Chrysanthemum withers in a pot what to do. What kind to choose in the store

Chrysanthemum - beautiful plant, whose homeland is Japan. According to legend, one cruel Chinese emperor heard that a beautiful flower was growing on one of the islands located next to his state, giving people immortality. However, in order for this quality to manifest itself, an honest person had to frustrate it. Deciding to obtain immortality, the emperor sent several chaste boys and girls to the island. However, the envoys did not return. The island was so beautiful that they decided to stay here and named the new country Japan. The beautiful flower of immortality - chrysanthemum - became its symbol.

Today this wonderful plant, whose homeland is indeed Japan and the Far East, is grown all over the world. Moreover, it is used not only in landscape design, but also planted as a houseplant. We will tell you about what care a chrysanthemum in a pot requires in this article.

How to choose the right variety

Of course, you can grow a single plant in a pot, but bush or Chinese chrysanthemums look much more beautiful and spectacular in this case. On the trunk of these varieties, many processes are formed, on each of which buds bloom. A properly planted bush chrysanthemum in a pot looks like a large bright flower ball.

This plant can reproduce in several ways. Hybrid forms are usually grown from seed. However, in most cases, home flower lovers plant common varietal chrysanthemums. Such flowers are most often propagated by cuttings. Let's see how a plant like chrysanthemum is grown in a pot. Home care for this flower should be done according to certain rules. Otherwise, it will be impossible to grow a beautiful spectacular bush.

Where to place

You should not install chrysanthemum on a windowsill on the south side. This plant does not tolerate too much heat. Direct sunlight is bound to cause burns. But it is not recommended to install a pot of chrysanthemum in the shade either. In this case, her flowering will be very poor. It is best to place the chrysanthemum near the window, but in such a way that it is in partial shade.

Landing

What to do with a chrysanthemum in a pot - we'll talk about this a little later. First, let's figure out how to plant it correctly. The material from the mother plant is cut with a sharp knife. You cannot break off the petioles, otherwise they may not start. Beautiful and lush bush will grow only if it has a sufficiently developed root system. Therefore, at the very beginning, the petioles are planted in a very large container. Several holes must be drilled at the bottom of the pot for drainage. Garden soil is poured into it, mixed with some kind of organic fertilizer.

The question of how to plant a chrysanthemum in a pot comes down to proper preparation soil. Before backfilling, the soil mixture must be subjected to heat treatment. Chrysanthemum is a rather delicate plant that easily becomes infected with all sorts of viral and fungal diseases.

The cut petioles are carefully dropped into the ground. After 20-25 days, roots are formed on them. As soon as this happens, they should be carefully, together with a lump of earth, transferred to a small flower pot... In this case adult plant take the form of a beautiful lush bouquet... Land in new pot pour the same. That is, they mix nutrient soil with organic fertilizer. Fertilized peat can also be used.

How to care for a home potted chrysanthemum: bush formation

In order for the plant to turn out lush, pinch the tops of all cuttings. This must be done before the buds appear. Otherwise, the plant simply will not bloom. Do not be afraid to remove not too "successful" side shoots. Plants will quickly release new ones.

A very effective bush can be obtained after cutting too small buds from it. The more they are removed, the larger the rest of the flowers will grow. The length of the future petals is not difficult to find out. Usually they are about three times the size of the bud itself.

Subsequently, when the bush grows well, the cuttings can be planted in different pots. But you can leave everything as it is.

How to fertilize

So, we figured out how to properly plant this plant. Now let's see how to care for a potted chrysanthemum. Of course, this plant, like any other, should be watered and fertilized periodically. Top dressing is applied some time after transplanting into a small pot. In this case, it is usually not organic matter that is used, but special tool- crystal solution. This fertilizer is specially formulated for chrysanthemums and contains magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, molybdenum, nitrogen and zinc. Such a rich feeding has beneficial influence on the root system plants.

You can also use a not too strong mullein solution as fertilizer. When watering, it is important for them to ensure that the spray does not fall on the leaves.

How to water a chrysanthemum in a pot

You will have to moisten the soil under the chrysanthemum very often. The plant is moisture-loving. Watering it should be done at least twice a week. In any case, it is impossible in any case to allow the soil to dry out in the pot. It is also not necessary to pour too much chrysanthemum. Otherwise, she may develop some fungal disease... Same experienced florists it is not advised to water the chrysanthemum after sunset. If the droplets on the leaves and stem do not dry quickly, it can also lead to fungal infection.

When asked how to care for a potted chrysanthemum, experienced growers usually advise to spray it periodically. Perform this procedure better in the morning- after sunrise, and in the evening - before sunset.

Diseases and pests

As already mentioned, this plant is not very resistant to various kinds of infections. Very often, a chrysanthemum in a pot becomes infected, for example, with powdery mildew. This disease is usually provoked by a lack of potassium in the soil and an excess nitrogen fertilizers... Infected leaves should be removed as soon as they are seen. The plant itself must be treated with Bordeaux liquid.

Also, quite often chrysanthemums are affected by gray rot. In this case, the leaves and stem of the plant turn black. This disease is provoked by an excess of nitrogen in the soil, waterlogging and lack of air circulation between the stems. It is almost impossible to cure gray rot. The affected parts of the plant should be cut off and burned.

Of the insects, the potted chrysanthemum is most often affected by the nematode. In this case, white spots appear between the veins of the leaves, which subsequently darken. Nematode infestation can occur through water or soil. This disease also cannot be cured. Diseased leaves and shoots are cut and burned.

