How to make an iron ax do-it-yourself drawings. How to make a good ax handle for an ax - step by step instructions and drawings

The ax is considered an equally important tool in household, during a simple hike or hunt, like a knife. It is not always possible to take it if people are going to hike light, but for such a case there is different types this fixture. About how to create axes various kinds can be found below.

battle ax

The combat product is distinguished by the presence of a small butt and a small, simple blade. This is a fairly light standard hatchet with dimensions up to 0.8 kg on a long handle (from 0.5 m and more). The product comes in different types.

In order to make this ax, you need to work with a standard carpenter's blade. The top piece will have to be cut off to create a straight line. The bottom edge of the chopping head is removed with a hook, and a simple blade is rounded from below.

Next, the surface of the device is cleaned to a shine and burned with a flame of fire. The nozzle of this product should be such that the bottom edge of the blade and the tip of the ax handle are connected by a certain line, which will help to avoid auxiliary loads on the handle.

The best material for creating an ax would be butt of a simple birch. On the ax handle, where the loop of the head will end, it is necessary to make a hole obliquely, and then create a slot for the wedge near the created hole. Then the head must be planted on the ax handle, and a wedge smeared with glue should be driven into the slot.

wood product

A wooden hatchet cannot be compared with the work of an iron one. but sometimes you really need it. Due to its light weight, it is easy to take it on a hike to cut simple branches, and it can also be used as a weapon for training or at home.

How to create this product? The ax handle and the head can be made both individually and as a whole structure. The material is selected strong, dry, without fibers. It is worth taking oak or maple.

To create a blade and an ax handle in a separate process, you will need 2 chocks, sawn in half, on which a template is placed. Then they just stick together and connect completely. The blade of the device must be sharpened and burned with a flame or covered with a plate of steel made in accordance with its bend.

Ax for hunting

A hunting tool must have excellent handle balance. to make the right shots. It is best to use an all-metal fixture, because the likelihood that the ax handle will fall apart when cutting a carcass or when cutting the bones of an animal will decrease. If there is no chance to forge such a product, you can make it yourself from a blade and a wooden ax handle.

Before creating an ax created for hunting or fishing trips, it is necessary to make a thin wedge-shaped blade. The blade is processed with a disc with a small abrasive, you should try to give it a round shape (but not like a semicircle) and not overdo it with sharpness.

Then you need to temper the iron. To create an ax handle, a special birch, mountain ash or elm is used. To find out the correct length of the ax handle, you need to take it by one end, while the particle with the nozzle for the product should touch the ankle. When putting the blade on the part, its end must be wedged for better fixation. After that, an oblique cut is made and a wedge is placed.

It's great if the wedge is created from the same material as the ax handle. It can be put on glue, and if the inside of the butt is loosened, the problem will be quickly solved if the device is soaked in some water. Do not use a wedge made of metal, because it will begin to rust and spoil the tree.

For hunting birds and small game, an ax handle is created light, weighing up to a thousand grams, up to sixty centimeters long. To hunt a large animal, its length must be at least 65 centimeters, and its weight must be one thousand grams. You also need to look at the height and weight of the person who hunts.

Hand ax handle

Drawings are primarily required to create this product. This is a very important device that is easy to make. In order to make it, you will need:

  • Wood preparation.
  • Knife.
  • Carpentry tool.
  • Cutting fixture.
  • Pencil.
  • File.
  • Hammer.

