Battle ax from the usual. Do-it-yourself ax (67 photos) - we create a combat, decorative and working tool

The result of activity - whether it is economic or industrial - depends not only on the perfection and quality of the tool used, but last but not least, on how convenient it is for a particular person. As for the handle of the purchased ax, it is often it that becomes the source of a number of problems - intense dulling cutting edge, regularly flying piercing part, rapid fatigue and so on.

Choice of wood

The fact that not every breed is suitable for making an ax handle is understandable. It is advisable to focus on ash, oak, maple, hornbeam, acacia, mountain ash (necessarily old), beech and even apple trees. But the best option nevertheless, a birch is considered, namely, the root part of a tree or growths on its trunk. Such wood is characterized by maximum density. Consequently, the durability of the ax handle is guaranteed.

It is better to harvest lumber in late autumn. At this time, the movement of juices practically stops, which means that the wood is relatively “dehydrated”.

Extract of samples

Even an experienced craftsman may not make a high-quality ax handle the first time. Therefore, it is necessary to stock up on several blanks for the ax handle. Opinions on the timing of their storage before processing differ, but everyone agrees on one thing - drying should be done for at least 3-4 years. Moreover, it cannot be accelerated artificially. The process should proceed naturally, and it is advisable to choose a dark and dry place for storing raw materials.

It is pointless to use “fresh” wood on the ax handle. As a result of the shrinkage of the material, it will begin to deform, which means that the handle will have to be constantly wedged, otherwise the metal will fly off. An undried tree is used only as a last resort, as an exception to the rule, in case of an urgent need to make an ax handle, at least for a while.

Template preparation

A good ax handle should have a strictly defined shape. Trying to stand it "by eye" is a hopeless business. The same applies to linear dimensions - they should be as close as possible to the recommended values.

Axes have different purposes. As a rule, a good owner has at least two of them. Cleaver and carpenter - a must. The dimensions and shape of the ax handle for each are clearly visible in the figure.

What to consider:

The "tail" is made somewhat larger in cross section than the gripping part. This ensures that the ax will not break out of the hands of the master during the work.
Since we all have different heights, arm lengths, then linear parameters ax handles are not standard. They vary within certain limits. First of all, this refers to its length (in cm). For a cleaver - from 750 to 950, for carpentry tools - about 500 (± 50). But it is necessary to leave the so-called allowance, first of all, from the side of the butt attachment (8-10 cm is enough). After it is tightly planted on the ax handle, without splitting the tree, it is easy to cut off the excess.

If the household has an ax that is convenient in all respects, then it is enough to transfer the contours of its handle to a sheet of cardboard and cut out a template using them.

Making an ax handle

With a sample, this is easy to do. The main stages of work are as follows:

workpiece marking;
sampling of excess wood (electronic / jigsaw, carpenter's knife, etc.);
finishing, polishing of the ax handle.

You should not rush to fine-tune the "to size" of the fixing part. In the process of processing the ax handle, you need to constantly monitor how tightly it is fitted to the eye of the butt. Even a small “shat” is undesirable, since such a handle will have to be wedged immediately. Given the specifics of the use of the tool, it will not last long. Therefore, grinding the ax handle should alternate with its regular fitting in place and fitting within the required limits, with a small margin (about 2 mm). The work is painstaking, requiring time and accuracy, but the result is worth it.
When processing a workpiece for an ax handle, it is undesirable to use files. Such a tool loosens the tree, so it is unlikely that it will be possible to accurately maintain the dimensions - you will have to constantly remove burrs, which means choosing wood. For fine finish it is more correct to use a sharp knife, glass fragments, sandpaper with different sizes grains. The recommended direction of stripping and grinding is along the grain.
It is necessary to choose the right angle of the butt nozzle. For universal tool used for economic purposes, 75º is enough, a cleaver - about 85 ± 50. This is also taken into account in the final design of the fixing part of the ax handle.

Ax wood protection

Every tree is prone to rotting to some extent. For the ax handle linen and drying oil. It is impossible to use varnishes and paints to protect the material from moisture. Otherwise, it is not a fact that the pen will not systematically slip out of your hands. The consequences are known.

