How to build a shower out of wood with your hands. Do-it-yourself wooden shower to give: installation technology

Nothing relaxes so much after a hard day's work in the country as a summer shower. Water not only calms, but also refreshes, distracts from unpleasant thoughts and relieves stress. But what to do if there is no shower on the site? If you don’t want to splash around in a trough or basin, you need to take care of comfort in the field and design a refreshing summer shower for your favorite dacha with your own hands, using ready-made photos and drawings.

How to build a summer shower with your own hands

Summer shower occupies one of the first places among all summer cottages. Sometimes this is not just a way to wash up after a day of cultivating the land has come to an end, but also the only way to cool off in the heat.

First you need to choose a place to install a shower facility. To do this, you should study your site for secluded places.

On the other hand, this place should not be far from the main building, so that you do not have to freeze on the way to a warm house if you decide to take a shower on a cool day.

Advice! If a solar heated tank is foreseen, make sure nothing is obscuring the water tank.

After you have found a suitable place, choose the optimal dimensions for your cabin. Please note that a person needs a room of at least 1 m 2 for ease of movement. If a dressing room is planned for changing clothes and storing dry things while bathing, the building is increased by another 60-70 cm. The height of the shower cabin is approximately 2.5 m. So, the estimated dimensions of the shower for giving are 170x100x250 cm.

If the structure is supposed to be wooden, then the next stage of construction will be the construction of a frame from wooden beam or metal corner.

Next are the walls. Please note that for better ventilation, the walls should recede from the ceiling and the pallet by at least 20-30 cm. The walls are built mainly from the materials that remained during the construction of the main summer cottage.

Water supply in the country shower

When installing a shower for a summer residence with your own hands, it is imperative to provide for the supply and discharge of water in advance. The drain system is laid at the stage of foundation construction, and the supply of clean water is organized during the installation of the tank.

The construction of a summer shower for a summer residence is not complete without questions related to the choice of material and the determination of the size of the structure. In addition, I want the building to be heated. This will make it possible to swim on cold days when the water in the tank does not have time to warm up from the sun. An important issue is the organization of drainage and discharge of dirty water. Today we will look at how to build a summer shower with our own hands, and we will try to address all the questions of interest.

A country shower is so simple that it does not require a detailed diagram. Usually withstand the standard dimensions of the booth 1000x1000x2200 mm. It is impossible to build a cabin below, since it will take part of the height wooden pallet, plus a watering can over your head. But the width and depth of the structure, it is desirable to individually select the physique of the owners. For example, an obese person in a small booth will be cramped, so the dimensions will have to be increased.

Drawing of a simple summer shower for a summer residence

If you decide to cultivate the building, build a dressing room with a dressing room, install benches and a table in it, drawings will already be needed here. Draw what you want to build, specify all dimensions. When drawing up a detailed diagram, consider the following points:

Wooden shower cubicle

Building a cabin out of wood is the most common option due to its ease of construction. Wood is an environmentally friendly material, easy to process. Its only drawback is susceptibility to moisture and bugs, so it requires additional processing. To build a wooden shower for a summer residence, you will need boards and timber, preferably from coniferous trees. You can, of course, use oak or larch. The material made from these types of wood is more durable, but it is more difficult to process. Having decided on the material, get to work:

Since we are building a wooden shower, we will make the frame from wood. The main load on the racks will create a tank of water. If its volume is about 200 liters, then the main racks must be installed from a bar with a section of 100x100 mm. To fix the door, install additional racks made of timber with a section of 50x50 mm. The distance between them is equal to the width of the doors themselves with the door frame.
under everything vertical racks dig holes 80 mm deep. Fill the bottom of the pits with a 100 mm layer of crushed stone and sand.
To make the tree rot less in the ground, grease the edges of the timber with bitumen or machine oil. Top wrap with two layers of roofing material. Insert the posts into the pits, level them with a plumb line and concrete.
Another method to extend the life of the posts is to cast metal bushings. They can be made from pieces of a metal pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. When the concrete hardens, chop off the edges of the square beam with an ax to the size of the inner diameter of the pipes and install them in the concrete bushings. Under the door pillars, similarly concrete bushings from a pipe of a smaller diameter.
When installing vertical racks, make the front ones from the side of the doors 100 mm higher than the rear ones. The difference in height will help build a pitched roof.
Connect the exposed racks around the perimeter from below and from above with horizontal jumpers, securing them with bolts. If you plan to make the floor in the form of a wooden lattice, reinforce the lower lintels with metal mounting corners. The jumpers will be supports for the logs and must support the weight of a person.
Now you need to make a frame for the tank from wooden jumpers fixed on top of the frame. A tank filled with water made of any material has an impressive weight, so the frame under it must be made strong.
Flat water tank for water installed on the roof of the shower
Sheathe the sides of the cabin frame with a sanded board. Make a door from a board 20-25 mm thick. Cut it to the required length, lay it in a row and sew it with cross bars. Knock down the door frame from a board 40-50 mm thick and fix the door to it with hinges. Now the whole structure can be bolted to the door pillars.
Treat the finished booth with an antiseptic and cover with drying oil or varnish. Cover the door from the inside with a film so that water does not get on it.

Variants of wooden cabins for a summer shower

Polycarbonate cabin

It is easier to build a polycarbonate booth than a wooden one, but you will need welding experience. The fact is that for polycarbonate it is necessary to weld a frame from a metal profile. For racks, a profile with a section of 40x60 mm will go, and a smaller section can be used for strapping. The use of a wooden frame for polycarbonate is not desirable, since both materials tend to "play" from changes in weather conditions. From this, polycarbonate sheets can be deformed.

The process of manufacturing a metal frame for polycarbonate is similar wooden structure. Concrete the main racks, and then weld the upper and lower jumpers. Three jumpers must be made in the middle of the frame so that the polycarbonate sheets do not sag. The fourth is not needed. She will interfere with the doors. From above, weld the frame under the tank. Make a frame for the door from a profile with a section of 20x20 mm and fix it with hinges to the rack. Paint the entire structure with waterproof paint.

For sheathing, use opaque polycarbonate honeycomb sheets, 6-10 mm thick. Cut a large sheet into fragments according to the size of the booth circular saw. Fix the resulting polycarbonate plates to the frame with self-tapping screws with a thermal washer. The door is also sheathed with a sheet of polycarbonate. Bolt the handle and latch to the frame.

Polycarbonate shower option with dressing room

Shower tank

Cabin made of corrugated board

A good option for giving would be to build a cabin from corrugated board. Lightweight, strong and durable material will last for years. For a metal profile, both metal and wooden frame, but always with additional cross bars. Sheets of corrugated board are soft, and additional emphasis will not interfere with them. We build any of the frames for the metal profile in the same way as the above options. In any case, weld the door frame from a metal profile.

Fastening the corrugated board is done with galvanized self-tapping screws with a sealing washer through one wave. First fix the sheets of corrugated board on the side walls, then sheathe the door. If you need to cut the material, use scissors or a special disc with teeth on the grinder so as not to burn when cutting polymer coating corrugated board.

Cabin made of bricks

The construction of a brick cabin in the country requires the construction of a foundation. To do this, it is enough to dig a trench 200 mm wide and 400 mm deep along the perimeter of the future structure. Fill the trench with a brick battle and fill it with liquid concrete so that it seeps between it. A week after the concrete has hardened, start laying bricks on cement mortar. Don't forget to install a box for the door. The door itself can be made of wood or a frame can be welded from a profile and sewn up with a sheet of corrugated board. On the last masonry, wall in across the building wooden bars, preferably the thickness of the brick. They will lay the roof and fix the tank.

