Do-it-yourself workbench desktop. Making a universal workbench for the workshop with your own hands

The garage is not only a building for storing a car and various utensils. It can repair the car and other products. In this case, you can not do without a good locksmith workbench. You can assemble it yourself, but it is important to understand the features of its design and take into account the mistakes that are often made when assembling such structures. The article will talk about the requirements for a good workbench and provide an idea for self assembly.

Build errors

It is important to understand well what not to do when designing and assembling a metal workbench. The first step is to pay attention to the place where the locksmith workbench will be installed. Often, when pouring the floor in the garage, they are guided by the rule "and so it will do." But this leads to large differences in the plane, which negatively affects the locksmith workbench. For example, some craftsmen who decide to make a metal workbench for themselves on eight or six supports are faced with the fact that after installation, half of the supports are in the air, and the workbench itself is thrown from side to side.

It is very inconvenient to work at such a locksmith's workbench, and small parts are constantly lost. The way out of this situation can be the construction of adjustable supports. In this case, in lower part powerful bolts are installed that will allow you to level the locksmith workbench in a horizontal position. Another option would be preliminary preparation surfaces. To do this, the part of the screed that has already been filled is removed and a new one is poured, which is clearly aligned with the horizon. In this case, it will not be necessary to manufacture additional parts for the table supports.

Another solution to this error is to reduce the number of supports to 4 pieces. In this case, it will be easier to achieve the correct position even on uneven surface. With proper design and construction of the frame, there should be no problems with the stability of the entire structure. Additionally, a shelf or several shelves for storing consumables and tools are built at the bottom of the locksmith's workbench. One of them should be as close to the floor surface as possible. In this case, a heavy tool that can be placed on it will act as a balancer for the entire frame.

Design nuances

It is always possible to avoid assembling a locksmith table with your own hands. In this case, you can buy cheap consumer goods or a product that was used by the master. But each of these options has significant drawbacks. In the first case, there is no guarantee that such a locksmith workbench will last a long time, because cheap options are assembled from production waste, and not quality material. Used products may have excellent strength characteristics and attractive designs, but they may not always meet the specific requirements of the garage where they are to be installed. So the best way there will be an assembly of our own design according to the developed drawing.

There are several factors that allow you to assemble the most convenient design for your needs in plumbing work. When designing, it is important to consider:

• height;
• width;
• depth;
• strength.

The first and one of the most important factors is correct selection height for the future metalwork construction. If the workbench turns out to be lower than required, then there will be a large load on the back, since you will have to work in a bent state. If the height of the locksmith's workbench is too high, you will have to strain your legs and arms to reach the details. The ideal option is when the countertop is at the level of the navel. In this case, the forearms and hands lie perfectly on the plane and you do not have to strain your back.

Regarding the width of the locksmith's workbench, no strict rules. It all depends on what products will be placed on it. V classic version the width is selected according to the person's height. In this case, standing in the middle, it will be possible to reach any point of the workbench. The depth of the product should be such that you do not have to bend down to get an object lying in the depth. Usually 50 or 60 cm is enough. Special attention should pay attention to the strength of the structure. It is impossible to overdo it with this indicator, because on a locksmith's workbench you have to work with heavy tools and sometimes inflict strong blows on parts.

Advice! The construction of a workbench for metalwork should be carried out only from metal. wooden structures are not able to withstand the required load, even if you pick up hardwoods and sheathe them with metal.

DIY manufacturing

For a sample for self-manufacturing you can take a table with two side cabinets. This table has four legs. In place of one cabinet, you can build shelves for easy access, and on the other - install drawers in which it is easy to store small things. To implement the entire project, you will need the following material:

• profile pipe with a size of 6 × 4 cm;
• corner 5 × 5 cm;
• sheet metal for countertops.

From profile pipe it is necessary to prepare horizontal beams. You will need three or four of them. The length will depend on personal needs, but two meters is usually sufficient. Vertical racks are selected in accordance with their own growth, as described above. They are made from the same profiled pipe, you will need four pieces. The wall thickness of the profiled pipe should be at least 2 mm.

Additionally, ten blanks are prepared for the frame of the locksmith's table for shelves and drawers. You can refer to the dimensions above. To strengthen the structure, you will need jibs that will be fixed in the corners. From the purchased corner, vertical racks are prepared, on which a stand for hand tools will be fixed. You will need four of these racks. Their height is usually 2 meters.

Note! To implement the entire project for the construction of a workbench, approximately 225 meters of square pipe will be required. The corner for the racks will need 8 meters, and the shank with a thickness of 4 mm and a width of 40 mm will need about 10 meters.

The square tube itself does not have the required fracture toughness. That is why a metal corner is welded around the perimeter of the workbench. Thanks to correct location corner, a frame is obtained, in which it will be easy to lay a metal sheet, which will act as a countertop. The table top of the workbench does not have to be made of thick sheet metal, since its cost can be quite high. Another option would be to lay durable boards that are covered sheet metal with less thickness. This design absorbs sound better on impact and has less recoil.

Advice! Additionally, a layer of rubber can be laid between the board and the metal sheet of the tabletop of the locksmith's workbench, which will act as a shock absorber.

Frame assembly

Assembling the construction of a locksmith's workbench is not difficult if you have the skill to work with welding machine. Thanks to the prepared details, everything becomes simple and clear. The best solution will use a semi-automatic, not arc welding. In this case, the material is heated to the required temperature and does not burn out from the electrode. The seams are neat and strong.