Many amateurs indoor plants after the flowering of chrysanthemums, they simply throw out the bush. You can, of course, do that. However, it is best to keep the plant until next spring. To do this, you need to cut off the shoots from it so that only short petioles remain above the surface, and place the pot in a cool place. In the spring, new shoots will hatch from the ground.

Some varieties of chrysanthemums can grow quite tall. In this case, the stalk should be tied to some kind of support. You can use, for example, a very long pencil.

The optimum air temperature in the room where the chrysanthemum is grown is 10-25 degrees. In a room that is too hot, this plant will begin to wither. In the cold, it will not bloom. It is also not recommended to install the pot where the lamps burn for too long in the evening. Chrysanthemum is a plant of short daylight hours. It will feel uncomfortable with prolonged bright light.

Thus, we figured out how to grow a plant such as a chrysanthemum in a pot. Home care for this flower is not too difficult. The main thing is not to forget about watering, to form the bush correctly and not to expose the pot to the sun.

The potted chrysanthemum is a vibrant and attractive plant with lush flowers in a variety of hues. When it is acquired, in order to create favorable conditions for its development, it is necessary to observe simple, but very important rules... The plant will surely respond with gratitude by decorating the windowsill of any room. Many gardeners use it to decorate balconies in summer and autumn.

Chrysanthemums in a pot: the best varieties

Used for growing in open ground... It has long and tall stems, decorated with inflorescences. IN indoor conditions prefer more compact and undersized varieties and their types.

Today, thanks to breeding work, you can grow chrysanthemums with almost any color of flowers at home.

The most suitable species and varieties for growing in pots
Chrysanthemum Chinese, or mulberry	The plant is a hybrid, appearance which is the result of a long selection, which lasted several centuries, of chrysanthemums from China and Japan. Ideal for potting because it reaches a height of 30–100 cm, excluding pruning. Lush flowering, on strong stems with leaves 5-7 cm long, there are both individual large flowers and inflorescences in the form of bolls
Shrub chrysanthemum	The homeland of this species is the area of the Canary Islands in the Atlantic Ocean. The height of the plants does not exceed 1 m.Its inflorescences in the form of baskets have a diameter of approximately 5 cm.Thanks to the ability of the shrub chrysanthemum to adapt well to new conditions, it feels great at home or on the balcony in pots and containers
Chrysanthemum indian	Often found in flower shops in pots. At home, the height of the bush is 15–70 cm. The flowering is abundant, bright
Chrysanthemum korean
Chrysanthemum Zembla	It has large (10–12 cm) buds and shoot height. It can be grown both as bushes and as single plants. The color of the flowers can be varied, they often have petals with a greenish tint in the middle. It usually blooms in autumn, the cut branches of the plant stand in a vase for a very long time - about 3 weeks, without losing their decorative characteristics
"Aurora" (variety of Indian chrysanthemum)	Has bright and flat orange blossoms
"Snow Elf" (Indian chrysanthemum variety)	Strong stems of medium height, topped with double flowers-pompons of snow-white color
	A special type of bush chrysanthemum, suitable for indoor cultivation. A dwarf, branchy plant (maximum 20 cm in height), covered with small cute flowers
"Pink Cascade"	Ampel chrysanthemum is the dream of many flower growers. Cascading shoots decorated with pink flowers... You can grow this variety in hanging pots and on special stands
	It is a common product in shops. These plants can have different colors of flowers. Quite unpretentious, adapts well to home temperature and humidity, blooms for a long time and abundantly

Indoor chrysanthemum: home care

How to make the chrysanthemum show itself in all its glory? This plant doesn't require much. It is enough to pay attention to the place where the pot with it stands, try to observe the temperature regime and the required humidity. Periodically, you need to remember about timely pruning and transplanting.

Optimal growing conditions

When the plant is in the house, you should decide on the windowsill on which the pot will be placed. For chrysanthemum ideal place will become the east or west side of the house. On the northern window, it will lack ultraviolet radiation and is unlikely to bloom under such conditions. In the south, the sun's rays are too aggressive and contribute to a reduction in the flowering period, moisture loss and burns of the green part. It is also important to consider that the flowering of the culture begins when the duration of daylight hours is from 8 to 10 hours. Therefore, if necessary, it must be closed with a cap made of thick cardboard or a box.

How to care for a room chrysanthemum (video)

The best temperature for a chrysanthemum is:

in the summer months - about 22 ° C;
with the onset of autumn - about 17 ° C;
in winter it is much lower: from 3 to 8 ° C.

Caring for the plant also consists in maintaining the necessary air humidity, which the chrysanthemum prefers high. Therefore, next to the pot, you can install a container with water or a tray filled with moistened expanded clay. This flower in warm time years should be sprayed from a spray bottle.

Watering and fertilizing

Chrysanthemum loves abundant watering, but you need to make sure that no water stagnates in the pot. This can lead to decay of its root system and the death of the plant. It is enough just to water when upper layer the soil became dry... In winter, this procedure can be carried out 1 - 2 times a month.

Beautifully flowering bushes respond well to root dressing using organic fertilizers and balanced mineral complexes. This will ensure the strength of the stems, stimulate the formation and opening of buds. Complex fertilizers produced for flower indoor plants are well suited.

Protection against diseases and pests

To reduce the risk of chrysanthemum damage by diseases and pests, it is enough to properly care for it and periodically inspect the plant. After she got into the house, the flower must be kept "in quarantine" for 3 weeks, that is, in isolation from other plants. Same it is important to maintain the necessary air humidity and earthy coma; strengthen the plant with top dressing and ventilate the room, avoiding drafts.

