Methods for processing chipboard from moisture. How to cover and process chipboard from moisture

Chipboard is one of the most affordable building materials, so many are interested in the question of how to soak this material from moisture? And, if in the summer time the ingress of moisture on the floor has a low probability, then in winter it is formed in any case. In this article, we will give good advice about how and with what to impregnate chipboard from moisture?

Oil varnish or drying oil

V Soviet times the best way was, and now - special impregnating substances. Naturally, this does not mean that drying oil cannot continue to be used as protective agent from moisture. It is allowed to use it, but to achieve high level protection is almost impossible. Yes, and you need a large amount of the mixture, while the working procedure will have to be done several times.

Polyurethane Blend

One of the most popular means for processing chipboard is a polyurethane mixture, which is similar in composition to a primer. The impregnation is based on organic solvents and polymers, which, during processing, penetrate deep into the pores of the material. At the same time, the strength level building material increases significantly.

Nitrocellulose varnish

There is another way to protect chipboard from moisture - nitrocellulose varnish. Its protective effect is similar to polyurethane varnish: it forms a kind of protective covering on the surface of the product, preventing the penetration of moisture, while the resistance to damage is equivalent to the maximum rate. A significant advantage of nitrocellulose varnish over its predecessor is the application of the substance without pre-training workplace, but for best results, we strongly recommend priming the chipboard.

In order to significantly protect products from chipboard, you need to use a combined method of protection. It is best if it not only consists of a deep penetration impregnation step, but also includes the application of additional paints and varnishes.

For more than half a century, laying chipboard on the floor has been relevant for finishing floor covering. Continuous improvement of technology and technological processes improves the structure and improve the quality of chipboard.

The plate has become durable, moisture resistant, environmentally friendly. And if we take into account that the basis of the panel is woodworking waste, then in terms of price-quality, the plate is out of competition with other finishing materials. Like a subfloor, a chipboard base will last for decades, extending the life of the flooring.

Characteristics and use of chipboard

The slab is made from sawmill waste, carpentry and furniture woodworking; shavings, sawdust, chips. The product uses wood-shaving material of coniferous and hardwood, and a polymeric thermosetting resin based on phenol-formaldehyde is used to bond the wood particles.

The quality of the panel depends on the dosage of the resin when applied to the wood particles, the lack or excess of the binder leads to the rejection of the product. In the manufacturing process, the boards are sanded, laminated, laminated and veneer is applied.

These panels can be finished not only on floors, but also on walls and ceilings.

By use, chipboard products are divided into general-purpose and special-purpose boards (made to order).

Construction panels are used in the decoration of walls, indoor ceilings, and chipboard is laid on the floor as top coat or black base.

According to the properties that determine the use of chipboard products, the panels belong to the P-A and P-B grades, distinguished by physical and mechanical indicators.

Chipboard properties

According to their physical and mechanical properties, chipboard belonging to the groups P - A and P - B, depending on the components used and additives to binder resins, differ in density, strength and water resistance to swelling.

Products of the P - A brand are used for finishing in residential premises, where the release of phenol and formaldehyde from the boards, harmful to human health, does not exceed the norm.

Panels with increased selection harmful substances are used on objects as auxiliary materials or temporary structures.

Chipboard characteristic

According to the properties of chipboard, they are chosen for finishing various objects. When choosing, it is important to find out everything about the panel manufacturer and view product certificates, which reflect laboratory testing of samples. The table shows the indicators of physical and mechanical properties of constantly produced products.

When choosing chipboard for use in a house or apartment, we check the product for the presence of phenol and formaldehyde in the composition of resins in order to prevent the use of panels with harmful emissions.

Draft floor from chipboard on logs

In damp rooms, particle boards quickly become unusable

Usage particle board, as a base for flooring, is justified economically and technically. But, using panels, we take into account the operating conditions of products. In a room where the humidity is above 60% and the temperature is below 10°C, the plates swell and collapse.

This also applies to laying panels on the concrete floor of the first floors. multi-storey buildings. And the draft floor is made of chipboard on the logs, the right decision for long-term operation of plates. The base of the slabs raised above the concrete creates a flat surface on which the coating will last no less than the standard period.

Work order

Chipboard laying scheme

Before laying the logs, we prepare the concrete floor, level the surface concrete screed. We lay the beams on concrete and connect them with jumpers into a rigid frame.

