Do-it-yourself concrete floor in the garage step by step. Making the right concrete floors in the garage

In this article, we will not talk about the installation of floors in garage boxes and public garages. It is unlikely that someone will make them with their own hands. Let's talk about a concrete floor in a garage for one or two private cars.

Garage floor requirements

In the construction of floors there is such a thing as floor design. For the design, it is necessary to determine the operating conditions of the future floors and determine their structure from them.

The floor in a private garage, which I will further call the garage floor, is not exposed to the influence of large automotive equipment, tractors will not drive on it, and therefore the mechanical effect on the garage floor is considered moderate. Also, precipitation and direct streams of water will not fall on the floor in the garage, because we do not expect to wash the car directly in the garage. Therefore, according to the effect of moisture on the garage floor, we will consider it average, with a margin.

These operational features, moderate exposure to moisture and moderate mechanical stress will be the basis for the conditional design of the floor.

Garage floor construction

The construction of the floor in the garage, we will draw on the basis of the recommendations of SP 29_13330 of 2011 under the name "Floors". According to this document, a concrete floor in a garage with the above operational features should be:

• With a slope of 1-2% from the middle to the sides. If you think your garage floor will be dry, then the slope is not needed;
• The total thickness of the concrete floor, including in the floor structure from the subgrade: the underlying layer, screed and floor covering, must be at least 120 mm.

Garage subfloor

The base of the floor in the garage can be any soil, except for peat, black earth and other weak soil. They need to be replaced. The base of the floor must either be leveled or the necessary slope of 1-2% must be made on the ground. The base soil must be compacted.

If the underlying layer is planned to be made of concrete, and not of sand or gravel, then the soil should be reinforced with a layer of crushed stone (gravel), which must be buried 40 mm into the ground. In addition, under the concrete underlying layer, it is necessary to make waterproofing, from the penetration of sewage and groundwater.

Waterproofing the garage

Waterproofing should be provided under the concrete sublayer if:

• There is a high probability of groundwater rise to the bottom of the underlying layer.
• If the underlying layer is below the level of the blind area of ​​the house.

Waterproofing a garage is combined with waterproofing the foundation of a house, basement walls or basement walls.

For waterproofing use:

• Bituminous roll materials on mastic;
• Polymer self-adhesive materials;
• Polyethylene laid on prepared ground
• Bituminous mastics;
• Polymer mastics;
• Cement waterproofing mortars in the form of a screed on the ground;
• Bulk waterproofing made of crushed stone (gravel) impregnated with bitumen;
• Asphalt concrete.

From this list, in private housing construction, the first three points are practically used.

Sub-floor

The sub-floor acts as a damper between the floor screed and the subfloor. In theory, it is made from options (or / or):

• Sand layer 60 mm thick;
• Layer of gravel (crushed stone) 80 mm;
• Concrete 100 mm thick.

For garage construction, concrete underlays are practiced. Such an underlying layer is called rigid and is performed:

• Monolithic concrete;
• Reinforced concrete;
• Reinforced concrete;
• From SFB (steel fiber concrete)
• From SFBZh (steel fiber reinforced concrete);

Where the class of concrete must be at least B22.5.

Class B22.5 concrete

At home, concrete of class B22.5, concrete grade M300 is "prepared" as follows (read concrete grade):

• Cement M400 (cement: sand crushed stone) 1: 1.9: 3.7 (kg) /// 1: 1.7: 3.2 (liter)
• Cement M500 (cement: sand: crushed stone) 1: 2.4: 4.3 (kg) /// 1: 2.2: 3.7 (liter)

The price of a cubic meter of ready-mixed concrete B22.5 in the Moscow region is about 2700 (gravel) - 2950 (granite) rubles. For a garage of 3 by 6 meters, you need 1.8 -2.0 cubic meters of concrete, without the device of driveways.

Screed

If you do not need to cover communications, close the layer of thermal insulation, then the floor screed in the garage, as a separate element of the floor structure, is not needed.

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Garage floor covering

The next structural element of the garage floor is the floor covering. It can be done:

• Concrete B 22.5 25 mm thick;
• Made of DSP mortar with a thickness of 30 mm (concrete B 30);
• Cement-concrete slabs 30 mm;
• Mosaic concrete slabs 30 mm;
• Xylolite 20 mm;
• Ceramic acid-resistant plates 30-35 mm;
• Bulk polymer floor 4 mm;
• Laying ceramic floor tiles and porcelain stoneware on floors with an average intensity of mechanical impact according to the joint venture not allowed.

It is worth noting that in a "home" garage, special rubber slabs and other covering material can become a floor covering, which is described in the article How to cover a concrete floor in a garage.

How to make a concrete floor in a garage with your own hands

We consider the option that the garage is a part of the house, its extension and is combined with the house by a common foundation, or a variant of the garage, as a separate structure on a strip foundation.

Stage 1. Preparation of the base (soil).

Works included:

• Removal of the grass layer of the soil.
• Backfilling (return) soil to a level above the level on the street.
• Compaction of soil.

Stage 2. Tamping the base with rubble.

