Swedish wall made of wood: a photo review with a detailed description of self-assembly. Wooden Swedish walls with your own hands Drawing of a Swedish wall with your own hands made of metal

A healthy lifestyle is always in vogue. It is quite easy to maintain it today, given the huge number of gyms, among which you can find the one that will be closer to home. However, there is not always the opportunity and time to visit them.

An excellent alternative to a public gym and the ability to maintain physical health without leaving your home is a wall bar in an apartment, which you can do yourself. When making and using a home horizontal bar, you can easily maintain your physical shape, as well as develop the child's stamina under home supervision.

Types of Swedish wall structures

In a broad sense, the Swedish wall is a sports complex for home workouts for adults and children. This sports complex can have several varieties:

Do-it-yourself Swedish wall

For the manufacture of the Swedish wall with your own hands, you can use wood or metal. Each of these materials has its own disadvantages and advantages. The wooden Swedish wall will organically fit into any interior, it is a lightweight, environmentally friendly design.

Stairs made of metal more durable capable of supporting the heavy weight of an adult, not to mention a child. But making the Swedish wall with your own hands from metal is quite complicated and requires minimal welding skills.

The production of any wall bars begins from drawing creation... It will help you to visualize the parameters of the stairs, horizontal bar and beams in accordance with the real dimensions of the room in order to fit the Swedish wall into it.

Necessary calculate the distance correctly between the uprights of the stairs in order to measure the required length of the rungs, and without a drawing it is impossible to do this. In addition, the drawing will help determine the type of fastener, adjust the required dimensions, reflect the correct connection of the wall and the crossbar.

The dimensions of the Swedish staircase must be such that the crossbeams do not touch the floor and ceiling. In addition, the dimensions of the ladder in height for a child's wall bars and an adult, will differ: in the first case, the maximum height should be 2000–2100 mm, in the second, it can reach over 2300 mm, depending on the height of the ceiling. The recommended width of the bars is 55 cm and the bars are 110 cm.

How to assemble a wooden wall bars

A standard wooden Swedish wall for an adult consists of a ladder and a removable horizontal bar. To make a staircase, you will need the following materials:

The staircase manufacturing process is as follows:

A wooden bar is sawn into two identical parts, the ends are rounded off with a jigsaw.
The lumber is sanded with a plane, a grinder.
On the boards, on the one hand, a distance between the beams is marked, equal to 30 cm. In the same places, a thin drill is used to make holes for fastening the beams.
In accordance with the drawing, the required length of the crossbar is determined, usually 60–80 cm.
From cuttings for shovels, the length determined for the crossbars is cut.
Bars and crossbars are covered with stain, paint or varnish, and left to dry completely.

where the markings were applied to wooden blocks, blind holes must be made;
glue is applied to the ends of the beams, after which they are inserted into the holes;
steps and racks are additionally fixed with screws or self-tapping screws.

Remains attach the ladder to the wall using dowels and metal corners. A removable horizontal bar, which will be attached to one of the upper rungs of the ladder, can also be made of wood, but it is preferable to use metal for this purpose.

Swedish wall made of metal

As a rule, the metal bar is installed outside. This sports complex may include:

This configuration is individual, and may also consist simply from the stairs and horizontal bar... Before assembling the metal Swedish wall, you need to prepare the following material:

Profile pipe 25 × 25 mm with a total length of six meters in the amount of two pieces.
Pipe lengths equal to the number of steps, 50–60 mm long.
Sections from a profile pipe, which will serve as a reinforcement for the horizontal bar.
Metal corners for wall mounting. Fastening a metal ladder can be done not only to the wall. The pipe supports can be fixed to the ceiling and floor with round washers. However, this method is not suitable for every room.

Racks are cut about 2.5 meters long, the remaining segments are welded to them at right angles as extension pieces. The rungs are connected to the supporting parts by welding or inserted into pre-cut holes with a pitch of 30 cm along the length of both pipes. To prevent the crossbars from twisting inside the holes, their ends are rounded and inserted into the holes until they stop.

To prevent the outriggers from sagging under the weight of the weight while hanging on the horizontal bar, they are strengthened by welding additional pipe sections, forming a triangle between the stand and the top of the outrigger pipe. After manufacturing, the structure primed and painted for metal.

Swedish wall for children

At the planning stage of making a wall bar for children with your own hands, the following nuances must be taken into account:

Collecting a sports ladder is practically no different from assembling an adult horizontal bar. For the manufacture of a hanging rope, rope ladder you can use the cord- its purchase will cost much less than buying an ordinary rope.

As rings you can use bent metal bar the oxygen hose is put on. The ends of the bar are welded to form rings.