First of all, you need to make rectangular base for the construction of a locksmith's workbench. This will require two blanks, the length of which is equal to the depth of the table, and two blanks, the length of which is equal to the width of the workbench. The ends are cut with a grinder at an angle of 45 degrees to provide a perfect junction. Workbench blanks are laid out on a flat horizontal surface. Initially, they must be fixed with small tacks and trimmed if necessary. Next, a full seam is applied to the structure. In this case, you will need to make a penetration on the other side.

The next step is to install the four racks of the locksmith's workbench. They are welded to the prepared frame. They must be placed vertically. After that, the lower strapping is performed on three sides. At the same stage, vertical racks are welded under the tool stand, which will be located above the locksmith's workbench. The next step is the installation of frames for drawers and shelves, as seen in the photo above. At the same time, an additional crossbar is fixed between them, but it is welded with an offset to the middle, so that it is convenient to stand behind the bench.

Final work

When the frame is ready, you can weld a corner on top for a benchtop worktop. The board is cut according to the dimensions obtained and fits into the grooves. Before that, it must be treated with an antiseptic and flame retardants so that it does not ignite while working on a workbench. This is especially true in those cases when two parts are welded on a metal workbench or work with a tool from which sparks fly. After laying the board on the workbench, you can place a metal sheet, as seen in the photo. To the high uprights sheets of plywood are screwed into which holes for the tool are drilled.

To prevent the tool from spilling out on the sides, it is necessary to sew up the walls using plywood or other suitable material. Holders for partitions are being built in the bedside table on the left, which will act as shelves. On the right in the workbench, according to the drawing, boxes are planned that can be assembled from a board that fits under the workbench table top.

The metal is exposed to corrosion from moisture, so the surface must be protected with paint. Before painting, it is necessary to clean the frame of the locksmith's workbench with a grinder and degrease it. After that, a layer of primer is applied. After complete drying, the frame of the workbench is covered finishing layer enamel. It should be a paint that is resistant to temperature, as well as mechanical stress.

Typically, a bench has a vise and a small anvil. Under them, you can provide an additional basis. Such modules are mounted on the locksmith's workbench on the left, so that they have easy access, and they do not interfere with the main work. Another important device for a locksmith's workbench is lighting. It must be installed from above in such a way that it is not blocked by the head and hands of the master. LED spotlights can be used as light sources for a locksmith's workbench. Several of them are installed permanently and several must move along the plane of the workbench. In this case, it will be possible to choose the best lighting angle.

Before starting work on a new locksmith workbench, it must be loaded to the maximum in order to ensure stability, as mentioned above. Some owners additionally fix supporting legs to concrete base through anchor bolts. A video with the assembly of another version of the locksmith table is below.

Summary

As you can see, the design of the locksmith table can be assembled independently. Assistance may be needed with welding work, since this requires special skills and abilities. A second person can assist with assembly when it is necessary to hold the parts to be welded.

For the convenience of processing wood, stone, plastic and metal, for finishing and assembly manipulations, a worker is often needed. carpenter's workbench. To make it yourself, drawings are not required - they are needed for desktops of complex design, which are also described in this article.

Purpose and typical device of the workbench

Any workbench is a massive and necessarily stable desktop for processing products of various sizes. The larger its dimensions, the larger and heavier parts can be processed on it. And the work itself is done as hand tool(hacksaw, brace, etc.), and mechanized - for example, using electric drill or electric planer. A carpenter's workbench has the following typical layout:

• Work surface - made of massive board, not less than 60 mm thick. For the cover of the workbench, it is advisable to use hardwood - beech, hornbeam or oak, otherwise it will have to be changed periodically due to rapid wear. The lid can be put together from separate dry boards and treated with drying oil before installation;
• A vice is “hung” on the front (front) part of the top cover for fixing workpieces. If the linear size of the workbench exceeds 1 meter, you can install two vices - separately for large and small parts. Large vices must be wooden, small ones are acceptable in the "steel version";
• Bench supports are made of soft wood - pine or linden. The supports of the workbench made of wood are necessarily interconnected by longitudinal strips for the overall stability of the structure;
• On supports in the underbench space, retractable or tightly fixed shelves for tools can be located.

A series of holes are drilled in the front of the top cover for installing clamps, wedges and other parts for fastening large parts. In the back working surface provide for a recess - it is intended for small parts and accessories. You can replace a difficult-to-make recess with a perimeter of wooden slats.

Homemade workbench can have three types of design:

• Mobile. A small table measuring approximately 70 by 80 cm in length and width, with one vice and weighing up to 30 kg. The lower parts of the supports are made of metal for extra stability. Designed for minor repairs and work with light wood products;
• A stationary workbench of simple design - easy to manufacture, but firmly "tied" to one place. It is used for processing heavy boards and massive wooden blanks;
• Composite on bolted connections. Convenient for its "collapsibility" and ease of replacement separate parts, but in manufacturing it is more difficult than others.

Photo gallery: drawings with dimensions and symbols

We will consider the methodology for the independent manufacture of stationary and adjustable workbenches in more detail. Stationary digs into the ground on its own plot, in the country or in the yard. If it is installed inside a garage or other workroom, it is recommended to attach it well to the floor so that the workbench does not swing during operation.