Features and timing of trimming

Starting from the moment the chrysanthemum is acquired, you need to start forming the bush by pinching the shoots. It is enough to leave 4–6 nodes on each branch. This will contribute to the branchiness and volume of the plant. You can give the chrysanthemum the desired size and shape.

If the formation of buds does not occur, then the long shoots of the plant are cut off with sharp scissors or pruning shears, while processing the cuts with activated carbon. It will also be necessary to shorten the branches after flowering, when the flowers have just begun to wither: this will help preserve the strength of the plant. All peduncles are cut off, leaving no more than 15 cm of shoots, the pot is transferred to a cool place.

How to transplant a purchased homemade chrysanthemum

Some growers prefer to transplant store-bought chrysanthemums immediately into new soil. It is recommended to do this with all plants brought from abroad, because they are on sale in the transport soil. Others prefer to let the plant bloom.

For transplanting after purchase, you will need to take a pot, the volume of which is slightly larger than the size of the root system, and fill it with a substrate, not forgetting about drainage. It should be remembered that chrysanthemum does not like acidic soils. A mixture of turf soil with peat and humus in equal parts is well suited. For less trauma to the root system, it is recommended to use the transshipment method.

Growing problems

Many who have a chrysanthemum at home are wondering why it does not bloom with the onset of autumn. There may be several reasons:

lack of sunlight;
deficit in nutrients Oh;
lack of cropping;
long daylight hours.

To make chrysanthemum bloom, you need to find mistakes in care and fix them.

Another common problem when the plant stretches upward can also be due to poor lighting and inadequate nutrition. We must not forget that chrysanthemum bushes need to be regularly pruned for branching.

The most common diseases of this flower include:

aspermia caused by the virus (the shape of the flowers changes, the leaves are covered with specks);
seedlessness, also of a viral nature (appears yellow tint);
verticillosis - slow death of a plant due to infection;
dwarfism caused by a virus;
mosaic (virus) - the appearance of a characteristic pattern on leaf plates;
powdery mildew (virus) - the formation of a white bloom;
ring spot (virus) - the appearance of yellow rings;
rust (fungus);
septoria (fungus) - the appearance of brown spots;
gray rot (fungus) - gray bloom.

Chrysanthemum is also often affected by pests: spider mites, aphids and thrips. Plants that get sick with the virus must be destroyed immediately, as they will die and infect other indoor flowers. Can be used to treat infections chemicals... Pests are handled well by special insecticides sold in stores.

Caring for a potted chrysanthemum after flowering

When the plant fades, it begins a dormant period. Therefore, all flower stalks must be pruned at the very beginning of wilting. This will allow the chrysanthemum to maintain its strength. Then the pot is transferred to a cool room (you can use an unheated loggia or basement), where the temperature is 3 - 8 ° C, watering is reduced. With the appearance of the spring rays of the sun, the flower is again placed in a warm room, they begin to regularly feed and water it.

Why chrysanthemum in a pot dries (video)

Chrysanthemum - flowering plant that you can grow on your windowsill. You just need to create suitable conditions for it, depending on the season. This is a flower that has a reduced immunity to diseases, therefore it is necessary to regularly examine it and treat it if necessary. If desired, it is possible to choose an original variety with bright, memorable flowers of various shades.

Growing chrysanthemums in pots is a popular activity among many gardeners, but often it brings more than just joy, for example, when chrysanthemum leaves dry. Gardeners are perplexed about such consequences, they are convinced that they care for indoor chrysanthemums well and correctly. But often too much care harms the plants. In addition, there are many reasons for the wilting of leaves in flowers.

Chrysanthemum diseases can usually be seen with the naked eye.

Causes of the appearance of dried leaves

Chrysanthemum leaves and buds dry for a number of reasons: among them diseases, pest attacks, mistakes made when leaving. It is important to have an idea of the symptoms of a particular ailment in order to take action at the initial stage, not to let the chrysanthemums dry out completely.

Gray rot

The causative agent of gray rot is a fungus that begins its path through the plant from the roots in the ground, often its appearance is facilitated by improper watering, an erroneous fertilization schedule. First, the leaves and stems, due to the attack of gray rot, acquire a gray-brown color, then a kind of plaque is formed, and at the final stage the leaves dry up and fall off. The danger of gray rot in the possibility of death of flowers.

Powdery mildew

This common phenomenon also occurs as a result of the negative effects of the fungus. Factors contributing to the appearance powdery mildew, are abundant watering and prolonged rains. The primary symptom is white bloom on the leaves, which soon darkens. At further development the disease spreads to the buds, and they dry up.

This harmful insect can be found on a chrysanthemum sold in a store, you must carefully examine the leaves for the presence of cobwebs on inside leaves. The mites suck out the juices of the plant, as a result of which the leaves wither and dry up, turning into lifeless tubules.

The spider mite chews through the delicate tissue of the leaves quite easily and sucks out the liquid

Brown aphid

A harmful insect attacking chrysanthemum leaves from the underside, from this they turn yellow, dry up and fall off. Aphids do not allow the buds to open, they wither and dry. Brown aphids are spread by a virus that has entered the plant.

Weevils and saricids

Weevil is an insect with a peculiar long nose, the insect attacks flower buds, causing them to dry out. Saricides also prefer to settle in the buds of chrysanthemums, they are attracted high humidity, rotting food debris. Weevils and saricids come to life when daylight ends and the room is plunged into darkness.