The creation process itself will be performed in a specific order:

  • Create a template on paper. The ax handle of the finished fixture is placed on cardboard and circled with a simple pencil. Cut out.
  • A bar is made from dried wood. That particle of the workpiece, on which the ax part will be placed, must exceed the dimensions of the metal eye by two or three mm.
  • The contours of the template are transferred to a wood blank. It is worth leaving a margin of ten mm in the front, and ninety mm in the back.
  • Cuts are created transversely along the upper and lower parts of the wooden bar, the depth of which by a couple of mm does not reach the selected contours of the ax handle.
  • The fitting nozzle of a metal part is performed by hitting a mallet. If everything fits, clean up.
  • An almost finished base is ground with a blade everywhere. They try to smooth corners and transitions with a file. At the end, everything is polished with sandpaper.
  • With the help of a small hammer, a knife and a chisel, the workpiece is finished to the required shape. A knife is put in place of the saw cut and slowly knocked out with a hammer. That's all, the ax for the ax is done.

An ax is one of the most famous and affordable tools in the arsenal of most summer residents and professional craftsmen. If you use it correctly, you can simplify many workflows, resulting in an excellent result. An ax can not only be bought ready-made in a specialized store, but also made at home. It doesn't take much time, effort and Money. Today we will take a closer look at how to properly make an ax handle with your own hands.


How to select and prepare wood?

Many jobs are impossible without a well-sharpened and strong axe. This tool is often needed both in household and larger-scale work. In retail outlets, you can find many different models of such tools, because there are quite a few types of axes themselves. It is possible to choose the ideal option in accordance with any requirements.



But there are also cases when the consumer could not find a suitable tool for himself. Many people in such situations find a simple way out for themselves - they make an ax on their own. In order for the tool to turn out to be of high quality, reliable and durable, it must consist of good elements. So, to create an ax handle, it is very important to choose the right suitable material.


Not every type of wood is suitable for creating this ax detail. It is believed that a real master will go around the whole forest before he finds the very tree from which it will be possible to make an ax handle. In most cases, the indicated element of the ax is constructed from the root section of the birch, and even better if the growths that are present on its trunk are used. These parts are distinguished by a very dense and wavy structure.


Birch is not single tree, which can result good ax handle. Instead, it is permissible to refer to trees such as oak, maple, acacia, ash and others. deciduous trees relating to hard rocks. According to experienced craftsmen, beech, oak, larch, walnut and elm produce the most reliable, comfortable and durable handles. High Quality. But it is not enough to find the ideal material for making an ax handle. We still need to properly prepare it for the upcoming work.



The blanks must be dried well. This is done only in natural conditions, and it often takes a very long time - an average of 3-4 years, and even longer is better (5 years will be enough). Wood should be dried exclusively in a dark and dry place where there is good ventilation. Precipitation, dampness and water should not penetrate into the space where natural material will be prepared. Otherwise, there will simply be no sense in such drying, and it will not work to make a good ax handle.



How to make a template?

If you have the material already prepared and dried to the desired degree, then you should proceed to the next step in creating an ax handle. Next, you will need to competently make a convenient template, which will be a great helper in further work.


Here it is important to take into account the fact that there are quite strict rules governing the shape of the ax handle based on the main type of device. So, light tools, the weight of which is usually from 0.8 to 1 kg, are usually made with a handle having a length of 0.4-0.6 m. As for the more “serious” heavy axes, there is a length of 0.55-0.65 m. It must also be taken into account that all existing species axes are divided according to their main functionality.

So, the following types of these tools are distinguished:

  • carpentry;
  • lumberjack;
  • branchy;
  • cleaver;
  • butcher's.





Before proceeding with the independent design of such a tool, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the detailed drawings of different models of handles.

When making a template, a number of important features should be taken into account.

  • So that in the process of work the ax does not slip out and does not jump out of the hands at the moment of swing, its “tail” must be made a little wider than the place of capture.
  • When making an ax handle for a cleaver, it is necessary to make a part 0.75-0.95 m long. Carpentry tools are made short. Their handle generally reaches the mark of 0.5 m.
  • To the parameter of the length of the handle, the will of the butt must be added another 8-10 cm for an allowance. It will be possible to cut it off after installing the butt. It is very important to ensure that the tree at this moment does not begin to split.


Template with it correct form and all sizes will need to be applied to paper or cardboard sheet.

