What to attach osb to. Wall decoration with osb slabs and roofing work

OSB (OSB) or OSB (oriented strand board) is a modern structural material that has become a serious alternative to plywood, chipboard and is widely used in construction frame houses and decoration of buildings and structures. OSB boards are sheathed on interior and exterior walls, floors and roofs. Wall cladding with OSB boards takes place in frame construction when the slab acts as a structural material and serves to reinforce the walls of the building, or when it acts as a facade material of concrete, brick or wooden houses, which is caused by a low price and high strength and durability of the material. In this article we will consider the question: how to fix the OSB boards to the wall from its outer side.

When installing OSB boards to external walls, the crate is used for the following purposes:

alignment of the plane of the wall;
creation of a ventilation gap for insulation under the OSB plate;
prevention of deformation of the slab caused by base movements, especially important for OSB slabs with a thickness of 9 mm or less.

Fastening OSB boards to the wall over the insulation using the crate

The slab is fastened to the wall using a crate, which is made of wooden block, or metal profile. Technologies for mounting OSB boards on a wall with wooden crate and a crate made of a metal profile do not fundamentally differ. When choosing a bar, it is advisable to choose a dry, planed bar of 40-50 mm, then it will not turn out and will not lead after drying, which will positively affect the evenness of the entire wall.

To attach the bar and profile to the wall, special metal plates (suspensions) are used. Before attaching the suspensions, it is necessary to draw vertical stripes on the wall, the distance between which should be half the width of the sheet, which subsequently will ensure the joint of the plates right in the middle of the bar or profile and will make it possible to fix the OSB plate in the center along its entire length. After the lines are drawn, hangers are attached along them in increments of 30-40 cm.

A metal hanger is used to fasten the crate.
Hangers are attached along the marked lines. Hangers allow you to fix the crate over the insulation.

After that, the insulation is laid and covered with a membrane that protects the insulation from moisture, after which the crate is mounted.

It should be noted that a vapor barrier is not needed outside the building, as it prevents the ingress of humid air into the insulation from inside the room, and with outside structure, excess moisture should freely go outside.

Wall with a crate. Insulation is laid between the crate and the wall.

After fixing the crate, you can proceed with the installation of OSB boards. For wall cladding, a plate from 9 to 12 mm thick is most often used. If a facade is not mounted on top of the slab, then the slab must be moisture resistant. To the crate of wooden beam OSB boards are fastened with nails at least 2.5 times the thickness of the OSB sheet. To the crate from a metal profile - to self-tapping screws for metal 10-15 mm long more than the thickness of the OSB sheet.

With this installation, the crate weighs over the insulation, and does not create cold bridges in the insulation between the wall and the OSB boards. Thanks to this solution, maximum efficiency of the heater is achieved. In addition, between the bars of the crate there is an air gap through which moisture is removed from the insulation, which also increases its characteristics. More detailed information about the technology of a ventilated facade is in the article:.

Fastening OSB boards to a wooden frame

When building frame houses, the recommendations for choosing sheets are the same as for sheathing previously erected walls. The only difference is when the sheets act as a stiffening element. In this case, their thickness must be at least 12 mm. The recommended thickness is usually 15-18 mm.

When installing walls with wooden frame two main approaches are used: fastening OSB sheets to the frame through the crate and fastening OSB sheets directly to the frame without crate. Let's consider both.

How to fasten walls to a frame using a crate

When with inside The walls are attached to the frame with strong plates, which provide good rigidity of the wall structure, then outside between the frame and the OSB plate, a crate can be made. The crate forms air cavities for ventilation of the insulation and reduces deformation loads from the frame to the OSB board.

Insulation is placed between the racks of the frame. On top of the racks and insulation, a wind- and waterproofing membrane is attached, which easily passes moisture. Next, the crate is attached and OSB boards are attached to it.

Installation of OSB boards on a wooden frame with a crate.

With this design, the plates can be left unfinished, you can paint them, plaster or fix almost any facade material.

When fixing OSB slabs without using lathing, the maximum rigidity of the wall structure is achieved. In this case, it is recommended to fasten the wind and waterproof membrane behind the OSB plate, then mount the crate to create a ventilation gap and facade material on it, such as siding, boards or decorative panels. OSB boards are fastened to a wooden frame with nails at least 2.5 times the thickness of the OSB sheet.

The advantage of using nails over self-tapping screws when fastening OSB from the outside of the house is justified by the fact that nails better tolerate deformations of OSB sheets under atmospheric influences.

Installation of OSB on the walls of a frame house without a crate

Among the ways to provide rigidity to the frame, three methods are considered optimal, which can be combined with each other:

Fastening sheet materials to frame racks inside the house;

Stabilizers between the racks of the frame;

Fastening sheet materials to frame racks outside the house.