A heater is laid between the lags and lintels, which, together with the chipboard flooring, creates heat and sound insulation of the base. It is easy to assemble a rough floor from chipboard with your own hands, given the procedure for step-by-step instructions:

After dismantling the old floor, we level the surface of the concrete base along the exposed beacons with a concrete mix screed.
Apply a primer to the dried screed and check laser level the horizontal surface of the base. Then unfolds polyethylene film for guard wooden frame with insulation from the dampness of concrete. Lay the rows of film overlap and connect with adhesive tape.
Logs and lintels are covered with an antiseptic solution and mounted on a concrete floor. The step between the lags is 400 mm. The section of the log is T-shaped, to increase the surface of the beam when joining panels. The top board, 100 mm wide, is attached to the beam from above and is the basis for joining the plates.
Between themselves, the logs are connected by jumpers, which are attached to the logs with metal corners and screws. Assembled structure checked by a level for the horizontalness of each log. In case of horizontal deviation, they are placed under the logs plastic plates in sagging places.
After installation, the structure of the beams is filled with insulation, on a pre-laid waterproofing film. The insulation is laid between the lags, with a gap of 3 cm to the upper edge of the structure.
The laid insulation boards are covered vapor barrier film, which is attached to the lags with stapler staples. The joints of the film rows are sealed with adhesive tape so that moisture does not penetrate into the insulation.
Chipboard for the floor is laid on logs according to the scheme prepared during the creation of the project. The floor of the slabs is laid in a checkerboard pattern, the joining of the panels is carried out on logs spaced according to the size of the chipboard sheets. The first row of plates spreads along the wall opposite the entrance to the room and is fixed to the beams with self-tapping screws. So that the hardware does not protrude above the panels, the holes in the products for the screws are drilled and countersunk. The second row is laid with an offset to the span between the lags, a panel is cut out to the left area to fit the span. The remaining rows are stacked in the same sequence in a checkerboard pattern. The draft floor is laid with a compensating gap of 1.5 cm from the walls, which is affected by the changing humidity in the room.
After completing the assembly of products, the joints of the panels are rubbed with putty and the surface of the flooring is primed. Along the perimeter of the room, along the walls, the expansion gap is closed with a plinth. The plinth is fixed to the walls of the room. For information on how to mount the coating on the logs, see this video:
A strong and rigid frame made of beams and lintels, tightly pressed against the walls of the room and is not attached to concrete base anchors.

The use of a frame made of beams, for the base of the floor covering, allows you to separate the chipboard flooring from concrete floor and insulate the floor, keeping the heat in the room.

Chipboard floor on wooden base

Leveling a chipboard floor is not difficult
Any flooring is laid on a wooden floor, but floors laid on a reliable and even base will be able to serve the standard period. This base is old restored floor slats or chipboard.

Leveling a chipboard floor is a simple task and is done on your own. Getting started with the repair of the old wooden base. We check the logs and floor slats for the presence of rot, wormholes, mechanical damage and replace the defective ones. We cover the logs with an antiseptic solution, we rally the floor boards so that there are no gaps left.

We stretch the wooden coating with an electric planer, remove old paint and level the surface. After checking the horizontalness of the surface with a laser level, the base is primed.

Logs for the base frame and floor board for flooring are used with a humidity of not more than 12%. Before installation, the materials are treated with an antiseptic.

Laying chipboard on the floor, the prepared old floor covering from the floor lath, is carried out according to the scheme, which reflects the estimated number of plates. The layout of the panels on the floor of the room is made in a checkerboard pattern and provides for a compensation gap of 1.5 cm of chipboard flooring from the walls of the room.

Before assembling the flooring under the chipboard, we lay a jute underlay to level out the errors of the wooden base and maintain air exchange between the paneling and the wooden floor. We begin the installation of chipboard on the floor by processing the plates with drying oil and drilling holes on the panels for fixing screws, we cover the edges of the plates silicone sealant.

Plates are laid from the far corner
We lay the plates from the corner of the wall opposite the entrance to the room, compressing the rows of laid out panels with wedges. Plates of the first row through the prepared holes with self-tapping screws are attached to wooden floor with a gap of 1.5 cm from the wall.

So that the joints of the plates do not coincide in the rows, we lay the 2nd row with a shift by half the plate. We cut one plate in half and apply sealant to the ends. We lay half of the plates at the beginning and end of the row. We compress the row with mounting wedges and fasten the panels with self-tapping screws to the wooden base.

