Do-it-yourself metal workbench: drawings. Do-it-yourself locksmith workbench Do-it-yourself wooden workbench in the garage drawings

Everyone knows that a garage is necessary in order to put a car in it. However, many car owners use this room as a warehouse for unnecessary things, and if space permits, they remake it into a small workshop. Therefore, appropriate equipment is installed in it - racks, shelves and a workbench. The latter is a multifunctional desktop used for processing various materials, performing plumbing, assembly and electromechanical work. Workbenches for the garage can be made by hand.

Garages are predominantly rectangular in shape, so when choosing a place for a workbench, certain features of using the future workplace should be taken into account:

• If the width of the garage is sufficient, then one of the long walls of the building will be the best place for the workbench, as this will allow you to make the table of the desired length and provide access to the workbench from three sides, which is very convenient, especially if two people work at the same time;
• If the workbench is installed at the end of the garage, you can take out all the fasteners for the vise and other fixtures on the front of the tabletop, distributing holes for clamps and other tools along the front longitudinal side of the table;
• Another option for the location of the workbench is along a long wall with an emphasis on the end wall, which makes it possible to use the approach to the table from two sides.

Advice! If vertical racks with cross bars are fixed on the side of the workbench adjacent to the wall, various tools can be conveniently placed on hooks or other types of holders, which will always be in sight.

The first experience of building equipment for the garage can be a simple wooden workbench or a wooden workbench. The design of a table made of timber is more affordable to manufacture, working with a saw, a jigsaw and a drill is much easier than cutting and welding a steel corner, from which professional quality locksmith tools are usually made.

We build a wooden workbench for assembly work

To build a workbench, we need:

1. Wooden beam, preferably oak or pine, about 12-15 m, the material section is selected individually, based on the expected load on the workbench;
2. Edged planed board, 20-30 mm thick, smooth, without knots and surface defects;
3. Sheet plywood, 6-8 mm thick, three canvases 200x60 cm;
4. A set of self-tapping screws for wood and steel corners, shelf size 50 mm and length from 50 to 70 mm, at least 40 pieces.

Advice! All cutting work must be carried out using a hand or stationary circular saw, cut the edges of the timber or boards only with a jigsaw or similar power tool.

In this case, even in the absence of carpentry skills, the cut is even, respectively, the entire design of the workbench will look like a factory one.

At the first stage, we make the frame of the workbench, while taking into account the dimensions of the space in the garage. To do this, you will need to cut four vertical posts, four horizontal beams and five horizontal short transverse struts from the timber. If the dimensions of the wooden workbench for the garage do not exceed two meters, you can use a bar with a section of 70x70 mm.

We cut off four vertical racks - two 90 cm high, two 150 cm each. The latter are made 60 cm higher, after the assembly of the workbench is completed, a plywood screen for the tool stored in the garage will be installed on them.

Horizontal beams are also of different sizes. To bandage the support legs of the frame in the lower part of the workbench, we cut off two sections of a beam of 150 cm each, to fasten the tabletop, we need 200 cm pieces.

We assemble the entire structure using steel corners and self-tapping screws, as shown in the diagram.

We assemble the tabletop by gluing together from plywood sheets and boards. After leveling and adjusting the dimensions of the boards and plywood, smeared with PVA-M or wood glue, we assemble in clamps until completely dry and cured. We sew the countertop along the contour with self-tapping screws.

We lay the tabletop on the finished frame and fasten it with self-tapping screws, after which the surface is carefully polished with an emery nozzle for an electric drill. We install the screen last and cover the entire structure with varnish so that in wet weather in the garage the wood of the workbench does not “lead”.

In appearance, the workbench for the garage turned out to be quite openwork, but in reality its strength is enough to withstand a load of more than one hundred kilograms. To increase rigidity, the rear racks can be anchored to the walls of the garage.

Required tool:

• Bulgarian with a circle for cutting metal and a grinding disc.
• Welding machine and electrodes.
• Overalls and protective devices for welding.
• Level.
• Roulette.
• Screwdriver.
• Jigsaw for cutting plywood.
• Drill.

Necessary materials:

• Corner 50 mm by 50 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.4 m.
• Square pipe 60 mm by 40 mm, thickness 2 mm, length 24 m.
• Corner 40 mm by 40 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.75 m.
• Steel strip 40 mm wide, 4 mm thick, 8 m long.
• Steel sheet for countertop 2200 mm by 750 mm. Thickness 2 mm.
• Steel sheet for making drawer holders. Thickness 2 mm.
• Wooden boards for countertops. Thickness 50 mm.
• Plywood for the manufacture of drawers and for the side and back walls of the table. Thickness 15mm
• Guides for drawers.
• Screws for assembling plywood boxes.
• Self-tapping screws for metal.
• Anchor bolts.
• Paint for wood and metal.

The workbench, which will be made from these materials, has quite impressive dimensions: the length of the table is 220 cm, the width is 75 cm.

First step making a workbench is cutting the existing material into elements. The profile pipe is intended for the manufacture of the frame. The steel corner is designed to create stiffeners. It is cut into pieces and a power frame is formed from it. Also, a steel corner is needed for edging the tabletop on which the boards will be laid. The steel strip is intended for the manufacture of guides on which the side panels will be attached. Also, this material will go to the brackets for attaching boxes and plywood. Table drawers are made of plywood.

Second step- welding of the power frame of the workbench. The elements of the countertop are welded first - 2 pipes 2200 mm long and 2 pipes 750 mm each. The frame must be welded so that another frame of corners can be welded on top of it, into which the tabletop boards will be laid. To reinforce the countertop, it is required to weld a few more steel pipes after 40 cm, which will act as stiffeners.

Then 4 side legs are welded along the edges of the workbench. Their length is 900 mm. Power jumpers are welded between the legs, strengthening the structure.