Covering the base with a layer of rubble. Crushed stone ramming into the ground by 40 mm.

Stage 3. Sand cushion for the convenience of laying the waterproofer (optional).

If polyethylene of 2 layers of 200 microns is chosen as a waterproofing agent, then a sand cushion can be made for its safe laying. The pillow needs to be tamped.

Stage 4. Waterproofing.

Waterproofing is carried out over the entire garage area with polyethylene or roll waterproofing material with a 30 cm approach to the foundation.

Step 5. Perimeter damper.

Along the perimeter of the garage, along the foundation, 20-30 cm strips of solid insulation with a thickness of 20-30 mm are laid.

Stage 6. Formwork for concrete.

To prevent the concrete from flowing out into the street, a blocking formwork is made.

Stage 5. Concreting the floor with reinforcement.

Reinforcement is carried out over the entire area of ​​the garage, with a mesh with cells of 10 by 10 cm. The mesh should be raised 3 cm from the surface.

Concreting is done from the far corner of the garage towards the exit. If the concrete is mixed by hand, it is better to divide the garage into sections.

Arrangement of beacons for the concrete floor of the garage not necessary... The concrete is leveled with a homemade wide board squeegee. Concrete layer thickness from 100 mm. For paving slabs, a thickness of 100 mm is sufficient, for a self-leveling polymer floor, the thickness of the concrete floor is from 120 mm.

For evenness of leveling, beacon boards are attached to the garage walls or strips of insulation are laid at the desired level.

Stage 6. Concrete care. 28 days of curing.

For the first three days, the concrete is wetted with water and covered with polyethylene. The next 28 days of concrete hardening, a draft-free ventilation mode is observed.

Stage 7. Installation of finishing floor covering

The finish coating of the garage floor is made after the concrete has completely dried and a moisture test has been carried out. As a finishing floor covering in the garage they do:

• Self-leveling polymer floor,
• Laying stone tiles;
• Laying street clinker;
• Make a rubber floor, etc.

Related Articles

• Reinforced concrete floors: liquid and dry hardening technologies

Every owner dreams of having an ideal garage for his car. On the way to achieving this goal, it is necessary to make a high-quality floor, since this is an important point in this structure. Next, we will look at how to properly pour the concrete floor in the garage so that it is reliable and durable.

General information

Like any other construction work, pouring a concrete floor is carried out step by step and consists of the following steps:

• Foundation preparation;
• Installations of beacons;
• Preparation of mortar and concrete pouring.

Of course, it is much easier to seek help from specialists who will make the floor themselves from start to finish. However, before making a decision, you should ask - how much does it cost to fill the floor with concrete in the garage, taking into account the work of the builders?

It is quite possible that having received an answer, you decide to take on this matter on your own, moreover, there is nothing super complicated in this. The only thing is to calculate in advance the required amount of material and make its purchase.

Pouring concrete floor

Preparation of the base

So, the preparation of the foundation consists of the following steps:

• First of all, a layer of sand is laid on the floor and carefully compacted so that it does not subsequently sink. The layer thickness should be at least 15 centimeters.
• Then cover the sand cushion with a layer of waterproofing material. For these purposes, you can use two-layer polyethylene, hydroglass or roofing material. The material should be laid with an overlap of about 5-10 centimeters. In addition, the canvas should be folded onto the walls.
• Next, the floor must be insulated by laying a layer of heat-insulating material on it.... It is best to use extruded polystyrene foam plates with a thickness of 5-10 centimeters for these purposes. In case the garage is not heated, it will decrease as a result of frequent freeze-thaw cycles.

In the photo - laying insulation

• After that, the insulation is covered with another waterproofing layer.
• Further along the perimeter of the walls, you need to fix the damper tape, which will create a temperature gap.
• The next step is to perform the reinforcement. To do this, lay a mesh on the floor with cells of 15-20 cm. The thickness of the reinforcement should be about 8 mm.

Additional reinforcement can be made in the parking area. The armature must be suspended, so stones or wooden blocks must be placed under the net.

Advice! Often there may be an old, dilapidated concrete layer on the floor. It is desirable to remove it. For this, cutting reinforced concrete with diamond wheels and crushing old material with a jackhammer is suitable.

Installation of beacons

It is better to do the floor in the garage at an angle, which must be taken into account when installing beacons. At the entrance, it should be 5-10 centimeters lower than at the opposite wall. In this case, the melted snow in winter will quickly drain to the exit.

So, the instructions for installing beacons are as follows:

• First of all, you need to install two extreme beacons. To do this, it is necessary to lay doughy lumps of gypsum mortar and drown the lighthouse profile in them. The distance from the lighthouse to the zero (highest) point should be about 7 cm.If the machine is heavy, then a thicker tie can be made - 10 cm.
• Then, between the beacons, you should pull the threads and check their location with a building level. If they are deviated from the horizontal, one of the lighthouses must be slightly drowned in the solution.
• Further, focusing on the threads, you need to install the rest of the beacons. The step between them must be less than the length of the rule.

Solution preparation

To fill the floor in the garage with your own hands, you can use concrete of the M200 or M300 brand. As a rule, the solution is performed in the following ratio - one part of cement to three parts of water. At the same time, crushed stone and half a liter of water are added to the mixture.

