Wood aging. Do-it-yourself processing of semi-antique wood products

Brushing wood with your own hands is an interesting technology that allows you to artificially age a tree. The natural aging process takes decades. But now with the help of special tools to achieve this effect can be done at home quickly and without significant material expenses. Aged material is ideal for decorating classic, vintage and rustic styles.

Brushing wood with your own hands: how the process is carried out

Residents of modern cities increasingly prefer styles with a pronounced individuality in the decor of the room: classic, vintage, rustic and country.

The main detail of such interiors is wood. Thanks to this material, the design of the room acquires a uniqueness and inimitable charm. But for a classic and vintage style, a tree in its original natural form is not suitable. In this case, an aged tree is best suited, which has a more attractive and noble appearance. This material is suitable for the manufacture of any element of decor: a vintage lamp, a wooden chest of drawers, stylish doors and window frames, fireplace cladding.

V natural conditions the process of wood aging is delayed for decades, since the original patterns on the wood surface are formed slowly and unevenly. Therefore, this material is rare and expensive. But among modern technologies there is a simple and fast way artificial aging of wood. This process is called brushing. Interest in this method is shown not only by lovers of elite vintage furniture, but also by those who want to diversify the interior of country houses.

Do-it-yourself wood aging (brushing) - decorative technology processing of wooden products, during which for the usual wooden surface creates an artificial effect of antiquity. The method takes its name from English word brush - brush. The aging process is also called wood structuring.

The method of artificial brushing is based on the difference in hardness of the layers that make up the wood. In the process of work, the soft light layer is removed. As a result, the areas become embossed, which gives the material a special look that is inherent only in fairly old trees.

Types of safe finishing materials for interior decoration, their specificity and features of use, prices.

Process automation: machines and machines for brushing wood

Mass production of artificially aged wood requires speed of work. Some stages of wood processing can be mechanized, which will simplify the work of obtaining aged wood. To do this, you will need drills with speed control and special machines for brushing.

Consider the most popular models of specialized techniques for structuring a tree.

Festool rustofix ras 180 wood trimmer or brush machine. Wood brushing brushes can be purchased with this tool. They are of three types:

brush out steel wire for primary processing of boards;
brush with synthetic bristles for intermediate grinding;
sisal or hair brushes for polishing the back surface of the product.

The Makita 974 grinder is used for brushing wood. But during operation, difficulties may arise with the processing of areas at the corners of the part. Therefore, at the joints, it is recommended to use a special angle grinder with different nozzles or use a nylon brush dressed on the grinder for brushing. Such a brush is highly wear-resistant and allows you to process the ends, edges and contours of parts with complex shapes.

The Felisatti AGF 110/1010E grinder is suitable for processing both flat and uneven surfaces. The tool comes with nylon and metal brushes.

Useful advice! It makes sense to buy a wood brushing machine only if large volumes of work are planned. Brushes for brushing wood can be bought both with a machine and purchased separately.

How to age a tree with your own hands: technologies

The process of aging opens before the master the widest possibilities by changing the structure and color different breeds wood. Before proceeding directly to structuring, the wood must be prepared. The material for brushing should be free of defects, notches and irregularities, and the humidity should be 10-12%, but not more than 15%. If the tree does not meet these characteristics, then the wood fibers will tear during processing, and a beautiful result from structuring will not work.

Let us consider in more detail the process of how to age a tree at home. The work with the material can be divided into several stages.

Before starting work, it is necessary to perform the primary processing of the part, namely: to moisten the tree. This will prevent the spread of dust throughout the room during operation.

Next, you will need a manual brush for processing. Depending on the hardness of the wood, we choose the stiffness of the metal brush for roughing. The bristles of the tool must easily remove soft surface fibers, but must not damage hard ones. Move the brush in the direction of the fibers.

If you decide to automate the processing process using a brush for brushing wood on a grinder or grinder, then you should remember that the movements are carried out along the fibers. It is necessary to move the tool with such intensity that the fibers are effectively scraped out.

You need to carefully select the speed: too high a speed of the brush can cause the wood to bake. Using hand tool this problem does not arise, but more effort needs to be applied. Also, manual processing will be delayed in time.

Useful advice! It is better to select the speed on a separate small sample of the tree. The optimal number of revolutions is 1500-2200, but for different breeds it may differ.

Then we carry out the primary grinding of the part. To do this, we use a polymer brush with an abrasive applied to it. This stage will remove roughness and fiber fragments from the surface of the part. By removing all unnecessary, you can evaluate how deeply and efficiently the structuring of wood is performed. If necessary, the grooves can be further deepened, making the structuring more distinct.

The next step is to think about decorative design details. For this chisel in different places details are made recesses and grooves of arbitrary shape. In appearance, they will resemble the cracks that appeared naturally.

Next comes the final polishing. To do this, you need a sisal or hair brush. This tool for wood will give the details a finished look, fully showing all the decorative texture. At manual processing used instead of a brush sandpaper fine grit with an abrasive surface. It will allow you to make a perfectly polished surface of the workpiece.