When installing a sports corner in an apartment, you should take into account the following recommendations:

This is the main part of the recommendations during the assembly and operation of the Swedish wall, other measures should be taken individually depending on functionality, the size of the corner and whether it is used by an adult or a child.

The Swedish wall, horizontal bar, parallel bars are irreplaceable things for sports activities for both adults and children. Despite the large selection of finished products, many people prefer to make, for example, a Swedish wall for a child with their own hands. The reason is the high prices for industrial designs, the desire to test their strengths as a master and create a sports complex "sharpened" for themselves. In this article, we will talk about inexpensive options for wall bars, horizontal bars and beams that any home craftsman can make.

How to make an inexpensive metal or wood Swedish wall.
How to fix a horizontal bar, gymnastic rings and a rope ladder on the Swedish wall.
How to make adjustable bars and horizontal bar for wall bars.

Homemade metal wall bars

al_com Member of FORUMHOUSE

I have a five year old son. My wife and I wanted to buy him a Swedish wall, but after looking at the prices in stores, we abandoned this idea. Expensive. Thought to buy a used Swedish wall. The price tag is already acceptable, but fastening the bullet to the ceiling does not suit me either. Therefore, I decided to make a homemade Swedish wall by welding it out of metal.

The user divided the work into a series of sequential steps:

1. Made a drawing of the Swedish staircase.

Drawing of the Swedish stairs.

The height of the Swedish staircase depends on the height of the ceiling in the house or apartment. Important: the younger the child is, the more difficult it will be for him to climb the Swedish stairs if the distance between the steps is more than 300 mm.

The optimal distance between the steps of the Swedish staircase (along the central axis of the steps) is from 250 to 300 mm, and for very young children 4-5 years old - 200 mm.

2. Having made a drawing, al_com cut a half-inch diameter pipe into pieces 50 cm long (for steps) and 20 cm (for fasteners).

The pipes were cut with an allowance for further processing on a lathe.

4. I bought a profile pipe 2.5x2.5 cm for vertical bars of the Swedish wall, 2000 mm high, and for two horizontal lintels 1000 mm long.

5. Welded the Swedish wall into a single structure.

al_com

I tried to hang on the wall bars without fixing it to the wall. Tests have shown that the angle needs to be strengthened. Therefore, I made jibs from a profile pipe 2x2 cm. Then I bought primer, paint, two cans of varnish and painted the structure properly.

The next step is making gymnastic rings, rope ladder and climbing rope. First, the user started looking for a rope and decided to buy a repscord from a store that sells fire and burglar alarms. It turned out that the production is engaged in the manufacture of rope ladders, however, 5 m long for 1300 rubles. The user was lucky, and he managed to buy an exhibition sample of a rope ladder 2 m long for only 500 rubles.

Self-made rings - made of a metal bar wrapped with electrical tape and an oxygen hose stretched from above.

The ends of the bar of the gymnastic rings are welded.

al_com

In the end, I made a budget and comfortable Swedish staircase. It remains only to put the rope.

Wooden Swedish wall

If there is no metal and no access to welding equipment, then the most rational and affordable option for a Swedish staircase is to make it out of wood.

Wooden Swedish wall.

Semik FORUMHOUSE user

I made a Swedish staircase made of wood for my daughters a long time ago. This required - "fifty" boards, cuttings from a shovel and an electric drill with feather drills. It took more time to process the workpieces. He sanded the boards well, burned them with a blowtorch and varnished them. It took 10 minutes to assemble the structure.

The burnt board acquires a beautiful texture. Its service life increases, and also, during firing, the pile burns out, and there will be no need to sand the workpiece with a skin with fine grain.

When making a children's sports complex from wood, it is necessary to carefully process the blanks, grind the wood, remove chamfers, etc., so that the baby does not get hurt and plant splinters.

An interesting version of the Swedish wall from Yuri Nosov (nickname on the portal Uvik).

Uvik

Children love outdoor games, climb, play pranks. The Swedish Ladder will channel this energy in the right direction. To make it, I needed a board with a section of 10x2 cm and a length of about 4000 mm. Broomsticks 4 pcs., 1200 mm long. Saw, drill, sander. "Liquid nails" for wood and 2 hours of free time on weekends.

First, the user cut the board into two pieces.
Then I marked the holes for the crossbars.

The holes were drilled with a feather drill.

Life hack from Yuri Nosov - if you combine two boards with clamps, then you will have to mark the blanks only once, and the holes will be exactly opposite each other.

In order for the edges of the hole to be smooth, it is necessary to place a piece of board under the place of drilling.

The result is two boards with holes for the crossbars.

Ready-made shovel or rake cuttings are most often used in the manufacture of Swedish stairs.