Step by step instructions for making

It is not difficult to prepare an ax with your own hands. To do this, you must adhere to a not very complex technology for the work. Let's get to know her:

  • mark the workpiece using a template;
  • after that, it can be carefully cut with a jigsaw or other similar tool;
  • further, the prepared part will need to be turned on a special machine and polished.


There are a number important rules which must be adhered to in the course of work.

  • The processing of the fixing place of the ax handle must be carried out to the maximum carefully and accurately so as not to accidentally remove the excess part of the tree. Otherwise, the butt simply cannot be tightly fixed in its place. It is better to periodically try on the handle to the eye, so that in the end you get a small margin (no more than 2 cm).
  • Do not use a file in the process of finishing the part. This will inevitably loosen the tree. Because of this, it will be more difficult to work with him further. It is better to use not a file, but a finely abrasive sandpaper with a grinder. You will need to move the tool along the wood fibers.
  • Give the final, correct and nice shape the fixing place of the handle is necessary, taking into account the angle of the butt attachment. As for the cleaver, for him the indicated angle should be approximately 85 degrees. For a standard ax - 75 degrees.


At self-manufacturing ax handles must be handled very carefully. It's not worth rushing. If desired, you can decorate the handle of the tool with patterns and carved decorations (for example, you can wrap it with jute cord - it will also hold the blade more securely). When the ax handle is ready, it will be necessary to correctly install the cutting part on it.

Let's consider how to do it.

  • Adjust the top of the piece to fit the eye of the blade. Remove the excess part of the tree with a knife. Be careful.
  • On the handle, set horizontally, the cutting part must be placed on top. Then you need to put a mark on the handle with a pencil, to which it will drive in. Divide the segment and set another mark.
  • Lock the handle in a vertical position using a vise. The wide piece should be at the top. Prepare a hacksaw for metal. Make a cut exactly to the second mark under the wedge.


  • In specialized point of sale pick up a wedge from metal or make it yourself from wood.
  • Lay out the board on a separate countertop. Put a blade on it. Put it upside down. Throw the prepared ax on this part, tapping it on the board. Now turn the fixture over and tap the handle on the board. The part will continue to fit. These steps should be repeated many times. As a result, it will turn out to drive the ax into the eye well.
  • Then set the part in a vertical position. Install a wedge in the cut. Hit him with a mallet. Saw off excess protruding parts


How to protect from decay?

The wood from which the ax is made, like other similar materials, is subject to decay. Such problems always arise over time or in inappropriate storage conditions for the instrument. It is important to take care of a homemade ax in advance, protecting it from decay. Strongly not recommended for protection wooden handles use compositions such as varnishes or paints. The ban on the use of such compounds is due to the fact that their presence on the handle can lead to its slipping out of the hands during certain work. The reason for this is the glossy smooth texture.


The optimal solution to protect the ax from rotting, other suitable impregnations will become. You can cover the handle with linseed oil or good old drying oil. There are other highly effective antiseptics that will extend the life of natural wood. But keep in mind that they will need to be applied periodically. Don't forget this process.


Some masters add to antiseptic protective equipment red pigment. They turn to such a trick not at all to make the tool more interesting. appearance. After this coating, the ax will be much easier to find in the grass, because its color will become brighter.

Please note that the ax handle should be made so that its cross section has a characteristic oval shape. Only by observing this condition, it will be possible to successfully hold it, without straining the hand too much. Ax strikes will be more accurate and easier. It is recommended to make wood blanks for creating an ax handle in late autumn. It is during this period that the movement of juices is minimized (almost stops), which means that the tree becomes, as it were, dehydrated.


Many inexperienced craftsmen neglect the drying of wood for the construction of an ax handle. As a result, this ends with the fact that the handle changes in size, and the metal part with the butt on it is held very poorly. It is permissible to deal with undried material only in special situations, when the handle needs to be built urgently, and this spare part is made as a temporary one.


