How to install plastic windows according to GOST. What are the rules for installing plastic windows? Seam filling with polyurethane foam

Installation of PVC windows in compliance with the rules given in GOST 30971, adopted in 2012, will allow you to significantly extend their service life, avoid glass fogging and protect window openings from moisture. How to install a plastic window in accordance with GOST, and what materials to use for this, you can find out by reading our article.

For high-quality and fast work, you will need the following set of tools:

Perforator.
Electric jigsaw.
Drill screwdriver.
Nail pulling machine.
Sledgehammer.
Level.
Yardstick.
Pencil.
"Bulgarian".
Silicone gun.
Square.
Metal scissors.
Putty knife.
Slick.
Rubber hammer.
Pliers.
Brush.

Depending on the type of window opening and the model of the window, you may need additional tools that are not included in the list.

In addition to tools, to install a plastic window, you must have the following consumables:

- PSUL is a pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape. PSUL has various thicknesses and widths and is designed to hide the outer foam seam.

- Vapor barrier tapes - needed to hide the foam seam inside the room. There are metallized and fabric-based tapes. Metallized tapes are used for "dry" finishing of a window opening (plastic slopes, drywall or PVC panels). A fabric-based vapor barrier tape designed for water-based finishing materials (plaster, plaster, etc.).

- Diffusion tape- is necessary as a lining under the window cornice. This tape has the ability to let air through, but not to let water through.

- Underlay under the windowsill- is a tape on a metallized base, with a layer of insulation, serves as a heat and vapor barrier.

- Anchor plates- window fasteners connecting the frame with the window opening. Anchor plates allow you to fix the window in the opening without through holes in the frame.

- Self-tapping screws - attach the anchor plates to the window.

- Dowel screws - connect the anchor plates to the window opening.

- Priming compound- designed for surface treatment, at the place of gluing vapor barrier tapes.

- Wooden wedges- are needed for intermediate fixing of the window in the opening and setting the level.

- Base profile- is attached to the bottom of the frame and serves as a window stand and a mount for the cornice and window sill.

- Plastic window sill- comes complete with a window, but, if desired, can be replaced with window sills made of other materials.

- Drain - rarely included in the basic set of a plastic window, usually ordered separately.

Polyurethane foam - used for filling joints and as an additional fastening element.

Preparatory work

Dismantling

If it is necessary to dismantle the old window, do the following:

Remove all leaves from their hinges.
Remove the glazing beads and remove the glass from the fixed sections of the window.
Detach the trims, drain and sill from the frame.
Remove the mortar and foam between the frame and the window opening.
Using a grinder, cut off all frame fasteners.
Pull the frame out of the opening.
Remove the remaining foam and mortar at the location of the frame.

Window preparation

Before installing a plastic window in the opening, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory work:

Remove the window sashes from the hinges by knocking out the awning rods with a hammer and screwdriver.
Remove the glass units from the fixed sections of the window. To do this, you need to knock out the glazing beads from the fastening grooves; this can be done with a rubber hammer and a wide chisel, or a spatula.
Attach the stand profile to the bottom crossbar of the frame. When connecting the profile and the frame, use - PSUL as a gasket between them.
Install anchor tapes around the perimeter of the window. The straps are screwed to the frame and base profile with screws. For ease of installation, bring the ends of the anchor strips inside the room. Depending on the size of the window, from 2 to 4 fasteners are installed on each side of the frame.
Glue PSUL on the upper and side frame posts, so that the tape protects the outer seam after filling it with polyurethane foam.
Stick the diffusion tape to the base profile on the outside of the window.
To protect the inside of the seams, glue vapor barrier tape to the frame.