Then the wood must be well dried. It must be completely cleaned of dust and thus prepared for further painting and applying varnish.

The application will make the product look old by creating contrasting textured patterns. Abundant application of the composition with fast removal excess will allow you to paint over parts with soft fibers and leave light areas with hard fibers. Soft fibers quickly absorb paint, which means they are dyed, while hard fibers do not have time to absorb the pigment during this time, so they remain light. A tree painted with gold or silver paint looks especially beautiful.

Against the background of the natural color of the tree, this pigment creates glare on the surface of the part in the sun. This gives the product an original decorative effect and luxury. The product will look especially presentable if the tree is patinated - painting over the deepest cracks with darker paint.

At the final stage, the product is polished again to remove the roughness and irregularities that appeared after staining.

Useful advice! Lacquering is carried out on completely dry and cleaned wood. To paint brushed parquet, it is necessary to use a special parquet varnish. This will allow the finished coating to maintain a presentable appearance and performance characteristics for a long time.

Wood brushing: features of wood chemical structuring

Brushing with the help of chemistry is rare, even though the use of chemically active compounds greatly facilitates the process of artificial aging of wood. To carry out chemical processing of wood, it is necessary to have special knowledge and skills to work with chemicals. In addition, the method has a drawback - it is not always easy to buy the necessary reagents.

For the chemical structuring of a tree, acids are needed: hydrochloric and sulfuric, alkali and ammonia. Reagents applied to the surface of the material corrode the soft fibers. The master can only scrape off unnecessary wood.

Stages of chemical brushing of wood:

Surface grinding and decontamination.
Apply a thin layer of chemicals to the surface of the part. During chemical structuring, the evaporation of reagents must be monitored. If necessary, it is recommended to reapply them.
When the chemical works, that is, softens the outer fibers, the part must be rinsed under running water and remove any remaining reagent with a soft-bristled brush.
Next, the tree must be thoroughly dried, painted or varnished.

The availability and demand for brushing allows you to perform this method at home. When structuring wood, it is imperative to adhere to safety regulations. Work with tools and a machine for brushing wood should be carefully and carefully. All artificial structuring processes must be carried out in special protective clothing, goggles and gloves. If antiseptic solutions are used during work or too much dust accumulates in the air from wood, then you should work in a respirator.

Brushing a wooden surface is an unusual way to make a piece of wood more beautiful, unusual and attractive. This method is very popular among interior designers and ordinary people, since everyone can artificially age a tree. It takes a little time and effort to get luxurious furniture or a chic original ceiling, stylized antique. For a better effect, patination of furniture can be carried out.

Artificial brushing of wood: the price of work

The main task of wood brushing is to create and emphasize the unique texture of the surface of the board. The result is a material with a clearly defined natural material pattern. The procedure is suitable for many types of material. The cost of standard brushing is 350 rubles. per sq. m. When ordering additional painting, the cost increases. The price of the work depends on the chosen type of wood, as well as on the size of the board.

The cost of each stage of artificial aging is usually calculated separately. You can order separately grinding or just impregnation. The most profitable option - full service brushing from the beginning of work to the final coating with the purchase of material. It is possible to perform artificial structuring from your material.

Wood brushing workshops perform an individual calculation of the cost of processing, depending on the type of wood, the size of the product and the list of services.

Brushing is performed over any kind of wooden materials:

bar;
lining;

planks;
block house;
planks.

Scope of application of tree structuring technology

The structuring method is very popular in the manufacture of interior items and room elements. Such wooden crafts will be an original addition to the classic and vintage interiors. In addition, the advantage of brushing technology is the ability to self-creation exclusive things. In addition, this method belongs to the category simple processes available to everyone.

Brushed board decorate fireplaces, shelves, columns, Wall panels, as well as an aged tree is used as ceiling beams. This material creates a unique entourage for living rooms and halls, halls of cafes and restaurants. The interior design is filled with aristocracy and luxury, and aged wood creates warmth and comfort in the room.

Looks stylish and sophisticated wooden furniture using brushed elements. artificial aging and patination of wood with your own hands allows you to make absolutely any furniture: cabinets, chests of drawers, pegs, beds. The use of brushed elements in furniture and interior design has no restrictions and prohibitions - it all depends on your imagination and creativity.

The need for an effect old wood may be due to several reasons. For example, the desire to arrange (furnish, finish) a room in original style, personal preferences of the owners, lack of funds for the purchase of antiques, or some other considerations. It is quite possible to age a tree with your own hands, if you understand the existing technologies. This article will reveal several secrets on how to give it the look that is necessary for a particular interior with the appropriate processing of wood.

There are several methods of artificial aging of lumber, so the author will not separately specify which of the tools and preparations may be needed when implementing one or the other. After reviewing each of them, the reader himself will understand, in accordance with his capabilities, what will need to be prepared before starting work.