The boards were finished with a sander, and the corners were chamfered.
Then the required number of crossbars was cut and, with the help of liquid nails, they were fixed in the holes of the vertical posts.

Also, the user made a horizontal bar for the Swedish wall, taking for this four pieces of board 250 mm long, drilling holes in two of them for the crossbar. The joints of the boards were smeared with glue. At the end of the work, the Swedish stairs were varnished and fixed to the corners on the wall.

The budget of the self-made Swedish staircase was 1000 rubles.

Having gained experience, the user has made different versions of the Swedish stairs.

And children's sports corners.

In the footsteps Uvik went Edmon74 and made a wall bars for a four-year-old child in an apartment.

Swedish stairs parameters:

support height - 2 m + inserts;
section of the board - 140x25 mm;
center distance between steps - 200 mm.

The Swedish wall is planned to be retrofitted with gymnastic rings and a horizontal bar.

Adjustable bars and horizontal bar for the Swedish staircase

You can significantly expand the functionality of the Swedish staircase if you make a removable horizontal bar and beams for it. Moreover, depending on the design, both adults and children will be able to engage in such a sports complex.

Uvik

The design of a removable horizontal bar for a Swedish staircase is clearly visible in the photo below. I made it for a child weighing 30 kg, but the horizontal bar can easily support a weight of 60 kg.

Caring for the younger generation includes the physical side of education. Regular sports exercise strengthens children's bodies, builds strength and endurance in them, and also allows them to release excess energy. The area of the children's room is not very suitable for the installation of large sports complexes, and their price is too high. An elegant solution to the problem will be a hand-made wall bars. It takes up little space, is easy to make on your own, and requires little investment in materials and time.

You can make a sports equipment from two types: wood or metal. Each has its own advantages. The wooden Swedish wall is made of natural materials, easily and organically fits into the design of the premises, production takes little time. The metal product is much stronger and can withstand the weight of even several children or adults. But it requires skills in working with a welding machine, which is not available to everyone.

Sports walls are made of wood and metal.

Regardless of the material chosen, at the initial stage of construction it is necessary to prepare drawings of the future projectile. This will help to calculate the correct parameters, because the height of a standard apartment does not exceed 2.7 m. In addition, in the drawing it is necessary to take into account the distance between the two posts in order to correctly measure the crossbeams. Take into account the dimensions of the future sports equipment in order to fit it into the existing interior. The drawings will help you determine the correct connection of the wall and the crossbar, adjust the dimensions, and outline the fasteners.

The wall must be dimensioned so that it does not touch the floor in case of carpet or carpeting. From above, it should also not touch the ceiling, so that the hanging bar can be easily removed. The height must be safe for children.

Drawings of a wooden sports wall for home workouts

Sports equipment made of wood

A do-it-yourself Swedish wall for manufacturing will require the following materials:

board more than 4 m in length; about 2 cm thick and 10 cm wide;
shovel or broomsticks 4 pcs. 120 cm each;
set of tools;
glue or liquid nails for wood;
screws.

The Swedish wall is just perfect for home workouts

Preparing uprights and crossbars

The board is sawn in half, measuring the desired length of the rack. The ends of the bars are rounded off with a jigsaw, sawing off the excess. Primarily polished with a plane, then processed with sandpaper or a grinder. Measure the distance for future crossbars (about 30 cm), mark the locations of the holes using a thin drill.

The preparation of the rungs begins with determining their length. Usually it is 60 cm, so the cuttings are cut in half. If they were not sanded at the factory, you will have to carry out this process yourself. Any roughness and chipping of wood products can turn into a splinter in the hands in the future. Bars and beams are stained, then varnished or painted, depending on the desired appearance.

Drawing of a sports ladder with a wooden hinged bar

Construction collection

After drying, holes are made in the bars. To do this, use either a feather of the required diameter or a crown as a drill bit. The hole should be made blind so that it remains possible to additionally strengthen the steps with screws and glue. Also, the flat surface of the rack, without traces of grooves, has a more aesthetic appearance. Then the structure is assembled together: the ends of the beams are treated with glue, inserted into one rack, then the second is fixed on top. Additional fasteners are provided with self-tapping screws, connecting the rack and the step with them.

Mounting to the wall is carried out using metal corners. For this, holes are outlined at the desired height, guided by the building level. Dowels of the required dimensions and parameters are selected, and the ladder is fixed to the wall.

Removable crossbar making

Removable horizontal bars are made in several versions: cut out solid sidewalls; assembled from two strips, connecting them at an angle; welded from metal pipes, bending the ends into hooks. ... If it is possible to make blanks on a milling machine, or the manufacturer has the skills of curly cutting with a jigsaw, then it will not be difficult to cut out the necessary parts from dense plywood (more than 18 mm). You will need to make two identical sidewalls of a triangular or smooth "L" -shaped shape with cut-out hooks, with which the horizontal bar clings to the crossbar.

