, probably will not please anyone. Therefore, you should not get carried away with the varieties "Malinovka", "Molodezhnaya", "Pamyat Yenikeev", "Rastorguevskaya".

Before buying a seedling, you should always be interested in whether it is grafted or whether it is a rooted plant. It is recommended to choose those varieties that are grown on seed stocks. The problem of overgrowth removal will arise annually. When planting a young plant, you need to straighten the roots so that they are directed downward, otherwise processes will soon appear.

Prevention

Unfortunately, gardeners learn about preventive measures and prevent the appearance of shoots too late - when the choice of seedlings has long been made and, having turned into mature plants, they have already given abundant growth. At this stage, you need to use the described recommendations for proper plant care, but it is equally important to organize the correct removal of the growth. First, let's make a small summary of the practical experience of seasoned gardeners.

• Many argue that removing unnecessary shoots in spring immediately after the swelling of the kidneys, it helps to reduce the rate of their regrowth.
• Some use a lawn mower to mow the undergrowth that has not hardened. It grows anyway, but this method saves time and effort.
• Most experts agree that the method of removing the appendages is not critical. The main thing is to do it on time - right after their appearance, not allowing them to gain strength. Only then will there be fewer of them;

These are the advice of ordinary people. But there are also scientifically based recommendations from the field of botany. They boil down to the fact that you need to buy and plant those varieties that do not give growth at all. Because of such flawless, but distant from reality ordinary people position of the scientific community, among gardeners to this day there is no consensus about the right way removal of processes.

Overgrowth removal methods

There are two main methods of mechanical overgrowth removal. As practice shows, if a person has become an adherent of one of them, then ideological considerations will no longer allow him to try the second method. The logic and philosophy of these methods are so opposite. First, consider the one that is more time consuming. It includes several steps:

• first you need to dig up the process to the place where it grows from the horizontally located root of the tree;
• then carefully chop it off without leaving a hemp;
• then carefully process this root area with garden pitch, so that in the future nothing grows there and the tree does not become infected with diseases;
• it remains to bury this hole and trample.

Such a simple, but energy-consuming operation must be done with all the growths that are on the site. Proponents of this method argue that this is the only way to solve the problem.

The second method takes much less time and effort. It consists in the fact that the shoots must be cut off with a pruner at ground level. The adherents of this method argue that the shoots cannot exist without the above-soil part, therefore, by cutting it off, you can gradually "wean" the cherry from craving for reproduction by root shoots. That is, a new shoot will not appear at this place, and all the forces of the tree will be concentrated on the ripening of the crop.

It is very difficult for novice gardeners to understand this issue and take sides. The two opposing camps not only consider each other incompetent, but are also accused of provoking the growth of new shoots. Proponents of the digging method argue that when the shoots are cut, hemp and buds remain in the ground, from which even more powerful shoots will grow next year.

Adherents of the cutting method are sure that when a shoot is excavated from the root, the replacement program inherent in coppice crops is launched from the plant, and the next year several shoots will appear in the same place. The parties believe that the method of the opposite side not only does not solve the problem, but also increases its scale.

As already said, scientific research this issue has not been carried out and is not planned. In such a situation, everyone is forced to act at their own discretion. Common sense dictates that the less time-consuming method should be tried first.

Drastic measures

The previous recommendations were intended for those who love and want to grow cherries, while looking for effective ways to deal with the scions. But there are also those who do not like the fruits of this tree. And if such a person, as a result of purchase or inheritance, becomes the owner of a plot with a neglected cherry orchard, then radical measures cannot be dispensed with. There are several ways to solve the problem of how to remove the shoots.

• The fastest and most efficient way is to dig everything up with an excavator or tractor. Of course, if heavy equipment can enter the site, and no buildings interfere with its passage directly to the cherry orchard.
• But also with the help of heavy equipment, you can pull out the main trees along with the roots, after which you can forget about the growth.

• If for some reason mechanized way unacceptable, then you can cut off all the processes and cut down the main trees, and then manually dig up and uproot the roots of the plants.
• If the plot is quite large, and the territory of the cherry orchard is not needed for any purpose right now, then you can only do with cutting and sawing off what is on the surface and wait for the roots to rot naturally. True, the operation to mow the shoots will have to be performed several times per season, but after a couple of years this need will disappear, since the plants cannot survive without the aboveground part.

These methods are also suitable for those who decided to stop the annual struggle with shoots and plant those cherry varieties on their site that, in general, do not give shoots.

An even more radical method of solving the problem is the use of herbicides, which will help to destroy all overgrowth. This is dangerous not only when removing the overgrowth while preserving the mother tree, but also when completely eliminating the cherry orchard. The poisonous chemical, of course, will fulfill its main function and cause the death of plants, penetrating into their roots. However, it will remain in the ground as well, exhibiting persistent residual effects. And the disintegration of the herbicide will not occur as quickly as its manufacturers assure. In addition, the use of chemical leads only to the death of plants, the need to dig up and uproot the roots still remains.

Thus, the most effective way getting rid of cherry overgrowth on the site is the removal of existing trees with roots. Instead, you need to purchase and plant varietal seedlings on a seed stock that do not give shoots that will only bear fruit well. Better method modern botany cannot offer it yet.

How to get rid of cherry sprouts, see below.