How to make a frame for arches. How to make a drywall arch - a phased installation and decoration technology How to build a drywall arch

The doorway will look more aesthetically pleasing if you arrange it in the form of a semicircular arch. You can make it from drywall yourself, without resorting to the services of professional builders.

arch markup

A significant disadvantage of this design is the reduction in the size of the doorway. To see if the arch will fit well into a particular doorway, it is better to first cut out a piece of paper or cardboard and fasten it above the door. If the height of the opening is less than 2.5 m, it may be necessary to reduce the bend of the arch or make small bends only at the corners of the arch.

Installation of an arch with a small bend radius

To draw the upper part of the arch on the workpiece, we will use compass. You can make it from improvised means: a self-tapping screw or an awl fixed in the center of the circle, a thread and a pencil. Pulling the thread evenly, we draw the required arc. The longer the thread, the flatter the arch will be.

Construction of a circle

You can also make a compass from trimming a metal profile

cutting drywall

1. First, cut through the first layer of cardboard and the gypsum core. To do this, a ruler is applied to the intended line, and a ruler is drawn along it several times. with a sharp knife or saw for metal.

Cutting through the first two layers

2. To finally break the gypsum core, drywall is placed on the edge and the cut is lightly tapped. If the part to be cut has a small width, you can break the plaster by simply pressing on the edge of the sheet.

Cutting the second layer

4. To remove roughness along the edge of the cut, it is processed sandpaper or rasp.

Important! For perfect joining of sheets along the edges of drywall with a sharp knife, remove chamfer 45°.

Chamfering

Cutting blanks for the upper vault of the arch

It is most convenient to work with electric jigsaw or a special planer for drywall. With the help of them, you can cut out any shapes from drywall. Moreover, with this method, gypsum practically does not generate dust, and the resulting edges require almost no additional processing.

Jigsaw cutting

You can also trim curly edges with drywall knives saw-shaped or metal saw blade with fine teeth. However, this will require some skill. A knife or a saw is drawn along the intended line so that the blade penetrates as deeply as possible into the sheet. In this case, the tool must go strictly perpendicular to the surface. Next, tap the place of the cut with a hammer, if necessary, draw a knife over it several more times.

Cutting with a knife-saw for drywall

Then cut through reverse side of the sheet, on which traces from the pressure of the knife are already visible. Then the excess pieces are cut off, and the edges of the sheet are trimmed with sandpaper. If the cut line is large enough, it is better to cut the sheet inside the outline into segments.

For getting holes(for example, for mounting lamps or sockets), you can use an electric drill with a crown-shaped nozzle.

drill bit

Cutting and bending metal rails

Aluminum rails are cut with conventional scissors for metal. To fix the upper part of the arch, you will need a special arched profile. It can be purchased at the store or do it yourself.

To bend the profile on it are made incisions. The distance between them depends on the bending radius - the larger it is, the more often notches should be made. For bending, it is better to choose an L-shaped profile - it will be much easier to work with it, and incisions will have to be made only on one side.

Profile bending

Drywall bending

For the device of the arch can be purchased arched drywall. It is more plastic and, since its thickness is less than ordinary sheets, it bends easily. However, buying a whole sheet is quite expensive. Some stores sell such material not in sheets, but in segments, which is very convenient. If it is not possible to purchase a small piece, you can also bend a regular drywall sheet.

Thin arched drywall bends easily but costs more

To do this, you can use two methods: wet and dry. In the first case, in order for moisture to better penetrate deep into the sheet, the drywall blank should be rolled before bending. needle roller.

Before bending, the workpiece is rolled with a needle roller

Further sheet evenly moistened with water and laid on a curved surface, repeating the shape of the arch, pressing down with a load. A device for drying the workpiece can be cut from the remains of drywall or plywood.

wet bending

Important! With any bending method, it should be noted that drywall bends well only along the length of the sheet.

At dry bending cuts are made along the entire length of the fold. Moreover, the larger the bending radius, the more often such notches should be applied. You can do this quickly with a grinder, however, since this produces a lot of gypsum dust, it is better to do the work on the street.

Dry bending drywall

Frame installation

After dismantling the door frame, the surface is cleaned of loose plaster, dust and dirt and all irregularities are knocked down. Further, on the sides of the doorway, with the help of self-tapping dowels in increments of 20-30 cm, they are fixed two rack metal profiles. At the same time, 11-12 mm should be retreated from the edge for the installation of drywall and the application of putty. If the width of the opening is large (more than 1 m), fasten between two guides jumpers. Small sections of profiles connecting two side rails are also mounted at the bottom of the opening. They should rest on the floor.

At the top of the doorway are mounted two curved profiles. If necessary, they are also interconnected by jumpers.

Fixing the top part of the profile

Fastening the profile with jumpers

Between themselves, the sections of the profile are fastened with self-tapping screws.

Drywall fixing

The very first self-tapping screws with a step of 25-35 cm blanks for the upper semicircle of the arch are attached. Their width should be equal to the width of the doorway plus 10-15 mm. Self-tapping screws should not be fastened too close to the corners - it is necessary to indent 1-1.5 cm, otherwise cracks will appear at the attachment points.

Drywall installation

Corner fixing

Important! So that the screws do not protrude above the surface, they should be sunk into the sheet by a couple of millimeters. In the future, the holes from them are covered with putty.

The finished structure is plastered with a wide spatula first starting, and then finishing putty. The solution is applied to the inside of the arch, and then, after it has completely dried, to the side walls. At the joints of drywall, to protect the mortar from cracking, it is attached with a putty paint grid.

After the installation is completed, the arch is covered with putty

Attaching the paint grid

Pivot structures in the form of arched openings have already become familiar in the interiors of houses. With simple, straight-line models from plasterboard, with certain skills, many can handle it on their own, but it often becomes difficult to make a frame for a plasterboard arch.

An example of mounting a frame for a plasterboard arch The process of manufacturing such a product is more laborious, requires accuracy of calculation, patience, but the result will bring satisfaction from your work.

In addition to rectilinear forms of drywall, they make different types of arched structures.
Types of arches:

Classical, with the same arcuate equilateral bevels.
Asymmetric, roundings differ from each other in shape.
Semi-arch, beveled surface on only one side of the opening.
Gothic shape with a pointed shape in the middle of the arc.
Wavy from several arcuate elements.
Arch in oriental style, dome-shaped.

In addition, openings, wall structures vary in size. All of them are made according to the same principle, but the craftsmen use different techniques and techniques.

An example of the design of a doorway with a drywall arch

The choice of drywall and profiles

To make a frame for a drywall arch, an arched profile and drywall are produced in the manufacture of curved structures. The sheet is reinforced with fiberglass, unlike the wall GKL, it is easily bent, does not break.

The profile for the manufacture of curved structures is a perforated tape with notches and bending stiffeners, outward and inward.