The main ways of do-it-yourself wood aging

Mechanical

This technique is called texturing, although it is better known as brushing (from the English brush - brush). It is she who is the tool with which the tree is successfully stylized antique. The essence of this method is that the "pulp" is extracted. As a result - the relief surface of the sample. Almost the same thing happens to wood over time - in the process of its shrinkage, under the influence of temperature, ultraviolet radiation, humidity and a number of other factors.

For do-it-yourself woodworking, brushing is one of the most simple options. But not every breed is suitable for this method of imitation of old wood. The method is called texturing because the main task is to achieve a pronounced relief of the material.

What is brushed:

larch, pine (and almost all other conifers);
nut;
ash.

Breeds that are not amenable to mechanical aging:

maple;
fruit trees (for example, cherry) and a number of others (expensive, exotic), less used in the decoration of apartments and houses.

Technology

For a mechanical method of aging a tree, you will need. The work is simple, you just need free time and patience. But this technique is suitable in cases where we are talking about a small amount of lumber.

If you want to age a tree over a large area, then it is more advisable to use an electric / drill or angle grinder ("grinder") with. Since speed already plays a role here, you should work in protective equipment and be extremely careful. The slightest awkward movement - and the tree can be hopelessly damaged. It is especially important if the processing is subjected to ready product- table, stool, wardrobe and so on.

Chemical aging of wood

Preliminary processing is carried out with sandpaper with abrasive of large fractions.

Option 1

Application over the entire area of the ammonia solution. Ready-made ammonia, which is inexpensive, is also quite suitable. It causes darkening of lumber, giving it nobility and originality. As a result, the wood takes on an antique look.

Feature - this aging technology is suitable only for hardwood species. Their structure contains substances called tannins. It is they who cause the darkening of the wood.

Option 2

With the help of a polymer brush, a “light” cleaning of the surface is performed. The task is to achieve a clearer manifestation of annual rings. After finishing, the wood is stained and varnished in the appropriate shade.

Option 3

The tree is treated with stain. But not any, but necessarily based on water. After the desired color of the wood has been achieved, the composition is partially washed off (preferably with a damp soft sponge). This is done not over the entire surface, but in its middle part. As a result, the edges remain darker, which is typical for older wood.

Option 4

Patching. A more difficult type of chemical aging to implement, but the wood looks much more luxurious, imitating antiques as much as possible. The essence of the technique is to shade the pores that have opened during machining against the background of the rest of the surface.

Technology

After stripping the workpiece (a specific segment of the base), compositions selected for the general interior are applied to it. The simplest of them is, although there are also special preparations used to patch a tree. As a result, they fill pores that differ from the rest of the structure more dark shade and contrast. Such work is carried out in several stages and requires a lot of time, since each layer is applied after the final drying of the previous one.

When aging a tree with your own hands, the technology can be simplified. To do this, the material is covered with a color-matched paint. Without waiting for her to "grab", you need to remove her upper layer. The brush is useless here - it is enough to surface the wood with a “doll” made of soft tissue or sponge.

Option 5

Coloring. The purpose of this technique is to create “bald spots” on the surface of the wood, imitating abrasions, which is one of the evidence of the solid age of the lumber.

Technology

It is necessary to choose two enamels that differ in color and consistency. After the initial staining of the tree, it is dried. Next, a second layer is applied, but for this a more liquid paint is taken. When this layer also gets stronger, the lumber in some areas is processed with fine-grained sandpaper. As a result, a shabby surface due to the fact that darker paint begins to show through in these places.

You can achieve a better effect with this method of artificial aging. For example, to designate "false cracks" that will further emphasize the age of the tree. Here you will already need the so-called craquelure varnish. It should be applied to the base before the primary painting of the surface.

Any work with your own hands implies the presence of at least minimal experience. Therefore, it is often impossible to achieve the desired result. How to be?

Sand the aged wood.
If its surface has bends, depressions, then these places can additionally be covered with stain. And in 2 layers. For the first - a "water" composition, for the second - on any other basis (gasoline, naphtha, alcohol). After drying, the wood is treated with a wax-containing preparation and polished.

Thermal aging

In fact, this is a complex processing of wood.

Stages of work

First- firing over the entire surface or in a separate area. This is necessary to remove all the "pulp" and a clearer manifestation of the structure, growth rings, knots, cracks.

Second – mechanical restoration. With the help of a metal brush, carbon deposits are removed. In addition, it allows you to achieve the most pronounced relief of the tree.

Third(optional) - wood stain impregnation. Depending on the breed, this often results in a greater texturing effect. A single coat is sufficient.

Fourth- applying varnish. If the aged wood looks great, then it is better to use a colorless varnish. Its task is to protect the material from the negative effects of the atmosphere. In some cases, additional tinting of wood is made with varnish, but already in color.

The author in practice used different sources of open fire and in the process of training came to the conclusion that the best way- gas-burner. If work blowtorch, it is difficult to achieve uniformity of the flame. As a result, during aging, tan marks appear on the tree, which are quite difficult to level, and sometimes impossible.
Before proceeding with surface treatment, it is necessary to “fill your hand”. Therefore, at first it is desirable to gain at least a minimum of experience by practicing on junk lumber. There will always be some kind of wood waste on the farm.

