Warm floor electric thin. Varieties of electric underfloor heating and their characteristics

The desire of a person to create comfortable living conditions for himself led to the development different systems heating. Among them, structures built into the floor and powered by electricity have recently become increasingly popular.

Types of electric underfloor heating

Manufacturers produce various modifications that can be conditionally combined by the type of heating element:

1. cable heating;

2. heating mats;

3. film infrared emitter;

4. liquid-electric designs.

The physical principles underlying the operation of an electric underfloor heating

Cable heating with resistive cores

When electricity is transmitted on the basis of the Joule-Lenz law, heat is released. This pattern is at the core of the work. heating elements.

If in conventional wires select metals and their cross-section in order to reduce heat losses at maximum load, then in the underfloor heating system they create structures that can emit maximum amount thermal energy for a long time without compromising performance.

For this, heating elements are created in the form of cable structures, consisting of:

a conductive thread of a resistive type that generates heat;

a layer of teflon insulation made of heat-resistant PVC-plastic.

These cables can be made with one internal conductor or two. They are used for different ways installation and connection. Manufacturers give them a guarantee of 20 years or more, subject to the rules of operation.

The two-core cable has an extra layer of insulation located between the thin braided shield copper wire and a dielectric heat-resistant coating of the conductors. One of the cores has the function of a heating element, and the second, as a simple conductive, is placed parallel to the first. This arrangement significantly reduces the level of radiation of the electromagnetic field and its effect on the environment.

A typical construction of a resistive cable is shown in the picture.

During the operation of these structures, the balance of heat released from the electric current passing through the veins and its removal into the heated floor must be observed. For this, all areas of the floor adjacent to the cable are created with a homogeneous structure that provides uniform thermal and mechanical loads.

Resistive cable is filled with cement-sand screed of a certain thickness, which can be additionally covered with a layer ceramic tiles, laminate or other flooring materials.

Self-regulating heating cables

In the underfloor heating system, self-regulating heating cable designs can be used. They have ordinary conductive rather than heating conductors, between which there is a semiconductor matrix with a huge number of independent elements. Its dielectric properties are determined by these semiconductors, which react to changes in their surrounding temperature.

When a section of the self-regulating cable is cooled, then inside the matrix due to semiconductors a structure is created with a large number of paths for the passage of current through them, which heats the cable and the layers surrounding it.

At an average temperature, the structure of semiconductors increases the electrical resistance, reducing the conditions for the flow of current through them and, thereby, somewhat reduces the generation of heat.

If a section of the cable is very hot, then the number of paths for the passage of current in it is sharply limited, reducing its electrical conductivity.

In this way, the ambient heating temperature is controlled even without a thermostat and temperature sensors. Self-regulating cables are more convenient to use because they do not need to create a homogeneous structure for heat transfer, like their resistive counterparts. Their individual sections can be subjected to various temperature loads.

Cable mats

At first, when installing a warm floor, resistive cables were simply laid out on the floor in the form of a snake, and then fixed with fasteners. This technology is still used today for single-core and two-core structures.

However, manufacturers began to produce cable mats. An example of such a construction is shown in the picture, where the cable itself is already woven into a soft dielectric mesh in a certain way. It no longer needs to be laid out carefully. It is enough just to roll out the folded roll along the length of the room for subsequent fixation with mortar.

Cold leads for connection cable mat v electrical circuit included in the scope of delivery. They are connected through special adapters-couplings. Connection "directly" is prohibited by the installation technology.

If it becomes necessary to turn the direction of the layout, then the fastening mesh can be easily cut with ordinary scissors without touching the cable, which then simply turns in the desired direction at any angle.

This makes it easier to lay out the mat in any room in an even layer. In this case, it is easier to avoid the overlap of separate sections of the cable with each other.

Film infrared heating sex

This technology is based on the use emanating from thin heating elements through which they pass electricity.

They are made with carbon strips located between two layers. special film... Carbon (carbon fiber) is applied using nano-spraying methods with a layer thickness measured down to one micron, and insulated on both sides with a thin but very strong polymer film with high dielectric properties.

The carbon strips are connected to copper rails, which serve as conductors for supplying voltage.

Heating, carried out by infrared rays from a warm floor, by its nature does not differ in any way from natural heating by the light of the sun. Only the floor temperature is brought to 30 ÷ 35 degrees and directed from the bottom up.

Liquid-electric structures

Electric-water developments of underfloor heating combine electric heating of the filaments with the subsequent transfer of heat through a heat carrier - water, located in a sealed tube made of plastic with high-strength mechanical characteristics.

The entire structure is assembled as a seven-core cable using chromium-nickel filament alloys and a silicone-Teflon-coated sheath.

The silicone layer can withstand temperatures up to 280 degrees, having high dielectric properties. The Teflon coating provides a barrier to water penetration and is highly resistant to chemicals.

The liquid filling the cable successfully withstands even a twenty-degree frost without freezing, but it quickly boils when passing through the threads of an electric current. During its boiling, heat is transferred faster environment... It provides.

The transfer of heat from the heating filaments to the boiling liquid and further to the underfloor heating environment protects the chromium-nickel alloy from overheating, prevents it from burning out, and allows it to be operated for a long time.

Since when the liquid boils inside the sealed shell, high blood pressure gases, then to reduce it, a special absorption system is used, which reduces this effect and ensures safe operation.

Reticulated polyethylene tubular cable housings have:

resistance to cooling at low temperatures;

crack resistance;

high impact resistance.

The design and composition of the electric underfloor heating

The room to be heated must be protected from constant drafts and heat leaks. For this purpose, all heating elements are mounted only on a layer of thermal insulation, which prevents energy losses for heating the floor slabs and escaping into the atmosphere.

A heating cable made according to one of the above schemes is located on a heat-insulating layer, fastened with mounting tape. Inside its snake, at the same distance between the turns, a corrugated tube is laid out with a temperature sensor placed in it, which will control the degree of floor heating.

This tube is sealed at one end. It is designed not only to accommodate the temperature sensor, but also to make it easy to replace in the event of a breakdown.

All installed heating elements together with this pipe will be filled with cement-sand screed. Its thickness depends on the construction of the cable and must be carefully applied in an even layer. Voids are not allowed. Ceramic tiles are glued on top or another floor covering is installed.

