Insulation of the ceiling in the apartment on the top floor. What to do if the apartment is cold

Insulation of an apartment from the inside most often becomes necessary in houses with panel walls since they have insufficient thickness, cool down quickly, the heating system cannot fully cope with its tasks, and the temperature in the premises drops. How to insulate a wall inside an apartment, and what methods and materials to use - this question arises before most homeowners in concrete high-rise buildings. External walls in such houses become cold especially quickly, and often, due to temperature changes, they begin to damp and become moldy.

Sometimes, when there is such an opportunity, the thermal insulation of the walls is carried out from the outside, since this — more effective method keeping warm. However, this option is very expensive due to the complexity of its implementation, and it is impossible to independently carry out such events, without using special equipment, if the apartment is located above the first or second floor. Therefore, a decision is made to insulate the walls from the inside, to the detriment of the total usable area. But, be that as it may, a warm apartment with a slightly smaller area is better than large cold rooms. Internal work may well be done by hand, without the involvement of specialists. The main thing is to choose correct material and have the right tools.

If equipment is installed in the apartment autonomous heating, then wall insulation will help to save energy resources, which are very expensive today.

Disadvantages of internal insulation

Compared to the external thermal insulation of walls, the internal insulation of an apartment has its own rather significant disadvantages:

The insulated wall does not accumulate or retain heat, and heat losses are from 8 to 15%.

At internal insulation The "dew point" may be inside the insulation, which leads to dampness

The "dew point" with internal thermal insulation is located between the insulation and the wall, sometimes - inside the insulation layer. This leads to the formation of condensation and the appearance of mold colonies. .
An incorrectly insulated wall from the inside will freeze all the time, and this inevitably causes irreversible destructive processes in the thickness of the material over time.

Correct insulation

So that condensation does not form under the thermal insulation layer from temperature drops in winter period, and also, as a consequence, no mold spots appeared on the walls, all technological recommendations for insulation must be carefully followed concrete walls from inside the apartment.

An important element in the structure of the thermal insulation "pie" is a high-quality vapor barrier. It must protect the insulation from moisture penetration, which will allow the entire structure to effectively perform its functions for a long time.

What kind of work is required to achieve this goal?

It is necessary to purchase a vapor barrier film High Quality and waterproof tape for sealing the seams at the joint of its sheets.
For the insulation layer, you need to choose a material that has low vapor permeability. It is desirable that this indicator be lower than the vapor permeability of the wall material. In this case, moisture evaporation will occur towards the street, and not inside the apartment.
When gluing insulation, its surface is completely coated with glue using comb-spatula, and it is very tightly pressed against the surface of the wall, so that even small cavities do not remain between them.
In order to avoid the occurrence of excessively high relative humidity inside the premises, they must be equipped with additional ventilation of natural or forced type. For example, for this, valves are installed on the window frames through which air will enter the room.

Next, you need to accurately calculate required thickness insulation. It will depend on the average daily temperature in the region in winter time... The thickness of the insulating material should not be less than the parameters that were obtained during the calculations, otherwise the steam-thermal balance will be violated.
Before installing the insulation system, the walls must be treated with special primers. They will "cure" the wall, prevent mold colonies from forming on it, and also increase the adhesion when gluing thermal insulation.
Insulation installation can be started only after the wall is completely dry.
Formations of "cold bridges" must not be allowed, which can negate the entire insulation process. The risk of their occurrence is especially great at the joints of walls and ceilings.

What heaters and how are they used?

Cork is excellent natural material for thermal insulation

Such a thermal insulator is made in the form of plates or rolls from the bark of a special type of oak - balsa wood... Therefore, it is an environmentally friendly safe insulation, which is very important for interior decoration premises.

Using high quality material, three problems can be solved at once - these are noise and sound insulation, as well as decoration walls.

An important prerequisite for installation cork cover the evenness of the wall is, therefore, before proceeding with its gluing, it is necessary to carefully prepare the surface. This process is carried out as follows:

The old coating is completely removed from the wall.
Then the entire surface is processed, which will protect the wall from damage by fungus or mold.