It differs by:

The standard height of the side shelf is 27 mm. Sizes vary depending on the manufacturer.
from specially designed materials greatly facilitates the process. But not always in building markets, especially in peripheral areas, you can purchase an arched profile and plasterboard.

Masters adapted to make curved structures from wall metal racks, drywall. An alternative to the profile can be a wooden beam.

Materials and tools

Before proceeding with the manufacture of arched structures, it is necessary to determine the method of its manufacture. Will specialized materials be used (flexible plasterboard and profiles) or ordinary wall gypsum, profile. This will depend on the purchase of materials.

Scheme with the dimensions of the drywall arch frame
Materials:

(flexible, wall).
Profiles, wooden beam.
Fasteners.

Arch manufacturing sequence, methods

The sequence of actions in the construction of arched structures is the same, they differ in the methods used for assembly.

A drawing with the dimensions of a frame for an arch made of plasterboard

Determined with the size and shape of the future design.
Then they prepare an opening under it.
Make measurements of the length of the profile, prepare it.
Attach the guide profile to the opening.
GKL sheets are cut in the shape of an arch.
Screw the bent profile to the cut drywall.
Attach the prepared structure to the guides.
Then the sidewalls are sewn up with bending, pre-prepared sheets.
Process the ends of the arch.

Consider the methods of assembling arched structures.

How to make a drywall arch frame: installation process

Pay attention to the next point. With an opening height of up to 2 meters, it is not advisable to make an arch in it, as it makes it visually lower. A functional standard opening should be at least two meters.

We prepare the opening

Align and sew up with drywall, less often with wood or plywood. GKL sheets are glued to the walls, checking or with a building corner.

If the width of the opening allows, or the entire partition is made on, racks are set up and sewn up.

Guide profile installation

The next step is to fix the guide profile. More often used for this brand is PN (bearing profile) 50/40 (wall), self-tapping screws 3.2 x 45 (35) mm, for metal for plasterboard structures. Fasten along the upper perimeter of the opening on both sides. 1.2-1.3 cm recede from the edge (gypsum board width).

Before fixing the guides, it is necessary to mark the horizon points from which the construction of the arch structure will be repelled. The floors may not be perfectly flat, so it is not always possible to build on them when measuring. To do this, mark an equal distance from the floor and draw a horizontal line. From it mark the height of the fastening of the guide profiles.

Arched cutting

We decide on the shape of the future arch. Measure the width and height.

The design option and shape of the drywall arch You can immediately cut out a square, screw it to the guides and draw a structure on it, correct its shape and cut it out. But it’s more difficult to work on weight, it’s easier to assemble an arch on the floor or table.
For this:

No need to rush, since the GKL sheet is a rather fragile material, chips may appear on it with sharp jerks of a jigsaw or saw.

Mounting the profile to the workpiece from GKL

When an arched profile is used, measurements of the arched part of the arch are sufficient. Then cut the workpiece and attach with self-tapping screws (TV or TN length 25 mm). But often craftsmen make a profile for wall racks.

The assembled frame of the interior arch from GKL How to prepare a stand for the arch:

The corners at the ends of the profile are cut at an angle of approximately 45⁰. The design is thus ready for attachment to the arched opening.

Arch installation

All stages of installation work must be checked using a level and building corner.
Sequence of work:

In general, the main structure of the arched opening is ready, it remains to sew up the side concave surface with drywall. Watch the video for a detailed process of making a frame for a plasterboard arch.

We sew the lateral concave surface of the plasterboard

In the case of using an arched plasterboard, it is enough to cut a piece to size and attach it to the structure.
If wall, ceiling gypsum is used, then there are two ways to bend it dry and wet.

dry method

On a blank cut to size, transverse cuts are made with a construction knife, cutting through paper and lightly gypsum. Apply it to the side surface, breaking along the incisions. The step of the notches depends on the angle of flexion, on average from 4 to 8 cm.

Dry bending drywall method for arches

wet method

A blank from a GKL sheet is placed on a stool or in a form specially knocked down from the boards, which corresponds to the size of the arch. Frequent small notches are made on the inner surface or a spiked roller is used for this purpose. Wet the surface from the inside with a wet sponge, put a wet, damp cloth on top. After 15 - 20 minutes, the gypsum will begin to sag, and after 1.5-2 hours it will take the desired shape.

Then it is carefully removed or removed from the stand, applied to the side surface of the structure, and fixed. It is necessary to handle the material extremely delicately, it is better to carry out this stage of work with an assistant.

In this material, we will look at how to mount drywall arches with our own hands. The photos and diagrams below will help you better understand some of the subtleties of the installation process.

How to make a drywall arch with your own hands: step by step instructions

Let's start making drywall arches by taking measurements.

Taking measurements

Object dimensions. For example, we have a doorway in a brick wall 2,100 mm high and 800 mm wide. The top point of the arch will be at a height of 2,000 mm and, since opening width - 800 mm, the radius of the arch will leave half the width - 400 mm. Thus, the lower point of the arch will have 2,000 - 400 = 1,600 mm.

Photo 1 - Working area

Along the perimeter of the opening (on both sides) we mount the UD-27 profile. The required profile length is calculated as follows:

(800 + 400 + 400)*2=3200 (mm), i.e. 3.2 linear meters.

In order to fix the UD-27 profile to the wall, we need a puncher and driven dowels 6x40 mm (6x60 mm). Holes for mounting are made in the profile before installation (the fastening step will be 300 mm).

Photo 2 - Taking measurements

Scheme 1 - Total consumption of materials per arch

Marking work

In order to cut a part from drywall with the desired bending radius, we need a drywall plate with a size of at least 800x400 mm.

Place the drywall sheet horizontally. You need to work on a flat surface - a wide tabletop or on the floor.

In the drywall sheet on the longer side, we make two holes with a diameter of not more than 4 mm at a distance of 400 mm from each other.

Using a wooden ruler, the length of which is 410 mm or more, after 400 mm from the extreme point, we put the mark "1".

IMPORTANT! Alternatively, instead of a ruler, you can use UD-27 or CD-60 profile segments. A margin along the length of the ruler is needed for fastening a self-tapping screw in the center of the sheet, as well as a pencil for drawing the outline of the arch bend.

Photo 7 - Stroke the outline of the arch

In the mark "1" on the self-tapping screw we fix the end of the ruler or metal profile.

We put a pencil at the first point from the edge of the drywall sheet, fixing the lead to the end of the ruler and, turning the ruler along the drywall sheet, draw a circle of the desired diameter.

Cut out the profile

With a manual hacksaw on drywall, we cut out the part according to the markup. According to this scheme, we need to cut two identical parts from drywall.

We apply one of the details of the arch to the profiles screwed onto the wall according to the marks. These jobs are best done with a partner who can hold the drywall. If working alone, the drywall piece can be attached with one or two screws.