At a convenient height for work, the wall of the room is located, which controls the operation of the warm floor in automatic mode... When connecting it, you will need to bring wires from:

electrical panel power cable;

heating elements;

temperature sensor.

For execution hidden wiring it is necessary to provide for cable channels or carry out wall chasing.

Wiring diagrams for connecting floor heating elements to electrical wiring

It is important to remember that the installation and assembly of the circuit must be completed by checking the operation of electrical equipment under voltage before pouring the heating cables with a fixing solution. At this stage, it is easier to eliminate the malfunctions that have arisen.

Re-inclusion in work will be carried out after complete solidification of the solution in a month. Earlier, the tie will not harden and the cable will be damaged.

An example of connecting a warm floor, which includes two sets of heating cables and one thermostat with a sensor, is shown in the picture.

In the electrical panel from circuit breaker RCD is connected. It protects the entire circuit from possible leakage currents through the enclosures of electrical equipment, which are tied.

The temperature sensor is connected with a cable to the thermostat, which is connected to the power supply circuits through an RCD and, at the same time, controls the operation of the contactor through a separate cable. Contactor output circuits using junction box connected to heating elements.

The inclusion of a contactor in the circuit allows you to simultaneously control the operation of several heating sections and reduce the load on the electrical circuits of the thermostat.

The simplest thermostats for mechanical or electric type allow you to set only the temperature limits for regulating the heating of the floor covering.

More sophisticated electronically controlled models have the ability to use a weekly time-based schedule to operate the heaters at user-defined times of the day. Due to this, electricity consumption for floor heating is reduced when the owners are not in the apartment.

Choice of flooring

a natural stone;

ceramic tiles;

porcelain stoneware.

They transfer heat best through themselves to the room. The use of wood, parquet, laminate and other materials is also allowed. However, they have poorer heat transfer and can reduce the heating effect.

Deformation of the coating

Heating elements create temperature fluctuations at which the floor covering slightly changes its size. To avoid its deformation, small gaps should be created for the laminate elements. You cannot press it tightly against the walls and attach it to the baseboard. When exposed to heat, the floor should expand freely and remain completely flat.

Floor insulation

The choice of material for it allows the rational use of electricity, since it affects heat losses. In order to create comfortable heating, foil insulation is used, consisting of foamed polymer materials with a layer thickness of 3 to 10 mm. Its use saves electricity from 10 to 20%.

The use of hard grades of expanded polystyrene with a layer thickness of 3 cm and foil coated with polymer allows to reduce losses by up to 30%.

Electricity consumption

The efficiency of any electrical structure is determined by the amount of electricity expended on it. In order for the underfloor heating system to meet your needs, define the tasks for it, which can be:

constant heating of the room;

floor heating only in the morning and evening when the owner is at home;

maintaining a stable temperature during the daytime for a comfortable stay on the floor for young children;

any other conditions.

Determine the area of \ u200b \ u200bthe room and calculate the approximate cost of electricity for 1 hour of its operation or day, week, month. To do this, you can use the average operating data of the resistive heating cable to create comfortable conditions:

in dry rooms, 120 W is consumed per 1 m2;

in wet rooms- 140 W per 1m2.

For example, a room 2 by 3 meters in one hour of operation of a warm floor will consume 2x3x0.12 = 0.72 kW. With continuous operation for 10 hours, the power consumption will be 7.2 kW.

Electricity consumption for infrared film floor and water-electric floor is slightly more economical.

Maintainability

Although manufacturers guarantee the operation of the warm floor for a long time, however, provide for the occurrence of breakdowns individual parts and eliminating them by replacing them is best at the project stage. For this, the methods of connecting a temperature sensor with a thermostat should exclude the opening of a dried cement-sand floor screed when it becomes necessary to repair them.

Replacing the film near the infrared floor should not create unsolvable issues with difficult disassembly of the floor covering.

For liquid-electric modules, fluid and heating element replacement can be performed using a special junction box... It is mounted on the line of the finishing floor screed. And in the event of a violation of the integrity of the pipe, a small volume of the leaked liquid will indicate the place of damage. It is simply cut out after opening. Then the couplings are applied and the two-way fitting is connected.

Electric underfloor heating is popular for its ease of installation and durability. It also does not require the supply of any additional communications, except for electricity, therefore it is successfully used in private construction. It is not difficult to make an electric underfloor heating, its installation does not require special knowledge and takes a little time. Consider the main stages and important nuances you need to know when installing a warm floor.

Electric underfloor heating is successfully used in absolutely any type of premises. These can be apartment buildings or private houses, garages, baths or loggias. It is only important to correctly select the power of the system and provide sufficient thermal insulation. This method can be used as the only source of space heating. But electricity bills can go up dramatically.

Types of electric underfloor heating (ETP)

All options for organizing such systems are divided into three groups.

ETP based on heating wire. The whole system is a thermostat, a temperature sensor and a long double-insulated wire that produces heat. This is the cheapest, but also the most time consuming option. The wire must be laid out on the base floor and fixed in a special mounting tape. It is important to maintain the same distance between the turns of the wire and to avoid kinks and overlaps of the wire.
ETP based on heating mats. This option is more convenient in installation, since the wire is factory laid in special reinforcing mats and rigidly fixed in them. You do not need to worry about laying the wires, you just need to unfold the mats of the required power on the base and connect them. This saves a lot of time and reduces the risk of error.
ETP based on infrared film. This option is fundamentally different from the previous two. Heating occurs due to infrared radiation of carbon material deposited on a film base. This option is optional. cement screed, topcoat can be installed directly on top of the foil. However, this is the least reliable and uneconomical ETP option.