The next step is to level the surface.
You can refine the walls and drywall, but in this case, the sheet must be completely missed waterproof glue or polyurethane foam, so that there are no voids left under it. Drywall is firmly pressed against the wall and is additionally fixed anchoring or plastic "fungi".
On a dry wall, you can stick cork material... To do this, use a special glue designed for such purposes.

TO positive qualities material, in addition to its environmental friendliness, low thermal conductivity and good noise absorption, can be attributed to:

Ease of installation of cork wall covering while observing accuracy in work.
Aesthetically attractive respectable look.
The surface of the material is always warm and pleasant to the touch.
A variety of release forms, textured patterns and shades.

Cork is not only an excellent thermal insulator. She will give the room a special decorative effect.

Cork insulation does not have a large thickness, therefore it does not make the area of the room smaller - with this quality it compares favorably with other thermal insulation materials.

Penofol

Penofol, in essence, is a roll of foamed polyethylene with a thickness of 2 to 10 mm, on one side of which it is applied, which contributes to the reflection of heat into the interior of the room.

Penofol - foamed polyethylene foam

Before its installation, the surface is prepared in the same way as for cork.
Penofol can be fixed on smooth walls with construction double-sided tape. Under any circumstances, the material is placed with the foil side in the room. This creates a kind of thermos for efficient heat retention.
Stripes penofol stacked end-to-end. They are glued together with special tape, which also has a foil-coated reflective surface, since the entire coating must be airtight.

On top of the penofol fixed to the wall, a crate made of strips, bars or galvanized metal profiles is installed. This frame has a base for mounting lining or wall cladding drywall sheets... The plasterboard surface can subsequently be covered with plaster, pasted over with wallpaper, or thoroughly putty and sanded, and then painted.
It is very important when installing drywall or lining on the top and bottom of the structure to leave a gap that will serve ventilation hole for air circulation so that moisture does not accumulate.

Despite its small thickness, penofol is an excellent heat and sound insulator. It is used as a separate insulation, but it is quite possible to use it in combination with other materials. It attracts with its simplicity and speed of installation on walls, floors or ceilings, as well as a long service life.

Video: insulation of internal walls with foil material

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

When choosing a material for insulating a dwelling from the inside, you must first inspect all wall surfaces on which the thermal insulation will be installed. If the wall is dry and there are no mold spots on it, then you can start preparing the surface and purchase insulation material... Carrying out such work on an unprepared basis is strictly prohibited. Not only that, such insulation will not give the desired effect - you can thoroughly spoil the apartment atmosphere, make it damp, unhealthy, since the spores of many types of mold or fungus are extremely dangerous to human health, especially for those suffering from chronic respiratory diseases or a predisposition to allergic reactions ...

In general, any of the methods of the apartment presented in the publication from the inside will not require any complex additional equipment, and this one technological process it is quite possible to do it yourself.

Create comfortable conditions for living in an apartment on top floor it will turn out only on condition that the ceiling insulation is carried out with high quality.

Of course, in apartments on the lower floors this can also be useful, but not so much. There can be a lot of methods here, but it is necessary to dwell on the most accessible and simple to implement. Finding such is not so difficult.

Is it worth insulating the ceiling in an apartment on the top floor?

It is on the ceiling that the most serious heat loss occurs when it comes about the apartment on the top floor. Due to the weathering effect, approximately 50% of all heat lost is escaped through this surface. Owners should determine exactly which method is best for them and which material is appropriate for thermal insulation purposes. Otherwise, heat will continue to escape through the ceiling.

It is necessary to dwell on the methods recommended by specialists who have extensive experience in ceiling insulation. It doesn't matter what material is used to decorate the ceiling. The most important thing is to choose the appropriate way to attach the insulation to the surface that acts as a base.

How to insulate the ceiling in the apartment from the inside?