Please note: there is a surplus at the bottom of the fixed profiles that needs to be cut into an arch shape. We make the appropriate markup and, setting aside a sheet of drywall, cut off the profile with metal scissors or a grinder. You should perform this operation 4 times - with each of the 4 profiles fixed vertically.

Installation of arch details

After trimming the profile, you can begin to fix the previously made arch details. The step of fastening drywall to the UD-27 profile is from 250 to 300 mm.

We calculate the length of the profiles for attaching drywall to the radius of the arch.

From the circle length formula (2πR) we know all the quantities: π=3.14, R=400.

We are only working with half a circle. Thus, we have:

2πR/2=πR=3.14*400=1256 (mm)

Those. fastening is necessary to close the bend of the arch, its length must be at least 1,256 mm.

We make a curved profile for this fastener.

We bend the profile

How to bend a profile?

Using scissors for metal on both sides of the profile, we make symmetrical cuts in increments of 40 mm, since it is almost impossible to bend the profile without cuts.

After making cuts, the profile must be bent along the existing radius.

Arch profile fixing

How to assemble a structure with a curved profile?

We begin to fix the profile from the lower end of the arch, gradually screwing the part to the drywall. Fastening the profile to drywall must be done with a screwdriver and self-tapping screws for drywall type MN 25.

Scheme 2 Arch

The bending points of the profile are screwed with an underestimation of 2-3 mm inside the structure.

IMPORTANT! The profile should not protrude beyond the edge of the arch.

Having reached the opposite end of the drywall bend, secure the profile with a self-tapping screw and cut off the excess, if any.

The second option for fastening the arched profile is from the middle: having connected the central bending point of the drywall and the center of the arched profile, we first fasten the profile on one side of the structure with self-tapping screws, and then the second.

IMPORTANT! If the distance from the center point of the upper edge of the drywall to the center of the arch bend is 600 mm or more, it is imperative to install jumpers made from the CD-60 profile to hold the structure.

Making a drywall arch completes the installation of a curved sheet in a doorway.

Making a curved plasterboard part

How to make a curved drywall part?

Interior arches made of plasterboard rarely do without curved parts.

Masters use the following manufacturing options for this structural element:

you can purchase thinner drywall - up to 9.5 mm thick (the device of a curved part when using such a material is greatly facilitated due to its pliability and plasticity);

the second option concerns rather not the material used for work, but the dimensions of the arch, because. the larger the radius the arch will have, the easier it will be to bend the drywall sheet;

drywall can also be bent wet by wetting the sheet with water and walking over it with a spiked roller, and then fixing it on a bending template.

IMPORTANT! Figured parts for the manufacture of drywall arches in the corridor, in the hallway or any other room must be cut with a width less than the width of the wall by 4 mm. In our case, you will need a part with a size of 1,230x296 mm (since the width of the structure is 300 mm).

We will also bend drywall in a “wet” way, but without perforating the sheet, because. thin drywall is used: with a roller or sponge, you need to wet the drywall abundantly on both sides and carefully attach it to the arched profiles after 15-20 minutes.

The fastening step should be no more than 15-20 cm.

Finishing seams and puttying joints

After that, you can start finishing the seams and puttying the joints of drywall sheets.

How to putty the joints of drywall boards?

The assembly seams are filled with putty, after which a serpentine tape is applied to the seam and puttyed again. This is followed by puttying the recesses from the screws and finishing the sheets.

How to make an arch? The design of a drywall arch often comes down to the installation of built-in lighting. At the same time, spotlights can be hidden in the wall, and not just on the bend of the drywall. An illuminated arch is not only a beautiful, but also a functional object in the interior.

How to make a drywall arch: VIDEO

Plasterboard arches: design

Drywall semi-arch

A semi-arch is a popular type of plasterboard construction that decorates doorways.

It is distinguished from the arch by a simplified frame: wall profiles are mounted on only one of the walls, i.e. as a result, the semi-arch is a quarter of a circle inscribed in the doorway.

Making a semi-arch with your own hands

The semi-arch is placed according to the same principle as the plasterboard arch, but only in the "half" version of the work. Therefore, you should not have any problems with how to build a semi-arch. Installation and preparatory work with this type of construction is even less than with the standard version.

In addition to the semi-arch, there are also other types of arch, shown below in the photo.

In the work were used

dowels 6x40 or 6x60 mm for attaching profiles to walls (step up to 400 mm);

self-tapping screws LN 9, LN 11 (self-tapping screws, with a sharp end), or LB 9, LB 11 (self-tapping screws with a drilling end);

self-tapping screws MN 25, MN 30 for fastening plasterboard sheets to a metal frame.

Do-it-yourself drywall arches: VIDEO

$ Cost of drywall arch

How much does it cost to install a drywall arch

in Moscow - from 190 rubles / m²;

in Kiev - from 56 UAH / m² (price for plasterboard curly structures).

The great popularity of drywall arches (gypsum plasterboard) is due to its properties. The article describes the types of arches, materials and tools used during installation. The preparatory operations are described. The main attention is paid to the question - how to make drywall arches with your own hands, with the application of video material. Installation advice is provided.

Drywall (GKL) - sheet composite material, consisting of two layers of cardboard and a layer of gypsum with fillers between them. The main advantages of the material, causing its widespread use:

the possibility of bending;
ease of processing;
environmental friendliness, fire safety;
low price.

Types of arches

Among the variety of arches are:

classic arches with a constant radius - variants of the arc of a circle.
elliptical arches - the arc of an ellipse.
arch-portal and arch-romance - rectangular arches, etc.

The most popular are the first two types. Complex shapes are possible, it all depends on the imagination. Arches are arranged in interior openings as an alternative to interior doors (most often) or in wall niches.

Materials and tools

For the installation of arches, two types of plasterboards are used - ceiling and arched. The second is more expensive, but more convenient to use.

Tool:

roulette;
pencil;
construction knife or electric jigsaw (preferably) - for cutting sheets;
scissors for metal - profile processing;
screwdriver;
perforator;

Auxiliary materials:

Profile - special arched (for example, PN 28/27), ceiling and guide can be;
dowels 6×45 mm;
self-tapping screws;
serpyanka, putty "uniflot", "fugenfüller";
a sheet of cardboard - as a future template (optional).

All about mineral wool - characteristics and application.

Material preparation (cutting and bending)

The arch has three elements:

2 identical side walls;
arc element - a rectangular strip, bent along.

Side sheet cutout defines arch profile. A profile with a constant radius is easy to make with a homemade compass. This is a string of the required length with a fixed center (for example, a screwed in screw) and a pencil on the other side. An elliptical profile can be made using any flexible rail. If you fix the ends along the width of the arch, then by changing the length of the rail you can get the desired profile (ellipse arc). It is enough just to outline the contour of the rail with a pencil.