Comparative characteristics of cable and film underfloor heating

Signs	Film heating	Cable heating
Utility room	Not necessary	Not necessary
Floor thickness with screed	5-10 mm	50-100 mm
Installation time	1 day	1 day
Ready for operation	Straightaway	28 days
Installation options	Floor, ceiling, walls, any surface	Floor. Mounting on other surfaces is possible, but difficult
Reliability	If even a significant part of the system is damaged, the undamaged segments continue to work.	Any damage to the cable completely breaks down
Repair costs	Minimum	High, 100%
Service	Not required	Not required
Freezing in winter	Absent	Absent
Impact on health	Positive healing	Neutral on condition of good quality two-core cable
Heat distribution and influence on coatings	Uniform heating	Uneven temperature distribution, there are areas of increased temperature
Zoning		Possibility of organizing separate point zones
Expenses	Relatively low initially. Energy saving	Relatively low initial, operational - according to the counter

The principle of operation of the ETP

In the case of heating wires and mats, the conductor is heated by the electric current flowing in it. The wire heats the screed, which in turn heats the topcoat. Heating takes place by convection.

In the case of using infrared films, heating occurs by thermal radiation of the carbon layer, which occurs under the action of an electric current. This radiation heats the topcoat and objects close enough to the floor. From them, by convection, the air in the room is heated.

Temperature control is carried out using a temperature sensor and a thermostat through which the heated floor is connected.

How to choose the required power underfloor heating

Before calculating the power, you need to know whether the room will be heated only with the help of the ETP or it will complement the main heating system, creating additional comfort. Each manufacturer of an ETP in the technical data sheet of its product indicates which capacity must be selected in each case.

For most premises, a value of 120-140 W / m2 is selected as a comfortable ETP based on a heating wire or heating mat. If the ETP is made on the basis of infrared film, then the comfortable value is 150 W / m2.

If the room will be heated only by the ETP, then the value of 160-180 W / m2 for the heating wire or mat is selected, and for the infrared film the power should be equal to 220 W / m2.

If you use a heating mat or infrared film, then the power per square meter is known in advance and you just need to choose suitable option... In the case of using a heating cable, the power will depend on the distance between its turns. You need to know in advance the area and shape of the heating surface, after which, using the tables in the technical passport or instructions, you will determine the required distance. Usually it is 10-30 cm, depending on the power of the cable.

It is important to take into account the maximum possible load on the building's electrical network and to use switchgear rated for the respective load current.

What are the consequences of errors during the installation of the ETP

A common mistake is laying an ETP under massive furniture and household appliances... Insufficient cooling of the floor surface can cause the wire to overheat and fail.

Never switch on heating wires or mats until the screed is completely dry. Even short-term activation can lead to damage to the heater. Checking the integrity of the laid cable and the correct connection is possible only by measuring the resistance. This does not apply to the infrared film floor, it can and should be connected to the network for testing.

Do not bend, step on, or pull on the wire. All this can lead to damage to the conductor or insulation and damage to the entire system. Also, avoid damaging the heating foil if you are installing an infrared ECD.

Do not forget to check the insulation resistance at all stages of work, especially before pouring the screed. The value should not differ from that declared by the manufacturer by more than 10%. If you see a significant discrepancy in the values, pause and locate the damaged insulation. If you neglect this rule, then after the screed has dried, you can expect a very an unpleasant surprise in the form of an idle ETP.

Do not pour the temperature sensor directly into the screed. Place it in the corrugation, which will be filled with the screed. Sensors often fail, and if you fill it in a screed, then replacement will require a lot of effort.

When installing the infrared ETP, do not forget to insulate the live parts in the places where the film is cut. Otherwise, the protective equipment will constantly record the leakage current and turn off the power supply to your ETP.

ETP advantages and disadvantages

The advantages of the ETP are:

ease of installation of the structure. This is especially true for heating mats and infrared films. It is enough to simply spread them on the base and connect according to the instructions, this does not require any special knowledge;
high reliability and durability. Provided the insulation is intact, the heating wire or mats embedded in the screed have an almost unlimited service life;
high autonomy. ETP does not require connecting the house to the water supply and even works from electric generator... This allows it to be used in village houses and dachas.

The disadvantages of this heating method include:

relatively high price for heating the room. ETP consumes quite a lot of power, especially if it is the only heating method;
Due to the relatively low temperature of the floor surface, the air in the room warms up rather slowly. This is relevant if the ETP is the only source of heat and does not work constantly. For example, in country house in winter;
Since heating elements must not be placed under massive furniture, after the completion of the work, the global rearrangement of the furniture will be impossible.

Step-by-step instructions for ETP installation

Preparation of the base

The ETP floor must be laid on a clean, dry base. In the wall, it is necessary to grind a groove for the temperature regulator and the wire. Carefully sweep up any debris that has formed.

After that, you need to put a layer of thermal insulation on the base, for example, penofol or expanded polystyrene. If there is a heated room on the floor below, then it will be enough to put a layer of foam foam 5 mm thick. If there is an unheated room or ground under the underfloor heating, then it is necessary to use expanded polystyrene with a thickness of 20 mm to 50 mm, depending on the severity of winters in your area. Thermal insulation is fixed using any adhesive material.

Laying heating elements

Mark the floor prior to installation. It is important to highlight those areas that should not warm up. It is important to remember that a distance of 0.5 m must be observed to walls and large furniture, and the distance to heating devices, stoves and fireplaces not less than 0.3 m.

If you are installing a warm floor based on a heating wire, then first you need to install the mounting tape. It will fix the turns of the wire and prevent them from shifting. Lay the tape over the thermal insulation and secure with dowels.

Fastening the mounting tape

Unwind the heating wire carefully and lay it over the thermal insulation and mounting tape, strictly observing the parallelism of the turns and the gaps between them. Secure each turn with the fixing tabs on the mounting tape. The turns of the wire must never overlap. After finishing the installation, measure the insulation resistance, it should not differ from the standard by more than 10%.

If you are using infrared film, then carefully unwind it along the base, then connect the sheets of film together in parallel. Lead the wires to the place where the thermostat is installed.

Installing a temperature sensor

If you are installing an ETP based on a heating wire or mat, then the temperature sensor must be located in a corrugated tube. Make a small indentation in the thermal insulation layer and insert a 20 mm diameter tube into it. Tightly plug one end of the tube with insulation, and bring the other end above the floor level in the same place where the wires will come out.

Place the temperature probe at the end of the tube and make sure it can be easily removed. This is important in order to be able to replace the sensor after the floor has been filled with screed.

If you are using an infrared ECD, you can check it by turning it on, the floor should be warm to the touch.

Filling underfloor heating with a screed

If you use an infrared ETP, then pouring is not required, you can immediately proceed with the installation of the topcoat.