Good thermal insulation can be obtained by applying different materials... In this case, many owners stop at mineral wool, polystyrene or polystyrene foam. There is absolutely cheap option- use thermal insulation foil. It should be borne in mind that the named foam is capable of releasing harmful substances into the air and is easy to burn. Therefore, it is much better to choose instead of it penoplex, which is distinguished by environmental friendliness and fire safety. Although it costs a little more than ordinary polystyrene foam.

Thermal insulation with slab material

Fasten slabs thermal insulation materials on the surface, the easiest way is if you first glue them to the ceiling with glue mastic. After that, the material is grasped with plastic dowels with wide caps. A paint net is attached to the insulation layer, which is then covered with a putty. In the role topcoat can speak here regular paint... It is important to make sure that the masking net is completely recessed into the glue or putty that is used to pre-process the thermal insulation. The finishing effect will be better if the filler is carefully leveled before painting. You can use sandpaper for this.

The described method is quite simple to implement, but also mineral wool for insulation also turns out to be quite effective. Only here it is necessary to take into account that it can be used only in a situation where the ceiling in the room is located quite high. The fact is that as a result of fixing the mineral wool, some part of the space will be "stolen" - about 15-20 cm.

Warming with basalt material

First, it is necessary to clarify that when using mineral wool, it will be necessary to additionally perform a vapor barrier of the insulation. Otherwise, the mineral wool will absorb moisture, and this will lead to a decrease in its thermal insulation qualities. The vapor barrier material is located on both sides. By the way, the same principle is applied when insulating any surface, if basalt heaters are chosen for the work. The insulation layer is usually covered with clapboard or drywall, which are fixed to a pre-assembled lathing.

The sequence of actions for insulating the ceiling looks like this.

1. Preparation of the base. All cracks and cracks are eliminated, primer treatment is carried out.
2. Fixing a vapor barrier material that will prevent the insulation from absorbing moisture from the ceiling.
3. The frame is being installed. Between its elements, the pitch is 60 cm. To create such a lathing, elements are used whose thickness turns out to be no less than the thickness of the mineral wool slabs.
4. The nests between the frame elements are filled with insulation and covered with waterproofing on top.
5. Rough and finishing ceiling. For this, lining, drywall and so on are used.

How to inexpensively insulate the ceiling in a room?

It will be possible to save on ceiling insulation if you choose decorative foam plates for surface finishing. Perhaps the effect of insulation will not be as significant as with other options for thermal insulation. But you don't have to spend too much Money and strength. Another advantage of this approach is that, as a result of its implementation, the ceiling will not “drop” very much. But the final choice still depends on the owner.

Do you have to turn on heaters often because the room does not keep warm? Does moisture collect on the walls in cold but not rainy weather? Formed on the walls dark spots and mold? Is it cold in the apartment in winter, but hot in summer? The floor is so cold that even carpets can't save you? Unfortunately, the tenants of non-insulated apartments on the top floor are familiar with all this. However, do not despair, all of the above problems are being solved. You just need to know how to insulate an apartment on the top floor, which will be discussed in this article.

The solution to this problem must be approached in a comprehensive manner: to insulate the walls, ceiling, floor, windows, doors, to use radiators more rationally central heating.

Introductory information

Each material has its own thermal conductivity - the ability to conduct heat. The lower the value of this parameter, the worse the material conducts heat and, therefore, its thermal insulation qualities are higher. One more important parameter Is the resistance to heat transfer (material thickness (m) / coefficient of thermal conductivity). The thicker the material, the better its thermal insulation properties.

In October 2003, new norms of thermal resistance of enclosing structures (walls, ceilings, windows, etc.) came into force in Russia. Most of the residential buildings erected before the adoption of the existing standards do not meet the new, toughened requirements.

Table No. 1.

Coefficient of thermal conductivity of walls, required thickness

Note. In the table, for simplicity of calculation, a random value of R (resistance to heat transfer) is taken, which is close to the average normalized value for the walls of residential buildings in Moscow and the Moscow region.

