Instructions for insulating the internal walls of a private house. Ways to insulate a house from the inside How to insulate a private house inside

This article will focus on the internal insulation of the house. I will try to tell you in detail about the materials that can be used for these purposes, and the technology of their installation.

Is it possible to carry out internal thermal insulation at home

First of all, let's figure it out - is it possible to insulate a house from the inside? I must say right away that it is highly undesirable to resort to this operation. If you have the opportunity to insulate the outside, be sure to use it.

The fact is that internal insulation has quite a few disadvantages:

the useful space of the room decreases, which is critical for small country houses and small apartments;
insulation of walls from the inside does not allow insulation of the ceiling. As a result, the ceiling contacts the cold walls and cools down on its own. True, this drawback is critical for houses with concrete floors;

walls completely stop heating, which can lead to cracks;
the dew point shifts into the room, as a result of which moisture forms between the insulation and the walls. This leads to mold growth and reduced wall durability.

However, sometimes it is possible to perform thermal insulation only from the inside, for example, if it turns out that external insulation is not enough or the facade is already finished ... In this case, it is necessary to insulate the house from the inside with minimal negative consequences. for walls... I will explain below how to do this.

The choice of insulation

First of all, you need to decide what material is best to insulate the house.

There are quite a few options, however, the following heat insulators are most popular:

mineral wool;
expanded polystyrene;
extruded polystyrene foam;
ecowool.

Mineral wool

Minvata is the most popular thermal insulation material for internal insulation, which is associated with the following advantages:

is an environmentally friendly material. True, this quality applies only to basalt wool. Therefore, it is necessary to use it for internal insulation;
has vapor permeability, which allows the walls to breathe;
low thermal conductivity 0.035 - 0.042 W / (m * K);
is a fireproof material;
sold as mats, making it easy to work with mineral wool.

Mineral wool also has disadvantages - it absorbs moisture strongly, therefore it requires high-quality waterproofing and vapor barrier. In addition, the cost of mineral wool (basalt) is higher than some thermal insulation materials such as foam.

Be aware that mineral wool fibers are irritating when they come into contact with the skin. Of course, it cannot be compared with glass wool, but, all the same, when working, it is necessary to protect the respiratory organs with a respirator, and hands with gloves.

The cost for basalt wool from some manufacturers is shown below:

In general, we can say that rock wool is the best choice.

Expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene is the cheapest insulating material - the price starts from 1200-1500 rubles per cubic meter.

In addition, it has other advantages:

thermal conductivity is only 0.037-0.043 W / mK;
light weight, which simplifies transportation and installation;
does not irritate the skin, so working with foam is much more comfortable than with mineral wool.

As for the shortcomings, polystyrene foam has quite a few of them:

fire hazard, and during a fire, the material releases toxic substances that cause serious poisoning, which can lead to death;
low strength;
zero vapor permeability.

Therefore, foam for internal insulation is used much less often than, for example, mineral mats.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Penoplex or extruded polystyrene foam is a modern type of conventional foam.

As a result of a special manufacturing technology, it has better characteristics than foam:

is more durable than regular foam;
the thermal conductivity coefficient is even lower - 0.028-0.034 W / mK;
practically does not absorb moisture, therefore, if it is used, there is no need to use hydro and vapor barrier;
vapor permeability is slightly higher than that of foam - 0.007-0.008 mg / m · h · Pa, however, these indicators do not allow to fully call the material vapor-permeable.

I must say that expensive brands of extruded polystyrene foam from well-known manufacturers contain flame retardants, making the insulation fireproof.

One of the main disadvantages of penoplex is the high price:

For this reason, extruded polystyrene foam is also rarely used for wall insulation from the inside.

Ecowool

Ecowool is a relatively new building insulation material made from wood fibers. Thanks to this, it is environmentally friendly, moreover, it has good thermal insulation qualities - 0.032-0.041 W / m * K.

Among other advantages of ecowool, the following points can be distinguished:

thanks to special additives that are used in the production of ecowool, the material is hardly flammable, as well as resistant to biological influences;
has good vapor permeability;
is lightweight;
low cost - about 1200 rubles per cubic meter.

It cannot be said that ecowool is a popular material, however, recently it has been used more and more often for insulating housing from the inside.

These are, perhaps, all the most common thermal insulation materials today. As for the choice, you can make it yourself, taking into account the above information.

Insulation of the floor and attic floor

Home insulation can be started with floor insulation. To do this, we need one of the insulation materials described above and a vapor barrier film.

Warming is carried out quite simply:

if it contains flooring, it must be removed;
if there is no rough floor between the lag, cranial bars should be installed and a flooring should be laid on them, which will serve as a rough floor;
then a vapor barrier membrane is laid on the logs and subfloor;
now you need to lay any heat-insulating material on the rough floor with your own hands;

another layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of the lag and thermal insulation;
at the end of the work, the flooring is laid.

In the same way, the insulation of the ceiling from the attic side is performed.

If the floor in the house is concrete, then you can install logs and insulate it as described above, or fill in the screed.

In the second case, the work is carried out in the following sequence:

the floor is cleaned of debris and covered with an anti-mold compound;
then the base is covered with a waterproofing film with a curl on the walls;

insulation is laid on top of the film (extruded polystyrene foam, mineral wool or foam);
then the insulation is covered with a layer of waterproofing;
after that, the screed will be performed according to the standard scheme.

You can also insulate the concrete floor in the attic.

Wall insulation technology with a frame method

There are two ways to insulate the house from the inside - frame and frameless. First of all, we will consider how thermal insulation is performed using the frame method, since it is the most common.

So, the process of warming from the inside of the walls in a frame way can be conditionally divided into five steps:

Preparation of materials

In addition to a heat insulator, to insulate the walls from the inside, you will need the following materials:

wooden slats;
wooden beams (you can also use drywall profiles);
vapor barrier membrane;

finishing material for frame sheathing;
anti-mold agent of the "anti-mold" type.

If the house is wooden, you will also need:

antiseptic for wood;
mezhventsovy insulation.

Preparing the walls

Before insulating the house from the inside, you must perform the following preparatory steps:

if the walls contain old crumbling plaster, it must be removed;

then the surface of the walls must be treated with an anti-mold compound. If the walls are wooden, use a wood preservative.
Instructions for the use of these formulations are usually found on the packaging;

if the house is lumber or log, it is imperative to insulate the inter-crown gaps. To do this, you can use tow, linen tape, or others.

The walls are now ready for further work.

Frame installation

Now you can start installing the frame and insulating the walls.

This work is carried out as follows:

the surfaces of the wall and insulation should not be in contact. Moreover, it is highly desirable to make a ventilation gap between the insulation and the wall.... For this, horizontal slats are attached to the walls.

The vertical distance between the planks should be half a meter, and horizontally a few centimeters. Keep in mind that the slats should form a flat vertical plane.

