How are round brick ovens built? How to lay out a circle of bricks Laying a round brick tower.

Brick is a classic, durable, wear-resistant material and is used both for the construction of buildings and structures, stoves and fireplaces. It is also a decorative material used both for outdoor, cladding work, as well as for interesting interior solutions in the style of a loft or a Gothic castle. The construction of country houses is not complete without bricks. Round shapes are used to decorate wall elements.

For laying a round well, clay bricks are used, which are laid on a cement mortar.

Tools needed for the construction of brick wall structures:

• trowel - a metal spatula for leveling mortar and seams;
• spatula for solution - for applying the solution to the wall;
• jointing - for the formation of seams;
• pickaxe hammer - for splitting and trimming bricks;
• plumb line - to determine the verticality of the masonry.

Solution preparation

A mortar for brickwork is used a mixture of cement and sand in a ratio of 1:3 or 1:4, water is added until a homogeneous mass is obtained.

To prepare a solution with crushed stone, the ratio is as follows: cement - 1 part, crushed stone - 4 parts, sand - 2 parts, water - 1/2 part.

Round brickwork can be the basis for the construction of round furnaces and wells.

Construction of round wells

If the diameter of the well is small, the seams are sealed with mortar. With a large diameter, the seams are split.

If the well is deep, a ladder should be provided, which is a bracket with an anti-corrosion coating that is inserted into the masonry joints every 20 cm. In order to further strengthen the masonry, steel wire 3-5 mm should be laid every 3-5 rows in two rows.

Furnace masonry

For a round furnace, tools and materials are needed:

The laying of a round furnace is a combined system of laying on a rib and a die.

• simple and refractory bricks;
• clay ordinary and refractory;
• sand;
• furnace door;
• blower and cleaning door;
• grate grate;
• view (valve);
• metal casing rings;
• roofing material for waterproofing.

The basis of round masonry is a complex system of combining masonry on the edge and on the die. The foundation does not have to be round, a square will do. Masonry is carried out in an iron casing with a diameter of 1 m, installed above the floor, on which the plinth is laid out in a circle drawn on a foundation with a diameter of 1 m, plus 4-6 cm. The line runs along the outer border of the plinth. Halves of the brick are placed strictly in line on the plate - this is the first row. Next, you should draw a line - the diameter of the circle, on which the midpoints of the back and front walls are marked. To the right and left of these lines, whole bricks, hewn in a rounded shape, are immediately placed on the mortar. The seam between the bricks is leveled using the rule from the end unhewn side. The first row of the plinth is laid, filling the space of the circle. The second row is laid out from whole bricks, hewn with light blows with a pickaxe on pre-planned notches on one and the other.

For laying the 2nd row, it is necessary to scrape bricks. In order for the masonry to be even, it is necessary to calculate the exact number of centimeters of shearing.

The third row of bricks is laid on the circle mark, less than the inner diameter of the casing by 3-4 mm. Laying is done in the same way as in the first row. The bottom ring of the casing is put on the finished third row, while the top row of the base must be level. The space between the casing and the brick wall is filled evenly with mortar, the distance must be the same around the entire perimeter, avoiding displacement of the casing. Masonry can be continued after the mortar thickens, soaking into the brick walls.

The laying of the first brick row, adjacent to the casing, deserves special attention. The connection of the casing rings should be between the furnace and blower doors and not coincide with the middle of the doors. The width of the rings applicable for laying round stoves varies from 20 to 50 cm.

Bricks are placed vertically in a circle, on the inside the bricks form a honeycomb polygon shape. The seams on the outside will be wide, they are filled with brick gravel. Doors are better to use radial, that is, curved. The thickness of the brick wall is up to 7 cm. The internal masonry is made on a plate with a dressing adjacent to the wall.

The ordering of the brick is a clear sequence, forming paths for the passage of air.

Arches and brick buildings

The bearing capacity of the entire arch structure depends on the central brick.

Wedge and beam lintels of the walls are built using wedge-shaped seams with a transition from a narrow edge, 5 mm, to a wide one, 25 mm. Formwork is used - a temporary form of walls, which is best made of wood. The lintels are connected to the already built wall on the heel - the lower supporting part of the arch. It is better to use a template to determine the deflection angle. The number of bricks should be odd, the rows are marked on the formwork. The number of rows is counted horizontally. The castle row - an odd central row, should be vertically in the center of the jumper.

Bricks are laid from the heels on both sides to the center, to the castle, that is, the last odd brick fits in last. A wedge-shaped jumper is not allowed in spans of more than 2 m.

To build a smooth brick arch, you need to prepare an arch template in advance.

For a round brick building, you first need to draw a circle, you need to take two pegs, to the upper edges of which tie a rope with the length of the required radius. Stick one peg into the ground, and draw a line with the other by analogy with a compass. Lay out the bricks along the planned line on a dry one and provide for the necessary nuances and adjust the bricks to size. You may need to split the bricks in half somewhere.