Installing the roof and tank

The material for the roof will need to be hard. Slate or corrugated board is well suited. Having secured roofing material, drill a hole in the center of the roof. Place the tank on top so that the water supply tube passes through the hole. Screw the tap and watering can onto the tube.

The optimal tank capacity for a country shower is 200 liters. In the store you can buy a plastic or galvanized tank or make it yourself by welding from stainless steel. Any container with a neck for pouring water will serve as a tank. To make a shower for a cottage with heated water, mount a heating element with a power of 2 kW in a metal tank. Paint the top with black paint. Dark color attracts the sun's rays, and the water will heat up faster.

Scheme of the device of the tank for a summer shower with heating

If you install wood-burning titanium in a cabin in the country house, then in addition to hot water, you will get a heated room. Then you will need to install a second tank with cold water next to it.

Arrangement of the floor and drainage

The floor and drainage of the shower for giving can be done in two ways:

Summer shower in a country house

In the presence of free space, country shower can be built in the house. To do this, it is better to purchase a shower stall in the store. V concrete floor make a recess and install the acrylic tray according to the product instructions. Connect the siphon on the pallet with a corrugated hose to the sewer. Seal the joints of the pallet to the floor with sealant. Further, according to the instructions, assemble the frame from the profile, install the doors, supply cold and hot water from the boiler.

As you can see, you can build a summer shower with your own hands in the country from almost any material. The main thing is to prepare drawings, material, tools and show aspiration.

In contact with

It is unlikely that anyone will agree to deny themselves the pleasure of taking an outdoor shower, which allows them to refresh themselves at the end of a hard day's work. In this article, we will tell you how to make a summer shower with your own hands from various materials (polycarbonate, metal profiles, bricks, wood), show the exact dimensions, and also provide photo and video instructions.

A similar approach to the manufacture of a shower structure will save on expensive materials, and no less important - to make a structure that best suits your individual preferences.

Site selection and options

A place for a shower is chosen, as a rule, in an open area, located at some elevation above the general level of a suburban area. Since solar energy is used to heat water in structures of this type, the place under them should not be located in the shade of trees and other high-rise objects.

It is known that summer shower cabins of various architectures are traditionally built in our summer cottages (including quite original designs). However, they can all be reduced to the following options versions:

buildings of a light type without strong side walls;
lightweight structures equipped with improvised side walls;
capital shower houses with walls made of polycarbonate or similar material.

Consider each of the above embodiments in more detail.

Shower cubicle dimensions

Inside the shower cabin should be comfortable enough to easily bend over, turn around and stand freely. Therefore, you can build on these sizes:

Height 2–3 m.
Length 1.9 m.
Width 1.4 m.

These sizes are quite comfortable. Considering the thickness of the walls, the room will decrease slightly. At the same time, the shower cubicle itself will have an average size of 1 × 1, as well as a dressing room of 0.6 × 0.4 m.

From improvised materials

The simplest design of a shower made from improvised materials includes a tank with a tap built into it, a standard shower head and a regular watering hose. Such a simple structure is installed near the house, and the tank is mounted on the wall or roof of the building at a height slightly higher than human height.

The location of the tank should be chosen in such a way that the sun's rays linger on it for as long as possible during the day.

After fixing the collection tank, a valve cock is built into it, on which a hose of suitable length is put on with a shower head installed at its end.

The convenience of this option for a summer shower is that in this case you can do without arranging a separate shower stall. The main thing to pay attention to is to protect the wall and roof of the house well from the damaging effects of moisture that accumulates near the tank. To this end, the area of \u200b\u200bthe building in the area where the latter is located should be isolated with special water-repellent impregnations or simply covered with several layers of ordinary oilcloth.

Note that this embodiment has natural disadvantages, which are as follows:

the place of taking a shower in this case is completely unprotected from the wind;
a significant part of the daytime it will be in the shade of the house;
there is a threat of gradual destruction of the walls of the house from moisture accumulating in this place.

Given all these shortcomings, the use of such structures is, as a rule, limited.

The process of building a wooden summer shower consists of several successive steps. First of all, you need to prepare a place. It must be well ventilated, as under the influence of constant exposure to moisture, the structure can quickly become unusable. Next, you need to dig a hole 1 × 1 m and a depth of 0.4 m. You fill it with rubble. This must be done so that the soapy water does not spread over the summer cottage, but has time to soak into the soil.

If you have organized sewage disposal in drain hole, then you skip this stage of preparation.

Sheathing frame clapboard.
Painting.
Tank installation.

Frame construction

Take boards with a section of 30 mm × 15 cm and make a 1 × 1 base. Attach 4 side beams to it, the section of which is 100 × 70 mm. They will serve as the basis for installing the tank. They must be installed in the grooves.

Frame sheathing

For sheathing the frame, you can use a false beam, blockhouse or lining. When mounting them, leave a gap of up to 3 mm between each bar. This also applies to the first at the base. In this case, under the influence of moisture, the product will be able to expand freely. If this is not taken into account, then the summer shower will turn into an "accordion".

Painting

When the plating is completed, you can start painting. To do this, the entire surface should be covered with antifungal impregnation. The next layer will be facade acrylic water-borne varnish. It is applied in 3 layers.

You should not save on varnish, so it is better to apply it in sufficient quantity. It is important to ensure that water slides easily over the surface of the walls and does not linger in the shower. Such painting is carried out both outside and inside.

Tank installation

To store water, you can install a tank of 100 liters. The tank can be made of different materials, stainless steel, plastic, etc. You can buy a ready-made tank just for this purpose. Some homeowners often find one or another container to install on an outdoor shower.

In conclusion, it remains to hang the curtain on the hooks. On average, such a shower can be built in 1-2 days.

Photo instructions for making a summer shower from wood

Another option for building a shower is to use polycarbonate. To build it, you will need to purchase the following building material:

Polycarbonate. The sheet size is 2.1 × 1.2 m. For arranging a shower, a thickness of 8–15 mm will be enough. As for the choice of color, then choose one that is less transparent milky or bronze.
For fastening, special hardware, tapes and corners will be required.
Frame material such as wood, metal angle or pipe, brick, aluminum profile, etc.
Shower tank.
Shower diffuser.
If necessary, a plastic pipe for the drain.

We have already discussed the general principle of constructing a frame for a summer shower made of wood above. Therefore, it is worth paying attention to some specific features working with polycarbonate.

Any material, be it stone, wood or metal, can support the weight of polycarbonate. But there is one caveat. This material is distinguished by its windage, so the frame should be equipped with a sufficient number of cross-shaped, vertical and horizontal jumpers.

The thickness of the frame material for polycarbonate may be less than for wood.

Tank installation

The tank is mounted on installed frame. Due to this, the water is heated in it by the sun's rays. Usually a flat tank is installed, but strict rules there is no.

It is better to install a tank in a polycarbonate shower under the roof. Thus, there will be a greenhouse effect and the water will heat up much faster and cool down accordingly.

Installation of polycarbonate

If you want to make a locker room, you will need two sheets of polycarbonate. For walls, use opaque, and for the roof, use transparent, so the water will heat up faster. First of all, make blanks by cutting the sheets to the desired dimensions.

A polycarbonate sheet can be cut with an ordinary knife both along the voids and across.

Be sure to process the cut sandpaper. Check for sawdust getting inside the comb. If yes, then they can be removed with a vacuum cleaner. To prevent chipping when drilling holes, step back from the edge of 3-4 cm. Drilling should be between the stiffeners. Be sure to cover the edges of the sheet with perforated tape. This is done so that debris, dust, water, etc. do not get inside the cells. As for the end part, use the end profile, H-shaped or angular.