Therefore, if the walls are uneven, the position of the slats must be adjusted by placing bars, plywood trimmings, etc. under them. It is not necessary to perfectly align, since the plane of the frame can also be corrected at the stage of installing the racks;

now, in order for a ventilation gap to form between the inner surface of the wall and the insulation, it is necessary to fasten the vapor barrier membrane tightly on the rails. The joints, which must necessarily have an overlap, should be glued with tape;
further racks are installed. If the thickness of the beams corresponds to the thickness of the insulation, then they can be fixed on the rails using metal corners and self-tapping screws. If the racks are thinner, you can use the suspensions that are used for drywall, and fix the bars in them.

As I said above, you can make a standard metal frame, like for drywall. In this case, guides should be installed on the floor and ceiling, a distance equal to the thickness of the insulation will recede from the wall (slats).

Then the rack profiles are inserted into the guides and fixed in the hangers. In other words, the work is performed in the same sequence as when assembling a conventional frame for gypsum board.

If mineral mats will be used as insulating material, the distance between the racks should be a couple of centimeters less than their width. If expanded polystyrene or polystyrene foam is used, the distance should correspond to the width of the plates;

the next step is to insulate the walls of the house. Mats or insulation boards are inserted into the space between the uprights. Try to position the insulation as tightly as possible to each other in order to avoid the formation of cold bridges;

then another layer of vapor barrier is mounted according to the principle described above;
on top of the film, a crate is attached to the racks. As a rule, wooden slats are used for these purposes;
at the end of the work, holes are made from the outside of the walls below and under the visor to provide ventilation. These holes can be filled with mineral wool.

This completes the wall insulation. I must say that thermal insulation with ecowool is carried out in a slightly different way. In the case of its use, the frame is first closed with a vapor barrier film, after which the ecowool is fed into the space of the frame through a hose using special equipment, as shown in the photo above.

There is also a wet insulation method. In this case, ecowool is supplied under pressure in a wet form, as a result of which it adheres to the wall surface. The disadvantage of this technology is that it will not be possible to create a ventilation gap between the wall and the insulation.

After the walls are insulated, the frame should be sheathed with plasterboard, clapboard, plastic panels or other material. Since this procedure has no peculiarities, we will not consider it.

Frameless insulation technology

Now let's look at how to insulate a house inside a frameless way. I must say right away that for such insulation, you can use only foam or extruded polystyrene foam.

In addition to insulation, the following materials must be prepared:

foam glue;

waterproofing primer;
dowels for polystyrene;
fiberglass mesh;
putty for walls.

The insulation process in this case is as follows:

so that the insulation does not come into contact with the damp wall surface, the wall must be treated with a waterproofing primer. The composition can be applied with a paint roller as a regular primer;

then you need to dilute the foam glue in water, following the instructions on the package;
then the adhesive must be applied to the back of the insulation with a notched trowel;

the insulation must be applied to the wall, slightly pressed down and leveled. Work is carried out from the corner from bottom to top;
then the second insulation plate is glued in the same way, which is located close to the first;

after pasting the entire first row, you can start installing the second. Place it offset from the first row, i.e. on the principle of brickwork. Also, tie the slabs at the corners.
In this way, all walls in the room are pasted over;

In the photo - an example of installing dowels

after the glue dries, the insulation must be additionally secured with dowels. The dowels should be placed at the corners of the insulation. Install them so that the caps are slightly recessed;
if the insulation is carried out with extruded polystyrene foam, the surface of the insulation must be treated with sandpaper or a metal brush to roughen the surface.
After that, the penoplex must be covered with an adhesive primer;
the existing gaps between the plates must be filled with scraps of insulation or even polyurethane foam;

now you need to glue the mesh to the insulation with the same glue with which the plates were glued. The glue should be applied to the insulation with a notched trowel, after which a fiberglass mesh should be applied to the surface, and passed over it with an ordinary spatula or a small one.
Keep in mind that the edges must overlap each other by at least 10 cm.
after drying, the walls must be covered with another thin layer of adhesive;

at the end of the work, the surface must be primed and putty.

After the walls are insulated in this way, it is necessary to provide high-quality ventilation in the room, otherwise the humidity in the house will constantly increase.

This completes the insulation. I must say that when the walls are insulated in this way, they will damp them more than with thermal insulation by the method described above. Therefore, this technology is best used for thermal insulation of the ceiling or if it is necessary to additionally insulate the walls.

Output

From the article you learned that it is quite simple to carry out internal insulation in a private house. However, this procedure is very demanding on the observance of technology, on which the durability of the walls depends. I recommend watching the video in this article to consolidate the received material. If you have any questions, leave them in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

We all know how important it is to keep our home warm. You can spend a lot of effort and energy on building a house, you can think over the design of the facade, internal design to the smallest detail, pay attention to every little detail in the situation. However, if it is cold in our house, then it is unlikely that we will feel good in it - thermal comfort is one of the most important conditions for coziness.

If you are the owner of a private house, then you should be aware of how important the competent insulation of your home is. It doesn't matter what material your house is built from - any building requires additional thermal insulation.

Insulation of a private house is best done at the construction stage - it is easier to take into account all important factors, to choose the appropriate method and material. However, if you bought a finished building or did not take care of the thermal insulation of the house during the construction period, you can also insulate it after the construction work is completed.

Many owners want to do the insulation of the house with their own hands - this is not surprising, because in this way you can save a significant part of your finances. Yes, and more confidence that everything will be done conscientiously - who should be entrusted with keeping the warmth in the house, if not yourself?

Thermal insulation methods for a private house

Modern building technologies distinguish between external and internal insulation of buildings. Each of these methods has its own advantages and disadvantages and is used depending on the characteristics of the given building.

The outdoor method involves the location of the insulation layer outside the building. This method provides the following advantages:

It becomes possible to protect the facade from the negative influence of the external environment, which badly affects its durability.
The useful area inside the building is not "eaten away", as it happens when we choose the internal location of the insulation.
The dew point is located outside the house, which helps to avoid fogging of the walls inside the house.

However, it happens that external insulation for some reason is undesirable or impossible. This usually happens in cases where it is necessary to preserve the original appearance of the facade or its design does not allow external placement of the insulation. In this case, they choose internal insulation - its advantage is that it is much easier to do it yourself without the need to hire a team of professional craftsmen.

Before you insulate the walls of the house from the inside with your own hands, it should be borne in mind that with this method, the dew point is inside the room. Everyone knows that air masses carry a certain proportion of water vapor. When the thermal layer is located inside the building, the wall remains cold. Water vapor, in contact with it, condenses into droplets of moisture, which leads to fogging of the wall. Moisture droplets turn to ice and can destroy walls, falling into cracks on their surface. In order to avoid this, it is necessary to think over competent waterproofing, which will protect the wall and insulation from condensation.

There are various materials with which you can make an effective and inexpensive do-it-yourself internal home insulation.