When making a brand new ax handle yourself, you need to draw up a detailed drawing / template of the future tool. If you have a very handy old ax in your arsenal, then you can remove all parameters from it. This will make it much easier and more convenient. Do not rush to turn the cutting edge of the tool. First you need to make sure that the metal is sufficiently hard. If it turns out to be too soft, then it will need to be additionally hardened under the influence of high temperatures.


It is permissible to start sharpening the ax blade only after it is installed on the ax handle.

A ready-made ax (both homemade and store-bought) is very important to use correctly. Experienced craftsmen strongly do not recommend trying to cut various metal parts with such a device. Even if you plan to cut wood, it's best to make sure there are no solids inside that could harm the tool.


It is strongly not recommended to throw the finished tool on hard surfaces, especially from a great height. The ax is not recommended to be left outdoors. Precipitation or aggressive sunlight may adversely affect the quality wood detail. Keep such an instrument in a dark and dry place. Only under this condition will the ax serve you for many years.


A tool with ready-made ax handles is always on sale. But what is offered in specialized stores is not always suitable. The length of the ax handle should be such that it is convenient for the master to work. But each person has his own height and strength. Therefore, it is better to make an ax with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself wood harvesting for an ax handle

In order to make an ax handle with your own hands, you must first select the appropriate material. It is better to do this in late autumn: at this time of the year, sap flow practically stops and the wood will be as dense and dry as possible. The following types of wood are suitable for an ax handle:

  • hornbeam;
  • rowan (old tree);
  • ash;
  • acacia;
  • Apple tree.

The highest density is characterized by birch wood, taken from the root section of the trunk. The hatchet from it will last a long time.

Tip: to make an ax handle, you need to stock up on wood in such an amount that you get several blanks. During operation, some workpieces may be damaged or rejected.

Blanks for an ax handle

Drying blanks for ax handle

Do-it-yourself ax handle should be made from dry wood. Drying of blanks in natural conditions should be carried out within 3-4 years. Drying conditions: dark and dry ventilated area, protected from precipitation.

Important: making an ax handle with your own hands from insufficiently dry material will not desired result. Further drying of the wood will cause it to warp and warp.

We make a template for an ax handle with our own hands

Exists strict rules, regulating the shape of the ax handle, depending on the type of tool. For light axes (0.8 - 1.0 kg), the handle is made 0.4 - 0.6 m long, and for heavy axes (up to 1.4 kg) - 0.55 - 0.65 m. Axes also differ in according to its function:

  • lumberjack;
  • carpentry;
  • branchy;
  • cleaver;
  • butcher's ax

Types of axes depending on the functional purpose

How to make an ax with your own hands: drawings various models.

When making a template, consider the following.

  1. In order for the ax handle not to jump out of the hand when swinging, its tail part is made slightly wider than the gripping one.
  2. An ax for a cleaver with your own hands should be made in a length of 0.75-0.95 m. Carpenters' axes with a shorter ax handle - about 0.5 m.
  3. To the length of the ax to the will of the butt, you need to add 8-10 cm for an allowance. It can be cut off after the butt is put on. It is important that the wood does not split.

What allowance should be left when making an ax handle with your own hands - a video for your attention.

Note: the template can be obtained by attaching to the workpiece and outlining the finished ax good quality. In this case, do not forget to add an allowance.

Ax manufacturing technology

To understand how to make an ax handle with your own hands, you should familiarize yourself with the technology. The whole process consists of three stages:

  • marking the workpiece using a template;
  • sawing the workpiece with a jigsaw or other tool;
  • turning and grinding.

There are several rules that must be observed in the process of work.

