Steam device. Do-it-yourself steam room - how to provide yourself with "light steam"? Video: how to install floor beams, make insulation and provide a drain in the bath

Agree, it is very convenient to have a mini-steam room right in your house or in the country, and not just on personal plot? The ability to take bath procedures at any time of the day or night, reducing energy costs, quick warm-up - this is only a small part of the benefits compact bath before traditional. But most importantly, it is much easier to equip it with your own hands. If you are thinking more and more about a mini-steam room, to your attention stepwise technology its constructions with detailed photos and useful videos.

Steam room project and assembly

The first stage of the device mini-steam room in the house or in the country - drawing up a project. It will save you from mistakes at all subsequent stages of construction. The project must contain:

• general drawing of the steam room;
• frame dimensions;
• location and wiring diagram heater and ventilation;
• internal filling of the steam room.

Determine the size of the mini steam room at your discretion: depending on your needs and the available space. Practice shows that the optimal dimensions for a home bath are 2x2 or 2x1.6 m. As for the location, most often the steam room is equipped in the bathroom, since all the necessary communications are already there. Although, if square meters allow, you can allocate a loggia or even a separate room for it.

Steam room in the bathroom

The second stage is the installation of a steam room:

1. Pour the floating concrete floor into the marked work area.
2. Assemble the frame of the bath from vertical bars. Install the elements in increments of 60 cm and fix them with self-tapping screws and corners.
3. Install a door between a pair of bars: a compartment, a canvas on hinges or Velcro, a structure - everything that the budget and imagination allow.
4. Lay on concrete floor ceramic tiles. Subsequently, it will need to be closed with wooden bars.
5. Sheathe the frame with outside wooden panels. It can be boards made of coniferous or hardwood, or. Install the panels horizontally and fasten to the frame with screws and dowels.

Advice. To prevent the penetration of moisture into the casing, mount wooden panels with little overlap.

Wall insulation

Advice. It is better to refuse foamed polymers - they are very flammable, therefore, at high temperatures, they can not only begin to decompose or emit an unpleasant odor, but also catch fire.

The recommended layer of mineral wool is at least 5 cm. It is laid on the inside of the frame between the bars. But pre-wooden cladding sheets are covered with aluminum foil - it will serve as an intermediate layer between thermal insulation and outer skin and protect the wood from condensation.

Mineral wool is overlapped on the foil. A layer of waterproofing is again arranged on top of the insulation - aluminum foil can also be used here. In this case, the reflective layer of the material should not be directed towards the mineral wool, but towards the steam room. The foil should be fixed with a construction stapler on frame bars. And between themselves, the sheets of the waterproofing must be connected with adhesive tape.

After laying the thermal insulation, sew up the walls of the mini-steam room from the inside. You can use the same wood materials as for the exterior walls.

Electric oven for mini-bath

Heating and ventilation

To heat a mini-steam room in the house, it is easiest to use an electric heater stove. Its power is calculated according to a simple scheme: 1.5 kW per 1 sq.m. area. That is, for a home bath 2x2 m, a device with a power of 4-6 kW will suffice. It can even be connected to a standard single-phase power supply.

The electric furnace is located either on the wall or on the floor, but always near the door - this is necessary so that the coming from outside cold air immediately captured and warmed up by hot air currents. The stove is equipped with a compartment for stones - when poured with water, they form steam, which increases the humidity in the mini-steam room.

Also, the electric furnace is equipped with a thermostat, thanks to which the required comfortable temperature is maintained in the steam room.

Another mandatory stage in the arrangement of a mini-bath in the house is the organization of ventilation:

1. At the bottom of the floor near the stove in one of the walls of the steam room, make an air inlet.
2. Make an exhaust hole as far as possible from the air inlet and from the door in the wall.

Both openings must lead to the same room, which, in turn, must have a ventilation exhaust duct facing the street. An electric fan should be installed in the hood.

Interior arrangement

Finally, the final stage of creating a mini-steam room is its internal filling. For the convenience of using the bath you will need:

• benches;
• footrests;
• headrests;
• shelves.

To finish the steam room, it is better to choose natural wood.

This minimum set, which, with the correct calculation of dimensions, will fit perfectly in a mini-steam room. In order not to miscalculate with the dimensions, all filling elements must be included in the drawing at the stage of creating the steam room project.

All bath components must be made of wood that does not contain resin and is characterized by low thermal conductivity: linden, spruce, aspen. You can make benches and shelves with your own hands, but it is better to buy footrests and headrests in special stores.

Also an important component of filling a mini-steam room is lighting fixtures. It should be only heat and moisture resistant lamps. To ensure safety, switches must be placed exclusively on the outside of the bath.

Thus, a mini-steam room in a private house or in the country is not at all a hard-to-reach exotic, but a completely feasible idea. For its successful implementation, you need to think through every moment: design, size, decoration, heating, ventilation, interior design - paying maximum attention to each of these moments, you will get a functional and comfortable mini-bath that will give you a lot of pleasant moments.

Steam room in the house: video

Mini steam room in the house: photo

The heart of the bath is the steam room. And therefore, one of the main questions: how to make a steam room according to all the rules, not to make a mistake anywhere, and subsequently enjoy the work done.

The steam room is the most important place in your bath.

The pleasure that you and your guests will receive from bath procedures directly depends on the correct construction and arrangement of the steam room. But it’s not enough just to build, criteria such as safety, a presentable appearance of the bath, as well as how much it will cost to build it with your own hands and subsequent maintenance are important here.

That is why, more and more often, owners of private houses who want to build a bathhouse on their site prefer to do all the work on their own. Moreover, building a bathhouse, as well as equipping a steam room, is actually not at all difficult: the layout is the simplest - a stove and shelves, and having carpentry skills to do such work is a pleasure.

In addition, our instructions will help you build and fully equip the bath if you decide to do it yourself.

The first step is to create a project.

Drafting a steam room is perhaps the most simple work. The main thing is to push off from the stove, which is the central link, both in the bath and in the sauna. When choosing a sauna stove, one should take into account the dimensions of the room, ventilation features, and the remoteness of the shelves. Well, the size calculation should be done based on how many people will bathe in it at the same time.