Do-it-yourself internal insulation of a house using penoplex

Penoplex (expanded polystyrene) is widely used for thermal insulation of buildings. It is a modern white material, composed of air and expanded polystyrene. It is very convenient and beneficial for this type of work, due to which expanded polystyrene is one of the leading places in demand among thermal insulators. Penoplex is produced in the form of plates of various thicknesses and different dimensions. The thicker the slab, the more effective the thermal insulation.

Expanded polystyrene has the following properties:

It has an extremely low coefficient of thermal conductivity, which makes it an excellent material for thermal insulation of buildings.
It absorbs noise very well - an important advantage if you want to protect your home from an excess of extraneous sounds.
Does not pass or absorb moisture - this is very convenient, since there will be no opportunities to create a humid environment.
Does not lose its properties under the influence of moisture.
Long lasting.
Non-toxic - Penoplex does not emit any substances that can harm the human body.
It tolerates temperature changes well and retains its characteristics over a wide temperature range.
It has a low weight, which makes it easy to transport and install.
Handles well with common tools.
Non-flammable.
Does not rot and does not allow mold and mildew to form.
Inexpensive.

Do-it-yourself internal insulation of a house using penoplex looks like this:

We prepare the surface of the wall, cleaning it from dust and debris. We close all cracks and cracks using a putty and a spatula.
We prime the surface with a special acrylic primer in order to exclude the possibility of mold and mildew.
After the primer has dried, we glue the expanded polystyrene plates to the wall surface. We glue the wall and the slab with glue and press the slab against the wall. We start the installation from below and glue the plates end-to-end in a checkerboard pattern. We blow out all connections with polyurethane foam.
After the glue dries, we additionally fix each board using plastic dowels with wide caps in the center and in the corners.
On top of the expanded polystyrene, we stretch a layer of waterproofing - dense polyethylene, which we glue at the joints with adhesive tape.
Stretch a reinforcing mesh over the waterproofing.
And now we can start finishing with decorative plaster.

On this, thermal insulation with the help of expanded polystyrene can be considered complete.

Internal insulation of house walls with mineral wool

Mineral wool is another very popular and widespread home insulation. There are several varieties of it - stone (basalt) wool, glass wool and slag wool. The most convenient and popular option is stone wool - it is made by melting and centrifuging volcanic rock. Unlike glass wool, it does not require any safety measures during installation work and has more beneficial characteristics:

Perfectly insulates various areas of buildings.
It absorbs noise well.
Has a high vapor permeability.
Highly environmentally friendly and non-toxic.
Its high refractory properties make it possible to perform heat protection in areas with high temperatures - for example, near stoves and chimneys.
Does not absorb moisture.
Long lasting.
It keeps temperature extremes well.
Does not give in to decay and mold.

The high vapor permeability of mineral wool requires the use of waterproofing - otherwise, moisture droplets can become entangled in its fibers and create a humid environment, which will negatively affect the durability of the building and the insulation.

Mineral wool has a rather impressive mass - when working with it, you must take into account the ability of the walls to withstand a load of this level. This material is produced in the form of rolls, rigid plates and flexible mats of a fibrous structure.

Internal insulation with mineral wool takes place according to the following scheme:

We thoroughly clean the surface of the walls from dust and dirt. Fill all holes and cracks with a spatula and putty. We remove all possible areas of mold.
Using thin strips, we stuff a waterproofing layer of dense polyethylene onto the wall. All joints are carefully glued with adhesive tape, keeping an eye on the tightness.
We stuff a crate of wooden beams placed vertically on the wall. The step of the lathing should be equal to the width of the rock wool roll.
Between the beams of the crate, we tightly place the insulation end-to-end. We glue the joints with adhesive tape to avoid the formation of cold bridges.
On top of the thermal insulating layer, we stretch another layer of waterproofing made of dense polyethylene, gluing at the joints and monitoring the tightness. We fasten it to the battens of the crate using thin wooden planks.
We fill the finishing coating on the lathing bars - lining, drywall or any other option to taste. At this, thermal insulation with mineral wool can be considered complete.

The use of foil insulation

Modern technologies offer a number of the latest developments in the field of home thermal insulation. One of these new products is foil insulation, which is increasingly used for thermal protection of houses.

Foil insulation is a heat-insulating layer to which a metallized foil coating is glued. Foil is not a heat insulator - its coefficient of thermal conductivity is extremely high, which does not allow it to be used as a heater in any case. However, a different phenomenon is used here - the foil reflects the thermal radiation and directs it back into the room.

The industry produces foil insulation based on foamed polyethylene, foamed polystyrene and mineral wool. There are varieties with one-sided metallized coating and two-sided. Foil heat insulators with a self-adhesive coating are also available - this greatly simplifies their installation on the wall.

Consider the thermal insulation of a house from the inside using foil insulation, for example, penofol:

We clean the surface of the wall from dust and debris, carefully seal all cracks and cracks with a putty and a spatula.
We attach a crate of wooden beams arranged vertically to the wall. We choose the pitch of the beams equal to the width of the foam foil roll.
Between the battens of the crate, we place the foam foil rolls end-to-end in such a way that the metallized coating faces the interior of the room. We glue the joints with a special adhesive aluminum tape.
Immediately after that, we can mount the finishing coating on the battens of the lathing - foil heat insulators based on foamed polyethylene or polystyrene do not require the use of waterproofing. After the topcoat is finished, the thermal protection process can be considered complete.

Conclusion

The process of thermal insulation of a house from the inside has more disadvantages compared to external thermal protection - it is used when thermal insulation from the outside is undesirable or impossible for some reason. However, the installation of the thermal layer itself is simpler and easier to do if all the work is done independently.

Thermal insulation of a home from the inside requires a good knowledge of all the subtleties and nuances. The choice of material depends on the characteristics of the premises and the wishes of the owner of the house. The work is done quite simply and you will not have any difficulties if you are accurate and hardworking. Your efforts will bear good fruit - with your own hands you will make your home a home - a place where you want to return in order to enjoy the warmth and comfort.

It is best to use thermal insulation inside the house only as an additional measure. If the outer walls are not protected from the cold, during insulation inside the house, condensation will constantly form in the room, which will contribute to the development of fungus and mold in the walls.

Dew point

The dew point is the temperature at which steam turns into water. Condensation occurs at the heat-cold interface. In our case, it will appear in the place where an unheated wall comes into contact with warm air coming from the room. Moreover, the greater the difference between the temperature of the wall and the temperature inside the room, the more condensation will be.

Dew point in the wall of the house

If the house is insulated from the outside, there will be no sharp temperature drop when installing additional thermal insulation inside the house, so the amount of condensate inside the room will be minimal. But it will still accumulate.

To prevent the walls from getting wet after insulation, to lay internal thermal insulation should not only choose the right material but also take steps for the perfect sealing seams... To avoid condensation, it is better to insulate only separate sections of the walls on the leeward side, ends and corners.

Choice of materials

For internal insulation, you should not choose materials that have a high degree of moisture absorption: mineral wool, cork, warm plaster or drywall. The last two materials can only be used as a finishing layer.