The assembly sequence is as follows:

1. Base - frame wooden beams, which is fastened so that the structure as a result is as reliable as possible. To do this, you need to place a jumper between the legs, and install the drawer in the middle. They are best placed at a distance of about 40 cm from the floor level. By the way, they are also useful for creating additional shelves. The bars are combined with building glue. Where it is impossible to carry out such work, self-tapping screws must be used. If you are going to make a disassembled tool, it is best to connect the supports with metal corners. In any case, all the grooves are first prepared, then the structure is assembled, the joints are treated with glue, and we fix them with clamps. The best option when installing a stationary workbench, it is considered possible to attach part of the tool to the wall for reliability.

   The base is a frame of bars

2. If you build a countertop from several boards, then it is important to knock them down as high as possible so that debris and sawdust do not get into the gaps. Dimensions should exceed the width and length of the base by 3-5 cm - this will allow you to clean the tool with all conveniences.
3. The tabletop is screwed and nailed to several boards that are on the other side of the work surface, and at the base it is necessary to place grooves for mounting the bars.

   Boards are attached to a stable frame

4. The desktop needs to be tidy with grinder, cover with drying oil to reduce the risk of injury from chips, and metal corners are bolted to its base.
5. We attach a vise to the already made work surface, under which recesses in the work surface should be created, this will allow the vertical plate to be placed in the same plane with the table top. On the underside we install a plywood gasket, while it is important to make sure that the vise lips are flush with the surface. Having attached a vise, mark the area where the holes will be drilled, and attach them with nuts. We mill holes in advance so that the bolts “drown” in them. It is best to install the vise not in the corners, which will make them reliable even under heavy loads.

   A vise or saw can be attached to the surface of the workbench

6. In addition to the vise, you must also make stops. Of course, you can make them yourself, but it is better to purchase and ready-made. However, if you decide to create them yourself, prepare rectangular stops that can be adjusted in height. Bolts should not be used, as they can damage the workpiece during operation. On the working surface, we make holes for the stops, while it is desirable to place them at a distance of up to 50% of the vise stroke - this will allow you to securely fasten any workpieces.

Video: vise workbench

Video: desktop with a saw

How to make a simple carpentry workbench with your own hands

1. The top cover is knocked together from thick boards, from which a massive shield with a width of 70 cm and a length of up to 2 meters should be obtained. For fasteners, long nails are used, driven into the boards from the “front” side and carefully bent on the wrong side of the wooden lintels. The working surface of the workbench is necessarily made of solid wood, fiberboard, chipboard and other materials from pressed chips are absolutely not suitable for it.
2. good constructive solution there will be a lining of the lid along the lower perimeter with a beam of 5 by 5 cm - subsequently it is convenient to fix vertical supports to it. The increased weight of the lid will only give additional stability to the entire structure.
3. The location of the vertical supports depends on the size of the top cover of our workbench. It is advisable to make them from a rectangular bar with dimensions from 120 to 120 mm. You can also take round timber as supports, but its fasteners are not as reliable as those of square (rectangular) bars. The height of the working surface is of great importance, the convenience of carpentry manipulations depends on it.
4. It is optimal to set the upper cut of the supports at the level of the hand lowered down - due to the installation of the cover, the total height of the workbench will "grow" by 7-10 cm and it will become quite convenient to work on it. On the ground, we mark the holes for vertical supports and dig them to a depth of 25-30 cm. Accordingly, total length dug-in bars is 1.2-1.3 meters.
5. Vertical bars are installed in dug holes evenly, strictly according to building level. The installed supports are connected in pairs using wide boards at a height of 20-40 cm. The transverse boards are attached to vertical bars using long self-tapping screws. After that, a working surface is mounted on the ends of the supports. For its installation, self-tapping screws are used, since hammer blows on nails can move the frame of our structure.
6. When the top cover is securely fastened, vise, clamps and other devices can be “hung” on it for the convenience of carpentry.

If the design is more complex

When making a composite carpentry workbench with your own hands, drawings will be required, although the manufacturing procedure itself is in many ways similar to that described above. The main differences are related to the use of bolted connections instead of self-tapping screws and the installation of tool boxes in the underbench space.

When the installation of the vertical supports is completed, they are interconnected by horizontal jumpers. Previously, in each jumper, with the help of a chisel and a hammer, grooves are hollowed out for a nut with a washer (you can use special furniture bolts with C-shaped nuts). Having set the jumper bar to the required height, a through hole is drilled in the vertical support and the horizontal bar, into which a long bolt is inserted. From the side of the prepared groove, a nut with a washer is “baited” onto the bolt and carefully tightened along the thread.

Horizontal jumpers for the frame of a collapsible workbench will need two on all four sides. In addition, you need to install 1-2 jumpers in the middle of the tabletop, directly below it. Horizontal slats are attached to these additional jumpers on small self-tapping screws, along which tool drawers will slide. The boxes themselves are made "in place", that is, depending on the size of the mounting clearance between the jumpers.

The working cover of the collapsible workbench is also bolted. In the upper part of the vertical supports, a mounting recess is hollowed out with a chisel, holes for bolts are drilled in the cover. Because a flat working surface is required, the bolt heads are “sunk” in the cover due to drilling their seats with drills of the appropriate diameter.