  1. The processing of the fixing section of the ax should be done carefully so as not to remove excess wood. Otherwise, the butt will not sit snugly in its place. The ax must be periodically tried on to the eye in order to eventually leave a margin of about 2 mm.
  2. It is not recommended to use a file when finishing the part: this loosens the wood and complicates its further processing. the best way considered to be the use of finely abrasive sandpaper with grinder. The movement of the tool is along the fibers.
  3. It is necessary to give the final shape to the fixing section of the ax handle, taking into account the angle of the head of the butt. For a cleaver, this angle is chosen equal to 85°, for an ax - 75°.

Wedging an ax handle

Making an ax handle with your own hands: a video for those who use conventional tools in their work.

How to protect an ax handle from rotting

The wood of the ax under the influence of moisture gradually becomes unusable. The instrument must be protected from damage. For processing the handle, you can not use covering agents, which include paints and varnishes. In this case, the tool may slip out of your hand. For protection, it is recommended to use drying oil or linseed oil. There are other antiseptics that are absorbed into the wood.

It is necessary to process the ax handle in several steps. Each new stage processing should be carried out after complete absorption of the previously applied agent.

Treatment of the ax handle with a protective agent

Tip: You can add a bright red pigment to the ax handler. As a result, the tool will be clearly visible in thick grass and can be easily found in case of loss.

At the end of the article on how to make an ax handle with your own hands - a video where the master clearly demonstrates the basic working methods.

He is the real "king" of carpenter's tools. He is the true salvation for those who are lost in the forest. He is a faithful assistant if you need to chop wood for a bath, build a house or butcher game. A well-sharpened ax can be used in dozens of other situations, but the fact remains. The tool will be useful in any suburban economy.

The only difficulty that an economic person may have is the purchase of a solid, high-quality ax. More and more often you are convinced that it is much easier and more reliable to build an ax with your own hands. So let's look at the entire manufacturing process, starting from the preparation of an ax handle and ending with sharpening.

Making an ax handle step by step

The process of creating an ax with your own hands always takes place in a strict sequence. First, a tool handle is made, called an ax handle. When the length and shape of the handle are matched correctly, the tool literally "burns", demonstrating high performance and ease of use.

Try to take a stick with the usual round cross section and plant an iron base. You will quickly get tired, because holding such a tool for a long time, the hand experiences a strong tension. Another thing is when the ax handle has curved shape, the tail part is expanded and slightly bent down. Thanks to this design, the axes are firmly held in the hands even with strong blows.


The traditional ax tool consists of wedges (2 and 9), a blade (3) and a butt (1), a toe (4), a chamfer (5) and a heel on the blade (6), a beard (7), and the handle itself (8). The number 10 indicates sharpening.

We prepare the material and cut out the first template

Since we need to make an ax from wood, we will take this material as a basis. Best of all, designs made of birch and oak, ash and maple have proven themselves.

A wooden ax can be made at any time of the year, but it is better to harvest the material for it in the fall, even before the onset of frost. The blanks are stored in the attic for at least a year, some experts advise drying them for five or even more years.

It is clear that if the taiga ax donated by grandfather was broken on an impregnable deck with your own hands, you can also take a fresh tree. This option will still be temporary, because after drying, the volume of wood decreases. The butt of the ax will begin to stagger, hold on less tightly.

To prepare a good template, drawings of the future product are desirable.

When there is a cardboard template, it is much easier to transfer the contours of the designed product to the tree. A ready-made ax handle is taken as the basis, with which you are comfortable working. It is outlined with a simple pencil on cardboard and cut out.