Reinforced concrete, concrete, brick are materials that are excellent in their bearing capacity, however, in order to meet modern standards for resistance to heat transfer, they must be 5.7, 5.25 and 2.1 meters thick, respectively. Hardly anyone met panel house with a wall thickness of 5 meters, or a Khrushchev with 2.1-meter walls. Materials with better thermal insulation properties, have less bearing capacity, which does not allow them to be used in the construction of multi-storey buildings. Excellent insulation materials, such as, for example, mineral wool or expanded polystyrene, are not at all construction materials, therefore, even following common sense, it is impossible to build a house out of them.

In order to comply with the norms for the resistance to heat transfer of enclosing structures, developers are forced to erect multi-layer houses, where one layer is load-bearing and the other is heat-insulating. And residents of old houses, in turn, must use modern heaters to minimize heat loss. Warming the premises will make them cozy and comfortable, and will also remove the need to use additional heating devices.

Table No. 2.

The main types of insulation, their characteristics

Characteristics \ Material	Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS)	Styrofoam	Fiberglass	Mineral wool
Thermal conductivity coefficient, W / (m * K)	0,033	0,035	0,039	0,04
Water absorption,% by volume, averaged	No	5	10	7,5
Strength	Excellent mechanical strength	Relative strength	Brittle fibers; shrinks over time and when wet	Shrinks when moistened
Flammability group	G1-G4	G2 – G4	Non-flammable	Non-flammable
Mounting	Ease of installation	Ease of installation		Needed individual means protection
Service life, years	50	Up to 20	Up to 25	Up to 35
Price, rub. m 3	3500–7000	1500–2500	1000–2000	2000–3500
Required thickness at R = 3, mm	99	105	117	120

Despite the high cost, EPS is the most widespread. It is used in external and internal insulation of apartments, houses, attics and basements, ceilings, foundations, roofs, garages and so on.

Wall insulation

Walls in view large area and contact with external environment(outside), contribute to the loss of 20-30% of all heat. The "weak" points of the walls, through which the greatest heat loss occurs, are the seams between outside walls, between outside wall and overlapping (floor, ceiling), corners of premises. Obviously, the residents were especially unlucky. corner apartments on the first and last floors, where heat losses are most significant. However, residents of apartments on the middle floors in the middle of the building are not spared from significant heat loss either. It so happens that the outer walls have hidden defects(through cracks, depressurization of seams, insufficient thickness of heat-insulating material, etc.).

To avoid heat loss through the walls, you can only insulate them. The best option- this is external wall insulation. With such insulation, the outer wall will cease to “heat the street”, but, on the contrary, will accumulate heat. In addition, it will be protected from strong wind, rain, temperature changes (it will not freeze in winter and heat up in summer). It will also save usable space in the apartment. Internal wall insulation will be effective only in the case of layered masonry, otherwise the temperature in the room will rise by only a couple of degrees, and condensation will most likely form on the wall or insulation. With internal insulation, you will also have to transfer the electrical wiring due to freezing of the walls.

Ceiling insulation

Ceiling losses are most significant for residents of apartments on the top floors. Nobody canceled the laws of physics: heavy cold air goes down and light warm- goes up and out.

Weak points: the seam between the wall and the floor, the corners of the room, as well as floor defects. As a rule, these very places are cold bridges.

Typically, in winter, heat loss through the ceiling of an apartment on the top floor is up to 20-30%. If there is a technical floor above the apartment, then the heat loss is, as a rule, less than if the ceiling of the apartment on the top floor is also the roof of the house.

It is better to insulate the ceiling in an apartment on the top floor from the outside. You can do this yourself. If there is a technical floor above the apartment, then you need to insulate that section of the floor of the technical floor, under which the premises of the apartment are located. If there is no additional floor and the ceiling of the apartment is part of the roof, then the roof can be insulated from the outside. They also insulate the ceiling inside the apartments. For this, as a rule, use thermal insulation boards EPS or conventional expanded polystyrene (foam).

Floor insulation

No matter how the physical law works, which states that hot air goes upstairs, floors on the top floors apartment buildings all the same cold. Certainly not like on the first floors, but still it is impossible to get barefoot on the floor - it's cold.