You have taken into account the number of people, and now you should calculate the area before building a room. The optimal, standard footage is 2 X 2.4 meters wide plus 2.2 meters high. A room with such dimensions will allow everyone who takes bath procedures to feel free enough, and not to heat the excess space for nothing.

If you are thinking about windows in the steam room, then their presence is not necessary at all. Artificial light in such a room is optimal. If the window in the bath is a prerequisite for you, then take care of complete thermal insulation. The size of the hole should not exceed 50 X 50 cm, it is best to install a modern heat pack, correct installation which will reliably protect the room from cold air.

Next step: insulate the steam room.

Now the next thing to do is to correctly sheathe the inner surface. The task is important and painstaking, since the possibility of much lower fuel costs, as well as the pleasure from the bath procedures themselves, depends on professionally performed work.

According to the standards, the ceiling should be insulated first, and the walls with the floor - the next stage. Between the first and second floors, for overlapping, a new board of 40 cm, laid end-to-end, is ideal. Next to be done good vapor barrier and lay the insulation between the beams by 10 cm. A stretched fishing line will hold it while you are doing the installation.

The walls in the steam room or sauna are insulated as follows: a structure is created and fastened from embedded boards 5x5 cm, then a vapor barrier is laid, a layer of insulation with foil (5 cm). At the joints, glue with aluminum tape. Serves as a heater mineral wool or special mats that are easy to lay on your own - these materials are ideal for a bath.

Finishing the steam room: not only aesthetics, but also quality.

The installation of the lining should be done as follows: first, the bases are nailed under the benches, shelves, and then the lining is already attached. What about finishing material, then conifers are mainly used here. They will give the bathing spirit a pleasant, rich, healing aroma.

Boards from deciduous tree provide the sauna with reliable tightness with vapor barrier. Here the choice is for those who are going to build a bath with their own hands. The main thing is not to use both types of wood.

Same way important factor- the thickness of the walls in the steam room should be greater than in other rooms of the bath.
We install benches, shelves and an oven.

The interior arrangement of your steam room or sauna is perhaps the most enjoyable part of the job. Shelves and benches should be made from well-dried boards that will not emit resin when heated, and will not leave sweat marks on themselves. Aspen is considered an ideal material because it is inexpensive, easy to work with, and is renowned for its softness and strength.

To save space, it is recommended to mount the benches not to the floor, but to the wall. There is good exit if there is very little space, equip the seats in the same way as in train cars: the lower one is on skids, and the upper one is on a fixed lifting mechanism.

The main factor determining the quality of the bench and shelves for the bath is maximum convenience, comfort. Therefore, it is very important to correctly approach both the choice of material for them, and proper processing boards, as well as to install finished product. The final processing of the boards is best done by hand, and not on the machine.

When choosing a stove for a steam room, you should choose the type that best suits you. You can build a furnace yourself, or you can purchase a ready-made unit. Brick, metal, electric - each of these stoves has its pros and cons, and all this must be taken into account when you build a bath.

IN Lately soapstone or soapstone stoves are gaining more and more popularity. Such material provides uniform heating and special softness of the generated heat in the bath.

Building a stove with your own hands can seem like a rather time-consuming task, so convenient ready-made stoves are increasingly being used.

The right place to install the stove in the sauna is the corner closest to the door. Thus, uniform heating of the room is ensured at the same time as safety.

It is important to install the stove relative to the bench as correctly as possible: not too close so as not to get burned, and not too far away so that there is enough heat.

Installing the door: the final stage.

While we are building our bathhouse, we are learning a lot that was previously incomprehensible. Now everything is ready, the sauna is finished Finishing work with their own hands, and the last thing left is to install the door. It is very important to avoid subsequent heat loss and isolate vacationers from drafts, so it is recommended to make an overestimated threshold and an underestimated door frame.

Since the door in the bathhouse, steam room and sauna has a specific task - to let people in, but not to let in the cold, then the requirements for it are special. It is better to make the door small, not higher than average human height, and also to place it close to the stove, but at a sufficient distance so that the incoming person does not get burned. It is also important that the benches are close to the door. Additional insulation of the door leaf is also important, but the choice of materials depends on the desire of the owner.

That's all you need to know when you do the installation and decoration with your own hands. The work is not difficult, besides building for yourself is a pleasure. The main thing is to do everything right and not to miss a single detail, and then each bathing procedure will bring indescribable pleasure and health to the whole body.

If there is a steam room on the site, then it immediately becomes more comfortable. You don't have to go anywhere to get steamed. You can gather with friends, or you can organize a wonderful sauna day with your family.

But in order for the steam room to really be comfortable and safe, it needs to be properly made and equipped.

How to make a steam room with your own hands

It is necessary to build a bath so that it has at least two rooms. One for the steam room, and the other for the rest room. If space and finances allow, you can make another shower and a small pool.

The construction of a steam room with your own hands in the bath is carried out on a shallow strip foundation. If there is a pool and a shower in it, a drain for water must be arranged, in the form cesspool. Drain, it is desirable to equip in the steam room, so it will be easier to clean it. To do this, when constructing the floor, it is necessary to provide a drain hole and a pipe that will drain water outside the building.

And you can, at the stage of building the foundation, dig into the ground iron barrel filled with stones. The walls of the barrel must be pierced with a chisel and put into it drain pipe. This is enough to drain the water from the steam room, and from the shower, and from the pool.

Do-it-yourself steam room device

The main attribute in this room is the stove. Without a good stove, you won't be able to steam well, even if everything else is equipped in the best possible way.

To equip the furnace, you can buy a finished structure, or you can make it yourself from sheet iron or from a pipe. First you need to determine where the stove will be located, and how it will be heated. From inside or outside.

If you live in a warm climate and will use the steam room during the warm season, it is recommended that it be heated outside. This will get rid of debris in the room. If the bath will be used all year round, then it is better to arrange the steam room in such a way that the stove is heated from the inside.