Window installation in the opening

After all the preparatory work, install the frame in the window opening:

Secure the frame to the opening with wedges.
Check the correct horizontal and vertical position of the frame with a spirit level.
With the frame in the correct position, through the holes in the anchor strips, mark the places for the dowel screws.
Having drilled holes with a punch, fix the frame in the window opening with anchor tapes.
Using a brush and a primer, treat the bonding points of the vapor barrier tapes and PSUL.
Fill the space between the frame and the window opening with low expansion foam.
After the foam dries, trim off the excess.
Glue PSUL and vapor barrier tape to the window opening.

Installation of drain and window sill

Spread out the diffuser tape and place the drain on it.
Attach the drain to the support profile using self-tapping screws.
Cut the window sill to fit the slopes of the window opening.
In the place where the window sill will be located, lay a metallized tape with insulation.
Insert the window sill into the support profile and fix it with screws.
Seal the gaps between the frame, drain and windowsill with silicone sealant.

Final work

Insert the double-glazed windows into the window sections, securing them with glazing beads.
Install the flaps in their places.
Check the operation of the window handles and mechanisms.

The plastic window has been installed, it remains to finish the slopes of the opening and then remove the protective film.

You can also watch detailed instructions for installing a plastic window using GOST standards in the video:

Installation of PVC windows is a simple matter if you have at least once held construction tools in your hands and are at least a little versed in materials. Installation of such windows will take a little time: half an hour or an hour for dismantling old windows and 2 hours for installing new ones.

Installation of PVC windows. Installation according to GOST

GOST for the installation of PVC windows, unfortunately, in most cases is only a recommendation, but some rules should be adhered to during the installation of windows. First of all, this applies to preliminary measurements. Determine the type of window opening - with or without a quarter. Below is a visual example of a schematic view of an opening with a quarter (A), without a quarter (B).

Scheme 1 - Window opening with a quarter and without a quarter

Measurement of windows without a quarter

The installation of windows without a quarter is carried out by installing windows in a cleaned window opening. To order a window:

subtract 5 cm from the size of the window opening vertically - the indicator of the height of the window;
subtract 3 cm from the size of the window opening horizontally - an indicator of the width of the window.

These gaps will subsequently be filled with polyurethane foam: i.e. 1.5 cm on each vertical side of the window, as well as 1.5 cm for the upper horizontal and 3.5 cm for the bottom (for mounting the window sill).

We measure the length and width of the window sill, the external ebb and add at least 5 cm to the obtained numbers - the window sill should cut into the wall from both sides of the window.

Measurement of windows with a quarter

We measure the window opening horizontally at the narrowest point. Add 3 cm to the resulting number (1.5 cm each on the sides of the window) - this is the required window width. We measure vertically the length from the bottom of the window opening to the upper quarter - this is the required vertical size of the window.

The window sill and low tide are measured in the same way as the quarter-less option.

As a result, you should have:

window height indicator;
the width of the window;
the length of the sill;
the width of the window sill;
low tide length;
the width of the low tide.

Scheme 2 - Window measurements

Installation technology

The technology for installing new windows in old houses is similar. The only amendment is that the measurements of the new window are made according to the outer dimensions of the window frame to be dismantled.

When ordering a window, please also check whether the delivery set includes:

windowsill;
stubs;
mounting profile (mounting profile);
anchor plates for fastening the window;
instructions for the installation of PVC windows (some manufacturers attach it in the kit).

When ordering a window, you should also know the answers to such questions:

What type of window profile do you want to order - 3-chamber, 4-chamber or 5-chamber?
What type of double-glazed window did you choose - 1, 2, 3-chamber?
The way to open your window is a blind window, an opening window, a tilt-and-turn window with ventilation, or a combined window (a tilt-and-turn window with ventilation and micro-ventilation).

By the way, if you want to get a quality product for a reasonable price, you should choose from mainly German and, not surprisingly, domestic manufacturers of window systems: REHAU, Veka, KBE, Schuko, Aluplast, Kemmerling, Brugmann or Trocal.

The installation technology provides for two methods: installation of PVC windows with unpacking and installation of windows without unpacking.

