What varnish to cover the interior door and how best to do it? How to renew the varnish How to renew the varnish.

If the furniture is cracked against your will, and how to bring it back to life using simple means.

There are scuffs, there are scratches, and soon the eye begins to notice more and more damage to the once flawless coating. Aging of coatings is inevitable, but this does not mean, however, that it is time to replace furniture with new ones.

How to renew varnish coatings Sometimes it is enough to just clean the object thoroughly or apply a new coat, it is much easier than starting with pure wood.

Before you get started, you need to determine what type of coverage you are dealing with. First of all, drip some alcohol in an inconspicuous place (photo A). The shellac will dissolve. If not, do the same with the nitro varnish solvent, which should soften the nitrocellulose coating. If this time nothing came of it, you are dealing with an oil, alkyd, polyurethane or two-component polyester varnish.

If the furniture is relatively new, it is possible that the coating film will be stained. Examine the damaged areas: if the color changes at the place of scratches or scuffs, but the wood is not exposed, you will have to completely remove the coating and reapply the finish. But before you go that far, try some simpler remedies first.

A. The underside of the drawer is the ideal place to test the type of coating with rubbing alcohol and then thinner.

B. A coating that looks worn out may just be dirty. Remove plaque with a soapy wipe and this is a good start to restore the freshness of the finish.

Method number 1.

Start with a thorough cleaning

If the finish is just faded or has subtle dents and scratches, first remove the old film of polish, wax or oil. Wipe the surfaces with a cloth dampened in a mild hand cleaner and dry immediately after cleaning (photo B). Then remove all traces of wax and oil by treating the coating with mineral spirits.

Now apply a new coat of wax paste such as Johnson Paste Wax, which will fill in the smallest scratches and give an even shine. Let the paste dry before hand polishing with a furry eccentric sander (photo C). To avoid damaging the wax coating, do not use aerosol polishes or so-called "lemon oil" (mineral oil with white spirit and fragrances), which dissolve the wax.

Method number 2.

The next option is to re-polish

If cleaning and waxing doesn't work, you probably need to buff the finish. This is possible if the film is thick enough, since in this process part of it is removed. How to find out the film thickness? Unless clear wood is exposed under the scratches, this is a good sign that the film can be worked with. When polishing an existing coating, proceed in the same way as when polishing a new one. First, prepare a white non-woven polishing pad by double-sided tape affixing it to an abrasive disc. Apply some polishing liquid to the coating and spread it over the entire surface, slowly moving the sander and making overlapping passes (photo D).

Work slowly and stop when the shine is even. Then apply a layer of wax paste.

Method number 3.

Apply a new coat

A surface covered with rough scratches and dents cannot be refreshed without removing the old coating to clean wood.

C. To make a polishing pad for your eccentric sander, attach a white nonwoven disc to the abrasive side of the grinding disc with duct tape.

1. Remove minor sanding scratches with the white polishing pad and Finesse-lt II Machine Polish. Check the result more often as you work.
2. Due to the silicone in some furniture polishes, bubbles form in the new coating, or it can flake off like water droplets on an oily surface.

But if the scratches are not too deep, you can make the finish look like the old one but not worn out by applying new coats and sanding in between to make the finish smooth and give it an even shine. For surfaces that are not too smooth, use matt and semi-matt finishes. Glossy finishes require a long polishing process, and even small imperfections are visible on high-gloss surfaces. Start with a thorough cleaning, then wipe the surface with mineral spirits to remove oil, wax or polish, traces of which lead to the formation of bubbles and delamination of the new coating (photo E). Then lightly sand the surface with 320 grit paper by hand to prepare it for new coats.

To mask small scratches that expose clean wood, apply a suitable color of stain (photo F) to the damaged area and allow it to dry for 24 hours. Then, using a swab, apply three coats of a film-forming compound, such as Watco Wipe-On Poly, with intermediate sanding with 320 grit.

1. Staining is an effective and economical way to repair minor scratches. Instead of stain, you can use special coloring markers, which are sold in many shopping centers.
2. When smoothing the coating film on an uneven surface by grinding, it is easy to wipe through one or several layers through which the lower ones will shine through.