Video: how to make your own milling table

The undeniable advantage of a collapsible workbench lies not only in the easy replacement of parts and the tabletop itself. As you know, under the load from planing, drilling, and other mechanical processing, the most durable workbench is loosened. It is much more reliable and easier to re-tighten the fixing bolts than to drive new nails or screws into the wood - so collapsible models last much longer than knocked together counterparts.

Video: folding workbench table

The design of the carpentry workbench will depend on your needs. In order to make it with your own hands, minimal knowledge and skills are enough.

About carpentry workbenches

The device and purpose of the workbench

The carpenter's workbench is a workbench for manual and mechanical processing wooden products. The design and ergonomics of the classic carpentry workbench allow you to fix parts in various spatial positions and with maximum convenience perform basic carpentry operations: manufacture wooden parts, assemble structures, cover them with finishing compounds. The traditional carpenter's table is designed to work with lumber up to 3-3.5 m long. For processing longer pieces, a carpenter's workbench is used.

The carpentry table consists of a workbench (cover) and a workbench (bearing frame). A traditional workbench is equipped with front (front) and rear (end) vices, with the help of which the workpieces are fixed in the required spatial positions.

There are holes in the table top and wooden vise jaws. They are designed to install clamps and stops of various sections and heights.

Having placed the stops in the desired configuration, a part is placed between them and pressed with a screw vise mechanism. Thus, the workpiece is securely fixed in a horizontal position. Based on the thickness wood detail, use a stop of the appropriate height, which will not protrude beyond the edge of the workpiece and interfere with processing.

How to choose the optimal workbench height?

The height of carpentry workbenches varies between 85-95 cm. Optimal Height tables are selected based on the growth of the master. If, standing at the workbench, the palms freely rest against its lid, then the size is chosen correctly. Behind such a workbench it will be convenient to perform all basic operations, without frequent bending and stretching, which lead to rapid fatigue.

What materials are best to make a structure?

The carpentry workbench must have sufficient strength and rigidity, since during operation it is subjected to heavy loads, both static, formed under the weight of massive workpieces, and dynamic, arising in the process of sawing, drilling, impacts, etc. Sufficient strength characteristics are provided not only by the features of fasteners, but also the type of materials used.

Coniferous wood is traditionally used for the manufacture of the base. The table top is made of durable wood: oak, beech, ash, maple, etc. The lumber used to create the workbench must be dry (moisture content of about 12%) without knots and other defects.

About making a bench cover

Experience shows that when making a carpentry workbench with your own hands, it is more expedient to purchase a ready-made glued shield, which will become a blank for the lid. The effort and time spent on cutting, jointing edges, gluing the shield and leveling it when creating such a massive part will be incomparable with the money saved.

When performing work that increases the risk of damage to the lid: drilling, chiselling, etc., it is better to cover the working surface of the workbench with a thick plywood sheet or fiberboard cut to the shape of the lid. It is advisable to make this simple flooring immediately with a workbench.

Manufacturing and assembly of sidewalls

The design of the sidewall consists of two legs (B), tsargs and supports (A). The part is assembled on a through glued spike.

Curly cutouts of the sides and supports (detail A) are cut out on a band saw, followed by grinding the edges.

In accordance with the dimensions indicated in the diagram, the legs are marked with sockets for the spikes of the prolegs, after which they are selected with a chisel or milled.

On the outer side of the legs, a conical recess is made for the head of the coupling bolt. A recess with a diameter of 35 mm and a depth of 11 mm is made with a Forstner drill. A through hole with a diameter of 14 mm is drilled in the center.

Sawing spikes and eyelets

Spikes and eyes are made on a saw machine or manually, guided basic principles creating spiked joints. In such a critical design, the first option is preferable, since it allows you to minimize errors and inaccuracies, ensuring a flawless fit of the connection. The workpieces must have prepared smooth surfaces and correspond to the dimensions indicated in the drawing.

The halves of parts A are glued together, having previously placed an insert in the groove that will prevent displacement.

Sidewall assembly

Parts A and B are glued into a finished joint. After drying, the excess glue that has come through is carefully cleaned with a chisel. The assembled sidewall is polished.

A hole 19x38 mm is drilled in the center of the glued drawer side under the dowel (L) to fix the cover of the workbench.

Production of prolegs and underbench shelves

According to the dimensions indicated in the drawing, blanks for prolegs (detail C) are cut out in the amount of 4 pieces. Spikes are made at the ends of each part, adhering to the dimensions indicated in the photo. As in the case of the sidewall, this operation is best done on a saw machine.

The connection of the prolegs with the sidewall is made detachable on a bolt screed with a transverse nut. For this on inside prolegs mill a recess for transverse nuts d25 mm and a depth of 32 mm. A hole of 14x95 mm is drilled at the ends of the prolegs. At this stage, it is better to use a drilling jig, since the holes must be made strictly at an angle of 90 °.

The support strips (details D and E) are screwed with self-tapping screws with an offset of 22 mm from the upper edges of the prongs.

According to the dimensions specified in the “General Detailing” drawing, the slats of the bench shelf are cut out (detail F). Holes are drilled and countersinked at the ends of each plank. The planks are ground and sequentially mounted on the assembled frame.

Mounting the bench cover

On the back side of the workbench, do not drill through holes d19 mm and 32 mm deep for dowels (L).