The distance between the hooks should be taken into account, it should correspond to the gap between the rungs. The sides are fastened at the back using a strip of plywood, the size of which is slightly smaller than the length of the crossbars. This is necessary for firmly inserting the crossbars into the grooves, without interference from the side posts.

At the end of the protruding part of the sidewalls, holes are prepared and a crossbar is inserted, strengthening it with self-tapping screws. It should be noted that such a design is designed primarily for the weight of a child: for an adult, it is wiser to make a removable horizontal bar made of metal.

Wide grip attachments

Swedish wall made of metal

A metal Swedish wall with your own hands is not so easy to manufacture. It will require less preparatory work if the materials are purchased in the store. Purchased pipes do not need to be cleaned of old paint and rust. For manufacturing take:

two square shaped pipes 25 × 25mm, total length 6 m;
segments of half-inch pipes 50-60 cm long, according to the expected number of steps;
sections of profile pipes for strengthening the horizontal bar, the dimensions are determined based on the length of the extension;
corners for wall mounting.

The racks are cut at a given height of the projectile, approximately 2.5 m, the rest of the pipes are used for the outriggers, welding them to the top of the racks at an angle of 90˚. Welding is used to connect the crossbeams to the uprights, making sure that the metal is seized thoroughly, and not with the top layer.

The metal sports wall can be supplemented with drawbars, bar stops and abs benches

Then it is necessary to make reinforcements so that when hanging on the horizontal bar, the extension part does not bend down. To do this, measure the length between the end point of the upper extension and the rack so that the reinforcement forms the third side of the triangle. Pipes are cut to the required size, not forgetting about the processing allowances. Reinforcements are welded to both pillars of the Swedish wall. Along the entire length of the racks from the back side, pipe cuttings with nuts are welded, with the help of which the equipment will be mounted on the wall. The surface is primed and covered with paint and varnish.

The do-it-yourself Swedish wall is quite easy to manufacture. Its indisputable advantage is its availability and low price. It helps to save space in the apartment, providing children and adults with equipment to keep fit.

The Swedish wall can be made more varied by additionally equipping it with a rope or rings. It is a good alternative to bulky exercise machines, and is suitable for working on the muscles of the whole body.

The prototype of the Swedish wall is an ordinary household ladder. It was invented by Finnish peasants, and it got its name because Finland was then under the rule of Sweden. But this is not the essence of how important it is. It is important that even the simplest exercises on the Swedish wall (see the figure below) allow you to completely avoid health disorders due to a sedentary lifestyle. Only Scandinavians could think of such a use of the stairs: winters in Fennoscandia are long and harsh. The land is poorly fertile, the agricultural season is short, and there are also exorbitant taxes. It is impossible to survive without winter subsidiary trades. It was in no way possible to lie on the stove in winter, and to yawn and stretch for a long time in the spring before harnessing Sivka-Burka to the plow.

The simplest exercises on the Swedish wall

The conditions of modern urban life impose about the same requirements on the physical condition of people, but for different reasons. A do-it-yourself wall bar is not a complicated product; there are options that can be made at home in 2-3 hours, see below. But the Swedish wall is still a sports equipment, and not household equipment or household utensils, so it must be done in compliance with certain, albeit simple, rules. Which ones - this is what this publication says.

Primary requirements

For simple exercises on the wall bars, you can tie an ordinary ladder to an eaves or ceiling beam, as the Finns did in the old days. But the Swedish wall for an extended and full range of physical exercises is already arranged differently.

The dimensions of the sports and recreation Swedish wall should be as follows:

Span over crossbeams (crossbeam length) - 800-900 mm;
For home and children's Swedish walls, if there is not enough space in the room, it is allowed to reduce the length of the crossbars to 600 mm;
The distance between the axes of the crossbeams in height - 150 mm;
If only a limited circle of adults will be engaged on the wall, the distance between the axes of the crossbeams in height can be increased to 220-260 mm in accordance with the complexion of the users. The range of 150-220 mm is anatomically and physiologically "deaf", it will be inconvenient to study;
The diameter of the crossbar is 40 mm for adults and 24-30 mm for children of different ages (for more details, see the materials on the construction of a home sports corner);
The distance of the lower crossbar from the floor is 150-220 mm;
The number of bars is 12-18 for adults and 10-15 for children;

Even with the most simple exercises at a slow pace, dynamic loads fall on sports equipment, much exceeding the weight of those involved. Static loads from children are less, and dynamic ones relative to the weight of the child's body are greater than from adults. Therefore, the Swedish wall for a full range of adult exercises must withstand for 20 minutes without violating its own structure and fastening to building structures, a load suspended from the middle of any of the bars (or, upon commissioning and annual inspection, to all in turn) a load weighing:

180 kg - for a full range of regular exercises for adults in 2-3 or more shifts every day.
150 kg - home or for children's sports.
120 kg - children's home.