We lay the rest of the chipboard in a checkerboard pattern. If it is provided for in the scheme, then we cut off the last row of plates in order to lay them tightly against the wall. At the end of the laying of the flooring, we close the expansion gap with a plinth, fasten it to the walls of the room. For information on how to level the floor with slabs of this material, see this video:
If the chipboard coating was provided as a front one, then we cover the plates with two layers of wear-resistant varnish and after the varnish has dried, the coating is ready for use. And if it was planned to use the flooring from the plates as a subfloor, then we lay laminate or linoleum on it.

For the long-term operation of the floor covering, a base made of concrete, a frame of beams or a floor board is carried out without deviating from the step-by-step instructions.

Welcome to ! Perhaps you are familiar with the situation when kitchen set from water turns into a pile of firewood. The laminate becomes loose and loses its original shape. The cause of the damage should be eliminated and the damaged ones replaced; there is no other way to save the headset.

risk zone

And in order to prevent such a situation, it is important to perform simple steps during assembly. First of all, we protect the cabinet under the sink and the cabinet with the dishwasher, the modules are in direct contact with water. In the latter, it is desirable to install frame facades with a grate for air circulation.

The risk zone also includes cabinets with a dishwasher and washing machine. I recommend making the case of such modules from a moisture-resistant material. If the situation does not allow this, then we will use a sanitary, transparent sealant. This is a reliable protection against moisture in your kitchen.

Sealant transparent

For more than 10 years of experience with him, there was no way to doubt his reliability. But unfortunately in stores there is along with good and low-quality goods. In order to check the properties of the sealant, you need to leave a drop at room temperature for three hours.

If the drop solidifies well (has a rubber-like consistency), then you have purchased a quality product. If the drop does not retain its shape (leaves marks on the hands), then the setting time will have to be increased to a minimum of 12 hours.

Before assembling modules

Before assembling modules that fall into the risk zone, it is necessary to carefully coat with silicone all non-edged ends on the parts. And then, while the sealant is not frozen, proceed with the assembly. In this way, you can protect parts that are inaccessible to hands, but accessible to water.

Pay attention to the design of the cabinet with the dishwasher. If it has aluminum slats, then everything is in order. If not, then in no case do we make these parts from laminated chipboard, because they will be rattled beyond recognition. For these purposes, you need to use wooden planks.

Within walking distance from you, located according to the calculation of cabinet furniture.

Moisture protection for countertops

We turn to the protection of the main part - the countertop. Moisture-resistant countertops look great, but the manufacturer gives a guarantee only for a solid countertop. In the event that you sawed it, which you definitely have to do, then there is no guarantee that it will not swell from moisture.

Be sure to silicone the end of the countertop before fastening the connecting strip. And we do not spare silicone, remove the excess with a damp cloth. Postforming (front rounded end) has a drip tray that prevents water from entering the lower cabinets. There is nothing to worry about here.

The only thing I would recommend is during installation to make a slight roll of the countertop in terms of level not to the wall, but to the hostess. For a spontaneous stack of water from the countertop. And in order to completely eliminate the penetration of water, I will tell you how I mount the wall plinth on the countertop.

My method of moisture protection

First of all, I lay a layer of silicone between the wall and the countertop. Then I draw the base of the skirting board. in two places. And only then I fix the front part of the plinth. Water will not slip through such protection, it is checked!

Layer at the junction of false panels and countertops

Layer at the junction of the base with a false panel and a layer at the junction with the countertop

And only then the front part

Washing

Installation must be carried out with great care and patience. When buying, be sure to pay attention to the locks and tongues on the sink to which they are attached. Locks should be fixed, i.e. it should be possible to snap on the tongues, and not just cling.

Locks play a major role in the installation of the sink and the life of the entire headset depends on the fasteners. And therefore, without fuss, we carry out washes. We carefully coat the drank and put it around the perimeter good layer. After fixing the sink, remove the excess with a damp cloth.

In a similar way, we mount and hob. Similarity is expressed in a sufficient amount of sealant. I carefully coat the drink, also a layer around the perimeter. After connecting to the communications, we put the cooking. After 12 hours, it will not be possible to tear it off the countertop.

Plinth protection

If the kitchen plinth is not plastic, but made of laminate, then trim (put on, fasten) on the lower edge of the plinth. It will reliably protect the lower part of the part from moisture, because it is on the floor that wet attacks on the headset occur.