Restoration of the appearance of wood

This need is encountered everywhere. If the piece of furniture has served for some time, and defects have appeared in a separate area or over the entire area, the original decor has been lost, then this is relatively easy to fix with your own hands. In principle, this technology is one of the varieties of wood aging.

Operating procedure:

Removal of applied layers (cleaning wood to the base). The skin is used. The grain size is selected based on the complexity of processing.
Bare wood is covered (in 2 layers) acrylic paint(black).
Any furniture has a peculiar configuration. Consequently, all protruding places (corners, bevels, segments around the handles, and so on) wear out over time. After determining these areas, they are rubbed with paraffin. It is easy to find a candle in the house.
Staining wood in the desired color.
After the composition dries, the paraffin is washed off (peeled off), and dark paint will appear on the areas treated with it.
Finishing.

The author recalls that the article indicates only the most easy-to-implement methods of artificial aging of a tree with your own hands. There are quite a lot of them, as well as the tools used, preparations. But if the meaning of all technological operations is clear, then it is easy to develop your own methodology. The specifics of the work and local conditions themselves will prompt what and how it is more expedient to do.

Actually, the aging of wood itself is a rather long process and depends on the conditions of initial processing, operating conditions and environment. Therefore, here I will describe several types imitations old wood and, accordingly, the furniture that is or is made from it.

Can be distinguished two directions of techniques and technologies of artificial aging (aging) of wood:

Mechanical impact on wood

Playing with color

Mechanical impact on wood

It can be subdivided into the following imitations, which by themselves do not provide credibility and are therefore used in conjunction with a color scheme:

* embossed texture of old wood (brushing);

* destructive impact of tree pests (bark beetles, larvae…)

Hitting wood with a bag/sock/glove with nails

Drilling wormholes and "drawing" wormhole grooves with a 1-5 mm drill

* random mechanical damage during operation (when carrying furniture, fell, maybe something or hit the furniture ...)

* wear in places of frequent contact with clothes, shoes, hands, and other parts of the body (for example, as old worn wooden steps stairs)

* old and manual processing methods:

- "curve" cut

The uneven surface of the tree (you can angle grinder with abrasive nozzle carelessly remove the top layer from the surface furniture board or any piece of wood)

tool marks

- carpenter's "mistakes" ...

Playing with color

Here are the simulations:

* precious woods (this does not apply to aging, but it is quite good for playing with color)

* changes in the color of wood in adverse environmental conditions (darkening, withering of the wood texture, wood pollution, "patina", blue, rot)

* aging of the paintwork surfaces themselves (for example, the formation of a network of cracks / crackle technique, craquelure / or imitation of paintwork wear)

* repainting (when old layers are visible through the "new" coating... there are many photos with it in the article)

* in itself, the use of natural oils and wax can emphasize the "antiquity" of aged furniture

And some more photos of painted wood that lives on the street:

An extreme method is the use of a torch. Required plots are set on fire to the desired condition and the extra "coals" are removed until the desired effect is obtained. Naturally soft fibers burn deeper.

Chemical aging of wood

Of course, there are enthusiasts who poison the tree with active chemicals, such as alkali, ammonia and various acids (oak, for example, is advised to be poisoned with vitriol). Such treatment changes color and usually "eats" the soft fibers of the wood, and reveals pores in hard woods.

Usually applied as gels, soaked or steamed.

You can see more here:

Dyes and pigments in combination with varnishes, paints, oils and waxes can "age" wood, both by independent methods and by emphasizing mechanically "aged" wood. You can read about which oils polymerize in the article on wood stabilization.

Here is one of good examples artificial aging wood(photo 1200*900):

And another selection of real examples of artificial aging of wood:

Long ago I promised to tell how to age wood specific example . An example is this:

1. Creation base surface mechanical aging of wood:

Smoothing and grinding of sharp corners in places where the greatest use is likely

This technique is used in other places, all the same, our subconscious associates such places as very worn and old

Application of traces of machining

In my case, these are traces of an abrasive tool.

2. Sanding fine abrasive (180) of the entire surface

3. Application of the base coating. It can be a regular colorless or tinted lacquer for toning. Pictured is the top board.

This is done so that the tree does not dry out and creates an intermediate layer for "patina".

Tinted varnish is applied, and the excess is immediately wiped off with a dry cloth to reveal the texture of the wood, mechanical damage and leaving smears from the cloth.

4. More detailed mechanical aging of wood:

Marking and drilling wormholes

Refinement and / or addition major damage(wear, bumps, scratches)

Adding a network of small damage with a bag of nails, screws, nuts, balls and other metal "garbage"

5. Gentle grinding (400)

6. Application"patina". In quotation marks, because it is not a patina, but an imitation of old "age-old" dirt, which is similar to the patina that forms on metal

It is applied in the same way as tinted varnish, only more carefully. It should get into all the recesses and damage and leave picturesque stains. "Drawing" the darkened areas of the tree near the cluster of wormholes...