If you use a heating wire or mat, then pouring the screed is strictly required. It is necessary to fill with cement to a thickness of 30-50 mm. After the screed hardens, you can proceed with the installation of the topcoat, for example, tiles, laminate or linoleum. The first switching on of the warm floor can be carried out only after the screed is completely dry. Most manufacturers set a complete drying time of 28 days. This ensures that no voids form around the wire, which over time will cause the wire to burn out.

Video - Installation of heating mats

Video - Warm floor under the tiles

Video - Installation of underfloor heating Electrolux, cable

Video - Installation of film underfloor heating

Recently, it is customary to install additional heating systems in the house. Underfloor heating often plays this role. They allow you to more effectively beat the room and make the stay in the room more comfortable. But the choice of a specific type of underfloor heating is quite difficult, because manufacturers represent different types of heating systems, including an electric underfloor heating. Each such design provides for a specific heating method and has a number of differences. Therefore, it is important to know the advantages and disadvantages of all these types and the rules for their selection.

Device

Electric underfloor heating has many design features. So, this whole system includes several main parts. For film models, you need to make a special subfloor. In this case, electrical elements such as cables, mats, foil heaters are laid on a flat, smooth surface.

A separate element of the device of such a system is a thermostat. It allows you to control the heating parameters, independently turn on and off the heating. All heating elements and cables are connected to it, including the ends of the temperature sensors. An electric underfloor heating is laid under the floor coverings, but some structures can be laid on a screed, or you can do without using it, but on a solid foundation.

Not all models of underfloor heating include thermostats and sensors in their device. But this option can overheat and malfunction. That is why the best models are those whose device includes two heat sensors and a thermostat. The device of each specific type of underfloor heating differs, as well as its characteristics and cost.

The system also includes a residual current device. This is a device that is designed to protect against electric shock. The electric floor heats up due to the generation of heat in the heating wires. The heating elements have a special layer of insulation that makes the system safer and more stable.

Advantages and disadvantages

All electric underfloor heating in general has a number of advantages. So, in comparison with other types of underfloor heating, they have a rather long service life and at the same time provide high-quality and reliable floor heating. The floor temperature is approximately 25 - 27 degrees. This indicator is comfortable for the feet.

Heat from electric floors is perceived upward slowly and low, evenly warming up the entire floor area. Thus, in the room does not generate drafts at all, the temperature is evenly distributed... Another great advantage of electric underfloor heating is that they do not dry out the air. In a room with underfloor heating, air humidity is normal and permissible for human health.

An electric floor is much easier to install compared to other types. This is especially true for water heated floors, the installation of which is very difficult and is not allowed in all rooms. In addition, this floor does an excellent job with the function additional source heating large rooms when there is not enough battery power.

But in small rooms it can also be used as the main heating method, for example, in a bathroom, in a small kitchen, on a balcony or loggia. Such a floor will be able to evenly warm the air throughout the entire room with a small area. Another great advantage of electric underfloor heating is that they do not interfere with the interior layout and take up very little space. Floor coverings reliably cover such a system.

The underfloor heating system as a whole is not bulky and rather compact. Electric underfloor heating does not provide harmful effects on floor coverings. They smoothly transfer heat to it, allowing it to warm up evenly. Thanks to this, it is possible not only to heat the entire floor covering, but also to maintain the required floor and air temperature in the room.

But now, not all warm floors are ideal. Row electrical models has disadvantages. So, they are not suitable for installation under furniture, as they can overheat it. Wooden furniture without legs with a solid facade can dry out and lose its former luster. Therefore, you need to lay it only after you decide where what furniture will stand.

After that, you will not be able to rearrange, since the covering will already be spread and a place will already be allocated in advance where it is possible and where it is impossible to put furniture. But in this case, the core-based carbon floors do not have this disadvantage. Another disadvantage is that every room requires the installation of a thermostat. On the one hand, this is convenient, since you can adjust the temperature for each room individually, but on the other hand, this is an extra cost.

Another negative quality is that electric floors consume a lot of electricity. This can cost quite a lot of money, especially if you consider that they will not replace the main heating in many rooms and thus you will not be able to save money.

How much electricity does it consume?

When choosing a floor heating system, it is important to take into account the purpose of the room in which it will be installed. For a kitchen or hallway, models with a capacity of approximately 110-130 W per square meter are suitable. m. For a private house, especially for its first floor, more powerful models are suitable - about 40 watts per square meter. m. For a bathroom, it is better to choose 150 W models as a heating source. square meter... On the balcony, you need to choose even more powerful warm floors - 180 W per sq. m and above. Thus, electricity consumption depends on which room you install underfloor heating.

The coatings also differ in energy consumption, depending on the type of their structures. Under equal conditions, cable underfloor heating requires a power of 120 W per sq. m, and matte - 160 W per sq. m, so the first is more profitable.

If such a heating system is installed in humid rooms, you will see an even greater difference between these indicators. The most economical is the carbon floor, but this only applies to those cases when it is used as an additional source of heating. This is due to the fact that it has a self-regulation system that does not allow overconsumption of electricity.

Views

There are two main types of heating the room and floor:

Convection warm floor. They may be:

conventional cable;
in the form of mats.

Infrared warm floor. They are:

film;
rod (carbon) mats.

As for convection floors, they have a constant heating cable. It is laid in a zigzag manner or in the form of a spiral under a cement screed. Moreover, a distance of about 10 cm is left between each turn of the cable. There are resistive and self-regulating convection floors.

Self-adjusting models have a rather complex structure. They can independently determine where exactly in the underfloor heating system overheating occurs, automatically lower the power supply and turn off the power in this area.

A simpler device has conventional heating cable. These systems are easier to install. They are presented in the form of the following options:

single resistive;
two-core.

Such floors create electromagnetic radiation, and the two-core version makes it much weaker. The installation of the cable floor is rather complicated, since the cables must not intersect with each other and must maintain an equal distance between them. In addition, all transitions must be smooth, no kinks are allowed. Floor coverings can be installed on them only 3 days after installing the warm floor.

More convenient option are mini mats with cable included... They are ready-made and laid out in the desired form a cable attached to thin mats, which is a fiberglass mesh that resembles a thin carpet. Such a cable is ideally located and does not form kinks. That is why such a system is easy to install with your own hands.