After installation, do not connect the water immediately. We wait at least 12 hours for all joints to freeze. It's not scary if you made a big puddle on the countertop - wipe it off and forget it. It is important not to leave water on the countertop overnight. Elementary accuracy will prolong the life of your furniture.

Conclusion

These are all recommendations for preventing trouble from a swollen kitchen. If your headset is already swollen, then it can only be cured with a “surgical” method. Be careful not to leave modules and work surface wet at night. And then your favorite cuisine will delight you for decades.

If you need detailing of cabinet and built-in furniture, please contact us. We will certainly discuss the terms of cooperation and come to a consensus. For a moderate percentage for my labor, I, on time.

What would you like to add to this article?

Tell me about your experience in the comments.

I would love to hear your stories!

With good thoughts about you, always in sawdust 🙂

Rekun Dmitry.

The adhesive tape prevents splitting of the surface layer of the board during sawing. hand saw should be set at the maximum angle.

The jagged edge is a sad sight. It is especially striking on plates painted white.

Chips and artificial resin create a strong bond when pressed, but with a certain processing of the plate, the chips can split. For example, along the edge of the cut, at the place of drilling, when planing and rasping. The fibers natural wood longer and stronger connected to each other. This is why particle board needs to be handled more carefully.

How to cut chipboard

For these purposes, almost any saw will do. Only you need to lead it under very acute angle to the surface of the plate, that is, by placing the saw almost flat against the surface. Guide the circular saw and bow saw with a slight feed, with only light pressure. This will also reduce the risk of a brittle cut line. It is advisable, of course, to use a saw with the smallest teeth. Additional protection can also be an adhesive tape that is pulled along the cut line. This is generally recommended for coated particle board.

One more tip: drink without haste. Excessive haste can lead to such a result that the uneven, chipped edge of one part forms an ugly joint with another. By the way, the coating can be protected from splitting if you cut it with a sharp knife - the deeper, the better.

Drilling, rasping and planing

Drills that are dull or running at limited speed tend to split the edges of the hole being drilled. Only by choosing a good drill, and correctly leading the tool, you can avoid damage.

With an even clean cut additional processing not required. But Circular Saw may leave bumps that need to be removed with a rasp or planer.

The rasp (or planer) is carefully guided along the edge, as when working with wood, and from outside to the inside so that the chips do not break out, and the edge after stripping does not seem even more sloppy.

For plates covered with film, a planer is more suitable. Those who find working with a planer too difficult can use a file.

Surface treatment

There are two ways to decorate the surface of wood products and chipboards - varnishing or cladding. Lacquered, as a rule, wooden surfaces, chipboards for aesthetic reasons - extremely rare, only when it is necessary to "ennoble" a not very impressive appearance slab or finished product.

Before varnishing, the surface should be puttied.

Even a factory-sanded particle board surface needs to be puttied and sanded before being varnished. Tiny, barely noticeable damage can be clearly visible under the varnish film, and this will only worsen the appearance of the product.

Putty is applied evenly with a spatula, and after drying, the surface is treated with sandpaper. This preparatory work an absolutely flat surface should become, and then one layer of varnish is enough to form a flawless film.

If any errors are found after applying the varnish, then the surface should be lightly sanded with sandpaper before re-coating.

Glue the cover.

The choice of coatings for particle boards is very large. Those who have special requests regarding color, it is better to use the film.

Films are produced in a wide range color scheme and with a variety of decor, in addition, they are usually treated with an adhesive composition, which simplifies the work on finishing the plates. Since the film coating is very thin, the bearing surface must first be carefully sanded before stretching the film.

Sheet laminate, thicker and more wear resistant. It is glued with special glue, which is applied to the bearing surface of the plate and to the coating.

The laminate coating makes the particle board attractive and at the same time protects it from various influences.

Surface protection

If you bought or made furniture from chipboard, the composition of which is unknown to you, then it is better to take additional measures to protect your health.

Lacquer protection.

Formaldehyde fumes can be stopped by recoating the furniture. This layer should be thick enough. So, lacquer coating, at least two layers prevents further evaporation of formaldehyde.

Films and sheet laminates also protect the surface. Here you need to pay attention to the joints: they should be as dense as possible.