Almost like an ancestor

Technologically, the Swedish wall can be made of wood, metal and durable plastic. It's nice to take a wooden one. Steel is more suitable for an enhanced set of exercises with an emphasis, see below. Plastic - for preschool and primary school children. Let's start with the wooden wall bars, as the least labor-intensive and versatile.

Drawings of a typical wooden Swedish wall are given in pos. 1 fig. Cuttings for garden tools made of oak, beech, hornbeam, etc. will go to the crossbeams. solid dense fine-grained wood without defects. Since they are far from always exactly circular in cross-section, it is necessary to grind the ends of cuttings cut to size to a diameter of 35 mm in any carpentry workshop with a lathe or in a metal lathe (pos. 2). Groove length - 20 mm; the same is the depth of the hole. This will allow you to select holes for cuttings in bowstrings with Forstner's most common furniture drill, the so-called. looped (but see also below).

On the bowstrings (sidewalls) of the home Swedish wall, an ordinary plank will fit without defects that weaken its overall strength. Slanting without rot and mold, small captive knots are acceptable. Fastening of the crossbars - to the end using a self-tapping screw or a confirmation (furniture screw) 6x80 (pos. 3). It is highly desirable immediately after drilling holes for metal fasteners, but before installing it, glue the PVA parts without holding until tack-free, this will greatly increase the overall strength and reliability of the wall, see below. That is, we assemble the wall dry, we tighten it with something, for example, with a rope, for example, we drill installation holes for hardware, we disassemble everything, put it on the PVA joints, assemble it, tighten it with steel. Until the glue has dried, we check and correct the overall evenness and horizontally (so that the "propeller" does not work).

We'll talk about the attachment of the projectile further, but in general, a typical Swedish wall is quite strong in itself and with the help of hooks made of 40x4 or 30x6 steel (pos. 4) can be suspended on a traverse installed in a spacer between the walls (bar, pos. 5) or a low (flat) U-shaped bracket from a pipe from 40x2. It is necessary to weld to the bracket pads-"pyataks" each under 3-4 self-tapping screws 6-8 mm in propylene dowels. Do not bury the ends of the support bracket into the wall! Necessarily loosened! Assembly - lying on supports with leveling in a plane and horizon on a dry or, better, on a plaza - a flat surface covered with a film. Embedding the steel part of the hardware into the load-bearing wall (in addition to the thickness of the finish):

In concrete - from 60 mm.
In brick - from 70 mm.
In wood - from 90 mm.

Note: how to make a simple Swedish wall like a wooden staircase, see also the video below.

Video: an example of making a simple wall bars

Details and options

The most, it would seem, not a home operation - grooving the ends of the crossbars - in fact, usually does not cause difficulties. In any tool shop or at the iron bazaar, they will tell you where there is a turner nearby, where, before your very eyes, inexpensive crossbeams will be turned. Perhaps the seller himself will do it. Much more difficulty arises when searching for material for bowstrings and choosing a method for attaching the projectile to supporting structures. Also - how to put on the wall a hinged gymnastic bar (horizontal bar) and handrails for exercises on a support with your hands (they are often called a support, a manual support, or, less often, half-bars). An emphasis and a horizontal bar have become indispensable accessories of the home wall bar; often make it an integral part.

Bowstrings

A conventional plank for wall bars will not work without a choice: it is not designed for such a large number of concentrated load points. The seller will either allow it or not, and most likely there will be nothing to choose from: the highest standard lumber (and this is what is needed for sports equipment) is selected already during sawing by the manufacturer and goes on sale at a price several times more expensive. Glue plywood bowstrings? It is laborious and not at all cheaper - plywood is also expensive compared to commercial wood.

However, there is a way to reinforce cheap packaging plywood as needed. It also allows you to make the bowstrings of the wall bars from its completely waste waste. You will have to spend no less labor on gluing, but the costs will hardly be more than buying ordinary boards. And the strength of the finished product will be greater than that of the selected highest quality.

This method is the preliminary impregnation of plywood blanks with a water-polymer emulsion (WPE). This inexpensive, harmless, safe and easy-to-use material completely excludes delamination of the most shoddy plywood and increases its strength several times. In addition, there is no need for an expensive and narrowly specialized Forstner drill - all holes are through, they can be drilled at least by hand with an ordinary pen drill for wood. For the wall bars, 3-4 liters of WPE is more than enough.