To prevent condensation inside the honeycombs, drill thin holes in several places. Enough 3 holes per 1 m profile.

Photo

Video

In this video you will see how to make a wooden shower:

This video will talk about the possibility of a quick shower construction:

Scheme

Photo instruction of a summer shower on a plank base

Against the background of a huge number of varieties of garden strawberries, the ampelous variety stands out. This strawberry with uncharacteristic pink, very decorative flowers is easy to recognize by both fruiting mother plants and rosettes extending from them. After reviewing the care of her, having studied the rules of cultivation and looking at the photo, you can safely proceed to planting this unusual berry crop.

Features of ampelous strawberries

If an ordinary strawberry bears fruit once a season, a remontant two, then it can be said about an ampelous strawberry that it is able to bear fruit throughout the year.

Thanks to the work of breeders, ampelous strawberries grow before flower stalks are formed, flower buds are laid on them and, accordingly, an additional crop ripens. Further, the mustache itself continues to form the following. As a result, one bush can be continuously harvested.

In addition, this variety has excellent decorative qualities and can serve as a wonderful decoration for a balcony, veranda, etc.

Advice. For growing in a room, it is better to select varieties of neutral daylight hours that have a very long fruiting period.

In some sources, you can find it under the name "curly", but this is not entirely correct. By nature, strawberries cannot wrap themselves around anything. Some gardeners, for decorative purposes, simply tie a mustache with rosettes to a support. At the same time, it seems that the strawberry itself “climbs” up.

If you plant several bushes in a flowerpot or hanging pot, the sockets will fall very beautifully from mother plant, creating cascades of leaves, flowers and berries.

When considering the fruiting of ampelous varieties, it can be unequivocally stated that this is a remontant variety. On the bush at the same time you can see buds, flowers and berries. Thanks to this, in appropriate conditions, it is possible to observe flowering and pick berries almost all year round. Popular varieties:

Homemade delicacy;
Temptation;
Tarpan;
Elan;
Novel;
balcony stream;
Balcony charm.

Almost all of them are hybrids that are adapted to growing in any conditions, resistant to some diseases and give a decent harvest. I would especially like to note the Tuscany variety. Despite its recent appearance, it has already gained worldwide recognition. It differs in rich pink flowers and rather large fragrant berries.

Growing Options

If you show imagination and make very little effort, then bushes of ampelous strawberries can become a wonderful decoration for the site.

Growing in pots and vases. In this case, any containers can be used for landing. For the normal development of the plant, their depth must be at least 30 cm. A mandatory requirement is holes for water drainage and a drainage layer. Seedlings intended for planting should be sprinkled with earth and kept for two weeks in a dark, cool place. Planting plants in a pot should not be too dense and not very deep.

Advice. Hand grown in hanging planter a lush strawberry bush can be a wonderful gift for a novice gardener.

Grid growing. As a lattice, you can use a metal mesh, wicker fence, etc. Bushes are planted in the soil 30 cm apart. Growing mustaches are tied up along the lattice.

Advice. The height of the lattice should be selected no more than 1 m. So the plants will be able to completely cover it with fruit-bearing and flowering bushes at the same time.

Landing in the form of a pyramid. For such a landing, you will need 3-4 boxes 30 cm high, without a bottom, of different sizes. The largest is placed on the ground in the garden and covered with fertile soil. A second, smaller one is placed on top and is also filled with earth. The smallest of them is placed on top. Soil is also poured into it. It turns out a cascade of boxes in which seedlings are planted. After growing, this structure looks like a green pyramid, covered with flowers and berries.
Vertical beds. This method is used for growing ampelous strawberries in greenhouses. They are made from wide plastic pipes(diameter about 110 cm). Holes are cut into them after a certain interval, into which, after filling the pipe with nutrient soil, seedlings are planted.

How to plant seedlings

Planting ampelous varieties does not differ much from planting other types of strawberries.

The bottom of the pot or groove in the bed is lined with drainage material.
From above it is covered with nutrient soil, consisting of soddy soil, humus, manure and peat.
Well watered. After the soil settles, the earth is filled up.
Landing holes are being made.
One plant is distributed in each well.
The roots are pressed with wet earth so that the core remains at the top.

Advice. In order for the seedlings to take root faster, it is advisable to dip each rhizome in a clay mash.

How to care

Planted seedlings need frequent moisture. It should be watered 2 times a day a little. After 2 weeks, watering is reduced - it will be enough 1 time in 3 days. The first flower stalks are removed. So the plant will give all its strength to the development of the root system, which will make the plant strong.

Mustaches on each bush should remain no more than 5 pcs. All excess is plucked off. Top dressing is carried out regularly with mineral fertilizers.

Ampelous strawberry transplantation must be carried out every 3-4 years. In the spring, the antennae are plucked from the strongest bushes and transplanted to a new bed or into a new container. In the case of a flower bed, you can completely replace the soil and plants.

For the winter, you can not leave containers with strawberries on the street. All of them need to be brought into a warm room. If this is not possible, the container is dug into the ground and covered with a covering material.

For beds protruding above ground level, special frames are constructed, the surface of which is covered with roofing material, lutrasil, etc., and then sprinkled with something insulating, for example, sawdust, straw or hay.

Ampel strawberry is an amazing plant that can become a real decoration of a balcony, backyard or room. And all this is combined with a long period of enjoyment of fragrant and tasty berries.

Features of planting ampelous strawberries: video

As Ostap Bender would say, a dacha shower is not a luxury, but a means of hygiene. Moreover, a means of paramount importance: according to medical statistics, people who put off bathing after the weekend at the dacha until they arrive home go to the doctors about skin and gastrointestinal diseases 12% more often than others; data of a similar nature are not available for other types of health disorders.

You can buy a simple country shower room, designed only for summer weather, for 10,000 rubles. Having spent an amount that is 2-3 times less, or even from improvised materials, you can build a warm shower with your own hands, suitable for bath procedures from the beginning to the end of the summer season. In this case, a full range of amateur products is found - from a slimy konurka, the dream of a greedy dermatologist (there will be many patients, they will give money) through completely functional, hygienic and even almost not spoiling the view of the building site to structures made of, for example, construction waste, at the sight of which the experienced designer nods his head knowingly, see fig.

But, which is typical, there is no medical correlation with the type of shower - purchased, of different price categories, or home-made. A “super-duper firm” for 70-100 “sput”, with automation and touch-remote control, can turn out to be a hotbed of infection, and a shower concocted from a kondachka in the country will faithfully guard the cleanliness and health of the owners for many years and decades.

Do-it-yourselfers with manufacturers are not to blame here; and that, and others efforts, skills and considerations do not occupy. It's simple - no one really knows how to do it, a country shower. If any regulatory rules its devices are, then neither the builders, nor the plumbers, nor the orderlies know anything about them. It is clear that you need to do a country shower correctly in essence, i.e. so that it does not infect, but does not infect, and so that the contents of wastewater do not kill the earth and spoil the crop, but how? It's dark here, like in Khrushchev's bathroom, when the plugs were knocked out.

For example, the minimum volume of a cesspool is supposed to be 2 cubic meters. m, but this is with the standard volume of flow, and in the country it is many times less. The biochemistry of the cesspool is disgusting, but well balanced; the pit should neither overflow nor dry out. Modern (dry closets) allow you to reduce the volume of the cesspool and the frequency of calls to the toilet, but the processes in the cesspool do not fundamentally change. What volume and design do you need a cesspool for an outdoor shower? I have no idea, as Barack Obama would say. The same applies to other components and structural elements. In fact, those who want to make a country shower competently are pulled according to the norm from there, then from there, and there - maybe they will all come together. Or maybe they will disperse, and the byaka will come out.