The mortar should not be too liquid, as it will flow down and the rubble will remain on the surface. As a result, the concrete will be uneven.

To prepare the solution, you should use a wooden box with a metal bottom. To facilitate and speed up the process, it is advisable to use a concrete mixer. To increase the strength of the material, in or a plasticizer.

Advice! Concrete can be bought ready-made, which will greatly simplify the workflow. However, in this case, its price will be much higher than with self-production.

Screed technology

After all the preparatory procedures have been completed, you can proceed to the main stage:

• The concrete floor in the garage is poured from the highest point.
• When the concrete reaches the level of the beacons, the mortar should be leveled with a rule, starting from the far wall towards the exit. The tool should be guided along the guide rails, while removing the excess concrete. It is necessary to fill in one pass.
• After the entire floor has been leveled, cover it with plastic wrap for several hours.
• When the concrete sets, you need to grout with a small one. If the garage area is large, then it will be difficult to do the work manually, so it is more advisable to rent a trowel. In the process of performing this operation, you can trim all the irregularities and trim flaws.

Advice! In some cases, after pouring the concrete, it may be necessary to make a hole in the floor to bring communications. In such a situation, diamond drilling of holes in concrete is used.

After the floor is poured, the first few days you need to moisten its surface with water at intervals of 10-12 hours. This will allow the concrete to dry evenly. Otherwise, it may crack.

Complete drying of the solution occurs after 28 hours. After this period of time, you need to apply a thin layer of mortar to the floor, which is leveled with a float.

This procedure is called screed ironing. It can be replaced by painting the surface with a special paint composition for concrete.

This completes the process of pouring the floor.

Output

As we can see, all the operations described above can be performed by every home master. If the given technology is followed exactly, then the garage will acquire a reliable floor that will last for many years, especially if it is insulated ().

You can get more information on this topic from the video in this article.

The garage must, in any weather, as well as at any time of the year, fulfill its main function - to ensure the safety and protection of the machine. In the second paragraph, everything that makes up the garage is involved - the roof, walls, and most importantly - the floor, which must meet many parameters, including:

• strength (physical activity is a frequent case for such floors);
• chemical inertness to various types of chemicals;
• moisture resistance (if the roof leaks or fluid leaks from the machine itself);
• wear resistance (the floor in such buildings is often exploited).

The most successful choice in this matter is a concrete floor that meets all these parameters and has many advantages - resistance to physical and chemical influences. However, this choice has its drawbacks: due to the long solidification of concrete, namely, the gaining of the main percentage of its strength in a week, and subsequent hardening in a month, the process of bringing the floor to mind is delayed, which is not always beneficial for people building a garage.

SP 31-105-2002. 5. Foundations, basement walls, floors on the ground

The accepted standard garage floor thickness is 130-150 mm. What is included in such coverage? From the bottom to the top are the required layers that make up the garage floor:

• soil / gravel (layer thickness up to 0.8 mm);
• sand (layer thickness is approximately 10 mm);
• polyethylene film or a special polyethylene membrane (the thickness is insignificant, for this reason it is not taken into account in the calculations);
• reinforced concrete layer (the standard thickness of this layer is 20-30 mm);
• waterproofing + insulation + films (in particular, thermal insulation usually has a thickness of 10 mm);
• finishing reinforced screed (not taken into account due to insignificant thickness).

Concrete floor pouring process

How to make a garage floor. Layer thickness

Initial stage - gravel and sand

The bottom of the future floor pouring area must be compressed and leveled as much as possible, for which a number of columns are driven into the ground with a distance of one meter to identify the desired level of gravel, and then, as it falls asleep, stones are carefully pressed and removed, which contribute to subsequent irregularities. The gravel layer is followed by an even layer of sand, with a pre-calculated width.

Waterproofing - a necessary layer

Before laying a concrete base, you need to take care of the waterproofing of the floor - an important function, especially for a garage. The best way to provide protection against moisture are special membranes or their analogs, overlapping polyethylene films and glued together with a polyvinyl chloride tape. In order to avoid subsequent unevenness, as in the previous stage, the layer, namely the film, is carefully leveled and smoothed.

The main and most important part of building a floor is pouring concrete mortar.

Before pouring, it is necessary to make reinforcement - the process of strengthening the metal mesh in order to improve the strength and resistance to external loads of the floor. The process of applying directly to the concrete layer is carried out by installing rails and subsequent pouring. It is also necessary to pre-select the desired brand and the desired subspecies. The composition of the solution for pouring a concrete layer includes the following materials:

• sand
• cement;
• water.

It is important to remember that after pouring the floor must dry for at least a month; he also needs ventilation and humidification.

The process of creating floor insulation

It is necessary to insulate the floor before carrying out the final screed - the best and most accepted material for this work - expanded polystyrene (Penoplex) and the next layer of film for reliability.