When OSB sheets are mounted to the frame posts outside the house, the crate between the sheets and the frame posts leads to a decrease in rigidity by almost half. Therefore, to ensure maximum structural strength, this crate is excluded from it. Without a crate, the ventilation gap disappears, so it is recommended to mount such a crate over OSB sheets. A hydro-windproof vapor-permeable film is attached to the OSB, then a crate, and on top of any suitable facade material: siding, corrugated board, wood, facade panels, and so on.

The technology of fastening OSB sheets to a wooden frame without the use of crates.

The above option is preferred. But there are other ways too. When it is necessary that the OSB sheets attached to the racks act as a facade, and nothing is mounted on top of them, then ventilation gap can be arranged between the racks of the frame. For this, the space between the racks of the frame is not completely filled with insulation. Leave 2-3 cm for the ventilation gap between the insulation and OSB sheets. The hydro-windproof vapor-permeable film is attached to the frame with the help of rails. So that these slats remain between the racks - on two sides to each rack.

A compromise option is the use of oblique crates. It is laid at an angle of 45 degrees. This contributes to increased rigidity compared to a straight crate. To increase rigidity, boards with a thickness of 25 mm are better suited as such crates. The board is attached to each rack of the frame with two nails. Due to the increased consumption of materials and the complexity of the work, this method is used extremely rarely, so there is no statistical information about performance characteristics built houses.

Oblique crate.

Fastening OSB boards to a metal frame

Fastening is carried out similarly to the variant with a wooden frame. When fixing plates directly to metal frame use self-tapping screws for metal with a length of 10-15 mm more than the thickness of the OSB sheet.

General rules for mounting OSB boards to the wall

Regardless of the chosen method of fastening OSB sheets, there is general rules, compliance with which will ensure maximum strength, reliability and durability of the sheathing design.

Self-tapping screws should be screwed at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other and at least 1 cm from the edge of the plate.
A gap of 10 mm is required between the bottom plate and the foundation to prevent water accumulation.
The plates cannot be butted close to each other, a gap of 2-3 mm is required between them so that the plate can expand freely from moisture changes.
All door and window openings are cut with a jigsaw or circular saw, but if you need perfectly even joints and cuts, then you can come to the furniture workshop with ready-made sizes and OSB sheets, where for a small fee they will cut your sheets on a panel saw evenly and accurately to size.

Which side to mount OSB sheets

All sides of OSB sheets do not differ in composition. But there are differences in the surfaces. Often one side is smooth and the other rough. In this case, when mounting the plates on the walls from the outside of the building, it is better to fasten the sheets with the smooth side outward. With this orientation rainwater will not accumulate in such quantities in the unevenness of the plate. Water accelerates the destruction of the plate. Protecting the sheets from water penetration into them helps to increase their durability.

When installing tiles on the roof under the roof, in turn, OSB sheets are recommended to be placed with the rough side up so that it is not slippery to walk on them during roofing work.

When installing OSB boards in places protected from moisture, the choice of their orientation does not have a significant impact on subsequent operation.

In most cases, when installing OSB sheets outside the house, a ventilation gap is provided. Air moves along it, which enters from the bottom of the wall from the surrounding space and exits from above back into the atmosphere. Blind sealing of ventilation gaps on either side is not allowed. Otherwise, instead of a venzazor, a closed air cavity is obtained.

Wasps, mice, small birds can penetrate into the ventilation gap and build nests there, thereby violating the characteristics of the wall. Therefore, it is recommended to provide protection at the stage of its construction or repair.

There are several options for protecting the wall from rodents, birds and insects, consider them.

Protection with metal meshes and sheet metal with small holes. It is better to use stainless metal that will not corrode. The mesh or strips of metal are attached to the bottom and top of the wall behind the OSB sheets so that they do not affect appearance at home.

Paint grid. Differs from previous version low cost and less strength.

Perforated facade material at the bottom and top of the wall. For example, in the case of siding, these are perforated spotlights.

Lattices or grids are mounted at the inlet and outlet of the ventilation gaps.

The rough floor is fast, high-quality and inexpensive - this is the combination that most builders and their clients are trying to achieve. The easiest way to form such a floor covering is from OSB boards. Laying technology depends on the type of base and additional requirements for the finished floor.

OSB: composition and characteristics

OSB or OSB is oriented strand board. In transliteration, OSB is often called OSB, but this is not entirely true, as it contradicts the decoding, but is used everywhere.

The slabs are a composite of large wood chips and polymer binders. They are formed from several layers located perpendicular to each other. This design ensures the resistance of the sheets to torsional deformations and makes them resistant to tearing and delamination.