If at this stage the top layer of paintwork is sanded off, you get the same effect as in the second photo. The third photo is the same, but with toning.

7. Gentle grinding(400) and polishing of the patina on outside corners and places of frequent use (lower board in the photo in paragraph No. 3).

8. Application of tinted varnish. It is applied creatively so that uneven colors and strokes are visible.

Toned lacquer on the right, patina on the left.

9. Gentle grinding (400)

10. Conventional protective varnish with interlayer grinding. Can be blown out with a spray gun.

11. Application of diluted "patina". We rub into all the cracks. We wait until it dries and polish the surface along the tops so that the patina remains only in damages, recesses and inner corners.

On the second photo from the left finished board made of aged wood with "patina", on the right without it.

Ready.

Whatever else I remember, I'll add. What do you remember - also add in the comments.

[comments/talk]

elena (14:04 01/29/2019)
http://master-san01.ru/starenie-drevesiny-svoimi-rukami/#more-34

elena (13:53 01/29/2019)
if you take paint in special stores, they can tell you how to work, what you should not mix with what and how to achieve a certain result. samples are also available.http://master-san01.ru/starenie-drevesiny-svoimi-rukami/#more-34

Andrew (08:39 07/15/2014)
If I understand correctly, then
- first tint the floor in an "ashy" color
- then varnish (possibly several layers)
- applying black paint and erasing it from hard wood fibers (or there are special patinas that are erased when dry)
- more varnish (possibly several layers)
It is better to select a specific technique experimentally with those paintwork materials that you are thinking of using.

IGOR (22:29 07/14/2014)
GOOD NIGHT! I got acquainted with your technology for painting brushed wood
have not yet practiced. I want to ask you a specific question how to paint brushed pine, spruce under ash oak with black veins I would like the veins to be clearly expressed and the solid structures to be whitish how to do this
I covered the oak parquet in the apartment with tinted (walnut) foam with tikurila and then 2 layers of selko lacquer - the structure was expressed, but it is oak, but what about a pine tree
the inner surface of the painting is about 250 m2, then some kind of technology (and preferably budgetary) is needed if it’s not difficult, please tell me in advance, thank you.

- This is a long and painstaking process, consisting of mechanical processing of wood and work with paints and varnishes. This finishing method is associated with Leon42, a participant in the forum "House and Dacha", with naturalness, antiquity, folk culture.

According to Leon42, buy furniture and brush it with a metal brush - this is not yet aging it, but simply scratching or, at best, making a textured surface. Furniture bought in a store - made of lamellas and "skinny" - is not suitable for texturing, it looks rather sad and flawed.

leon42 believes that furniture for brushing should be rough and massive, capable of conveying natural beauty tree.

It is the superficial approach to the aging of wood, according to the forum member, that forms the opinion of many people about products processed using this technology as “furniture of fire victims”. Meanwhile, the combination of aged wood with metal, stone or ceramics in the interior is always a fashionable and stylish technique that allows all the inhabitants of the house to touch eternity and feel like in the Middle Ages.

Under natural conditions, wind and moisture, sun and temperature changes "work" on the aging of a tree. How to do what has been happening for many decades, in a few days?

Material preparation

For brushing, it is better to use soft and medium hard wood with a pronounced texture, such as spruce, pine or larch. In these wood species, soft fibers are formed, as a rule, in the spring-summer period, when there is an intensive growth of annual rings, and they are more “loose”.

Wood with a uniform and unexpressed texture like beech and maple is not suitable for aging.

Before working with wood, prepare its surface. Eliminate all defects and dirt, whether traces of sweat, grease or other stains that may appear during the application of the tinting composition. Any products (small architectural forms, furniture, etc.) process, having previously disassembled: you will spend less time and can get it everywhere with a brush.

brushing

Brushing (English brush - “brush”), or texturing a tree is giving it a relief characteristic of old wood. At the initial stage, soft fibers are removed from solid wood. There are several processing options: light aging - a barely noticeable roughness is created on the surface, or deep and rough, when the depth of the roughness reaches 2-3 mm (for decorative elements, sometimes for rough furniture).

You can pre-treat any part, say, a ceiling beam, with an ax: make notches, trim the edges without fear of spoiling - no one but you knows what the result should be. In this case, you will receive a product with a deep microrelief of the surface and irregularities on it up to 20 mm deep.

Do not forget about the "traces" of the vital activity of bugs and worms. Simulate them before finishing using a drill or grinder. You can also apply simple elements threads: pigtails, dragons, etc. - you will get "Scandinavian style".

Sanding: tools and brushes

On the large enterprises they use machines and automatic lines, where everything is provided - from the feed rate of the workpiece to a powerful dust removal system. For an ordinary summer resident, such equipment is expensive and, in general, an unnecessary pleasure. If you will do this type of work often, it is better to purchase a brushing machine. The most common and publicly available is Makita. The most economical and simple option is a “grinder” or a drill, preferably with the ability to adjust the speed.