With a d19 mm drill, through holes are made on the lid for bench stops. Similar sockets 45 mm deep are drilled at the end of the cover. All holes are chamfered. The stops should easily enter the sockets and not play.

Advice! For all drilling operations, use a drill with a jig to ensure neat holes at a perfectly right angle. It is not difficult to make such a guide yourself, having a piece of timber at hand.

Bench vise installation

Having decided to make a workbench with your own hands, it is more expedient to buy a carpentry vice ready-made. In this case, you will get the most reliable and functional design, and, importantly, get rid of unnecessary headaches during their installation.

Manufacturers of bench vises strive to adhere to standards in the manufacture of their products. Here we take a look at the wiring diagram. standard designs. But it is quite possible that you will have to improvise, adapting the installation to the features of non-standard bench vise.

Vice jaws - parts H, I and J (2 pcs.) - are sawn from hardwood. After that, holes are drilled for guide rods, a lead screw, sockets for bench stops and holes for mounting screws.

The rear jaws of the front and rear vise are mounted to the workbench cover as shown in the photo.

Wooden linings (detail K) are cut to fit the vise. Through holes are drilled in the drawers for the guide rods and the lead screw.

Advice! To accurately mark the holes, use the guides themselves, pieces of masking tape and a soft pencil.

Every home craftsman knows that a well-equipped workshop with a stable and reliable carpenter's workbench equipped with all kinds of tools for processing parts is half the success in the manufacture of wood products. Of course, the desktop can be bought in the distribution network. However, we recommend making it yourself. First, it will allow you to get the product right size and functionality. Secondly, when building a workbench optional equipment can be placed in the most rational way. Thirdly, the cost of the machine will be much lower than the factory version, which will allow you to buy a quality tool with the money saved. If these arguments gave you a reason to think about making a desktop with your own hands, then our drawings, instructions and recommendations will help you build a solid, reliable and functional carpentry workbench.

Purpose and design of a typical carpentry workbench

Sturdy and reliable carpentry workbench will provide convenience and comfort during long work with wooden parts

The carpentry workbench, in fact, is massive, reliable table for processing wooden products of any size. The main requirements for this type of equipment are strength and stability. In addition, the machine must be equipped with at least minimum set fixtures for fixing and holding workpieces. The dimensions of the working table are selected depending on the size and weight of the workpieces, as well as free space workshop or garage. By the way, there are designs of compact workbenches that can be placed even on the balcony.

The design of a carpentry workbench with a type-setting worktop. In the figure: 1 - base or bench; 2 - workbench; 3 - miter box; 4 - coupler; 5 - vice; 6 - support beam

Since the work that is carried out on the carpentry machine is carried out with the help of manual and electric tools, the workbench is made of massive timber and thick boards. By the way, the work surface, or in another way the workbench, is assembled only from hardwood. In the manufacture of countertops, dry oak, beech or hornbeam boards with a thickness of at least 60 mm are used. If the countertop is made of pine, alder or linden, then its surface will wear out quickly and will require periodic updating. Often, a bench cover is assembled from several narrow and thick boards, placing them on edge.

A number of holes made on the working surface of the table allows you to install stop elements for the convenience of processing long wooden workpieces.

In order to facilitate the construction support legs the desktop, on the contrary, is made of soft wood. Between themselves, the vertical supports are connected by a longitudinally installed beam to increase the stability of the product.

Typical scheme of a carpentry workbench

A specially designed vise is hung on the front and side of the workbench for fixing workpieces. In addition, on overall machines, separate clamping devices for large and small parts are mounted. The optimal location for the carpentry vice is the left side of the front apron and the near part of the right sidewall.

In the underlayment - the space between the supports, under the tabletop, they often equip convenient shelves and drawers for storing tools and accessories.

For convenience, a recess is made in the back of the countertop for fittings and small parts. Often, a recess that is difficult to manufacture is replaced with a frame knocked down from wooden slats.

Types and design

All home-made desktops for carpentry can be divided into three types:

1. Mobile workbenches have a weight of up to 30 kg, dimensions of less than 1 m in length and up to 70 cm in width, are equipped with one vice and are made partly from metal elements. Such machines are designed to work with small, light workpieces or minor repairs of wooden products. A mobile desktop is an excellent option when there is not enough space and can be installed in any room in the country house or on the balcony. Often, mobile workbenches have a folding design.

   Homemade carpentry workbench mobile design

   
   

   If there is no need for a stationary, professional workbench, then for small repair work or making small parts you can refurbish an old desk.

2. A stationary carpentry workbench is made with reference to a specific place and is not intended to be moved during operation. Equipment of this type allows you to process parts of any size and weight.

   The stationary carpentry workbench is a reliable, stable structure, equipped in accordance with the preferences of the owner and the features of the room.

3. Composite type machine - the most difficult to manufacture. Nevertheless, this design, due to its variability, is the most practical and functional structure. If necessary, individual parts of the workbench can be easily replaced, since the elements of the desktop are bolted together.

   The composite workbench is a structure that can be adjusted to any requirement.

Project and drawings

When developing the design of a carpentry workbench the most important criteria are height, configuration and equipment. In addition, it is necessary to take into account who will operate the desktop - left-handed or right-handed.

Considering that it will take a long time to work at a carpentry workbench, the closest attention should be paid to the height of the future structure. For people of average height, experts recommend making a table no higher than 90 cm.