According to the production technology, OSB is identical to chipboard, with the difference that the first uses finely planed wood chips up to 4 mm thick and up to 25 cm long, while the second uses fine sawdust. As a binder, thermosetting resins (urea-formaldehyde, melamine, etc.) are added to the raw materials. Typical dimensions plates:

height 2440 mm,
width - 1220 mm,
thickness - 6-38 mm

OSB is available in 4 varieties:

OSB-1 - thin boards used for the production of packaging, furniture blanks, construction of temporary structures, etc.
OSB-2 is standard sheets which can be used in dry ventilated areas. Application - for internal rough work (flooring, leveling walls, ceilings, forming household boxes, etc.).
OSB-3 is a moisture resistant material containing paraffin additives. Possesses the increased resistance to the increased humidity, it is recommended for application both in rooms, and for external finishing works.
Withstands high humidity both indoors and outdoors. When used in rooms such as bathrooms, saunas and others, it is recommended to use coating or flooring waterproofing materials.
OSB-4 - high density durable boards. This is the material to form load-bearing structures.

It is impossible to say for sure which one is better or worse. It all depends on the destination. Leveling the base for laminate, linoleum, ceramic tiles and other types finishing materials carried out with OSB-3 sheets. Their advantages are that they perfectly withstand serious loads (furniture, equipment) even when installed on logs, are resistant to temperature and humidity changes, are easy to process, and installation is possible even for an inexperienced beginner.

In addition to the above advantages, OSB is a heat-insulating material with a slight noise-reducing effect. Therefore, so often manufacturers of vinyl and carpets it is strongly recommended to lay on the concrete floor first a warm substrate of hard wood materials that closes with a fine finish.

The thickness of the boards used depends on the installation method. For a concrete even base with a difference of no more than 2-4 mm for every 2 meters of area, it is reasonable to use panels of 10-12 mm. When laying the floor on the logs with your own hands, the installation of OSB with a cross section of 18 mm or more is justified. Experts recommend laying sheets of 10-12 mm in 2 layers with overlapping seams. It turns out a multi-layered kind of "substrate", which guarantees increased strength and durability of the base.

OSB installation technology will be discussed below.

OSB laying on a wooden floor

We especially note that it is impossible to use a semi-dry cement-sand screed, lay GVL, asbestos-cement slabs and other similar materials on wooden floors.

The fact is that the coefficients of thermal expansion and moisture absorption of these construction funds do not correspond to those of wood. There is a high risk that the base may begin to rot under the leveling layer, mold, etc.

To install OSB on a wooden floor, you will need the following tools:

electric planer to remove excessively protruding parts;
hammer or screwdriver;
electric drill;
hydraulic level;
nails or wood screws;
tape measure and construction pencil;
hacksaw or jigsaw;

Of the building materials, you will additionally need a rail to form a log 4x5cm, 3x4 cm, insulation ( mineral wool, ecowool, expanded clay) or soundproofing material, as well as antiseptic and putty compounds for filling pits, potholes in the base.

Installation begins with the preparation of a wooden floor. The surface must be carefully inspected, the protruding parts should be cut off, and the pits and other defects should be puttied with quick-drying repair compounds. It can be a special wood putty, blitz cement, or just sawdust mixed with PVA glue.

Before laying OSB, skirting boards, nails and other irregularities are first removed from the subfloor

To protect against mold and bugs, the base must be covered with several layers of fire-retardant impregnation or primer with antiseptic additives. Ideally, you can also varnish it, but this is rarely done. The term of complete drying is at least 3 days.

The next step is the frame. Logs also require protection, so the bars are treated with bioprotective compounds, cut to the size of the room and mounted to the floor with self-tapping screws at a distance of 30-60 cm parallel to each other. Evenness is checked by a hydraulic level; thin dies can be placed to fit under the rails. Heat-insulating or noise-suppressing material is laid in the gaps.

The finishing stage of the subfloor is the fastening of OSB boards to the frame with your own hands using self-tapping screws or nails. Sheets are marked, if necessary, appropriate cutting is carried out, and tightly fixed to the logs.

Be sure to leave thermal compensation gaps between the wall and OSB sheets with a width of 2-5 mm. The distance between adjacent plates is optional.

After completing the work, you need to check the resulting base with a level. If there are bumps at the joints, they can be scraped off with a grinder or just sandpaper. Additionally, for ventilation of the "pie", it is recommended to drill several holes near the walls with a drill.

If you lay OSB on wooden base without lag, then the floor must be sufficiently even, dry and durable. In this case, you can do with only self-tapping screws and a screwdriver, and alignment can be done in a day. The coating will be of proper quality if the materials are fastened to each other not only around the perimeter, but also crosswise over the entire area of the sheet.