Thrips

One of the main signs of the appearance of the thrips pest is the appearance of spots on the leaves, changing their color from red to dark brown. Thrips has a negative effect on the shape and development of leaves: they dry out and deform.

Slobbering penny

You can determine the presence of this insect on chrysanthemums by the presence of foam on parts of the plant. Its formation is facilitated by high humidity, high temperature in the room, long-term presence of the flower in greenhouse conditions without ventilation. A slobbering penny has a destructive effect on the leaves - they darken, dry and fall off.

Chrysanthemum nematode

Nematodosis

The disease is provoked by worms in the form of threads that settle in the soil, it is difficult to notice them with the naked eye. The main blow falls on the leaves, which darken, dry out and crumble over time. If the nematodes have affected the buds, then the inflorescences also darken and dry out in the future. Immediate transplantation of diseased plants from healthy ones is required.

Septoriasis

This fungal disease manifests itself in the formation brown spots on leaves that gradually turn black. Also, these spots grow extremely quickly in size, occupying the entire area of the leaf, which dries up. To save a flower, it is necessary to cut off the infected leaves, if this is not done, then you will have to get rid of the entire plant.

Ascochitosis

With this disease, the fungus spreads from lower leaves, gradually affecting the entire leaf plate, on which mottling forms. Often such leaves rot and dry out. When ascochitis is found, the only way out is to burn the diseased parts of the chrysanthemum.

Fungal disease ascochitis

Improper care

If the leaves of a room chrysanthemum dry, then it is necessary to check whether the care is being carried out correctly. Popular causes of dried leaves include:

sudden changes in temperature negatively affect the state of a flower standing in a pot on a windowsill;
too high or too low room temperature;
dry air that dries indoor chrysanthemums, standing next to with batteries;
abundant watering, which negatively affects the state of the leaves;
increased amount of nitrogen-containing fertilizers.

Ways to solve the problem of drying leaves

There are several effective ways to help prevent dry chrysanthemum leaves, each of them can be used after the cause of the disease has been accurately identified. In some cases, it remains only to destroy the flower if there is a threat of infection of neighboring plants.

Fighting the fungus

The fungus is one of the most common misfortunes that provoke dry leaves. It is necessary to tune in to regular, at least 3 times a year, preventive measures for the treatment of fungicides:

Fundazole;
copper sulfate;
Bordeaux liquid;
Azophos.

The dose of fungicides must be precisely calibrated - any excess of the indicators is dangerous. The introduction of an increased dose is allowed during the growing season. When spraying, one should not forget about the soil - microorganisms live there that have a destructive effect on flowers. With a progressive disease, diseased parts or the entire plant must be burned.

Bordeaux mixture - good remedy prevention of fungal diseases.

Fighting the virus

The virus often acts as the causative agent of dangerous diseases, it is often carried by insects, the presence of which has a destructive effect on chrysanthemums. You can protect yourself from viruses by preventive spraying:

Aktelikom;
Confidor;
Fitoverm.

Folk remedies are also irreplaceable:

infusion of tobacco;
garlic solution;
infusion of bitter pepper.

Insect control

Many insects settle en masse on chrysanthemums, attacking all parts of the flower. Some people spoil the chrysanthemum so much that they often have to get rid of the entire plant completely. In order not to bring to this, it is necessary to regularly inspect all parts of the flower, paying close attention to the lower leaves - from there the pests begin their journey.

High-quality insecticides can cope with most insects (mites, weevils, saricides), treatment should be carried out 3 times with an interval of 5 days. Against spider mite the most effective is Aktelik. Water procedures also help fight the mite - it is useful to put the pot under the shower. But excess moisture is harmful if worms or flies are found on chrysanthemums.

Actellic is an effective but toxic agent that helps in pest control

Chrysanthemum care and prevention

For a chrysanthemum growing in a pot in a room environment, competent care is extremely important, consisting of a whole range of measures, the implementation of which must be carefully thought out.

Temperature regime

For everyone, the fact is obvious that dry air provokes drying of the leaves, but not all gardeners can provide the optimal temperature regime for chrysanthemum in a living room. The ideal range is 10 to 15 ° C, with temperatures above the leaves turn yellow and the buds dry. At a comfortable temperature, chrysanthemum grows faster and produces more buds... The plant will feel better in the heat if you make partial shade with curtains or blinds, as well as provide constant access fresh air, but without a draft.

Watering and humidity

Without timely watering, flower buds wither and dry out. The lack of moisture is felt by the dryness of the top layer of the earth, optimal watering is every 5 days. If the soil is dry, then the interval should be shortened, in the heat it can be watered twice a day. For irrigation, you should choose rainwater, filtered or settled water, you can not use hard water. Also, excess moisture should not be allowed, which leads to the drying of the roots and leaves of the plant.

Another important procedure is spraying, which increases humidity for chrysanthemums, which are accustomed to growing in outdoor conditions. For spraying, which is best done in the morning, it is important to use only filtered water to avoid damaging the sensitive leaves.

Lighting

Chrysanthemums bloom with a decrease in daylight hours, 8-9 hours of light per day is enough for them. It is necessary to protect indoor flowers from direct sunlight. You need to stick to the golden mean and place the pot on the west or east side, on the south side the chrysanthemum will dry out.

The soil

The earth, in which all parts of the chrysanthemum can feel comfortable, should be about 70% nitrogen, it should also have a significant content of potassium, and phosphorus should be at a minimum.

The optimal composition of an earthen mixture for indoor chrysanthemums, which can be made at home:

garden land;
turf;
humus;
river sand.