Porous penoplex does not absorb moisture, however, it has low vapor permeability, so it can only be used if the quality of the seams is ideal. If the thermal insulation layer is leaky, condensation will form between the wall and the finishing material.

The air permeability of the foam is higher, in addition, it is very problematic to achieve perfect joining with the wall using this material, therefore it is better not to use it for interior wall decoration or choose increased strength foam.

Penoplex

Preparing the walls

Before gluing heat-insulating materials, the walls must be completely cleaned of old wallpaper, paint and loose plaster. To do this, you can use a metal brush, a hair dryer or a grinder with a special attachment. In the presence of mold or mildew, these areas are additionally treated with antiseptics after cleansing.

To avoid the appearance of cold bridges and the formation of condensation, all existing cracks should be completely sealed with foam or mortar. The protruding parts of the wall, which do not allow the thermal insulation material to be laid evenly, get lost. Too large dents are smoothed out with mortar.

Cleaning the walls

All holes and gaps between the wall and the window are also carefully sealed with polyurethane foam. After it hardens, the remnants are cut off with a knife.

Sealing gaps with foam

Padding

Applying a layer of primer will reduce the vapor permeability of the walls, strengthen the surface and increase the degree of adhesion to the adhesive. In addition, this treatment will inhibit the development of the fungus.

For priming, deep penetration formulations should be chosen. For wood processing, it is better to choose alkyd mixtures. The acrylic primer is versatile and can be used on all types of surfaces. Epoxy compounds are used only for processing concrete and brick walls.

The primer is applied twice. The second layer is applied only after the first has dried. Smooth walls can be primed with a roller. In the presence of a large number of dents and chips, it is better to use a regular brush, the bristles of which can penetrate even the smallest crevices.

Wall priming with a roller

Vapor barrier film laying

Before installing the insulation, a foil material that reflects heat, or a thick plastic film, is fixed on the wall. They are fixed to wooden bars or a profile with staples, tape or mounting glue. Foil material is stacked shiny side outside, to the room.

All joints are glued with construction tape. In places where they are adjacent to building structures and pipes, they are additionally treated with a liquid sealant and fixed with a stapler.

Finishing with foil insulation

The film or foil material is laid with an overlap, while the joints of the canvas should fall on the frame racks. A slight overlap is made on the adjoining walls, windows, ceiling and floor.

Insulation installation

Unlike foam, penoplex has not a rough, but a smooth surface, therefore, to increase its adhesion to the wall, it is processed before gluing. needle roller or sandpaper.

Needle roller

Small areas (space under radiators, slopes and window sills) are insulated first. Penoplex is well cut with a hacksaw or a sharp knife. To avoid damage to the material, it can be cut with hot wire.

Important! Work should be carried out in the summer after thorough drying of the room. The walls on which the thermal insulation material will be laid must be as dry as possible.

Wall decoration with styrofoam

To fix the sheets to the wall, it is better to use a special adhesive designed for working with penoplex. It is necessary to dilute it in small quantities: the dried mixture will crumble, and the thermal insulation will be broken. It maintains adhesion for 10 minutes - during this time, the foam sheet must be fixed to the wall.

The adhesive is spread evenly over the entire sheet using a notched trowel. For uneven walls, the adhesive can be applied in a thicker layer only in the center and perimeter of the sheet.

Oiling sheets

The sticker starts at the bottom of the wall. The sheets are joined together end-to-end. Unlike foam, foam has projections around the perimeter, so such a connection will be more tight. As a support for the bottom sheet, it is better to use starting metal rail-profile, which is fixed to the wall using dowels with washers.

The sheet is glued from bottom to top. It is firmly pressed to the surface, and then the excess glue is "expelled" from under the sheet. For offset (the penoplex is glued in a checkerboard pattern), the first sheet of the second row is cut in half. The correctness of the installation of the penoplex is controlled by the building level.

Important! The gaps between the penoplex are filled with scraps of material and glued. It is not recommended to use polyurethane foam for these purposes. In the process of expansion, it can lift the foam sheet, which will lead to a loss of tightness and the formation of cracks.

Fastening the penoplex

Additional fastening of sheets is done using plastic "fungi" in which the dowels are inserted. To do this, holes are drilled in the wall through the insulation sheet: four in the corners of the sheet and one or two in its center. The dowels should enter a brick wall to a depth of at least 90 mm, and into a concrete wall - 50 mm. They are hammered with a rubber hammer.

Plastic dowels

After insulation, drywall or reinforced film can be attached to the wall and finished with decorative plaster.

There are many negative opinions about whether it is possible to insulate the walls from the inside. On the other hand, it is not always possible to sheathe the walls of a private house or apartment with insulation from the outside for various reasons. Therefore, the internal thermal insulation of the premises also has the right to life, the main thing is to correctly perform this insulation with your own hands, which will be discussed in the material presented below.

When you can and cannot do insulation from the inside

All the problems that internal wall insulation can create are largely contrived and often exaggerated by supporters of external thermal insulation. The most common statement is about the dew point arising in the wall, which, after the wall is insulated from the inside, moves to its inner surface, as a result of which condensation appears on the insulation / wall border, followed by various fungi. Since the process is hidden from view by a heat-insulating layer, the problem is revealed already at an advanced stage.

This is not entirely true. In fact, the dew point in the thickness of the wall is constantly moving, because the temperature outside and inside changes even during the day. Therefore, specialists in construction thermal physics operate with such a concept as a zone of possible condensation, and not just one point. Within this zone, moisture must condense, regardless of the method of insulation, the only question is its quantity.

If there is no significant supply of vapors from the outside, then moisture falls out only from the air inside the wall, and this is a scanty amount. And since condensation is accompanied by the release of heat, this moisture can evaporate quickly enough. When a large amount of steam enters the walls from the street or from rooms, dampness can form, which often suffers from cold concrete walls.

Important. If concrete or walls made of other materials are wet, then it is not allowed to insulate the house from the inside until the reasons for damping are clarified and eliminated. Often, such reasons are high indoor humidity and the lack of supply and exhaust ventilation.

In contrast to negative judgments, here are a couple of typical examples from practice. The first is the insulation of the pitched roof of a private house, because it is carried out only from the inside. If the heat-insulating "pie" is made correctly, then all the resulting moisture is safely removed from the insulation. The same applies to the frame house, where mineral wool, which is part of the outer wall, acts as thermal insulation.

The reasons why homeowners are forced to insulate the house from the inside are quite compelling:

sheathed the wall with insulation from the outside is very difficult technically, and with your own hands it is generally impossible. These include facades of downtown buildings and apartments in high-rise buildings;
some enclosing structures border on technical rooms, for example, an elevator shaft;
since insulation on the inside is much cheaper than the outside, for many this is also an important argument. People do not always have financial resources, but they want to save on heating.