Scheme 3 - Construction of a metal-plastic window

The first method involves preliminary disassembly of the window: removal of glazing beads, removal of double-glazed windows from the frame, fixing the frame to the wall with dowels, and the subsequent installation of double-glazed windows and glazing beads.

The second technology for removing double-glazed windows does not require: the frame is fixed with fasteners fixed on the outer surface of the wall, and not with dowels through and through.

The installation method with unpacking can sometimes lead to fogging of the windows, and with a lack of experience, glazing beads and double-glazed windows can be damaged, and the installation process itself will take much longer. Of course, correct installation will not lead to any negative consequences. However, be extremely careful!

The unpacking method is rightfully considered more reliable, especially if the frame has been fixed with large long anchors. If we are talking about fixing a window on the floor above the 15th floor, about installing large windows (2x2 m), the right choice is to fix the frame through and through, disassembling the window.

Required tool

To install windows you will need:

screwdriver;
level;
gun (for a cylinder of polyurethane foam and sealant);
polyurethane foam (1-3 cylinders for 1 standard window);
PSUL for external waterproofing;
Primer;
puncher;
set of hexagons;
jigsaw;
stationery knife;
pencil;
paint brush;
roulette.

Installing windows. Work progress

In the process of installation work, you should be guided by the previously outlined plan: the window installation scheme (you drew it yourself or it was submitted as an example in the instructions from the manufacturer of window systems) will help to avoid mistakes and strictly follow the plan. If you doubt whether your calculations or ideas about the process of installing windows are correct, a technological map for installing windows can help - a universal set of rules and regulations for installation, guided by which you will be sure of the correctness of your actions.

We dismantle the old window and prepare the surface for the installation of the new window system.

Preparing the tool for work.

To improve the adhesion of waterproofing tapes to the surface of the opening, we treat it with a primer. Apply the primer with a paint brush.

Having removed the cellophane packaging of the windows, we glue the inner vapor barrier tape to the frame along the semi-perimeter.

Figure 1 - Semi-perimeter gluing of the window frame with vapor barrier tape

We glue the frame with an external vapor barrier - we fix the PSUL on the outer surface of the frame. When pasting, do not allow gaps between the tape joints. PSUL - a vapor-permeable tape will prevent the foam from escaping when processing gaps, protecting not only the appearance of the structure, but also the foam from environmental influences - precipitation, ultraviolet radiation and wind that destroy the foam.

We install the frame in the opening, align and fix, focusing on the installation rules:

on the frame prepared for installation, we apply the markings of the places for subsequent fastening;
we fix it on 4 sides of the frame with a step of 70 cm, while the distance from the corner of the window frame to the first fastener should be no more than 15 cm;
fasteners are fixed to the window frame (the self-tapping screw must be fixed in the metal inside the frame, therefore the correct installation technology provides for the use of self-tapping screws for metal with a diameter of 4-5 mm, for large window sizes the diameter of the self-tapping screw should be 12 mm);
use anchor plates as fasteners;
in places for the installation of fasteners, we make recesses in the window opening (fasteners are recessed by 2-4 cm for the convenience of working with slopes after completion of the window installation);
the window should be leveled (for a slight leveling of the horizontal level of the window, you can use wooden wedges, placing them under the frame at the right points);
to fix the frame in the opening, we install wedges - first the lower two, thanks to which you can set the lower and upper edges of the frame to the horizon (so that the window does not dangle, it is appropriate to fix the upper anchor), then the wedges are fixed along the vertical of the window;
we attach the window to the window opening.

On the outside of the window opening, we attach a diffuse tape under the low tide.

After adjusting the fittings (it is not recommended to buy fittings from a manufacturer other than the manufacturer of the window system, however, if necessary, pay attention to the offers from Winkhaus, Siegenia, GU, Aubi, Schuko (Germany), Maco (Austria)), you can foam the window (apply foam around the entire perimeter of the window frame, taking into account that this mounting material increases its volume up to 3 times) and 15-20 minutes after processing all the gaps, it is necessary to bend back the protective film previously applied around the perimeter of the window frame so that it completely covers the mounting gaps ( see figure).