The mat is rolled onto the finished cement screed under the floor covering. It should be especially noted that these mats are very thin. Their thickness does not exceed 4-5 mm, so they are not bulky and do not hide the size of the room. Manufacturers present models in rolls different width from 50 cm to a meter and even more. Moreover, the mats have special basis which can be glued by pressing down, you do not have to use any adhesives.

When laying to a cable warm floor connect a thermostat, temperature sensors and a device for automatic shutdown systems. However, some problems can arise when laying these mats. So, in some places, the mesh still has to be cut and carefully laid the cable so that you can put the second sheet without interrupting it. It is important not to damage the cable and place it at a safe distance of about 5 cm.

The next large group of warm floors is infrared electric floors. They only heat the flooring, not the air. That is why they maintain the required level of air humidity and uniform heating of floor coverings without harming it. This effect is achieved through infrared radiation. But in this regard, a number of buyers are wondering whether such radiation is safe. Many experts claim that it is completely safe for human health, even useful - infrared radiation is used even in medicine.

In addition, experts point out that infrared warm floors ionize the air and make it even more useful. In addition, they do not cause an allergic reaction, as the manufacturers assure.

As for the film models, they are thin insulating polyester films of small thickness. They are almost invisible. They are only about 1 mm thick. The infrared underfloor heating film includes two main layers, between which there is a heating element in the form of a carbon paste applied in stripes. But there are also better and more expensive models in which the paste is applied in a continuous layer.

Carbon paste conducts heat well and therefore quickly converts electricity into infrared waves. Copper conductors are located along the edges of the film, which allow the electric current to be evenly distributed over the heating elements. The bottom layer is a reflective heating underlay that allows heat to be directed upward to heat the floor rather than the ceiling of the neighbors below.

From above, such a floor is covered with polyethylene, which allows for a greenhouse effect. Thanks to this, the heat is distributed as evenly as possible. This thin underfloor heating option is perfect for thick floor coverings such as laminate or planks. But when such a system is installed under thinner coatings, for example, under linoleum, then manufacturers recommend additionally installing a plywood layer.

The infrared floor has next principle work: electricity comes from the thermostat through wires that are connected with special terminals with sheets. An important and difficult task will be the correct docking of contacts, which will allow you to achieve ideal heating of the floors. Contacts at the edges of the infrared film are tightly clamped and brought in with the right side.

If during installation you pinch this wire or unfold it incorrectly, then the system will quickly burn out and will last no more than a year. That is why, when installing such a floor, it is better to contact an electrician or follow his instructions.

Infrared underfloor heating is the most versatile of all options for electric and underfloor heating. It is perfect for installation under any floor covering, from natural parquet to warm fleecy carpet, you can put any rugs on it.

In thickness, an infrared warm floor is the thinnest in comparison with other types of floors. The huge advantage of this type is that no concrete screed is required when installing such a floor. It can be easily laid out under the flooring material. In addition, it is now envisaged to install an infrared warm floor even on walls and ceilings. That is, this option can even replace the main heating.

Separately, the flexibility of such a system is noted, which opens up wider possibilities for planning and interior design of the premises. Film infrared floors can be installed independently, especially since manufacturers present models with special markings. It is in this place that the coating can be cut for its further joining.

But given view underfloor heating also has some negative qualities. So, when installing it in concrete, you have to wait a long time, sometimes this period reaches a month, since it is necessary to wait for the completion of all chemical processes occurring in the screed.

Infrared floors are not very high fever heating. This is because they are designed to be installed under natural surfaces such as wood. That is why they do not overheat above 28 degrees. When overheated, many coatings can deteriorate or deform.

In addition, the peculiarity of installing such warm floors is that they require a smooth and even surface. This is due to the small thickness infrared systems heating.

Rod carbon the floors are no less interesting construction. Their bases are made of carbon fiber, which has high level heat transfer. It converts electricity into infrared heat. The rods are connected in parallel to each other. Moreover, this is one of the most reliable systems underfloor heating, because if one of the rods is damaged, the rest will not be affected.

A carbon rod floor is said to be the most durable and can last for over 50 years. The big advantage of this type is the self-regulation system of the rods, thanks to which perfect temperature control can be achieved. The system itself increases the heating temperature in those parts of the room where there may be drafts, for example, at the entrance, or, on the contrary, reduces the power near the radiators and other sources of the main heating.

You can easily put any pieces of furniture on such systems without worrying that they will be damaged over time. There is also a reflective material underneath that allows heat to be directed upward. They can fill almost the entire area of the room.

Some refer to electric heating systems as water models that work using an electric boiler. Boilers are often installed directly on the heating system piping.

Which to choose?

When choosing a warm floor, it is necessary to take into account its characteristics, since different floor coverings are suitable only for a certain type of such systems. So, the laminate has low thermal conductivity, but it heats up quickly. A film is often installed under it, but at the same time a lot of electricity is spent on such heating, since the floor will need to be kept on at all times so that it does not cool down.

As for the tiles, they take longer to heat up, but at the same time they keep heat well after turning off the heating system. Therefore, a warm film system is perfect for her, which can first warm up this coating, and then turn it off, significantly saving energy costs. But laying any underfloor heating under ceramic tiles is rather difficult, since if it further cracks, then the heating system can also be damaged. It is better to put a fiberglass reinforcing mesh under it.

For new premises, a warm cable electrical system is more suitable, since, as a rule, only a rough finish is made in them before moving in, and therefore you can install the base yourself and significantly save money, for example, on buying mats. Thus, you can independently make a cement screed, but at the same time it will hide a few centimeters from the height of the room. But it will better retain heat and distribute it evenly over the surface. This will allow the floor to release heat more slowly.

The characteristics and method of installation of a warm electric floor is only suitable for a certain coverage. So, the cable system is mounted in a wet cement screed and is perfect for ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware, natural stone and laminate. It can also be installed under linoleum, wood and textile floor coverings.

Cable with thermal insulation plates fits under a dry screed. The choice in favor of such warm system should be done in case you want to lay ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware, natural stone, laminate or wood. Linoleum is an acceptable, but not ideal option.