The conclusion from all of the above is this: the internal insulation of a residential or country house has the right to life, but with some reservations. The wall to be insulated must be dry and free of fungus initially; moreover, it is necessary to prepare the surface according to the technology.

Materials (edit)

The choice of materials used for insulating private houses and apartments from the inside is not very wide and consists of the following positions:

mineral wool in slabs with a density of at least 100 kg / m3;
plate foam with a density of 25 kg / m3;
extruded polystyrene foam in plates, it is also a penoplex;
thin insulators with foil based on foamed polyethylene are used as additional insulation.

Note. There is an opinion that it is possible to insulate building structures with plasterboard. The latter is indeed able to retain heat, but cannot serve as the main heat-insulating layer. GKL is a finishing material, used in conjunction with heaters.

Non-combustible mineral wool is well suited for the internal thermal insulation of any wooden house, both timber and log. Its only serious drawback is its ability to absorb moisture and pass water vapor through itself rather freely. Therefore, mineral wool should be carefully protected from the space of the rooms so that moisture from the inside of the house does not seep into the insulation. At the same time, it is better to take cotton wool in high-density slabs, it does not settle from moisture and is able to give moisture well.

Advice. It is impossible to purchase mineral wool based on fiberglass (glass wool) for internal thermal insulation, it is harmful to human health.

No matter what they say, the foam also allows a small fraction of vapors to pass through, so it also needs a vapor barrier. In addition, the material is flammable, so it is better to hide it behind a plasterboard finish or plaster it. Polyfoam is very popular due to its low cost, therefore it is suitable for a budget option for insulating both wooden and brick walls from the inside.

An excellent insulation in all respects is extruded polystyrene foam, which has the highest thermal insulation performance. Another thing is that it is the most expensive of all materials used for internal insulation, but it is also the thinnest. And penoplex does not allow water vapor to pass through, therefore it does not require any vapor barrier. Better than it is only polyurethane foam, which is sprayed by machine.

Well, foamed polyethylene (penofol, izolon) can also be successfully used instead of a vapor barrier film and as additional insulation to the main layer of mineral wool. Only it must be properly laid with gluing the joints, which will be discussed below.

Wall insulation technology from the inside

The first step is to prepare the surface. If we are talking about a brick wall, then it must be plastered from the inside and leveled, after which the surface is treated with a deeply penetrating antifungal primer.

The bottom line is that an air gap does not form between the wall and the layer of insulation, from which condensation can fall out at a certain temperature difference. It's a different matter - a house made of a bar or a rounded log, here you cannot do without air pockets. If the walls of the timber have only small horizontal slots, then it is unrealistic to make the inner surface of the log house even.

It remains only to carefully dig all the joints and cracks, and then impregnate the wood with an antiseptic composition. The best option for warming brick walls is still expanded polystyrene or expanded polystyrene with a thickness of 20 to 50 mm, depending on the climate in the region of residence. An adhesive mixture or polyurethane glue is first applied to the foam board, and in a continuous layer, and not only along the perimeter.

Remember what we said earlier about excess air. Then the slab sticks well to the wall, the next one after it, and so on. It is necessary to ensure that the joints between the slabs are minimal, fitting them tightly to each other. After the glue hardens, the insulation should be fixed with dowels in the form of fungi at the rate of 2-3 pcs. on the expanded polystyrene plate is no longer needed.

On this, the insulation of the house or cottage from the inside, made by hand, is completed, you can start finishing work. Plaster on a reinforcing mesh fits well on penoplex or tiles are glued.

To insulate a wooden house, you will need to install a frame made of timber, whose width is equal to the thickness of the insulation. Thermal insulation technology looks like this:

the wall surface is covered with a vapor-permeable diffusion membrane. A ventilation gap is left under the membrane, as shown in the diagram below;
the battens of the sheathing are installed and fixed in such a way that the insulation plates enter the gap between them;
mineral wool is laid between the uprights without additional fasteners;
a vapor barrier layer is made from a film. Its canvases are laid with an overlap and gluing, pressing the counter-lattice with the slats;
drywall sheets and other interior decoration are attached to the slats.

Note. Here, the ventilation gap serves to remove vapors that penetrate through the log or timber wall and are formed in the insulation. For this, special holes are made in the wall.

Particular attention should be paid to sealing the vapor barrier layer. The joints must be well glued with tape so that moisture from the room cannot penetrate into the insulation. Here, instead of a film, foil-clad penofol can be laid, only without overlaps. Aluminum tape is used for gluing the joints. How to properly lay such heaters is shown in the video:

Conclusion

If the insulation of the walls of the house from the inside is done correctly, then there will be no moisture and mold fungi under the insulation. It is important when installing a "pie" in a wooden house to make as few holes as possible in the vapor barrier, for which it is pressed against the ends of the beams with even slats. By the way, any of the listed materials is suitable for insulating houses from a bar, since according to the technology for weathering moisture, a ventilation duct is provided.

Today, many experts are of the opinion that insulating a house from the inside harms it more than benefits it. But there are ways to insulate a home that can really make it much more comfortable and cozy. But before choosing this type of insulation, it is better to understand what it is and why experts do not recommend it.

The essence and problems of internal insulation

When you insulate a house from the inside, you need to take into account some features.

Most experts really believe that it is worth insulating a house inside only in extreme cases, advising insulation outside. What is meant in this case by the word "inside"? This refers to the direct covering of the walls of the rooms with any materials. And if floors, ceilings and some other areas can be easily insulated, it is with wall insulation that a lot of problems arise.

The main difficulty is the transition of the wall surface to the cold zone. Usually, if there is no thermal insulation, warm air from the room passes through the walls, heating them. If you lay insulation from the inside, air masses will collide with them, not being able to go outside. In this case, all walls remain cold, and there is a risk of cracks.

For this reason alone, it is worth considering whether it is necessary to insulate a private house from the inside instead of thermal insulation from the outside. It makes sense: why waste money and your energy, if the result is only cracked walls and a cold room? But this is only part of the difficulty. In addition to damage to the insulated surfaces, there is condensation and other troubles that will appear in a minimum time, if at least a small mistake is made during the insulation work.

About building materials

Minvata, as a heater, is well suited for insulating a wooden house.

However, even in spite of all the shortcomings, it is increasingly being decided to insulate a wooden or brick private house from the inside. For the sake of warm winters and their comfort, the owners are ready to take risks. To reduce the likelihood of an unpleasant outcome, you need to carefully study the isolation technology, all its nuances.

Today, in all the variety of heaters, three can be especially distinguished:

extruded polystyrene foam (foam or foam);
mineral wool;
wood fiber boards.

The first two materials, widely used for insulating the facade of buildings from the outside, fit almost identically, but there are some subtleties in using the third option. That is why it is worth considering two ways to insulate a private house from the inside.

Wall covering with mineral wool and foam

Mineral wool and polystyrene are also suitable for insulating a brick house from the inside.