Preparation for the work of the beam

From the bar-blank to the careful extrusion of the ax handle

  • Before you make an ax, you need to carve a bar from a dried chock. Keep in mind that the length of the piece of wood must exceed the planned size. finished product about 10 cm. As for the width in front (fitted onto the canvas), ideally it exceeds the diameter of the metal eye by 2-3 mm.
  • Place the finished template on the bar and transfer its contours. Leave an allowance of 1 cm in front, and 9 cm in the tail part of the workpiece. Before you put the ax on the ax handle, you will inflict more than a dozen blows on the handle. An allowance in the "tail" is needed to avoid splitting it. When final assembly is over, you can easily cut it off.
  • We proceed to the main part of the work with the ax handle. In the upper and lower parts of the bar, transverse cuts are made with a depth not reaching 0.2 cm to the contours. A chisel is used to chip off excess wood along the cuts, the final cut is made with a rasp.
  • Use a regular file or rasp to round corners, smooth curves and transitions. Sandpaper will help with the final sanding.
  • It is still too early to install a steel sheet - the wood is impregnated with a solid waterproof composition. Linseed oil is suitable, drying oil has excellent properties. Apply a small amount of the substance to the ax handle, let dry. Then the next layer is applied. The procedure is repeated until the instrument made by you personally stops absorbing it.
  • The biggest mistake is to coat the wooden base with varnish or oil paint. However, nothing prevents you from adding a little dye to drying oil (red, yellow). A bright instrument will never get lost in thick grass.

How did our ancestors choose the canvas for the hatchet?

Several hundred years have passed, but the method of buying a good canvas has not changed. Our ancestors knew how to make an ax out of wood and what kind of metal base to use. They have always paid attention to:

  • Steel quality. By the way, today this issue is solved simply. Look for the GOST badge on the product - this will be an indicator of excellent quality. No OST and TU!
  • Blade. The ideal blade has no cracks and dents, very even.
  • Butt ends. They are strictly perpendicular to the blade.
  • Eyelet shape. It is better when it is made in the form of a cone.

How to put an ax on an ax handle (video)

When the canvas is selected, a completely logical question arises: how to properly plant an ax on an ax handle and achieve a “dead” fastening? Start by drawing the center lines at the end. There will be two of them, perpendicular and longitudinal. The groove to the depth of the eye must be cut exactly along the contour of the longitudinal line. The cut will be useful for wedging the ax handle.

Having attached the butt to the end, outline the contours of the eye on it - the center lines will be a guide. Use a knife or planer to trim the landing part of the ax handle. It is important that the ax handle does not protrude beyond the edges of the eye by more than 1 cm.

It is convenient to fit the canvas with the help of hammer blows. Do it accurately, with effort, but without too much pressure. You don't want your punches to crack the wood, do you? As soon as the butt went beyond the boundaries, we check the strength of the fit, we look at how the canvas sits. It shouldn't slide off.

Wedge by wedge knock out or wedging method

You can strengthen the fastening of the metal part if you do a wedging. To do this, a small wedge is driven into the butt, made of hardwood - for example, oak. Because of this, the dimensions of the landing part grow, and it is fixed “tightly”.

Some craftsmen use not one, but two or even five wedges. But as practice shows, even one additional fixation is quite enough.


Wedging an ax. Drawing

A proven way to sharpen an ax blade

Sharpening an ax is the initial task after your tool is made and ready to use. Only in this case the product will perform the main function.

For working with freshly cut wood, the sharpening angle in perfect tool is 20 degrees, dry wood - from 25 to 30 degrees. Equally important is the width of the chamfer.


Sharpening an ax by hand

How to sharpen an ax on a conventional electric grinder

Stock up on a container in which you will cool the metal in advance. Next, do this:

  • Hold the product in such a way that the blade can be directed towards the rotation of the disc. We hold the butt at an angle of forty-five degrees. This is the optimal sharpening angle, regardless of the type of tool, its features.
  • To sharpen the ax, it moves smoothly along the circle. The chamfer is ground, the angle of the sharpening being performed is sharpened.
  • The final sharpening of the ax is always done with a special whetstone. From time to time it needs to be moistened in water to cool the metal.
  • If it is not possible to sharpen the hatchet with a bar, it is replaced with a piece of plywood, which is pasted over with sandpaper.