When laying a round construction of brick walls, a caliper is used, consisting of a board - a shoulder with a hole at one end, a wooden beam one brick thick - a support beam and a sheet of plywood - the base. The support block is fixed on the base. The shoulder moves in a circle on a nail driven into the support bar. Bricks are laid at the same distance from the center of the circle, slightly touching the end of the shoulder, a pointer nail can be driven into it.

For a trowel is used to give a convex shape.

The round kiln is a kiln with a complex combined system of laying on a plate and on a rib. The foundation for the furnace can be made square 1 or round. The furnace is placed in an iron casing with a diameter of 1 m, which is placed on a plinth 2 protruding above the floor. The plinth is placed so that from the casing to its edge there is a protrusion 3 of at least 2 cm around the entire circumference.

For laying the plinth, as well as the furnace, it is necessary to draw a circle 4 on the foundation with a diameter of at least 104-106 cm. The drawn line of the circle is the outer part of the round plinth of the furnace. Strictly in a circle of halves of a brick, the 1st row of bricks 5 is placed on the die. Then you need to find the middle of the circle. To do this, draw a circle with a diameter of 102 cm on a large sheet of paper, cut it out and fold it in half. The center of the circle will be the fold line. A sheet of paper folded in half is placed on the previously laid row of bricks 5 flush with its edge and a line is drawn along the fold line on the foundation, thereby marking the middle of the furnace. This line marks the middle of the front and rear walls 6 of the furnace. According to the mark on the back wall, laying immediately on the mortar of two whole bricks 7 with a semicircular undercut. At the same time, according to the rule, the seam between the bricks is leveled so that it is in line with the mark on the front wall. In the process of this work, according to the rule, two bricks 7 are leveled from the end side 8. So with the help of these two bricks, an even rectangular masonry is obtained inside a round one.

Then it remains only to fill the 1st row of the base with masonry. For laying the 2nd row, whole bricks 9 are used with a certain degree of chipping. Tesca can be produced two-sided and one-sided. In this case, you can make a simple one-sided thesis. In order to perform high-quality laying of the 2nd row, you need to know exactly how many centimeters the bricks need to be cut off. To do this, stepping back from the edge of the 1st row by 25 cm (brick length), a circle 10 is drawn on its masonry. Then the circumference of the circle of the 1st row (outside) and the circumference of the inner circle 10 are measured. The value of the circumference of the outer part of the base divided by 12 cm (brick width). So they find out how many bricks without a seam need to be laid, counting their number along the length of the outer side.

For example, masonry will require 29 bricks. We divide the circumference of the inner circle by 29, we get a size less than 12 cm. The resulting size is applied to the end of the brick 11. A template is made at this mark, which is used when selecting bricks to be processed throughout the thickness of their end. Now, from the mark to the corner of each brick, a line 12 is drawn - the tesky mark. On the order of the 2nd row, it is shown that the teska goes to the end of the brick to nothing. It is better to do the tees of all the bricks at once for the entire row. Since there will be vertical seams during laying, which also take up space, less brick may be used for laying. You need to prepare 27 bricks.

It may happen (and this happens quite often) that the last brick will need to be hewn more so that it is laid in place. If the gap is very small, then two quarters are inserted. Bricks are laid with a hewn side to one side flush with the outer part of the base. So that the base does not have a sharp edge (edge) at the protrusion 3 from above, it is cut off (see the general view of the furnace and the section along A-A). From the 3rd row, the laying of the furnace begins. To do this, a circle is first drawn on the base, 3-4 mm smaller than the inner diameter of the casing. In a circle, as in the 1st row of the basement, the 3rd row is picked dry, and then the bricks are laid on the mortar. In the same way as in the 1st row, using a circle cut out of paper, find the middle and center of the furnace (folding the paper circle four times) and mark them.

According to the marked middle and center of the furnace, markings of the 4th row are made. Having covered the markup with paper, the lower ring of the iron casing is put on the 3rd row. The top row of the base must be folded strictly according to the level, then the casing is easy to install on a plumb line. The gap between the brick and the casing, which should be the same width around the entire perimeter of the casing, is sealed with mortar, then the casing will not move. Laying is continued after the mortar near the casing thickens (moisture is absorbed into the brick). Next, remove the paper and continue laying the furnace. The mortar used for masonry must be soft and of two consistencies: normal density for masonry and thinner for applying bricks to the casing. I usually put a bucket of clay of normal density next to me and a bucket of water. When it was necessary to make the solution thinner, he added a few handfuls of water to a bucket of clay and stirred part of the solution on top of the bucket. In the bucket, it turned out, as it were, two solutions: thinner on top, and normal on the bottom. If a normal solution was needed, then I just got it from the bottom of the bucket.