Well, let's try to include what mother nature of the American president has yet to deprive a little, to say at the end: "Well, at least I've found a good ideal!". We will design a summer shower for ourselves, based on the principles:

Hygiene - neither the shower itself nor the water for it should harm those washing, only benefit.
Environmental friendliness - the drain from the shower should not harm the environment either in the near (in the form of compliance of the crop from the site with sanitary standards) or in the long term (in the form of water quality from local water sources) perspective, in space and time.
Practicality, it is also functionality - it should not only be possible, but it should be pleasant and useful not only to freshen up in the heat, but also to wash in any weather from the first to the last trip to the country.
Aesthetics - a shower cabin for a summer residence should at least not spoil landscape design site, but, preferably, organically fit into it. An alternative is an invisible shower, collapsible or not conspicuous.
Profitability - the construction of a shower should take a minimum of labor, materials and financial costs, without prejudice to any of the previous qualities.

We will use the existing norms and rules, but for verification, so as not to fantasize nonsense. And we also use a good bit of knowledge about physical and chemical processes in nature and the soul. Data in normative documents- the tip of the iceberg and, since there is no single set of them for country showers, you will have to turn to the basics. To properly build a shower, let's go from one critical node to another; what is in the middle, then it will be easier. Realistically, in this order:

Base.
Stock and cesspool.
Design choice.
The possibility of combining functions (shower, combined with a toilet, etc.)
Floor, pallet and platform.
Cabin - frame, walls, etc.
Diffuser (watering can), pipelines, valves.
Additional equipment - water heater, cabin heating, pumping.

What does all-weather mean?

Item 3 of the list above is especially important for medical reasons. When it is violated, the case no longer smells of itchy ankles and shoulders, but of such things as pneumonia. A heated shower means more than just hot or warm water.

Let's say it's +13 outside, but you need to wash. The cabin has cooled down to the same temperature: there will be only sense from warming (may the readers forgive the involuntary pun) if there are heat sources inside the washing room. Without them, you will have to tremble and shiver for 2-5 minutes until the heat of the spray from the watering can heats up the cabin. And in the meantime and hot water may end, the tank is not vat.

So, you need to heat not only the water in the tank, but also the air in the shower. It is highly desirable to create a warm island in a light cabin with large gaps at the bottom and top. How to achieve this, we'll see when it comes to additional equipment; for now, as they say, we will tie a knot.

child question

Why is the shower separate? In the apartment he is together. Then, that summer cottages are not equipped with sewage. Here it is appropriate to recall the rule: the cesspool should be at least 15 m away from residential buildings. The point is not only in miasma, but also in the fact that the filtrate from the cesspool is able to wash away the foundation of the house with all the consequences. It is still possible to arrange a shower in a country house. Then, if the house is heated, then the shower will be all-weather.

Note: a bioseptic tank, which almost does not give harmful fumes, under certain conditions can be moved closer to the house by 4-5 m. But this topic already applies to the arrangement of country toilets.

Country shower device

Base

When zero is not needed

The need for a zero cycle of country-shower work is eliminated in the following cases, see fig. below:

When a compact portable shower is used, on the left in fig.
If the shower with adjacent outbuildings are ready-made modular, in the center in fig.
If the cabin is on a frame made of plastic pipes (propylene or PVC) with soft skin, on the right there.

A compact shower in a suitcase (on sale - a large selection) is used in any random place, but is inconvenient in terms of water heating; it is difficult to adapt a water heater to it, and compactness with mobility is immediately lost. Capacity - rinse one or two. To this, a soul and a cesspool are not needed - there is not enough water in the tank, and no matter who and no matter how they wash, the local ecology will digest such a volley discharge.

Modular showers are designed to be installed directly on the ground. They are supplied with adjustable legs, which, when installed permanently, allows compensating for current soil movements. Modular common areas are more familiar to citizens from public dry closets, but besides them and modular showers, kitchens, shelters, etc. are also produced, so that a full-fledged utility block can be assembled from the modules. Pleasure is by no means cheap, more modules are used to organize the amenities of professional mobile teams. A cesspool is not required, you only need to change the filler of the built-in septic tank in a timely manner.

Frames of soft showers are put on stakes driven into the ground from reinforcing bars. If the frame is made of PP water pipes, then it is assembled using standard connectors, but one size larger, and not by soldering, but by self-tapping screws. The cabin turns out to be collapsible and quite reliable, because. the frame is lightly loaded and absolutely maintainable. Sheathing is most often made of colored tarpaulin: in the heat then the cabin is not so parky, in the cool it is warmer, and the tarpaulin, unlike the film, does not stick nasty to a wet body. Such a design will withstand a 12-point earthquake, if only the earth itself from under the shower has not gone anywhere. A cesspool is needed, so soft showers are not particularly popular: if you dig a hole, then it’s better to make a foundation, and put something more impressive and more attractive on it.

Under plastic

It is possible to build a shower cabin from light, resilient and chemically resistant materials with rigid sheathing (see below) without a foundation, even on very heaving soil. So that it does not overturn, in this case, 30-40 cm of a non-porous pillow is enough. Specifically - sand and gravel bedding in layers of equal thickness. The thickness of the pillow is approximate, in fact, the upper humus layer of the soil is removed to the underlying rock: loam, sandy loam. Summer cottages they don’t stand out on meter-long black soil, so you won’t have to dig very deep, but still - 30 cm, of which 15 is sand and 15 gravel, this is the minimum. Suddenly, after the winter, it still warps, you can move the booth, align the pillow, and put it back as it was.

Note: a plastic shower is attached to the ground with the lower ends of the pipes put on fittings driven into the ground, like a soft shower. But there is a difference - since the structure is permanent, then the stakes are driven into the ground at least 0.35 m below the bottom of the pillow, and it is better, if local conditions allow, to the freezing depth, then seasonal distortions are excluded.

Under the tree

A shower made of wood, in principle, can also be placed simply on a pillow, but double impregnation of wood with a water-polymer emulsion, biocides and then treatment with hot bitumen will protect the support frame and floor from decay for 3-10 years, depending on local conditions. Wood treated in this way can hold strength for 30-40 years, but mold fungi with bacteria will get to where they stand with their feet and rub against bodies much faster. Therefore, a shower cabin made of natural lumber should be raised above the ground by at least 20-25 cm, and for a hygienic cesspool (see below) - by 35-40 cm.

an example of the implementation of the foundation for a country shower room

The means to ensure these requirements has long been known - columnar or pile foundation. For such a light and freely "acting out" wooden structure, for reasons of economy, the second is preferable. There is no need to buy expensive ones, it is better to get by with homemade hammers. Simply - with pipe segments with a diameter of 60-150 mm (if available) with ends flattened into a spear. Further - a sledgehammer or a home-made woman (it is much easier to work with her), and - to the estimated freezing depth for a given area.

Location of piles - 1 per corner and every full or incomplete 1.5 m of the contour. After cutting the protruding ends with a grinder at the hose level, anchor bolts (M12 - M16) are welded to the piles; they are dressed and attracted by nuts with washers 40-60 mm in diameter, the lower support frame - the grillage.

An alternative option, again, depending on the availability of materials, is drilled piles from asbestos-cement pipes. The wells go to the same freezing depth with a hand drill. It is very good if there is a camouflage nozzle for it, with which wells are drilled under the strip-pile foundation on heaving soils. Reinforcing piles and pouring them with concrete are also similar to the indicated case. Asbestos-cement piles are cut in height with a grinder with a stone circle before reinforcement and pouring. Anchor bolts are immured to a depth of 120 mm.