Drawing of a carpentry workbench

When determining the distance from the floor to the countertop, it is best to focus not on the average parameters, but on the features of your own anatomy. It is optimal if the upper cut of the legs is on the same level with the hands. If you calculate this parameter taking into account the thickness of the countertop, then you can work at such a workbench tirelessly for several hours.

The cover of the machine can be made of boards, solid wood or plywood and is a type-setting structure. It is not recommended to use chipboard or OSB for these purposes. Professional carpenters have long identified optimal size countertops - maximum 2 m long and 0.7 m wide. On such a workbench, with the same convenience, you can make a team wooden door, and a small window.

When designing a structure, do not forget about strength load-bearing frame. For supporting structural elements, a bar with a section of at least 100x100 mm is used. As longitudinal and transverse reinforcing elements, it is allowed to use rails and beams with a smaller section - from 50 - 60 mm or more. The joints of the parts are mounted on spikes or dowels, furniture corners and other fittings are used for strength, and all connections are made using bolts and self-tapping screws. Nails will not be able to provide the required stability and fundamental nature of the structure.

Joiner's workbench. View from above

Often the frame, or otherwise the frame of the workbench, is made of metal. Despite the fact that this material makes it possible to make a height-adjustable structure with less labor, professional carpenters prefer all-wood structures.

Next, consider the project of a carpentry table¸ made of plywood, or rather, from two plywood sheets 1.8 mm thick glued together. The dimensions of the lid are 150x60 cm. The edges of the tabletop are reinforced with plywood strips, which increases its thickness to 72 mm. By the way, the presented dimensions are not a dogma and can be adjusted, if necessary, in accordance with the needs and characteristics of a particular room used as a workshop.

Necessary tools and materials

Plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is a rather expensive material (the price of one sheet measuring 1.5x1.5 m is more than 700 rubles, excluding shipping costs). Our project will require at least two sheets of this material. You can save a little if you buy one, larger sheet with dimensions of 2500x1250 mm. Additionally, if possible, try to purchase scraps of plywood with a width of at least 300 mm, which will be used to reinforce the workbench cover around the perimeter.

Additional for building carpentry machine you will need:

• wooden beam with a section of at least 100x100 mm - for supports;
• timber or slats with a cross section of at least 60x60 mm - for frame reinforcement elements;
  When choosing lumber for a carpentry workbench, carefully inspect the workpieces for knots and cracks. Remember that these parts will work under continuous load;
• electric drill with a set of conventional and feather drills;
• pieces of boards with a length of at least 1.5 m for laying under the clamps;
• wood glue. A good result can be obtained by using the domestic adhesive "Moment Joiner";
• furniture bolts with nuts and self-tapping screws;
• Circular Saw;
• joiner's square;
• long rule (at least 2 m);
• construction level;
• a notched trowel with a size of cut sectors of at least 3 mm;
• carpentry clamps.

Clamps required for compressing plywood sheets during gluing must be strong and reliable. If you are a non-professional carpenter and do not have quality tool, then you can get by with inexpensive Chinese-made clamping devices. Of course, the number of such devices should be doubled.

Manufacturing instructions

1. To make a countertop, cut two blanks with a circular saw. If you managed to purchase a plywood sheet maximum length, then it is necessary to saw off one workpiece with a length of 1520 mm from it. By cutting it in half, you will get two parts 1520x610 mm. After that, as a rule, check the concave and convex sides of each sheet. This will make it possible to correctly orient the sheets when gluing.

   High-quality gluing provides clamping of tabletop parts with clamps

   
   

   To properly glue the plywood sheets, they are folded, turning the convex sides to each other.

2. After laying one blank on three parallel-laid boards, apply wood glue to its surface. To do this, use straight and notched trowels. Remember that the work must be carried out very quickly, otherwise the composition will begin to set prematurely. The glue manufacturer Moment Stolyar recommends joining the parts no later than two minutes after the start of applying the composition. Therefore, if you are not sure about the speed of your work, use wood glue, which has no time limits. Of course, the strength of the connection will be slightly reduced, however, even the PVA furniture mix good quality provide an acceptable degree of bonding.

   To prevent damage to the workpiece, support boards are placed under the clamps.

3. Having laid the second workpiece on top of the first, place support boards around the perimeter of the future table cover and begin to tighten the tabletop with clamps. At the same time, do not forget to control the flatness of the part using the rule. It will not work to tighten the center of the workpiece with clamps, so in this part you can install a load weighing at least 15 - 20 kg.
   

   It is possible to glue plywood sheets into a shield without clamps, if you can find a perfectly flat surface for laying them, as well as a load of sufficient mass.

4. After the glue dries, the clamps are removed and proceed to reinforce the side surfaces of the countertop. To do this, strips of plywood 15 cm wide are glued around the entire perimeter of the cover in two layers. When doing this, be sure to check that upper layer completely covered the joints.

   Reinforcement of the side parts of the bench table with additional plywood strips

5. For trimming the side surfaces of the table, use circular saw. The parquet is carried out smoothly, slowly. It is convenient to use the same rule as a guide. The tabletop is given a size of 1500x600 mm in compliance with right angles, for which they use a joiner's square or a factory corner of a plywood sheet.
6. Workbench supports are made of timber with a section of 100x100 mm, connecting them with prolegs and drawers, for which lumber is used cross section not less than 60x60 mm. In our case, the height of the machine is 900 mm, however, you can adjust this size to suit your height.