Plywood can also become a protective material, but not any. Some types of plywood are made using an adhesive composition in which the same formaldehyde is present. Therefore, it is desirable to process plywood and varnish it.

Matter and wallpaper.

Matter and wallpaper are absolutely unsuitable materials for protection against formaldehyde emissions. They are porous and therefore cannot serve as reliable protection.

Carpeting, as well as the adhesive used to install it, can also release formaldehyde. If an increased concentration of fumes hazardous to health is found by the relevant authorities during the inspection, it is necessary to find out what kind of material is the source before blaming the chipboard for everything and starting new processing their surfaces.

edges

A narrow strip of plastic is applied to the edge. The iron promotes bonding.

The cut of chipboard does not look very beautiful, and, more importantly, it exposes the loose, most vulnerable inner layer. Also, with impact and strong pressure, the edges of the cut can be damaged. Therefore, the edge must be protected.

The simplest, but in most cases quite reliable protection is to stick with a not very hot iron. plastic tape With adhesive coating or veneer plate.

Wooden planks.

The edges of the slab, which are subjected to the greatest loads, need to be better defense. Thin planks of wood will help to ensure it. In color, they should be in harmony with the coating of the plate. After gluing the planks separately or together with the plate, they must be varnished or some other protective compound.

Even a 5mm bar is an effective edge protector. A wider bar will also prevent the slab from sagging.

Low cost chipboard, high performance characteristics, versatility of application made them a very popular material. The most common areas of application are furniture manufacturing and construction. The main enemy of these plates is water - the chips increase in volume, the plate swells, warps and crumbles.

Even at the very beginning of manufacturing, sawdust and shavings after drying are impregnated with formaldehyde resins. After pressing, the surface of the plates is laminated, sometimes even varnished.

But the surface protection does not save the ends from the penetration of moisture through which it enters. Accumulating inside, water gradually begins to penetrate into the wood fibers, which leads to the destruction of the plate. Therefore, the ends must be saved from liquid penetration during operation.

If they are tightly sealed, the service life of the plates will increase significantly.

In the photo - the effects of water on a chipboard countertop

Why exactly the ends are the launching pad for destruction? Yes, because the production of plates is necessary standard sizes, as well as the preparation of different-sized pieces of material, requires cutting. In this case, the integrity of the wood fibers is violated.

Thus, the protection of chipboard from moisture is carried out in three directions:

impregnation of wood fibers with resins;
special surface treatment;
end sealing.

The first step towards moisture resistance

Already at the beginning chipboard production a process is carried out to protect them from water penetration - the so-called chip gumming. Thanks to this operation, two goals are achieved - the saturation of the fibers with resins and their bonding. For most of the manufactured boards, formaldehyde resins are used, which by definition are already a hydrophobic component of the product.

Green blotches in chipboard - special water-repellent components

In cases where even greater moisture resistance is required from the plates, another binder is used, that is, formaldehyde resin is replaced with urea-melamine. It glues the chips together much stronger, thereby being a stronger barrier to moisture. With the additional introduction of molten paraffin or its emulsion into the particle carpet, the moisture resistance of chipboard increases even more.

Plate surface treatment

The front and back surfaces of the plate, as the most large areas contact, without any protection, they can pass through themselves and absorb, respectively, the largest amount of liquid. It will not be superfluous to cover these planes with something moisture-proof. Some of the methods of such coating are possible only in the factory, some - and at home.

One of the main methods of protection is lamination. With it, on a polished chipboard with high pressure and a high temperature, a melamine film is laid. The essence of this process is not in pressing, but in the fact that under these conditions the film polymerizes the surface of the plate, becoming one with it.

There is another method performed in the factory - this is caching. Pressure and heat are also applied here, but more sparingly. The already hardened film is pressed against the adhesive-coated plate. If lamination is chemical process, then laminating is mechanical.

Components of laminated chipboard

At home, unlaminated chipboard is often coated with several layers of paint for protection. Pre-treat the surface before painting:

dust is carefully swept away and erased from the surface;
for the first time, the plate is smeared with hot drying oil;
then this is done with cold drying oil until the outer crust is formed;
the top is painted. With any painting method, it must be remembered that each subsequent layer of paint is applied to the already dried previous one.

There are several other ways to protect against getting wet. For example, a surface that will not be subjected to mechanical stress can be protected as follows: rub with stearin, then heat with a hairdryer. Let cool and repeat this a couple more times. Or: one part of bituminous varnish is mixed with five parts of drying oil. Coverage is carried out twice.