Installation of OSB on a concrete floor

A draft floor of oriented strand boards can only be formed on dry, “ripened” concrete with a moisture content of not more than 6%. But even in this case, it is recommended to use a waterproofing film, membrane or coating composition. If you put OSB without this protection, then mold, fungi, and foci of decay may appear on the base from excessive moisture.

For laying sheets with your own hands directly on a concrete base, it is recommended to use panels with a thickness of 10-16 mm. Such alignment is allowed with differences up to 2 mm per 2 m 2. This is enough to make the subfloor warm and even. Installation begins with the laying of a waterproofing substrate. Joints are fixed with adhesive tape. OSB sheets are applied from above and tightly fastened with self-tapping screws. There should be a gap of 2-3 mm between the wall and the edge of the subfloor.

If installation is carried out on logs, then bars are first fixed on top of the film, heat or sound insulating material is installed in between, then everything is covered with OSB sheets from above. As a thermal insulator, you can use foam, EPS and other types of insulation.

In order to make a high-quality subfloor on logs or on a base, do not forget to constantly check the work done with a hydraulic level. This will minimize fluctuations and correct errors in time.

Main scope OSB applications slabs are the arrangement of structural elements of a building: roof, floor, walls. At the same time, the installation of OSB slabs has some features, the knowledge of which will help to make the sheathing of high quality and durable. Before you start installation, you need to decide on the choice of hardware that will play leading role when fixing OSB.
Content:

Used nails and screws

There are many types of nails that are used depending on the location of the plate and its weight:

finishing: used where camouflage is desirable and the likelihood of pulling out is minimized. Often used in conjunction with glue.
round without a hat: needed when laying floors, during installation frame structures and when fixing plates with a tongue and groove connection
with a hat: used where there is no need for disguise;

There are also special nails that have an annular or screw type thread. Such hardware holds the nailed plate better, but is difficult to pull out.

It is best to fasten the panels with screws designed for working with wood - the reliability of fastening increases dramatically. This allows the use of a much smaller number of screws when compared with the number of nails. If necessary, the screw can be easily unscrewed by switching the screwdriver to reverse.

Roof finish

Before starting installation, make sure that the lathing is parallel or rafter legs. The surface must be leveled, and failure to comply with this requirement leads to the impossibility of a reliable tongue-and-groove connection.

If the slabs prepared for installation have been exposed to rain, they must be dried before laying.

Before installation, make sure that the attic space has adequate ventilation (the total area of the ventilation holes must be at least 1/150 of the total horizontal area).

The largest part of the operating load should lie on the long axis of the slab. The articulation of the short ends must be carried out on roof supports. The long sides are joined on auxiliary supports, the connection method is tongue-and-groove or H-brackets.

If the edges of the plates are even (i.e., there is no tongue and groove), then a dilatation gap of 3 millimeters should be left. This will enable the material to change dimensions with temperature changes without compromising the quality of the coating.

The slab must rest on at least 2 supports (on which the connection must fall). The dependence of the distance between the elements of the crate on the thickness of the OSB is shown below (for roofs with a slope of no more than 14 degrees):

1m: plate thickness from 18 mm;
0.8 meters: thickness from 15 mm;
0.6 meters: thickness from 12 mm.

When laying the slab next to the chimney, it is necessary to comply with the norms established by SNiP. High-quality fastening of the osb slab to the rafters is possible using ring nails from 4.5 to 7.5 cm long, or spiral nails 5.1 cm long. The distance to the edge of the slab cannot be less than 10 mm.

Installation of OSB on walls

Installation can go in two ways: in a horizontal position or vertical.

When bypassing the window, doorways leave a gap of approximately 3 mm.

With a distance between the wall supports of 40-60 cm, it is recommended that the walls be sheathed with OSB slabs 1.2 cm thick. If thermal insulation is necessary, then it should be arranged before fixing the slabs. As a heat-insulating material, preference should be given to mineral wool.

To fasten the plates, two-inch spiral nails (51 mm) or ring nails from 4.5 to 7.5 cm long are used. They must be driven every 30 cm into intermediate supports. At the joints of the plates, the nails are driven in every 15 cm. From the edge, the nails should be hammered in increments of 10 cm (no closer than 1 cm from the edge).

Dilatation gaps must also be left:

between the top edge of the slab and the crown beam: 1 cm;
between the bottom edge of the plate and foundation wall: 1cm;
between plates that do not have a groove-ridge connection: 0.3 cm.

Floor laying

Before laying the material, it is necessary to make waterproofing (if the floor is done on the first floor).