If small dents or scuffs continue to appear after applying new coats, sand them with 320 grit paper to an even matt finish. However, if sanding for too long, whitish spots may appear (photo G), but they will be covered with new layers. Apply the coating and leave to dry for at least a week in a ventilated area for the film to cure well. Its readiness for polishing can be determined by the absence of the smell of the solvent, which must evaporate completely.

To polish a new film, first apply a little petroleum jelly and sand the surface by hand with 400 grit sandpaper and then 600 grit paper to smooth out any unevenness. Inspect the abrasive frequently to ensure that the grains are not clogged with coating particles. Wipe the surface clean before changing the abrasive. After sanding, proceed to buffing with an eccentric sander with a white nonwoven attachment. Then buff the finish with a soft cloth and polishing liquid. Stop when the gloss level is the same on all areas of the surface.

For a long time, wood has been considered one of the best floor materials. It is a natural, environmentally friendly, durable and beautiful material. Nevertheless, it also lends itself to the influence of various external factors and over time loses its attractiveness and requires high-quality repair or replacement. Therefore, most people get so used to their old wooden floor that they don't even consider replacing the wooden floor with another floor.

Under these conditions, the most acceptable solution is to renew the wood flooring, which is very practical in terms of repair and restoration. In addition, wood flooring can be repaired and refurbished many times.

Now, solid wood boards, like parquet and block parquet, remain a fairly popular flooring material in the future, despite the relatively high cost. Therefore, you should not rush to replace them with modern artificial counterparts. We offer a sequence of repairing an old wooden floor, provided that the desired result can be achieved.

Removing old paint and sanding

A rather laborious process that requires a special grinding machine, on which the quality of work directly depends, as well as the absence of dirt and dust during its implementation. You should not save on these processes, and when choosing a master with grinding equipment, you need to pay attention to the following main points:

• completeness of the grinding machine, because each of them performs a specific function:
• tape - evens out and removes the paint layer;
• surface grinding - polishes;
• facing - processes areas in hard-to-reach places;
• the manufacturer and brand of the grinding machine, on which the quality and speed of the work performed depends;
• the presence of a special grinder for grinding and scraping the floor around the perimeter of the room and in hard-to-reach places, and not an ordinary grinder;
• an integrated approach to the implementation of all work on floor grinding, taking into account all consumables, that is, the implementation of all works on a turnkey basis.

Putty

One of the necessary stages of renovation and restoration of an old wooden floor, which almost always has cracks as a result of drying out of the wood. Putty is applied over the entire floor area with a trowel, which improves the appearance of the floor, provides effective and durable filling of cracks and cracks, and also gives the coating solidity.

Padding

Priming the sanded wood flooring is mandatory. The primer precedes the application of an aesthetic outer layer - paint or varnish. This process protects the surface from the harmful effects of various biological factors and prolongs the life of the wood coating, as well as ensures its adhesion to the substrate.

When choosing a primer, you should take into account the degree of protection of the floor and the level of resistance to various influences. Before use, the product is thoroughly mixed and not diluted throughout the entire process of use. Apply in one layer.

To improve the properties, the coating is polished along the fibers with emery paper, and, if necessary, additionally polished. A high-quality primer provides not only a uniform finish, but also paint savings. The primed surface can be considered completely ready for the finishing process of renovating the wooden floor.

Painting

The paint forms a protective colored coating on the surface, which provides the floor with reliable protection and an attractive appearance. Unlike impregnations and varnishes, it hides the natural color of the wood and its inherent pattern. The durable and abrasion-resistant coating protects the floor from scratches and other factors. Before use, the paint is thoroughly mixed and, if necessary, diluted with an oil-phthalic solvent to the required viscosity.

The paint is applied in three layers. Drying of each layer - about a day. The floor surface acquires full operational durability and strength 72 hours after the application of the last layer. Subject to the above recommendations and tips, the wooden floor covering will look attractive and will last for many years.