Seam and edge processing

Water is always looking for the lowest place, the depression.

And what, if not a recess, are the joints on horizontal planes? There are especially many such joints in cabinet furniture, which is made just from chipboard. Kitchen furniture is in general, as on the front line: there is plenty of water and enough fumes.

How to treat plywood, chipboard and wood to protect it from moisture?

The sink, drying cabinet, countertop, furniture near and above the stove are most susceptible to moisture.

Faucets all start leaking at some point. So in the sink, the most promising dangerous place is where the mixer crashes into the countertop. This is the point of contact between metal and wood. It is possible not only for the tap to leak, but also for water to condense at the point of contact. Therefore, this place is cleaned, dried with a hairdryer. Next, a layer of PVA glue is applied, after which it dries - silicone. Can construction sealant, this is also a silicone mass, it even prevents leakage window frames seal.

The edge not only protects the chipboard from moisture, but also reduces emissions of harmful substances.

In the cupboard, you should check the presence or absence of a pallet: if it is not there, then the liquid, draining to the bottom of the cabinet, will ruin it. For all kitchen furniture, where it is possible to get wet, one must make it a rule: degrease this place and then do not spare the sealant.

To seal the seams, it is better to use sanitary silicone of a suitable shade: dark mold spots will not appear on the surface.

The non-laminated edges of the tabletop are closed with connecting or end strips. They are metal or plastic. The protection is not so hot, so the end of the countertop should first be treated with silicone. Another way to protect is to apply furniture varnish or PVA glue to the place of the cut. Suggested construction market self-adhesive films or adhesive tape cannot be called reliable protection.

Sealing chipboard joints on the floor

The difficulty lies in the fact that on the floor the slabs are constantly exposed to significant physical activity, they "play" relative to each other. For this reason, the putty does not want to stick. There are several folk ways sealing such seams.

The seams are covered with epoxy mixed with sawdust. Sawdust is pre-sifted finely. The composition seizes very quickly, so immediately large volume it is not worth preparing such a putty. Such protection serves for a long time and reliably. But the price of epoxy is high, and grouting is expensive.

You can replace the epoxy with hot wood glue. It is necessary to knead sawdust in it and go through the seams.

The effect is even greater than with epoxy, as hot glue penetrates deep inside. This method also saves from moisture, and the joint stops “playing”. True, it is advisable not to walk on such a floor for several days, since carpentry glue dries for a long time.

This method is much cheaper. And if the floor is still covered with linoleum on top, then about damage chipboard boards can generally be forgotten.

How to protect chipboard panels from moisture

Until now, chipboard has been widely used in repairs. After all, these plates are universal. They are suitable for leveling walls, ceilings, laying dry screed, creating interior partitions etc. But, if chipboard is planned to be installed in the kitchen or bathroom, certain measures should be taken to protect it from moisture. What methods are available in this case? The main approaches will be discussed below.

1. Treatment of chipboard with drying oil

Of the most simple methods should be called the application of drying oil on a chipboard. Most often, this method is used when the chipboard is planned to be laid on the floor when creating a rough screed. Drying oil is applied to the main part of the plates in two layers. On the ends of chipboard boards, drying oil should be applied at least three times, since in these areas it will be especially intensively absorbed.

To increase the moisture resistance of chipboard panels, you can add a little bituminous varnish to the drying oil. Enough 1 part of varnish for 5 parts of drying oil.

2. Painting chipboard boards with PVA glue

It will be possible to increase the waterproof performance of a particle board if it is coated with PVA glue. This method is used in almost any situation. That is, a plate treated in this way can be used to level surfaces and install partitions. But you can start work only after the glue is completely dry.

It is desirable that the panels are also processed at least twice. Moreover, adhesive composition can play the role of a primer, so in the future it will be easier to apply plaster, putty or paint.

Chipboard impregnation - odor protection

Pasting chipboard with a protective film

Another successful way to protect chipboard from moisture is gluing a special protective film. It not only protects the material from contact with moisture, but further improves its appearance. That is, the self-adhesive film also performs a decorative function. It remains for the owner to choose a suitable sample and stick it correctly. To do this, the panel should be cleaned of dirt and dust, eliminate protective layer from the film and glue it. On the ends are installed special decorative corners with waterproof properties.