For the wall on which adults regularly practice, the thickness of the inner parts of the bowstrings should be increased to 28-32 mm; then all layers can be collected from pieces fitted end-to-end. The complete "technical map" of the assembly is as follows:

Prepare the bars (see above);
Plas are prepared;
Prepare weights for oppression;
Slice and fit the inner pieces. Do not forget to number or mark which one joins with which;
All blanks are impregnated with HPE from 2 sides;
The workpieces are immediately laid on the plaza without waiting for complete drying and glued;
After laying and aligning the pieces of the first layer, they are applied to the non and to the counter surfaces of the pieces of the next PVA;
Without waiting for the glue to dry to tack, lay the 2nd layer on the first;
Repeat paragraphs. 7 and 8 until the workpiece is of the desired thickness;
They put oppression on the workpiece - at least 5-6 weights from 2 kg evenly along the length;
The ends of the ribs of the workpiece are trimmed with a metal square, the "crawled" pieces are corrected;
According to PP. 4-11 re-glue the blank of the second bowstring;
After 3-4 days (for drying the workpieces), through holes are drilled for the crossbeams;
Prepare the outer bowstring linings (impregnated with VPE), stick it under pressure on the inner parts and fasten the entire package with small self-tapping screws (indent from the edges of the bowstrings - 20-25 mm);
Assemble the projectile dry and drill the mounting holes for the fastening of the crossbars;
They coat the nests under the PVA crossbars and collect the projectile on the plaza, without waiting for the glue to dry;
Align the structure along the plane (remove the "propeller", if found) and fasten it with 6x45 self-tapping screws for the children's wall in Fig. or 6x60 for an adult;
Dry the wall lying on the plaza for 5-7 days. It is highly desirable to load in the corners, so as not to lead.

Typesetting option

Another option for a convenient and rather economical, albeit rather laborious, Swedish wall in the apartment is a collapsible combined one in the doorway: bowstrings made of an ordinary board or 15 mm plywood, steel pipe beams, beams earrings - oak, beech, hornbeam.

Drawings of a collapsible Swedish wall in the doorway are given in Fig.:

Since there are as many as 32 attachment points to the supporting structure, the fasteners are small, self-tapping screws 3 mm; their penetration into the door frame - from 20 mm. The crossbeams are necessarily steel: wooden, not included in the general power scheme, will not withstand. Fixation of earrings on the crossbars - M4-M6 screws with countersunk heads. The diameter of the parts of the crossbars under the grip can be increased by putting on plastic sheaths, for example. from 2-3 layers of heat-shrinkable tube (HERE); this will also increase the roughness of the rungs to "wooden".

The advantage of this wall bars is that by removing some of the crossbars, you can perform exercises with a wide swing of your legs. Disadvantages - for the duration of the exercises, the passage is blocked, the door frame and the appearance of the opening deteriorate. In addition, the optimal spacing of the crossbars in height of 150 mm is impossible to obtain, and 240 mm is close to the maximum allowable.

Horizontal bar and emphasis

A simple crossbar for pulling up and holding the angle with your feet in the air significantly expands the functionality of the wall bar. A children's Swedish wall without a horizontal bar generally loses most of its developmental qualities. A simple wall-ladder can be easily supplemented with a hinged crossbar holder for pulling up and other static exercises (without sudden movements).

Drawings of the wall bars with a wooden hinged horizontal bar holder are given in Fig. (the upper bracket of the holder is on the upper right; the lower one is in the same place below).

Other versions of the hinged horizontal bar and the manual stop for the wall bars are shown on the next page. rice.:

Manual emphasis allows already very experienced and physically developed users to practice on the wall bars, pos. 4 and 5. For a wooden hinged stop, you need to take a perfectly homogeneous wood of extra strong species without defects: teak, etc. The dimensions of the hand-rest mounted on the wall bars are given on the right in Fig.

However, the most functional are manual stops combined with a crossbar, see another figure:

The main structural materials of the bearing parts are 40x2 pipe, 60x60x2 professional pipe. For jibs, screeds and blades of union grips - a professional pipe 60x (20-30) x1.5 or (on the right) a pipe 20x1.5. For hooks in the same place - a strip of 30x6. "Cape" on the Swedish wall on the right in fig. the most functional, but this is not certified for a general sports equipment: hooks in the area of \ u200b \ u200bthe practitioner are traumatic.

Note: moving the horizontal bar forward - 60-65 cm.