   Making a carpentry workbench frame

7. The legs are assembled “in a spike” or using dowels, be sure to apply carpentry glue to the parts to be joined.
8. When assembling the upper and lower frame of the underlay, scrupulously maintain 90-degree angles between the parts. It will be easier to fulfill this requirement if, at the stage of preparing the parts, their edges are correctly trimmed. The width of the frame of our structure is 900 mm, and the height of the frame is 830 mm, taking into account the distance from the floor to the lower prong of 150 mm.

   Holes made in the parts with a pen drill will help to hide the bolt heads and washers.

If desired, a shelf can be built in the underlay. To do this, a plywood panel is cut out to the size of the lower space, in the corners of which rectangular cutouts are made for the legs of the machine.

Installation of additional equipment

A real carpentry workbench cannot be imagined without fixtures designed to fasten workpieces. For this purpose, a vise is attached to the finished tabletop in such a way that their jaws are flush with the surface of the lid. To properly install the fixture on the workbench, a vice is applied to the machine and the attachment points are marked. After that, holes with a diameter of 12 mm are drilled and the tool is installed on the machine using a bolted connection with an M12 thread. When performing this operation, be sure to mill the holes for the washers and bolt heads.

View finished product with fixed vise

If it is not possible to install a stationary vice, you can do without them by using bench clamps or clamps.

In addition to the vise, stops are provided on the desktop. To do this, a series of holes are drilled in the countertop. Parts made of wood are considered the best stops, since metal fixtures can damage the workpiece. Nests under supporting elements placed at a distance equal to half the stroke of the vise. This will allow you to securely fix the workpiece of any size.

Video: DIY carpentry workbench

Building a carpentry workbench is a rather difficult task. However, a self-assembled machine will allow you to work in a convenient, comfortable environment. This requires not only to think over the ergonomics of the workspace and properly prepare the construction project, but also to perform the work in full accordance with the recommendations of professional carpenters. Only then the resulting product will be durable and stable, delighting its owner for many years of service.

I want to weld a workbench in the garage. Locksmith, as in the workshop.
To cook on it, and sharpen, and screw the vise, and put tools in boxes.

I was able to visualize my intentions. For a long time I went through different layout options and figured out the dimensions. I think I found the best option for me.

Metal parts are marked in blue, wooden parts are in yellow.
The tabletop will be made of a 50mm thick board, girded with a 50x50x4 corner and covered with a 2mm metal sheet. The frame of the workbench will be welded from a profile pipe 60x40x2. Stiffeners will be welded from a 40x40x4 corner. Shelves and side panels will be made of 30mm boards. From the 40x4 strip, guides for attaching the side panels will be made. The boxes will be welded from 2mm metal and mounted on a powerful skid.

For the purchase of metal, we agreed with Diky to order a Gazelle for two in order to pay less, and on Saturday at 8:30 in the morning, so as not to stretch it out for the whole day, we went to the metal depot.

The weather was slippery and with a cold wind. A loader in a tattered army pea jacket, who looked like he was suffering from a hangover, took out wet metal for cutting. Nearby, in a puddle, lay a dirty carrier with a grinder connected to it. Cut off pieces of rolled metal plopped into a slushy puddle. The ordered Gazelle was waiting nearby. It was getting light.

Do not consider me a maniac, but after arriving at the garage, I washed with water and wiped dry grubby rusty pieces of freshly bought metal. Anyway, clean it before painting, otherwise it will be more pleasant to work with it.

On that harsh January morning were bought:
1. Corner 50x50x4 6.4 meters
2. Pipe 60x40x2 24 meters
3. Corner 40x40x4 6.75 meters
4. Strip 40x4 8 meters
Only 121 kilograms of metal for 4000 rubles.
Now I will cook my workbench.

Cutting the main parts of the frame took two evenings, a total of five hours.
In total, it turns out that the skeleton of the workbench will consist of 45 welded parts.
The tags indicate what it is and where to weld it.

Now you can safely put everything on the back burner and surrender to the thick fetid sticky quagmire of everyday hopeless routine.

Welded brackets for the toolbar above the workbench.

And the base for a homemade countertop is welded.

The crossbars of the base for the worktop are welded flush with the corner. For this, figured cutouts are made in the crossbars. Here's a little sketch of what it looks like:

In the meantime, scalded the instrument panel brackets.

Overlays from 4mm strip reinforced loaded joints.

Welded 24 brackets for the side panels. The panels will be plywood - cheaper than metal and look better.

Brackets give additional rigidity to the entire structure.

I want to cover the countertop with a sheet of metal 4mm or 5mm. There is an office on Moskovsky Prospekt that immediately cuts sheets of metal to size. I need a 2200x750 sheet.
If you take a sheet of 2500x1250, then two good pieces will remain (2200x500 and 300x1250) or (2500x500 and 750x300), which can also be chopped into the desired size.
If such pieces are useful to someone, then [b]let's cooperate, otherwise it's a little expensive for one.

I made boxes from 15mm plywood. Assembled with 80mm screws. Each box contains 20 screws. It came out strong just the way I like it.