In addition, you can build a gazebo with a barbecue with your own hands. Such a building will give comfort to your site and the opportunity to sit with friends on summer evenings. you can read helpful tips and recommendations for its construction.

DIY steam room video

Hello, dear site visitors! We continue the series of articles from our readers In this article, the author shares personal experience for the construction of a log bath with their own hands. Construction is not finished yet, so we wish him success! If you have recommendations and questions for the author, you are welcome in the comments.

Part 1. Foundation

For the construction of the bath, I chose a relatively flat area with a slope of 20 cm on a six-meter segment. First of all, after preliminary marking, he made a cut of the fertile layer over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future foundation. This is required to prevent decay processes. plant residues and other organics in the basement.

The site is dominated by sandy soil, so the best option would be a height of 50 cm from the base and a width of 40 cm. The outline of the foundation is marked with ropes that are attached to improvised corners of the inner and outer perimeter. To mark the perimeter, I took cuttings of boards about 70 cm long and drove them into the ground, screwed horizontal shelves with protruding screws for attaching the rope from above with self-tapping screws. It is better to choose a rope that is not prone to stretching, it will be easier to work with this.

In addition to the lengths of the sides of the future foundation, the diagonals between the corners must be verified, which must be equal to each other with a tolerance of plus / minus 3-4 cm. You can read more about how to mark the foundation in this article. We continue to remove the fertile layer and dig a trench to create a sand cushion.

As a result, we get a fully prepared "pit", where the bottom of the trenches is almost horizontal (we verify building level). The depth of the trenches is 20 cm, from the soil level at the highest point of the site 40 cm, at the lowest - 30 cm.

The dimensions of the foundation are determined by the center of the intersection of the logs of the log house. This will be the center line. If the diameter of the logs is about 20-22 cm, then we retreat on both sides of the center line, respectively, by 15-20 cm. This will be required to obtain "shelves" for attaching floor logs and rain tides. In addition, the error is practically eliminated when the logs, due to miscalculations of the foundation, fall outward or inward “hanging” in the air.

FROM strip foundation baths are connected to exclude multidirectional shifts of the bath and oven. The size of the furnace platform is selected 120 * 120 cm, as an average for installation metal furnaces under brick lining.

We start laying sand in the trenches. At the same time, we moisten and compact the sand. We pour water until puddles appear, after the moisture is absorbed, we begin to tamp. The process is repeated 3-4 times until your shoes leave no marks on the compacted surface of the sand.

A day later, after the completion of work, we once again pass the entire base under the foundation with a rammer. Of course, you can use a simpler option and connect a tamping machine to work, this will not speed up the process much. I have the simplest option: a beam of 100 mm, a sole of 20x20 mm and a handle. The appearance of the finished base and manual tamper is shown below.

On top of the prepared site under the foundation, we pour a sand cushion to level the horizon and raise the site above the level of the site in order to prevent water from entering under the foundation.

If you hire a concrete truck, then take care of additional strengthening of the formwork with diagonal stops outside and inside the proposed foundation. The pressure that is created when the mixture is supplied can demolish an insufficiently strong structure. The same applies to pouring the mixture from a concrete mixer. Only in this case, you need to strengthen the place where you will drain or simply move the concrete mixer around the perimeter.

It is better to pour the entire volume of concrete at one time, so as not to get the effect of a layered cake. We cover the top of the foundation with a film that keeps our foundation moist in order to avoid cracks in the concrete. The foundation is periodically watered with water, not allowing it to dry out.

After 7-10 days, we remove the formwork, unscrewing the self-tapping screws, which will also go into work at subsequent stages. The finished foundation looks like this. Layout: 2x6 meters - veranda; 4x4 meters - rest room; 2x2 meters - washing room; 2x2 meters - steam room. The location of the ventilation holes is approximately 20 cm from the ground level, if necessary, you can buy plugs to close the holes in the winter.

The approximate quantity and price of materials used in the construction of the foundation are shown in the table below.

Part 2. Installation of a log house and a roof

For dressing a log house 6x4 meters and a chopped veranda, you will need 25 bags of moss. When buying, make sure that the weight of a bag of compacted moss is approximately 20 kg. Moss must be elastic, that is, have optimal moisture content.

We use the "cuckoo flax", which we collect late autumn when all living creatures go to “wintering” in the soil and there is no risk of grabbing a snake with a bunch of moss. A small amount of sphagnum moss is allowed, which is shorter and crumbles when dry. If only sphagnum is fully used, then after a while it will simply fall out of the grooves.

The length of the strands of moss should be at least 30 cm, so that when caulking it is possible to twist the ends and ensure the sealing of the grooves. When drying, we sort the material, choosing twigs, foreign plants and cones from it. By the way, if the bump falls into the groove, then at a certain humidity it opens with such an effort that is enough to lift the log and arrange a “cold bridge”. This is how log house installers did in the old days, and even now this situation is not uncommon if the owner “offends” with money.

We install rolling logs. I have a small gap between the foundation and the log house, so I used half a log on one side and a 100 mm beam on the other.

We punch the place of contact of the log with the roofing material with moss.

Errors were revealed that caused the unwillingness of the cutters to do their work efficiently. The grooves were cut with a chainsaw, which made the gaps in the logs very large. Look, the edges of the grooves fit snugly against the body of the log, but in fact there is a void inside. Because of this, the amount of moss that will go to the caulk increases greatly. And this is if you do the caulking yourself, and the "shabashniks" only do the external processing, no one will break through the insides.

Material	Volume/quantity	Price
Edged fence board "inch" on the crate, 300 mm	1 m 3	4500 rubles
Wood screws 50 mm	2 kg	300 rubles
Moss	25 bags	6250 rubles
log cabin	1 piece	72000 rubles
Board 50 * 150 six meters	14 pieces	3600 rubles
Metal tile, thickness 0.5 mm, length 4.2 meters (additional ridge and wind protection)	12 sheets	31000 rubles
Steam-Wind-insulation	1 roll	800 rubles
Grooved board 20 mm	1 m 3	8500 rubles
"Belinka" base	2.5 liters	400 rubles
"Belinka" glazing composition	2.5 liters	600 rubles
Total:		127950 rubles

Part 3

The most simple, but tedious work on caulking a log house. We use a mallet, iron and wooden caulk. An iron one with a blade thickness of 3 mm and a width of 50 mm, a wooden one is made of hardwood (I have dry birch) and is a consumable.

The original view of the groove.

We fill the moss into the groove with a construction trowel. Previously used a spatula, but it quickly failed and was not as elastic. Feel free to hammer the groove completely. There is an opinion among the inhabitants that there is no need to make the seams dense and uniform, they say, the temperature in the bath is enough to compensate for the losses. But judge for yourself, drafts in the steam room and washing room will not add comfort and firewood consumption will be 2-3 times higher.

We hammer the resulting roller with a wooden caulk.

If necessary, if the groove is not tight enough, we make another roller of moss and punch it until we feel the hardness of the wood when struck with an iron caulk.

The final view of the caulked groove.

To prevent birds from dragging moss and for aesthetics, we close the groove with a 100 mm wide jute tape, which will subsequently be treated with impregnation and glazing composition to match the color of the log. Special "craftsmen" put logs on only one jute or linen, but this is unacceptable for a bath. If we have constant humidity in the house, then vaporization is welcome in the bath. Flax and jute absorb moisture, but do not dry out for a long time, the grooves rot and become moldy.

We get logs prepared for grinding.

We especially carefully caulk the corners to prevent cold air from entering the bathhouse. Work, if you do not hire specialists, will cost nothing. When attracting "shabashniki" - from 70 to 150 rubles per linear meter.

Part 4. Sanding logs

So, the caulking is completed, the moss is filled and compacted in the grooves, we proceed to prepare the log house for painting. At present, the logs look very unpresentable - traces of a planer, chips and pulled out wood chips. In addition, the logs are strongly "tanned" in the sun and under the influence of slanting rains, and some of the knots require sampling and sealing with mastic.

The ends of logs that were damaged during storage and transportation also require processing. Here the most loose wood, respectively, a high probability of decay and further destruction of the log.

Logging tools:

• Bulgarian;
• petal emery wheel;
• soft brush from a mop;
• putty knife.

Bulgarian used the cheapest - 1200 rubles, made in China. It is worth noting that it withstood all the tests with honor and remained operational even after passing 70 square meters of walls (we add to this the semicircular profile of the log). The only inconvenience is cleaning the stator, rotor and the inside of the grinder from wood dust. Of course, you can put a stocking on the instrument, but the incoming air is not enough for cooling. By the way, the work is very dusty and immediately stock up on glasses, closed on all sides, and respiratory protection equipment - a respirator is enough. Working with a grinder requires utmost attention. High speeds and a removed protection cover can play a trick on you. One has only to lose vigilance, intercept too quickly to the grinding wheel, and you are guaranteed an injury. I twice went through the same place on my arm - the glove to shreds and the skin torn to the meat.

The grinding wheel was used with grain 80. Through testing and selection, I settled on this value - grain 60 leaves too noticeable marks, and grain 100 clogs very quickly. The approximate consumption of petal circles is 1 piece per 3 square meters. You can use the circle further, but the pace of work slows down, and you just get tired.

Attention bonus! I accidentally found that if you walk around the concrete of the foundation with a circle clogged with dust and tar, then sandpaper cleared and the circle is ready for work again.

With no skill and when working with all caution, you can sand 6-10 squares of a wall in a day. The prices of "shabashnikov" fluctuate between 400-500 rubles per square, and plus they do not stand on ceremony with consumables. Pay attention to resin pockets. If you expose such an area, then treat it with a solvent, otherwise this resin will then come out even through a layer of paint.

I started working from the smallest wall, the logs are changing before our eyes. Faced with the problem that when processing grooves, the edge of the grinding wheel leaves cuts on the lower log. But with further processing, the cuts grind well, and no traces remain.

Especially a lot of fuss with the corners, the high speed of the grinder and tightness slow down the process. Where the circle does not reach, you will have to switch to a slower processing method - a chisel.

When grinding wheel practically "sat down", we pass the ends of the logs. It is irrational to use a new circle for the ends - you will have to throw it out after a dozen logs.

We seal the ends with mastic on wood. At first I used the color "pine", but then I realized that it was more economical to use White color, as it will be painted under it.

After grinding, an interesting structure of the tree appears, intricate patterns run throughout the log. The knots and irregularities of the log add a certain fundamentality to the log bath, and I was even glad when there were especially knotty specimens.

To get an idea of ​​how the wall would look after painting, I stopped and prepared the logs. According to all the aggregate features (quality and price), I chose the composition under the Belinka brand. Pre-treated with Base, the drying time of which is 24 hours, and passed over the polished surface with the first layer of glazing composition No. 24 (rosewood). Agree, enchanting beauty! If you want to get a surface that is smooth to the touch, then after the first layer of the composition and its drying, go over the log manually with a “zero” sandpaper. This is true on the railings and on the front of the bath, where guests love to run their hands along the wall and appreciate the work of the master.

The drying time of the first layer is 12 hours, to be sure, I survived the day and covered with a second layer. A dark noble matte sheen appeared. Another trick - after using the glazing composition, a little pigment remains at the bottom of the jar. We dilute it with a solvent to a very pale appearance and pass through the second layer of the dried coating. You can do the procedure at any time after the coating. As a result, we get a surface that resembles a log additionally impregnated with wax. Very pretty.

Along the way, the ends were processed with a glazing composition No. 11 (white), which favorably sets off the work already done.

The result completely satisfied me, we continue the polishing that we started. Since you will do all the work yourself, the quality will be at the highest level. If the hired workers can ignore flaws, then the master himself will torment himself for even the smallest oversight. For example, knowing that somewhere below the log I missed a cut, like a criminal returning to the scene of a crime, I examined my “jamb” again and again. Until it was corrected.

The log cabin is getting more and more beautiful. Do not forget to clean the logs from dust with a brush after work.

In the next photo, the logs processed by the Base, and the ends sealed with white mastic.