Under the metal

Under the shower on a metal frame, the foundation is made the same as under a wooden one: if the wood rots, then the metal rusts. In this case, piles are preferably driven metal, and a grillage from a channel of 50-80 mm is welded to them.

Under the brick

A brick shower in the country is a rarity, laborious and expensive. But it has a valuable advantage - it is easy to heat it. It is enough to pass the return from the tank to the water heater through the old thin-walled heating radiator(see below), and in a closet with half-brick walls, insulation with 30 mm packaging foam, dimensions 1.2x1.2 m in plan and a ceiling height of 2.2 m at +8 outside in 4-5 hours it will be +22.

Brick buildings are not elastic, heavy, and therefore the foundation for a brick shower needs to be strong and stable. Since the structure in this case is small, the slab monolithic foundation turns out to be optimal in terms of labor intensity and costs. Its device is simple: a whole (mandatory!) reinforced concrete slab 170-300 mm thick and with a 0.3-0.5 m extension beyond the contour of the building, this will be a blind area.

The brand of concrete does not matter much, M150 is enough. Reinforcement - a cage with a mesh (150-200) x (300-400) mm from a 12 mm bar. If it is planned to equip the compact cesspool described below, then it is better to pour the slab on the spot, encircling the recess under the barrel with formwork.

cesspool

As already mentioned, in order to maintain the biochemistry in the sewage pit necessary for the disposal of effluents to a naturally recyclable level of pollution, the moisture content in them must be kept within certain limits. For example, in the instructions for branded fillers for septic tanks, it is clearly indicated: do not fill it, it will turn sour and stink. Do not let it dry out, the microflora will die, and generally stop working.

The fact that the drain from the shower is too liquid for a general cesspool in the country is obvious. But its chemical composition also matters: there is practically no household organic matter, a nutrient medium for beneficial bacteria in the pit. Unless someone will use the shower, like Polygraph Polygraphych Sharikov from " dog heart» toilet. But in excess of alkalis (from soap) and detergents (surfactants, surfactants), from shampoos, gels, etc., which are harmful to them.

Therefore, to reduce drains from the shower and toilet in the country to a common pit is a gross mistake from the point of view of biochemistry. The kitchen can still be combined with the toilet, but the shower must be taken separately to a special pit. In a city apartment, the matter is different: there, until the effluents reach the treatment facilities, everything will mix up and react so much that only the percentage composition of simple connections and elements. In any case, it is impossible to build a sewerage system separate for the bathroom and toilet in the city.

Note: what kind of abominations do researchers not sometimes have to delve into, eh? But it's something necessary and useful.

Here the question arises: so what, take out the extra 2 cubes of soil? Since the septic tank does not recycle the shower drain? And the weaving of land disappears: from the harvest from the vicinity of a simple pit, consumer supervision will screech with a screech when the analysis is done.

Not at all necessary, given the time of heating the water, the maximum frequency of using a country shower resulting from it and the volume of water in the tank (there can be no more one-time flow). That is, we are faced with 2 tasks: the first is to bring the runoff into the soil little by little, so that organic acids from the soil have time to neutralize alkalis and decompose detergents. The second is to bring them into the soil below the fertile layer, so as not to kill the soil microanimal. And organic acids, a product of her vital activity, will seep from above.

Calculations, for a description of which, unfortunately, there is no space here, show that a drain of 100 l / h or 50 l in one gulp (for a country shower for normal users, this, as they say, is above the roof), must be discharged into the ground at a depth of at least in 2 thicknesses of the humus layer. Conclusion: an ordinary 200-liter barrel with a height of 850 mm will help us out. A fertile layer of 40 cm is not a dacha, it is Eldorado. A smaller plastic barrel will do, as long as its volume is not less than a one-time discharge (we take the tank capacity for it), and the height is at least 2 thicknesses of humus.

Note: if you feel sorry for the barrel, the shell of the pit can be made from old tires. Only then will it be necessary to periodically pour bleach into the pit, in the resulting side cavities, with frequent use, the wastewater will stagnate.

From theory to practice

Arrange a compact and cheap cesspool for a shower from a barrel is easy. First, we dig a pit according to the diagram in Fig. to a depth equal to the height of the barrel. The distance from the siphon spout to the neck of the barrel is not critical, the plastic corrugated hose will reach. Then we cut off the bottom and the lid with the neck from the barrel. The bottom is no longer needed, and we cut off a segment from the cover to make an inspection hatch; it needs a tight lid.

We install the barrel in the pit, backfill the soil. Next is the filter. We pour fine crushed stone into the cesspool with a layer of 15-20 cm. In a bucket of water, we shake 1-1.5 kg of any clay to “milk”, and pour the filling evenly with a thin stream until the clay milk covers it. After a day or two, when the water leaves and the clay dries up, we stir up the filtering layer, often piercing it thickly with a pointed armature. It remains to weld the lid, and after the construction of the shower, insert it into the neck and seal the siphon spout with construction foam. You can insert a tee into the neck and feed the drain from the kitchen here, it is more similar in bio- and simple chemistry to a shower than to a toilet.

Note: if construction is underway nearby, and the concrete mixer is free, you can knead porous concrete, from which filters are made when building wells. Then backfill with clay impregnation is not needed - 2-3 buckets of porous batch are simply dumped into the cesspool and leveled.

The smell from such a cesspool is excluded constructively. It is convenient to inspect and, suddenly, need to clean it, and the cost of labor and money is nothing at all; useful area, except for the one under the shower, is not withdrawn from economic use. At the dacha of the author of the article, a shower cesspool from a barrel has been working properly for almost 20 years. I didn’t need to clean it even once (they go to the dacha on weekends and spend their holidays there). The barrel from the inside is overgrown with a dense layer of some chemical compounds but not rusted through. Fruits from plants in the immediate vicinity of the pit were repeatedly submitted for analysis to the sanitation station, which invariably showed their full suitability for food. For the test, they scored a well for water 5 m from the pit - the water turned out to be good.

More about shower with toilet

A shower with a cesspool of this type can be placed in a block with a toilet. For the latter, by the way, if the dacha is summer, it is not at all necessary to make a rather complicated and expensive septic tank, not to mention an antediluvian two-cube pit. You can do without a toilet cesspool at all by arranging a powder closet. More precisely, powder sorter, because. it's a french idea. Sortie in French way out; toilet, respectively - a latrine. Powder closet can only be used in warm time years, but it was the study of the processes in it that led to the invention of dry closets. However, this is again country toilets which require separate analysis.

What will the shower be like?

Now that we know how much work is needed to arrange a shower area, and in what cases we can do without them, it's time to decide - what kind of shower will we do? Or buy? In general, the choice is:

Compact portable shower.
Street extension to the house.
Garden cabin.
Capital shower.
Household complex in the shower.
Shower room in the house.

Compact is not compact

A portable shower does not have to be carried everywhere with you. No one bothers to use it constantly in one place. In the same way, no one bothers to fill the wineskin with hot water, heated on a fire or in a stove, immediately before washing. The only thing that is required additionally is a fence.

Shower enclosures for mobile showers are sold, complete with the actual shower or as an option. But, frankly, the game is not worth the candle - a shower enclosure is easier to make yourself. The simplest but very convenient option- a semicircular guide attached to the wall of the house, see fig., And a curtain. It is not necessary to bend a stainless steel pipe, you can get by with propylene plumbing, put on all the same pins from reinforcing bars. Then the fence will be completely collapsible. It is better to sew a curtain from a colored tarpaulin (preferably also propylene); why - said above.