Styrofoam	Polyurethane foam	Min. plate
Open honeycomb structure	There are both open and closed honeycomb structures	Fibers randomly arranged in vertical and horizontal directions
Poor moisture permeability	Almost moisture-tight	Almost does not absorb moisture
Lightweight material	Lightweight material	Medium-light material
Average strength	Low strength	Low / medium strength
Average compressive strength	Low compressive strength	Low to medium compressive strength ratings
Non-toxic	Non-toxic, emits carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide at a temperature of 500 degrees	Non-toxic
	Not suitable for heavy load use	Not all boards are suitable for high load applications
Subject to decay	Durable enough	Durable enough
Exposed to the influence of ultraviolet radiation	Virtually unaffected by ultraviolet radiation	Sufficient UV resistance

Name	Dimension	Penoplex 31S	Penoplex 31	Penoplex 35	Penoplex 45S	Penoplex 45
Density	kg / m³	28,0-30,5	25,0-30,5	28,0-37,0	35,0-40,0	38,1-45,0
Compressive strength at 10% linear deformation, not less	MPa (kgf / cm²; t / m²)	0,20 (2; 20)	0,20 (2; 20)	0,25 (2,5; 25)	0,41 (4,1; 41)	0,50 (5; 50)
Static bending strength, not less	MPa	0,25	0,25	0,4	0,4	0,4-0,7
Elastic modulus	MPa	15	15	15	18	18
Water absorption in 24 hours, no more	% by volume	0,4	0,4	0,4	0,4	0,2
Water absorption in 30 days	% by volume	0,5	0,5	0,5	0,5	0,4
Fire resistance category	group	G4	D1	D1	G4	G4
Thermal conductivity coefficient at (25 ± 5) ° С	W / (m ° K)	0,030	0,030	0,030	0,030	0,030
Vapor permeability coefficient	mg / (m h Pa)	0,008	0,008	0,007	0,007	0,007
Specific heat, s	kJ / (kg ° K)	1,45	1,45	1,45	1,4	1,4
Operating temperature range	° C	-50…+75	-50…+75	-50…+75	-50…+75	-50…+75
Width	mm	600	600	600	600	600
Length	mm	1200	1200	1200	2400	2400
Thickness	mm	30*; 40; 50; 60; 80; 100	30*; 40; 50; 60; 80; 100 * - for PENOPLEX boards type 31 (type 31 C) with a thickness of 30 mm, compressive strength is not less than - 0.15 MPa	20**; 30***; 40; 50; 60; 80; 100 ** - for PENOPLEX type 35 plates with a thickness of 20 mm, compressive strength is not less than - 0.18 MPa *** - for PENOPLEX type 35 boards with a thickness of 30 mm, compressive strength is not less than - 0.20 MPa	40; 50; 60; 80; 100	40; 50; 60; 80; 100

Final layer - floor screed

Leveling poured concrete

Different combination - does it change the concept?

In different instructions, you can see different versions of laying this type of floor - in most cases the only difference between these theories is the sequence of the stages of laying the floor. For some, their eyes widen, but in their heads there is one and the same, very adequate question - is there a fundamental difference between the numerous options for the sequence of styling layers and is there a most successful option?

The answer is simple - consistency doesn't matter much. It is much more important to adhere to the norms of the layer thickness of one level or another.

Changing the floor thickness due to the concrete layer and the consequences of this manipulation

With a decrease in the thickness of the concrete layer in the general floor structure, the following calculations are ultimately obtained: the thickness of the concrete layer in terms of the ratio of each layer and the total thickness is less than the sum of all other layers, which, in fact, are the protection and strengthening of the concrete floor. An increase in the concrete layer will not damage the overall concept - on the contrary, it will increase the level of reliability of such a floor. But at the same time, the following parameter is also important - between the ground located before the garage and the garage floor there should be either a uniform descent or a slight gap. Otherwise, entering and leaving the garage will harm both the wheels, the body and the entire car as a whole, and the floor - this design cannot stand such experiments for a long time and, sooner or later, will begin to crack and collapse.

Thus, observing the technology, you can get an excellent result that will delight its owner for many years.

Video - Floor in the garage. The thickness of the concrete floor in the garage

The comfort of being in the garage largely depends on whether the floor is properly made. It must be durable, reliable, moisture resistant. Not many materials meet these requirements. One of the most common is a concrete garage floor. In order for it to perform its functions, it must be done correctly. How - in detail, step by step, we will describe in this article.

Preparation of the base

The concrete floor in the garage is made on the ground. But most often the soil itself is not a sufficiently reliable and dense base, therefore, a base device is required - cushions of crushed stone and sand. Preliminary and obligatory work - removal of the fertile layer, up to clean soil. With a fertile layer, organic matter and most of the microorganisms are removed, and in a clean soil they contain a minimum amount.

The first stage in the construction of the concrete floor in the garage is the removal of the fertile layer

Zero level mark

As a result, you get a foundation pit of some depth. Crushed stone and sand will be poured into it, but in order to understand whether its depth is sufficient or excessive, it is necessary to decide on the "zero" level of the floor. Convenient if the floor is flush with the threshold of the gate. Often they do it just below the threshold, but then you will have to somehow drain the water, and it will certainly be, if not in spring-autumn, in winter, from the melted snow, for sure.