When planting and transplanting, some growers add chicken droppings to the soil. The earth should be constantly loosened, cultivated so that it does not roll into lumps, and all parts of the chrysanthemum grow evenly.

Timely transplants play an important role in preventing the plant from drying out: for chrysanthemums under 5 years old - annually, for older specimens - 2 times a year. It is preferable to replant the plant in early spring, completely renewing the soil. It is necessary to follow the transplant rules:

the diameter of the pot should be 2 cm larger than the previous one;
drainage is required;
there should be no voids in the earthen layer, but it is not necessary to fill up the earth to the very top of the pot so that water does not spill during irrigation;
immediately after transplanting, the chrysanthemum needs good watering.

Fertilization

An important component of care is competent fertilization; in case of mistakes, there is a high probability of drying out of the leaves and cessation of growth. Rules:

feeding should begin 2 weeks after planting, if there is a lack of nutrients, if they are enough, then fertilizers must be applied no earlier than a month after transplanting;
the optimal fertilization regime is 2 times a month;
give nitrogen-containing fertilizers only during the growing season, if they are not enough, then few inflorescences will appear;
at the time of budding, apply potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, which give the flowers splendor, they are especially needed for terry varieties;
the variety of chrysanthemums must be considered when adding nutrients.

Nitrogen fertilizers are sometimes applied in the fall to grow the root system.

Pruning

Cutting the stems and leaves of chrysanthemums is important, because the thickening does not allow air to circulate normally, which provokes unfavorable processes in the foliage.

For correct formation bush, the plant must be cut as follows:

cut the stems for the first time 2 weeks after planting;
it is necessary to cut off the top, on which there are 3-4 leaves, if necessary, pinch the top regularly;
process the places of cuts;
after the sample, apply nitrogenous fertilizer;
pruning is contraindicated during the transplant period;
to accelerate flowering, it is recommended to cut off small and weak buds;
after flowering, the stems should be cut 10 cm;
be sure to cut off diseased stems.

Thanks to pruning, the chrysanthemum will acquire a spherical shape. Such pruning is carried out in the fall, after which the pot must be placed in a cool and dark place - balcony, terrace, veranda - until spring. It is also necessary to get rid of old and wilted inflorescences in time, completely infected plant parts should be burned without a residue.

Correct planting of chrysanthemums in a pot

Often varieties of Indian, Chinese, Korean chrysanthemums are purchased for keeping at home, they are unpretentious in care and easily adapt to home conditions. When buying a room chrysanthemum, you often need to plant it in a pot, but this must be done carefully so that the flower develops normally, there are no prerequisites for adverse changes, in particular, for the leaves to dry out. You must adhere to certain rules:

if there are several chrysanthemum branches, then the pot should be larger, the average diameter should be more than 10 cm;
the bottom of the pot should be covered with good drainage;
the soil mixture must contain compost;
take good care of the roots - they should partially remain on top;
immediately water the ground and spray the leaves;
the use of growth stimulants is allowed;
the pot must be placed where there will be enough sunlight.

If, when buying, you can see that the leaves of the room chrysanthemum are in a depressing state (turn yellow, dry), then you need:

transplant the flower into a smaller pot;
get rid of rotten roots;
do new soil for the pot yourself;
do not water the chrysanthemum for a couple of days;
spray growth stimulant Epin;
create greenhouse conditions, but with regular ventilation.

Conclusion

Many gardeners panic if the indoor chrysanthemum suddenly dried up, but you should not despair - you can help the plant if you approach it correctly. The first step should always be to pinpoint the exact cause and scale of the trouble. If only the leaves have dried up without visible signs, then it is enough to change the conditions of detention for everything to return to normal. If there are signs of illness and pest attacks, then there is a great danger of not saving the flower, this is an object lesson in the importance of taking preventive measures.

In late summer or early fall in flower shops and retail outlets colorful pots with chrysanthemums appear. Many people mistakenly think that these are annuals that can be taken out in the trash in winter. However, these bushes with proper care will delight with flowering for more than one year.

Indoor chrysanthemums - species

Among this riot of colors, at first, you cannot tell that all the pots differ from each other: the size and shape of the buds, the leaves and the type of crown. There are four types, among which indoor chrysanthemum flowers are divided into:

chinese indoor chrysanthemum, referring to hybrids with simple large double flowers, the plant is tall and grows up to 130 cm;
from the Canary Islands came to us shrub species, it grows up to a meter in height, in warm regions it can also be grown in the open field;
the record holder for the number in our markets - indian look, as he feels better on the windowsills and balconies;
bright balls - representatives korean look, they are in great demand.

How to care for a room chrysanthemum?

Correct care is the key to the flowering of the bush. It starts from the first days after purchase and continues even after flowering. Sometimes there is an opinion that caring for a room chrysanthemum is difficult and there is no guarantee of flowering for the next season. However, in many ways, the flower growers themselves are to blame, because they are trying to care for the chrysanthemum in the same way as for ordinary green plants on the windowsill.

Soil for indoor chrysanthemum

Land for room chrysanthemum is not something difficult or rare on sale. The soil is perfect for flowering indoor plants, it is universal for all types of chrysanthemums. It is important to feed the plant for good growth and flowering. Loves indoor chrysanthemum chicken droppings as a top dressing, it must be added in dosage, otherwise the soil will be too acidic. For the safety of the plant, the earth is always pierced in the oven. If the task is to get the maximum result, you can mix the ingredients yourself:

two parts of sod land;
part of deciduous;
part of the humus;
part of the sand, but with coarse grains.