Cabin on the street

Users of "stationary" showers sooner or later come to the conclusion that the waterskin for water needs to be replaced with a tank: 6-12 liters is not enough for one person, but definitely not enough for a family. Now we have an outdoor shower, and there is a drain problem. Usually it is solved by lowering water down a slope or a gutter into a flower bed, on the basis that the flowers are not eaten. But from the point of view of respect for nature, this is, of course, wrong. And the earth, if the shower is often used, can turn sour, and then the whole flower bed will disappear. Still, it’s better to choose the time, on the lower edge of the sewage slope (usually the blind area of the house) to make a bell-catcher from cement, and bury 40 mm PVC in the ground sewer pipe to the sewer. For the one described above, one 3rd pipe is enough; its slope is needed 4-10 cm / m.

If you want to quickly and easily replace the curtain with something more impressive, then the same arched pipe on the wall will help out. How the simplest one with rigid sheathing is made from a booth with a curtain is schematically shown in fig. Within the simplified blind area of the building, only 60 cm wide, it turns out to be quite comfortable (passages 45 cm each, a semicircular washing room in terms of 60x120 cm) and a completely unpeepable booth. The material of the cladding and fences is any, sufficiently rigid and allowing some bending. Polycarbonate is best; it will be discussed further. In this case, the fence of the labyrinthine entrance can be bent, getting a completely elegant extension.

shower in the garden

However, there is no need to rush to dig and attach: there is another simple option - a garden shower. This is a cabin on a light frame with a soft opaque lining, see fig. Its highlight is that the cabin is put in a new place on each visit, or rearranged once a week. It is enough to carry it 2-3 m away from the previous one, and the local ecology will fully tolerate the increased flow.

Capital

A capital shower differs from a simple cabin not only in that it stands on a foundation; it, as we will see below, may not be. There must be a dressing room in the capital shower room, although exhibitionism in certain circles is now, if not the norm, then certainly fashion. However, when washing, it is not necessary to demonstrate models of swimsuits, coupled with graceful forms or a relief torso, as shown in advertising shots.

Washing completely without clothes is necessary primarily for sanitary and hygienic reasons. The reason is dust in the fabric and scars of clothing. Having become sour, and even in contact with a wet body, it can cause skin diseases just in those places where they are least wanted. According to the rules of field work in countries that make extensive use of seasonal migrant agricultural workers, i.e. unaccustomed to dig in the ground, after the shift, having washed, it is imperative to wear clean underwear. Outerwear can be left working, but underwear - only fresh. In any case, it is uncivilized to be like the ancient nomads, for whom dirt up to a centimeter thick is not yet dirt, and then it falls off on its own.

How a shower with a dressing room should be arranged is shown in fig; dimensions - in cm. A curtain protects clothes from splashes, and a lattice, wooden or made of propylene pipes on self-tapping screws, protects shoes from getting wet, see below. The curtain in this case is more suitable from the film - a tarpaulin that is not blown by the breeze will dry for a long time, and if it is not propylene, but cotton, then it may soak.

Note: for people of average height and build, so that, bending over the dropped soap, not to knock out the door and not break the walls with the fifth point, the size of the washing room in the plan can be reduced to 80x100 cm. Then the entrance, where the curtain hangs, will be a large side.

All in one

The change house in the country does not play the same role as at the construction site and field work. In any case, the cesspool should be carried away from housing as far as the conditions on the site allow. And to have a meal, since you have already fled from the bustle of the city, is more pleasant and useful in the free air. Therefore, a kitchen with a veranda is often included in the composition of a country change house, along with a shower and a toilet.

The limiting, if I may say so, schemes for the arrangement of summer cottages are shown in fig. The left one is the simplest, 1.8 x 1 m, on concrete blocks without a foundation. Toilet - powder closet or bio; the dressing room can be used as a shelter in case of bad weather. Appointment - temporary, for the period of construction of the house.

On the right is a permanent change house. The foundation is slab, see above. Walls - from aerated concrete 75 mm + 12 mm on each side for finishing. The roof is flat sloping slate. As a refuge, if there are a lot of people, a large shower room can also be used; the size of the kitchen allows you to build or put a wood-burning stove. It is built, with the average skill of the master and the presence of an assistant, over the weekend, except for the technological break for the curing of concrete and the time for finishing work.

Note joke: do not rush to build this, otherwise who knows when hands will reach a real house.

In the House

A country shower in a house, since it is in a residential area, must meet all the requirements of sanitation and hygiene. This is a separate topic, some features in relation to the cottage will be discussed later in the course of the presentation.

Floor, tray, grate

Floor

The floor in the country shower is made of wood; capital, as in a big house, is too laborious and expensive. In a cabin with dimensions up to 1.5x1.5 m, if a tongue-and-groove board is taken for flooring, logs are not needed. If the cabin is not square, the deck boards are cut to the size of the short side, so it will be stronger.

So that the tree does not rot from moisture, it, of course, needs to be processed. Nowadays, this can be done without complex and time-consuming operations such as scalding with bitumen, two-layer painting with oil zinc or titanium white, etc. The preparation of boards for the cabin floor is reduced, after sawing to size, to a double treatment with a water-polymer emulsion; the second treatment can be done one hour after the first.

Then - drying. At temperatures above 22 in the shade and drying in direct sunlight, the boards will be ready for further processing in the evening if processed in the morning; at 15 degrees and drying in the shade - by the morning of the next day.

After drying, the wood is impregnated with any wood biocide. It is only necessary to read on the package whether the preparation is intended for impregnation under pressure, this is not suitable. It is desirable to impregnate in the sun in warm weather, allowing the boards to warm up for an hour or two.

After 3-4 hours after impregnation, acrylic varnish can be applied in 2 layers. The first will dry up in the evening, then you can varnish again. The next morning the floor can be laid. So, if you pick a nice day, a floor that lasts at least 10 years can be done in a weekend, and there's still time left.

Pallet

Shower trays, if you don't already know it, are low and high. The first fit into a cutout or recess in the floor, and the second is actually a standing bath: they are installed on legs and are equipped with a screen. Those and others come in sizes from 800x800 to 1580x1580mm, straight and angular, rounded or faceted, as well as round, oval and complex shapes. Manufactured from acrylic or enameled sheet steel. The former are more expensive and more durable; the second is cheaper.

For a cottage with a separate shower on the territory, a straight low shower tray is needed, see the figure on the right. The most popular size and material is steel 1000x1000 mm. Its advantages:

Ease of installation and sealing: a sausage is applied along the contour of the cutout construction foam and then, until it is frozen, lay the pallet; squeezed out excess foam is removed.
Saving wood and work: by making the cabin support frame (see below) the width of the inside to the outer size of the pallet bath, we get rid of the flooring of most of the floor. It is enough to upholster the top of the frame with scraps of boards so that the pallet does not end up in a hole.
Cheapness: with a relatively low intensity of use of a country shower, a steel pallet with careful use will last at least 15 years.
Durability in suburban conditions: acrylic pallets in summer cottages do not withstand the estimated service life, because they are afraid of abrasive wear with sand, from which you can’t get anywhere outside the city.

Note: if the shower is with a dressing room, you can take a pallet 800x1000, see above. If in the country there are people with a corpulence above average, then the best would be a pallet 1200x1200

The country shower room in the house requires an already high pallet. The reason is that the cutout will weaken the floor, unless it is formed according to the full pattern. Yes, and then the mortising and concrete work will take a lot of time and effort, plus beat the channel for the sewer. Suddenly, the house has not yet been built, it is also not necessary to lay a low pallet in a project with a wooden floor: the lag installation step turns out to be too large for flooring of this size.

It is more profitable to purchase a high pallet complete with a cabin and a screen. Then it is better to take a corner shower: a shower corner of the same overall dimensions takes up much less usable space in a small room and is even more convenient than a straight shower.