The whole brushing process can be divided into three stages:

Rough selection of soft fibers
Grinding
Polishing

Accordingly, each of them needs its own brush. At the first stage ( brushing) use metal (brushing). If you are making structures for the outdoors - a gazebo, a canopy, a fence, etc., then most likely this will be your only brush.

When processing with a metal brush, scratches can remain on the annual rings themselves, which are difficult to get rid of during further processing.

When working with kratsovka, you must adhere to the following rules:

brush along the fibers, otherwise damage the annual rings and ruin the woody pattern;
the speed of movement of the brush and the pressure should be approximately the same, otherwise pits will result;
the light source should be placed on the side under acute angle, directing a beam of light across the fibers - this way you can better see the surface to be treated;
do not press hard on the surface, do not overload the engine, otherwise it may cause premature equipment failure;
the speed of revolutions should not be higher than 3000, better - 2000-2500: the brush can quickly scatter;
be sure to work with glasses, do not neglect protective gloves: pieces of wire from the brush can fly off several meters, injuring others;
take care of respiratory protection and dust removal: during this work, even eyelashes are covered with “powdery mascara”, let alone the lungs;
a new brush needs to be “run in”, otherwise it will strongly “wave” the workpiece, after a while it will begin to process the surface cleaner;
work only in one direction (rotation), the reverse should not be turned on - this will “kill” the metal brush;
the humidity of the processed wood should not exceed 15%, otherwise, instead of a textured surface, you will get a shaggy-hairy one.

When processing sustainable and hard wood (larch, oak), be sure to use dust extraction systems: the dust of these wood species is considered carcinogenic and can cause lung cancer.

If you want to get rid of lint and get more quality finish , you will need another brush - plastic (nylon), or rather, a grinding disc made of polymer-abrasive material. The most common grain size is 120.

Abrasive brush - universal, characterized by a more delicate surface treatment. If you use this brush, you can do without a metal brush, especially if the item needs to be treated delicately or if you want to avoid the specific scratches left by brushes.

The principle of working with an abrasive brush is the same as with a metal one. It is better to reduce the speed to 1500 in order to extend the life of the brush. Dust when working with a plastic brush is finer and stickier, so do not forget about a respirator.

Surface treatment specifics:

do not grind the edges-edges and corners of the workpieces, especially if you do not plan to varnish them later: they will cling and chip off;
do not make a deep relief on the seats, table tops and other horizontal surfaces– they will make it difficult to clean the surface: stains from spilled drinks, crumbs, etc. will clog between the fibers;
in order to prevent clogging of dust and snags of a rag during cleaning, such surfaces must be sanded with an abrasive brush and fine-grained sandpaper.

The final stage of brushing - polishing or fine grinding: performed with sesal or other synthetic brushes. You can use fine-grained sandpaper, abrasive sponges, metal wool, removing dust from finished surface wide brush and vacuum cleaner.

Finishing operations

At the final stage, tinting is done (changing the color of wood by several tones), patination (underlining the texture of wood with special compounds that penetrate into the pores open during brushing), craquelure (the effect of cracking and drying out), and varnishing.

After brushing, the board will look like new, but with a textured surface. To give her old view, it is covered with various compositions, dark colors look more natural.

It is the right play with the color of brushed wood that gives it an aged look. Areas with soft wood (pores or depressions) are stained unevenly with more dark color, from solid (combs) - to lighter. V Lately options with light troughs and darker ridges are popular.

The easiest way is to apply a generous amount of dark stain and immediately wipe the area with a rag or a wide rubber spatula. In theory, stain should soak quickly into soft surfaces, but slower on ridges. However, this is often not the case in practice, so Leon42 stopped for more complicated way: after complete drying, the combs are polished with fine-grained sandpaper. This method requires further processing with varnish or colorless impregnations, so the top layer that is opened remains without a protective coating.

Another option is to use paint in two contrasting colors: the surface is completely painted over with the first color, then the second is applied. While the last coat dries, run with a wide rubber trowel, removing excess paint and exposing the ridges of the first coat.

Proper texturing is a simple but messy, time consuming and unhealthy process.

As a result of difficult and hard work, you will get decorative elements that carry the beauty of antiquity and at the same time have high strength. Every detail made with love with my own hands, will be unique.

According to the materials of the participant of the forum "House and Dacha"

Editor: Olga Travina

Brushing wood with your own hands is an interesting technology that allows you to artificially age a tree. The natural aging process takes decades. But now, with the help of special tools, this effect can be achieved at home quickly and without significant material costs. Aged material is ideal for decorating classic, vintage and rustic styles.

Brushing wood with your own hands: how the process is carried out

Residents of modern cities increasingly prefer styles with a pronounced individuality in the decor of the room: classic, vintage, rustic and country.

Under natural conditions, the process of wood aging drags on for decades, since the original patterns on the wood surface are formed slowly and unevenly. Therefore, this material is rare and expensive. But among modern technologies there is a simple and fast way to artificially age a tree. This process is called brushing. Interest in this method is shown not only by lovers of elite vintage furniture, but also by those who want to diversify the interior of country houses.