As for the film floor, the carbon models are perfect for laminate and parquet, it is also permissible to install an electric slat floor under carpet and linoleum. They are mounted on a dry screed. The foil floor in the form of mats is placed under the tile adhesive. This system is ideal for installing ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware and mineral stone. Acceptable for it is laminate, linoleum and textile coatings, and in some cases, wooden coatings.

The core film floor is laid on a wet cement screed. You can choose it if you want to make your flooring from porcelain stoneware, ceramic tiles, natural stone or laminate.

For different rooms

Rooms of different purpose require installation different types underfloor heating. It is necessary to calculate the heat output required for each specific room. In this case, it is better to purchase models with a power reserve. It is necessary to take into account the height of the ceilings. If in the room they are higher than 3 m, then heating elements with a power of more than 150 W per square meter should be selected. m.

For the most ordinary rooms, for example, for living rooms, if you will install a screed on the floor, it is better to select a cable or rod electric underfloor heating. For bathrooms, it is better to select models with a higher heating power. Moreover, most often, a floor covering in the form of porcelain stoneware is installed in the bathroom, so a core heating system is most suitable for it. Cable underfloor heating is also acceptable. If you do not plan to install a concrete screed in the room, then the floors can be matched to laminate, linoleum or carpet, which are most often used in the bedroom or nursery. For such rooms, a film heating system is most suitable.

Calculation and installation

Before installing an underfloor heating system, it is necessary to calculate the area and power of the floor system. First of all, you need to decide on required power heating, depending on what role you assign to the warm floor. If it is necessary to ensure comfort and walking barefoot, then a floor with a power of 150 W per 1 sq. m, but if this is not an additional, but the main heating system, then you need to select models with a capacity of about 200-220 W per sq. m. Depending on the purpose of the premises, the calculation will also differ.

In the bedroom, you need to make heating about 180 W per sq. m, and in the bathroom - at least 200 watts. The heating rate for the living room is 150 W per m2, but if it has at least two external walls, then select underfloor heating options with high rates.

When calculating it is important to consider where you install such a warm floor. If below you in panel house there is another apartment, then the minimum permissible indicators will be enough, but if there is a cellar, basement or other unheated room or ground below, then you need to select models with powerful heating. The floor installed on the balcony or on the veranda should have even more power, especially if these rooms are not heated.

The power of the electric floor is also calculated from the area of the heated room. But the calculation should be made by subtracting from the total area of the room those areas where the furniture will be located. That is why, before installing underfloor heating, it is necessary to make a layout and calculate where the furniture will stand and subtract this area from the total. It is also better to retreat a few centimeters from all walls, and this should be taken into account when calculating the area.

After that, it is necessary to calculate the total power for floor heating in all rooms. It is necessary to multiply the resulting area by the power required for a given location. But with such calculations, the numbers will turn out to be very impressive, do not be alarmed, this does not mean at all that you will spend exactly that much electricity. You will periodically turn off underfloor heating, especially for self-regulating models, which, by automatically turning off, allow you to save energy.

If the main heating system works well in the room and thermostats are installed together with the warm floor, then the floor will consume about a third of the power you calculated earlier. That is why, when installing a warm floor at home, it is important to pay great attention to thermal insulation, which will subsequently save energy consumption.

Underfloor heating installation differs depending on some features. So, for some systems, you must first carry out the installation of the screed and install them there "raw", and place the floor coverings on top. This installation option is suitable for cable underfloor heating, which have an additional layer of waterproofing and insulation.

The next option- installation of the electric floor over the screed. In this way, the floors are prepared for the further laying of porcelain stoneware. This is an excellent installation option for apartments located on the second floor and above. The most simple option installation of an electric underfloor heating is the installation of the system directly under the covering. This method is only suitable for foil electric floors. This is the fastest and easiest option and saves time and frees you from capital construction work. concrete screed... This method is suitable for laying under linoleum or laminate flooring. On the existing screed, a layer of polyethylene foam is covered, and then it is covered with foil. You can also install a layer of waterproofing on it, and only then install foil electric floors. All these methods have their own specifics and peculiarities.

But before you spend assembly work, it is necessary to clearly draw up a plan for the arrangement of furniture in the room, plan where the heating elements and controls will be located. When installing, try to move away from sources of main heating, such as radiators, fireplaces, radiators. It is important to correctly determine the installation method and carry out everything necessary calculations before proceeding with the direct installation of the underfloor heating system.

First you need to choose a location for the thermostat. Better to place it closer to the wall outlet. The thermostat can be overhead. Its installation is very simple, but at the same time it will be clearly visible. The installation of a mortise thermostat is more complicated and reliable. It is built into a special mounting box in order to hide it from prying eyes. This way you can hide it from pets and small children who might accidentally press the button.

For the mortise model of the thermostat, special holes are made in the wall and, first of all, the box is mounted where it will be placed. There you need to bring the power supply and insulate the ends. After that, you need to lay a strobe down to the floor and place wires there for further installation of the electric floor. The temperature sensors are guided by means of a corrugated pipe. The strobe must be placed not only on the wall, but also on the floor, at least 50 cm in length from the wall. The sensor is located in this place, and the corrugated pipe allows it to be secured and simplifies the process of its subsequent replacement. A sensor is installed in this place, fixed to the wire through the junction box. The edge of the corrugated pipe must be closed with a foam plug or sealed with electrical tape so that the solution does not get there during installation.

The installation of the sensor is complete. After that, you need to connect the wires to the terminals on the thermostat according to the instructions on the back of the thermostat. Then you can move on to connecting electric floor heaters - cables. They connect to the terminals on the back of the thermostat. After that, you should connect the wires responsible for the power. This part of the work should be done by a knowledgeable electrician, since this way you can avoid mistakes and protect yourself.

At the end of all these works, it is necessary to check the system for operability and stability and turn it on for a certain period of time. After that, you can pour the screed, lay the tiles, or even immediately lay the laminate or parquet board in case you are using foil underfloor heating.

How to ground?

Grounding an electric floor is an important process as every electrical appliance presents some kind of hazard that must be disposed of. In addition, water can often spill on the floor, so electric underfloor heating must be grounded. This is especially true for wet rooms, such as a loggia, bathroom, kitchen. To do this, it is necessary to select heating elements that will be enclosed in a high-quality protective shell. In addition, an additional ground connection must be made to protect the electrical coating.