Even at the stage of buying funds for treating wooden surfaces in your home, the question arises: how long will such protection last and when it will need to be updated. And as the repair time approaches, the search for an answer to the question will begin: how to properly update a wooden surface?

You will notice the first signs that the tree needs to be re-processed immediately. Cracks, swelling, peeling of the surface will speak about them. There is a drop method by which you can understand that the repair time has come: if water drops lose their shape and spread over the surface, absorbing into it, then the protective layer does not fulfill its functions, and it must be restored.

Renovation of a wooden surface can be carried out over the entire surface, or in sections.

Step by step repair

• Surface preparation - we clean and grind the repaired area with a scraper, metal brush, spatula or lightly sand it if the coating layer sits tightly on the surface.
• We apply an antiseptic soil that will protect the tree from swelling and fill the pores. We leave it to dry. Primers are acrylic - for internal surfaces, alkyd - for external and internal use, polystyrene - only for external use due to high toxicity and others. The most popular are currently considered primers of the brands Belinka, Tikkurila, Pinotex, Lakra.
• Before applying, the protective and decorative agent is thoroughly mixed and applied to the surface with a brush or roller. It is advisable to use the same coating as before.
• For the entire drying time, we cover the surface from dust and dirt if it is outdoors and protect it from extraneous influences if the repair is done at home.

If oil impregnation is restored, then at the final stage, to give the surface a shine, we treat with wax, applying it in the direction of the fibers with a brush or cloth. After incomplete drying, we polish.

It is important to know that a high-quality film is formed when the coating is applied in a thin layer. Therefore, it is better to make three thin layers than one thick one. When using glaze, it must be taken into account that it changes the shade of the surface and does not apply too many layers in order to maintain the desired color.

Drying time also affects the quality of the repair. To do this, you need to carefully read the instructions for the product you are using and let it dry for the required time. It will be different for different products. For example, alkyd coatings can dry from 6 hours to several days. Water dispersion lasts 3-4 hours. Real oils require at least 24 hours to fully saturate.

There is an advice from experienced builders: to achieve the durability of the coating of wooden surfaces, you need to reapply the decorative and protective coating after a year. This is especially true for those parts that are exposed to different weather conditions. Then the surface will be preserved for a long time, and its visual destruction will not begin soon.

Laminate is one of the most popular residential flooring options today.

First of all, it is an excellent aesthetics and durability of operation, but no matter how high-quality the flooring is, sooner or later it loses its external shine and brightness of colors.

Exposure to shoes, washing with chemicals and abrasives, ultraviolet radiation causes the surface of the floorboards to wear out, and the colors to fade and tarnish. In this regard, many residents have a question whether it is possible to paint the laminate in order to give it a presentable look again.

Laminate design and features of its operation

It is, in principle, possible to update the laminate flooring, but some of the nuances of the work should be observed.

Before painting a laminate, it is worth taking a closer look at what it is and what is its structural difference from parquet flooring.

Laminate made of composite materials

Laminate floorboards, despite their similarity to parquet, have little to do with them. Their main difference is the material from which they are made.

While natural wood is used in the production of parquet boards and bars, various composite materials are widely used in the manufacture of laminated lamellas.

Laminate structure

Classic laminated board consists of 4 layers, bonded to each other by means of polymer-based adhesives.

Features of operation

If the top cover is broken, the entire panel may be damaged.

In connection with such a design of the laminate, if its upper layer is damaged, all underlying layers are inevitably put under impact, therefore, damage to the protective surface should be considered not only as a decorative defect that impairs the appearance of laminated flooring.

Violation of the protective layer can cause "failure" of the entire floorboard - moisture and chemical components of cleaning agents, penetrating into the base of the lamella will lead to its deformation, delamination or fungal attack.

Laminate with a damaged protective layer is strongly not recommended for wet cleaning.

On damaged surfaces, you should limit yourself to dry cleaning.

In order to avoid deformation of the floorboards, dry cleaning with a vacuum cleaner or broom should be limited.

But it is quite clear that dry cleaning will not be able to rid the surface of the floor covering from stubborn dirt.

Moreover, a floorboard devoid of a polymer film tends to absorb dirt, and this makes it almost impossible to clean it dry.