Having appreciated the color and texture of the painted logs, I realized that inside the veranda it would look a little dark, and I experimented with coloring the log with composition No. 11 (white).

White paint retains the texture of the sanded log, and I decided to completely paint the veranda. Through the first layer, a slight yellowness of pine appears, and there is no shine. Very similar to just bleached wood. But the second layer works wonders. There is brilliance and a certain completeness. By the way, buy "Belinka Azure", as the white "Belinka Top Azure" is intended for window frames and costs much more.

Now the bath, with the exception of one wall, is covered in one layer and looks like a house with a Khokhloma painting negative. Pleased with the upper cross beam - a knotty Christmas tree, which gives the structure a look of conformity with the natural style.

We continue the construction of the bath and proceed to the stage of flooring on the veranda. There is a roof over the room, but the absence of a pediment (for the airiness of the building) does not prevent drops of slanting rains from entering. In winter, snow blowing and its subsequent melting during a thaw is not ruled out. Therefore, we turn Special attention preservation of boards and logs, as well as making the surface of the floors water-repellent along with a good appearance.

Part 5. Floor of the veranda

Boards 50 * 150 set on edge will serve as lags. According to the universal formula, the thickness of the board is multiplied by a factor of 20, and we get the step between the lags in my case 1000 mm. But I decided to somewhat strengthen the structure and placed the logs in 600 mm increments. It turned out like this.

On the veranda (conditionally 2 meters by 6 meters) I bought 16 six-meter boards, taking into account the lag and a margin of one board. It cost me 4300 rubles and 500 rubles for shipping. Some boards showed blue and mold, which is easily removed by sanding and bleaching. Worst of all, several boards are affected by the woodworm. Its larvae have made several through holes, which I then sealed with mastic. On examination, I didn’t find more living creatures and calmed down on that - after drying, the wood attracts them little, and treatment with an antiseptic and biocide will discourage the beetle from any desire to approach my veranda. I laid a vapor-permeable film on the ground inside the foundation so that no plant would get a chance to germinate inside the veranda. The boards were marked and sawn in accordance with their location.

After that, I removed the boards, numbering them according to their location, and started processing the logs. I used a vigorous antiseptic of Yaroslavl production. I am a little familiar with the preparation of antiseptics and the composition of the purchased products inspired confidence in me. Preservation of wood is declared at 45 years old, subject to the impregnation technology. It is required to use 500 grams of solution per square meter, i.e. We apply the first layer, and after 1-2 hours the second. antiseptic yellow color so the coating is clearly visible. When dry it becomes dark brown.

Next came the turn of the boards. Previously, on the surface located below and on the sides of the boards, I passed with a petal emery wheel, fixed on a grinder to remove the pile. So we provide better absorption of the antiseptic. Then we grind the front surface with a circle with a grain of 100. I also used my long-suffering grinder of the lowest price category. If you are afraid to make potholes and holes, then try grinding part of the board with a clogged circle to gain a little experience. Don't forget to chamfer the edges of the board.

Attention bonus! To make the floor surface perfect to the touch and pleasant for the feet, walk along the sanded board with a mild soapy solution. Apply with a brush or roller. When dried, the risen residual pile will become hard and it is easy to knock it down with a sandpaper even in manual mode.

The boards are laid on logs with a gap of 4 mm. As a "standard" we take an ordinary nail, which we put vertically between the boards.

Since I have boards natural humidity, maybe a little drier, that is, the likelihood of their warping in the process of drying. That is why I decided to use not self-tapping screws for fastening, but screw nails. A self-tapping screw is a weaker fastener for transverse loads and can simply burst. The head of the nail, so that there is no rust and its spread to the boards, is covered with mastic on wood.

See the nail? And he is here!

In the process of laying the boards, I begin processing them. I had the choice of using Alpina outdoor terrace oil or Belinka glazing as a coating. I liked the second option better. Firstly, that the oil that the Belinka Base penetrates deep into the tree and protects it from moisture. Secondly, the oil tinting and Belinka No. 24 are almost similar. Thirdly, oil and glazing composition, which does not have high resistance to abrasion, should be renewed every two years. And fourthly, Belinka is cheaper. A large flow of visitors is not planned on the veranda and the maximum load is walking in slippers or barefoot.

After the first layer of the Base has dried (24 hours), apply the second layer and let it dry for another day. And the culminating moment comes - coating with Belinka No. 24 glazing compound. If you want more effect and shine of the floor, then get Top Azure.

–––––– Half a year has passed ––––––

Since my last story of the past, quite a lot of time, and the construction of the bathhouse was gradually moving forward. Little by little, because you have to do everything yourself. I don't trust scammers. I contacted them twice (assembling the log house and installing the roof) and was very dissatisfied with the result.

I looked at the bathhouse from the side and decided that another pediment was needed to protect the veranda space from rain. He laid the lining in different directions, leaving something like a window. There will be a stained glass window - polycarbonate with a pattern applied with special stained glass paints.

The fit of the boards to the pediment turned out to be quite tight, so I will do without an additional plinth, I will leave it as it is.

The pediment is painted in the same color as the bath, a side board with a claim to carving is installed. The cost of the work was: lining - 2500 rubles; self-tapping screws - 200 rubles; paint - 200 rubles; wind carved board - 800 rubles. I think that it is quite inexpensive for such a result.

Last year, I didn’t have time to paint the roof lining, I just covered it with a base coat, the temperatures started to drop below zero. Just the other day, having chosen a period without rain, I walked with two layers of white Belinka. I liked the result, but I think to fix it with a third layer.

And so, the new bath construction season has opened. In autumn, I managed to capture a few fine days with a positive temperature, which finally made it possible to make a window and a door. The technology for preparing openings is standard. We mark and cut out with the formation of a spike on the log. For the window opening, I used a bar 100 * 200, and for the door frame, a bar 100 * 250. At the sawmill, they met me halfway and made two six-meter blanks on special order. They took quite ridiculous money - about 2500 rubles with delivery.