Do-it-yourself wood aging (brushing) is a decorative technology for processing wooden products, during which an artificial effect of antiquity is created for an ordinary wooden surface. The method got its name from the English word brush - brush. The aging process is also called wood structuring.

The depth of brushing the board depends on its purpose. If it is necessary to create the effect of deep aging, then the depth of irregularities and roughness can be up to 2-3 mm. It is not recommended for the floor to have a deep relief of wood, otherwise the coating will get very dirty and poorly washed. The optimal depth is 0.5-0.8 mm.

Tree aging methods: basic information

Used to structure wood special tools and techniques. It is based on the mechanical processing of wood with the help of special metal brushes that remove the upper soft fibers. Thanks to this, the hard surface is more clearly visible, forming a beautiful relief. But this is not the whole process of wood processing.

To emphasize the appearance and make the structure more distinct, the material is coated with special paints that have natural shades. Coloring is carried out unevenly: the depressions acquire a darker color, and the surface of the texture becomes light. This makes the relief more noticeable.

Useful advice! In order for the artificially aged material to be as similar as possible to the tree, the aging of which took place in a natural way, it is necessary to paint it in grey colour. In this case, the paint, even before it is completely dry, must be lubricated from the relief surface. This will create the effect of a tree that has stood in the open for about 10 years.

A tree with a fine-grained and indistinct structure is better not to use, since the brushing method is ineffective for such species. The following trees are not suitable for aging:

maple;

alder;
Cherry;
Birch;

Both soft and hard woods are suitable for aging wood. The main requirement is that the material has a clearly defined texture and layers with different hardness are visible. Wood brushing is best performed on the following species:

Pine;
ash;
nut;
larch;
wenge.

It is preferable to use coniferous wood for artificial structuring. The most affordable is pine. But this tree is not distinguished by its beauty and unusual pattern. And, unfortunately, brushing the pine will not fix much this situation. If you use larch and spruce, then the result of applying the method will delight you with a unique pattern and rich texture.

Aging technology allows you to create unusual textures that are suitable for interiors of different styles. Structured wood is used to create elements decorative finishes, furniture, floors. Brushed furniture looks unique and very beautiful.

Do-it-yourself wood aging: the benefits of brushing

Unlike the natural aging process, wood structuring helps to increase the strength of the material and its longevity. Brushing also prevents the material from rotting and damaging it from fungi and insects. This is due to the use of special antiseptic agents to protect the wooden surface.

The result of brushing is an excellent appearance of the material that meets the latest fashion trends. Using a variety of tools for woodworking and technology, you can get a lot of exclusive things and interior details. In this case, an artificial imitation of exotic woods will be created, the cost of which is much higher than the original price of the spent lumber.

Woodworking tools: brushes, machines and machines

At first glance, the process of artificial structuring may seem very complicated. But the do-it-yourself tree brushing method is the most affordable and easiest way to visually age. natural material. This can be done even by an inexperienced master.

To complete this task, you will need a minimum of equipment. In addition, brushing technology allows you to achieve excellent results both manually and mechanized way. Depending on the chosen method, the master will need different tools.

Brushing wood: a toolfor manual processing

During work, you will need certain tools for brushing wood.

Metal hand brushes are used to roughly remove soft fibers from the surface of the part, while leaving the hard ones intact. They are used for the primary processing of wood. The stiffness of the bristles depends on the length of the wire: the shorter it is, the stiffer the bristles. At the first stage of processing, it is better to give preference to a brush with the most rigid pile. It is desirable that the brush has a wide end part and is close in shape to a roller. This form guarantees a more uniform processing of wood.

Hand chisel - a tool with which you can apply deep longitudinal grooves of various curvatures in wood fiber. With the skillful use of this tool, you can get the material of maximum realism by applying deep cracks.

Coarse sanding paper for polishing is used to emphasize the texture of the material, making the natural pattern more clear. To achieve an optimal result in the process of work, it is necessary to move the emery along the fibers with pressure. Using paper with different grain sizes, you can get furrows of different depths and degrees of severity.

The grinder, equipped with special nozzles for brushing wood, is used at the initial stage for roughing and final processing of wood. At the beginning of work, a metal brush attachment is used on the grinder for brushing wood, at the final stage - with a copper or sisal bristle. Now very popular abrasive-polymer brushes. Such an instrument makes it possible to selectively remove soft fibers without affecting the hard ones.

Useful advice! If there is no brush of high rigidity, then with the help of a grinder you can cut the pile. This will make the bristles harder. When choosing the bristles of the brush, it is necessary to take into account that the bristles are 7-10 times thinner than soft wood fibers. It is better to use a brush with a straight bristle. When working with an abrasive-polymer brush, it is necessary to ensure that the surface of the wood does not burn when the robot is operated at high speeds.

After the first stage of processing, experts advise burning wood with a kerosene burner. A gas burner is not suitable for such work.

Roasting with a kerosene burner will help you complete the following steps:

remove small wood fibers;
dry the top layer of wood;
emphasize and highlight the natural structure of the tree.