Mark the zero floor level along the perimeter of the walls. The most convenient way to do this is with. Turn on the device to display a horizontal plane, set it at the desired level and draw along the beam.

If there is no laser level, use a water level. It is not so convenient with him: you have to transfer the mark many times along all four walls. These marks are connected by a straight line, instead of a ruler, you can use a bubble level, at the same time you can check if you have put all the marks correctly.

Calculation of the thickness of the ASG layers

As a result of these works, we have a foundation pit and a ground level floor. Now you can calculate how thick the layers are needed to reach the desired height. It is necessary to proceed from the following dimensions:

• the optimal thickness of the concrete floor in the garage (if there is a car or lighter vehicle) - 10 cm;
• minimum crushed stone layer thickness - 10 cm;
• sand - at least 5 cm;

In total, it turns out that the pit should be no shallower than 25 cm deep. And this is without taking into account the flooring. If you simply treat the concrete floor with impregnation or paint, then no additional centimeters are required, for any other coating you add the required thickness.

Having received a specific figure, you can plan the amount of sand and gravel. If the layers are very large, you can fill in and tamp the soil (but not the fertile layer) to the bottom. If the depth of the pit is not enough, we take out some more rock.

Marks can be made on the walls of the garage by which it will be possible to control the thickness of the layers. With a small garage width - 2 meters or so - these marks are sufficient. If the garage is wider, put a few more stakes in the middle and mark them as well. It is clear that all the marks must lie in the same plane. Again, it is convenient to do this with a level. Another way is to take a flat bar or board and attach it to the marked marks. Put a level on top of the plank / board. If everything is set correctly, the bubble will be in the middle.

If you plan to make a hole in the garage, it's time to dig a foundation pit under it. If the pit is with brick walls, you can immediately fill it with a concrete floor. While you are pouring under concrete in the garage, it will gain the required margin of safety and it will be possible to lay out the walls. They can be driven out after filling the cushion of rubble and sand on the floor.

Backfill materials

For a normal concrete floor in the garage, it is better to take not gravel, but crushed stone. Gravel, with its rounded edges, will never be compacted to the extent required. And if the base under the concrete is unstable, even a thick reinforced slab will burst. Therefore, we import crushed stone, medium and fine fractions. Average 60-70%, the rest is small.

There are no special requirements for the quality of the sand for the pillow. It is important that it is free of clay inclusions, but it can (and should) be sieved before laying.

Making a pillow under the concrete floor

The first step is to level the bottom of the pit. We remove the irregularities, fill up the depressions, bring the level to the horizon. Do not think that the concrete floor in the garage can be made with violations. You can do it, but then the stove will crack, you will have to redo it.

Now we take a vibrating platform (you can rent it) or a manual rammer and compact the soil. Along the way, leveling the plane again. When the soil is compacted, rubble can be poured. They do not fill up the entire volume at once - it is not normal to tamp 10 cm. The maximum layer is 5 cm, but 3-4 is better. We fill in the necessary part, distribute, level (with a rake), achieving approximately the same thickness. We take a rammer or vibrating plate and ram.

This tamping of rubble is very important when installing a concrete floor in a garage - a certain amount of rubble is driven into the ground. As a result, it becomes even more dense, the bearing capacity increases, and the possibility of subsidence is excluded. Tamping is sufficient if you leave no marks when you step on the surface. In the same way, all portions of crushed stone are rammed, bringing to the required thickness.

Sand is poured onto the compacted rubble. It is also divided into parts of 2-3 cm. The peculiarity of tamping sand: it must be moistened, they also say - spill. Wet sand is compacted, again focusing on the layers.

Now you can start forcing the walls of the pit, if there is one. They are taken to a level with a clean floor or even a little higher so that you can wash the car right in the garage without fear of water getting into it.

Damper clearance

Concrete flooring on the ground is often referred to as "floating". This is because it is made disconnected from the walls of the building. In this case, the walls and floor can sink or rise independently of each other, while maintaining integrity.

So that the concrete floor in the garage is not connected to the walls, a damper tape (sold in hardware stores) is laid around the perimeter or thin sheets of foam (10 mm thick) are cut into strips. The width of the strips is 12-15 cm - they should protrude slightly above the finishing of the floor. The excess damper height is then cut flush with the floor.

Waterproofing a concrete floor in a garage

The concrete itself is not afraid of moisture, high humidity is harmful to the body of the car, as well as to things and equipment, of which there are a lot of things in the garage. The choice of materials for waterproofing depends on how close the groundwater is and how high it can rise in the season.

If the groundwater is high, no special waterproofing measures can be taken, but a dense plastic film should be laid on the sand (with a density of 250 microns, reinforced, or not). in this case, the film is more needed so that moisture from the concrete does not go into the sand, which cannot be allowed. With a lack of moisture, concrete will not gain the required strength and will crumble.

With a high level of groundwater, it is better to take a more dense and reliable waterproofing - waterproofing or its analogues. In any case, the sheets of the film are overlapped - they overlap each other by 10-15 cm. To minimize the possibility of water penetration, the joints are glued with double-sided tape, you can twice (at the beginning of the joint and at the end).