In this regard, painting the laminate is needed not only to restore its decorative qualities, but also to protect it from adverse external influences.

As a preventive measure against premature failure of the laminate flooring, it is advisable to choose it in accordance with the resistance class.

For example, in rooms with increased floor load (entrance hall, kitchen, living room), a higher class laminate should be used. The table shows the classes of laminate flooring, the recommended area of ​​their application and the approximate service life.

Choice of paint and varnish

Coat the surface with a compound that will protect the coating from moisture

As practice shows, the best paint for a laminate is one that contains as little liquid as possible.

Otherwise, excess moisture will be absorbed by the lower layers of the floorboard, which will lead to their swelling and deformation, therefore, coloring compositions based on polyurethane or alkyd will be the most suitable option.

Such compositions create a durable film with a protective effect on the surface to be painted.

If the decorative surface of the laminate coating is not too damaged during operation, it can be limited to applying a new varnish coating to renew it.

The painted surface is also varnished for extra protection and shine. It is recommended to use epoxy or polyurethane varnish for covering the laminate. For more information on whether it is possible to varnish the laminated coating, see this video:

In terms of their chemical composition, these substances are most similar to methylamine resins, which are used to create the upper protective layer of the lamella under factory conditions.

Laminate painting

Before updating the laminate, you should make the appropriate surface preparation, as well as choose the most suitable composition for painting it.

Surface preparation for painting

Most often, the laminate is abraded in certain places.

The protective layer of the laminate is abraded unevenly, and in the form of separate "islands", deep scratches can also form on the surface of the protective layer. On the rest of the surface, the laminated layer retains its protective properties.

Among these protective properties, the low adhesion rate should be especially noted. Adhesion ("coupling") - the property of materials to interpenetration. With regard to finishing and building materials - the ability to create a strong bond with adhesive, paint, plaster and other solutions.

In some cases, high adhesion is an undoubted plus, in others it is a big minus. The protective surface of the laminate is highly resistant to the penetration of any foreign matter. This property allows him to successfully resist all kinds of pollution and the effects of household chemicals.

However, when painting, the laminated surface can create a lot of problems for us. Due to the low adhesion coefficient, the paint and varnish composition will not be able to penetrate deep into the protective layer, but will remain on its surface. As a result, in these places the paint will wear off quickly enough, or it will peel off and peel off. As a result, all the work done on painting the floors will be put to waste.

Removing the protective layer

To avoid this, before renewing the coating, you should increase its adhesion rate.

To do this, you must either completely remove the top layer, consisting of a polymer coating, or give it a rough texture.

To do this, carefully process the floor with sandpaper or a grinder.

Cleaning the laminated surface should be done as carefully as possible so as not to damage the lower layers of the floorboards. It would be best for these purposes to use sandpaper-zero, or No. 1.

Coarse-grained paper is used only when absolutely necessary - to remove large scratches and other mechanical damage. After leveling the surface with a large "sandpaper", you should walk on it with a smaller one - No. 1 or No. 0.

Vacuum up any remaining dust and debris.

The final stage of mechanical cleaning is the removal of dust and small sawdust from the floor surface using a vacuum cleaner or broom.

Also, to remove small abrasive particles and greasy dirt, you can use a lint-free cloth moistened with any of the solvents. In this case, one should not be too zealous so as not to damage the decorative layer.

Minor scratches can be repaired with putty

To smooth out too deep scratches, dents and other external defects, you can use wood putty. It is applied to the damaged surface with a thin layer.

If it is necessary to apply a thick layer of putty, apply it in two steps: the second layer after the first has completely dried. After that, the putty surface is carefully leveled using the same sandpaper to perfect condition.

Surface priming

In order not to damage the fiberboard, use oil mixtures

The next stage in preparing the surface of the laminate for painting is its primer. Primer application is another way to increase the adhesion of the surface of the laminate with the paint composition.

Due to the poor water resistance of the fiberboard from which the main lamella layer is made, oil-based primers are the best choice.

They will allow you to increase the adhesion of the flooring surface without any "side effects". After the primer has dried, you can proceed directly to painting the old laminate.