Pot for indoor chrysanthemum

You can look after a new flowerpot for your green pet only for the next season:

How to care for a room chrysanthemum after purchase?

After a change of place, any living creature needs time to adapt and get used to it. On the other hand, such plants in stores pass special treatment, and the soil in the pot will be transportable. You can save the flower, for this there is quite simple recommendations, caring for a room chrysanthemum after purchase is as follows:

Indoor chrysanthemum - flowering

We purchase flowering bushes so that bright colors of buds decorate the windowsill. However, making a bush bloom is not easy. This is often the result of improper care. It also happens that a room chrysanthemum bush needs help to bloom, home care needs to be corrected:

the plant will bloom only at temperatures above 18 ° C, the bush does not feel well in extreme heat;
the flowering period will prolong the correct watering, when it turns out to maintain a balance and prevent the soil from drying out, do not forget about spraying with water in the morning and in the evening;
you cannot fertilize the ground before or after flowering, we feed the indoor chrysanthemum only after the opening of the buds appears - poor soil and little dressing common reason lack of flowering;
potash and phosphorus fertilizers have a beneficial effect on the appearance of buds;
if you do not pinch the shoots in time, the bush will stand green and lush, but without buds (it will not work to correct the situation, so you cannot forget about the formation of shoots);
when the daylight hours are less than seven hours, the plant does not have enough strength to bloom, it is important to provide a sufficient amount of light and heat.

Indoor chrysanthemum - care after flowering

The dormant period is a prerequisite for the further life of any plant. But it is not enough to cut off the faded buds from the shoots, competent wintering will help to prolong the life of the flower. When your indoor chrysanthemum has faded, there are four possible solutions for what to do next:

How to propagate indoor chrysanthemum?

When your chrysanthemum has grown stronger and gave young shoots, it can be propagated. There are several ways how indoor chrysanthemum reproduces:

Transplanting a room chrysanthemum

Young plants need a new flowerpot every season. Adult plants feel quite comfortable in the same flowerpot for two years in a row. Before transplanting an indoor chrysanthemum, you should prepare it. We replace the soil completely, but keep the recipe for its composition. Each subsequent flowerpot should be one and a half liters larger, and a couple of centimeters wider. The algorithm of actions is no different from planting young plants: do not forget about the drainage layer, we slightly compact the soil at the roots.

How to prune indoor chrysanthemums?

In addition to pruning after flowering, pruning is used to form a bush. In the question of how to care for indoor chrysanthemums in a pot, this moment is not the last:

the beginning of pruning for formation falls on the fifteenth day after planting the plant in a pot;
a piece with several leaves is cut from a stem about 12 cm long;
then start;
after another two weeks, new shoots can be found in the sinuses.

How to water indoor chrysanthemum?

One of the difficulties for a gardener is watering a room chrysanthemum. Here you will have to constantly maintain a balance between wet and wet soil. The classic solution with a saucer or a tray of water will not work either, this will lead to rotting of the roots. Varieties that can be grown in a pot were originally garden varieties - we do not neglect spraying, we carry out the procedure only in the morning.

Diseases of the room chrysanthemum

Frequent fungal diseases include verticillary wilting. This is one of the reasons why the leaves of the room chrysanthemum dry. Of these fungal diseases, one should be afraid and, and septoria, cause no less problems. Among the viral ailments, chrysanthemum is threatened by aspermia, dwarfism, ring spot and mosaic.

Flowers chrysanthemums (lat.Chrysanthemum) belong to the genus of herbaceous annuals and perennials of the Asteraceae family, or Astrovye. The genus includes about 30 species, representatives of which grow in zones with cool and temperate climate and mostly in Asia. In the garden culture, chrysanthemum has been known for more than a thousand years, and the plant got to Europe in the 17th century. Many chrysanthemums can be grown outdoors, but there are species that grow well in greenhouses and at home.

Planting and caring for chrysanthemums (in short)

Bloom: usually in autumn or winter.
Lighting: bright diffused light - western or eastern window sills.
Temperature: in summer - 20-23 ˚C, in autumn and spring - 15-18 ˚C, in winter - 3-8 ˚C.
Watering: during the period of active growth - at least 2 times a week: the substrate in the pot should be slightly damp all the time.
Air humidity: morning and evening spraying from a spray bottle is recommended.
Top dressing: during the period of active growth, an adult chrysanthemum is fed with mineral fertilizers every 10 days. When feeding with organic solutions in low concentration, observe intervals of 4 days. With the beginning of the formation of buds, feeding is stopped.
Rest period: after flowering is complete, cut the shoots and place the pot in a dark, cool place with a temperature of 2-3 ˚C until spring, when the plant begins to release new shoots.
Transfer: young plants - annually at the beginning of active growth. Adult plants are transplanted once every 2-3 years.
Reproduction: cuttings, dividing the bush, rarely seeds.
Pests: aphids, chrysanthemum nematodes, thrips and slobbering pennies.
Diseases: affected by powdery mildew, septoria and gray rot.

Read more about growing chrysanthemums below.

Home flower chrysanthemum - features

Home chrysanthemum is not large in size, since it is grown by artificially stopping its growth with specially developed preparations. Although there were cases that from the acquired cuttings home chrysanthemum it turned out to be a garden-sized plant.

Usually indoor chrysanthemums are low-growing varieties of mulberry or Chinese chrysanthemums, which are abundantly flowering bushes from 15 to 70 cm high.Their flowers can be small, up to 2.5 cm in diameter, or large - up to 5 cm in diameter, in addition the same varieties of home chrysanthemums differ in the shape of the flowers. In addition to Chinese chrysanthemum, varieties of Korean and Indian chrysanthemums are grown in home culture.