On the spot, the beam was sawn into the required segments. The window opening turned out to be clean 50 * 50 centimeters, the door clean 70 * 160. So we really implement the old commandment - bow to the bathhouse when you enter. Top level the threshold will be 15 centimeters from the floor to keep warm in winter. I sawed a groove on the beam according to the size of the spike on the log, plus a centimeter in width in each direction. I fixed a rolled insulation 20 centimeters wide on the spike, it seems linen, I don’t remember what I bought. The vertical beam went to the stretch, and horizontal segments were used as struts. The gap from the top pigtail to the log is about 3 cm, filled with moss. There is also moss under the threshold and window sill, which, after installing all the components, was compacted to the state of almost a log.

A quarter is selected on the window for ease of installation of plastic. Spacers are placed in the door, since during the natural drying of the timber, deformation is possible.

What is planned. The window is plastic with imitation of division into smaller windows. The photo shows my hooliganism, so to speak - instead of a window, I inserted foam plastic and made markings for the future product with insulating tape.

The door is metal with a heater on a cloth and jambs. In the company where the doors are made, the director is my good friend, we discussed all the details and, I hope, a good product will turn out. By door leaf there will be a wooden overlay 1.5 centimeters thick. According to the overlay, I will perform aging of wood, I will make an imitation of forged hinges and wooden cross bars. But this is in the future, and now he is engaged in the improvement of the veranda.

We have one craftsman who makes tables and benches of fairly good quality and quite inexpensively. This headset cost me only 7.5 thousand rubles. By tradition, I covered it with the Belinka base, Rosewood glazing compound and deck varnish from the same company.

Somewhere on the hundredth or two hundredth jump from the level of the veranda, I realized that I needed a porch. The plans were to make some kind of forged product with wooden steps, but for now I decided to limit myself to a temporary hut. Although the makeshift turned out to be quite nice and will still serve me until I get bored. On the sidewalls I used logs that remained from cutting out openings, on the steps a board 50 * 150. On the base he laid stones from a nearby quarry.

And now about the pressing. Firstly, I spend the caulk inside the log house. The logs have already settled down in place. What is possible - dried up, what is needed - led what it wanted - settled in its permanent place. Accordingly, gaps appeared inside that require careful sealing.

External examination confirmed good quality caulks. Nothing has fallen out, the birds haven't messed up, and the moss is lying as planned. When sawing openings, the moss was packed into one dense and hard strip, it was even difficult to make out, but it is good to fill cracks with such strips. I made another birch caulk. The shoulder blade turned out to be wider and larger, a two-kilogram sledgehammer perfectly suited it. Moss flies into the cracks with a whistle, and where the log lay too tightly I use birch wedges. The process is lengthy, but mandatory if you do not want to bathe in felt boots in winter. Secondly, I conducted an audit of the foundation. There are light chips on the outside, but these are sagging during pouring and do not affect the quality. However, if I have free time, I will plaster and cover facade paint. Manufacturer and color not yet chosen. Last year I installed low tides, which performed well even with a serious snow load. And, thirdly, I will count the snow holders. When last year a crust formed on the roof after a freezing rain, and 50-60 centimeters of snow fell on it, it was a good surprise in the form of a huge dense snowdrift near the bathhouse after the first thaw.

Well, I’ll tell you what I do to keep my bath warm and dry. A month ago I bought a metal stove from Izistim for 58,000 rubles. I chose for a long time, tediously, I read all the reviews and realized that this is what I need. Its parameters can be found on the official website of the company, where given detailed description. While the furnace is standing on the street in front of the bath, 130 kg of metal still needs to be thought out how to carefully drag it, especially since I still have no floors and 600 pieces of bricks are stacked on the ground. It turned out that these stoves are made literally right next to me, so I had the honor to communicate directly with the manufacturers, who really helped with advice and recommendations. The pipe is planned to be adjacent to the stainless sleeve. The structure will be about 5 meters. I ordered a stainless pipe with a wall thickness of 1 mm in the same place, in the Izistim company. Just a week later I received the order. laser welding, high quality And acceptable price. In terms of money, the pleasure amounted to 11,500 full-weight rubles for a set of pipes of 5 meters. CRAFT company.

The complete kit includes a tee, a plug for cleaning the pipe from soot and removing condensate, and a type of adapter with a platform that will allow you to firmly fix the chimney in a brick pipe. The design on the right in the photo is a horizontal pipe section from the stove to the chimney. Heat-resistant stainless steel 4 mm thick, made in EasySteam for 4300 rubles.

Naturally, I didn’t go shopping and bought convection doors without leaving the cash register. Comfortable constipation, normal appearance and additional sheets of metal for fixing products in brick.

I bought Kostroma clay brick of grade 150, which is enough for lining the furnace. The geometry of the brick is normal, if necessary, the edges can be rounded to give the products a more interesting shape. If you want a more beautiful brick, then buy Vitebsk brand 200. Each brick cost me 25 rubles apiece.

I didn’t bother with clay, which needs to be mined and prepared somewhere else, since I don’t have any special skills. Has gained ready mix « furnace house Makarov" production Kostroma, Gzhel colors. They also have a white clay mix for aesthetes. Pechnikov could not be found - everyone is busy. The cost for the masters starts from 40 rubles for a brick for lining and 60 rubles for a brick on a pipe. You can calculate the cost yourself. I will do it myself, although the work will be delayed.

Part 6. Furnace

“And the battle begins again” - we continue the construction of the bathhouse and the improvement of the internal space. The heart of the bath is the oven. My wishes for the climate of the future steam room and other rooms are extremely simple and unpretentious. Firstly, the legs and ears should be warm even in winter, and not bathe with a hard plus in the head area and at the same time in felt boots so that the legs do not freeze. Secondly, the inertia of the sauna stove must be present in order to be able to stop the heating and take a steam bath without running around for firewood while constantly maintaining the desired temperature. It is desirable that the heat in the bath was two or three days to dry the premises. And thirdly, hot water should not boil in the steam room, but is located in the washing compartment in the remote tank.

As I already wrote, the Sochi stove from the Izistim company was chosen with a hinged heat exchanger for heating water.