A stationary (tightly attached) horizontal bar on the Swedish wall is required for moderate tension or intensive activities of adults, especially since it does not prevent children from using the hinged horizontal bar, and adults - the palm rest. However, in this case, fastening the horizontal bar consoles (brackets holding the crossbar) with 3 or 4 bolts (pos. 1 and 2 below in the figure) is a gross mistake, as well as parts made of clearly defective wood (shown by red arrows in pos. . 2). Fastening with a square is permissible if the sockets for through-screw bolts, and the parts of the projectile are made of high-quality re-glued solid wood, pos. 3. In any other case, the centrally symmetric fastening may fail “all of a sudden” when the permissible load is exceeded or from fatigue.

It is most correct to attach a stationary horizontal bar to the Swedish wall on kerchiefs made of plywood with a thickness of 24-32 mm. The gussets are attached to the bowstrings with at least 4 through-bolts М10-М12, pos. 4. The gussets can be re-glued from plywood as described above. If there are at least 4 layers of the workpiece (plywood 6 mm), then the pieces for the assembly of layers are suitable from approx. 100x150 mm. The main thing is that the seams in the layers do not coincide in parallel and converge no closer than 5 plywood thicknesses.

The fastening of straight consoles made of high-quality wood with a wedge of 5 bolts is somewhat less reliable. It loosens more quickly than a kerchief, but is not capable of sudden destruction: at first it loosens, which will be noticeable.

Swedish wall made of metal

It is recommended to train strong people on the Swedish wall made of metal and who have mastered quite complex exercises (see at the end). Their palms are more grippy than beginners, and advanced users create large loads. In this case, the step of installing the crossbars in height is taken closer to the maximum possible in accordance with their anthropometry.

Drawings of 2 variants of the Swedish wall made of metal (mainly male and female) are shown in Fig. the size of the "female" on the right - in cm.

Bowstrings and consoles of the crossbeam here and there - a professional pipe 80x40x3. Crossbeams - pipe 40x2. Spacers - "legs" for fastening to the wall - professional pipe 40x40x2. It would not hurt to make braces for the consoles of the right version from the same pipe: then it will be possible to cook with ordinary consumable electrode welding from a portable welding machine.

Note: how to make a metal bar at home, also see the video:

Video: metal Swedish wall with horizontal bar and parallel bars

Wall mount

It is wrong to fasten the Swedish wall to the wall with steel corners and self-tapping screws, as amateur craftsmen often do. As soon as one corner breaks from metal fatigue (which is most likely just during training), the whole mount can come off at once. Fastening of an adult wall bars to a load-bearing wall is possible at 4 or 6 points. It is advisable to fix the nursery at 2 points, see below.

At 4 points, the wall bars are fastened with thrust bearings on 3-4 screws in dowels each, see above. This mount is mainly for lightweight people (up to 70 kg). The lower pair of thrust bearings is located in the middle between the first and second rungs, and the upper pair is located between the 2nd and 3rd from the top.

When fastened to 6 points, the lower two are located closer to the floor, but not less than 0.75 of the width of the bowstring from its lower edge. If, say, the bowstring is 150 mm wide, then the distance of the lower attachment points from the floor is 100 mm. The upper points are marked in the middle between the last and the penultimate crossbeams, and the middle ones - in the middle between the lower and upper ones, but so that they fall in the middle of the distance between the crossbars.

A 6-point Swedish wall is fixed, as a rule, with anchor bolts from M10, but with a bolt diameter of no more than 1/3 of the bowstring thickness and no more than 1/2 of its thickness under the head with a washer. Stepped through holes are drilled for bolts with washers in wooden bowstrings. The depth of the larger hole (under the head) is half the width of the bowstring. Straight holes are drilled in steel bowstrings for the bolt body. Embedding of anchors into the load-bearing wall (in addition to the thickness of the finish):

In concrete - from 100 mm.
In brick - from 110 mm.
In wood - from 130 mm.

For kids

It has already been said above that the static loads from children on the Swedish wall are low, but dynamic children are capable of creating incredible ones. And they all climb up the wall, and even fight on it. At the same time, the height of the Swedish wall for children is quite small, 140-160 cm.Accordingly, the arm of the lever trying to tear off the projectile from the wall will also be smaller.

Second, children grow up. When the baby outgrows the child's wall, it will need to be replaced with a "real" one or removed. It is highly desirable that, at the same time, the repair of the children's room is not necessary or minimal. And at the same time, the children's Swedish wall, while it is being used, should stand in its place like a glove, no matter what its owners do on it.

Based on all this, the Swedish wall for children needs to be fixed tightly in the load-bearing wall at 2 points. How can sustainability be ensured? In two ways: in a spacer between the wall and the upper fasteners or in an emphasis on the dead center between the wall and the floor. In the latter case, the upper fastener serves only as retainers (stoppers) that keep the projectile from overturning. This does not at all reduce the requirements for its reliability.

Note: an alternative option is a wall bars for children, actively absorbing dynamic loads, see below.

At the disposal

The elasticity of the structure is used to fasten the children's wall bars to the thrust. In this case, the bowstrings must be straight, strong and stable in the transverse directions, i.e. sufficiently thick: wooden with a thickness of 30 mm; glued plywood - from 24 mm.

The installation procedure is as follows:

rigid spacers 3-4 mm thick are temporarily attached to the heels of the bowstrings;
the projectile is tightly placed on the floor at the installation site;
on the load-bearing wall, holes are marked in place for self-tapping screws in dowels, see above;
the pads are removed from the heels and the wall is attached to the wall. Her heels will be dangling in the air;
thrust bearings made of microporous rubber are being prepared, with a thickness of 2 mm more than the thickness of temporary gaskets;
one person with a pair of pry bars pry on the lower crossbar at the very bowstrings and pushes the projectile upward (pos. 4 in the figure);
the assistant lubricates the rubber bearings with assembly glue and slips them under the hanging heels of the bowstrings;
the first worker releases the pressure from the pry bars.

After an hour and a half, a physically strong adult will hardly be able to move or disrupt the projectile.

Point blank

Fastening a children's wall bars at close range at 2 points proved to be more reliable than fastening in a spacer. It does not require an assistant to perform, it spoils the load-bearing wall and floor less, and also allows you to give the projectile a playful look. The point-to-point bracing operates on the principle of a lever that is jammed at the dead center. Therefore, its upper attachment points must be absolutely rigid in all 3 planes, and the bowstrings must be somewhat curved. Thickness of wooden bowstrings from 24 mm; plywood impregnated with VPE from 16 mm, i.e. plywood bowstrings can be solid, not re-glued.

The conditions for the reliability of this method of fastening, firstly, the supporting surfaces must fit into a right angle (highlighted in red in the figure below). To reduce the rubbing of the wall and floor, thin silicone gaskets are glued to the supporting surfaces (rubber leaves traces). Secondly, the toes of the heels of the bowstrings should protrude forward at least at a distance equal to the distance between the axes of the crossbars from the load-bearing wall. If novice athletes are already very nimble and playful, it is better to put the toes of the heels forward by half or more of the extension of the horizontal bar, i.e. by 25-30 cm. Third: fastening to the wall - with anchor bolts from M8. Installation of anchors in the wall from 80 mm, from 90 mm and from 100 mm for concrete, brick and wood, respectively.

However, take a closer look at the one on the right in fig. The similarity is only external, but the power circuit is completely different. Due to the inevitable backlash on the fastening of the “ears” brackets to the bowstrings, it is necessary to attach such a projectile to the wall at 4 points, which is less reliable and spoils its appearance.

On self-absorption

The Swedish wall made of plastic for adults is a very, very dubious question. Household plastics do not hold static loads well and quickly get tired of them. Special ones (eg carbon fiber reinforced plastic) are very expensive and overloaded are prone to sudden destruction. But a children's Swedish wall made of polyisopropylene (simply propylene) is a very good solution, because propylene perfectly absorbs dynamic loads. Only you need to attach a propylene children's Swedish wall to the wall as an adult, at 3 or 4 points on M6-M8 anchors with 90, 100 or 120 mm embedded in the wall for concrete, brick and wood. How to assemble a wall bars from parts of a soldered propylene water supply system, see next. plot.

This is the most essential kit for a complete workout at home. This complex will also be useful for those who have small children, because climbing stairs is the prevention of the development of flat feet. You can also equip with a cotton rope for climbing, a hinged ladder, rings for children, parallel bars and other sports equipment.

To make a Swedish wall with your own hands, you must have a minimum number of tools (grinder, tape measure, welding machine, etc.) and detailed drawings. Anyone who has a garage with tools can easily make a Swedish wall with their own hands.

I made this complete set collapsible, so that in case of moving or shipment, the packaging would take up the minimum amount of space. The largest element is no more than 1.6 m long. The weight of the whole complex turned out to be 42 kg, if you use wooden beams, then the weight can be significantly reduced.

Fastening of the Swedish wall is carried out in two ways: to the wall with dowels through the plate and expansion into the ceiling. This configuration is designed for a ceiling height of 2.5m. You can adjust the height to your ceiling height.

Reinforced horizontal bar with wide grip. The horizontal bar is designed for a load of 120 kg.

Swedish wall. Visualization

3D model of the Swedish wall

Drawings and 3D model of the Swedish wall

Detailing drawings, made in a simple design, everyone can figure them out, even without engineering education, and you can easily make a wall bar with your own hands. The 3D model is made to scale and you can easily insert it into your design project, it will look stylish in your interior. So, I give detailed drawings and a 3D model for a purely symbolic price. You will receive a folder with all the materials.