Chrysanthemum blooms at home, usually in autumn and winter, but in order for its flowering to last as long as possible, it should be created for the plant optimal conditions and follow certain rules of care.

Chrysanthemum care at home

How to care for chrysanthemums

What conditions does a home chrysanthemum require? How to care for a chrysanthemum in an apartment? Firstly, it is necessary to establish a comfortable temperature regime for it, secondly, to observe the required level of illumination, and thirdly, to maintain the water balance that is optimal for the flower.

It is difficult to call a chrysanthemum a heat-loving plant, so in summer it feels best at a temperature of 20-23 ºC, in autumn-spring at 15-18 ºC, and in winter at 3-8 ºC. It is with the observance of this temperature regime many buds are tied, and the flowering of the chrysanthemum is long and abundant.

As for lighting, growing chrysanthemums in a pot is carried out on the window sills of windows oriented to the east or west, since on the southern windows the flowers can wither away from the excess of the sun, and on the northern ones they bloom poorly. But chrysanthemums in pots feel best of all on cool, but well-lit verandas, balconies and loggias, and with the onset of real heat, it is advisable to take the chrysanthemum out into the yard.

During the active growth period, you will need to pinch and trim the chrysanthemum to form a thick and lush bush. In addition, it is necessary to regularly remove wilted inflorescences and yellowed leaves.

Watering chrysanthemums

Successful cultivation of chrysanthemums requires first and foremost correct watering... Chrysanthemum is moisture-loving, so the soil in its pot should be slightly moist all the time. Caring for chrysanthemums at home involves moistening the soil during the period of active growth at least twice a week. Make sure that the earthen ball does not dry out, but excess moisture in the pot and pallet must also not be allowed.

In hot weather, it is advisable to spray chrysanthemum in the morning or in the evening from a spray bottle. This is not to say that the flower needs spraying so badly, but this procedure refreshes the plant and adds to its attractiveness.

Chrysanthemum transplant

Caring for home potted chrysanthemums involves the annual transplanting of young plants into a large container. Adult chrysanthemums, if necessary, can be transplanted once every two to three years. As a substrate, you can use a mixture of ordinary garden soil, turf, humus and white sand in a ratio of 4: 4: 1: 1, and in order for the flowering of the chrysanthemum to be abundant, a little bird droppings should be added to the soil mixture. Don't plant chrysanthemums in acidic soil, they don't like that. Before filling a new pot with soil mixture, put a layer of drainage in it, and spill the substrate with boiling water and dry it.

Chrysanthemum feeding

Caring for a home chrysanthemum requires the introduction of fertilizers into the substrate. The plant responds well to complex mineral dressing as potassium and phosphorus stimulate flowering. In order for the plant to bloom as early as possible, it is fed with a solution of potassium monophosphate in a ratio of 1:10 or any other complex fertilizer in which the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium will be 1: 3: 2. Chrysanthemum reacts perfectly to liquid organic matter. An adult flower requires application to the ground mineral fertilizers every 10 days, and the mullein solution (1 part of the fertilizer dissolved in 10 liters of water) should be applied at intervals of 4 days. Chrysanthemum is fed until the beginning of bud formation.

Chrysanthemum care after flowering

As soon as the chrysanthemum has faded, it must be put into a dormant state. Cut off its shoots and place the pot with the plant in the cellar, where the chrysanthemum will wait for spring at a temperature of +2 to -3 ºC. As soon as the chrysanthemum begins to release new shoots, it will need to be transplanted into a large container and returned to its previous conditions.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums in the apartment

Reproduction of chrysanthemum by cuttings

The easiest way to propagate homemade chrysanthemum is green, non-lignified cuttings. As cuttings, lateral shoots about 10 cm long are cut from the branch, the leaves are removed from their lower part, and then the cuttings are placed in water so that the roots grow back. As soon as the length of the roots reaches 4-5 cm, they are planted in several pieces in pots with a drainage layer and a substrate of neutral or slightly alkaline reaction, the soil is compacted around them and watered. In order to stimulate the growth of lateral shoots, the tops of the cuttings are pinched.

You can plant cuttings directly into the ground, bypassing the stage of growing roots in water, but in this case you need to cover the pot with cuttings with a plastic cap to create a greenhouse effect. The cap is removed daily for a while for ventilation and condensation is removed from it. As soon as the leaves of the cuttings restore turgor, and this is a sure sign that rooting has occurred, the cap can be removed.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums by dividing the bush

During the next chrysanthemum transplant, it can be propagated by dividing the bush. The bush is removed from the pot, the root system is carefully freed from the soil, the plant is washed and divided with a sterile instrument so that each part has several shoots and well-developed roots. The cuts on the roots are treated with crushed coal. Planting chrysanthemums after division is carried out in the way we have already described.

Growing chrysanthemums from seeds

How to grow chrysanthemums from seeds? The best thing by seed method Korean varieties and hybrids breed. Chrysanthemum seeds are sown in shallow containers with a drainage layer and a substrate fried at a temperature of 110-130 º, consisting of peat and humus in equal parts. You can also use store bought as a substrate. flower land, which should also be disinfected before planting. Close up the seeds perennial varieties not necessary, they are only slightly pressed against the soil, sprayed with a spray bottle and covered with glass or film. They contain crops at a temperature of 23-25 ºC, ventilating, removing condensation from the coating and moistening the surface of the substrate as soon as the need arises.