Cutting sheets is done with a jigsaw. The knife requires more effort and time, especially for a curved surface, the edges will have to be finalized. Drywall thickness for installation:

6-10 mm- bent sheet;
10-12 mm- side pieces.

GKL bend

This is the most painstaking and responsible operation that can be performed in two ways:

dry bend- gradual bending of the sheet as it is attached to the profile. Recommended for beginners.
wet bend- wetting the inner surface of the profile and giving the desired shape on the template. Before wetting, the sheet is perforated with a needle roller in two directions. Humidification is done with a spray or sponge. The sheet gradually, under its own weight, takes the form of a template. Drying time is at least 12 hours.

In both cases, you must keep in mind the thickness of the drywall, which affects the bending radius:

Do-it-yourself installation of an arch from GKL

Installation of arches of various types and forms has general principles. As an example, the sequence of installing an arch in an interior opening is given. Actions at any stage may vary somewhat at the discretion of the performer. The installation site must be prepared: wallpaper, paint, etc.

Determine the main dimensions of the arch with a tape measure.
Draw on the sheet the overall lines of the wall of the arch. Mark the cut line with a compass or with a flexible strip.
Cut out the side wall with a jigsaw or knife. Cut the second part according to the first (sample).
Cut the guide profile with scissors for metal: along the width of the opening - 2 and along the height of the arch - 4 pieces.
The frame is mounted on dowels with self-tapping screws, the distance from the edge of the wall must correspond to the thickness of the plasterboard. Holes are drilled with a perforator - depth 5-7 cm, step 40 cm.

Fasten the cut sheets to the frame with drywall / metal self-tapping screws, pitch 10-15 mm. Drown the heads of the self-tapping screws into the drywall.
Measure the circumference (ellipse) with a tape measure and cut off the guide profile. It should be slightly shorter than the measurement, taking into account the installed side profiles.
To bend the U-shaped profile on the edges with a step of 1.5-5 cm, make cuts.
Bend the profile and attach it to the plasterboard walls from the inside.

Cut a strip of drywall to the measured cutout length and arch (opening) width.
Bend the strip dry (cross cuts) or wet. Any suitable material can be used as a template for the wet method, it must be in the shape of an arch. For example, fragments (see figure) after cutting out the side walls or the walls themselves, then you need to do this before installing them (the order of this instruction changes slightly). If the radius is large, you can simply install the strip, sequentially screwing it to the profile.
After drying (about half a day), attach the strip to the guides.

The arch is ready. It remains only to putty it, you can glue the joints and corners with sickle before that. After the final finishing of the room, install a plastic corner on the edges (optional).

Detailed installation guide for plastic windows.

Conclusion

Despite the variety of types of arches, the general installation procedure does not change, only slight deviations in the sequence, the use of templates, etc. are possible.

When using the dry method with notches, the surface of the arch takes on a broken look (not smooth, as with other methods). This makes the design more original. The number of fractures depends on the pitch of the notches.

With the wet method, complete drying of the GKL is required.

Do not forget about the allowable radius of curvature of the arch.

You can watch a film about the installation of arches here:

arch markup

Installation of an arch with a small bend radius

Construction of a circle

You can also make a compass from trimming a metal profile

cutting drywall

Cutting through the first two layers

Cutting the second layer

4. To remove roughness along the edge of the cut, it is processed sandpaper or rasp.

Important! For perfect joining of sheets along the edges of drywall with a sharp knife, remove chamfer 45°.

Chamfering

Cutting blanks for the upper vault of the arch

Jigsaw cutting

Cutting with a knife-saw for drywall

For getting holes(for example, for mounting lamps or sockets), you can use an electric drill with a crown-shaped nozzle.

drill bit

Cutting and bending metal rails

Aluminum rails are cut with conventional scissors for metal. To fix the upper part of the arch, you will need a special arched profile. It can be purchased at the store or do it yourself.

Profile bending

Drywall bending

Thin arched drywall bends easily but costs more

Before bending, the workpiece is rolled with a needle roller

wet bending

Important! With any bending method, it should be noted that drywall bends well only along the length of the sheet.

Dry bending drywall

Frame installation

At the top of the doorway are mounted two curved profiles. If necessary, they are also interconnected by jumpers.

Fixing the top part of the profile

Fastening the profile with jumpers

Between themselves, the sections of the profile are fastened with self-tapping screws.

Drywall fixing

Drywall installation

Corner fixing

Important! So that the screws do not protrude above the surface, they should be sunk into the sheet by a couple of millimeters. In the future, the holes from them are covered with putty.

After the installation is completed, the arch is covered with putty

Attaching the paint grid

Related video: Do-it-yourself drywall arch

Do-it-yourself drywall arch: step by step instructions

Once upon a time, only a professional could make an arch. This was before the advent of drywall. Now a beginner can make an arch from drywall. You do not need a special tool for this, the technology itself is simple and straightforward - just follow our instructions.

Where to begin

The most common are arches of simple shapes - parts of a circle or an oval. They are best suited for most traditional interior styles, where regular shapes and symmetry are welcome. In addition, they are the easiest to make with your own hands.

1. Classic rounded arch. 2. Modern. 3. Romance. 4. Ellipse. 5. Trapeze. 6. Semiarca

But first you need to decide whether the height of the vault will be sufficient. And if for a niche in the wall the dimensions do not play a special role, then for the passage between the rooms the ratio of the width of the arch and the distance from the floor to the point of junction of the arch with the wall of the opening means a lot.

The wider the opening in which the arch is formed, the greater the bending radius will be required so that the shape of the arch is proportionate

Usually they are guided by a simple ratio of a standard interior door - 80-100 cm wide by 200 cm high. That is, a rectangle of such dimensions should be inscribed in a “pure form” in the plane of the opening, taking into account the arch. Following this rule, you can determine that the width of the opening:

100 cm corresponds to the height of the lower points of the arch about two meters;
200 cm - about 180 cm;
300 cm - about 160 cm.

It follows from this that if the arch is made where the standard interior door stood, then the height of the opening will have to be increased.

The easiest way is to arrange an arch in a new place during redevelopment, when interior partitions are re-installed. And here we must already remember the recommended distance from the top point of the arch to the ceiling - usually it is 40–60 cm. Often the height of the ceilings does not allow the arch to be “fitted” in accordance with this rule, and this point is raised a little higher. But even in this case, you should not reduce the clearance to the ceiling level of less than 30 cm.

Once the indicative values for the junction points with the opening and for the height of the vault are set, the arch in the opening can be modeled from improvised means and make sure that it corresponds to the general plan.

It is convenient to use a special plastic corner for arches, which will ultimately be used when finishing the opening.

One simple modeling technique is to use a long strip of flexible material as a template, such as a plastic skirting board with hard edges. The plinth is applied with edges at the lower points of the arched opening, bent to the height of the arch, if necessary, change the shape of the arch by adjusting the degree of bending. They mark the junction points of the arch with the opening and put the corresponding marks on the plinth.

Drywall blanks

For the walls of the arch, you need to cut out two rectangles from the plasterboard. The dimensions of the workpiece are the width of the opening and the distance from the junction point of the arch in the opening to the overlap of the opening itself (or to the ceiling for new partitions).

Then, on one of the blanks, with the help of a plinth, the shape of the arch is modeled. To do this, aligning one of the marks on the plinth with the corner of the workpiece, it is bent until the second mark is aligned in the corner of the workpiece opposite in width. Draw an arc on the workpiece with a pencil and cut out the first wall. And already it will serve as a template for cutting the second wall.

To get a sector along the radius, it is better to use an awl, a nail and a pencil tied with a thread or rope. The length of the thread from the pencil to the nail will determine the radius of the sector.

L is the width of the opening, H is the height of the arch, R is the radius of the sector, D is the stock of material equal to the thickness of the finish of the ends of the opening

If an ellipse is needed, then two nails are fixed on the blank under the arch along the long side, stepping back the same distance from both sides by about 10–15 cm. A thread is tied to the nails so that it sags freely, and when pulled along the edge of the sheet, reaches its edge . The pencil is wound up by the thread and the shape of the arch is outlined.

For the vault of the arch, you can use a strip of ceiling plasterboard (it is thinner, only 9.5 mm), but the remainder of the standard sheet is also suitable, since with a small strip width it is easy to give it the necessary shape. The size of the blank for the arch is equal in length to the distance between the marks on the plinth, and in width - to the thickness of the wall in the opening. The narrow sides of the workpiece are cut at the ends along one side of the corner so that the vault fits snugly at the ends of the walls of the opening.

Arch frame formation

The supporting frame for the walls is usually made of a metal rack profile. Depending on the materials of the partition and its thickness, the width of the profile may vary.

So if the arch is mounted in an opening where the walls are made of gypsum board, then use the same CW rack profiles that are in the supporting structure. In this case, the profiles are fixed in the opening with metal screws.

For walls made of bricks, building blocks (gas or foam concrete, gypsum), monolithic concrete, the width of the rack profile is selected individually. It is often easier to use a double frame (one for each wall of the arch) from a narrow CW profile with a 50 mm back than to select a wide profile for a single frame. For fastening to the wall, dowels are used, and for each material they select their own type of fastener. If the frame is mounted from a narrow profile, the holes for the dowel are drilled at an angle so that the edge of the opening does not crumble.

For side posts, the profiles must have a length equal to the distance from the opening overlap to the junction points with the arch. Since the arch “fits” in the opening to the partition at an angle of less than 90 °, the lower corners of the profile are cut so that they do not protrude beyond the edge of the arch walls.

If the frame is mounted in a plasterboard partition, then it is clearly visible how it should be fixed so that the arch is flush with the wall surface.

For partitions made of other materials, when attaching the frame, it is necessary to retreat from the edge of the wall by a distance equal to the thickness of the plasterboard plus the thickness of the finish (and this is at least 1-2 mm per putty layer for wallpapering or painting).

If the wall has a layer of decorative plaster or is lined with wall panels, then the frame must be fastened to the main wall material so that the arch walls are in the same plane with the surface of the partition itself, and not with its decorative finish. This rule is performed on each side of the arch.

Arch installation

The walls of the arch are fixed with self-tapping screws with a distance between the attachment points of 15 to 25 cm, but not less than three points on each side. The distance from the corner to each extreme attachment point should be within 5–10 cm, and the attachment line should be 15–20 mm away from the edge of the arch wall.

If the arch has built-in lighting, then the wires should be laid in advance, leaving leads or loops at least 15 cm long

After both walls are fixed, two strips of an arched profile are screwed to them from the inside through drywall to fasten the arch. If there is no arched profile, then it is made from a CD profile, symmetrically cutting wedges on the sides at a distance of 4–5 cm from each other.

To bend the strip of the workpiece in an arc, it is moistened with a sponge on both sides before installation. Then, on the one hand, it is rolled with a needle roller (another way is to prick with an awl over the entire surface by 1/3 of the thickness of the sheet) and once again moisten only on the perforated side. They put it on the floor at an angle to it and the wall. When the workpiece begins to bend under its own weight, it is screwed into place to the arched profiles.

Finishing work

The final stage begins when the vault dries:

the surface of drywall is primed;
seams and joints with the wall are reinforced with sickle, and the ribs of the vault are reinforced with a plastic perforated corner;
putty, rubbing attachment points, seams and joints;
"bring out" the corners at the ribs;
dry and grind.

The arch is ready. You can start decorating.

Do-it-yourself drywall arch: step by step instructions

With the help of drywall, you can make arches of any configuration - oval, semicircular, arcuate, trapezoidal, lancet. Interior arches are able to visually expand the space and divide it into separate functional areas, as well as give the living space a design personality. To carry out the installation of a drywall arch with your own hands is within the power of any inhabitant, there would be a desire. And in order to remove all the questions that may arise during work, I give detailed instructions below.

Preparation of material and tools

We begin the work with the preparation of tools and materials. You will need:

From the tools we will prepare:

level;
tape measure, marker or pencil;
screwdriver or drill;
jigsaw;
construction knife and scissors for metal.

We draw a sketch and cut the blanks

We begin work on making an arch with our own hands from drywall by drawing a sketch and preparing blanks:

1. We measure the existing opening, from the top point to the place where the arch arch will end.

2. From drywall we cut out two rectangular elements corresponding to our previous measurements.

Advice: Cutting the material is very simple, for this you need to mark with a simple pencil or marker, by marking with a clerical knife with strong pressure we cut through the top layer of the material, then we slightly break the sheet along the cut, connect it, turn it over and cut it on the reverse side completely.

3. On the cut blank, we find the center and, stepping back from the bottom edge of about 1 cm, screw in the self-tapping screw, tie a fishing line or cord with a loop at the end to the self-tapping screw, insert a pencil into the loop, determine the desired radius of curvature, stretch the fishing line and draw a semicircle with a pencil.

4. With an electric jigsaw, we cut out the blank of the arch arch clearly along the drawn line. Then we combine the resulting blank with the second sheet, draw markings on it with a pencil and cut out a semicircle.

Arch installation

After preparing the blanks, you can proceed directly to the installation of the arch with your own hands from drywall:

Step 1. According to the dimensions of the prepared workpiece, we cut the required amount of a U-shaped profile 60 * 27. You should get 4 vertical and 2 horizontal elements equal in height and width to our workpiece.

Step 3. We attach both drywall blanks to the prepared frame. For a more reliable fastening, we keep the interval between the screws at 15 cm, screw the screws to the surface without pressing them into the base, otherwise we will have to fill in the depressions with putty, which will add unnecessary work.

Important: For mounting GKL with a thickness of 12.5 mm, the craftsmen recommend using wood screws with a size of 3.5 * 35; for thinner GKL sheets, you can use smaller screws.

Step 4. To stiffen the entire structure and fasten the lower part of the arch, it is necessary to install a curved profile 28 * 27 along the edges of the fixed sheets. This is done as follows: we carefully measure the arch and cut off the necessary section of the profile with scissors for metal, then we make cuts on the side edges of the profile every 10 cm and give it a bend in accordance with the contour of the arch. then we fasten its edges to the frame and every 10 cm we fasten it to the walls of the drywall.

Step 5. We fix the lower part of the arch. For this purpose, we need a curved strip of drywall, in order to bend the plasterboard, we need to do the following: measure the length and width of the arch, cut out the strip of plasterboard corresponding to the dimensions taken, mark vertical lines with a pencil every 10 cm, it is very important that the markings was perfectly even, and along the marked lines with a clerical knife we cut through the paper layer of the GKL.

Next, we combine the incised strip, with cuts upwards, with the edge of the arch, moving towards the opposite edge, we give the gypsum board the desired bend. Then, in the middle, we fasten it with screws to the guide profiles and, moving from the center to the edges, we fix the entire remaining strip with screws. The interval between fasteners is kept at 10cm. Protruding edges, carefully cut with a clerical knife.

In principle, on this, the assembly of a do-it-yourself arch from drywall can be considered complete, the question remains only about its finishing, but this topic is too extensive and we will talk about it in the next publication.

Video on the topic “do-it-yourself arch from drywall”:

Drywall arches - do-it-yourself replacement of standard rectangular doors with an original design

By removing swing doors, the owners increase the usable area. The device instead of them drywall arch - the easiest and most affordable option.

Drywall arches are created in a variety of shapes, differing mainly in the upper part. Many styles have been developed - from the simplest to the most complex. We will focus on those that even people without special skills can do. Having mastered the basics of creating arched openings, you can move on to more sophisticated designs.

One of the popular styles is classic with a strict top shape. This is a semicircle with a radius equal to half the width of the doorway. It looks good in an apartment of sufficient height when the doorway is at least 2.5 m. Suitable for any interior, but the best use is the entrance to the kitchen or a long corridor.

The portal, close to the classical style, only has a strict rectangular shape along the entire height. The option is ideal for wooden houses, apartments with clear horizontal and vertical lines. Right angles in this design look elegant. Often they give additional originality with carved wooden decorative elements.

The style of the classic semicircular arch is practically preserved in the elliptical one. Its vault is performed at different heights. Formula: the height of the vault is half the width, does not apply. Ideal for apartments with low ceilings.

An even more simplified vault is characteristic of the romantic style. The masters gave her the name "with rounded corners." The shape allows you to create designs of large width and relatively low. Ideal for decorating the passage to the balcony connected to the room.

The top of the Art Nouveau arch has a small radius of curvature, a sharp transition at the junction with the vertical parts. Looks good in rooms with a simple design. Often installed instead of a door to a balcony or office.

Trapezoidal shape attracts supporters of non-standard design. The asymmetrical interior arch also emphasizes the original taste of the owners. A popular form of recent times is the semi-arch. One side of it is semicircular, the other remains straight. Fits into modern styles of minimalism, hi-tech, art decor.

The shape and design should be consistent with the overall design. The width of the arch, the height of the room are taken into account. Before making the arch, we determine the parameters, especially those relating to the radius of curvature. Classic is suitable for apartments with ceilings from three meters. For arches in place of standard doorways, rounded corners are recommended. A wide opening is best designed in modern style.

Tip: in order to visually assess how the door arch will fit into the interior, we make a template and apply it to the doorway.

We start with a project that we draw to scale. We outline the location, the type of arch. We indicate the dimensions and all the distinguishing features. It is even better to make a template that will help for further work, especially for a novice master.

In the work you will need tools: a puncher with a drill, a screwdriver or a drill, a jigsaw, a drywall knife, a hammer. For measurements, you need a tape measure, a level. We fasten everything with self-tapping screws, if the opening is brick - with dowels. We purchase UD and CD profiles from materials. For a wooden frame, you will need pieces of timber. We buy drywall for ordinary rooms simple, for places with high humidity - moisture resistant.

Next, we prepare the doorway: we dismantle the canvas and the box. Depending on the intended size, you may need to expand the space. Plastering the sidewalls is not worth it: everything will be covered with sheets of drywall. We remove the exfoliated plaster, align the side parts. We do not achieve an ideally vertical state: it is important that the sidewalls are more or less even for reliable fastening of the profile rails.

If we plan the backlight, we bring the wiring in advance. On uneven walls, the depth of the arch is determined by the greatest thickness. All measurements are carried out in several places, so as not to be mistaken. The arched arch takes up to 15 cm, and the distance to the ceiling is required at least 20. Do not forget about this when calculating and marking the arch.

We cut two pieces of a metal profile along the width of the arch. Four more will be needed for the sidewalls. Their length is equal to the height minus the thickness of the profile rail. For installation on a concrete or brick wall, we make holes with a perforator, install dowels, fasten the profiles with self-tapping screws. For fastening to wooden walls, we do without dowels, we use self-tapping screws 50 mm long.

We retreat from the plane of the wall to a distance equal to the thickness of the drywall. For plaster, add another 2 mm. After 50 cm, we install reinforcing crossbars that reach from below to the place where the upper arcuate piece of drywall will join the sidewalls. To fix the arcuate element, you will need to install additional profiles, but at this stage we do not mount them. We have a base to which we will attach the skin.

For some reason, for many, the arcuate part causes special difficulty. You can read a lot of instructions for its manufacture with calculations and formulas. Maybe math lovers use them, but in practice everything turns out much easier, you don’t need to remember the school course.

We take a piece of plasterboard, equal in width to the doorway, from which we will cut an arc. You will need a straight, better wooden rail, at one end of which we drive in a carnation. On the sheet we find the middle, draw a line. For a classic arch, from the second end of the rail, we also drive in a carnation at a length from the first, equal to half the width of the arch.

Along the centerline, we retreat from the top of the sheet so that the top nail is at its edge, and the bottom one is pressed into the drywall. We have a kind of circle. We take the planks by the top and draw a semicircle, leaving a trail from the top stud. We have outlined the dimensions of the upper part of the classic arch. If you need an oval one, move the lower point down along the axis, as much as you want to reduce the height, and outline the cut line.

Cut out the arc along the outlined outline. We do this with a drywall or metal file. You can use a jigsaw, but there is a lot of dust from it. An uneven cut, which may turn out, is leveled with sandpaper, ensuring that the curve comes out in perfect shape.