The heat exchanger is equipped with inlet and outlet pipes with a diameter of one inch. The design is intended for lining with brick, which will simultaneously become a screen from hard infrared radiation emanating from metal and a heat accumulator. Before installation, it is required to heat the oven on the street in a gentle mode to burn the factory paint and eliminate the smell of burning when operating directly in the bath. A heat-resistant cord is laid on the door and blower, which is necessary for sealing. Previously, this was not the case, but the company's managers listen to the recommendations of consumers through communication on the forum and make the necessary changes.

A cast-iron grate is installed inside the combustion chamber. Additional sheets of metal are welded on the sides and at the end of the chamber to reduce the effect of the flame on the walls of the furnace in order to avoid deformation.

For relative thrust, he installed a meter-long pipe and conducted the first tests of a metal sauna stove. The draft even with such a pipe stub is quite good, only a slight flow of smoke from the door is observed when it is opened and, accordingly, a small amount of soot on the glass.

The foundation for the furnace is connected with the foundation of the bathhouse, reinforcement was carried out during pouring. To start masonry leveled the surface cement mortar so as not to damage the waterproofing. I laid a roofing material on the pedestal in two layers, on which I will begin to lay out the brick.

To rise above the floor level, and from the foundation it will be about 18-19 centimeters, we lay out the base under the oven three bricks high. There is a little trick. To save mortar and bricks, we lay out a “well”, and inside we simply place the worst brick and fill the remaining space with sand.

The sand will need to be slightly moistened and compacted so that it does not settle, but this is not necessary, the filling will not go anywhere.

Brick made by Kostroma, worth 24 rubles apiece. The geometry is normal, there are chips at the corners and edges, so you have to choose on the front side of the furnace. It pricks badly, it is better to cut with a grinder. For the solution, the furnace mixture "Makarov's Furnace House" is used. The solution sets quickly, holds the brick perfectly, and is easy to use. Bags of 25 kg, the cost is about 400 rubles per piece. One bag is designed for laying 60 bricks. The solution must be mixed with a powerful drill with a nozzle, it is unlikely that it will be possible to make a homogeneous mass with your hands. The mixture is well dried and water has to be added quite a lot.

I “sealed” the upper row of bricks on the base of the furnace with mortar, I wanted to install the structure on metal nickels - the legs of the furnace, as it seemed to me, would push through the brick. But it turned out that in this case the neck with the door rises and a gap appears. Therefore, then he cleaned the solution, refused the lining.

I immediately tried on convection doors that will draw air from the rest room to the steam room for exchange. But, as it turned out later, they cannot be installed in this place, the decorative screen around the firebox will interfere.

The most difficult thing was to drag the stove into the bathhouse and not demolish anything along the way. The design of 130 kg commanded respect, and I had to order two stronger loaders. If for the first time a loader from the category of “legs and a cap” helped me to drag the stove to the bathhouse, then the masters really arrived. They pushed me away and in 10 minutes they hoisted the “piece of iron” to the place of operation.

I put a T-shaped outlet on the furnace to determine the root pipe. The picture shows a rear view, where the “lambs” are located for removing the roof and then cleaning the pipe from soot, although the manufacturers assured me of its absence.

The root pipe will run to the left of the furnace and also stand on a foundation connected to a common belt. We continue laying with the formation of a pipe.

The pipe will be functional only after the entrance of the T-shaped segment, so we make its sides one and a half bricks, and we also fill the internal space with sand.

Inside the steam room in the furnace screen, we install two more convection doors, but big size. This is necessary to quickly warm up the room. We do not lay the top of the furnace with bricks, we leave space for stones. With the convection doors open, air is taken from the floor, passes near the furnace body and exits through the stones already heated. The air flow can be adjusted with a damper. Doors are hung from the side convenient for you.

I bought the doors from the Izistim company, they modernized the design by adding a stainless steel box along the width of the brick. Now it has become convenient to put the doors, without additional fastening wire. Small gaps are left along the perimeter (except for the bottom) of the doors, which compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal.

The root pipe, so that it passes between the rafters and does not take up much space, is located in line with the “face” of the stove screen. The T-shaped adapter goes a little to the side. In "Izistim" it was made for me with a margin. But, as it turned out, the size was the most suitable, as they say, do not subtract, do not add. A 4 mm stainless steel product cost 4,500 rubles.

It's time to hang the heat exchanger. I bought galvanized corners, spurs and couplings per inch, attached to the general structure, wrapping the threads with flax treated with a heat-resistant sealant (red in the picture).

Brickwork reached the top of the firebox. We install a support corner of 50 * 50 mm with an approach to a brick of 8-10 cm. Around the firebox there is a thermal gap of about 2 cm.

The front side is almost finished, the convection doors are set higher than planned, but for air exchange it is even more convenient, the air coming from the rest room to the steam room will not overheat. Contact with the heated oven is minimal.

We slowly close the heat exchanger with masonry and make outlets for the pipes for connection to the remote tank. The holes are not very neat and then I will close them with stainless steel discs or other decor that is not afraid of moisture. This is a wall in the washing room, it is planned to lay bricks up to the ceiling.

The facade of the stove is finished, the “mantelpiece” will go next in order to hot air from the firebox, when it was opened, did not go directly to the ceiling, but had some obstacle. Yes, and you can put interior decoration items on a shelf.

The wall in the washing room is finished, the pipe outlets are made. It remains to buy stainless pipes and make connections with a mounted tank.

It's time to blow the pipe. Tying masonry from the steam room. The T-piece is connected to the sleeve through a tee. At the bottom of the tee, a cover is installed that allows you to drain condensate and clean the pipe from soot.

From the side of the steam room, the stove looks like this: the T-shaped adapter is covered with a brick screen from above. A corner 40 * 40 is taken as supports.

I will close the cavity above the stove and the adapter with stones for decoration and evaporation of various incense, there is no other function for these stones. And perhaps I will close the pipe with a sheet of stainless steel iron to avoid hard thermal radiation from a very hot metal.