Waterproofing is installed on the walls, above the damper tape. There she is temporarily fixed. Once the concrete has been poured and set, it can be trimmed.

Reinforcement

Since the loads are supposed to be serious, the concrete floor in the garage is reinforced. For passenger cars, you can use a ready-made mesh made of wire 7-8 mm in diameter, the size of the cage is 15 cm. To obtain a single reinforcing system, the pieces of mesh are stacked overlapping each other on one cage. The two nets are tied to one another with plastic ties or special knitting wire.

One more point - the mesh should be located in the thickness of the concrete, approximately in the middle. It would be wrong to simply lay it on the film - the metal does not corrode inside the concrete only if it is at a depth of at least 3 cm.In order for the concrete floor in the garage to serve for a long time and not crack, the mesh is raised above the waterproofing by 3-6 cm. For this there are special stands, but more often they use halves of bricks. They are just 6 cm thick. Place them under the reinforcing mesh so that it does not bend too much.

Installation of beacons

To keep the garage floor level, it must be leveled. It is more convenient to do this using a special long bar, which is called the "rule" (the stress on the letter "I" - from the word edit). This bar is supported on level bars set at the desired level. They are called lighthouses.

Any long and even objects can be used as beacons. These can be pipes, bars, special beacons that are sold in hardware stores. They must be aligned with the concrete slab level mark on the walls.

Beacons are placed from the far wall, towards the one in which the doors are arranged (most often it turns out that along the long wall). The installation step is 25-30 cm narrower than the length of the rule. If the rule is 150 cm long, the distance between the beacons should be 120-125 cm. About 30 cm retreat from the wall, put the first beacon, then others with a given distance.

They are usually installed on islands of a densely mixed solution. The slide is laid out a little higher than necessary, the lighthouse is pressed into it so that it is at the desired level.

When installing beacons, you can make a slight slope of the concrete floor towards the doors (0.5-1 cm per meter). In this case, the water will flow by gravity from the floor to the street. Just note that in this case more concrete is required - you have to lift up the edge of the floor farthest from the entrance, but this is compensated by the ease of use.

The next day after pouring, the beacons are removed, the voids are filled with a solution and leveled at one level with the previously filled floor.

Pouring the concrete floor in the garage

The concrete grade for the garage floor is M250. Its characteristics are more than sufficient in terms of strength and frost resistance. Due to the fact that the thickness of the slab is large, a large volume of mortar is required even in a small garage. Let's estimate: a small garage measuring 4 * 6 m with a concrete floor thickness will require 4 m * 6 m * 0.1 m = 2.4 cubic meters. Given that you need a slope, this will be all 3 cubes. If you do it with your own hands in one day, you need to use two - one will not cope. A decent team is required to work.

There should be one person on each concrete mixer. This is provided that all the components are right there and they will also load them into the pear. If the components need to be brought up, that's two more people. Plus two people have to carry the concrete to the place of its laying and one - to level it. It turns out a considerable team. You will have to work with such a composition all day. Even if the assistants are free, they need to be fed and watered. It is unlikely that this alignment will help save a significant amount of money compared to ordering ready-made concrete from the factory. Unless you will work with one hand, filling the floor in parts. This is also possible, but it can threaten with cracks at the joints of the floor sections filled in one day. You can reduce the chance of such cracks by removing the cement laitance that forms on the surface with a metal brush.

If you decide to order concrete from a mixer, it is worth installing a receiving chute that will direct the flow of concrete to the center of the garage. From the center it is already easy to distribute it in all corners, and then stretch it with the rule. To facilitate the leveling of concrete and increase its grade, immediately after preliminary distribution, the concrete is treated with a submersible concrete vibrator. At the same time, air bubbles immediately come out, the concrete becomes more fluid and fills all cavities by itself. Lighthouses will be needed only for orientation, and, perhaps, partial alignment.

Curing

After pouring the concrete, if it is not very hot outside, you can simply close the garage doors. If there is a window, it must be covered so that the sun's rays do not fall on the concrete. If it is too dry and hot outside, cover the concrete with plastic wrap or damp burlap.

The stove should be watered daily for a week. It is more convenient to do this on burlap - you can water the burlap without much suffering with relatively small streams, and it will give moisture to the concrete. If the concrete floor in the garage is covered with a film, it is removed before watering, then stretched again. When watering, in this case, you need to make sure that the drops are small - you need a nozzle with a large number of holes. In any case, the degree of watering is to a uniformly wet state (determined by the dark gray color of the surface), but without large puddles.

Insulated concrete floor in the garage

There are two options - to insulate the already poured slab, fill the screed from above (structure in the figure below), or to insulate immediately, placing it under the main slab.

When choosing the second option, the insulation is laid on top of the waterproofing layer, a reinforcing mesh is placed on it. The rest of the process of pouring the concrete floor in the garage is similar, only it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the insulation when calculating the depth of the pit.

As a heater for this case, it is recommended to use extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) with a density of at least 35 kg / m 3. It has very good characteristics, it can withstand heavy loads, does not absorb and does not allow water or steam to pass through. So it is also an additional vapor barrier.