Surface painting

When applying paint, a number of specialists' recommendations should be followed, thanks to which the work will be done more quickly and efficiently.

First of all, the application of the coloring solution we have chosen should start from the corner farthest from the doors.

When working with paint, use a brush only.

A paint roller will not allow you to thoroughly paint over all the joints and gaps between the individual floorboards.

Apply varnish after paint has dried

At the same time, to create a more natural effect, paint or varnish should be applied with long strokes directed along the floorboard. After applying the paint, the surface should be carefully treated with a transparent varnish.

It will not only give the floors an elegant glossy look, but also serve as additional protection for the renewed floorboards from moisture and mechanical stress.

As you can see from the above, the answer to the question "can laminate flooring be painted?" - positive, of course, provided that the preparatory work is carried out correctly.

No matter how carefully you treat the floor covering, over time, small scratches, cracks and chips appear on its surface. In such a situation, the laminate must be restored in order for the coating to

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It has become shiny and smooth as it was many years ago. How can you renew an old floor yourself? To do this, use various putties and repair kits, which will be discussed in this article.

What damage can be repaired?

It is possible to restore the laminate without replacing the lamellas only if there are minor defects, such as:

1. Small chips;
2. Minor cracks;
3. Scuffs on the coating;
4. Small gaps between the lamellas;
5. Dullness of laminated flooring.

In such situations, it is possible to update the laminate in just one day and this does not require serious material costs. Let's consider each type of damage in more detail.

Elimination of minor scratches

Often, after repair or rearrangement of furniture, scratches form on the coating, which spoil the appearance of the coating. It is possible to disguise defects and thereby update the laminate with the help of the following devices:

• Wax pencil;
• Polish.

To restore the finish, clean the damaged area of ​​any dirt and apply a color-matched wax. Then use a special polish to protect the damaged area from moisture.

Elimination of cracks and deep scratches

Old laminate flooring is more susceptible to damage, as the protective layer of the coating becomes thinner as a result of use. Then enough deep scratches appear on the surface of the floor. However, even in this situation, it is possible to restore the laminate using the following means:

• Laminate putty;
• Crack putty knife.

Special putties for restoration are sold in the form of powders and diluted with water, according to the instructions. It is necessary to apply the product exclusively on a scratch and only with a spatula. The putty must not be allowed to "crawl out" beyond the damage, since it is quite problematic to clean it.

Elimination of gaps

It is also possible to restore the laminate with the formation of gaps between the lamellas, but only if they are insignificant. After repair, they, as a rule, are not visible, but to eliminate the defect, you need to use a special repair kit, or a composition made in a "handicraft" way.

Homemade composition includes:

• Crushed chalk;
• Construction paint that matches the color of the coating;
• Liquid glass;
• Wood sawdust.

To get a high quality putty, before combining all the components, dilute the liquid glass with a little water. The finished composition should be thick enough. Only after that, all the cracks are covered with a spatula, after which they are carefully cleaned with sandpaper. The restored floor must then be polished using a special wood care solution.

Elimination of scuffs and dullness

Sometimes it is necessary to update the laminate even if no significant defects have arisen on it. Over time, the floor loses its shine, and the floor itself becomes dull and unattractive. In this situation, the laminate can be polished. For these purposes, the following means are used:

• Liquid polish;
• Viscous polish;
• Mastic.

You can properly polish the floor by observing the following rules:

1. Before applying the product, the coating must be cleaned of dirt and dried;
2. Sprays and viscous compounds are applied evenly over the entire floor surface;
3. For polishing, use napkins made of natural soft fabric.

In the case of applying mastic, you can polish the coating with a fine-bristled cloth. The agent is applied to a napkin, after which the lamellas are polished in a circular motion. In this case, it is advisable to treat the floor in small areas.

In the video, the process of polishing the laminate is discussed in more detail, where the specialist talks about all the nuances of this process.

Conclusion

It is easy to renew outdated coverage using affordable and effective tools. Each of the above methods allows you to keep the laminate in its original form even after 5-7 years of operation.