Do not forget that working with a sharp tool is always a pleasure, while a blunt ax means more additional and completely unnecessary effort, quick fatigue and not a good result. After the work on the manufacture and sharpening of the ax is completed, a sheath is put on the blade. This will extend the life of the product, and it will not need to be sharpened so often. The cover is made of leather, birch bark, any other suitable material.


Ax case

There is an opinion that the tool can be stored stuck in a log. This is a big misconception. Consisting of strong steel and a hand-made ax handle, the ax becomes an "extension" of the master's hands. Try chopping wood with a homemade tool - and you will no longer want to return to store products.

An ax is an indispensable tool in the household. Especially for those people who live in a private house or spend a lot of time in the country. You can make an ax yourself. If you follow all the rules of this work, then the tool will be reliable and will last a long time. Before you make an ax, you need to study the recommendations of professionals.

You can make an ax handle for almost any shape. It depends on what the tool will be used for. The manufacturing process includes several stages:

  • choice best options blanks;
  • ax making;
  • nozzle and wedging;
  • sharpening.

How to choose the stabbing part?

When choosing a stabbing part, first of all, you need to pay attention to the quality of the metal used for its manufacture. It is recommended to choose blanks with the GOST sign. With a large selection of different models, you can choose an ax empirically. If you flick the blade of one ax against the blade of another, then the higher quality metal will leave notches on the less reliable version.

You can check the tool by tapping it suspended. In this case, the quality of the metal is determined by the nature of the sounds.

  • there should be no defects on the surface of the blade;
  • the eyelet should be cone-shaped;
  • blade and eye must be coaxial;
  • the end of the butt should be perpendicular to the blade;
  • butt should not be too thick.

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Features of the manufacture of an ax handle

The length of the ax handle should be selected based on considerations of convenience for further operation. This takes into account the growth and strength of the master. For relatively light tool you will need to make an ax handle for an ax 40-60 cm long, heavier models can be with an ax handle 55-65 cm.

The quality of wood plays an important role in the choice of workpiece. Perfect option- the root part of a birch or growths on its trunk. It is permissible to use oak, maple, ash, acacia and other deciduous tree species.

The ax handle should have a thickening at the end, which will prevent the tool from slipping out of the hands. On the workpiece, it is necessary to make markings along the contour of the future handle and grind the excess wood with an electric jigsaw. After the initial processing, the blade and handle are tried on to each other using a mallet. If the parts fit tightly together, then you can proceed to the finishing of the wood surface.

First, looping is performed. This requires a piece of glass. Next, you need to sand the surface with sandpaper.

If the ax is easily inserted into the eye of the blade, then it will have to be completely redone using another blank for this. Simply inserting a wedge to seal the joint will not work. Back to index

Attachment of the blade on the handle

This stage is very important. Safety depends on it homemade tool. This work is carried out in stages:

  1. The upper edge of the ax is adjusted to fit the eye. All excess is cut off with a knife.
  2. A mark should be made on the handle to which the blade will be mounted. To do this, the ax handle is laid horizontally on the table, and a blade is placed on it. In the middle of the distance from the edge of the ax handle to the mark, you need to put another one.
  3. Clamp the handle in a vise in a vertical position. In this case, the wide part should be directed upwards. In a narrow one, you need to make a cut with a hacksaw to the upper mark. A wedge will be installed in it.
  4. From wood, you need to make a wedge of the same length as the depth of the cut, and the same width as the eye. Its thickness can vary between 0.5-1 cm.
  5. Set the blade upside down on the table. Install the ax into the eye and perform several taps, when the ax begins to enter it, you need to turn it over and tap with the lower end of the handle. This must be done until the blade is completely planted on the handle.
  6. Next, a wedge is inserted into the cut. It must be driven in with a mallet almost to the end or at least to the middle. The part that remains sticking out needs to be cut with a hacksaw.
  7. Next, the tool is lubricated with oil. You can use flaxseed, sunflower or motor. Excess should drain and the surface dry a little. After that, the hatchet is wiped.