After the base frame is ready, you can start welding the structure for the boxes. To do this, square frames are formed from steel pipes, which are welded to the tabletop on both sides of the table. Frames are reinforced with longitudinal stiffeners.

Third step- Making a frame for the tabletop. Two steel corners, 2200 mm long and two more corners 750 mm long, are needed to make the frame. The structure is welded so that wooden boards lie inside it.

The frame from the corner is laid on the frame of pipes and welded. It turns out a reinforced tabletop, 8 cm high with internal stiffeners.

The metal frame of the workbench is almost ready, it remains to weld the crate of the panel for attaching the tool. This requires one metal corner with a length of 2200 mm and 4 corners with a length of 950 mm. Two elements are attached to the sides of the structure and two in the middle, for reinforcement. The toolbar is welded to the worktop.

The frame of the corners and pipes is ready. You can start strengthening the structure. Brackets are welded to the sidewalls of the table, which are cut from a steel strip. A total of 24 parts are needed. A hole is drilled in the middle of each bracket. Using these holes, the side and back walls of the plywood table will be attached to the metal frame of the workbench.

Fourth step- production of boxes for a table. Plywood is cut into blanks, which are twisted with screws. The number of drawers depends on what will be stored in the table. If the details are small, then 3 boxes can be built, if large - then 2. It all depends on personal preference.

You can place drawers on two sides of the table, you can mount pull-out structures on one half, and ordinary open shelves on the second.

After the drawers are assembled, metal strips with holes need to be welded between the sides of the drawer compartments. Slides for drawer guides will be attached to these holes on the inside.

Fifth step- laying boards in the frame of the tabletop. Boards with a thickness of 50 mm are cut into blanks of a certain length. If a long board is available, then you need three blanks 245 mm wide and 2190 mm long. If there are no long boards available, then you can lay the blanks across the table. For this purpose, wood 205 mm wide is cut into 10 blanks 740 mm long.

Before laying the wood in the table frame, it must be treated with an antiseptic solution. This will protect the material from rotting and damage by beetles.

Then it is mandatory to paint the entire metal structure of the workbench. This will protect the metal from corrosion. It is best to use a weatherproof and anti-corrosive coating option. Be especially careful when painting welding seams. Drops of metal and irregularities are recommended to be thoroughly cleaned before painting. This can be done using an angle grinder with a metal grinding disc.

After the structure is dry, you can start laying the boards on the countertop. They should not be driven too tightly into the frame. This is due to the fact that the tree tends to expand and shrink with a change in temperature and humidity. It is better to leave a small gap of a few millimeters between the boards. The surface of the wood needs to be sanded, this will make it easier to lay the metal sheet on top of the wood. Boards around the entire perimeter of the table are screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws.

sixth step- fastening of the upper steel sheet. It can be welded to the countertop, but there is wood inside the structure, which can ignite during the welding process. Therefore, it is best to attach the steel sheet with hidden self-tapping screws to the wooden planks. Previously, the metal must be painted on both sides with a rust converter. This covering material looks like a transparent paint coating, is easily restored and reliably protects the metal from rust. You can also paint the metal countertop with the same paint that covered the frame. It will be beautiful, but over time, the paint may scratch and the table will not look too new.

final step- installation of boxes on rails and fastening of plywood on the side walls, shelves and power shield in front of the table. This work can be called the finishing of the workbench. After work with plywood is over, it must be coated with a composition that will protect the material from environmental influences. Also, do not forget about the design of the power shield for tools. You can attach special hooks or screws to it, to which the necessary things will be hung.

In order to make it convenient to work at the workbench, you can attach a special lamp with a bending stand to the power shield. In this case, you can optionally direct the flow of light to the right place.

A vice is an indispensable attribute of a locksmith's workbench. It is not recommended to attach a clamping tool weighing several tens of kilograms to the tabletop itself. It is best to place a metal gasket between the metal of the table and the tool, 1 cm thick. It is required to drill holes for the anchor bolts in the gasket. Then, in the same places, drill holes in the countertop of the same size. The whole structure is fastened with anchor bolts.

The general principle of the development of material processing technology from prehistoric times to the present day is how to make details on inaccurate equipment for more accuracy. And it all started with a workbench, its prototypes are found during excavations of Stone Age settlements. It is quite possible to build a workbench, and a full-fledged one, with your own hands, and this will not only save a significant amount, but also simplify, facilitate work and improve its result.

Three mistakes

Amateurs, sometimes, judging by their designs, very experienced, knowledgeable and diligent, sometimes make workbenches for themselves, on which, figuratively speaking, a tank can be smashed with a sledgehammer. They take a lot of time and labor, and hardly less money than a good branded amateur workbench. Repetition in the design for own use of industrial prototypes designed for intensive work in 3 shifts and a static load of more than a ton, with a service life of 20 years or more, is one of the typical mistakes in the development of workbenches of our own design.

The second is the neglect of vibrations. Not a clearly felt “play” or “recoil”, but a small tremor that significantly complicates the work and reduces its quality. Vibrations are especially strong in workbenches on a metal bed.

Third - repeat carpentry or locksmith workbenches; perhaps with some tweaks to your liking. Meanwhile, there are many designs of workbenches for home / amateur work of a different nature. There are workbenches that are more or less specialized or, on the contrary, universal, temporary from improvised materials, etc.

In this article we will figure out how to make a workbench taking into account these errors, firstly, simpler and cheaper according to the range of needs and / or hobbies of the craftsman. Secondly, how to make a general-purpose workbench or a universal workbench for special conditions of use - in a cramped garage, under carpentry at a construction site from improvised trash, home for fine precision work, for children.

About universal workbenches

Among the branded products, sometimes very expensive, you can find "universal" workbenches in the form of a carpenter's with a lid without a tray, a complete bench vise on a wooden cushion, and a clamp for installing them, like the one in the photo:

“Universal” prefabricated workbench

This is the wrong decision, not only because the wooden countertop deteriorates from carpentry. The main thing that is bad here is the technological fluids used in metal processing - oil, kerosene, etc. The wood impregnated with them becomes much more combustible. Self-ignition is also possible; remember, it is strictly forbidden to accumulate oiled rags in production. The approach to designing the countertop (board, cover) of a universal workbench needs a different one based on what kind of work it is mainly used for - thin or rough, see below.

work bench

In the West, amateur / home workbenches with a type-setting worktop framed by a side are widespread. Drawings of such a "working bench" are given in fig. Under the locksmith, the lid is covered with a sheet of steel 1.5-2 mm thick and a vice is placed on the pillow.

The workbench dampens vibrations well; You can make it from pine or spruce. But the design is complicated, it is inconvenient to work with lengthy materials and furniture on such a workbench. Therefore, we will first look at how to make the most common carpentry workbench, then garage and metalwork. Next, we will try to combine them into a universal workbench and see what we can come up with on this basis for special needs.

The composition of the workbench

The workbench of "our" type (conditionally, since it is impossible to establish its origin exactly) consists of:

• Underwork (in carpentry workbenches), or bed (in metalwork), ensuring the stability of the entire unit and the ergonomics of the workplace.
• Covers, box-shaped or in the form of a tray, giving the work area the necessary rigidity.
• Shelves; possibly with a tray, nests, and stops on which work operations are performed.
• The apron on which the tool is hung. The apron is not a mandatory accessory of the workbench, it can hang on the wall or be replaced by a pedestal, rack, etc.

Note: workbench height approx. 900 mm. The length and width are selected according to the place of installation and the type of work within 1200-2500 and 350-1000 mm, respectively.

A lid with a shelf is most often made at the same time, one-piece, and is simply called a lid, benchtop or table top. To dampen vibrations, the shelf is always made on the basis (bed, substrate) of wood. In a locksmith's workbench, the bed is covered with a steel sheet from 2 mm thick and can be made of coniferous wood. Its overall strength is sufficient, and the steel tire protects the tree from local damage and ingress of technical fluids. In a carpenter's workbench, a bed made of high-quality (without knots, strands, and other defects) solid small-layer wood (oak, beech, hornbeam, elm, walnut) serves at the same time as a shelf; -layer construction, see below.

The traditional construction of the bench, on the contrary, is collapsible from the same wood as the joiner's shelf. This comes from the master covens of the past, who transported their equipment from customer to customer on a cart. It is from the bed / underbench that you should start developing your workbench no worse, but simpler than traditional ones.

Bed: metal or wood?

A stationary wooden workbench has advantages over that on a steel frame, not only in lower cost and labor intensity. Wood, firstly, is not plastic. A workbench on a wooden base can be broken, but if the wood is used seasoned and impregnated, it will never buckle. Secondly, the tree perfectly dampens vibrations. The foundations of your buildings are not reinforced vibration-absorbing ones, like workshops at a factory, are they? And the overall strength and stability of the bed of a home workbench will be fully provided by coniferous commercial wood of ordinary quality.

The design of the wooden frame of the workbench made of boards 120x40 is shown on the left in fig. Permissible static load - 150 kgf; dynamic vertically down for 1 s - 600 kgf. Corner posts (legs) are assembled on self-tapping screws 6x70 in a zigzag (snake) with an indent from the edge of 30 mm and a step of 100-120 mm. Double-sided fastening; snakes on both sides of the package are mirrored. Intermediate support beams are fastened with steel corners on self-tapping screws; edge - with pairs of self-tapping screws at the spikes of the racks and, outside, with corners.

If a beam of 150x50 or (180…200)x60 is available, the design can be simplified, as shown in the center in fig. The bearing capacity will increase to 200/750 kgf. And from a bar 150x150, 150x75 and (180 ... 200) x60, you can build a frame that can carry 450 kgf in statics and 1200 in dynamics, on the right in Fig.

Note: any of these beds is suitable for both carpentry and locksmith workbenches. A box-shaped cover is placed on it under the carpentry (see below), and under the locksmith a tray from a 60x60x4 corner with welded 4 mm strips above the intermediate beams. A wooden pillow is placed in the tray and covered with steel, also see below.

If there is no welding

An all-wood workbench, without the need for welding to manufacture it, can be made according to the scheme on the trail. rice. The “chip” here is in the tabletop, glued from a 75x50 bar and fastened with ties. If the beam is oak, then the permissible load is 400/1300 kgf. Corner posts - timber 150x150; the rest is timber 150x75.

Metal

It happens the other way around: metal is more accessible than wood, and there is welding. Then the workbench table for a load of 100/300 kgf can be assembled according to the drawing on the left in fig. Materials - corner 35x35x3 and 20x20x2. Drawers are galvanized. The disadvantage is that it is impossible to make an opening at the bottom for the legs, the structure will lose its ability to carry a dynamic load.

Under a load of 200/600, a more convenient metal workbench is suitable according to the scheme at the top right of a professional pipe 50x50 (corner posts), 30x30 (other vertical parts) and a corner 30x30x3. The plank cushion of both workbenches is laid only across (bottom right) from tongue-and-groove boards (120 ... 150) x40.

Shelf - steel 2 mm. The shelf is attached to the pillow with 4x (30 ... 35) self-tapping screws, a pair from each edge of each board, and along the extreme boards - with a step of (60 ... 70) mm. Only in this design, the workbench will show the specified load-bearing capacity.

These workbenches are already universal: under the carpentry, the lid is turned over with the wooden side up or adapted, as described below. The locksmith's vise is mounted on a wooden cushion, but is not fastened with a clamp. A collet anchor under the M10-M14 bolt is driven into the vice cushion from below, and a through hole is drilled under it in the cover. A washer from 60x2 is placed under the bolt head. This solution is convenient because it is possible to use inexpensive non-rotating vise.