Figure 2 - Processing of assembly seams

We fix the ebb. It is advisable to install it under the window - this way you can avoid water seepage at the connecting seam of the ebb and the window frame.

Do-it-yourself PVC window installation in winter

Many are worried about the question: "Is it possible to winter installation of PVC windows?"

Certainly possible! And the installation technology is unchanged. The only thing worth paying attention to is the temperature conditions for the materials used during installation. In particular - the indicators of the use of polyurethane foam.

Special winter options have been developed, thanks to which you can work even at -10 ° C!

When choosing polyurethane foam for winter work, focus on the products of the Macroflex Profi (Finland), Illbruck (USA) and Moment (Russia) brands.

Installation of a PVC window sill

Installation of PVC window sill completes the installation of new window blocks.

The length and width of most windowsills are standard. In any case, you need to take a window sill with a margin of length and width. The excess can be easily cut off with a grinder.

Work progress:

Bring the window sill under the window and level it using wooden wedges or any other durable material at hand.

The window sill should go into the wall by at least 1.5 cm.

Before final installation, make sure that the window sill does not sag by pressing in several places.

The slope of the window sill relative to the window should not exceed 3 °.

Blow out the cavity under the windowsill with construction foam.

The surface of the window sill must be evenly immersed for at least 12 hours so that the expanding foam does not affect the installation angle of the window sill.

A day later, the remaining foam is removed with a clerical knife, and the joint between the window and the window sill is treated with a sealant.

Scheme 4 - Installation of the window sill

All that remains is the installation of slopes on PVC windows - and you're done!

According to GOST! Installation of PVC windows: VIDEO

Installation of PVC windows: VIDEO

$ Installation of PVC windows: the price of the issue

The cost of work will depend on how much your window costs: firms that provide a full package of services often deduce window installation rates from the cost of a window - from 10% starting. Thus, when doing work with your own hands, the savings on installing windows can range from $ 40 to $ 60 (for one window).

Installation of PVC windows. Price:

Kiev - from 100-130 UAH. per m²;
Moscow - from 1,000 - 1,200 rubles. per m².

The cost of plastic windows with installation:

The cost of plastic windows with installation is on average from $ 80-90 (blind window 1m by 1.5m) and up to $ 2,200 (glazing of a 3.4m by 1.5m section with a sliding two-chamber window system). As you can see, the range of prices is amazing. Installation of windows - the price is not always included in the total amount. Therefore, when signing an order for the manufacture of a window and the corresponding contract, make sure what is included in the final price, and what you still have to spend on.

An estimate is an extremely important document: upon receiving it in your hands, ask to provide you with a full price list of works and materials - checking is never superfluous.

The cost of installation, paid separately, is different: prices vary between $ 30-70.

If the client is not able to pay the entire amount at once, some firms provide goods and services to the brigade of their masters in installments.

By the way, the window business is a profitable business: for example, winning a tender for the glazing of high-rise buildings or a residential area under construction is like hitting a jackpot in a casino. A company's profits can be in the hundreds of thousands of dollars.

With the emergence of innovative technologies, ordinary residents were able to equip their homes with greater comfort, coziness and warmth. Plastic windows play a significant role in this process. Finally, we can get rid of wooden windows that dry out in summer, dry out in winter, retain heat poorly and become sources of drafts.

A glass unit of a modern type does not have the listed disadvantages at all. It is durable, strong, safe for the human body, has a beautiful and attractive appearance. PVC windows will delight you with their functionality for a long time, but with only one condition: the installation of double-glazed windows must be in accordance with GOST and the observance of all the nuances and rules of installation technology. How to install plastic windows correctly if you have never done this before?

Trying to do the installation of double-glazed windows with your own hands is quite problematic, especially if you live in a multi-storey building. This will require the skill of a climber, which you will not have. Therefore, the easiest way out is to hire specialists. But even if workers who deserve numerous good reviews and recommendations come to you, you should check whether they are installing your window correctly. And for this you need to know the main points of the installation of plastic windows, which, for your part, you must control.

Window installation

The technology for installing a plastic window in accordance with GOST involves the step-by-step implementation of a number of measures and measures according to specified criteria, and in strict sequence each stage.

Installation of PVC windows in accordance with GOST begins with dismantling the old window: workers must completely remove it, clean the opening to the brick or concrete base of the frame. Further, the workers must prime the surface of the slopes into which the new frame will fit.

Please note that the installers use a primer when working, but not water. The primer will ensure good adhesion of the materials, which will then be used to seal the voids that have arisen.

How is the special tape attached to the PVC frame? The compressed compressed tape is attached around the perimeter frames from the outside. Its main purpose is to remove residual moisture that remains in the window opening. Such a device restrains the penetration of moisture in the opposite direction.

Then to the window frame attach the diffusion tape... As a rule, it is white in color, with a dense fabric structure on a rubber basis. It adheres well to openings in the wall, and also protects the seam from moisture.

After all tapes have been attached, the installers fix the anchor plates to the frame... They are placed around the entire perimeter with a distance of 70 cm from each other. After that, the window block can be installed in the window opening.

Now the installation of a plastic window in accordance with GOST goes to another stage, including it fastening to the window opening.

Important! The glass unit should not be placed on concrete, but on wooden blocks that have been treated with an antiseptic compound. These pads help to adjust the clearances between the frame and the concrete slope. According to existing regulations, the gap should not exceed 2 cm.

When the anchor plates are attached to the wall opening, the resulting gap must be fill with polyurethane foam.

Foam is additional thermal insulation... It should fill all gaps and crevices to prevent excess moisture from entering. In addition, it is the polyurethane foam that helps to reduce noise. After filling the cracks with foam from the inside, the seams must be close with dense diffuse tape.

Before installing the window sill, workers should use metallized tape, which takes part in the thermal insulation of the bottom seam.

Remember! Professional installers should lay the protective tape over the outside of the window, that is, from the street. And the foam from the side of the facade should not be visible at all.

Sill mount

- this is the final stage of installation of PVC windows.

A cement screed is laid on the concrete base, which will help ensure the stability of the window sill. Only on this solution will it not sag and even will be able to support the weight of a person who wants to sit on a comfortable base.

Internal slopes are applied to the initial profile, and each subsequent step is carried out using measurements of the building level, which helps trace the level of inclination of the frame... If it exceeds the norm even a little, then the window will be bad both to open and close. Therefore, the construction crew must be closely monitored.

Installation of plastic windows in accordance with GOST 30971-2002 should be carried out in this sequence. And finally, we note that before letting the workers go and signing the work acceptance act, check the work of the window, open and close the flaps and check for correct operation in all directions.

In conclusion, we suggest watching a video of how the installation of a plastic window according to GOST should look like:

If you happened to install plastic windows, and the workers who served you performed the installation strictly according to the instructions and in accordance with GOST 30971-2002, leave your feedback in the comments.

In addition to the cost of a plastic window, intermediary companies also include installation and delivery services in the final amount. In order not to spend thousands of rubles and save money, you can install a plastic window yourself. In this step-by-step master class, we will teach you how to properly dismantle the old window and prepare a new one for installation, taking into account the installation technology in accordance with GOST.

Step # 1: Dismantle the old window

In our case, we are dismantling the plastic window. The old wooden window is removed from the opening in the same way, so there should be no problems at this stage. For dismantling, we need the following set of tools: a hacksaw, a crowbar or crowbar, a chisel, a spatula, a nail puller, a hammer drill, a screwdriver (Phillips screwdriver).

First, we remove the slopes. If they are made of PVC panels, clean the seams of any sealant or glue. Take a chisel or flathead screwdriver and remove the decorative panels. If the slopes are plastered, use a chisel and hammer to remove the layer of plaster. Remove the sashes from the hinges. In plastic windows, remove the decorative top plate, press the stem with pliers. Remove only the cover plate from the lower hinge, lift the sash up.

Wooden windows are more difficult. Often the hinges are painted over with paint or completely rusted, then we knock out the stock by hand with a hammer or tear off the sash from the frame with a crowbar or crowbar.

We remove the glass unit. We take a spatula, insert it end-to-end with the glazing bead, which fixes the position of the glass unit, pry it off and remove it. We remove all 4 glazing beads that hold the glass unit. The last one is to remove the upper glazing bead. We take out the glass, remembering to put on tight gloves so as not to get hurt. To safely remove glass from the frame, you can use special suction cups.

We pass to the windowsill. Remove the old concrete window sill with a hammer and puncher. Our windowsill is plastic. Since it is in good condition, we carefully take it out and peel off the old layer of polyurethane foam. It can be easily dismantled with one light jerk upwards. Remove the ebb, unscrew the fixing screws with a screwdriver or screwdriver.

We take a hacksaw and cut the old layer of polyurethane foam with a tool around the entire perimeter of the window. We remove the fasteners. We unscrew or pull out the anchor plates or self-tapping screws for concrete with a nail puller.

After all the stages of dismantling, the frame remains in the opening. We carefully take it out, preferably with a partner. It is more convenient to remove the wooden frame in parts, first sawing the impost (frame divider), the lower part, and then remove the sidewalls and the upper crossbar.

Step # 2: Attaching the new window frame to the opening

Before starting work, we remove dust, debris, pieces of concrete on the slopes, large nails. For better adhesion of the polyurethane foam to the base, cover it with a primer over the entire width. We insert the frame into the window opening and try it on, after removing the sashes and double-glazed windows.

We put support pads under the corners and impost connections of the lower frame profile. We make sure that on both sides the frame goes over a quarter of the window opening. We use mounting wedges, not pieces of wood or old window frames. The gaps between the frame and the slopes should be about 2 cm at the sides and bottom and at least 1 cm at the top to fill the space with polyurethane foam.

We check possible horizontal and vertical deviations with a level.

If you install a reinforced-plastic window in accordance with GOST, we recommend sticking PSUL tape around the outer perimeter of the frame. It will protect assembly seams from ultraviolet radiation, moisture penetration, mold and mildew formation, and create reliable sound insulation. Along the end, from the inside of the frame (on the sides and on top), we glue a double-sided vapor barrier tape. It removes excess moisture outside and does not allow it to penetrate from the outside, and provides good ventilation. The tape to be applied must be wider than the seam for overlapping.

We drill holes in the frame and wall for the pins. We retreat from the corners of the frame in each direction by 15-18 cm and check the level deviations. It is difficult to do everything yourself. Therefore, one person works with a puncher, and the other holds the level. The distance between the fasteners on the frame should not exceed 70 cm.

On the lower part of the frame, we retreat 12-18 cm from the dividers (imposts) on each side and make holes for the pins. We do the same at the top of the frame.

We insert pins into the holes, we do not tighten them before the end. We check again the structure by level and finally fix the fasteners. We put decorative caps on the hats.

Step 3: external waterproofing and foaming of the seams

For waterproofing the external assembly seam, we lay a vapor-permeable tape under the ebb. It will protect the seam from moisture and provide adequate ventilation.

We lay the tape along the entire length of the window opening. Remove the bottom base and attach it with the adhesive side to the base. We fix the drainage. In our case, we are using an old sample with adjusted dimensions. When installing a new ebb, we measure the distance between the quarters. According to the measurements taken, we cut off the desired length of the low tide. We retreat 2 cm on each side and cut off the edge. We insert the ebb into the groove and fix it with self-tapping screws on the support profile, drilling 3-5 holes for fixing.