Each method has its own advantages. And the owner, who manages to do the job correctly, will receive chipboard panels that are reliably protected from moisture. Then finished material it will be possible to use it when working even in those rooms that are not distinguished by the most favorable operating conditions.

To process the countertop, or rather, I drank it under the hob, you can wash it with the help of metal tape. The effect is just class, the countertop will probably grow old faster.

How to protect the legs of cabinets from chipboard from moisture?

BUT, as always, there is a BUT. The material is easily vulnerable, and rather (carefully-attentively) labor-intensive, maybe for this reason we don’t particularly like the assemblers, or maybe someone doesn’t know. As they say, the eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing it.

P.S. the base of the adhesive tape is aluminum foil.

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Drying oils are paint-and-lacquer film-forming materials based on processed vegetable oils. The composition of natural drying oils includes exclusively drying vegetable oils(linen, hemp, sometimes added sunflower oil) and desiccants. Desiccants are manganese, cobalt, lead salts of carboxylic acids, which accelerate the drying process. Organic solvents are added to the composition of semi-natural drying oils - white spirit, ski *****, solovent oil. Oxidized drying oils are obtained by heating linseed or hemp oil to 150-160 degrees with stirring and passing desiccants through them. Such drying oils have a higher viscosity, increased durability, gloss, more dark color than natural ones. Compacted drying oils, unlike natural ones, are obtained with a longer heat treatment at a temperature of about 300 degrees.

Fungus develops over time on silicone coatings.

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How to protect chipboard from water?

Paul July 21, 2004 16:35:58	Good day! there was a problem - the chipboard frame of the kitchen swelled from leakage. The edges were laminated, but this did not help - I think the technology was broken, or the chipboard was bad. The kitchen manufacturer changed the frame, but in order to avoid a problem, I want to pre-treat the edges. The question is, what? Yesterday I tried to cover up liquid nails cut chipboard and place the processed end in a bowl of water - it swelled overnight ...: (((Advise which tool is better to use to seal the edges? Good luck Paul
Shadow (Moscow) July 21, 2004 18:06:44	2 Paul: Rub open areas with silicone sealant
Shadow (Moscow) July 21, 2004 18:10:32	2 Paul: Sorry - under open areas understand non-laminated areas of the frame. In addition - nothing prevents you from smearing the laminated edges with that sealant - the silicone film will certainly not let water through.
Paul July 21, 2004 20:10:49	2Shandow: I rubbed the countertops with silicone sealant on the chipboard (the cutout for the sink) - it doesn’t hold well: ((. I think it will be even worse on a laminated surface ... Here you need something penetrating, I’ll try parquet varnish. I’ll let you know about the results. Good luck Paul
Serg (Samara, Russia) July 22, 2004 01:31:38	2Paul: Soak with drying oil several times. Best regards, Sergei
Paul July 22, 2004 08:31:15	The varnish did not help - the sample left in the water swelled overnight: (( 2 Serg: Today I'll try drying oil... Good luck Paul
shrek (Tomsk) July 22, 2004 10:15:46	IMHO, if you leave chipboard in water overnight, then at least soak it with something - it will swell.
Serg (Samara, Russia) July 23, 2004 00:18:13	2Paul: You can apply heated in a water bath - it will be better absorbed. Best regards, Sergei
TriX (SPb) July 23, 2004 11:33:23	Yeah. And under pressure. Then the whole class. But it still won't help much. Chipboard is poorly impregnated. The binder prevents the impregnation from going deep. And water is such a chchchchch that it crawls into all the cracks, pores, etc. and delaminates the materials. You can look for hydrophobic mixtures such as liquid silicone. It won't swell underneath. But this is not suitable for furniture.
shrek (Tomsk) July 23, 2004 12:45:21	What else do you think :) What can be coated with chipboard for water resistance? If there was such a tool, then the manufacturers of chipboard kitchens would already use it :). IMHO, flawless good remedy search. Only impregnation with drying oil and do not fill with water :).
Serg (Samara, Russia) July 24, 2004 00:50:45	2TriX: Applying drying oil heated in a water bath is a standard technique. > Chipboard is poorly impregnated. From the side of the cut, the plate is impregnated quite well. There is this tool - immediately mark all technological holes and then stick melamine - and on back wall too. The front, rolled end raises no questions for anyone - here you need to do the same with the back. Best regards, Sergei Best regards, Sergei