It is easier to insulate the floor than walls or ceilings. For insulation, a variety of insulation materials are used: from expanded clay and wood chips to glass wool and expanded polystyrene. In order to save useful space and ease of installation, EPS is often used for floor insulation.

Considering a "warm floor" system for apartments on the top floor is optional, and sometimes impossible. So, a water heat-insulated floor in the premises multi-storey building with centralized heating is prohibited, and electric is characterized by increased consumption of electricity, and its use as the main heating system is impossible in houses built more than 10-15 years ago.

Central heating

It is often sufficient to fully utilize the central heating resources to insulate an apartment on the top floor. The main task is for everyone possible ways increase the heat transfer of the radiator. Here are some helpful tips:

If all or part of the battery is cold, bleed the air by opening the air valve.
To warm air heated the room, not the walls of the house, you need to put a protective screen with a foil surface (popularly - a reflector) on the wall behind the battery.
The heated air should circulate freely, so do not push furniture close to the radiator, cover it with a curtain or curtains.
The decorative screen installed on the battery must be removed. This will increase heat transfer by up to 20%.

If these measures did not have the desired effect, and old-style batteries are installed in the apartment, you need to install new radiators that have a higher heat transfer. For example, the heat transfer of one section bimetallic radiators is 140-210 W, while similar indicators of sections cast iron radiators do not exceed 60 W.

Heat loss through door leaf, despite its relatively small area, can be impressive - about 10%. Also, a large amount of heat is spent on heating cold air coming from outside (drafts). The cause of drafts can be worn out seals, gaps between the box and the walls. In this case, the door leaf must be upholstered, the seals must be replaced, the cracks must be filled with polyurethane foam.

Table No. 3.

Thermal conductivity of common materials used in the manufacture of entrance doors.

Table No. 4.

Thermal conductivity of common materials used for upholstery of entrance doors.

Average heat loss, for example, through a door leaf made of solid pine, measuring 2x0.7x0.03 m (HxWxT) will amount to 70 kW * h. But it is enough to insulate it with 2 cm of foam rubber, as the heat loss will decrease to 28 kW * h. If you add another 2 cm of batting, then the heat loss will already be 14.5 kWh. Already counting your savings in money? We will help. The efficiency, for example, of electric heaters is no more than 90%, that is, to obtain 1 kW of heat, you need to spend 1.1 kW of electricity. 1 kWh of electricity costs 3.2 rubles on average. for the central part of Russia. To obtain 1 kW of heat, respectively, you will need to pay about 3.5 rubles. We calculate the savings: (70 - 14.5) * 3.5 = 194.25 rubles. Approximately this amount will cost 55.5 kWh of heat obtained using an electric heater.

Windows are one of the main sources of heat loss, especially when it comes to old window frames that let cold air into the room (popularly - a draft, but scientifically - infiltration). In this case, heat loss can be up to 35%. If condensation, ice often appears on the windows, drafts are felt, then they must be insulated.

The safest way is to install a plastic double-glazed unit. If this is not possible, you need to insulate window frame, sash, glass, window sill and slopes with your own hands. Looking through the window for possible cracks, gaps and cracks, you should not rely only on external inspection, you need to "read" the windows with a damp hand, paying special attention to the slopes, window sills, cracks between the sashes and the frame, between the sashes and glass.

Windows are insulated as follows: all cracks are filled with polyurethane foam; along the perimeter of the sashes, a seal is glued to the places adjacent to the frame; along the perimeter of the glass to the frame, apply silicone sealant; and on the glass itself, a heat-reflecting film is glued. All this will reduce heat loss by 20-25% through the windows.

Outcome

Competent comprehensive insulation is a guarantee of a warm and cozy room without mold and wet spots on the walls, drafts and noise, a cold floor, which you cannot step on without a pair of socks and slippers. It is also a significant saving in electricity, biofuel gas and other means used for heating. "My house is my fortress" - so will say every owner of a warm home, who followed all the above-described advice and thereby achieved the best results in insulating an apartment on the top floor.