As for the installation, it is desirable to do it yourself. Firstly, the departure of the master out of town will be too expensive, his day disappears, and in a day he can install up to 3 cabins, if not more. Secondly, the water supply and runoff in the country are almost always non-standard, which will be even more expensive. Therefore, how to install a shower cabin with a high tray yourself, see the video below.

Video: self-assembly and installation of a shower cabin

And the following is about the intricacies of precisely the corners:

In addition, before buying, you will need to familiarize yourself with the company instructions, because. shower installation methods different manufacturers are somewhat different.

Lattice

In the locker room, a grate under your feet is a must so that your shoes do not get wet. In a washing room with a low tray, a grate above it is also highly desirable, because. due to the lack of a threshold, the risk of slipping and crashing when entering the pallet is increased.

Usually the lattice is made of wood from slats from 30x30 to 100x40 boards. The preparation of wood is the same as for the floor, but instead of varnishing, if funds allow, it is desirable to cover the grate with an acrylic compound for repairing bathtubs, then its resistance to wear by shoe soles will increase significantly. Yes, and for the floor, coating with a compound will not be superfluous; in this case, the pallet can not be sealed with foam, the thick mixture will tighten the gap.

The best, and if you take into account the price of varnish, then a cheaper grill is obtained from PP pipes assembled on self-tapping screws. Pipes are needed 1/2 "; installation step - 1.5 outer diameter. The pitch of the crossbars from the same pipe is 300-400 mm. There is a little trick here: after assembling the grate, a little mounting foam is launched into all the gaping ends so that the grate inside does not sour from dampness.

Tank

The shower tank in the country house must be equipped with a sanitary drain with a shut-off valve, indicated in brown in fig. It is placed at the lowest point of the vessel, and the source is made flush with the bottom. Before a long break in use (at least for a week), the tank is completely emptied through the drain. It is advisable to regularly, with the same frequency, drain the sludge and with constant use. Please note that in the country the probability of getting spores and eggs of unwanted microorganisms into the tank is several times higher - orders of magnitude higher than in a city apartment. The author knows the case when in the shower tank were found ... crucian piglets. They apparently fed on the larvae of mosquitoes, which swarmed there.

The second condition is that the selective pipe must be placed higher so that clean water splashes from the watering can, and not sediment. Finally, if there is water heating in the tank, its thermosiphon circulation must also occur, otherwise most of the heater power will go to waste. That is, the hot water inlet should be as high as possible.

If the tank is powered from the water supply, then it needs a float valve and an overflow with a cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200bat least 2 of those of the supply pipe. Sufficient clearance is needed above the float so that it does not rest against the tank lid, without locking the water supply to the end. For such a case, a tank diagram with recommended dimensions is shown on the left in fig.

For a tank filled manually, the layout of the pipes changes, because. the water level in it decreases during use. Its diagram is shown on the right in Fig. An indispensable condition is that the hot water supply should be located at least a little (5-7 mm at least) above the source of selection, and the mouth of the supply pipe should be moved away from the source of the outlet; selective is located approximately in the middle between them. It is advisable to drain the sludge from such a tank immediately after each emptying so that the sediment does not clog the water heater.

What is he from?

Ready-made tanks for showers of different sizes, containers fully equipped with fittings, are commercially available in a wide range. But, since our task is to implement everything entirely with our own hands, then we will see how to make the tank ourselves.

The most common tanks of country showers are made from barrels laid on their side; then it is convenient to place a drainage system, and the flow of water into the sludge becomes minimal. In this case, a wide filling and inspection hatch is cut out in a 200-liter steel barrel and through it, after welding the nozzles, the yacht container is painted from the inside. acrylic enamel or the same bath repair compound. Outdated long way- primed with a rust primer and painted with iron minium in oil.

Plastic barrels do not require preparation from the inside, but the problem of sealing the joints arises: almost nothing sticks to polyethylene and polypropylene, and to connect by soldering, as water pipes, it is forbidden. Fortunately, plastic barrels are produced with wide necks, through which it is possible to install M12-M16 threaded fittings with a flange and a rubber gasket, and outside - also with a gasket and a washer; everything is tightened with a nut. So that the pipe does not turn out with thermal deformations, the diameter of the flange and washer must be from 3 outer diameters of the fitting, but not less than 40 mm.

Note: an alternative method - sealing with silicone - does not justify itself, for season 2-3 the joints leak.

About the tank from the old washer

It's no secret that many country showers have tanks from unusable old ones. washing machines. Their capacity is small, for 2-3 washings hastily, but otherwise they are very good: they do not rust, drainage is automatically obtained from the previous drain pipe, and the input-output of the rest is easy to carry out through the opening for the activator, there is already a stamping for the gasket and holes for fasteners. By covering such a tank with glass on silicone (preferably acrylic), we get effective solar water heating (see below), because, repeatedly reflected from the internal shiny walls, the solar radiation is almost completely absorbed by water.

Cabin

Grillage

The cabin support frame is most often made of wood; in the conditions of suburban operation, it loses strength more slowly than a thin-walled (1.5-2.5 mm) metal profile. The channel, of course, will last longer, but it will cost more. It is more suitable for welded structures, see above.

As for wood, a 100x100 or even 60x60 timber is suitable for a light cabin, and 150x150 for capital showers. Wood processing is generally the same as for the floor, only instead of varnishing it is impregnated twice or thrice with heated bituminous mastic. In combination with a water-polymer emulsion, this will provide a durability of at least 12 years; WPE, penetrating deeply into the pores of wood, makes them unsuitable for the germination of mold spores.

How high?

The rise of the grillage above the ground, and the corresponding protrusion of the foundation piles, is calculated as the sum of 200-250 mm for ventilation, plus the depth of the pallet tub, plus the technological height of the siphon and another 50-70 mm of stock. So, for a low pallet, this will be 320-450 mm, i.e. need 2-3 more steps at the entrance.

frame

wooden shower they are assembled, as well as - on load-bearing poles, only the problems of the roof disappear: it either does not exist at all, or it is simply sloping. The frames of the walls are reinforced with diagonal braces, one per side, from a 100x40 board or its own, spread in half lengthwise, i.e. 50x40, and installed flat. The latter option saves material, but takes up space inside the cab.

On the metal carcass usually there is a professional pipe from 25x25x1.5 to 40x40x2. Gather profile frame for welding, primed and painted. Thin-walled galvanized profiles are cheaper and easier to assemble - on self-tapping screws - but they do not last long, this material is not intended for outdoor use at all.

The best material for a shower frame is 1/2″ and 3/4″ polypropylene water pipes. The assembly scheme is the same as for wood: frame and diagonal. In this case, it is not required to solder the plastic, it is enough to select standard connectors so that the pipe enters them more tightly, and assemble them on self-tapping screws. In the shower, phosphated (black) ones hold better. Self-tapping screws diameter - 4.2 mm; length - 1-1.5 mm shorter than the outer diameter of the connector, so that the tip does not protrude and scratch.

sheathing

In general, any sheet metal is suitable for shower cladding. Decoration Materials outdoor use: corrugated board, plastic lining, siding, polycarbonate, top row in pic; they can be attached to any frame either with standard fasteners, or, if the frame is propylene, with brackets and clamps.

Of all the sheathing materials, polycarbonate stands out. Its main advantage is a self-heating shower made of polycarbonate. Features of the interaction of cellular polycarbonate with sunlight are such that an increased energy density of infrared (thermal, IR) radiation is created inside the cabin. Simply put, a kind of warm cocoon appears, even if the shower is without a roof and with a wide ventilation gap at the bottom. Cellular polycarbonate was originally developed to cover greenhouses and greenhouses.