For carpentry

The lid of the carpentry workbench, in contrast to the metalwork, is tightly attached to the workbench and is box-shaped, for general rigidity. The best mounting option for a non-separable workbench is steel corners and self-tapping screws. Podverstache can also be a steel bed from those described above.

How a traditional carpentry workbench is arranged is shown in pos. And rice; accessories to it in pos. B. The workbench (in this case, this is a separate device) is used to work with a long length. The emphasis in its groove is made from a wedged trimming of the board, see below. It is advisable to drill a longitudinal row of holes in the board and fasten it into the sockets with sunken cone-head bolts. The traditional construction of a carpentry underbench is shown in pos. G, but - see above.

The cover of the carpentry workbench can be made cheaper by making a 2-layer, pos. Q. Then high-quality hardwood boards will only be needed for a shelf. They lay it down, laying the boards with “peas” of annual layers alternately up and down, in order to avoid warping. The flooring of the shelf is first rallied with PVA glue or carpentry, tightly squeezing with a clamp or wrapping it with a cord; put on a pillow on the same glue. The skirt of the lid is assembled separately with glue and through spikes (insert at pos. B) and is attached to the pillow-shelf package with self-tapping screws.

Vice for carpentry

All-wood carpentry vices, front and chair, are now almost completely replaced by a vice with a metal screw clamp, pos. D; their device is shown in pos. E. Some remarks are needed here.

First, you need to put 2-3 steel washers under the head of the clamping screw, otherwise it will quickly eat through the pillow (4x4x1 cm piece of wood). Second - if the nut is not custom-made and not purchased shaped, then get at least for a while a set of taps for the thread used. In this case, do not try to use too thick a screw for evenness and smoothness of the clamp; M12-M16 is enough.

The nut of a home-made clamping pair is welded onto a base with a diameter of 60 mm or more, square, from 70x70 mm. It is not necessary to sink it into the clamp pad, so it is less likely that the nut will be torn off when clamping. But the thread will ugly lead away from welding, you can’t drive it away with a bolt. The thread of the welded nut will need to be tapped according to the full scheme, as when cutting: the first tap - the second - the third (if included in the kit).

Note: the nut welded on the base must be allowed to rest for at least 2 hours before the thread passes, so that the residual deformations “subside”.

Vice and carpentry for a locksmith

The vise on the locksmith's workbench is installed in the corner (see sidebar in the figure), so that as much as possible of the dynamic loads during metal processing falls vertically on the corner post. The location of the cross beams and intermediate vertical racks of a workbench with a stationary vice is desirable to be made a little asymmetrical, placing them at smaller intervals towards the corner with a vice. The installation of the vice is also carried out starting from the corner:

• A collet anchor is driven into the wooden corner post under the mounting bolt, and a high nut or threaded sleeve is welded into the metal post (attachment point 1 at the bottom left in the figure);
• If the fastener is welded, thread with taps, as in a homemade carpenter's vice nut, see above;
• Put a vice temporarily on 1 bolt and mark holes for fixing points 2, 3 and 4 in place;
• The vise is removed and through holes 2, 3 and 4 are drilled;
• Put a vise on the bolts 1, 2 and 3;
• For fastening to bolt 4, a jib U is placed under the cover (tabletop) from a wooden beam from 60x60 or a professional pipe from 40x40. It is not necessary to fix the jib, but it should rest from under the bottom against the upper frame (strap) of the bed, but not against the tabletop!
• Attach the vise finally to the bolt 4.

Note: stationary power tools are also fixed in the same way, for example. emery.

Under the carpentry

A locksmith's workbench can also be adapted for carpentry work if you drill 2-4 pairs of holes in the tabletop for fixing the carpentry stop (on the right and in the center in the figure). In this case, round bosses are screwed to the bottom surface of the stop with self-tapping screws; corks from plastic bottles work well, they withstand tight fitting many times.

Garage workbench

A workbench in the garage cannot be made optimal in terms of ergonomics of the width of the workplace - the dimensions of a standard box 4x7 m with a car standing in it do not allow. For a long time already, through trial and error, the width of the garage workbench was determined at 510 mm: it is quite convenient to turn between it and the hood, and you can more or less work. A narrow workbench under a heavy load (for example, a motor taken out for bulkhead) is unstable, so it is made attached to the wall. Often - angular, this increases stability, but any wall-mounted workbench "responds" stronger than a workbench-table of the same design

The scheme of the device of one section of the garage workbench is given in fig. In this design, an ingenious method of additional damping of vibrations is used: cells of the frames of the cover and the lower shelf of the edge farthest from the corner of different sizes. The accuracy of the installation of the crossbars is +/- 1 cm. For the same purpose, the cover and the lower shelf are made of chipboard 32 mm thick and covered with linoleum instead of steel. For garage work, its durability is sufficient; replaced without difficulty.

Fastening to the walls - self-tapping screws from 8 mm or bolts from M8 with a pitch of 250-350 mm. Deepening into a stone wall 70-80 mm; in wooden 120-130 mm. Propylene dowels are placed under the screws in the stone wall; for bolts - collet anchors.

More for the garage

Another version of the garage workbench is already on the wall, and on the wall, on the left in fig. It can only be mounted on stone walls. Bench board folding 2-layer; each layer of plywood 10-12mm. Opening under the machine with a stepped inner edge. In this case, a “milling cutter” means a mini-drilling machine with a movable rotary table and a workpiece clamp. The design is convenient in that the chips fall immediately onto the floor.

If your car is something like a Daewoo or Chery with a 3-cylinder engine, and the garage is very small, then you can put a folding mini workbench with a lifting tabletop in it, on the right in the figure; it will also fit into the house for fine work (electronics, precision mechanics). The tabletop is suspended on a piano hinge, the legs are on card hinges. For folding, the legs are tucked under the tabletop (it would be useful to tie them with a leg), and the tabletop is lowered.

Note: for a cramped garage with an ordinary city car, a folding workbench-box may be optimal, see the video below.

Video: folding workbench box

Home station wagon

At home, they are engaged in smaller, but painstaking technical creativity: soldering, modeling, watchmaking, artistic sawing out of plywood, etc. For fine fine work, a universal workbench is suitable, the drawings of which and its accessories are given in fig. The resistance of the work surface and its vibration absorption in this case are not as important as evenness, smoothness and some adhesion (“stickiness” of parts), so the table top is covered with linoleum. Locksmith vices for this workbench need small, with screw clamping.

More about plywood

In fact, it is undesirable to work with metal “roughly” on plywood, because. she calls back well. If, however, the pillow of the board of the locksmith's workbench is nevertheless made of plywood, then a frame (frame) must also be glued to its bottom on the PVA, also made of plywood, see fig. Then it is desirable to cover the upper (working side) first with unlined linoleum, and then lay steel on it.

To the rising shift

Another case where making a workbench out of plywood is justified is a student's workbench for a child. Pedagogical considerations play a role here: let him learn to feel the material and not to beat for nothing, but to work carefully. For the same purpose, the masters of the past deliberately gave students a bad instrument.

Workbenches in the country

When a country house or other light wooden structure is still under construction, there is no time for bench wisdom, you need at least something on which you can perform simple carpentry work. For such a case, you can quickly put together a carpentry workbench for giving from improvised materials, on the left in fig. The design is remarkable in that it clearly and fully embodies the principle: we do good things with bad equipment.

For subsequent work on the arrangement of the dacha, a mini-workbench is useful, on the right in fig. With a minimum consumption of material and an extremely simple design, it is stable enough for ordinary carpentry work in all respects, because. the middle of the workbench is supported by a pair of struts. If you put them on bolts, the workbench will turn out to be collapsible and stand in the pantry from weekend to weekend. For disassembly, after releasing the struts, the spacer is removed with them, and the legs are tucked under the board. Finally, for a dacha, inhabited permanently or all summer, with a master owner, by the way, you will have a more complex, but fully functional folding workbench, see the video below.

Dear visitors of the site "Visiting Samodelkin", in the material presented, you will be shown how to independently make a durable and reliable workbench in a workshop or garage.
Well, you can’t do without a workbench in the garage, you always need to repair, disassemble, assemble something, and where to do it if not on a workbench, the vise is screwed to the tabletop and all the necessary tools are always at hand.

The workbench is designed for locksmith work, it has a metal frame made of a corner and a professional pipe, as well as convenient boxes for storing small tools, bolts, nuts and other useful little things, there are also convenient shelves, and the tabletop itself must be finished with iron 1.5-2 mm thick. In addition, a tool panel is attached to the back of the table, which is also very convenient because the necessary will hang right in front of you, it is also desirable to bring a socket or tee to the panel so that you can connect a power tool.

It is necessary to protect metal surfaces from corrosion, namely, to cover them with an anti-corrosion compound and paint, so the table will always look neat and serve you for many years.

And so, let's look at what exactly is needed to make a workbench?

materials
1. professional square pipe
2. corner 40x40 mm
3. metal sheet 2mm
4. plywood
5. metal screws
6. paint
7. impregnation for wood
8. wood screws
9. anti-corrosion coating
10. metal plate
11. furniture guides for drawers

Tools

1. welding machine
2. grinder (UShM)
3. drill
4. tape measure
5. hacksaw
6. jigsaw
7. brush
8. hammer
9. screwdriver
10. ruler
11. marker
12. level
13. corner
14. sandpaper
15. grinder

Step-by-step instructions for creating a workbench with your own hands.

Assembly and installation of this table in a garage or workshop is a serious and responsible matter. When making it, you must first of all know that it must be stable and withstand a load of about 200 kg, check the level for distortions, because it is desirable that the table eventually turn out to be even. Before starting work, you should study the drawings and diagrams provided by the author.

After that, the master welded the basis for the future workbench from a professional square pipe.

The places of welding were carefully cleaned with a grinder (angle grinder)

I welded metal corners to the back of the table, a tool panel will be fixed on them.

Then the area under the countertop is reinforced, namely, additional pipes are welded.

The tabletop itself will be made of a 50 mm board, and for its placement, the author made a frame from a corner.

After that, all joints must be reinforced with metal plates.

Spacers are welded into the corners.

Various loads will act on the workbench: weight, shock, vibration, etc., at the creation stage, all these moments must be taken into account and reinsured.

For the convenience of storing small tools, spare parts, bolts and nuts, the master made special plywood boxes.

The surface of the workbench is painted with paint.

Furniture guides are screwed onto the drawers on the sides.

The tree will take some of the load from shock, vibration and weight.

The resulting surface should be well polished, the master used a grinder (angle grinder) with a grinding wheel for this.

In order for the tree to serve for a long time and not rot under the metal, it should be treated with a special impregnation for wood.

After that, a sheet of metal 2 mm is cut to the size of the tabletop.

The metal must be treated on both sides with an anti-corrosion compound so that the metal sheet does not rust.

The drawers are installed in the cavity of the table where the master has mounted a slide under each drawer.

Thus, the drawers will be conveniently opened and closed.

Each drawer has a handle on the front for easy opening.

On the finished workbench, for example, emery can be placed by bolting it to the tabletop.

At the bottom there are open shelves where you can store power tools.

It is very convenient to work when you have everything at hand and collected in one place.

You can also install a vice on the workbench, which is also screwed to the tabletop with bolts and tightened with nuts.

The garage space is often used not only for the purpose of storing a car, vegetables in the basement. Here you can make minor repairs to some equipment, sort out the engine and make part of the broken mechanism. An excellent assistant in this situation is a special table called a workbench.

Professional craftsmen have several of them: allowing you to work with wood and metal.

The workbench is the foundation of all locksmith work. It is believed that the birthplace of the workbench is Germany. It is a multifunctional table for plumbing, electrical, technical work and metal or wood processing. It is equipped with a large number of racks, cabinets and shelves.

Workbench layout.

A vise and other tools necessary for work are installed on it. In the course of work, you can use any other power tool. Also, places and fastenings of drawings and other technological documentation are often provided.

Among its other advantages, I would like to note functionality, durability and reliability. The workbench is able to withstand huge loads and remain intact after that. This is not just a table, but a whole mini workshop with the ability to store tools, parts and blanks.

The more shelves, cabinets and drawers, the more functional the design, and the easier it is to work on it.

If the workbench is single, then its dimensions should correspond to the following parameters: height 0.8-0.9 m, width 0.7-0.8 m, length 1.2-1.5 m. The design will be more convenient and adjustable height 50 -250 mm. If the workbench is double/many, it is increased in length.

The workbench will serve as a good helper for any craftsman and the garage where it is located can already be considered a real workshop.

Types of workbenches

Workbenches are single and multi-seat. The dimensions of a single room are approximately 70 * 80 * 130 cm, they increase with the expansion of the workplace for several people. Each field of work uses its own type of workbenches.

Workbench dimensions.

Let's consider them in more detail.

1. Locksmith workbench.
2. Joiner's workbench.
3. Carpentry workbench.
4. Universal workbench.

Locksmith is used mainly for working with metal. It has a powerful, durable frame and a wooden cover, the thickness of which is 40-60 cm. Edges are attached to the edges of the tabletop so that small details are not lost from the table.

From above, the structure is covered with an iron, plywood sheet, and linoleum is used to perform precise work. The worktop on such workbenches is quite powerful, in several types of execution.

The best option is an MDF board covered with galvanized iron sheet. The thickness of the plate should not exceed the limit of 25-30 cm. Such a countertop is able to withstand heavy loads and shocks, and is also perfectly cleaned of dirt and resists the effects of substances that can corrode and modify surfaces.

In order to store tools and small parts on the workbench, a system of shelves and drawers is always provided. The design of the drawers is somewhat different from what we are used to in home furniture. To withstand huge loads, use guides on bearings.

This structure allows you to extend the drawer to its full length and avoid tipping over. One or more vices are attached to the top of the tabletop, which are necessary for working with oversized parts.

Carpentry is used more often at work with wood. Such a table consists of a cover and a bench made of soft wood, such as pine. It consists of 2 posts connected by means of longitudinal bars with screws and, alternatively, with wedges.

The lid is made of hardwood 60-80 cm thick and covered with drying oil. A recess is made in the far back of the tabletop, where small parts and tools are stored.

A vise is installed on the front left or right. The standard version of the design is used for the purpose of fixing and processing parts manually and does not involve the use of power tools due to the limited number of options for fixing workpieces.

Drawing of a complete set of a workbench.

A series of holes are made in the countertop, where various stops and clamps are installed.

Carpenter is a type that is used much less frequently due to its specificity. The length of his table is on average 6 m, and the width is 1 m. On the table there is a special stop with a wedge triangular cutout, where the workpiece is based and fixed.

On a universal workbench, you can work with wood and metal. Its design can be disassembled and moved.

In order to increase the efficiency of work on this type of workbench, special interchangeable pads are applied to the vise jaws and other fixing elements, which allows you to work alternately with wooden and metal parts.

Workbenches differ not only in terms of use, but also in their mobility and are divided into the following types:

1. Stationary.
   Strongly fixed to one place of work and good for working with wood.
2. Mobile.
   Small workbenches weighing up to 25 kg and measuring approximately 60x70 cm. They are used when working with small parts. The legs are made of metal for added stability.
3. Composite.
   Workbenches mounted among themselves by means of bolts. Their main advantage is to simply replace parts and disassemble the tool.

As a desk for a writer, so for a locksmith, a craftsman and a person who loves to do everything with his own hands, a workbench is a necessary attribute of a comfortable and fruitful work. It allows you to arrange all the tools and materials so that you do not have to look for them and be distracted in the process.

Such a scheme will increase productivity and keep nerve cells in order.

The workbench consists of the following structural elements:

1. Frame.
   The main bearing part of the entire structure is a block of buildings on supports. They must be connected to each other to ensure the stability and strength of the structure.
2. Tabletop.
   A powerful element consisting of a thick board, a thick metal sheet, or a combination of these materials. Very often it is made of metal, and professional carpenters prefer wood countertops. Holes must be made on the front of the tabletop in order to install clamps, wedges, vise and other tools necessary to fix the workpieces. In the back of the tabletop, there is a recess along the length where small tools are stored.
3. Cabinet.
   Consists of sliding shelves and drawers. Pedestals, used to store small tools, parts, it is better to make several and place them along the edges of the workbench.
4. Vice.
   There are front and rear vices that serve to fix the workpieces being processed.
5. Additional shelf.
   It is installed under the tabletop and is used to store things needed during work.
6. Lighting.
   Good lighting is an equally important element of fruitful, high-quality work and maintaining eye health. It is necessary to install a lamp that rotates in all directions. It can be hung above the workbench, but it is better to mount the lighting in the structure so that when the workbench is moved to a new place, the lighting is always at hand.

The workbench does not have a complex design. If it is not planned to carry out heavy shock work on it, and there are no special requirements for it, it is quite realistic to convert a simple desk to workbenches.

How to make a metal workbench with your own hands

Drawing of a workbench for assembly.

Today, the market offers a large number of tools and equipment that allows you to store them in convenient places. Many companies can provide fairly good models of workbenches. But there is one problem: not all standard designs can fit into the garage and satisfy the requirements of its owner.

Indeed, very often such premises are made according to their non-standard sizes or are limited by the space allocated for construction.

The best way out of this situation is to build a workbench with your own hands. In its design, you can lay all the elements that are convenient and suitable for work. The vast majority of the time at the workbench, the work is done in a standing position, but it is important to provide a chair and a wooden trellis on the floor if the floor is concrete.

The lattice is easy to make from wooden pallets.

In addition, the design of the workbench with a pallet and seat should not interfere with the storage of a car and other equipment in the garage. If it is planned to work with wood, cut and plan on the workbench, good exhaust ventilation should be provided.

Tools and materials

There are many typical designs of workbenches and sizes, of course, you need to choose for yourself and your workspace in the garage.

When developing a project, one should take into account what kind of work is planned to be done on the table, what tools and parts the owner of the workbench is going to store on shelves and in drawers, and also take into account individual parameters.

A metal workbench is an excellent choice as it has many advantages such as durability, versatility, ease of maintenance and more.

So, the project is ready, the estimate is calculated. We proceed directly to the manufacture of our metal assistant.

Diagram of a workbench for a garage.

During the work you will need the following materials:

• corners measuring 50x50, 5 cm thick, with a total length of 6.5 meters;
• corners 60x40 in size, 3 cm thick, with a total length of 25 meters;
• corners 40x40 in size, 4 cm thick, with a total length of 7 meters;
• metal strip 4*45 mm, total length 8 meters;
• sheet under the tabletop 220x75 cm, 2 mm thick;
• board under the tabletop sheet 220x75, 40 mm thick;
• drawer guides;
• plywood 15 mm thick for boxes, in the required quantity;
• screws, bolts, self-tapping screws, washers;
• dye.

Correct assembly of the above elements - and you get a workbench 70 cm wide and 220 cm long. The product is enough so that the arrangement of the vise and the circular saw does not interfere with the work process.

You will also need a tool that is available to almost any man doing household chores.

• welding machine;
• Bulgarian;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• jigsaw;
• building level;
• roulette;
• sandpaper;
• metal brushes;
• brushes.

Having such a simple set of tools and materials, you can build an indispensable assistant to any master.

Progress

We cut the profile and the strip into the necessary parts, according to the drawing. The strip will be used to install the guides and fasten the side panels to the table, and the corner in the manufacture of a powerful frame.

First, cook the top of the countertop. Using a welding machine, we connect 4 pipes, 2 by 220 cm and two by 70 cm. Transversely we weld the stiffeners in steps of 40-50 cm, and at the upper end we install a corner in order to fix the countertop on it.

We weld the side supports, which are 90 cm to the top, and strengthen them with a profile on the central lintels.

Next, we mount the panel under the power tool to the finished base part of the frame. You can also make a folding model, but welded in a more reliable way. Corners 220 cm and 4 by 95 cm will be good load-bearing elements. They are boiled on the central part of the frame in the amount of 2 pieces, and 2 more at the edges. A long corner is boiled on their upper contour.

Components of a workbench for a garage.

The frame is ready and it remains for us to weld strips of metal on the supporting parts for fastening the plywood sheathing. We reinforce the corner parts with jumpers, giving more power to the base.

Then we are engaged in the manufacture of the necessary structural element - boxes. They are made from 15 mm plywood by cutting. Cut and fasten parts with screws. Guides are fixed to the sides.

After making the boxes, we proceed to the countertop. Wood should be treated with an antiseptic - this procedure will increase its durability. Whether they are laid lengthwise or across is not so important, and it all depends on the length of the boards.

Then they need to be sanded and covered on top with a metal sheet fixed with self-tapping screws. At the very end, all surfaces are painted.

Drawers are installed on already mounted rails and are also painted. It is convenient, practical and with quick access to parts, tools, to use open shelves on the opposite side of the table.

On the countertop, in a convenient corner, a vice is installed, which is a very important assistant in the work. When fixing the vise with anchors, it will not be superfluous to put a metal plate between them and the table top, which will help them to be securely fixed.

To increase the functionality of the workplace will help power tools installed at the corners of the tabletop. A circular saw, electric jigsaw and a drilling machine will greatly facilitate the work.

The above design of the workbench is able to withstand loads of about 200 kg, but if there is not enough space in the garage, then you can make a smaller workbench. In any case, if you are not sure that you can make it yourself, it is better to buy a ready-made factory workbench that meets all safety requirements.

Installing a vice on a locksmith's workbench

Sometimes, when processing parts, a rigid fixation is necessary, for this purpose a metalwork vice is used - a tool with which you can fix any part that corresponds to the nomenclature of these vices. They are widely used not only in production, but also in home workshops.

Assembly workbench dimensions.

Vices are a good helper for the home master and are used quite often because they have a number of advantages:

• Strength.
  The vise is made of high-strength steel, so they have a high strength characteristic. They tolerate shock loads and vibration well. With the help of a vice, you can easily work with heavy and complex tools.
• Setting.
  Vices have a wide range of settings, they can be adapted to work with any details. The workpiece can be mounted in any way, at any angle of inclination, shifted in any direction. Details of various shapes, channels, pipes, rods are fixed in the sponges. They can also be used in the processing of wooden, plastic parts.
• Price.
  A tool of this type is sold in any hardware store or market. Very often vices are sold in the so-called "bird markets", where you can buy them for half the price. Therefore, the acquisition of such a necessary assistant will not hit your pocket hard.

After making a purchase, any master is faced with the question of how to install them? They must be installed correctly in order to carry out safe and efficient work on them.

Basic requirements for installing a vice:

1. Fastening reliability.
   The vise must be tightly and rigidly fixed. They should not move, move away, and backlashes are not allowed at all.
2. Fixing surface.
   The surface of the workbench table is smooth, even, before fixing it should be cleaned of chips and oil.
3. Place of fastening.
   The vise should be fixed in a place where it will not interfere with the main work and provide quick access to them. Most often they are installed on the corner of the table. The height of the fixation should be at the level of the bent arm pressed against the body, this will allow you to work in a comfortable position, not to bend or bend over.

When purchasing a cast-iron vice, it is important to remember that, unlike the others, they do not withstand shock loads and can break quickly. Properly installed vise will last a long time, greatly facilitate and speed up the work of the master and allow him not to get tired in the process of his work.

Safety requirements for a homemade workbench design

Any design should be first of all safe, and then functional and practical.

Drawing workbench for garage work.

Working on a workbench carries a potential hazard, so it must meet the following requirements:

1. The workbench must be securely fixed to the floor and not stagger during operation.
2. The table, upholstered with sheet steel, must be equipped with a protective mesh with a height of at least 1 meter, running along the entire length of the workbench.
3. The workplace should be designed conveniently and ergonomically: everything is at hand and nothing interferes with the work process.
4. Tabletop corners should not have sharp edges.
5. The wedges in the holes should be fastened firmly, but not so tightly that the edges are not chipped. Holes are made the same size.
6. The screws are well lubricated to ensure smooth movement of the running parts of the workbench. They are made of metal, less often wooden. At the end of the work, they should be slightly loosened and kept in an untightened position.
7. The surface of the countertop is polished, it is important to achieve smoothness, the absence of defects. The work surface must be constantly cleaned of chips and oil.
8. Keep the floor near the workbench clean, otherwise injury may occur.
9. The jaws of the vise must have soft pads to ensure secure fixation of the workpieces.
10. When using several vices, they should be spaced at least one meter apart.
11. Vibration-damping rubber pads must be used when working with power tools.
12. Do not put hot things on the workbench, pour water on them and place heaters near it.
13. When drilling, sawing and other work that can damage the surface of the countertop, place a protective board under the workpiece to be processed.
14. A properly designed workbench can withstand a load of about 200 kilograms.

Important! The master must also remember about his safety. The workplace should be well lit, the tools should be in good condition, the vise should be equipped with an unfinished notch and securely fasten the parts. Work should be in special protective glasses.

More advanced requirements for desktops are described in GOST 20400 and GOST 22046. The workbench must meet all safety requirements, and only after all conditions are met, work should be started.

Outcome

The workbench is an essential part of every garage craftsman. It serves not only for convenient work, but also for storing the necessary tools and parts. Making a workbench with your own hands is not so difficult and often it is much better than a purchased one, because it meets all the requirements of its owner, given its features.

In addition, making it yourself is much cheaper than buying a ready-made one, even in a good configuration, and the manufacturing process is not at all complicated.

Locksmith vise is a necessary equipment in the workshop of any man, without which it is difficult to do in this or that type of work.

It is not at all necessary to place them in the garage; you can arrange a vise corner at home, for example, using a table or an ordinary stool for this.

What are locksmith vise for?

When processing or sharpening any part, it is necessary to fix it firmly and securely, that is, to keep it in a certain position. The photo of the vise shows the principle of operation of this equipment.

The parameters and dimensions of the vise are determined depending on what type of tool you need to firmly hold.

The design of the carpentry vise includes:

• chassis screw;
• handle;
• movable and fixed sponge;
• base plate.

The main types of locksmith vise

Beforehand, how to make a vise with your own hands, you need to decide on the choice of work related to them.

All types of vices are divided into two types:

• non-rotary ones have a simpler design and are easiest to make yourself. The part is fixed strictly in one position.
• swivel vices are most often adapted for drilling on a machine. During operation, it is possible to rotate the workpiece without unclenching it.

The material of the vise body is most often made of durable cast iron. It is important to know that cast iron is not intended for exposure to high temperatures; steel metal is suitable for these purposes.

If the work will be carried out with small-sized parts, you should not increase financial costs and make compact small vices.

A small vise with a ball joint base is useful on the farm for processing very small parts that can be fixed individually. These are mini-vises with suction cups, mounted on a glass or well-polished surface. But they are suitable for rare frivolous works.

Please note that it is wise to introduce soft nozzles on the fastener to work with soft parts so as not to provoke damage to them. A vise with the least backlash, with the jaws fully retracted, is ideal.

A vice without a rotary mechanism will significantly save money, unless, of course, it is useful in work.

Work on the manufacture of locksmith vise at home

Carpenter's vise, self-made at home, will significantly save the family budget at times than their store-ready "brothers". And a huge plus is that the product can be made according to personal preferences and for certain individual types of work.

It is absolutely easy to find material for construction, it can be: a part of a technical pipe, a used jack, old lathes, presses, etc.

And if you go to a metal collection point, there will undoubtedly be a suitable vise part that will cost you a penny.

Classic Homemade Vise

There are many types of vise, but the most popular and traditional is the steel material type. Such a vise will be much more reliable than bought factory-made.

The design consists of:

Note!

• a steel plate of at least 3 mm., but it can be much thicker;
• channel external and internal (120 and 100 mm.);
• steel ears;
• turning cutters 2 pieces;
• a small piece of reinforcement (rod for the gate);
• nut (2 pieces), stud or screw of a certain diameter that matches the bar;
• washer (2 pieces) of the same diameter with a lead screw;
• screw pair 335 mm;
• a thick plate is needed to secure the undercarriage of the screw.

It is necessary to separate the lead screw with washers on both sides of the plate. One of the two washers must be secured with a cotter pin or a retaining ring so that the part is completely collapsible, you must first weld the thread from the screw to it.

The handle should also be collapsible on one side, and on the reverse side it should be welded with a nut. It is necessary to weld a nut with a channel from the screws flush to the plate. In order for the channel inside with the screw to move easier on the go, it is recommended to lightly process it with a file.

Sponges are welded to the so-called ears, made of turning tools. They are placed in the right place when the lead screw is screwed in, so the ears stand at an ideal distance from each other.

But you can also link them with wire for greater convenience, so in the future it will be more convenient to fix uneven parts, the shape of which is expanded to the bottom.

Such homemade vise allows you to process larger parts.

Note!

To perform work in the home workshop, it is recommended to choose the simplest fixed vice for the machine.

It is not difficult to make them yourself, you just have to watch the video and recommendations, which can be easily found on the Internet and preliminarily correctly draw up drawings.

DIY vise photo

Note!