We continue to build a pipe. In the place where the ceiling passes, we form a fluff in order to maintain fire-prevention distances from the "smoke" to wooden structures. As expected, the front and side wall furnaces reached almost to the future ceiling.

According to calculations, the root pipe should pass in the middle between ceiling beams. And so it happened. The pipe has "grown" to the roof and it's time to make an opening.

And the "face" of the stove looks like this. Convection doors are located in one row with a pipe cleaning. It is still covered with clay, but it is already possible to understand what I want.

Next, we prepare the roof for the passage of the pipe. From the inside, the roof was drilled at the corners of the future passage with a margin of one centimeter. Bulgarian sawed out a metal tile on the roof. I got a passage almost strictly in the center of the ridge, which is convenient for the subsequent closing of the hole from the rain. And the snow will not put pressure on the brickwork.

First of all, we bring a sleeve from a stainless pipe into the opening, then we begin laying.

You should not be content with only the level, you will have to run down so that the pipe is visually even. "Otter", protection from the rain is made almost half a brick. And now the pipe, not yet cleared of clay, takes its prescribed forms.

The pipe was cleaned of clay and varnished for outdoor work on stone and brick in three layers. Each layer hardens about four parts at a temperature of +200°C. It turns out the effect of a wet stone and sealing the pores. The temperature at the top of the stove will roughly match the outside air, if only a little warmer, so the varnish is frost-resistant, withstanding sudden changes in temperature. We got the effect of a wet stone and sealing the pores on the brick and seams, which will protect the material from washing out.

Around the pipe he covered with material that remained from the manufacture of ebbs. Entry on the brick is about 1 centimeter under the "otter". The first rains showed the effectiveness of the design.

Firstly, clean the furnace from clay. Don't use water. So you will only rub the mortar inside the brick and you will not be able to get rid of the stains. If you do not want to spoil the outer part of the brick, then be patient, rags and brushes. You can use fine sandpaper.

Secondly, cover the oven with heat-resistant varnish, it is enough to use the composition up to 1500 ° C, you will no longer heat up the screen with all your desire.

And thirdly, put an umbrella on the pipe in order to avoid rain getting inside.

Little trick: to prepare the solution, take rain water, thereby you can avoid salt stains on bricks when clay dries.

And, I will be happy to answer all your questions, since the report from the scene is far from complete and you may be interested in some of the nuances. We'll help you take pictures and show you.

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The steam room is traditionally considered the key room in the Russian bath, because. the functionality of bath procedures, famous for their useful and healing properties, depends on it. In the article we will talk about how to properly make a steam room in a bath with your own hands, how to equip ventilation, floor and shelves.

The manufacturing process of a steam room can be divided into several work operations of the following content:

• thermal insulation of the room;
• arrangement of the furnace and ventilation;
• finishing.

thermal insulation

The main indicator of the efficiency of the steam room is stable heat, which is almost impossible to maintain without high-quality thermal insulation. That is why the warming of the steam room is considered the most important procedure in the entire process of its arrangement.

With poor-quality insulation of the steam room, the air in the room will heat up very slowly and cool quickly, and the steam will have a very low concentration.

When insulating the steam room, the most various materials, each of which performs a specific function, and the absence of any of them leads to a sharp decrease in the quality of insulation. As a result of this distribution of functions, a multilayer protective covering, which includes the following sequentially placed layers:

• waterproofing layer;
• insulation layer;
• vapor barrier material;
• inner lining.

Waterproofing of the surfaces (walls and ceiling) of the steam room is carried out by closing them with a layer of waterproofing material such as foil, for example, or polyethylene film.

It is recommended to start the arrangement of the heat-insulating layer by attaching unpainted clean paper to the surfaces of the walls and ceiling, on top of which a frame of wooden blocks is stuffed, which serves as the base for placing the plates. thermal insulation material. Above insulation material it is closed with a layer of vapor barrier, which is most often used as ordinary aluminum foil. Then a frame is made from wooden bars, which is subsequently sheathed with clapboard.

The ceiling must be better insulated than the walls, so the layer of thermal insulation material on it must be thicker.

Video

An example of a heat and vapor barrier device:

Furnace and ventilation

The "soul" of any Russian bath is, of course, its stove, thanks to which steam procedures are famous for their healing properties. For the construction of the furnace, it is recommended to use materials from the following list:

• red oven or fireclay brick;
• natural stones;
• cast iron plates.

If desired, all these materials can be used in combination, since brick is a good accumulator of stove heat, stones will allow you to get steam, and heated cast-iron stoves have a high heat transfer. With this use of heat storage properties source materials the resulting oven can "keep" heat for 12-15 hours (at temperatures up to 85 degrees). But this, of course, depends on the quality of thermal insulation.

In the room itself, a special window for ventilation is usually not made. ventilation window it makes sense to do in the dressing room, and already from it Fresh air will go to the pair department.

Video

Here are considered typical mistakes ventilation and the most versatile scheme of working ventilation:

Finishing

The internal finishing of the steam room is carried out immediately after the completion of the main construction operations and is usually carried out using wood materials that are resistant to high humidity and temperature. For decoration, you can use a variety of tree species, but it is best to close the walls with linden or alder, and cover the floor with larch material. Shelves made of linden, when heated, will release a unique aroma containing various natural enzymes. They have a beneficial effect on a person.

After finishing, the wooden walls of the steam room are carefully sanded and left in their natural form.

Steam room design

When deciding how to properly make a steam room, due attention should be paid to its design. When designing a steam room, the following tips from experts should be taken into account:

• the walls, floor and ceiling in the steam room are best left in their natural state, without resorting to the use of any coatings. In this case wooden surfaces will heat up much faster.
• shelves and benches in the steam room look more aesthetically pleasing if placed on different levels. This is also convenient from the point of view of their functionality, since different heights you can choose the temperature that suits you;
• in order to stylize the interior of the steam room, you can add elegantly designed hangers for towels and brooms, as well as decorate the doors of the steam room with original frames and beautiful handles;
• As light sources, it is best to use lamps with a soft and soft glow, placing them above the front door.