Process automation: machines and machines for brushing wood

Consider the most popular models of specialized techniques for structuring a tree.

Festool rustofix ras 180 wood trimmer or brush machine. Wood brushing brushes can be purchased with this tool. They are of three types:

steel wire brush for primary processing of boards;
brush with synthetic bristles for intermediate grinding;
sisal or hair brushes for polishing the back surface of the product.

The Felisatti AGF 110/1010E grinder is suitable for processing both smooth and uneven surfaces. The tool comes with nylon and metal brushes.

Useful advice! It makes sense to buy a wood brushing machine only if large volumes of work are planned. Brushes for brushing wood can be bought both with a machine and purchased separately.

How to age a tree with your own hands: technologies

The process of aging opens up the widest possibilities for the master to change the structure and color of different types of wood. Before proceeding directly to structuring, the wood must be prepared. The material for brushing should be free of defects, notches and irregularities, and the humidity should be 10-12%, but not more than 15%. If the tree does not meet these characteristics, then the wood fibers will tear during processing, and a beautiful result from structuring will not work.

Let us consider in more detail the process of how to age a tree at home. The work with the material can be divided into several stages.

Before starting work, it is necessary to perform the primary processing of the part, namely: to moisten the tree. This will prevent the spread of dust throughout the room during operation.

You need to carefully select the speed: too high a speed of the brush can cause the wood to bake. When using a hand tool, this problem does not arise, but more effort needs to be applied. Also, manual processing will be delayed in time.

Useful advice! It is better to select the speed on a separate small sample of the tree. The optimal number of revolutions is 1500-2200, but for different breeds it may differ.

At the next stage, you can think about the decorative design of the part. For this, recesses and grooves of arbitrary shape are made with a chisel in different places of the part. In appearance, they will resemble cracks that appeared naturally.

Next comes the final polishing. To do this, you need a sisal or hair brush. This tool for wood will give the details a finished look, fully showing all the decorative texture. In manual processing, instead of a brush, fine-grained sandpaper with an abrasive surface is used. It will allow you to make a perfectly polished surface of the workpiece.

Then the wood must be well dried. It must be completely cleaned of dust and thus prepared for further painting and varnishing.

The use of stain will make the product look old by creating contrasting textured patterns. A generous application of the composition with quick removal of excess will allow you to paint parts with soft fibers and leave light areas with hard fibers. Soft fibers quickly absorb paint, which means they are dyed, while hard fibers do not have time to absorb the pigment during this time, so they remain light. A tree painted with gold or silver paint looks especially beautiful.

At the final stage, the product is polished again to remove the roughness and irregularities that appeared after staining.

Useful advice! Lacquering is carried out on completely dry and cleaned wood. To paint brushed parquet, it is necessary to use a special parquet varnish. This will allow the finished coating to maintain a presentable appearance and performance characteristics for a long time.

Wood brushing: features of wood chemical structuring

Stages of chemical brushing of wood:

Surface grinding and decontamination.
Apply a thin layer of chemicals to the surface of the part. During chemical structuring, the evaporation of reagents must be monitored. If necessary, it is recommended to reapply them.
When the chemical has worked, that is, softened the outer fibers, the part must be washed under running water and the remnants of the reagent removed with a soft bristle brush.
Next, the tree must be thoroughly dried, painted or varnished.

Brushing a wooden surface is an unusual way to make a piece of wood more beautiful, unusual and attractive. This method is very popular among interior designers and ordinary people, since everyone can artificially age a tree. You need to spend a little time and effort to get luxurious furniture or a chic original ceiling, stylized antique. For a better effect, patination of furniture can be carried out.

Artificial brushing of wood: the price of work

The cost of each stage of artificial aging is usually calculated separately. You can order separately grinding or just impregnation. The most profitable option is a full brushing service from the beginning of work to the final coverage with the purchase of material. It is possible to perform artificial structuring from your material.

Wood brushing workshops perform an individual calculation of the cost of processing, depending on the type of wood, the size of the product and the list of services.

Brushing is performed over any kind of wooden materials:

bar;
lining;

planks;
block house;
planks.

Scope of application of tree structuring technology

The structuring method is very popular in the manufacture of interior items and room elements. Such wooden products will be an original addition to classic and vintage interiors. In addition, the advantage of brushing technology is the ability to independently create exclusive things. In addition, this method belongs to the category of simple processes available to everyone.

Fireplaces, shelves, columns, wall panels, as well as aged wood are used as ceiling beams with a brushed board. This material creates a unique entourage for living rooms and halls, halls of cafes and restaurants. The interior design is filled with aristocracy and luxury, and aged wood creates warmth and comfort in the room.

Wooden furniture with brushed elements looks stylish and sophisticated. Artificial aging and patination of wood with your own hands allows you to make absolutely any furniture: cabinets, chests of drawers, pegs, beds. The use of brushed elements in furniture and interior design has no restrictions and prohibitions - it all depends on your imagination and creativity.