There are also two options for laying these materials. One of them, the standard one, repeats all the stages of wall insulation from the outside: laying the slabs on a previously cleaned surface, mechanical fixing, reinforcement and subsequent decoration. It is this method of insulation that leads to the problems described above. More condensation accumulates on the walls, cracks appear faster, plus the house loses footage, which can be used more successfully.

The second option for insulation with mineral wool or foam is the most successful. At the first stage, a special wooden or metal frame is made. It is in it that the insulation is laid. Perhaps this design is similar to the previous one, but there are differences that allow you to control what is happening inside, avoiding difficulties, because insulating materials are not mounted to the wall "tightly".

Advice! Removable panels can be created with the help of which it is easy to observe the occurrence of condensation and protect foam or mineral wool from it.

Fiber boards

Before starting work on insulating a panel house from the inside, study the technology.

Fiberboard is a fairly common material that is used for various purposes, including for decorating houses from the outside. It is better for them to insulate buildings because of their excellent insulating characteristics and the ability to absorb noise. Often, owners of private houses want not only to make a wooden or brick house warm, but also to protect it from extraneous sounds. Wood fiber boards are great for this, combining both properties and offering savings.

You can cut and process the edges of the slabs with any available tools, which makes the finishing options very diverse. Their installation is also very simple: it can be carried out correctly and by simple nailing with long (more than 35 mm) nails.

Advice! It is better to use 16-18 fasteners per slab.

Dural plates are installed under the nail heads. Driving should be done correctly in a checkerboard pattern.

Advice! It is better to drown the heads of the fasteners a little in the insulation so that they do not stick out.

Important! If the walls of the house are plastered, the fiberboard can not be nailed, but glued on PVA or special mastic.

The method of insulating the walls of a private house with wood fiber boards is quite good, but it also does not guarantee that problems will not arise in the future. That is why experts advise to insulate houses outside. But this method also has its merits. One of them is the possibility of laying inside the surface of electric cables.

Important! For cables, special grooves must be installed in advance.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling surface

Ceilings are almost always included in the complex of works on house insulation, since it is through the roof that a wooden or brick house loses a greater percentage of heat. It is quite difficult to insulate it correctly using the same fiberboard, since the material must be lifted and an aluminum support made for it.

About the floors

If the ceiling on the lower floor is well insulated, the floors on the second and subsequent floors will always stay warm. On the first floor, the floor must be properly insulated so that cold does not enter the house, especially if it is panel, from the basement.

All floor insulation options are also based on fiberboards, which in this case are used with other materials in a complex. For example, before laying fiberboard, you can close the floor with roofing felt, having previously dismantled the existing coating. If the owners do not have a desire to bother with this, they use the option with insulation outside with special carpets. A special substance is applied to them that retains dust and at the same time simplifies cleaning.

Important! When using carpets, fiberboard is still necessary. They are nailed to the floor, after which they are processed with an adhesive mass.

At the same time, the glue should be applied correctly not over the entire area, but in stripes several centimeters wide.

Advice! For better adhesion of surfaces, carpets can be pressed with boards for a day.

utepleniedoma.com

Insulation of the house from the inside - the correct order of work

If you properly insulate the house from the inside, you can significantly reduce the energy consumption for heating (especially in the northern regions). Therefore, it makes no sense to economize on this aspect. This article will discuss in detail how to do this procedure with your own hands.

We analyze the features of internal thermal insulation

You can endlessly talk about the advantages of facade insulation. However, this technique is not always available (for example, if the exterior decoration of the building has already been carried out). In such cases, you have to do work inside the house.

We are trying to find the advantages of the method

This technique has few positive qualities:

Simplicity - all work can be done without any problems with your own hands, because there is no need to create large "forests".
The ability to carry out work regardless of the season. Correct external insulation should be carried out at positive temperatures, in the absence of precipitation and low humidity. Work inside can be carried out under any conditions
Availability. You can do the work gradually. This is convenient in cases where a person does not have the opportunity to immediately start large-scale work, and with his own hands he plans to insulate the most important rooms at first, and not the entire building.

We analyze all the shortcomings

As for the negative aspects, there are plenty of them:

A significant reduction in the area of \ u200b \ u200bthe premises, especially if interior decoration is planned. Of course, you can make a small thickness of the thermal insulation layer, but this will negatively affect the efficiency.

Tip: Choose the right insulator size. In order not to be mistaken with the choice, take a look at online calculators or calculate the recommended thickness of the insulator with your own hands.

Condensation begins to form under the insulation at a faster rate. This is due to an incorrect dew point offset. How to fix this consequence with your own hands will be discussed in the next paragraph.
When insulated indoors, the walls will practically stop warming up. They will not participate in protecting the house from the cold, and most importantly, their operational period will begin to decline.
If you create frames inside the premises for laying the insulator, then this will inevitably lead to the formation of so-called "cold bridges". As a result, the effectiveness of the insulation will decrease.

Dew point problem

From this picture, you can easily understand the principle of this term.

The dew point is the place where moisture that comes out of the air begins to condense. This situation inevitably leads to the destruction of the walls (brick suffer the most) and the insulation material. Thermal insulation from the inside encourages the dew point to move closer to the room. However, the situation can be improved if a set of measures is taken:

Purchase insulators with very low vapor permeability and moisture absorption. As a result, moisture that accumulates inside the room will practically not get into the walls.

Tip: the most suitable option for this criterion is foamed polyurethane foam. However, its cost is relatively high.

When laying the insulator with your own hands, avoid joints. Even the smallest gaps will encourage condensation.
Install a one-sided vapor barrier. You can use a special membrane film.
Arrange the layers of insulation in order of increasing vapor permeability. That is, those materials for which this indicator is minimal should be located inside the room.

Step by step we disassemble the process of warming

The theoretical aspect has been studied, now it is time to practice. Most of the operations described below can be done without any problems with your own hands, even without having special skills.

How to properly prepare the surface

Preliminary procedures are the most time consuming and responsible stage. You will need to do the following:

Deal with the wiring. If it is inside the walls, it must be brought out. For this, junction boxes are located and wires are led from them to the outside (connection is made through special terminals). With external wiring (which is placed in special cable - channels) it is even easier - you just need to disassemble it.

Important! In the absence of skills in working with an electrician, it is better to invite a specialist in order to prevent fatal mistakes.

The next step is the leveling of the rough surface (the process of dismantling the finish is not considered). If the walls are brick or concrete, then a small layer of cement screed will help. Defects in wooden surfaces can be removed with a planer.
Further, dust and dirt are removed. In this case, do not wet the surface!
Now you need to thoroughly dry the walls to prevent mold and mildew. To do this, use thermal guns or convectors. These devices should work until all moisture has completely evaporated.
Then you should cover the surface with antiseptics, especially when it comes to a wooden structure.
When the impregnations are completely dry, a vapor barrier material is attached to the surface using a special moisture-resistant glue.