The shower cabin is sheathed on all sides, cramped, i.e. the area of its glazing is large relative to the volume, and tomatoes are not grown in it in winter. Therefore, the cheapest sheet of the 2R structure with a thickness of 4 mm from the most alternative manufacturer is suitable for shower sheathing. You should not be afraid of peeping: especially for showers, milky, non-translucent, polycarbonate is produced.

Second important factor – honeycomb sheet, if it is oriented vertically by internal channels and bent, it acquires the properties of a prestressed structure (PNC): high strength and rigidity. That is, a very strong and light round cabin can be made on a frame from only 2 hoops, upper and lower, bent from PP pipe. The hoops will also be prestressed and add a lot of overall strength.

Finally, by tightly winding the sheet to the curvilinear template and heating for 20-30 hours to 70-80 degrees, the bend of the sheet can be fixed. This technique is often used by designers; in particular also for original frameless showers, see fig. on right.

The good old wood, pre-treated, as well as for the floor, and even raw, at least in the form of wattle, is also widely used for showers, the bottom row in fig. above. Its advantages are accessibility, ease of processing, and for capital showers under the roof - wood holds heat well. Heat loss through wood paneling from a forty board less than through a brick to half a brick.

Note: use laminated and modified panels for shower cladding wood materials- plywood, fiberboard, chipboard, MDF - undesirable, delaminate.

fittings

A garden garden shower is distinguished from an ordinary shower primarily by a shower head (spout, diffuser): its design includes a control valve, see fig. If there is hot water separately in the country house, then this one is not suitable - diffusers with a regular two-way valve are not on sale. However, it is easy to make a watering can with a valve yourself, it does not have any fundamental features. Other shut-off valves - any ordinary one, but pipelines are easier and cheaper to make flexible, from a reinforced garden hose.

Heating and heating

Now let's finally figure out what a warm shower is. In capital showers, as mentioned above, heating the washing room will ensure that the return flow from the tank to the water heater passes through the heating register, see fig. For constant heating of residential premises, this scheme is utter heresy, but in the soul it is quite efficient without loss of overall efficiency.

The cheapest and fastest water heating is provided by a flow-through gas boiler low power or, if bottled gas, an electric boiler. We will leave one and the other, because. it is impossible to make them in accordance with safety requirements outside of industrial conditions: a heating element with grounding is only a base, automatic temperature control is also needed, emergency from boiling up, emptying, overheating of the heating element due to scale buildup or sedimentation, and some other necessary little things.

Without heat exchanger

The easiest way, than from time immemorial and used by summer residents, is to heat water with the Sun. But the well-known bitumen-drenched tank is not the best solution; the fact is that bitumen or simple black (not selective) paint is black only in visible light, and IR reflects well.

2 ways of primitive solar water heating are shown in fig. on right. The first (left pos.) uses the fact that water itself actively absorbs IR and ultraviolet (UV). The latter carries a lot of energy, but you need a well-transmitting UV tank, i.e. expensive acrylic. In the other, on the right pos. the own heat capacity of the hose is used: when the water flows, it gives it the accumulated heat, so it is possible to get more warm water than it was originally in the volume of the pipe.

With register and pot

Direct heating of water is bad because it depends on the weather and the time of year: clouds have come running - the water is cold, and you can get hot only in the very heat, when a little warm is enough. For good water heating, not only in warm weather and not only in clear weather, a shower water heater must, firstly, somehow collect solar radiation, the energy density of which is relatively low, and transfer it to water, the heat capacity of which is relatively large. An indispensable condition in order to “sew” these requirements is thermosyphon or forced circulation of water in the system, i.e. a heat exchanger is needed, and how to heat it is a second matter.

A simple heat exchange register is a coil (on the left in the figure) or a U-shaped elbow made of copper or aluminum thin-walled tube. It can be laid flat with an inclination, in the middle there; then the hot side must be raised above the cold side by at least the value of the internal diameter of the tube, otherwise internal convection may develop, boiling up and bursting even with a relatively small influx of energy.

In some cases, it is more convenient to have a heat exchanger in the form of a sealed vessel, on the right in Fig. The principle of "theromosiphonism" is observed here by the fact that the outlet (hot) pipe is located as high as possible above the cold one. In this case, sealing is needed complete, without the slightest leak!

From the stove

The hot water register can be built into a country heating and cooking stove, but this is already a question of how the stoves are arranged, and by and large, where the hot water goes then, the stove doesn’t care. A solar oven looks much more interesting in terms of heating water for a shower. In our latitudes for cooking, it is not very suitable, but the shower will provide hot water and the simplest (see Fig.) In the spring and autumn in cloudy weather.

The pattern of such a stove is shown on the next. rice. Material - any foil, even cardboard. Please note that the reflector is certainly metal, it reflects the entire spectrum of radiation, and household mirrors only the visible part. For IR, clouds are much more transparent, while UV carries a lot of energy even in small quantities.

Scheme of a stationary solar oven more complicated, but much more effective, is shown on the next. rice. The reflector is assembled from pieces (you can cut off) galvanized on silicone. Fragments of the reflector are installed one by one, adjusting (adjusting) so that the light spot lies on the bottom of the heated vessel; already installed and adjusted mirrors are still covered with something. For this furnace and the heat exchanger described before it, a compact one is required; it is placed instead of cooking utensils.

Panels

Solar panels are not that complicated and do not require any alignment. These are, in fact, blackened from the inside and glazed flat boxes or other containers in which a strong greenhouse effect is created; a coil is installed inside such a mini-greenhouse, the diagram on the left in fig. Modern solar panels use truly space technologies, and some models in winter on a cloudy day at -20 outside give water to the system at a temperature of +70.

We do not need such super-efficiency, it is enough for us to heat 50-100 liters of water from +15 to +40 in 2-4 hours. The most unpretentious design, like those shown on the trail, will also cope with this task. poses of the same fig. And in fig. below (on the top position - with an installation diagram and a use case for heating a house) - drawings of home-made solar panels, in terms of efficiency comparable to individual industrial designs. The first panel is completely homemade; heat exchanger soldered from copper tube. In the one below, a radiator from an old unusable refrigerator went to him; the dimensions of the box are adjusted to the cash.

And in the dark?

If the kitchen in the country is gasified, anyway, from a mains or a cylinder, then you can heat water for a shower for nothing at any time of the year, in any weather, day or night. How? Due to waste heat (in essence, own heat loss) of a gas stove. To do this, the burners are circled with a copper coil from a 6-10 mm tube, as shown in Fig; This method was invented back in Stalin's times, when the people heard that somewhere up there, at the top, a curiosity appeared - hot water in the tap.

To give a slope to the heat exchanger, segments are wound on its hot tube soft wire, and their whiskers are used either as legs or as hooks. Remember: the heating is intense, without tilting the coil boils and bursts instantly! It is also necessary to withstand other dimensions so as not to burn or dry out the flexible hoses connecting the coil to the tank. What else needs to be remembered is that the slope of the hot tube should be greater than the cold one, and the coil heats up well only if the burning burners are occupied by cooking utensils. That is, it makes no sense to burn gas idly, you need to heat water during cooking. As a rule, in an hour of cooking dinner, a 50-liter tank heats up to 40-45 degrees.

Finally

Finally, let's mention one curiosity - a supposedly hydromassage shower. On fig. the simplest model is shown on the right (the price, by the way, is not unpretentious - about 300 euros), but installations are produced with 6 and even 10 diffusers, loudly referred to as nozzles in advertising brochures.

Such scents are only a tribute to fashion, if not inventions of marketers of the consumer society; simply a split. For a real hydromassage, it is necessary to reduce muscle tone in conditions of hydroweightlessness, which cannot be without a bath with water.