OSB boards should be connected on logs. If there are no grooves and ridges, maintain the same gap of 3 millimeters. If a floating floor is planned, leave a gap of 1.2 cm between the wall and the edge of the slab.

Should be laid perpendicular to the joists. The long edges of the plates must be connected to each other by means of a groove and a ridge, and in their absence, with H-shaped brackets. It is desirable that the connection rest on an auxiliary support. The short sides of the slab must be connected on the logs. The dependence of the thickness of the slab on the distance between the lags is shown below:

from 1.5 to 1.8 cm: the distance between the lags is not more than 40 cm;
from 1.8 to 2.2 cm: no more than 50 cm;
from 2.2 cm: distance - 60 cm.

For fastening, the same types of nails are used, which require OSB wall cladding and roof arrangement. On intermediate supports, nails are driven in increments of 30 cm, at the junction of plates - in increments of 15 cm.

To increase the rigidity of the entire coating, giving it a holistic look, you can glue the plates to the logs. It will also be useful to glue the groove-comb connection.

It is necessary to use only synthetic glue (compositions on water based ineffective due to the presence of paraffin in the structure of the plate).

OSB finish

After fixing you will need. The most common way is putty. This method allows you to seal all the gaps in the joints to prevent moisture from entering. Plus, high-quality work will help prepare the plates for a possible further finishing(e.g. varnishing or painting).

To obtain an aesthetically attractive look, it is better to use plates specially polished by the manufacturer. In this case, you will have to spend less time and material on future finishing.

Before carrying out work, you should walk on the plate with a finely notched sandpaper, and then cover the surface with a primer (it should not be water-based). Next, you need to choose how to putty OSB. It is better if the composition you choose is colorless. To do this, use one of the types of putty:

on a plaster basis;
acrylic;
latex.

After completing this stage, you can think about how to finish the walls from OSB. For example, it could be varnishing. The plate should be varnished in 3-4 steps with complete drying of each layer. Lacquering will add shine to the surface and provide reliable protection from moisture penetration.

Another way of finishing is painting. Use paint that does not contain water. After, it can even be laminated or finished with a special film.

Most of the ways to finish the house are available after the walls have been sheathed with OSB boards in compliance with the technologies and recommendations of the manufacturer.

In construction and repair, various sheet materials are often used for wall and ceiling cladding. One of these materials is oriented particle board(OSB), also found on sale under the English name OSB (Oriented Strand Board).

OSB: what is it and how to use it

OSB is made from wood chips and large chips, gluing them together at high temperature with synthetic resins.

The slab consists of several layers, usually 3-4, with different chip orientations.

In the outer layers, the chips are located along the long side of the sheet, in the inner layers - across. According to its characteristics, OSB is close to plywood, but costs less.

Advantages and Features

A distinctive feature of OSB is its high strength, due to the cross arrangement of wood fibers. In terms of strength, the boards are superior to MDF, chipboard and wood, slightly inferior to plywood. Plates show high resistance to chemicals. Some manufacturers use special impregnations in the production of boards - fire retardants, which reduce the combustibility of the material. OSB boards are easy to process; to work with them, you need a regular woodworking tool.

How OSB boards are calculated

Basically, 2 standard sizes of plates are 2440 * 1220 mm (American standard) and 2500 * 1250 mm (European). There are OSB and other sizes, but they are much less common and are produced mainly to order.

To calculate the quantity, it is easiest to draw a wall plan on checkered paper, taking the cell size as 250 for slabs European standard or 300 mm - for the American. Then draw OSB boards on the plan and count their number. It is better to arrange the sheets in a checkerboard pattern. In this case, it is necessary to take into account how the surface will be finished in the future.

If sheathing is planned, for example, with siding on the street or gypsum board indoors, joining with non-factory cuts is allowed, but if painting is provided, try to join the plates with factory cuts. It is desirable to keep the number of joints to a minimum. For example, it is better to sew up a wall fragment measuring 2.4 m by 1.2 m with one sheet, and not with 3 pieces of 0.8 * 1.2 m, because it is quite difficult to make a perfectly even cut, and even a slight deviation from straightness forms a gap. To the received amount of OSB, you need to add a few sheets for a margin in case of marriage or errors when cutting.

An easier way is to divide the surface area by the leaf area. In this case, "in reserve" it is necessary to take at least 20% of the quantity. Round up the resulting number.

What are OSB boards for exterior walls

OSB is made of 4 types:

OSB-1 - used only in dry rooms for sheathing.
OSB-2 - used as a structural material in dry rooms.
OSB-3 - can be used both indoors and outdoors. Can be used under conditions high humidity. Strength allows OSB-3 to be used as a structural material.
The most common class of OSB-4 is more durable and moisture resistant than OSB-3.

For exterior wall cladding, only classes 3 and 4 can be used.

Installation outside: crate

External wall cladding can be carried out in several cases:

In order to align existing walls, hide defects (cracks, crumbling plaster, etc.) and just as a lining.
In frame construction - to protect the insulation from wind and precipitation, as well as an element of the carrier system.
When insulating walls - to protect the insulation from atmospheric phenomena.

In all 3 cases, OSB sheets are attached to the crate. The crate is made of wooden lumber of various sections, depending on the task. The most commonly used non-planed coniferous bar natural humidity section 50*50 or 40*50 mm. Mounting OSB on a metal frame is allowed.

When insulating, the crate is carried out in increments of a multiple of the width of the insulation minus 20 mm, without insulation - the step is chosen so that the joints of the sheets fall on the bar, several additional racks are added between the joints with a distance between them of at least 600 mm.

When cladding walls, use a moisture-windproof film, following the recommendations of its manufacturer, in particular, the distance between the membrane and the OSB.

How to attach panels to the wall

OSB boards are usually attached to the wall through the crate with self-tapping screws for wood when used in a frame of bars or for metal when attached to a frame made of a metal profile. The length of the self-tapping screw should be 25-45 mm.

It is allowed to mount the OSB directly on the wall. To do this, holes are drilled in a sheet cut to size, the sheet is put in place, the wall is drilled with a puncher in the intended places, dowels are inserted and self-tapping screws are twisted. When fastening to a wooden base, the hardware is twisted without pre-drilling.

Fasten the screws in one selected direction, for example, from left to right from bottom to top, otherwise the OSB sheet may bend.

How to decorate from osb outside beautifully

OSB has a rather interesting texture, which leaves many options for finishing. At the same time, it must be remembered that OSB is 90% wood, so the material is subject to the same hazards as wood. Fungus, mold can appear on the plates, they are prone to rotting to a small extent, the resin can be destroyed under the influence of sunlight, the ends of the panels absorb moisture.

OSB-plate is treated with wood compounds for outdoor use. The composition must provide protection from ultraviolet radiation. To preserve the color and texture, the surface is coated with a colorless varnish and antiseptic impregnations, to give wood shades - decorative antiseptics, for coloring in various colors – facade paints for a tree.

To obtain a smooth surface, OSB walls are plastered and puttied. Before applying the plaster, the surface of the plate must be protected from moisture with special primers or glassine, then fixed plaster mesh and plaster. Drawing is possible decorative plaster or painting.

Also, OSB walls can be covered with any type of siding or facade panels, block house, clapboard, etc.

OSB material for interior work

OSB indoors is used for cladding walls, ceilings, for subflooring, as a structural material in the manufacture of built-in furniture, to create decorative elements, boxes, technological cabinets. In frame building inner lining walls OSB increases the strength of the structure.

Work progress

OSB wall cladding consists of the following steps:

Markup.
Sheathing device.
Laying heat and sound insulation if provided by the project.
Fastening whole sheets OSB.
Sawing OSB to size.
Fastening the rest of the sheets.

Tools

For sheathing OSB walls you will need:

Hacksaw, Circular Saw or a jigsaw for cutting material.
Screwdriver.
Level.
Marking tool (tape measure, square, pencil).
Perforator for sheathing brick walls.
Chisel.

Interior finishing options

The unusual structure of the OSB allows you to create a rather attractive interior. Plates can be used without finishing, but it is better to varnish them to improve performance. OSB can be painted with wood paints, treated with decorative impregnations for wood. To obtain a smooth surface, the panels need to be puttied with wood putties, after which they can be painted or wallpapered.

How to make a crate for osb

When constructing a crate of bars, first fix the bar around the perimeter, then install vertical racks with a pitch of 406 mm with a sheet width of 1220 mm and 416 mm with a sheet width of 1250. If you need to join the sheets in height, a horizontal bar is attached at the junction.

The bars are attached to the wall in 2 ways:

Directly through the bar. When fastening to concrete, brick, cinder block and aerated concrete walls holes are drilled in the bars according to the diameter of the dowel in increments of 300-400 mm, the bar is attached to the wall, holes are drilled through the prepared holes in the wall with a puncher, dowels are inserted and screws are twisted or anchors are used. It is more convenient to first fix the bar along the edges, after which you can not hold it and calmly fasten it at the other designated points. When fastening to wooden walls, the bar is attracted with self-tapping screws without drilling holes. Self-tapping screws are better to use "white" or "yellow", because. with excessive effort, the “black” hat breaks off and it is very difficult to remove such a self-tapping screw. To adjust the frame vertically, wood linings are used.
On galvanized corners or U-shaped fixing profiles. In this case, the position of the bars is first marked, fasteners are installed according to this markup, then the bar is attached with self-tapping screws.

When using a metal profile for the frame, a guide profile is attached around the perimeter, and a rack profile on the plane. The profile is fixed to the wall on special suspensions.

Racks and rails on the walls must be strictly vertical!

Is a frame crate with OSB sheathing inside mandatory?

OSB boards can be mounted directly on the wall, but it is better to use a crate. This will allow you to correct the slope or curvature of the wall, lay mineral wool to improve heat and sound insulation. Also, the crate creates an air cushion, so that the space between the wall and the OSB-plate is ventilated.

Installation of OSB boards

OSB is fixed with the long side oriented vertically to reduce the number of horizontal joints. When attaching the first sheet, you should control its level position, otherwise cracks may appear in the corners of the walls. Otherwise, the fastening rules are the same as for outdoor work.

What should be the thickness

OSB comes in different thicknesses: 6, 8, 9, 10, 12, 15, 18, 22, 25 mm.
Sheets with a thickness of 6 and 8 mm are used for sheathing ceilings and structures that are not subject to mechanical stress. OSB-plates with a thickness of 6 mm can be used for curved surfaces with a large radius of curvature.

Plates with a thickness of 9-12 mm - the main sheathing material for facing walls and ceilings, both outside and inside the premises, for the device solid battens under the roof

Material with a thickness of 18 mm or more is used for the manufacture of furniture, load-bearing structures and subfloors.

Work examples

OSB sheathed loft

OSB built-in shelving

OSB seating area

OSB putty

Operation of finishing from OSB: features

OSB walls do not require any special care, it suffices to observe the rules common to wooden surfaces e.g. avoid prolonged exposure to moisture.

OSB is a modern high-tech material that, with proper installation, can last for many years.

Useful video

Multifunctional, comfortable materials for many construction works, can be viewed in the photo and video, oriented strand boards are used. Simple manufacturing technology allows you to produce osb for interior decoration four types of basic and three special types of plates.
Flat fragments of the geometric shape of wood chips or shavings are glued layer by layer into sheets of products. The optimal number of layers of shavings or chips ranges from three to four.
These boards are better than conventional chipboard, or rather, they are their modified, modern version. If funds allow, and technical tasks require their use, then OSB is preferable to materials such as chipboard or plywood.

Considering the qualifications and deciding how to finish the walls of OSB, attention should be paid to the characteristics of the plates.
So:

The first class includes OSB boards, characterized by application and use in an environment with low humidity.
The second type of materials is suitable for use as structural elements in construction in dry rooms.
The third type of qualification is used for the manufacture of structures in high humidity.
The fourth type of products is used for the installation of structures that can withstand significant mechanical loads in conditions with high humidity.

OSB boards are widely used in construction. The manufacturing technology eliminates internal defects inherent in chipboard sheets (uneven filling or voids), which does not allow OSB boards to shrink or deform.
So:

from osb will not only protect the house from dampness and insulate, but also minimize additional finishing work.
Moisture-resistant OSB board is used in the construction of frame-panel houses.
Its moisture resistance allows making reusable formwork from this material.
It is used as a base for external wall cladding and for internal works when finishing country, wooden houses from logs, timber and cottages.
The device of the lathing and rafters for the roof is not complete without OSB slabs. They are able to work under significant load and withstand the weight of the roof itself, even from natural tiles, snow, wind.
Need flooring or leveling? OSB board is again in use, creating an even, solid base for plank floorboards, flooring or carpets.
Important point- fitting the joints of the plates along the plane, they need to be equalized if necessary.

Attention: OSB boards of not all manufacturers can be used as underlying layers under floor coverings, and the panels are laid smooth side up just before the flooring.

Additionally, it is not necessary to cover the plates with a protective varnish or paints, because it is sufficiently protected by a special impregnation.
Processing the plate is no more difficult than processing wood, it holds nails and screws perfectly. OSB boards are not subject to rotting and are not affected by fungus, in addition, they have good decorative qualities.
OSB panels are successfully used for the production of furniture, being an excellent substitute for solid wood, but the price of products from OSB panels is much lower.
A fairly small weight of the material is convenient for finishing or painting with your own hands and construction work

How to speed up the home decorating process

The desires of people involved in the construction of their own are understandable, who are eager to move into their own, separate corner from their lovely neighbors. A natural question arises, is it possible not to do a rough sheathing and fix the finishing materials directly on the frame racks?
The instruction of specialists contains recommendations and an explanation of why this should not be done. In order for the house to be warm, it must be insulated.