To be sure that the insulation does not sell under the wheels, it makes sense to lay a layer on top of it. This is a non-woven membrane that is used in road construction. Its function is load distribution, just what we need.

The minimum thickness of EPS is at least 5 cm, better - 8 cm. It is better to lay it in two layers, shifting the seams when laying - in order to isolate the floor from the ground as best as possible.

When building a garage, special attention must be paid to the floor. It can withstand heavy loads on a daily basis and protects the underside of the car from corrosion, so it must be strong and dry. These are the characteristics of a concrete coating. To fill the concrete floor in the garage with your own hands, you must follow the rules and subtleties of installation, otherwise the coating will quickly deform and lose its properties.

Device Requirements

Before proceeding with the construction of a garage, it is necessary to study the requirements for the construction of a concrete floor:

1. First of all, it must be durable and reliable, withstand the weight of not only a car, but also a heavy van. In addition to vehicles, racks are installed in the garage, tools, spare parts are stored. Therefore, they make it durable. Its thickness should not be less than 20 mm.
2. In case of mechanical damage, the floor should not collapse, crumble, deform.
3. Often solvents, fuels and lubricants, paints that are fire hazardous are stored in the garage. If they hit the surface, they damage the material, they can ignite, so the concrete screed must be resistant to chemical influences and be fireproof.
4. When it is freezing outside, it is difficult to maintain the temperature at the same level inside the building, even if there is a heating system. Therefore, it must withstand significant temperature changes.
5. The floor must be durable. Then the repair work of the floor covering will be required no earlier than in 10-15 years.

What brand of concrete is better to choose

Concrete can be prepared by hand using a concrete mixer or purchased ready-made. When doing it independently, the grade of concrete is selected according to the SNiP table:

Concrete grade	Coating type	Coating thickness, mm	Curing time
M200-M350	Reinforced screed	50-70	Day
	Fiber concrete	40
М400-М500	Reinforced sand concrete	40	8 days
М500-М550	Reinforced concrete	40	8 days

For light vehicles, experts recommend making a 7 cm thick reinforced screed. The shock-absorbing cushion is not included in the calculation. Apply a primer on top - 2 layers. This coverage can be renewed every 6 months.

Pouring of concrete solution is carried out on the ground, but since such a base is unreliable, a sand-crushed stone cushion is required. The top fertile soil layer contains organic matter and a large number of microorganisms, therefore, before laying a pillow, it must be removed to clean soil. This will help minimize soil subsidence. You will get a shallow pit.

To determine how deep the excavation should be, you first need to set a zero floor mark. The floor can be located below the threshold of the gate or at the same level with it. If the installation is carried out below the threshold level, then the base is equipped with a drainage system. Otherwise, during spring floods, the garage will be flooded. Work order:

• a zero level mark is made along the perimeter of the walls using a level or laser level;
• lines are drawn along a ray set at the required height.

Instead of a laser device, you can use a hydro level. The mark is moved several times along all the walls, then the points are connected with a straight line. It is not as convenient to work with this device as with a laser one.

Calculation of the thickness of the ASG layers

To reach the required height, it is necessary to correctly calculate the thickness of the layer of sand and gravel cushion. For the manufacture of a floor for light transport, the following dimensions are adhered to: the most acceptable concrete layer - 10 cm, sand - 50 mm, crushed stone - 10 cm.

Based on these calculations:

1. The depth of the pit should be 25 cm or more. A few centimeters are added to these dimensions if additional coverage is laid on the concrete floor.
2. When treating the surface layer with impregnation or paint, the addition of centimeters is not required.
3. According to the figures obtained, the exact volume of sand and crushed stone is purchased.
4. The thickness of the backfilled layer is controlled using marks applied to the walls. If the width of the building exceeds 2 m, additional stakes are placed in the center, on which marks are made. All marks are leveled.

At this stage of laying, a pit is dug under a pit, if there is one on the garage project. The bottom of the pit is poured with concrete, creating a floor. The walls in the pit are laid out with bricks after the mortar has solidified and the sand and gravel cushion in the garage is backfilled.

Backfill materials

In order for the concrete floor in the garage to be of high quality, experts recommend using 70% of medium-sized crushed stone and 30% of fine gravel. The gravel layer cannot be used as it has rounded edges. Because of this, the base turns out to be wobbly, which threatens the screed cracking. The sand should be clean, without clay impurities. It is sieved before filling.

Making a pillow under the concrete floor

Before laying the pillow, the bottom of the pit is carefully leveled. There should be no depressions or bumps. The soil is compacted with a manual rammer or vibrating plate.

Step by step guide:

1. The first to fall asleep is a layer of rubble, which is also tamped. It will not be possible to tamp a 10 cm layer of crushed stone qualitatively, so it is covered with parts of 4-5 cm.
2. The first part is evenly distributed over the entire area, then rammed. In this case, half of the material will enter the ground, compacting it. Thanks to this, the likelihood of subsidence is excluded, the bearing capacity of the structure increases.
3. By the same principle, the rest of the rubble is filled up. If there are no traces of a person on the surface, it means that the rammer is made with high quality.
4. Sand is poured over the rubble, also dividing into several parts. Moisten it before tamping.