We perform further actions in the following sequence:

1. Using self-tapping screws, we fasten a rectangle with a cut-out arc to the frame. On the opposite side, we temporarily screw the same one.
2. We take a square, apply it to an unmarked sheet and draw points with a pencil that correspond to the cut out arc. We make them larger in order to draw the most accurate curve on them.
3. We remove the cut of the sheet and draw a line along the points. We cut off the excess and set the second arc to a permanent place.

A copy of the first arc should not be made: asymmetry is not ruled out, so installing a second sheet with an absolute match of the contours is problematic.

We take a trowel so that its width is enough for two sheets, and align them. Then we set profiles between them. They need to be bent. We make cuts on the sidewalls with scissors, bend, adjust in place. We fix it with screws to drywall, holding the rail with a bar so as not to injure our fingers. We expose the back of the profile rail at the same level with the edge of the arcuate element.

Having attached both strips, we install jumpers between them. We cut the profile into pieces with a length that is 1 cm less than the depth of the arch. In the places where the jumpers are attached to the installed profile, we cut out the sidewalls from the inside and install the prepared fragments. Jumpers give the necessary rigidity.

Next, we mount the sidewalls on both sides. The arc also needs to be closed with drywall. To do this, you have to bend it. To the ignorant, this may seem impossible, because they are convinced that the standard GKL is both fragile and rigid - it does not want to bend, it breaks. How to give it the desired bend, speech ahead.

For surfaces with curved lines, thin drywall is available. You can buy a sheet and set the required segment. But the logic turns on: why buy a whole one if you need a small piece, which is full of purchased sheets of standard thickness? In general, everything is correct: a thick sheet can also be bent.

Usually a simple and fast method is used. The cut-to-size workpiece is laid on a flat surface with the right side up. We take a square and after 10 cm across we draw lines with a pencil. We make cuts along them, approximately ⅔ of the thickness. The square is not mandatory, but desirable: along the parallel, the bend will turn out to be of better quality. For arches with large bends, this method is most suitable.

We turn the workpiece with cuts up, apply it to the arch. We fix the upper part with screws. From the center we gradually move to the end. We screw in the screws every 10 cm on both sides. The effort required is small, the sequence is mirrored. We do everything gradually, slowly, then the GKL will bend almost perfectly.

For those who do not like or do not know how to plaster, another method is recommended. Indeed, on drywall, curved according to the previous method, you will have to apply more than one layer of plaster. A very steep bend in the proposed method, which is called wet, is difficult to obtain, but possible. Its advantages are that the bent fragment remains intact, it is not necessary to mask the damage with plaster: a regular finishing layer is applied.

You will have to buy a roller with needles and make a template for bending. No special skills are required, but the process is lengthy, technological breaks must be observed. We do it as follows:

1. Cut out semicircle templates from a fairly rigid material. We install them vertically and fasten them together.
2. A sheet of drywall of the desired size is laid on a plane and rolled with a roller. Moisten with water, but not too much so that it seems slightly wet.
3. After 10 minutes of exposure, put the workpiece on the template - the non-rolled side from the bottom. The workpiece itself begins to sag, we carefully help, without applying excessive effort.
4. We wait about half an hour until moisture is felt to the touch. You don’t need to wait any longer, it can dry out and brittleness will return.

The frame sheathed with drywall is a semi-finished product, it was better not to start without a high-quality finish at the finish line. Many do not like this stage - it is better to cut, drill, fasten than to deal with mortar and sandpaper. Yes, the work is not easy, but necessary, since they undertook to do everything with their own hands.

First, apply a primer and let it dry. Those who ignore this step, wanting to save money and time, are wrong. It is the primer layer that allows the plaster to adhere securely to the surface and not be torn off over time. We use acrylic putty, but it is better to apply a special one for drywall joints to the seams. It is more durable, does not crack later.

We close up joints, possible defects on drywall and self-tapping screw heads. We try not to apply a lot of putty, otherwise you will have to remove it later. We pass with a spatula, taking away the excess. To hide irregularities, to give strength, to prevent cracking, we glue the joints with fiberglass mesh. We impose segments of the desired length on fresh putty. We make sure that there are no wrinkles. If it doesn't line up, it's best to tear it off and try again.

We glue the bend of the arch with a mesh. There are bound to be wrinkles here. To eliminate them, we cut the mesh in these places and glue it. Immediately apply the second layer on the grid. We wait until it dries: it will turn completely white. Smoothen the surfaces with sandpaper. Do not overdo it: the grid should not be exposed. If this happens in some places, it is undesirable, but not terrible.

We clean from dust and apply the next layer over the entire surface. Again, we wait until it dries, and we grind, but with paper with a finer grain size. The final layer is applied on a thoroughly cleaned surface. We are waiting for a long time for the putty to dry well. The next day we are engaged in grinding, using the finest sandpaper.

Sometimes it is enough to paint the arch to give it a finished and elegant look. But many want to achieve originality using the following techniques:

sheathed with wood or plastic;
paste over with wallpaper, veneer;
use artificial stone trim;
decorate with mirrors, mosaics;
decorate with stucco, columns;
arrange lighting.

You can use any option, the main thing is harmony with the general style.

Induction heating: DIY

Today, in order to transform your house or apartment, you do not need to break walls, knead mortars and lay bricks. Difficult and dirty work successfully replaces drywall! Currently, it is the most convenient in installation, and therefore the most popular finishing material.

With it, you can easily make a multi-level ceiling, build a partition, decorate a doorway with columns or pilasters, and much, much more. But in our article we will focus on how to make a drywall arch with our own hands.

Plasterboard wall with an arch, complemented by a vertical railing structure

We will consider all stages as detailed as possible, with all possible details and nuances. We hope that the instructions presented in the article will help you understand the technology of building arches and repeat everything in practice.

Choosing an arch design

Domed symmetrical arch- the classic version.

dome arch

Asymmetric - an arch with a displaced center. Perhaps one of the simplest and most economical designs, suitable for almost any interior.

asymmetrical arch

gothic arch, in which the highest point is obtained due to the planes converging at a small angle.

gothic arch

Openwork arch. The main difference between this design is the presence of through-type holes running along the line of the doorway.

Openwork arched design

Designer or multi-level arch. In order to realize such a plan, you need to have a little imagination and skills in working with drywall. By the way, we will talk about how to make a complex arch a little later.

Multi-level drywall arch

Stop your choice is on the design of the arches, which will harmoniously fit into the rest of the interior of the room.

Note! If the height of the doorway is 2 meters or less, then making a drywall arch in the corridor will be an irrational solution, as it will “eat up” an already small space. In this case, you can simply round off the upper corners in the doorway.

Learn also about how to arrange a drywall partition yourself.

All about installation

oblique arch

Luxurious french arch

If you wish, you can build an oblique arch, a French arch or any other, but in our article we will consider how a symmetrical domed plasterboard arch is made. So let's get started.

Required material and tools

drywall sheets (when building arches, it is recommended to use special plasterboards, 6.5 mm thick - they are best suited for creating curved structures);
rack metal profiles;
plastic dowels;
self-tapping screws for metal (3.5 mm by 25 mm and 4.2 mm by 13 mm);
metal scissors;
knife for cutting drywall or jigsaw;
pliers;
drill, screwdriver and perforator;
needle roller;
building level, tape measure, pencil;
sickle ribbon;
spatula and gypsum-based putty;
sandpaper for polishing the putty layer;
perforated corner for decorating the edges of the arch;
primer;
paint or wallpaper.

We are preparing an opening under the arch

Before you make a wall with a drywall arch, you need to thoroughly prepare the opening into which it will be mounted. To do this, you will have to dismantle the door frame in order to slightly increase the opening, since the arch will visually reduce its height. Next, we clean the surface from exfoliating materials, dirt and dust.

Related article: Bright bedroom with dark furniture - let's play in contrasts (20 photos)

Learn also about the principles of mounting a metal frame for drywall.

A good example of a dismantled door frame

Lateral plasterboard elements of the arch

As a rule, a classic arched arch consists of three drywall elements: 2 identical side parts and 1 curved part. To make side parts, we do the following with our own hands: using a tape measure, we measure the width of the opening and calculate the radius of the future arch.

Then we tie on a nylon thread, the length of which is equal to this very radius, two loops. We insert an awl into one loop, and a pencil into the other. Now we stick the awl into the drywall sheet and, evenly pulling the thread, draw an arc with a pencil.

Scheme for the manufacture of side parts of the arch

After that, with a jigsaw or an ordinary construction knife, we cut out the first side part of the arch along the drawn arc. We apply the cut out part to a new sheet of drywall, outline it with a pencil, cut it out and get the second side part of our arch. So, we partially answered the question of how to make drywall arches.

Lateral arched part

Installing the frame from the profile and fastening the side elements

How to make a drywall arch? Here it is important to take care of a reliable frame. Let's take a closer look at this step:

First, on top of the opening, with the help of dowels, a metal profile guide is attached. After that, the same guides are fixed to the wall, from two sides - from the upper corner to the place where the rounding of the arch will end.

Important! The length of the side guides must be the same, otherwise the arch will turn out to be a curve.

Then we make an arcuate profile from a conventional metal profile. To do this, you need to make cuts in it with scissors for metal and bend it, as in the photo. To make the frame as accurate as possible, we use the previously made side parts as a template. The profile is attached as follows: to the vertical guides - with dowels, and to the drywall - with self-tapping screws. Such arcuate parts will need 2 pieces.

Making cuts

The resulting arched profile

In order to make the frame more reliable, additional sections of the profile must be attached in the space between the two arcs.

Finished frame

The next step is to fix the side arcuate parts of the arch on the frame using self-tapping screws. Now let's move on to the curved element.

Here the sides are already fixed

Bending and installing a bent element

To accurately shape the lower end of the arch, it is necessary to cut off a flat strip of drywall of the appropriate length and width. When measuring length, it is better to use a flexible measuring meter. Also do not forget to add 10 cm to the length of the strip.

Ordinary water will help us to make a drywall end element in the form of an arc. Wet the underside of the strip, then pierce it with a spiked roller and leave for a while. After that, you can carefully place the curved element in the shape of an arch, fix it with adhesive tape and wait until it dries a little.

Attention! It is not necessary to wet the drywall too much, otherwise it will soften and crack.

A slightly damp strip can already be fastened with screws to the frame, along both sides. You need to start doing this from the middle of the arch. Now we are waiting for the drywall to dry completely (about 12 hours).

Securing a curved element

Answering the question of how to make an arch from drywall, you need to add that in addition to giving a bend to the arch in a wet way, you can also do this by cutting a layer of material. But this method is only suitable for creating small bends.

And it consists in the following:

On one side of the drywall, a layer of paper and gypsum is carefully cut through (almost to the full depth).
The future element of the arch is broken along the cuts made with a slight pressure. It is important here that the gypsum mixture remains on the intact layer of paper.
The slots are sealed with putty (if necessary, before that they are glued with a flying sickle).
The curved part is fastened with self-tapping screws to the frame. Please note that self-tapping screws should not be screwed in at the very edge of the drywall part in order to avoid its destruction. In addition, the caps of the self-tapping screws must be slightly sunk into the drywall.
Those places that have been puttyed are cleaned with sandpaper until a perfectly smooth surface is obtained.
Now the arch is ready for decorative cladding (for painting or wallpapering).

Finishing

Arch finishing

After the complete drying of the constructed structure, it is time for its finishing.

Again, we will walk through this process step by step:

First of all, we go through all the elements of the drywall arch with fine sandpaper. Thus, we remove all the bumps and as a result we get beautiful rounded protrusions.
Then we seal the mounting seams with a special putty for the seams, not forgetting to glue the joints with a serpentine tape.
Before you start puttying, it is necessary to fix the corner perforated profiles made of galvanized metal or plastic (they are needed so that the corners of the arch keep their shape). Such profiles are attached to the putty and then also covered with a layer of putty.
We wait for the putty to dry completely, after which we clean all the bumps with the help of the same sandpaper.
Now apply a layer of primer, wait until it dries.
We putty the arch with a special finishing compound and grind it for the last time.
Everything! The arch is ready for decoration.

Choosing a decorative finish

We figured out how drywall arches are made. However, mounting the arch is only half the battle.

And how beautifully ennoble the resulting design? After all, it is necessary to take into account not only originality and compliance with the entire interior, but also practicality.

The arch will be periodically subjected to contact with people passing through it or objects carried through it, which is fraught with damage.

Therefore, let's think together which decorative coating is most suitable for her.

Wallpapering. Quite a frequent choice of those who are thinking about how to make a drywall door arch. Traditional cladding. But thanks to the unlimited range of wallpapers, a wide variety of colors, textures and patterns, such decoration can turn out to be very interesting and exclusive. As for practicality, it all depends on the material from which the wallpaper you have chosen is made. Non-woven vinyl wallpapers are considered the highest quality and most durable. Wallpaper with a three-dimensional pattern will look amazing.

Arch covered with wallpaper

Painting with water-based paint. Perhaps the best option, from a practical point of view. The painted arch can be washed as much as you like, and it will be quite resistant to damage.

painted arch

Note! The arch will require little paint, so we recommend that you do not skimp on expensive, high-quality paint. The price will pay off doubly - this will make your design even more reliable.

Alternatively, after applying the paint, you can decorate the arch with a beautiful painting along the entire arc - it is important to have imagination and some artistic skills here.

Sheathing the entire opening with decorative fabrics is very extraordinary and noble. The most diverse material can be used: linen, satin, jute, brocade, jacquard, viscose and so on. All fabrics have their own special texture, pattern and color. But, I must say that this option is not suitable for every apartment, it all depends on the size and style of the interior.