The size of each box is 0.6m x 0.7m x 0.2m

The sled was fastened by welding. I learned how to weld a 1mm tin to a 4mm strip with a 3mm electrode at a current of 100 amner. It's like putting in food processor 3 liter V8 car engine. It was just that the TIG was lazy to uncover. What's more, it's so secure.

Now I'm thinking about different options for facades.

This completes the welding phase. Ahead is a carpenter and a painter. Still in a trifle locksmith and electrically conductive.

Painting the frame of a homemade workbench.
I asked the seller to recommend a good paint.
- Wah, what nice paint I swear on mom! - he answered, holding out a can of paint over rust with metal chips for 500 rubles.

Covered the tabletop edged board 150x40. I fastened the boards to the frame with self-tapping screws 4.0x35. I used 60 screws in total.

I sanded the surface a little so that the sheet of metal lay denser.

Watered about protecting the tree from fire. Impregnated wood cannot sustain combustion on its own.
When the impregnated wood is heated, a melted film is formed, which does not burn and limits the access of oxygen to the surface. The manufacturer of my impregnation declared group I of fire retardant efficiency - the highest.

Of course, this does not allow you to cook metal directly on the surface of the workbench. All the same, if the boards do not catch fire, they will char. To organize a welding post, I plan to weld a removable grate that will reliably protect the surface of the countertop from thermal exposure.

After drying, I will cover the countertop with an already prepared 4mm metal sheet.

Covered the countertop with a 4mm sheet of metal. The sheet was attracted to a wooden base with rows of self-tapping screws with a hidden head. The tabletop turned out to be monumental.

Shields of 10mm plywood closed the extra openings in the frame of the workbench.
Pictured is the paint shop.

Has registered on a table-top of permanent tenants - a grinder and a vise. On a hefty tabletop, they are lost.

1) What is the best way to cover bare metal on a countertop? I'm leaning towards a rust converter, which will create a strong protective film and easy to update as needed. Maybe there are better ideas?
2) Where can I get a sturdy chair with adjustable height?

P.S. I think it will be interesting for those reading this thread - a bourgeois site with a bunch of ideas for welded tables and other welded things: http://www.pinterest.com/explore/welding-table/ You can find the manufacturing process for everything presented on the links.

Nevertheless, he decided and smeared the countertop with a rust converter. It is necessary to smear with a thin uniform layer.

While the countertop was drying finished with shelves in the left drawer

Well, in general, smearing the countertop was not a bad idea. It really turned out to be a film, as if varnished. True, it is not covered very neatly, but it is really easy to restore - because. The film is easily dissolved by a new portion of the transducer and dries again, hiding all old damage.

From the big one - it remains to make a panel for tools and place fasteners on it for everything-everything-everything.
I want to hang a sheet of plywood or solid furniture board 15mm thick and 2.2 meters x 1 meter in size. If anyone has one, I suggest an exchange for a sheet of metal 4mm 2.2 meters x 0.5 meters (left from the countertop).

Well, actually, for the sake of what ...

Test passed

Class! No more huddling with hand power tools on stools, lay out tools, fasteners, screwdrivers, taps and tape measures on all available shelves and nooks and crannies around and look for them, forgetting where to put them - all in one place and at hand.

Installed the instrument panel. Solid, from 21 mm plywood.

4 corners 50x50x4 plus plywood 21 mm plus 16 bolts 8x40 is equal to hang tens of kilograms of tools without fear of breaking something

Facades for drawers made from the remnants of the 21st plywood

That's all.
The dream workbench is ready. In some places, something came out crooked, but I am very pleased with the result.

The net weight of the workbench exceeded 200 kilograms. Worktop area 1.65 square meters, instrument panel area 2.2 square meters. The total volume of the left and right pedestals is almost one cubic meter. A feature of the workbench is that you can sit behind it when working with TIG, and the tabletop covered with a 4mm sheet of metal is not afraid mechanical damage. Roomy shelves, drawers and a panel allow you to conveniently store almost all the tools I have, providing convenient quick access to it.
Here is such a homemade workbench of dreams.
I think my great-grandchildren will work on it.

P.S. And after a little refinement, you get an excellent dressing table)) -816- http://gazeta-v.ru/catalog/detail/192_vizazhist_i_fotograf/15464_grimernyy_stol_svoimi_rukami/

Well, to put a bullet in the project a few more photos.

Self-tapping screws are screwed in and out quickly and easily (with a screwdriver, of course).

In time I will add spanners, holders for drills and screwdrivers, bracket for paper towels Oh, and extra lighting. Thankfully for two square meters there is room to expand. I made an awesome piece. Satisfied like an elephant.

Firstly, the small vise could not withstand the load and burst.

Instead, more powerful vices are installed. On one side they have a five-pointed star cast, on the other - the numbers 1958 - probably the year of issue. So they are 56 years old? Hope they last me the same. In general, a good vise is the pride of the master.

The photo shows that the table top does not protrude beyond the dimensions of the table at all. Therefore, when attaching a vice to the bolts, it will not be possible to crawl from below to tighten the nut. I thought so. The vise and sharpener are fixed to the tabletop with anchor bolts. Looks neat and holds deadly.

Secondly, it turned out that the deep drawers in the right cabinet are not very convenient. It would be better to make them smaller. I will invent some organizers inside them.

The rest turned out great. All tools in one place, in plain sight and always ready. On a large tabletop there is also where to decompose.

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