Then proceed to forcing the walls of the pit. The walls are brought out one level or higher than the final floor. This will allow you to wash the car inside the garage without fear of flooding the pit with water.

Damper clearance

Occasionally the walls and floor will sink or rise. So that at this moment the screed does not crack and retains its integrity, a damper tape is placed between the concrete and the wall. Due to this, during installation, a gap is obtained that allows the entire structure to not be pulled along with the wall shrinkage. Because of this, it received the second name "floating". Instead of tape, you can use thin foam 10 mm thick, having previously cut the sheets into strips 15 cm wide. If part of the tape will protrude above the finish, cut it off.

Waterproofing a concrete floor in a garage

High humidity for concrete is not harmful, but vehicles and other things stored in the garage are threatened with corrosion. The material for waterproofing is selected depending on the level of the location of groundwater:

1. In order for concrete to retain its strength and not crumble, it needs moisture. When located deeply, it is absorbed into the sand. To prevent this from happening, a polyethylene film with a density of more than 250 microns is laid on top of the sand.
2. If the water table is high, the garage can become flooded during spring floods. Therefore, it is necessary to use a thicker film. Hydroisol or any other analogue will do. To reduce the penetration of water inside to a minimum, the film canvases are overlapped, and the joints are sealed with double-sided tape. The material is taken out along the wall, temporarily fixed above the damper tape. The excess part is cut off after the concrete has completely hardened.

Reinforcement

The concrete floor needs to be reinforced as it is constantly under heavy load. For installation, you will need a ready-made mesh with a cage size of 15 cm and a wire diameter of 7-8 mm.

Installation method:

1. The mesh is laid in pieces overlapping each other with a distance of 1 cell.
2. The pieces are tied with wire or plastic clamps. It turns out a single reinforcing system.
3. The mesh should not be laid directly on the foil, it should be located in the middle of the concrete. If the depth is less than 3 cm, the mesh may corrode.
4. Using bricks or special supports, it is raised 4-6 cm above the waterproofing layer. This arrangement will prevent the screed from cracking, extending the life of the screed.

Installation of beacons

With the help of beacons and building rules, the leveling of the concrete screed is done. Lighthouses can be purchased in the store or made from pipes, bars. Installation rules:

1. The lighthouses are placed parallel to the marks that are made on the walls for the concrete slab.
2. A thick solution is kneaded, from which the slides are laid out. Beacons are pressed into them. The work begins to be done along the wall opposite the doors, gradually moving towards the exit.
3. The distance between the beacons must be less than 25 cm (the length of the rule). Installation of the first lighthouse is done at a distance of 30 cm from the wall.

In order for the water to drain from the floor onto the street on its own, the concrete pavement must have a slight slope. Lighthouses are removed 24 hours after flooding. The resulting recesses are poured with concrete and leveled with the floor.

Pouring the concrete floor in the garage

Given the thick slab and the slope, it will take a lot of mix to put concrete in your garage floor. M250 grade concrete has sufficiently strong characteristics and has frost-resistant properties:

1. For a garage measuring 4 × 6 m, you will need about 3 m³ of mortar.
2. Sand and cement (in proportions of 1: 3 or 1: 4) are loaded into a concrete mixer, water is added and mixed thoroughly. The finished mixture hardens in 2 hours, so concreting is carried out quickly.
3. The base is poured with a mixture, and excess air is removed using a deep vibrator. It is lowered at different points of the screed until the cement milk appears on the surface.
4. Then leveled with a long wooden strip.
5. In the event of pits and other imperfections, additional pouring of the solution is required. Then the surface is re-leveled.

To make the foundation monolithic, all the work is done in 1 approach.

Insulated concrete floor in the garage

The concrete floor in the garage can be insulated in 2 ways: lay the insulation under the slab or on top, filling it with a screed. Installation under the slab is done as follows:

1. Extruded polyester is able to withstand heavy loads, has good vapor and waterproofing properties, so it is chosen for work. The density of the material should not be less than 35 kg / m³.
2. It is laid on a waterproofing layer, a reinforcing mesh is mounted on top. You can lay a layer of geotextile under the mesh. It evenly distributes the load over the entire surface and does not allow the insulation to be pressed through.
3. In order to more reliably isolate the floor from the ground, installation is carried out with an offset of the seams. The material is folded in 2 layers. The minimum thickness should be 5 cm.

After laying, concrete is poured.

Curing

Concrete pavement will last longer if you follow the maintenance rules:

1. The sun's rays should not hit the concrete, therefore, if there is a window in the garage, it must be covered.
2. The concrete is covered with wet burlap in hot and dry weather. The burlap is moistened with water every day for 7 days. The moisture in it will saturate the concrete.
3. If polyethylene is used as a covering material, then it is removed, the surface is poured with water, then covered again. For watering, use a nozzle with many small holes.

A dark gray shade of the surface means that the concrete is sufficiently saturated with moisture and watering can be stopped. Puddles must not be allowed to form.