The most difficult thing is laying the first row applied to the casing. If the iron rings are low, and they can be 30 cm high, then the connection of the rings should be between the blower and furnace doors. The height of the rings depends on the height of the stove-maker and the length of his rue. There can be more than three casing rings, but the main thing is that the connection of the rings does not coincide with the middle of the doors. When installing the casing rings, you need to think about how the beauty of the stove does not disappear, that is, so that its appearance is pleasing to the eye. Knowing the height of the furnace, choose the required number of rings. If the lower ring of the casing is low, then during laying, the brick is pressed against the ring with one hand, and the casing is held at the place of laying with the other. It is possible from the outside, close to the casing ring, to temporarily attach a stack of bricks, then the casing will not move during laying. The laying of the furnace, both in the circle of the 1st row, and in the upper rows, must be carried out so that the corners of the bricks 13 on the inside exactly coincide with the surface of the lower row or the line of the circle.

Good masonry is obtained if it is done accurately both in plumb line and in level. With a small diameter of the furnace, the middle of the brick being laid protrudes slightly into the masonry - this is normal. The vertical seams 14 must also match, that is, the bricks must not protrude in one direction or another. Since the vertical seams 15 near the casing are thick, it is a good idea to insert brick gravel into them after laying each row. Thus, the solution will be slightly compacted and the heat transfer of the furnace will improve.

The doors used when laying a round stove are radial (curved). You can also use conventional stove appliances, but at the same time, the walls of the doors will protrude from 1 sweet. To install stove appliances, holes are cut out in the rings of the casing during masonry. According to the size of the doorways from the inside of the furnace, along a plumb line installed on the casing, vertical and horizontal marks are made. The markings for the installation of stove appliances are done especially carefully. This requirement is due to the fact that the openings in the casing must be cut exactly to the size of the furnace appliances, that is, so that there are no gaps between the casing and the furnace appliances - the furnace appliances must be tightly pressed against the casing.

If, due to the deformation of the iron, it is not possible to tightly fit the stove appliances, then you can press the casing against the appliances with a brick from the inside. The thickness of the wall masonry (including mortar) near the casing is up to 7 cm. The brick is laid standing up. You can lay a wall of brick halves. Internal masonry is made on a die of a whole brick with obligatory dressing at the wall. In orders, the rows are counted according to the inner spoon rows, since the rows of the casing can be different in height. In the 4th row, having previously cut four openings for doors in the casing, it is better to start laying with the installation of a blower door 16 and three cleaning doors 17 located in front and on both sides of the blower. First, the ends of the wire screwed to the door are inserted into the cut out openings, then they are pressed against the casing. The wire from the door is pulled and pulled apart in different directions, the door is placed on the solution. Having installed the doors, they dry fit the bricks with a hint. As a rule, fitting begins with the installation of whole bricks 18 near the blower. Next, two quarters are placed near the blower door, and then brick 19 is installed near the cleaning doors, trimming it so that it is flush with their top in height, taking into account that the thickness masonry should be a quarter of a brick. Laying on the mortar is usually started to the left of the blower door with brick 19, then a whole brick 18 is laid, after hewing it to the desired size, and lastly - a quarter. Then, in the same sequence, masonry is performed to the right of the blower door.

After that, two three-quarters 20 are placed near the casing to the blower door. Since all the doors are the same in height, the masonry of the 4th row near the casing is made from brick halves of the same height. Due to the fact that they are equal in height to brick 19, it is better to immediately prepare their required amount of the same height according to the template. Next, continue laying the left half of the furnace to the rear cleaning door. Then they make the laying of the blower and the right side of the furnace. In the process of masonry in the 4th row, two partitions are formed from whole bricks, reaching the casing, which, below the masonry near the casing, consist of brick halves. Due to two partitions in the 4th row, three gas ducts are formed. When laying near the doors, the wire is bent up in a taut position. In the 5th row, masonry is made with dressing the middle of the furnace and the masonry 21 is leveled over the partitions with quarters. In the blower chamber under the grate 22, a recess is cut out in the brickwork and a grate is installed in it. In the 6th row, the side walls of the furnace are expanded with bricks 23 and four partitions of the gas ducts are installed, with the help of which the masonry is tied with the walls adjacent to the casing.

Masonry near the casing is made 25.5 cm high, and above the partitions - alignment to this height. In front of the furnace on the sides (not far from the grate), with quarters of brick 24, dressing is performed with laying on a die. All flues must be the same size. In the masonry near the casing, after two rows, a dressing is made with an internal masonry on a die. If necessary, when dressing, a quarter or plate is placed both from the bottom of the spoon row and from above. You can use three quarters. In the 7th row, a slope is made (bricks are cut) from the furnace door to the grate, and behind the grate, a slope is made from it to the level of the 9th row (see section A-A). In the 8-10th rows, a furnace door 25 is installed. In the 10th row from the raised hearth, the laying of the saddle wall 26 is continued.

From the 11th row above the furnace door of five bricks, the laying of arch 27 begins. These bricks need to be hewn (15 mm each on one side) from the bottom up: for two bricks - on the left side, for two more - on the right, and y the middle bricks - 7.5 mm on both sides. This arch has its fifth bricks 28. In order to start laying the arch, you must first lay the fifth bricks and lay near the casing, and only then proceed with the laying of the arch. The arch should be wedged with a castle brick so that it is completely between the walls. From below, the masonry of the arch will be ribbed. The ribs can be cut to nothing separately in each brick. At the top, the ribs are not visible, so they can not be squeezed. In the 12th row, the laying of the arches is completed. In the 13th row, the masonry above the arch is aligned with the annular masonry at the casing (see section A-A). On the 21st row, laying with dressing continues. In the 22nd row above the firebox in both walls, overlaps of at least 2.5-3 cm are made. In the 23rd and 24th rows, overlap is made over the firebox. In the 24th row, the upper brick of the saddle wall is cut off on both sides and the bricks located at the turn of the gas ducts under the pipe are cut off (see sections A-A and B-B). In the 25th and 26th rows, two small horizontal gas ducts are laid out, going towards each other, a cleaning window in which a door 29 is installed, transition windows 30 from the gas duct to the gas duct and a transition window 31 through the pass wall 32. In the 27th row make overlap 33 above the cleaning door and horizontal gas ducts and, having leveled the entire masonry in level, begin to overlap the furnace 34- In the 28th row, masonry is carried out with overlaps of 35 by 3 cm around the entire perimeter of the furnace (the masonry of this row is similar to the masonry of the 2nd row ). The flue 36 is made to match the size of the pipe, so that the pipe rests on a solid base, supported by the side walls with most of its brick. In the 29th row, another eaves are made. In the 31st row, laying of the pipe begins, and a valve 37 is installed on it (the pipe goes above).

The furnace is intended for any solid fuel, except for peat. The gases from the furnace, having reached the top, go down through the pass wall 32, where they diverge on two sides of the furnace into vertical channels (see the 4th and 5th rows of orders). After passing through the windows, in the 6th row, the gases enter the first pair of triangular gas ducts passing next to the furnace and rise up. In the 25-27th rows, the gases pass into vertical square gas ducts and go down. In the 4th and 5th rows, they pass through the windows into the second pair of vertical triangular channels and rise up, from where they enter the horizontal gas ducts, where they connect and go into the pipe. The oven is cleaned through the cleaning windows on the bottom of the oven. From one window, two gas ducts are cleaned at once using a thick wire with a bow. Start cleaning from the pipe. For laying a round furnace, you will need (pcs.): red brick - 670, refractory brick - 37, furnace door 25 × 21 cm - 1, blower door 14x 14 cm - 1, cleaning door 14 × 14 cm - 4, grate - 1 (or grates 30 cm long - 10), valve 12 × 21 cm - 1.

Water supply is a problem that owners of cottages and country houses often face. As a rule, you first need to drill a well and build a brick well. Moreover, not only a professional can make such a well. Anyone can handle it! It is enough to study all the nuances of building a brick well with your own hands, and prepare all the necessary tools and materials.

Features of the brick well device

Almost all brick wells have a wall thickness of 250 to 370 mm. It all depends on the depth of the well - the larger it is, the greater the thickness of the walls.

For the construction of a brick well, the following tools are used:

1. Shovels with short and long handles;
2. Rope with a hook;
3. Buckets for raising soil;
4. Pump;
5. Stairs;
6. A tripod and a chain winch that is mounted on it.

The bottom of the well must be horizontal. Make three round frames in advance. Their diameter should be from one meter and increase incrementally.

The bottom frame is made of metal and the other two are made of wood. The diameter of the main frame should be 50 mm larger than the auxiliary ones, the width should be equal to the laying dimensions.

On the outside of the frame, install a cutting knife that will follow the shape of the frame.

Auxiliary frames are made of wood 80 mm thick.

In order for the brick well to be more durable, the frames are reinforced by inserting anchors into them (diameter - 15 mm). These anchors are secured with nuts and washers. Then lower the mounted and aligned frames into the well and check the horizontal position of the frame.

An intermediate frame must be put on a horizontally installed main frame, then fastened with nuts and washers. Please note that the anchors must be strictly vertical.

The last stage is the fixing of the entire structure with poles, logs and boards.

Features of brickwork

Brick well laying requires the use of the following tools:

1. Stitching;
2. Trowel;
3. Pickhammer;
4. Square;
5. Level, plumb;
6. Staples with a cross bar.

The brickwork of the well is made of ordinary building bricks. In no case do not use sand-lime brick, as it is vulnerable to the high humidity of the well.

Prepare a mortar for masonry from M-150 cement and sand in a ratio of 1:2 or 1:3. Then add water and mix the solution well to the desired consistency.

Lay the first row of water-moistened bricks on a 10 mm thick layer of mortar. Lay the first and second rows in a poke way. Since the masonry has a rounded shape, a solution must be laid outside in the remaining gap.

A brick well can be laid out in spoon or poke rows. They need to be put, alternating with each other. The brickwork of the well is performed with the correct dressing of the seams, the only way to achieve its maximum strength.

In order for the well to be the correct shape, create a template. It will help to make high-quality masonry easily even if you do not have the appropriate skills. The template should be attached to a row of bricks using simple hooks.

Once the first row is laid out, start laying the second row by lifting the template and placing it against the next row of bricks.

When the masonry has reached the anchor, cut a hole for it. Close the voids between the brick and the anchor tightly with mortar.

To make the well stronger, lay a thin reinforced wire in its structure every 5 rows. Place it 30 mm from the edge of the masonry.

The masonry must not rest against the intermediate frame. First of all, insert anchors into it and firmly fix the next intermediate frame with the main one.

Be sure to check that the frames are strictly horizontal and vertical. Install verticality with anchors, and check with a plumb line. Check the strength of the installation of the structure, and then continue laying the brick well with your own hands.

Stop laying 50 mm before the intermediate frame. Lay the gap between the masonry and the frame with mortar, you can add crushed stone or gravel to it. You can do this with the board. Pack the solution carefully.

Press the frame onto this layer, try to press it as tightly as possible. Do not forget to cut nests in the bricks for the ends of the anchors, then the frame will lie tightly on the mortar.

If water enters the well from the sides, do not forget to leave windows for mounting filters. They are made from porous concrete.

If the well is deep, install steel brackets to maintain it. The fixing depth must be at least 120 mm over a distance of 200 mm. To protect them from rust, apply two coats of waterproof paint.

Plaster the masonry from the outside. Plastering is carried out using a solution in proportions of 1:1 or 1:2. Next, dilute with water and stir until thick sour cream. Apply the plaster once and then smooth it out carefully with a trowel. Use the solution within 60 minutes. Remember that the longer it will stand, the lower the strength will be.

To reduce friction between the ground and the masonry, board the distance between the main frame and the first additional ring. Mount the boards vertically so that they do not interfere with the masonry.

Plaster the inner walls of the well with high quality. Plastering is carried out in two stages. It is necessary to apply plaster only after the first grip or tier is completed.

Prepare the mortar in the same way as for plastering the outer wall of the masonry. Apply it with a layer of 5 mm. The plaster fills all uneven places and sets well. Then apply a second layer, thicker. Align it properly. To get the job done better, install beacons. Make them from mortar or from specially prepared wooden slats. Apply the solution and rub it, leaning on the slats with the help of the rule.

When the plastering of the first grip is completed, start excavation. Do not forget to check the horizontal and vertical structure from time to time.

Make the brickwork of the second grip with its subsequent plastering.

When the well has reached the aquifer, determine where exactly the water comes from. If it fits from the side walls, insert filters into the holes. If the water comes from the bottom, seal the holes with bricks and cover with a layer of plaster. If water interferes with work, pump it out with a pump. During this time, the solution will seize, and will harden already under water.

To prevent the well from sinking deeper into the ground, concrete puffs or a large flagstone stone should be placed under the legs. The edges of the puffs should protrude outward by 250 mm or more.

When the well is built, cover its bottom with crushed stone or gravel and sand. So you create an eco-friendly filter. The layer thickness must be at least 500 mm. Then remove all debris left after work and disinfect the water and well.

Before drinking water, test it in the laboratory. If it is normal, use the well water for cooking and drinking.

To prevent debris from getting into the well, make a cover and a roof over it.

Wells are a multifunctional structure. There are different types of them depending on the purpose, the material of manufacture. What are they? What is the technology of laying brick wells, read the article.

Types of wells

These structures are different, which depends on many factors: purpose, soil composition and much more.

There are the following types of wells:

• Key- the most economical and simple. They are descending and ascending, depending on the availability of keys.
• Mine wells. To create them, it is necessary to dig a shaft 10-20 meters deep. The shape of such wells is different: round, rectangular, square.
• Pipe wells. They are made in a round shape, resembling a pipe. These are durable and hygienic structures.

Wells are constructed from a variety of materials. It can be brick, stone, concrete, reinforced concrete, wood.

mine wells

These structures, regardless of type, have the same design - an elongated pit, the depth of which is 5-15 meters. The walls of such a well are reinforced, the head is neatly decorated. The advantages of a mine-type structure are that there is constant access to drinking water, which is not only stored here, but also replenished in a natural way. Such a well is extremely rarely completely drained.

brick mine

Different types of shaft wells differ little from each other in their design. The difference between a stone and a brick well, for example, is small. The main difference is in the laying of bricks, where a certain scheme is applied. In order for the walls of the well to be reliable, the width of the masonry should be one to one and a half bricks. The round shape of the shaft is achieved through the use of a stabilizing profile.

If a brick or stone shaft is not reinforced with a frame that forms the skeleton of the entire well structure, it will very soon begin to crumble. For the manufacture of the support frame, a metal profile, fittings or waterproof wood species are used.

pipe well

The laying of a brick well begins with the preparation of frames. Their diameter should be equal to the diameter of the future well. The main one is the bottom frame. For its manufacture, metal, reinforced concrete is used, or since it must be the most durable. The frame is 10 cm thick. The width is equal to the thickness of the masonry. The size of the outer diameter is 5-6 centimeters larger than the outer diameter of the intermediate frames.

The outer edge of the frame around the entire perimeter below has a steel knife. Wooden is both the upper and intermediate frame. They are fastened together with nails. The thickness of these frames is 8 centimeters, and the width is the same or slightly less than the thickness of the masonry.

Along the perimeter of the frames, it is necessary to drill holes under each other, between which there will be the same distance. They are needed in order to insert anchors into them. The bottom frame has six anchors that are tightly secured with a nut and washer. After checking the level, the finished frame is lowered horizontally into the pit, and an intermediate frame is put on it with the help of nuts and washers. To make the structure stronger, it is necessary to strengthen it from above with logs.

Masonry of brick wells

This process is performed in one - one and a half bricks. In this case, the rows can only be bonded or alternate with spoon ones. Necessarily, regardless of the type of masonry, the first two rows are bonded. To maintain the correct round shape, experts recommend using templates that are made in the form of rings with two halves fastened with wedges.

Laying wells with your own hands is not difficult if everything is done correctly. First, a cement mortar 1-1.5 centimeters thick is applied to the main frame and leveled. Bricks of the first row are placed on it, then the second and so on. If the masonry of the wells is round, there will be gaps between the bricks on the outside. They need to be filled with bricks broken into small pieces mixed with mortar.

During masonry, do not forget about the holes for the anchors. They are made in bricks. Gaps must be sealed with cement mortar. In order to obtain a solid brick laying, a thin wire should be laid in two layers along the entire length of each fourth row. When the distance between the intermediate frame and the top row becomes 5-6 centimeters, the masonry must be suspended, the anchors fixed on the frame, and the free space filled with mortar. But beforehand, gravel or crushed stone is added to it in a ratio of 1: 3. The solution must be compacted. For this, a wooden board is suitable, the width of which matches the distance between the frame and the bricks.

When water enters the well through the walls, holes for windows equal to 25x50 centimeters are left in them. They will be equipped with water filters. Reinforcement is applied to the brickwork of the upper row and poured with a cement mortar 20-25 centimeters thick.

Plastering

After the laying of brick wells with their own hands is completed, they begin to plaster their internal and external walls. To facilitate this operation, you need to stock up on beacons, which are smooth, even slats. For this work, six pieces are enough. They are installed at the same distance from each other in those places where the anchors are attached.

The lighthouse is separated from the lighthouse by a wooden semicircle, which is called a malka. Its radius is half the diameter of the inside of the well. Malka moves along the beacons from top to bottom and vice versa, thereby leveling the solution that was previously applied to the wall.

It is impossible to immediately plaster the walls along their entire height, this is done in stripes. Each time, the beacons need to be removed, and the gaps should be sealed with mortar. In order not to clog the bottom with lumps of the falling solution, it is covered with boards.

Plaster the inner and outer surface of the walls of the well in two stages. First, a liquid mortar is sprayed to fill all the cracks in the brickwork, and then a thicker one.

After the first strip of masonry has been plastered, it is necessary to continue sampling the soil and laying the second strip. So you should alternate work until the well is completely dug to the desired depth, which is fixed with concrete slabs placed under the knives of the main frame. The plates should extend beyond the boundaries of the well by about half a meter. After all work is completed, the bottom of the well must be well cleaned and covered with rubble, gravel or sand.

sewer well

The laying of wells of this type is carried out using clay bricks that do not allow water to pass through. In the absence of such, red will do. Laying is carried out in half a brick. Sewer wells are round, rectangular or square. To create them, you will need a lot of bricks, cement, sand, bitumen, greasy clay, crushed stone, as well as a floor slab and a ventilation pipe.

But first you need to choose a place where the laying of brick wells will be carried out. Instructions with safety requirements for the installation and operation of sewer wells must be observed. The arrangement of such structures is carried out at a distance of 30 meters from the source of drinking water.

If the well is intended for the accumulation of waste, it is placed in a summer cottage so that a sewage pumping machine can drive up to it.

How to calculate the capacity of a sewer well?

This is easy to do. It is necessary to multiply the amount of water consumed per day in the country and the number of days during which the accumulation of sewage occurs, for the processing of which by microorganisms it takes three days. This must be taken into account when building a treatment plant made of bricks. It should be of such size that there is enough space for the accumulation of waste for several days.

Brick laying of a sewer well

After determining the location of the well, acquiring the necessary material, construction begins. The technological process of laying brick wells begins with pouring the foundation. The solution is prepared from two parts of sand, one each - gravel and cement. Height 20 centimeters. After pouring, it needs to be given time to harden. Usually one week is enough for this. Every day the foundation must be watered.

Then masonry of wells is done, plastering of the bottom and walls, coating with bitumen in two layers. A ceiling made of a reinforced concrete slab or a tarred wooden shield, a hatch and a pipe for ventilation are installed.

brickwork

Structures of this type are used in water supply and sewerage facilities. it is recommended to place at a distance of at least 3-12 meters from the dwelling. Its owner determines its size individually. The main requirement is the availability of conditions for work related to the maintenance of the pipeline.

Wells can have different shapes. The walls of a round well have a thickness equal to the length of one brick, which is laid with pokes. Rectangular brick laying is carried out according to a two-row system.

For laying bricks in dry soil, a mortar of cement and sand is used in a ratio of 1:4, and in wet soil - 1:3. The seams inside the well are also rubbed with mortar.

If groundwater occurs at the depth of a dug well, its outer surface is plastered. The thickness of the layer reaches two centimeters, and the height is half a meter above the groundwater level. When laying the walls of the well, brackets made of cast iron or steel are embedded in its seams. The distance between them is 35 centimeters. Staples are arranged vertically in a checkerboard pattern in two rows. They replace steps during the descent and ascent into the mine.

Requirements

There are special requirements for the material from which the well is being built. Brick should not have chips, cracks and be hollow. The solution is taken with a standard formulation. It consists of Portland cement M400 and clean sand with a grain size of no more than two millimeters. The mortar is stronger if it contains less sand. It is easy to find out by the ratio of ingredients. M50 brand solution is considered optimal: one part of cement and four of sand.

Lintels, vaults, brick arches are today, rather, a tribute to the exterior design of the building. The device of wedge-shaped, arched lintels allows you to fit a modern building into the existing building of the past. Arches and vaults are an integral part of many types of stoves and fireplaces. The proposed technology of laying brick openings will help to perform the work efficiently.

Varieties of brick covering of openings

A lintel is a covering of a door or window opening. Reinforced concrete lintels have received the greatest application in construction. They can cover long spans and withstand heavy loads.

Brick lintels are used only for non-load-bearing walls, as they do not have sufficient strength for this. The width of the span in this case should not exceed 1.7 m.

1 - ordinary; 2 - wedge; 3 - bow; 4 - beam arched

Ordinary brick lintels are called ordinary. The brick in them is supported by reinforcement. As an architectural detail of the facades, wedge-shaped, arched, lancet, arched, semi-circular and box lintels are used.

1 - semicircular; 2 - lancet; 3 - box

Their variety is due to the shape of the opening, or rather, the outline of its upper part. According to the principle of an arched lintel, vaults are laid out, which are the overlap of buildings.

Before the invention of concrete (the end of the 19th century), the openings were covered with brick lintels. It was not only a tribute to beauty. The wedge-shaped and arched ceilings of the openings kept the load from the wall due to the expansion, which provided a fan arrangement of the bricks in the masonry.

In temple architecture, arches and vaults, as a way of covering openings and rooms, eventually became the canon of church architecture. Modern brick arched openings and vaulted ceilings are only an architectural solution.

The use of arched or wedge-shaped lintels is necessary in the reconstruction of buildings and structures of the 17th-19th centuries.

Furnaces, fireplaces are still being built in almost every country house, where arched or wedge-shaped lintels and barrel vaults are often used in the construction of a pod or ward.

Ordinary jumpers

Ordinary jumpers are made according to the principle of ordinary brickwork. It is also carried out with dressing and ensuring the horizontal and vertical seams. Its difference from simple masonry is the observance of a special quality of work. It is necessary to carefully fill the joints to create a joint work of all the bricks of the opening overlap.

Ordinary lintels, unlike conventional masonry, not only compress under the weight of the overlying wall, but also bend without having support in the opening. The size of the brick lintel is taken from the calculation of its work in the opening for bending. The height is 5, 6 rows of masonry. In length, the size is considered to be the width of the opening plus 500 mm on each side of it.

Due to the special importance of the design of the overlap of any opening, the brick is selected for masonry, the brand of mortar is used at least 25. In an ordinary lintel, the brick rests on reinforcement, which is embedded in a layer of cement-sand mortar.

Reinforcement is assigned by calculation and depends on the magnitude of the load on the opening. With their small values, the reinforcement is installed structurally from round steel with a diameter of 4-6 mm. At the same time, its quantity is - one rod per half brick of the wall. The reinforcement should go into the masonry beyond the edge of the opening by at least 250 mm. Their ends are bent up around the brick.

1 - fittings; 2 - solution; 3 - formwork

For the device of an ordinary jumper, like any other, you will need a tool that is used for ordinary brickwork. To make a reinforced brick support, formwork must be installed. It can be made from boards with a thickness of 40-50 mm.

You can avoid the leakage of the solution and give the bottom of the jumper a more even look by laying any rolled waterproofing or a simple plastic film on the boards. It must be remembered that irregularities on the surface of the formwork will affect the appearance of the upper part of the opening.

A mortar layer is spread on the formwork, on which reinforcing bars are laid and sunk into it. Then a second layer of mortar is laid, which covers the reinforcement. It is important to observe the thickness of the protective layer for metal products. It is at least 3 cm.

During hardening, the mortar must gain the necessary strength so that further laying of the jumper can be carried out. The period of keeping it in the formwork is at least 12 days in summer, in autumn - at least 20 days. During the period of negative temperatures, it is necessary to comply with special measures developed for winter masonry.

To support the formwork, bricks are released from the masonry, which are subsequently cut down after gaining full strength with mortar and removing the boards. It is possible to arrange a furrow in the masonry and bring a formwork into it, after removing which a brick with a masonry joint is installed in this place.

1 - formwork; 2 - release of bricks

Large openings (wider than 1.5 m) require the installation of racks under the formwork. You can install the support boards under the flooring for rigidity on the edge.

Wedge jumpers

Wedge lintels do not require reinforced mortar support. The bearing capacity of such a jumper arises due to the thrust in the wedge-shaped brick installation.

Exists for the variant of the wedge-shaped jumper device:

• wedge-shaped vertical masonry seam;
• wedge-shaped brick.

In the case of a wedge-shaped seam, its thickness from below is assumed to be at least 5 mm, and from above - not more than 25 mm. If wedge brick is used, the seam in the masonry is made of the same thickness no more than 10 mm. Wedge lintels are installed using formwork with circles.

If a window or doorway is laid with quarters, then three circles will be required to build a wedge-shaped lintel. One is made shorter and installed at the level of the quarters, the other two are inside the opening. Formwork is laid on longer circles, which can be made from boards.

The wall is laid to the level of the upper part of the lintel with the heel (support) device. In this case, the angle of inclination of the edge of the jumper (bricks) relative to the vertical is immediately determined. Next, you need to mark all the rows on the formwork of the future floor. Their number must be odd. It is important when calculating the device of each row to take into account the thickness of the seam.

The central brick row is inserted vertically and is a lock. It creates compression at the bottom of the lintel and makes it possible to withstand the overlying load without reinforcement.

1 - lock; 2 - heel

They begin laying the wedge-shaped lintel from the heels to the middle from two sides, in order to eventually approach the central brick - the castle. You can maintain the exact direction of each seam by finding the point of intersection of the direction lines of both heels. A nail is driven into this place on the formwork and with the help of a rope tied to the nail, the line of each seam is determined.

Arched lintels, arches and vaults

The principle of the construction of arched ceilings of openings and vaults does not differ from the laying of wedge-shaped lintels. The shape of the arch can be arched, lancet, semicircular, box. Their difference lies in the choice of the center, the size of the segment and the radius of the circle.

In any case, the center line of the seam is perpendicular to the inner surface of the lintel or arch. A curved line is formed by a wedge-shaped seam or a wedge-shaped brick. In the case of an arched opening, the center line of the seam is a continuation of the radius of the curve.

Calculation of the arched lintel: 1 - onion arch; 2 - semicircular arch; h is the height of the arc; s is the width of the window or door opening; r is the radius of the arc

The thickness of the seams is taken, as in wedge-shaped jumpers:

• at least 5 mm - for the lower part of the vertical seam;
• maximum - 25 mm - for the upper part.

1 - lintel brick; 2 - wedge-shaped solution; 3 - castle brick; 4 - circled

The shape of the formwork is made in accordance with the chosen shape of the ceiling. Checking the radial direction of the seams and the correctness of the curvature of the arches is carried out with a rope tied to the center of the circle of each section of the jumper. You can make a template-gon for the desired shape of a semicircle or segment.

The arches are laid out according to the principle of an arched lintel. Vaults today are erected in the construction of public buildings, churches or temples. For their device, a continuous formwork of the required shape is made. Cylindrical vaults are often laid out in a "Christmas tree". Masonry is carried out simultaneously parallel to the axis of the vault and in rows at an angle of 45 °.

Wedges are placed under the formwork, which are gradually removed during stripping to ensure its uniform lowering. Fresh masonry is very sensitive to stress. You can not put containers with mortar on it or place bricks for masonry. This can lead to a distortion of the shape of the floor and a violation of the bonding of the brick with the mortar.

Vaults and arches of complex configuration require a highly qualified bricklayer, and it is better to entrust the work to a specialist. Having understood the intricacies of the technology of brick ceilings of openings, the construction of lintels and arches of a simple configuration will not be difficult.

Brick lintels, arches and vaults, which came from the past, will still decorate the facade of the house, fencing, small architectural forms, fireplaces and stoves, harmoniously fitting into the interior or exterior of almost any architectural style.