Seedlings should appear in 1.5-2 weeks, and as soon as this happens, the boxes are transferred to the brightest place. The film is not removed from the crops immediately, but gradually increasing the duration of the ventilation sessions until the seedlings adapt to the conditions of the room.

At the stage of development of 2-4 true leaves, chrysanthemum seedlings are planted in separate containers with drainage and a substrate of the same composition, trying not to damage the roots. After transplanting, young plants are sprayed with a solution of Zircon or Epin-Extra, so that they take root faster and begin to develop. In the future, the temperature of the seedlings is lowered to 16-18 ºC and they continue to care for them, already as for adult plants.

As you can see, planting and caring for chrysanthemums at home is not at all difficult, while the pleasure of seeing blooming chrysanthemums in your apartment can hardly be overestimated.

Chrysanthemum pests and diseases

Chrysanthemum diseases

In improper conditions and with improper care, chrysanthemum can get sick with powdery mildew, septoria and gray rot.

Powdery mildew appears as a loose whitish bloom on the leaves, petioles and shoots of the plant. With the development of the disease, the plaque becomes denser, turns brown, and the chrysanthemum loses its decorative effect. They destroy the fungi that cause the disease by treating the plant with solutions of Fundazol, Topsin, Topaz, Skor or other fungicidal preparations.

Septoria is also a fungal disease that can be diagnosed by gray-brown or rusty spots with a yellow outline that appear on the leaves of the plant. These spots grow over the entire surface of the leaf, and black dots appear in their center - pycnidia of the fungus. Affected leaves and shoots dry up, the stems turn brown, wrinkle and bend. A diseased plant should be isolated, all affected leaves and shoots should be removed from it, and then treated with a solution of Cuproxat, Oxychom or copper sulfate... The chrysanthemum should be quarantined until you are sure it is healthy.

Gray rot, or botrytis, is also fungal in nature, but getting rid of this disease is more difficult than from powdery mildew or septoria. The disease covers terrestrial organs with a gray, fluffy coating, under which plant tissues die. Botrytis is destroyed with Bordeaux liquid, and it is better to treat the plant with this drug before flowering.

Chrysanthemum pests

Of the pests, aphids, chrysanthemum nematodes, thrips and slobbering pennies are dangerous for chrysanthemums.

Aphids, thrips and pennies are sucking pests that feed on the plant's cell sap. They are destroyed by treating chrysanthemums with insectoacaricidal preparations such as Aktellik, Derris, Confidor, Biotlin or Aktara.

As for the nematode, it is a tiny thread-like worm, and it is impossible to detect its presence on a chrysanthemum. The appearance of white mosaic spots between the veins of the lower leaves, which gradually turn brown, may indicate the defeat of the plant by nematodes. In the future, the leaves curl up, dry and fall off, and mosaic spots begin to appear on the upper leaves. Infection with nematodes of domestic chrysanthemum can occur through soil that has not been disinfected. Unfortunately, you will not be able to save the plant from death, so it must be destroyed along with the soil in which it grew.

Types and varieties of domestic chrysanthemums

As we already mentioned, undersized and dwarf varieties and hybrids of Chinese, Korean and Indian chrysanthemums are grown in room culture. Moreover, the founders of all modern varieties are Indian chrysanthemum, or small-flowered, and silk-leaved chrysanthemum, or large-flowered, or Chinese. The Korean chrysanthemum has a hybrid origin, although no one has seen the mulberry chrysanthemum growing in nature either. It should be said that the past is garden chrysanthemum dark and confusing, and therefore it is better not to delve into it. We offer you a description of the most popular of the currently existing varieties of home chrysanthemum:

Malchish-Kibalchish- the height of the bush is not more than 30 cm, and the diameter can reach 60 cm. This is a profusely blooming chrysanthemum with non-double chamomile-type inflorescences with a diameter of up to 7 cm in pink-lilac color;
Evening lights- height compact bush about 35 cm. Inflorescences are simple, up to 5.5 cm in diameter, red with a yellow ring around the middle;
First snow- the diameter is abundant flowering bush about half a meter, height no more than 35 cm. Inflorescences are white, semi-double, up to 5 cm in diameter;
Mascot- the bush does not exceed 25 cm in height. This variety has small dark crimson inflorescences up to 2 cm in diameter;
Cheburashka- compact hemispherical bushes up to 40 cm high with lilac double inflorescences up to 4 cm in diameter;
Barbara- a bush up to 40 cm high, blooming so profusely that sometimes leaves are not visible due to pinkish-lilac double inflorescences with a yellow center;
Flamingo- bush up to half a meter high with pale pink flowers up to 7.5 cm in diameter. Towards the center of the flower, the shade becomes more intense;
Pink cream- bushes up to 50 cm high with densely double inflorescences up to 8 cm in diameter of a lilac-pink hue, which eventually becomes creamy pink;
Leaf fall- a chameleon plant up to 45 cm high with red-pink inflorescences up to 7 cm in diameter, changing color to flesh-yellow;
Raspberry pompom – dwarf variety up to 30 cm high with pink-crimson hemispherical inflorescences up to 6 cm in diameter;
Okishore- a low, but powerful bush, reaching a height of 50 cm, with lilac-pink inflorescences up to 8 cm in diameter;
Syaivo- a variety of Ukrainian selection up to 60 cm high with large egg-yellow inflorescences up to 8 cm in diameter;
Apple blossom- bushes no more than 50 cm high with thick strong shoots and pinkish-white double inflorescences up to 8 cm in diameter.