Create a strength frame

Now you need to build a frame of bars (their size should be no less than the estimated thickness of the insulating layer). In a wooden house, they are fixed immediately onto large self-tapping screws. For brick and concrete buildings, you will have to pre-drill holes and install a dowel - nails in them.

The distance between the bars is made to the size of the selected insulation - this makes the work easier. In addition to vertical logs, several more horizontal ones are installed, with a step of 1-1.5 meters. They are needed to ensure the maximum rigidity of the frame.

Insulator laying

The only thing left is to put the heat-insulating material into the niches that have appeared with the help of special glue. The following models are actively used for internal insulation:

Styrofoam. The cheapest analogue, which is characterized by low efficiency. It is permissible to use it only with an impressive wall thickness, or in warm regions.
Mineral wool. It is recommended to use the basalt variety, since it has a low thermal conductivity (in this segment it is second only to penoplex).
Penoplex. The most advanced thermal insulation material to date. It is very lightweight and therefore very easy to stack.

When laying, the presence of cracks is unacceptable. It is best to do two layers in a checkerboard pattern, as all joints will be reliably hidden.

Consider alternative options

The options presented above are not the only ones that are suitable for this task. 2 more methods are actively used:

Warm plasters - a special mixture is simply applied to the surface. Only suitable for thick brick or aerated concrete walls. There is no need for the construction of the frame and preliminary preparation.
Foamed polyurethane foam. It is applied like polyurethane foam. When using it, it is unnecessary to lay a vapor barrier material, since good adhesion to the surface is necessary. A frame is created with a large step (1-1.2 m). Polyurethane foam is sprayed into it and subsequently covered with some kind of sheet material.

remontami.ru

How to insulate a house from the inside: techniques and materials

In the conditions of domestic winter, the issue of additional insulation of housing is quite important for any owner of an apartment or private house. Moreover, in the second case, we are also talking about significant savings, since insulated walls will help reduce energy consumption for heating.

There are several ways to reduce the thermal conductivity of the enclosing structures with your own hands and, accordingly, to reduce heat loss and increase the temperature inside the premises. One of them is internal insulation.

Mineral wool

One of the most popular materials for insulating housing inside are various types of mineral wool. They are mounted using a frame system and lathing made of wooden beams. In this case, the crate should be narrower than sheets of mineral wool by 20-30 mm - this is the only way to ensure its tight entry between the beams with no gaps.

Cotton wool for insulation can be in the form of rolls, well suited for small rooms, or in sheets (option for a large room).

Application features

The main advantages of using mineral wool are:

high resistance to high temperatures and chemicals;
low thermal conductivity;
good sound insulation properties.

Among the disadvantages of the material, in addition to the fact that during installation, it should be handled very carefully (using a mask or respirator to protect against mineral wool dust), the main one is the need to cover it from the side of the room with sheets of drywall. This leads to the fact that the room will visually decrease in size.

Expanded polystyrene

Another common type of insulation is expanded polystyrene, sometimes used for interior decoration.

It can be extruded or foamed, although the differences are only in the way the materials are produced. Their properties are practically the same.

Advantages and disadvantages

The material owes its popularity to its low cost compared to most other heaters. For this reason, it is used quite often, insulating walls, ceilings and even facades of a private house or apartment. Moreover, it is suitable for both panel and brick buildings.

At the same time, using expanded polystyrene, it is worth knowing about a number of its disadvantages:

about a low operational life. Passport data indicate a maximum operational period of 20 years, however, under certain conditions, for example, with improper observance of the insulation technology, the period is reduced by half or even three times;
about contributing to the formation of mold under it, causing asthma and allergies. This is due to the almost complete airtightness of the material, which often leads to the appearance of fungal formations that are unfavorable to human health;
the release of hazardous gas in the event of fire. Styrofoam, although it does not burn, melts when ignited and emits black smoke and the very dangerous gas phosgene, leading to respiratory paralysis.

Polyurethane foam

The choice of foamed polyurethane as insulation ensures the creation of a moisture-resistant and heat-tight barrier inside an apartment or house. Although applying it is quite problematic.

In order for the foamed liquid, which is originally a material, to solidify as evenly as possible and to have the required thickness, formwork is used, and the space is not filled immediately with the entire volume of foam, but in parts.

To improve the protective properties of the material, a water protection is installed in the form of a polyethylene film, which is attached to the enclosing structures of the room with slats and sealant.

To avoid finishing and plastering of polyurethane foam, which it cannot withstand, a special plasterboard wall is being erected. And also such a design will protect the surface of the insulation from the formation of condensation on it.

Pros and cons of the material

The main advantage of the material over the others is the achievement of maximum adhesion to the wall and the provision of better thermal insulation properties.

However, due to the fact that polyurethane foam does not form a layer on a vertical surface very well, it is more often used to insulate horizontal structures. For example, floors of attic rooms and basements, as well as roof slopes.

Using a double wall

Another interesting option for ensuring comfortable temperature conditions in your home can be the installation of a double wall. In this case, elements of "warm floor" are used, mounted inside the outer wall.

To improve the appearance of vertical structures from above, the heaters are covered with plasterboard or a second wall ½ brick thick. And insulation (any) is attached from the outside of the plasterboard partition.

Possible nuances

The option with a double wall and one of the insulation chosen by the owner of the home is suitable for the period of severe frosts, when such thermal protection prevents both dampness and destruction of the walls. The disadvantages in this case are the reduced area of the room and the significant electricity bills.

Cork wallpaper

Wallpaper made of natural cork, obtained by crushing and pressing the bark of cork trees, is a new and rather effective finishing material used for insulation.

They are distinguished by high environmental friendliness and versatility, since they can be varnished and remain uncoated, while retaining their porous surface.

Should you use it?

The advantages of the material include:

high fireproof, antibacterial, as well as heat and sound insulation properties;
long service life exceeding 20 years;
ease of installation and further maintenance.

Prepare the surface for gluing them even more carefully than when painting or using the most ordinary wallpaper.

Do not think that the thickness of the material will hide the flaws of the walls. Cork wallpaper is not capable of this.

The durability of the coating can be a disadvantage. Over time, wanting to update the interior with his own hands, the owner of the apartment will be faced with the impossibility of either painting the wallpaper from the cork or sticking it over. It will also be difficult to remove them from the wall, especially in this case you will have to look for a new insulation.

Additional insulation

In addition to using the listed materials, the walls inside the room are additionally insulated in the following ways:

"Warm plaster";
liquid agents (suspensions);
vapor barrier films.

"Warm" plaster, containing not sand, but crushed polystyrene foam, is very quickly applied to the surface and sets in the same shortest time. In addition, it has high thermal insulation properties - 5 cm of such material will be replaced by two rows of bricks. And such advantages of plaster as vapor permeability ensure good condensation in the house and, accordingly, a healthy atmosphere.

Thanks to special liquid preparations with antifungal and anti-corrosion properties, it is possible to increase the thermal insulation properties of surfaces. If you apply such material not in one layer, but in two or three, you can replace the 10-centimeter layer of mineral wool. It successfully resists the suspension and the effects of heat radiation.