It is better to carry out this procedure in all rooms, since not all heating elements have a protective metal sheath. So, for grounding, a metal mesh is laid on top of the heating elements on the electric floor. It must be connected with wires and connected to a special protective bus. Such a mesh, in addition to the protection function, will additionally make the floor more rigid and reliable, especially since the electrical systems have a small thickness. The metal mesh also allows you to evenly distribute the load on the floor covering.

When installing underfloor heating in a private house, additional contours must be made. It is necessary to install grounding with a depth of 1.5 - 2 m. Between them there should be jumpers at an equal distance of about 1 m. This way you can protect yourself and your household from an accident and make heating the house safer.

Control

Electric floors can be controlled using a special device called a thermostat. It conditions the connection of the system to the electricity network. With it, you can control the temperature of the floor itself and the air in the room.

Internal sensors play the main role in control. They are installed in the screed or, in its absence, under the very top cover in the process of laying. Other sensors measure the room temperature. They are not installed on the floor, but most often on the wall.

Manufacturers offer different electric floor control panels and simplify the complex process of interacting with this system. So, the simplest is electronic-mechanical regulator, which assumes only the regulation of the heating temperature and has a button to turn off the electric floor. You can add and decrease the temperature by hand using a rotating wheel. Such a thermostat greatly simplifies control, any person can handle it. In addition, there are far fewer cases of failure of such a system.

Digital thermostat presupposes a more complex and total control of this system. It is a panel with buttons or touch controls. Additionally, it has a special control unit with electrical sensors, which collects all the necessary information about the air and floor temperature and transmits it to the thermostat.

The following kind of controls are - programmable heat controller... It is the newest among such systems. It allows not only to set different temperature conditions for all rooms, but also to change the temperature of different areas within the same room. They can be controlled not only manually, but also remotely using a smartphone, leaving home. This way you can control the heating even when leaving the house.

All of these electric floor control panels can fit into different interiors, and some of them are more, and some less noticeable, everything will depend only on your decision.

Among the control systems, there are also simple thermostats, which allow you to constantly maintain a predetermined temperature in the premises. When the values you set are decreased or increased, it turns on or off the electricity, thus independently maintaining the desired temperature in the room.

Some models of thermostats involve the installation of one of the programs that can take into account the time of day, as well as whether it is a weekend or a working day. Such smart systems controls can turn on the heating at the right time before the owners return home and turn it off when no one is at home. But the modes are easy to configure and manually if you have changed plans. Thus, control systems for underfloor heating are interesting and diverse. They make it easier and more convenient to use.

Choosing a system for organizing the main or additional heating home owners ask themselves the question: "How to choose warm electric floors?" Find out the answer to it will help simple tips and detailed reviews of manufacturers.

Floor heating systems are gaining in popularity. From an auxiliary solution for increasing the comfort of apartments, they have turned into a full-fledged source of heating for suburban real estate. Heating elements are modernized and improved every year. Manufacturers offer customers more and more various powerful heating solutions, which are more and more difficult to navigate. How to choose the optimal heating structure for your needs?

Benefits of electric underfloor heating

Design versatility. Possibility of using in residential and non-residential buildings as both auxiliary and main heating source.
Do not spoil. Everything structural elements hidden from prying eyes, do not violate the integrity and aesthetics of the interior.
Temperature control accuracy. With a thermostat, you can regulate the room temperature with an accuracy of 0.1 degrees.
Ease of installation. Some types of systems can be installed independently without the help of specialists.
Durability. Subject to the rules of operation, electrical heating systems will last for more than a decade.

Electric underfloor heating: a system that stands out for its durability

Uniform heating. The heat on the surface is evenly distributed, which allows you to fully warm up the room.
Possibility of partial renovation. In the event of a floor heating failure, only the damaged area can be replaced without affecting the integrity of other structural elements.
Absence additional equipment... Unlike a water floor, which requires a boiler to be installed, an electric floor does not require any auxiliary devices.
Application safety. The temperature of the heating element does not exceed comfortable and safe limits for humans, which excludes the possibility of burns.

Types of electric floors depending on the type of heating element

According to the type of heating element used, the following types of electrical floor systems are distinguished:

Film. The basic heating element is the film layer. Installation of such a structure requires a minimum of effort - the film fits under any modern floor covering, no cement screed is required. Suitable for use under laminate, parquet, linoleum. It is only important to observe the temperature regime recommended by the manufacturer for each finishing material. There are 2 popular floor heating options:

Carbon film. Lavsan film with a mesh made of resistive material between its two layers. It is produced in ready-made rolls, which can be cut into suitable webs. They emit heat, mainly consisting of infrared waves. Such heaters warm the room and have a beneficial effect on the entire human body, making it healthy. The disadvantages of the system are its high cost and the likelihood of overheating in areas with installed furniture and technology.
Bimetallic heaters. 2-layer construction - aluminum alloy and copper alloy. They also emit infrared waves and are produced in rolls divided into small sections. Suitable for the arrangement of floating floors, not mounted in a layer of tile mixture or cement.

Heating mats. The heating mat is a thin cable laid with a snake on a nylon mesh. Finished goods are equipped with a thermostat and are completely ready for installation. The blade is easily cut into pieces suitable sizes, which allows the system to be used in rooms of any shape and area. It is possible to organize a warm floor from mats at any stage of construction, even when the floor level has already been removed, the heating elements are very thin and do not require a layer of cement.

Installation diagram of underfloor heating mats: even a beginner can handle the installation

It is extremely simple to mount the structure - even an inexperienced specialist can cope with the task. The mat can be laid directly under the laminate "on dry" or under the tiles, after applying a thin layer of special glue to it. The disadvantages of the systems include their rather high cost and the possibility of using them exclusively as an additional, not the main, source of heating.

Cable. The design is based on a single or two-core cable. It fits like a snake on a metal base mounting structure and covered with a layer of cement screed. Differs in a lower cost compared to heating mats. The cable is laid with different pitches, ensuring that a certain temperature is maintained even in cold rooms.