Residents of high-rise buildings living in apartments on the top floor are well acquainted with all, both positive and negative sides last floor. For many, it will not be news that in hot summer the roof heats up, the temperature is transmitted lower - to the premises of the apartment and is at this time in the apartment without a cooling device (for example, an air conditioner), it is simply impossible. In the cold months of the year, its "charms". Heat loss through the ceiling at this time is at least 15%, so it is necessary to insulate it. According to the law of conversion, warm air rises upward and is discharged outside. Due to the temperature difference, condensation forms on the ceiling, increasing the humidity of the air. Created favorable environment for the reproduction of fungi, which are very harmful to human health and can ruin any repair.

In addition, those living on the top floor have a chance of ceiling wetting from roof leaks.

A similar situation develops among residents of apartments located at the end of the house. With insufficient insulation outer wall when it is cold outside and warm inside, moisture condenses on the surface of the wall, which subsequently leads to the formation of a wet surface on which fungi and blackness appear.

In such situations, additional surface insulation (both internal and external) is necessary.

Insulation of the ceiling from the outside.

Ceiling insulation gives not only a comfortable temperature regime indoors at any time of the year, but also significant savings in heating costs.

Insulation materials:

Expanded clay - refractory construction material based on fired clay. Has sound and thermal insulation properties, does not highlight harmful substances, is not afraid of moisture, rodents do not live in it.

Mineral wool - it is better to use it during the construction or overhaul phase.

Ecowool is a loose and lightweight cellulose insulation that is absolutely harmless to humans.

Penoizol and polystyrene - polymer materials with low thermal conductivity at a low bulk density, resistant to microorganisms.

The choice of insulation depends on the characteristics of the premises, budget and consumer preferences. For ceilings, a special structure is used from a layer of insulating material and a finished cladding.

If there is an attic: clean the floor surface in the attic (the area to be cleaned should be more area ceiling surface. Place limiters (for example, boards) along the edges of the site so that expanded clay does not crumble from the edges), then lay heat-insulating plates on it (you can additionally fix them with glue, but not necessarily), and pour a layer of expanded clay on top of them. Insulation of the ceiling outside

The second option: clean the surface of the attic, put insulation, which is covered with a layer of waterproofing, and a screed is made on top.

Insulation of the ceiling inside the apartment.

A profile is mounted on the ceiling for fixing the insulation, then waterproofing with glassine is done and thermal insulation plates are fixed. After that, stitching is performed, for example, with plasterboard. Insulation of the ceiling and walls inside the apartment.

Fastening the insulation to the base of the ceiling using special “butterfly fasteners” and glue.

A distance equal to or slightly exceeding the thickness of the thermal insulation recedes from the base of the ceiling and a guide profile is attached along the perimeter of the room. Further on it, marks are made on the sides every 40-50 cm, which are connected by a ceiling profile element. It remains only to break the inter-profile niches into cells, using self-tapping screws to fix the profile, fill them with insulation and fix it to the frame edges. From above, such a cake is closed with a reinforcing mesh for glue and undergoes a standard painting finish.

If the insulation is attached directly to the ceiling, then first the insulation plates are fixed with glue, after which they are additionally pressed with "butterflies" after drilling holes with a perforator in ceiling slab(several per m²) and thermal insulation.

Do the same with wall insulation. Not all walls of the apartment should be insulated, but only those facing the street, into the entrance - from different sides which the temperature difference is possible.

First, the wall and ceiling must be thoroughly dried (with a heater).

Soft mats and slabs set a spacer between the slats of a wooden or metal frame... Rigid slabs are laid end-to-end to each other and fixed to the wall with dowels. After that, the surface is covered vapor barrier film from ordinary polyethylene. Pieces of film are placed end-to-end or overlapped, and their joints must be sealed with tape. In this case, the edges of the film by 1-2 cm are brought on to all joining structures: walls, ceiling, floor, window openings, so that moisture simply has nowhere to leak out. A vapor barrier film is glued to rigid insulation plates polyurethane adhesive, double-sided tape, etc.