In order to reduce the effect of moisture on heaters, they are protected with vapor barrier films.

Summarizing

Of course, you can save on heating a private house with interior decoration. Moreover, this is exactly what many property owners do, hiring specialists for insulation or doing work with their own hands. However, over time, the insulation ceases to fulfill its functions, and the structures protected with its help begin to freeze almost more than before. Why is this happening - after all, the most modern and popular materials were used for insulation?

The cause of the problem lies in the very method of insulation - internal, and, therefore, providing a minimum result. When the insulation is placed in a room, the dew point (the place where condensation forms) shifts towards the room - due to the lower (tenfold) thermal conductivity compared to brick or concrete. Thus, moisture is formed not inside the enclosing structure, where it would bring almost no harm, but inside the insulating material. The walls become damp, mold begins to appear, and the wallpaper pasted on top turns black.

Outside insulation, which is used much more often than interior decoration, and provides better indoor conditions, is much more effective. Using this method of keeping warm in the house prevents the structures from "sweating" and the appearance of fungus.

And also insulation from the outside allows you to close up those joints and cracks that would be impossible to reach from the inside. Internal placement of insulating materials is possible only in a number of cases when external work is impractical - for example, it is impossible to change the facade of a building by the decision of the authorities, or there is an elevator or part of an expansion joint behind the wall.

x-teplo.ru

How to insulate walls from the inside in a private house useful tips

Many experts today believe that if you insulate a house from the inside, it will harm it more than benefit it. But expert opinions differ.

There are many ways to insulate your home that can make your home feel cozier and more comfortable. Before choosing this method of insulation, you need to figure out what this type is.

There are some features that must always be considered when insulating a house. Only in extreme cases is it possible to insulate the house inside, making insulation outside.

How is the word “inside” to be understood? Here we mean that the walls are directly covered with some materials. If ceilings, or floors, or any other areas are insulated without problems, then a lot of fuss can arise with the insulation of the walls. The main difficulty is when the wall surface goes into a cold zone.

In general, when there is no thermal insulation, the walls are heated by the warm air that passes from the room. And if you put a heater inside, then air masses will collide with it, which will not be able to go outside. So there is a risk of cracks and all walls in such cases will be cold.

This is one of the reasons that it is worth considering the question: instead of thermal insulation from the outside, should a private house be insulated from the inside? There is a logical answer: it is not worth spending energy and money, because as a result, you can still get a cold room and cracked walls. This is part of the difficulty ...

And, if you do not make even small mistakes, then you can forget about poor insulation of surfaces.

Materials for wall insulation from the inside in a private house

Let's talk about building materials.

Suitable for a wooden house as a good mineral wool insulation.

In general, heaters are diverse, for example:

extruded polystyrene foam (foam board),
fibreboards
and mineral wool.

For buildings outside and insulation of the facade, the first two materials are used. But mivata and polystyrene often insulate a private house from the inside. These two materials are also suitable for insulation from the inside of a brick house.

These materials have two different styling options.

The first option for laying mivata and foam

The first is standard. He insulates the walls outside the technique.

First, the plates are laid on the surface, which must be prepared and cleaned in advance, then the plates are mechanically fixed, reinforcement is done and, at the end, decoration.

The second option for laying mivata and foam

The second - this option of insulation with foam and mineral wool is the most successful.

First, the first stage takes place, at which a special metal or wooden frame is made. The insulation is laid in it. This design is somewhat similar to the previous one.

The only difference is that insulating materials are not "firmly" mounted to the wall. This avoids the difficulty of controlling what is happening inside. Advice! To protect mineral wool or foam from condensation, you need to create removable panels.

Fiberboard

Fiber-wood boards are used for insulation work from the inside of a panel house. This material is also used to decorate the outside of the house, but in general it is used for very different purposes.

It has excellent insulation performance and noise absorption. Very often, the owners of wooden or brick houses want to protect them from sounds. Fiberboard is great for this. Since they combine two properties, this makes it possible to save money.

Plates are treated with antiseptic agents, and are poisonous to insects and rodents. Such plates are not affected by air humidity and temperature changes.

Plates are cut with any materials at hand. The edges are also processed. This makes the finish very versatile.

Installation is done by simple nailing.

Advice! 14-16 fasteners can be used on one plate. Only in a staggered manner it is necessary to drive. Dural plates are used under the nail heads.

The complex of works also includes ceilings, because a large percentage of heat is lost through the roof. It is also insulated with wood fiber boards. But they need to be raised on an aluminum support.

Advice! So that the heads of the nails do not stick out, they must be slightly drowned in insulation. Important! Plates do not need to arrive. They can be glued onto special mastic if the walls are plastered.

In addition to all this, it is necessary to insulate the floors on the first floor, especially if the cold comes from the basement and if the house is panel. To insulate the floor, slabs are also used, but in combination with roofing felt.

If the owners do not want to bother with it, then you can use insulation outside with special carpets. Cleaning is facilitated by the application of a special substance that retains dust.

The methods of insulating the walls of private houses from the inside are quite good, but they do not guarantee that problems will not arise in the future. Therefore, in addition to insulation from the inside, the house needs to be insulated outside.

How to insulate walls from the inside in a private house from foam blocks

Houses made of foam blocks have quite good heat-retaining properties, but in harsh climatic conditions, such houses may require additional insulation.

So how to insulate the walls from the inside in a private house? Insulation in residential buildings is usually carried out from the inside, but it is simply impossible to perform the cladding in this way. Sometimes homeowners do not want to disturb the attractive appearance of the house. It also happens that a structure is attached to buildings that is not heated, or a building is located nearby.

Therefore, for many who own a personal plot, the important question is how to insulate the wall from the inside. In a private home, this procedure is simple, and a variety of materials can be used.

Insulators

Mineral wool. Ordinary basalt insulator or fiberglass is used, which is less harmful to human health;
Expanded polystyrene. The price of this material is higher than mineral wool, but insulation will probably not cost much more. Since when using expanded polystyrene there is no need to install the frame. But it must be borne in mind that this material is more harmful than mineral wool;
Polyurethane foam. This material is environmentally friendly, but such insulation is expensive. When applying it, it is necessary to use special equipment, and therefore it will not be possible to perform insulation with polyurethane foam on your own.

Insulator selection

Today the most popular insulator is basalt wool. In its production, stone fiber is used, which is impregnated with resins.

This material is considered harmful, since phenol-formaldehyde is present in the resin.

If you have made a choice in the polish of basalt wool, then the main attention should be paid to its quality and brand. Good characteristics are present in Ursa basalt wool and its price is reasonable.

Fiberglass wool is considered safer, but it is not completely environmentally friendly either. In this case, it is best to buy the highest quality material, a good option is "Izover" or the same "Ursa", but now fiberglass.

Expanded polystyrene should be used if the walls are smooth and even inside the room. Plates are installed on glue and without using a frame.