Arrangement of the system from the cable standard thickness requires an obligatory layer of screed, at least 3 cm, so such floors take longer to warm up. Thin cable does not require the arrangement of a cement layer, combines the advantages of heating mats and cable systems. A professional and careful approach to installation is required.

Advice. By choosing suitable system taking into account the cost criterion, calculate not only the price of the floor itself, but also the costs of its installation and pouring the building screed (if the design requires it).

Underfloor heating cable construction: a solution with many advantages, but demanding installation

How to choose the right warm electric floor

To determine which floor heating system is suitable for your home, evaluate the following selection criteria:

Energy consumption. Each of the types of electric floor elements converts electrical energy into thermal energy with a very high efficiency, almost one to one. However, despite the efficiency declared by the manufacturer, the degree of insulation of your premises should also be taken into account. In houses with thin cold walls, heat loss will be significant, so energy consumption increases in proportion to the number of on / off cycles. In this case, it is worth choosing the most expensive and powerful systems that will pay for themselves during operation.
Appointment. For standard rooms of insulated buildings with a screed, cable floors are suitable, for bathrooms it is preferable to use rod heating systems. In rooms where the screed is not planned to be poured, it is advisable to install film floors.
Reliability and durability. The most durable are cable systems, leading manufacturers guarantee up to 20 years of uninterrupted operation. Rebar and film floors are not yet sufficiently tested, as they are relatively new products on the construction market.
Price. You should not choose the cheapest solution, because you are buying a system for many years. In the event of its failure, you will have to break the integrity of the floor covering, spend money on Construction Materials and replacement of failed heating elements. It is better to immediately trust trusted manufacturers. Floors of the brands REHAU, DEVI, CALEO, UNIMAT and affordable solutions from Teplolux are popular.

The choice of underfloor heating should be based on the type of room, manufacturer and power consumption of the device.

The above were the main important nuances that you should pay attention to when buying a warm floor. Of course, there are individual cases, however, more often than not, the listed characteristics are enough for the corresponding coverage to serve for many years.

Advice. By purchasing systems from trusted manufacturers, you receive not only a quality guarantee, but also the opportunity to take advantage of service repairs and maintenance.

Modern floor systems heating can completely replace the usual risers and batteries. Over time, more and more powerful and easy-to-install structures appear that change the usual ideas about the organization of heating in an apartment and a house.

Video: How to choose an electric warm floor

Warm floor is no longer a luxury. Modern technologies offer the layman various options for underfloor heating, for every taste and every wallet. Installation of underfloor heating is simple and it is quite possible to do it yourself, while significantly saving on workers. The only drawback of an electric floor is the high cost of electricity billing services.

If the decision to install the electric floor has been made, then all that remains is to choose the appropriate option. In this article, we will look at how to choose an electric underfloor heating under the laminate and under the tiles.

Why electric floor?

The electric floor heating system can be installed in different rooms: in an apartment, country house or a cottage.
There is no need to install pipes and connect them to central heating pipes.
Installation of an electric floor is simple and quite feasible on our own. It is enough to lay the cable according to a certain scheme and connect it to the electrical network.
You can easily maintain the desired floor temperature using various control systems.
It is possible to set up an automatic switch-on timer system, for example, in a garage. Then, by the time of departure, the room will be warmed up, which will greatly facilitate starting the car engine.
The installation of an electric heating system does not require any permits, thus saving time on going through the authorities and standing in queues.
There is a possibility of choosing an electric floor heating system, depending on material capabilities.
Electric floor ideal for heating small spaces: balcony, loggia, bathroom.

Comfort and convenience of electric floor heating

the floor temperature is maintained within 25 ° C, which provides additional comfort in the bathroom or on the balcony;
if the dwelling is small (30–40 m 2), then it is possible to heat the whole room with only one type of heating;
professional installation and connection of the electric floor cable practically excludes breakdowns;
in the event of a malfunction, the electric floor heating system is easily dismantled and the breakdown is repaired.

The cable routing should not go under those places where interior items (wardrobes, sofas or beds), heavy household appliances and plumbing fixtures are located. All heavy interior items must be at least 20 cm away from the cable routing. It is advisable to make a laying scheme so that in the event of repair or rearrangement of furniture, the entire heating system is not damaged.

Today, the building materials market offers a huge selection different options electric floor heating. What kind of warm floor to choose so that it fits under tiles, laminate or linoleum. In addition, it was economically beneficial and had low levels of electromagnetic radiation.

Varieties of electric underfloor heating

Heating mats

Heating mats are a special fiberglass construction with a cable inside. This type of heating is perfect for tiles. The mats are laid in a layer of glue, on which the tiles are then attached.

Advantages:

ease of installation and connection;
screed floors do not need to be done;
commissioning in a short time (a few days after installation);
very quickly warm up the tile.

Disadvantages:

impossibility of regulating the heating range;
high material costs.

Film infrared floor

The heating element in such a system is thin film... Most often, this type of underfloor heating is used under a laminate.

Advantages:

the film can be laid under any topcoat (the exception is tiles);
energy savings from 20 to 30%;
the film can be installed not only on the floor, but also on the walls or ceiling of the room.

Disadvantages:

knowledge and experience are needed to connect and install the system, therefore it is necessary to use the services of specialists;
the base on which the film is mounted must be perfectly flat, otherwise the service life of the system will be reduced by several years;
heavy pieces of furniture must not be installed, as the film will overheat and fail;

Heating cable system

Cable electrical system heating is a cable with high electrical resistance in Teflon insulation. Such a heating system is laid in sand-cement screed... There are two types of cables: single-core and two-core. Experts recommend using a two-wire cable. It is more reliable and emits the least amount of electromagnetic radiation.

Advantages:

high degree of stability and safety;
high-quality heating, which can be used as the main one.

Disadvantages:

be sure to make a concrete screed;
the screed reduces the height of the room;
to lay the cable and connect the heating system, qualifications and work experience are required, therefore it is impossible to carry out the installation on your own;
operation of the underfloor heating system is possible no earlier than 1‒1.5 months after the concrete has hardened.

Before choosing a floor heating system, you need to remember a few nuances:

heating mats and infrared film heating can be used as additional heating to create more comfortable living conditions;
the cable system is ideal as the main heating system for rooms of any size.

Video

Which electric underfloor heating is better? The purpose of the main types of electric floor heating: