How to putty walls with finishing putty. How to properly putty walls

In the kitchen, interior renovation is required more often than in other rooms. Usually it is enough to re-paste the wallpaper with your own hands or paint the walls. In this article - the subtleties of the technology of finishing work in the kitchen. A video to help a beginner will tell you how to properly putty walls for wallpaper or painting.

Wall putty - is it possible to do without it?

Are the walls in the kitchen dilapidated and cracked? Are the wallpapers covered in oil stains? No wonder! The kitchen is a room where you often have to update the interior. In order to carry out repairs correctly, you must follow some rules.

Wall repair includes three stages of preparatory and repair work:

1. Preparation of wall surfaces - at this stage, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the walls of old wallpaper, glue, layers of paint and crumbling plaster.
2. Rough wall finishing - carry out a thorough alignment of the kitchen walls, patching irregularities with plaster, as well as reinforcement (if necessary).
3. Fine wall finishing is the final stage of wall finishing, which includes puttying, painting or.

When performing repair work on our own, the rough preparation of the walls is often not performed or is performed in places. Neglecting the leveling and puttying of the walls will affect the overall quality of the completed repair: the paint lays unevenly on an unprepared surface, burrs are visible on the surface, “bubbles” may form under the wallpaper.

Applying a layer of plaster on the walls reduces the number of cracks, scratches, and reliably smooths out the influx of plaster. And leveling the surface of the walls with putty helps to get an ideal surface, the fine finishing of which is absolutely no difficulty.

Wall putty technology: base preparation

The technology of applying putty on walls for painting and wallpapering has significant differences. The process of applying the working composition to the walls has its own techniques and methods. The preparation of putty also has its own characteristics.

For the preparation of putty, it is best to use ready-made dry mixes, which modern manufacturers offer in abundance. Before purchasing a dry mix, you need to carefully read the recipe for preparing the mix and the consumption rates per 1 m2.

Advice! It is very important to strictly follow the recipe for the preparation of putty in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. Properly prepared mixture will provide a more even smoothing of the layer and better adhesion to the wall surface.

It is important to remember that the putty layer applied to the wall under the wallpaper should not exceed 2 mm in thickness. Preliminary preparation of the walls should be done very carefully. It is necessary to close up small cracks and scratches, deep potholes must first be cleared and then carefully filled with plaster. Sometimes there are influxes of old plaster on the walls, such places need to be thoroughly cleaned, knocking down the protruding parts.

A special requirement for the removal of old whitewash is that the walls should be completely cleaned. Ideally, wash and then let dry.

Important! Putty applied over old lime does not have strength. Wallpapers that are heavy, especially vinyl and non-woven, will not hold onto poorly finished walls.

Primer application

After removing the old coating from the walls of the kitchen, it is required to treat the surface with a hard metal brush - such an operation will remove the maximum amount of dirt. After cleaning the walls with a brush, you can start applying the primer composition. This is only done if the wall is relatively flat. If there are significant curvature, you should first correct the curvature of the walls with plaster.

It is convenient to use a roller to apply the primer, thus it is easy to achieve uniform distribution of the primer on the wall. The primer composition can be purchased ready-made, on sale you can always find a primer in the required packaging.

Advice! It is difficult to work with a roller in the corners of the room. For a better application of the primer in the corners, use a narrow brush with a long, stiff bristle.

After applying the primer, dry the walls thoroughly. Do not apply putty on wet surfaces. When applying putty on plasterboard walls that have a smooth and even surface, it is enough to apply one layer of putty, which will be the finish. Old, plastered surfaces are smoothed with plaster until absolute smoothness is achieved.

With the methods of work on puttying the surface under the wallpaper can be found in the video for this article.

How to properly putty walls for painting

Special actions for applying putty for the subsequent painting of the walls should be considered multi-layer (one layer cannot be dispensed with). Sometimes, on particularly problematic walls, it may be necessary to glue a layer of masking mesh, which is alternately covered with several layers of plaster mixture, followed by sanding. and then putty is applied.

Attention! It is important to purchase only high-quality tools for work. The spatula must have an absolutely smooth blade without nicks and scratches.

Manufacturers produce a variety of mixtures for puttying walls. The consumption of raw materials in terms of 1 m2 can vary significantly:

• Oil-adhesive putty - consumption 3.0 kg / m2.
• Adhesive compositions - consumption 0.47 kg / m2.
• Gypsum plaster - consumption 0.85 kg / m2.
• Finishing putty - the consumption of the composition is 0.44 kg / m2.

Here are the average consumption rates of materials, subject to the ideal condition of the walls.

From the possible types of putty, choose the one that suits you

As with preparing walls for wallpapering, walls for painting before applying plaster must be carefully prepared: remove old paint or wallpaper, beat off the influx of the plaster composition, and clean deep cracks.

Important! All wooden plugs, nails, screws and other fasteners should be removed from the walls. Holes in the wall must be sealed with cement mortar. The same composition is used to fill the old lines for wiring, deep cracks and potholes.

Cleaning the walls is continued with a metal brush, after which you can start applying the primer. Applying putty is allowed no earlier than 24 hours after the primer layer has dried.

It is convenient to start applying the composition from the right corner of the wall. It is worth monitoring the thickness of the applied layer - it should not exceed 2 mm.

Do not be upset if the first layer of putty turned out to be imperfect, re-applying the composition will correct the situation. It is important not to start applying the second layer of putty until the first layer has set. This will take about 12 hours.

Perfectly even corners are made using a special tool - an angled spatula. It should be ensured that the thickness of the applied layer in the corners does not exceed 5 mm.

Puttying walls for painting: video

Wall puttying: photo

After leveling large defects, wall blockages and significant irregularities, they proceed to the final stage - leveling and strengthening the walls. With the help of putty, small scratches, transitions of plaster layers, chips and cracks, and all minor flaws in the rough finish are repaired. The puttied surface becomes completely suitable for wallpapering or painting.

Why putty walls after plaster

Special polymer and stabilizing additives are introduced into the composition of putty mixtures based on gypsum or cement-sand compositions, making the solution more plastic and slowing down its setting. Thanks to this, the putty is applied in a very thin layer, creating a perfectly even and smooth surface.

After the plaster has dried, it is not necessary to putty the walls just before laying tiles or sticking thick wallpapers. Small defects under them will simply not be visible, so the surface is only primed. In other cases, especially when painting or finishing with thin wallpaper, plaster is indispensable. After all, it is able not only to even out the smallest cracks, but also:

• prevent peeling of plaster over time;
• significantly improve the adhesion (adhesion) of walls with wallpaper and other finishing materials, they will hold on more firmly and will not peel off;
• reduce the consumption of wallpaper glue and paint.

After what time can putty be applied

Cement-sand leveling mixtures fully gain strength for quite a long time - 4 weeks. But it is not necessary to withstand such a time after plastering. Cement gains 70% of its strength in a week. This is quite enough for applying putty and subsequent finishing, including heavy tiles. For example, Knauf Unterputz cement facade plaster 20 mm thick dries within 7-10 days.

Gypsum compositions set in 40-60 minutes, and dry completely in about a week.. For example, the popular Knauf Rotband, applied to the walls with a layer of 15-20 mm, can be puttied after 7 days. In a humid room or low temperatures, the drying time may increase up to 10-14 days.

Drying time also depends on the thickness of the layer, as well as the temperature and humidity in the room. The use of building hair dryers or the creation of drafts to speed up the process is not desirable - significant cracks may form on the surface during uneven drying, and over time the plaster will begin to peel off.

After drying, before puttying, the plaster must be sanded - using a special grater with a fine mesh or sandpaper, the wall is treated in a circular motion. In this way, small influxes of the dried mixture, traces of a spatula, and places where layers are applied are removed.

Do walls need to be primed?

Many people think that pre-priming walls is just a waste of money. However, if you want the future decorative coating to look perfect and last as long as possible, then the walls must be primed before puttying.

Primer that penetrates deeply into the pores:

• protects the surface from peeling;
• contributes to a more uniform penetration of putty, adhesives and dyes.

Priming solutions are also an excellent antiseptic that protects walls from fungus. In addition, they do not allow moisture, which contributes to its development, to penetrate too deep into the walls.

The choice of primers is quite large in the construction market, and manufacturers offer special types for each type of surface. To cover the walls after plastering, it is better to use acrylic, polystyrene or perchlorovinyl mixtures of deep penetration or universal compositions of medium porosity.

The walls must first be treated with a wet sponge to remove the smallest dust particles. You can primer both with a roller and with a brush - the roller distributes the mixture more evenly, and it is more convenient to apply it with a brush in hard-to-reach places. Also, for convenience and speed, manual sprayers are used.

Puttying is started only after the primer has dried. The time for its complete fixing is always indicated on the package and can vary from 5 to 15 hours.

What is better to putty?

The main requirements for compositions for interior decoration:

• high plasticity;
• ease of application;
• ideal smoothness of the created surface;
• affordable price.

Gypsum-based compositions - ideal for puttying inside the house. A feature of gypsum materials is their quick setting (40-60 minutes), ease of application and subsequent grouting.

Wall priming, plastering, puttying are basic operations in the process of bringing surfaces to the stage of readiness for further painting or wallpapering. A simplified scheme of work is as follows: plastering, priming after plastering, puttying, grinding, coating with paintwork material or applying wallpaper. Puttying the walls after plastering is considered a finishing preparatory operation.

Even due to the fact that today plastering is provided with a wide choice of materials for interior and exterior decoration, and having done the work, you can achieve an ideal plane (there is no question whether it is possible to putty the walls, for example, after finishing with gypsum plaster - the procedure is not necessarily included in the order repair work) - the financial costs of such plastering work are extremely high.

The classification of putty materials was carried out according to several criteria. The sequence of grouping is determined by key factors and properties of putty, combining mixtures into the following classes:

• Oil-glue. If you need the cheapest mixture - the group is suitable. It is not known whether oil solutions will continue to have a future, because they are already considered the last century. The main disadvantage is the manifestation of yellow spots through the paint layer and wallpaper.

• Gypsum cement. Materials are much more expensive. Are intended for a full complex of finishing operations of the general orientation. In domestic products, most often, they contain more cement than gypsum. According to the cement and gypsum base, the main purpose of the powder was determined for the masters - having covered a layer of plaster with soil, you most likely putty the walls with the composition for further wallpapering.

• Water-dispersion. Also from the category of gypsum cement, however, they are necessarily produced in a batch with an aqueous polymer emulsion, respectively, the container is a bucket. The advantage is that you do not need to study on the packaging what to do and in what proportion to dilute the putty - the products are already ready for use.

• Acrylic. After puttying with a similar composition, all the advantages of the above groups (except for oil) will appear.

Workflow steps

Surface cleaning

When puttying the walls after the old plaster is done, the obsolete wallpaper and layers of paint must be removed. A special wash helps to eliminate the remnants of unnecessary material. After the manipulations, the walls should dry out - they are left for about a day.

Drying is followed by a thorough visual check: missed small parts are cleaned with a mounting knife or a thin spatula.

Relief inspection

The relief plane is examined with a flashlight, wielding the building rule: it is applied to the surface, the flashlight shines along the wall. The smallest depressions and protrusions are obvious. Rough bumps should be beaten off on the spot with a planer or a sharp spatula, and the notches should be marked along the contour with a simple pencil.

Instrument preparation

Before starting the repair process, the entire set of tools is scrupulously wiped with a rag from dust, washed with dishwashing detergent and dried with a thick cloth that does not leave fibers on the wiped objects. It is worth carefully making sure that there are no residues of solutions from previous batches on the mixer from a drill and a mixing container - lumps of old solutions need to be picked out.

Preparation of putty mixture

The process of preparing the solution is not complicated:

1. Running water is drawn into the container (the construction bucket is filled by a quarter, the usual one by a third).
2. Gradually fall asleep dry powder until the tip of the "iceberg" is above the water.
3. Wait up to 30 seconds until the powder absorbs water and sags: no dry formations should remain.
4. With a quick, measured movement, using a nozzle on a drill, kneading is carried out for 2 minutes. (a drill is preferred, but hand-drilling is also acceptable).
5. Expect 30-60 sec.
6. Re-mixing is done. The consistency is brought to the ideal - the solution is ready.

Under no circumstances should the finished solution be diluted with additional water or dry powder. We'll have to work with what we've got. In case of shortcomings, the putty composition will tolerate excess liquid, after solidification, it is always possible to walk around the area with an abrasive and do homework where necessary.

Do not forget about the shelf life of the finished solution after kneading: it is better to knead in several portions. Each portion is placed on a wide spatula with a smaller one, calculating the amount that will be needed for one stroke.

Relief leveling

Small recesses and cracks are covered with a medium or wide spatula, based on the size of the defect. Grouting is carried out with wide movements crosswise with the same effort to a flat surface without sags and burrs.

A common mistake among inexperienced craftsmen is to slowly, pressing, stretch the spatula. Putty of any brand is endowed with a thixotropic characteristic, which leads to a quick correct dispersal with periodic identical force exposure from several sides.

On the video: the process of puttying the wall with your own hands.

Hardening of the putty layer

When hardening putty, it is necessary to use all precautions, as for hardening plaster: through air currents, direct sunlight, heat waves from a fan heater or hair dryer are absolutely contraindicated. Cracks in the wall as a result of drying are already unpleasant, but the putty layer damaged by improper drying can warp, which will only appear at the stage of wallpapering or painting.

Indoor air circulation should be adjusted, without drafts and temperature fluctuations. More specifically, you can open the room door, but leave the balcony door closed. For the corridor - to allow air to circulate from the living rooms, tightly shutting the doors to the street, kitchen and bathroom.

The instructions for use most often indicate the drying time of the coating up to 16 hours, in fact - 10-12 hours. However, it is advisable to grind the layer not earlier than a day has passed: the putty will dry out reliably, harden, and subsequent operations will be easier.

Puttying under the wallpaper

For the purpose of further wallpapering, the putty is initially carried out with a wide spatula, overlapping with each next layer up to ¼ of the previous one. The resulting "sausages" do not grind. Holding the spatula at an angle of 21-30 o, constant pressure should be observed, which will help to distribute the material in an even layer of 2 to 4 mm. The smaller the angle of inclination, the more it leads to the formation of a thick layer, the more - to a thin one. However, the dependence is typical for variations in the specified degree interval; when it goes beyond its limits, bumps and discontinuities form on the surface.

The next step is to dry the layer, remove the sags with a jointer with an abrasive and check the smoothness with the help of a building rule and a lantern. The resulting defects are eliminated: protrusions - with an abrasive, recesses - with additional lubrication. It is possible that an inexperienced master can approach the wall up to 5 times until the surface becomes perfect.

At the end of the manipulations and a long solidification, a jointer with a mesh of size range 80-120 is passed along the wall (with an increase in the number, the abrasive grain decreases). Initially, the entire surface is worked out in circular strokes, after which, loosening the grip, with crosswise movements in order to remove the contours of circular manipulations.

Then the wall is again aligned with the building rule with a lantern. If there are no lingering reflections from under the rule, the surface is ready, after a day the walls are primed and you can start gluing.

Puttying followed by painting

The technological process is different from puttying followed by wallpapering in one operation: after the final leveling and rubbing with abrasive material, the wall is covered with finishing plaster. Particular attention is paid to the wall, if it will be painted with enamel, in particular acrylic, then the finishing mixture must be white, durable and specially designed for this purpose.

Grouting occurs with an abrasive with a fine grain of at least 150.

For mirror painting, the wall is polished with everything else with a grinding trowel with suede material (felt and felt pieces are not suitable). A used suede cover will not cope with the task - it will have to be replaced with a new one. Also, for painting, the wall must be primed in accordance with the instructions indicated on the packaging of the material.

The nuances of puttying corners and slopes

Inexperienced craftsmen are often advised to apply more than the required norm to the corners of the material, followed by rubbing with an abrasive product. But when, before puttying, it is planned to ask to skim any area with a gun, physical costs can be reduced, while at the same time increasing the efficiency of the result.

Work plan:

1. When the silicone is used up, the tube must be unwound, the remnants removed and wiped with a rag soaked in vinegar solution.
2. During puttying, the corner is bypassed, leaving it empty.
3. The wall has dried up - the tube must be filled with putty and slowly squeezed out into the slot of the corner. It is recommended, if possible, to do the procedure from the bottom up in one approach.
4. Then they work out with an angular spatula, leaning on the surface, similarly to plastering on beacons.
5. After drying, the protrusions will need to be removed with an abrasive mesh.

Instead of a silicone tube, you can use a syringe used when baking cakes. With rubber or foam pads and tape fixation, the confectionery syringe is fixed in the gun like a glove.

At the corners of the slopes, the master works with an angled trowel to choose from any of the methods known to him, knocks down the protrusions with an abrasive mesh, and checks the smoothness with the building rule. There is no significant difference in the process of laying the putty layer on the walls and in the corners, but the corners are difficult to bring to the ideal - a professional will need to step up to two times.

Puttying tips (2 videos)

What you may need (25 photos)

We continue our series of articles about puttying walls with our own hands. Today we’ll talk about puttying ordinary walls - brick or panel (but not drywall), although the process schemes are similar.

Classification and types of putties

Putties are classified into gypsum, cement and polymer.

Disadvantages and advantages of each type.

1. Gypsum based: they are low cost, they are perfectly aligned and do not shrink. As a disadvantage, low resistance to moisture can be noted here, which limits the scope of their application. Gypsum wall putties should be used in dry rooms, and their use in rooms with high humidity or with a large temperature difference is unacceptable. The cost of one bag (20 kg) averages from 250 rubles.
2. Cement: have a high degree of resistance to moisture, but their degree of shrinkage is just as high. This requires re-sanding. You can use such mixtures in rooms with high humidity, such as a kitchen or bathroom.(read the article about wall putty for wallpaper). Cement wall putties only become stronger when dried, but eventually lose their elasticity, which can lead to the appearance of microcracks. The price for this type of putty starts from about 200 rubles / bag (25 kg).
3. Polymer: have a lot of advantages: they perfectly resist moisture, do not shrink, and allow achieving high quality of the treated surfaces. The disadvantage here can only be considered a high cost - starting from 290 rubles / bag (20 kg).
4. Leveling: are intended for alignment of walls after putting plaster. They have a high grain size, good strength and an excellent degree of adhesion to the surface. The recommended layer thickness is from 3 to 20 mm. Price: from 230 rubles / bag (20 kg).
5. To obtain a perfectly smooth surface and eliminate small flaws after leveling the walls, use finishing mixes. In terms of strength, they are inferior to leveling putties. Applying them is not difficult. Recommended layer up to 4mm. The cost is from 280 rubles / bag (20 kg).
6. Universal Mixes combine the properties of finishing and leveling wall putty, but at the same time costing more - from 320 rubles / bag (20 kg). They are used on surfaces with minor flaws, because. the quality is somewhat inferior to both types.

In addition to the composition putties are divided into leveling, finishing (for example, for the last stage of putty) and universal.

Putties are available in dry form, as well as in the form of ready-made consistency. Dry putties are stored much longer and cost an order of magnitude cheaper than ready-made mixtures.

They are produced in special bags. Their preparation is not laborious: the powder is simply diluted with water using a special mixer in accordance with the instructions on the package. Of course, the use of the finished composition is much more convenient. However, if the applied layer is less than 2 mm, then such mixtures cannot be used. They also give a lot of shrinkage. Ready putty compositions are produced in special plastic buckets.

What putty to choose to putty the walls?

When asked what putty to choose for walls for wallpaper, we can say that when choosing putty, you should take into account the working conditions, the quality of the surface to be treated and the desired result. To purchase quality material, you should make purchases in branded hardware stores.

You should not go to all kinds of markets for the sake of economy. It is there that the risk of acquiring counterfeit products is high. A simple tip when choosing putty: you should pay attention to the date of packaging. It is applied to the nearest second. If you notice that the entire batch is packed in an instant, then most likely it is better to refuse such a purchase.

In general, putty has a shelf life of 6 to 12 months in dry rooms at room temperature. After the expiration date, the putty loses its properties - it stops setting quickly. When buying, you should pay attention not only to the date of manufacture, but also to the integrity of the packaging. Bags with dry mix must not be damaged, and buckets with ready-made mortar must be tightly closed.

Scheme of work with a grinding bar

Video instruction

Instructions: how to putty the walls yourself

To putty the walls with your own hands, you will need the following set of tools:

1. A drill with a "mixer" nozzle and a container for diluting the composition (required when using a dry mix).
2. Set of spatulas: small, large, angled. When working, you have to deal with different parts of the surfaces - each of them has its own spatula. Spatulas come in 20mm, 40, 60, 80, 100, 200, 300, 400, 600, 800mm. Narrow up to 80mm are used for hard-to-reach places. Spatulas with a width of 80 and 100 mm are called type-setting - with their help, the mixture is taken out of the bucket and applied to the working spatula. Spatulas with a width of 200 and 300 mm are used to level irregularities that are small in width and length. Wider spatulas are used for leveling heavily curved surfaces.
3. Rollers or brushes. They are necessary for priming walls for putty. The primer should not be skipped, as this improves the adhesion of the mixture to the surface and improves the quality of the work.
4. The rule is to be needed in places where putty is applied in a thick layer. A long metal rule is useful when leveling thick layers of putty from walls. Rules come in different lengths - 1m, 1.5m, 2m, 3m. The optimal rule is considered to be 2m long. However, it is better to choose a convenient size of the rule individually.
5. Level for establishing test beacons (as for) before applying the starting putty to the walls. Levels come in lengths from 20cm to 2.5m. For domestic purposes, it is not necessary to buy the largest, a level from 0.5 m to 1 m is quite enough.
6. Sandpaper - for a perfectly smooth surface. It is better to purchase skins with grains from 60 to 100. Skin 60 is suitable for the base stage (less than 60 is not worth taking, because it will be too rough), and fine 100 for grouting the finishing layer (skin above 100 will be heavily clogged with dust). It is more convenient to grout the walls after puttying using a manual skinner.

Wall surface preparation

Falling layers of plaster should be removed

Before applying wall putty for wallpaper, prepare the surface to be treated. It must be absolutely clean without stains of grease, soot, paint, etc. Falling layers of plaster should be removed. It is strongly not recommended to start work if the walls or ceiling are frozen.

Before puttying the walls, it is necessary to apply a primer to improve adhesion. One layer of primer is sufficient.

Starting putty of the wall surface

The plaster is made using special beacons, which help to apply the mortar more evenly.

Starting putty is performed using coarse material (starting putty). It is convenient to use such material with large wall differences to hide irregularities, remove strobes and holes. The thickness of such a layer applied at a time can be up to 1.5 cm. To apply subsequent layers, it is necessary to wait for the previous one to dry.

If the differences in the level of the walls are more than 5 cm, then in this case, before applying the putty, the walls are plastered. The plaster is made using special beacons, which help to apply the mortar more evenly. Before applying the plaster, the walls are primed with a special solution, and before each layer of plastering, they are additionally sprayed with water. The plaster is applied with a special spatula with a sharp wave of the hand. For better adhesion with the subsequent layer, the first layer should be slightly roughened. As a rule, all movements are performed from the bottom up. After applying the plaster, it is leveled by the rule.

Often, to obtain a high result, a special painting grid is used.

Often, to obtain a high result, a special painting grid is used. It is mounted on the wall (read a good article about), and putty is already applied on top (or plaster if necessary). In this case, the putty fits better, and the surface becomes much stronger and smoother. The paint mesh is attached to the first layer of putty, without waiting for it to dry. The prepared piece of mesh is pressed into the still wet putty layer. After drying, a second layer of putty is applied. Thus, the grid remains in the middle of the leveling putty layer. The tensile strength of such a layer increases several times, which avoids the appearance of cracks.

Finishing putty is applied in a very thin layer, while eliminating only the smallest pores and cracks.

How to putty: finishing stage

After completion of the starting stage, it is necessary to apply finishing putty to the wall. Its main goal is to make the surface perfectly smooth and beautiful. If the starting putty was performed poorly, then with the help of the finishing mixture it will not be possible to correct the situation. Finishing putty is applied in a very thin layer, while eliminating only the smallest pores and cracks. Therefore, before finishing, you should achieve a perfectly flat surface.

For smooth corners, use an angled trowel.

1. When using a dry mix, it is necessary to correctly prepare the solution. It should be uniform and slightly stick to the spatula.
2. With a large spatula at an angle of 30̊, apply the starting putty in small portions. Putty should be applied diagonally, making each next stroke overlap to avoid transitions and bumps.
3. For smooth corners, use an angled trowel. To begin with, with a small spatula, apply the mixture over the entire height of the corner. Then, using an angled spatula, level the surface of the corner.
4. After the starting layer has completely dried, a finishing putty is applied using a small and large spatula. With a small spatula, the mixture is applied in small portions to a large one and evenly applied to the surface. The layer thickness is about 1.5-2mm.
5. After the putty has completely dried (it takes about 12 hours), you can start finishing sanding with a fine sandpaper.

In order to putty the walls with your own hands, it is important to perform all stages of work with high quality and responsibly. In this case, you can get excellent results and save a lot on work.

Good luck with your repair!

Everyone who at least once faced with the issues of repair work is familiar with the puttying process. In this way, walls, wooden parts, and many other surfaces are finished. No fine finish is possible without preliminary puttying of the surface. It is putty that will help make the wall perfect - without roughness, cracks, bumps and other flaws. There are many varieties of this material - in addition to different purposes, there are also different types of putties, according to their appearance and the result obtained. Which one to choose and how to use - let's figure it out together.

Why do you need to putty walls?

Sometimes it happens that, having removed the old wallpaper, it turns out that the walls are not so uneven. Often there is such a gift from builders as a slab on which there are no dents or cracks and it seems that there is simply no need to putty it. Actually this is a delusion! There are two types of puttying work, directly as preparatory work:

In this case, the preparation of the walls is exactly what is needed to align them if they are crooked, especially for corners, arches and similar joints. For such processing, not the most expensive putties are usually used, since there is no need to obtain an ideal appearance - the finished wall will still be covered with wallpaper from above. After the putty is applied and completely dry, such surfaces are usually cleaned with sandpaper to obtain a smooth white surface. Its roughness will even be an additional adhesion of the wallpaper to the wall.

This is a more painstaking and clean type of putty work. Firstly, such a surface must be truly perfect, without scratches, cracks and similar defects. Secondly, even microscopic cracks should be absent, since it is precisely because of them that the destruction of the paint layer may occur in the future. This will completely spoil the quality of the coating and its appearance.

To perform high-quality putty for painting, the multi-layer coating technology will be correct. In this case, various types of putties are used, which are applied sequentially one after another, as well as additional reinforcing agents - reinforcement with fiberglass, non-woven fabric and similar materials specially designed for this.

It is advisable to use the same type of putty for surfaces that are in plain sight - window slopes, ceilings, and so on.

What are putties?

Even with a huge abundance of various putties on store shelves, in fact, there are not many types of this material. According to their purpose, they are divided into two groups:

• Starting

As the name implies, it is necessary for the initial alignment of the walls, subject to their unevenness. They are made from chalk, a gypsum component and a filler of a fairly large fraction - usually crushed perlite or pumice.

Starting putties are used for rough leveling of surfaces of walls, ceilings or slopes and can be applied in a thick layer. Due to its composition, this material hardens quickly, which allows you to treat the surface layer by layer, without waiting for a long drying of the previous layer.

These putties are sold dry, packaged in bags - for use they must be diluted in the right amount of clean water. Usually, breeding recommendations are indicated on the packaging and may differ from manufacturer to manufacturer, therefore, you need to approach this process responsibly.

Ready-to-use putties are sold in buckets of various sizes, but still, even the largest of them are not sufficient for finishing large areas. It is advantageous to take such a putty "for testing" - in order to understand whether this type of material of this particular manufacturer is suitable for you, you can buy putty in a bucket, and then, for a complete repair of the entire area, purchase the same dry form.

Starting putties can also, if necessary, be reinforced with mesh or fiber. Such strengthening is especially important in the presence of strong defects near the walls, a weak foundation, or in new buildings, when the shrinkage of the building has not yet been completed.

• Finishing

Designed for surface finishing. Such a putty works on an already dried starting putty. It is always applied in a thin layer - the maximum it can be up to three millimeters. The dried finishing putty forms a dense hard layer without cracks and chips.

Finishing putties are commercially available in two forms: dry and ready-to-use. Dry mix - diluted in water, similarly to the starter, in accordance with the instructions on the package. It is important to thoroughly stir the powder to the desired consistency, so that no lumps remain. For high-quality mixing, it is most convenient to use a special construction mixer, which is driven by a conventional perforator. Ready putty from dry powder cannot be stored for a long time, as it quickly hardens upon contact with open air.

Finishing putties, ready to use, are sold in buckets of various sizes. This is very convenient, in terms of the fact that, if necessary, you can purchase a small amount of the product. Also, ready-made putty is convenient in that it can be used immediately after opening the package, however, it is still desirable to mix it - this may be necessary, since during storage it can delaminate and become heterogeneous.

Types of putties

In addition to separating the material according to its intended purpose - starting and finishing, putties also amaze with their diversity in varieties. Here the type of putty is determined by the feedstock from which it is made. In fact, modern manufacturers have in their arsenal a wide range of initial components for putties. What exactly are they and what is their difference? The main three types of putties used in the construction market can be described as follows:

As the name implies, it is made on the basis of gypsum. This product is distinguished, firstly, by its dazzling whiteness, and secondly, by its plasticity. Also important is the property of gypsum to absorb and release moisture when interacting with the surrounding air. Walls treated with gypsum putty can create a favorable microclimate in the room, thanks to the proper circulation of moisture.

Naturally, this type of putty is only suitable for interior work, since gypsum does not perform well in outdoor work. Ideally, it is suitable for work on - since these materials have a common structure.

It is easier to putty a plasterboard wall than usual, since it does not need to be leveled - just seal the seams and the places where the sheets are attached. Gypsum putty is produced both starting and finishing.

It is also clear that its main ingredient is cement. Accordingly, the properties of cement perfectly coexist in it: moisture resistance, immunity to temperature extremes from frost to summer heat. This putty is convenient to use both indoors and outdoors - as it is resistant to atmospheric phenomena.

For interior decoration, it can be used in conditions of high humidity and steam generation, for example, kitchen, bathroom, swimming pools and the like. The disadvantage of cement-based putty is its rough structure - this is also caused by its main component - cement. It is quite difficult to process and grind after drying. Typically, such putty is used for finishing with tiles, and similar materials that can hide a layer of plaster.

The most modern material is made from chemical raw materials, using modern equipment. It has a dense structure and a plastic consistency - suitable for leveling walls and for finishing. Acrylic putty is easy to apply, easy to sand, not prone to cracking. It is a kind of universal, because, firstly, it is suitable for treating surfaces made of various materials, and secondly, because it can be used as a starting putty and as a finishing putty, depending on the needs.

But, because of its not small cost, it is hardly advisable to apply it in a thick layer. Usually, finishing specialists prefer to apply acrylic putty in a thin layer, no more than one millimeter, thus performing the finishing touch-up of the surface.

With careful and thorough application, acrylic can look perfectly even, beautiful, even glossy. An important advantage of acrylic putty is its environmental safety.

In addition to these widely popular types, polymer putties are also on sale - they are produced on the basis of acrylates or vinyl compounds. Such products are more expensive and are universal.

Polymer mixtures are gaining popularity - at present they are used, perhaps even more often than gypsum and cement-containing ones. They are easy to use and durable in use. By type, polymer putties are divided into three main groups: acrylic, polymer cement and latex - according to the main ingredient in each of them.

1. Acrylic polymer putty- characterized by the presence of acrylic in the composition. It can be starting, finishing or universal - depending on the need and purpose of use.
2. Polymer cement putty- mainly used for leveling cement-concrete, lime and brick substrates. The main component here is cement, to which special polymer additives go. Such a putty has a plastic consistency and can be used both as a starter, for leveling, and as a finish, for final processing.
3. Latex putty- made on the basis of styrene - this is a certain type of acrylic-based latex. This type of polymer putty is ideal as a finish and is well suited for finishing various surfaces: drywall, brick, wood, concrete and others.

Polymer putties are very convenient for their special appearance - they are plastic and elastic, which makes them ideal for work. Even amateurs can create a perfectly even layer using polymer materials.

They are also convenient in that they can be applied with the thinnest layer, which is impossible for gypsum or cement putty. However, the minimum thickness does not make the putty layer less durable than those that are applied thicker. It is also important to note the strength characteristics: polymer putty is not subject to shrinkage and cracking. In addition, they are vapor-permeable, that is, they allow the walls to breathe, and are resistant to moisture and have thermal insulation properties.

Polymer putties are sold, just like other analogues, in dry or ready-to-use form. Dry mixes, as a rule, make sense to choose when it comes to finishing large volumes, and ready-made plastic mixes will help out great if you need to finish a small area.

This type of putty is presented on store shelves in three types: starting, finishing and universal. Choosing the right putty is not difficult. Material consumption is indicated on the labels - just calculate the required area for finishing.

The only drawback of polymer putties is their high cost. Unfortunately, due to the content of polymers, which simply cannot be cheap due to their cost. Of course, many of the positive characteristics of these materials fully justify their price, so when choosing a material for wall decoration, you should pay attention to polymer putties.

Types of putty application

Having decided on the type of material, it is necessary to choose the method of its application. Putty is usually applied by three traditional methods:

During mechanical application, special installations are used, with the help of which the finished mass is sprayed onto the surface of the walls. Such application is convenient, fast and high quality. But, of course, the purchase of special equipment for domestic needs is not advisable. And, as a rule, putty is applied in this way by specialists in the field of finishing work, during industrial-scale work, large volumes, and so on.

The semi-mechanical method also requires a compressor or pressure tank - in this way the putty is “splashed” onto the walls, which is also much faster than applying it manually, although slower than in the first case.

Manual putty application

Well, the most common way is to apply by hand. Since it is he who is used most often, both by professional builders and those who decide to make repairs on their own for the first time, we will consider it in more detail. For application, a ready-made putty mass is used - prepared independently from a dry powder or already purchased in a ready-to-use form.

• using a flat paint trowel and a small spatula

A small amount of putty is collected on the working surface of a flat spatula and a small trowel is applied and distributed over the wall. This method is simple and convenient even for those who have never done such work.

• putty "bloopers"

This name speaks for itself: putty is applied to the wall with a small spatula in the form of “blunders” - large spots, and then, using a long trowel, the mass is evenly distributed over the entire surface. This method allows you to complete the finish quickly, but physically harder than the previous one, since muscles will be needed to level the material with a trowel, from fifty centimeters long.

• using two spatulas: main and auxiliary

The main spatula should be about two to two and a half times longer than the auxiliary spatula. For example, spatulas with a length of 45X20 cm or 35X10 cm are well combined. The longer the main spatula, the more effort is needed to work with it.

In the process of application, with an auxiliary spatula, the putty is distributed over the main one and is already transferred to the wall with it. It is important that when distributing the mass, the pressure on the spatula is the same over the entire surface to be treated - then the material will be distributed evenly. The basic principle of applying putty: from dry to wet. That is, it is necessary to work in such a way that each subsequent finished section is connected to the previous one and they can be immediately compared with each other - then the work will be done neatly, without bumps and sagging.

Applying putty is not a difficult process, however, it requires accuracy and some skill. Starting for the first time, you can practice in places that are not too noticeable, fill your hand. When muscle memory remembers the movements of the hands, the work will go faster and better. Manual puttying is available to anyone, there are no particularly critical nuances in it.

Do-it-yourself wall putty

Many owners tend to carry out repair work on their own: this is not always caused by the desire to save on the wages of specialists. Many people like to make repairs themselves, taking into account their every wish, or simply because they like this activity. As for the puttying process, there is nothing complicated in it, you just need to purchase a high-quality putty mixture and follow the correct work technology - these two facts will allow you to get a smooth, beautiful wall, ready for further finishing.

Training

Before proceeding with the puttying itself, the walls must be properly prepared.

1) Remove the remains of old building materials as much as possible. Traces of varnish, paint, wallpaper - can significantly affect the quality of the finished coating, in the worst case, the remainder of the old varnish can simply fall off after the putty is completed, violating the integrity of the finished layer.

2) Carefully examine the surface for cracks, chips, irregularities. If there are any, then they must first be repaired, flush with the wall, making sure during operation that no bulges appear. After sealing the cracks, it is necessary to wait for the time required for the material to dry completely and only then proceed to the next step.

3) Thorough cleaning of the walls and the room as a whole. There should be no dust, dirt, greasy stains - all of them must be removed, cleaned, degreased. It is advisable to vacuum the walls to remove small particles of dirt and dust as much as possible.

4) Priming surfaces. The primer must be selected based on the material from which the walls are made, and also, depending on their condition, applied in one or several layers. A primer with antifungal additives is preferred - to prevent the occurrence of mold or similar troubles. The primer should be applied with a brush - a brush or a special roller that can transfer liquid well to the wall.

This stage is important, as well-primed walls have a stronger adhesion to the putty mixture and are protected from damage by fungus. Therefore, you need to try to apply the primer as carefully as possible, without missing a single millimeter. After application, leave the primer alone until completely dry, which is at least six to eight hours, at room temperature in the room. But it is best to leave the walls to dry for a day.

Preparation of putty mixture

If you plan to putty a room, or even more than one, then ready-made putty in buckets will probably not work for you - this, although convenient, is obviously not cheap. Just for processing large areas, a dry putty mixture packaged in bags is perfect, from which you can independently prepare a ready-to-use material. This is not difficult to do, but it is important to follow the correct cooking technique:

1) In a clean, preferably plastic, container, pour one third of clean water. Water must be taken cool or even cold, as hot water accelerates the hardening of the finished putty.

2) Dry putty mixture is poured into the water. Quantitatively it is difficult to say exactly, it all depends on the manufacturer and needs. Manufacturers' recommendations and experience will help to resolve this issue.

Firstly, the proportion of water and dry component is always indicated on the packages, which will allow you to get a ready-to-use mass. Secondly, after trying the finished putty prepared according to the instructions, you may need a thicker, or, conversely, a more liquid consistency. Of course, in the process of mixing the mass, a dry product can be added, therefore, initially try not to exceed the amount indicated on the package.

3) For the next step, you will need a construction mixer. Having installed it on the perforator, it is necessary to make the initial mixing of the mixture. Its purpose is to completely moisten the dry powder with water. You need to interfere at low speeds of the tool, in slow circular motions, trying not to scatter the putty around the container.

After the initial mixing, you need to leave the mixture for five to ten minutes, this is necessary so that the water completely soaks the dry putty, and especially the lumps that it contains.

4) Mix again using the same building mixer. This time more intensive mixing is possible. After that, leave the mixture alone again to swell. Thus, it is necessary to make three to four approaches, alternating the processes of mixing and settling the finished mixture. You need to mix for about three minutes, defend - about five. Thus, gradually, the consistency will reach the desired one - medium density and high plasticity.

It is important to prepare not too much putty, as it is not stored ready-made. In this case, it is more convenient to get a smaller amount, and, if necessary, finish more. The thickening mixture is also not suitable for dilution with water and further use - since the formation of lumps in this case is simply inevitable. Therefore, thickened or completely hardened putty must be discarded, the container in which it was washed and prepared again.

Wall putty

Proper adherence to the technology of this process requires the application of putty, at least in two layers - starting, and then finishing. But in fact, there may be more layers - depending on the condition of the walls and their visible defects.

1) To apply putties, you will need two spatulas - wide and narrow. A wide spatula should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the container in which the putty is located - this is necessary so that it can fit there. The second, narrow, spatula is needed in order to distribute the putty along the entire length of the wide one, as well as to correct flaws. It can also be used to dial the product on a wide tool - here everyone develops a technique that is convenient for him.

2) The first layer is the starting putty, it is looser and can be applied in a thicker layer than the finishing one. With its help, you can hide minor wall defects - shells, small cracks. It is convenient to apply putty from the bottom up, using a wide spatula. The spatula is held by the handle with three fingers, and two - the middle and index fingers, are stops and it is convenient to adjust the pressing force on the spatula by holding it from above, by the plastic base.

The finished putty is plastic and easy to apply, it must be homogeneous and not contain lumps or other inclusions. It is necessary to apply the solution as evenly as possible, avoiding irregularities or visually noticeable strokes - a wide spatula helps a lot with this. It is desirable to work quickly, since the putty mixture hardens quite quickly and after some fifteen to twenty minutes it will be problematic to correct application errors.

3) You can continue to work only after the first layer is completely dry. If it is supposed to do a lot of layers, then at this stage it would be best to use a reinforcing mesh.

After the layer of starting putty has dried, the network must be fixed to the wall with temporary fasteners, and then a layer of finishing putty should be applied. It must be applied in such a way as to hide the mesh as much as possible, but at the same time, not too thick a layer - the maximum it should be no more than five millimeters. After this layer is applied, you should also wait for it to dry completely. If the reinforcing network is not completely covered by the first layer of putty, then another one must be applied that will hide it completely. This layer should also dry well.

4) The next stage is the application of the main layer. This is a high quality finishing putty - it is applied very thinly - a couple of millimeters, no more. It must be applied simultaneously, on the entire wall - otherwise, the transitions will be visually noticeable. This layer is not in vain the main one, it should be as even and carefully removed as possible. If, nevertheless, there are minor flaws, then after the work is completed and the putty has dried, they can be cleaned with a fine grinding mesh.

The mesh grain size should be no more than 3 mm cell, otherwise, a thin layer of the finish coating can be damaged and visually noticeable grinding marks can be left. In no case should you use cloth-based sandpaper - after such processing, noticeable traces almost always remain!

The finished surface, finished with putty, dries, depending on the temperature in the room - from 8 to 24 hours. After complete drying, further finishing work is possible.

Rating of the best putties

The modern construction market does not stand still and every year pleases consumers with new products, including putty mixtures. To date, according to the results of customer surveys, certain products are in the lead.

Starting putties

Volma Standard. This starting putty has proven itself both in Russia and abroad. Well suited for leveling surfaces, as well as for fine finishing. Suitable for plaster or cement walls. Worked best when used indoors.

Although this composition is intended for starting application, many experts note that it can also be used to obtain a finished surface, without applying a “finish”, since this putty is easily sanded and leaves no defects behind. This is a high quality material, easy to use and affordable. Among the shortcomings can be called a rather long drying time.

Founding Ecosilk. A product of domestic production, which has firmly established itself in the market of finishing materials. The putty of this brand is convenient for its plasticity, attractive appearance and, of course, a very affordable cost.

It can be applied in a not too thick layer, preferably up to 5 millimeters. Unfortunately, if this condition is not met, then after drying, cracks may appear on the finished surface.

Bolars Facade. Recognized as the best putty for facades, because of its excellent performance: frost resistance, not susceptible to precipitation. It can also be used in rooms with high vaporization. It has high resistance to mechanical damage, good vapor permeability, which allows the walls to "breathe" and creates the correct circulation of moisture in the room.

The maximum allowable layer is up to 10 millimeters, and this is without cracking. Accordingly, this plus entails a minus - a large expense. Also, some unpleasant moment is its high cost.

Finishing putties

Sheetrock SuperFinish rightfully occupies the first place among finishing products. It has the smallest grain size among putties, it is 0.03 millimeters.

This fact allows you to get a smooth, perfect surface with putty, on almost any wall - concrete, and others. Drying, this putty does not crack, again because of its fine structure - it adheres tightly to surfaces and does not peel off. All these advantages are complemented by the quite reasonable cost of the product, which makes it an excellent solution for every buyer.

By the way, until 2016, the putty bucket had a different look. Then the KG Stroy Systems Company transfers the SHEETROCK® line of ready-made putties under the umbrella brand of building materials DANOGIPS.

Knauf Rotband Pasta is a putty based on vinyl compounds. It is universal in terms of treated surfaces, suitable for concrete, gypsum boards and others, has a good adhesive ability.

Another distinctive feature: fast drying - about 5 hours. Some disadvantage is that this ready-to-use putty mixture gives a high consumption, even when applied with a thickness of about one millimeter. Also not happy and its high cost of 700 rubles.

Ceresit CT 225 is a cement-based putty. Suitable for both indoor and outdoor work. Application on cement bases is possible. Putty has excellent qualities: adhesion, moisture resistance and frost resistance.

It is popular due to the presence of special reinforcing fibers in the composition - they prevent cracking and shrinkage of the finished coating. You should also pay attention to the environmentally friendly composition. Of course, such putty is not cheap.

Universal putties

Knauf is fugen. Perfectly proved when using in rooms, in the conditions of room temperatures. As part of the gypsum-based putty, there are also polymer compounds, which made it possible to make the finished composition elastic. Good adhesive properties.

Suitable for cement or plastered walls. The list of advantages is complemented by low cost and minimal consumption. Despite the versatility, use in rooms with high humidity is not recommended, since the composition is hygroscopic.

VGT acrylic, universal. Completely ready for use immediately after opening the package. Suitable for warm interior spaces, without increased vaporization and moisture. It is possible to apply a thick layer - up to seven millimeters. Suitable for wood, concrete, plaster and cement surfaces. Cons: a rather large consumption, the possibility of shrinkage when the composition dries, and a rather large dustiness during subsequent processing.

UNIS BLIK. Gypsum-based putty. It is convenient because it can be applied in different layers - both thin and thick. According to the manufacturer's recommendations, the application layer can vary from half a millimeter to eight millimeters. It is also convenient and quick drying of the mixture - even with a thick layer it will be no more than seven hours.

The putty is easy to use, elastic and does not form cracks. However, there are also disadvantages: high consumption, the presence of foreign inclusions - pebbles may come across that interfere with the uniform distribution of the mass over the wall surface.

Puttying walls is an invariable attribute of any repair work. Even with smooth walls or plasterboard sheathing, it will still be necessary. Modern manufacturers of building materials daily develop and put into production new putties, trying to satisfy the most demanding customers. On the shelves of building hypermarkets there is a putty suitable for any surface, budget and application possibilities. It is only important to decide what exactly you need and make the right choice.