The application of the compositions on the handle is carried out in several stages, while each layer should dry well.

Experienced craftsmen mix bright color dyes into drying oil or oil. It is very useful if you have to work with an ax in dense bushes, in areas with tall grass. A tool with a handle that is clearly visible will definitely not get lost.

Ready-made ax handles are available for sale. If a decision is made to purchase a pen, and not waste time preparing wood and independent production, it is advisable to have it with you approximate dimensions(shown in the picture above). And choose the workpiece, focusing on them. At home, it remains only to slightly adjust the ax handle “for yourself”.

If you live or work in the taiga, then you must be equipped the right tools. The mandatory equipment includes not only a saw, but also an ax. Many people make the mistake of choosing this tool and think that carpentry can be mastered. Today we analyze what the ideal looks like taiga ax and is it possible to do it by hand.

Peculiarities

Not only in the taiga, a high-quality ax is needed. All lovers of constant and long hikes will like this attribute. This tool is needed not only for cooking barbecue. There is a to-do list that cannot do without this attribute. Namely:

felling trees;
processing of fallen logs;
production of bags and self-catchers;
building a hut;
splitting the log along the fibers.

Looking at this entire list, we can safely say that the work is mostly rough and requires strong and durable equipment. Basically, the taiga ax is used:

hunters-hunters;
huntsmen;
foresters;
tourists;
geologists and any other person who is going to the taiga.

Components

It is necessary to consider what basic elements an ax consists of:

Ax - different from a carpentry tool. In the taiga ax it is much longer. With it, it is easy to swing and hit the tree. Optimal length the ax handle is approximately 50 cm, and in some cases more. It should not be heavy, otherwise it is impossible to succeed in the taiga.
Head. This part is also different from the carpentry tool. The head is missing the upper part of the blade. If you urgently need to turn an ordinary ax into a taiga one, you can correct it yourself.
Blade. For effective work it is specially rounded. This blade is widely used in the taiga.
Beard. This part fixes the ax handle and the head together.
Butt. In the taiga, it happens that you need not only an ax, but also a hammer. This part will easily replace it. Convenient, no need to carry a hammer with you, which is especially preferred by tourists.
Eye. This part allows you to put the head on the handle. For the reliability of the whole structure, a wooden wedge or an ordinary thick nail must be driven inside the eyelet. This will keep the head from popping off.
Fungus. This part is for safe use only. Hands are fixed on it in a comfortable position and do not slip off.

Below is a taiga ax. The drawing will show where and how each part is located.

Specifications

The taiga ax is a tool that will help you in everything. There are conditions that must be met:

lightness (frequency of use can affect fatigue);
the handle should be ergonomic (an ax for each man should be like an individual suit - only in size);
the main weight should be in the metal head.

For those who like to make everything with their own hands, we suggest using our next master class.

Self-production

We suggest adding your hiking set such a tool as a taiga axe. We will make a real masterpiece from the workpiece with our own hands. Before starting work, we will prepare everything you need. This includes:

head from a carpenter's ax;
wooden butt;
Bulgarian;
wedges are metal.

Here is a step by step tutorial:

With the help of a grinder, you need to shape the ax. It should look like a taiga specimen. If there is rust, it must be removed. To do this, we use a petal disc.
If corrosion has damaged the metal from the inside, then soak the head in vinegar for a day. The rest is brushed off.
We are preparing an axe. In our case, we suggest taking it is considered strong and solid.
Fasten the head and butt together with epoxy. Having additionally reinforced with a bandage, drive in beech wedges.
Cut off all excess and be sure to sand.
Sharpen your axe.

Since the butt is primarily a tree that is prone to dampness, it is worth processing it. Impregnate with special oil in several layers. Additionally, the product will receive a fortress and water resistance.

You can also make your own protective cover for the ax. It will protect you from unwanted injuries.

Sharpening rules

To avoid injury, the ax must be sharp. Sharpening can be done manually and mechanically. Let's consider each of the methods separately and analyze the basic rules for sharpening a tool.

manual method

This method will require a lot of free time, as it is quite troublesome. If you approach with special trepidation, then before sharpening you need to make a special template. For this you need:

find a piece of tin;
choose the optimal and correct sharpening angle;
make a cut.

When the template is ready, go to the main action:

we apply the template to the blade of the ax;
see if there is a deviation angle;
mark with a marker;
processing.

If chosen manual way sharpening, it is better to do it with a bar with medium grit. The final touch can be done with the smallest view. The beam also has its own nuances:

round shape is preferred;
material - fine sandstone.

Professionals advise sharpening with the blade away from you. It is also noted that if amateurs get down to business, then the blade becomes dull, and in some cases the “sharpeners” break.

mechanical method

If you have it on hand, you can use it. To carry out the procedure, you will need the following:

the apparatus itself;
an ax with a blade;
grindstone with two working surfaces;
finishing paste;
marker;
goniometer;
means for personal protection eyes and hands.

The procedure is carried out as follows:

The machine must be placed on a level and firm surface.
The work surface must be free of defects.
If you need to update the sharpening at the existing angle, mark the desired area with a marker.
Sharpen with the blade away from you.
If the angle is suitable, then fix the result with finishing paste. Lubricate the grinding wheel with it and polish the ax.
Be sure to apply a product that protects against corrosion.

Sharpening tips from professionals

If you sharpen the ax mechanically, then you need to do this at low speeds.
Do not sharpen the grinder.
There is no need to rush into sharpening.
To keep the ax from dulling for a long time, store it in a protective case.
Never sharpen an ax without personal protective equipment.
If you doubt your abilities, it is better to turn to professionals.

Work safety

An ax is a rather dangerous thing. So that the trip does not turn into a sad journey, remember the tips on the rules of operation:

The head should not hang on the ax handle.
When chopping, put timber under the wood.
Do not throw the taiga ax on the ground.
Do not attempt to cut stone or metal with this tool.
When working, you need to take a comfortable position for yourself. There should be plenty of free space around.

Purchase

If you like constant hiking or hunting, then you need equipment such as a taiga ax. Wacha is the most common model among this family of instruments. With it, you can quickly and easily chop and process wood.

If you want to purchase a forged taiga ax, then make sure that a protective cover is included. hallmark this brand of tools is considered a handle. It is made of strong varieties of birch. Wood impregnated and processed.

We have considered how to make a taiga. If you can’t make it yourself, you can always find a product in a store.

For those who live in own house, it is often necessary in the country and on hikes such a tool as a taiga ax. Work tool good quality is expensive and hard to find.

An ax from the market is not always of good quality. Therefore, we will make our own ax using improvised means.

Varieties of axes

Consider the variations of axes:

A cleaver is a heavy conical axe. Due to its high weight, it is well suited for cutting large, hard woods.
Carpentry - small weight and size, has a pointed blade. Used for careful, precise, accurate work with wood.
Taiga - suitable for felling trees, harvesting trees, building a hut, removing bark, branches.
Tsalda - designed to clean the area from shrubs.
Kitchen (cooking) - designed only for chopping bones. It is a small hatchet, with a short handle and a large "blade".
Lesorubsky - used only for cutting trees. It consists of a long ax handle and a wide, sharp blade.

Of all the above species, the taiga ax is more necessary and more useful than all.

Distinctive features of the taiga ax:

Light weight.
A small area of the piercing surface (makes it possible to drive it as deep as possible into the wood).
Specific sharpening of the blade (the rear edge is much smaller, thinner than the front.

This feature is designed to be used this species an ax like a cleaver (if the blow is struck correctly. A regular ax has a blade of the same shape for precise work with wood).

Making a taiga ax

Handle material

The function of the ax is primarily affected by its shape and length. The handle must be curved shape, and the cross section is oval.

For the handle, species of trees such as maple, oak, ash, birch are best suited. Since these types of wood tolerate vibration well upon impact.

Wood harvesting starts in autumn

Dry in a dark place. Before use, wood must be stored for about one year, and preferably five.

Only felled wood is not advisable to use as it will dry out over time and will not hold in the eye.

Create a cardboard template

On a large cardboard sheet, we outline the shape of the handle and apply it to a wooden blank. The template will help us make a more accurate handle.

Handle material preparation

A one-year-old wood block is hewn parallel to the fibers. The blank for the handle should be longer than the template. We make the place that is inserted into the eyelet wider than the main part.

On both sides we circle the attached drawing, while not forgetting to leave allowances. After inserting the upper part into the eyelet in this way, we remove the excess wood.

Steps to cut an ax handle

Before cutting the handle, you need to make transverse cuts, but so that they do not reach the line of the future handle by about 4-5 mm. With the help of a chisel, we remove the remains of wood and excess allowances.

Ore transitions and corners are performed by turning with a rasp. After the workpiece is done, we bring the sandpaper to smoothness.

Buying a stabbing part for a taiga hatchet

It is unrealistic to make a blade in a domestic setting. In this case, here is a list of what you need to focus on when buying it on the market or in a hardware store:

The presence of GOST marking (indicates the quality of steel);
The hole for the handle (eye) must be cone-shaped;
The blade is smooth, without defects;

Collecting an ax

We cut the upper part of the handle along and across.
Cut into five pieces of hard wood.
We wrap the top of the handle with gauze soaked in resin for better entry into the hole in the blade.
Using a hammer, drive in the handle.
Hammer the prepared pieces into the cuts at the top of the ax handle.
After the structure dries, cut off the protruding parts of the wooden pieces.

Note!

Sharpening the stabbing part of the taiga ax

A properly sharpened blade gives excellent performance of the hatchet. In accordance with the activity that you will perform with an ax, the sharpening angle depends.

The sharpening of the taiga ax is performed at an angle of 30-35 ̊. If they will perform work with fresh wood, then we sharpen at an angle of 25 ̊.

If you use a grinding wheel for sharpening, then the ax handle must be held at an angle of 40-45 ̊. We reproduce the sharpening slowly, carefully.

If you have everything in stock the right tools, photo step by step manufacturing ax, then its creation will not take a lot of time, effort and money, and in return you will receive a high-quality ax made by yourself.

But do not forget that with a piercing part made of high-quality metal, the ax will last much longer and if the handle is processed linseed oil, then it will not rot and deteriorate.

DIY ax photo

Note!

The landing of the ax on the handle must be correct. This will provide the worker with continuous chopping of firewood, without being distracted by the ax handle flying from time to time. Most often, beginners do not know many tricks that could effectively help with repairing an ax. Namely, the selection of optimal types of wood for the ax handle, additional reinforcing materials.

How to plant an ax on an ax handle - preparing a tree

A wooden unhewn bar is selected, from which you need to make a handle for an ax. A simple pencil outlines the future shape. The ax handle cannot dangle, and must fit tightly into the ax. Therefore, the bar is cut a little larger than necessary so as not to miss the size. You can always reduce it, but for tight shrinkage, wedges may not help.
Using the method of application, with a pencil, the contours of the eye are outlined, as well as places cleavage.

How to plant an ax on an ax handle - the process of attachment

To prevent the ax from dangling, craftsmen make wedges, metal or wooden. It is very difficult to make metal wedges; it is easier to buy them in a specialized store. Wooden wedges are made both by hand and purchased.

Further, the height of the ax is marked on the ax handle. About 5 mm is added to this distance, they can then be cut off, or left. The deepest place on the handle is marked, to which the ax will fall.
Turn to measure the depth of the cutouts for the wedges. Such recesses will be smaller (shorter and narrower) than the wedges themselves, for reliable shrinkage. Recesses are cut with a metal saw with a minimum drunk wood.

After the markup is ready, cuts are made, the handle itself is being finalized. Finished rounded shapes with emery of different grain sizes.
When the ax handle sits comfortably in the palms, work continues in the area of \u200b\u200bthe cut. Extra millimeters are carefully removed, adhering to a tight entry into the ax.
The nozzle process takes place with a blunt, non-sharp object. For these purposes, use a board, or a rubber, weighted mallet for tiles, which will not damage the wood and the metal part.
During the nozzle, the excess tree is removed. From these scuffs, you can determine the amount of surplus that needs to be removed.
Shrinkage occurs gradually. Grinding excess material is done with a sharp knife, sandpaper or grinders with petal emery nozzle.
The tight nozzle of the ax is the key to a good result. When the nozzle has reached its maximum depth, the extra tree is removed, wedges have to be driven in. To do this, the entire structure is disconnected with gentle tapping.
The ax is not removed with a metal hammer and knife. This is done by focusing on a hard surface.
To crack in time cleavage did not go deep into the handle, a through hole of 5 mm is drilled.

Wooden wedges are mounted on epoxy resin, and then it is almost impossible to pull them out. Metal wedges rarely sit on epoxy, but are driven in tightly. To prevent the ax from bursting during the final stage, it must be properly hardened. The nozzle is made with a mallet.

How to plant an ax on an ax handle - important rules

For the manufacture of an ax handle, a tree with knots is rejected. While working with such an ax there is a high chance that it will crack at the knot.
The ax handle should be as comfortable as possible, as during operation it will strive to slip out of your fingers. A slight bend is made at the end of the handle to support the hands.

If the work does not wait and the ax is needed urgently, it is allowed to use fresh wood, but with a warning. After a while, the handle will dry out and begin to dangle. In this case, wedges are placed, seated on seals, but only after complete drying.
The brightly colored handle is the best alarm if the ax gets lost in the grass.

In order for the process to proceed according to the rules, you need to know what kind of wood is better to choose for an ax handle. The strongest and most reliable will be axes made of oak, acacia, pear, mulberry, ash, dogwood, birch, maple. The wood does not have to be fresh. Only after a year of natural drying in a dark, dry room can a selected piece of wood be considered ready for use.

How to make a good, reliable ax with your own hands at home?

By remaking an ordinary ax, you can give it special properties necessary for work. Such an ax will last much longer and better than a regular store. A hunter in the taiga cannot do without a reliable ax, which should be as versatile as possible. There are many axes on sale: from large and medium construction and carpentry to small axes suitable for various household needs. But the taiga ax must have special properties, which can be given to an ordinary ax by redoing it.

An ax with soft and slightly hardened steel should be preferred to an ax with a “dryish” steel. When chipping the blade, this drawback can be easily eliminated by steeper sharpening. The shape of the sharpening should be parabolic, but not razor and not straight (Fig. 1). An ax with such a sharpening does not jam in wood, it splits firewood well, it becomes less dull. With sufficient sharpness, such a blade is quite suitable for carpentry. Much in the understanding of rationality is given by the forms of old Russian axes, as well as the axes of lumberjacks of the Carpathians, North America, in which the upper edge of the blade never forms an angle of more than 90 ° with the axis of the ax handle. All commercially available axes have a wide blade and a protruding upper edge (Fig. 2). The shaded part sharply reduces the efficiency of the ax, since at the moment of impact this part tends to unbend the ax handle, creating in it. unnecessary vibration, and thereby dampens the impact force. To eliminate this shortcoming, the shaded part is removed. The easiest way to do this is to drill a series of adjoining holes along the cut line, and remove the hardened part with an abrasive.
The straight blade of the ax must be changed to a convex one (Fig. 3), if the width of the hardening of the blade allows. A straight edge is designed only for carpentry, and when such a blade cuts, while simultaneously touching the entire edge and hitting the tree at a right angle, it has poor penetrating power. Each point of the convex edge enters the wood under acute angle(Fig. 3), a cutting effect occurs, as a result of which the penetrating power of such a blade increases dramatically. Despite the fact that the weight of the ax will decrease after processing, its efficiency will increase. The author proposes two variants of axes (see Fig. 4 and photo). One of them is lightweight, designed for running hunts, small trips, and also for commercial hunting with a saw. The total weight of such an ax is 800-1000 g, the length of the ax handle is 40-60 cm. Another is heavy, for commercial hunting and long-distance trips, during which significant work has to be done. Its weight is 1000-1400 g, the length of the ax handle is 55-65 cm. The choice of the length of the ax handle is determined by the quality of the wood, the height and strength of the hunter.
Of course, axes hand-crafted by blacksmiths are better both in terms of steel and in terms of angle and balance, but there is one very capricious detail - a wooden ax handle. This part must be made using special technology. Making an ax handle, wedge and landing of an ax is much longer and more difficult than forging an ax (even, probably, Damascus). Checking how well the ax handle and landing is made is much more difficult than checking the quality of the ax itself. In addition, the ax requires special daily care and certain conditions of detention. If all the points are not met, then the result is always the same: Either the ax flies off, or the ax handle breaks. Having properly prepared the ax, you can begin to manufacture the ax handle. It must be thin. The smaller its weight relative to the weight of the ax, the stronger the blow. The ax handle must be flexible: a hard ax handle “dries” the hand. In cross section, it has an ovoid, but flattened shape with a sharper anterior and rounded posterior edges. It is best to make an ax from the butt of ash, maple, elm. You can also use curly fine-layered birch. The most suitable butt thickness for harvesting ax handles is 35-40 cm. The raw butt should be split, then dried with sealed ends.

An ax handle with a longitudinal arrangement of layers (Fig. 5) is stronger. In front of the ax attachment, the center of gravity is found on the ax handle (Fig. 6). Usually this point (C) is located at the base of the lug. Then determine the middle line of the ax AB, passing through the middle of the butt and the top of the edge of the blade. This line is the tangent along which the ax will move when struck.

If you put the blade at point B perpendicular to the midline AB on the plane, then the end of the ax handle will have to touch the same plane at point C. middle line ax handle (PR), point P is located on this line and is 3.5-4 cm away from the NE plane. The cutting of the ax handle is clear from fig. 5, where the shaded parts of the workpiece must be cut off. The distance from the lower edge of the eye (point K) to the point of maximum bending of the ax handle (point O) is 10-11 cm. At point O, the hand holds the ax during carpentry work. In this place, the circumference of the ax handle is 12-13 cm, and the thinnest place at the end of the ax handle is 9-10 cm. Finally, the thickness is adjusted according to the hand. The ax ends with a thickening in the form of a “fungus” that fixes the hand (it is clearly visible in the photo). Such an ax handle is indispensable in cold and rain, when gloves or mittens are on the hands. "Fungus" allows you to relax your hands at the time of work. The strength and accuracy of the blows of a "relaxed" ax cannot be compared with the blows of an ax that you have to hold tightly, being afraid to let go of it. On the blank for the "fungus", a thickening is provided in advance; it is processed last in order to exclude chips when the ax is mounted. Getting to the nozzle, you need to place the workpiece. When adjusting the ax handle, you should constantly check the landing angle by applying the ax to the plane (in Fig. 6 this is the NE line). In the ax handle, adjusted to two-thirds of the eye depth, a wedge cut is made to the same depth (Fig. 6), after which the seat is finally adjusted. Before driving the wedge, it is useful to dry the ax handle with the mounted ax for two to three days.
Immediately after fitting (or after drying), the ax is removed from the handle, the fitted parts are liberally smeared with BF-2 glue, and the ax is finally mounted. Glue is also applied to a pre-prepared wedge made of hardwood (ash, maple, elm, apple, pear) and the wedge is hammered. To prevent the wedge from breaking when driving, it is made short. To completely dry the glue, the ax must be dried for a day on a battery or by the stove. Finally, the handle is processed by hand, skinned and impregnated with drying oil or linseed oil.

The finished ax remains sharpened. An ax will save a lot of effort and time if its blade is always sharply sharpened. It is useful for this to have plywood cut to the size of the breast pocket, glued on both sides with waterproof sandpaper - coarse and micron. Such plywood is enough for the whole season, if the ax does not require serious regrinding.