The upper and lower slopes of the frame, together with the skin, form the spatial rigidity, and they are mandatory elements in the construction of frame houses. Without cuts, the frame retains its mobility even with sheathing, as well as with cuts, but without sheathing, you can imagine the overall picture of the consequences yourself by turning on your imagination.

Exterior wall cladding

There are quite a lot of materials used for rough sheathing and there are plenty to choose from. Board, LSU, DSP and OSB boards.
All these surfaces require finishing, plaster with a layer of foam or mesh. Some advise to leave the boarding in the role fine finish, but then it is required additional processing wood, and even a device for wind and hydroprotection of walls under the boards.

Square osb sheets allows you to get fewer joints than when working with other materials, OSB finishing is used with a thickness of 10-12 mm.
So:

OSB boards are attached to the posts in such a way that the joint is in the middle and there is a gap of 3-5 mm between them.
The lower trim is completely covered with a sheet.
The upper harness is tied to the number of storeys of the house. It is completely hidden and the edge of the OSB board is aligned with the edge of the strapping if the building has one floor.
With a two-story building, the sheet is positioned so that it goes into the racks of both floors, but the upper trim overlaps with the approximate middle of the sheet. This is not a prerequisite, but when it is performed, the structure acquires additional rigidity.

Finishing osb boards when fastened to two-story house, it is better to perform with a whole sheet in order to make the joints outside the opening racks to adjacent racks. The window opening is cut into the slab.
Convenient docking of plates is obtained by making additional vertical or horizontal jumpers in the frame with the same section as the racks.
Fastening is carried out with spiral nails, self-cutting screws 4.5 mm and 50 mm long, combined fastening with self-cutting screws and nails can be used.

The main thing is to follow the basic rules for the production of fasteners:

Finishing in intermediate areas osb boards fixed after 30 cm.
The joints of the plates are fixed after 15 cm.
The outer edge is stitched through 10 cm.

Attention: In order not to get a plate cracked from diligent fasteners, the distance from the edge of the product to the place of fixation is 8-10 mm.

A gap of 3-5 mm is left between the plates so that they do not warp and the fasteners are driven into the rack by 40-50 mm.
The vulnerable part of the OSB plate or its "Achilles' heel" is located at the ends. To protect them, expansion gaps are provided between the upper edge and the crown beam, the lower and the foundation wall of 1 cm, between the plates, where there is no groove-ridge for connection of 0.3 cm.
To process expansion gaps, an acrylic sealant is used, which should evenly fill all cavities.
A super-diffusion membrane with a vapor permeability of 800 g/m² per day or more should perform the function of waterproofing and wind protection in this design. The use of films, polyethylene, glassine is undesirable, due to low vapor permeability, and excess moisture must be vented.
The superdiffusion membrane is located depending on the rough sewing with materials and the finishing with products. The membrane is attached to the racks of the frame on the insulation closely.
The crate is being arranged wooden slats 20x50 or 30x50 mm, it allows you to get the necessary clearance, then finishing with OSB slabs, DSP, LSU or board.
The vapor barrier of the walls is carried out with a film from the inside of the room, located close to the insulation, fastened with a construction stapler. Docking is carried out with an overlap of 10-15 cm and the joints are glued with adhesive tape.
Not construction, ordinary adhesive tape is used, but a special double-sided, adhesive tape for vapor barrier.
Vapor barrier can also be made with foamed, foil polyethylene, which does not thicken the main thermal insulation of the wall.

Interior decoration

How to finish the slab was offended to give preference to drywall for the internal lining of the walls of the house. The dispute is won by the osb plate.
Frame racks are difficult to keep when working in a perfectly flat condition and drywall, as more soft material, in comparison with the OSB board, accepts these irregularities and, in order to subsequently obtain an ideal surface, it is required to apply more layers for leveling. The osb plate is much tougher in structure and allows you to somewhat smooth out the flaws.
Next comes the cleanup.

Roofing with OSB-3 boards

The most widespread way of application of this material in roofing works. The optimum thickness is 18 mm for covering the roof with OSB-3 boards.

So:

Products can have either a flat or a locking edge, it is preferable.
The distance between load-bearing beams should not be more than 610 mm, both when creating flat and sloping roofs.
The value has the possibility of expanding the plates, so gaps are left for one running meter no more than 2 mm.
When laying slabs with even edges, gaps of 3 mm are provided around the perimeter of each slab.
Fastening is carried out with nails to supporting supports with a distance between them of 100 mm or more.
Finishing OSB boards is fastened with nails, the length of which should be 2.5 plate thicknesses or a little more.

The requirements for the use of water-based products apply to the interior finishes of OSB panels. A slab of polished panels looks better when the appearance plays a prominent role in the interior.
Manufacturers recommend not to use wallpaper or ceramic tiles for their decoration.