Repair of old plaster of internal walls. Repairing old plaster How to cover up loose plaster from a wall

Wall plaster repair is an operation that is necessary when in some places it begins to crack and move away from the masonry. Most often, cracks and chips appear near window frames and doorways, but sometimes defects appear in other places.

If the cracks are clearly visible on the surface of the plastered walls, then the delamination is not easy to notice. Swelling appears in certain areas, and when tapped, the plaster layer collapses and falls. The reasons are varied, but the most common is improper surface preparation before applying the plaster mix.

Preparatory work

The swollen layer must be removed

Repair of old plaster does not require complete removal of the previous layer. It is carried out in small areas where damage or detachment is found.

If the area of ​​the wall section to be repaired exceeds the length of the rule, then construction beacons must be installed.

In cases where the area of ​​the damaged surface is rather small, the edges of the previous coating act as beacons.

Before proceeding with the restoration of the surface, it is necessary to identify all existing defects.

To do this, in the process of preparation, all detected cracks are embroidered using a spatula, and all suspicious places must be tapped with its handle.

Where the sound is dull or the swelling of the old one is noticeable, the damaged layer is beaten off with a hammer, removed with a spatula, exposing the masonry.

When repairing old plaster in large areas, reinforcement is required using a chain-link mesh for this purpose, which is attached to the wall using self-tapping screws or special fungi.

Reinforcement

The solution must penetrate under the mesh

Rub the surface with a wooden or plastic grater in a circular motion, after wetting the tool with water.

Plaster is a versatile wall covering. It can be both an exquisite and decorative part of the interior, as well as an ordinary plain background or a draft version of surface preparation for any finishing material. The plaster is quite resistant to moisture and perfectly tolerates various adverse effects, from temperature extremes to scratches from animal claws. However, even this fairly durable material is prone to destruction. You will learn how to correctly repair the plaster of internal walls in this article.

There are many reasons why plaster collapses and loses its aesthetic and functional properties. Most of them are easy to prevent during plastering work, but some cases cannot be foreseen.

Reasons to avoid:

• poor-quality preparation of the base for applying plaster;
• unremoved remnants of the previous coating;
• incorrect selection of mortar for the internal or external surface.

Reasons that cannot be influenced:

1. Cracks that appeared in places of increased load on the surface:

• window frames;
• doorways.

2. Defects in the plaster due to long-term use.

3. Destruction of plaster due to natural disasters, such as earthquakes.

Important! Plaster, like any other material, loses its properties over time, however, any cracks and defects can be repaired with your own hands. The price of plastering internal walls in this case will be significantly lower than when these works are performed by professional builders. We note one more fact that the internal plastering of aerated concrete walls is as easy as finishing brick or monolithic concrete bases. Therefore, the main rule is to follow the sequence of actions and all the conditions of the damage repair technology.

How to check the strength of the coating?

Be sure to check the entire plastered surface before starting to repair a visible damage zone. The check is done in order to prevent the imminent destruction of new sites. To do this, it is easy enough to tap it with a rubber or wooden mallet.

Important! A durable coating makes a ringing sound, and a non-durable one gives a dull tone.

What to choose a solution for repairing damage?

It is mandatory to repair the plaster with the same mortar that the plaster was originally made with.

Important! Do not make a typical mistake by acquiring and making a composition that is more durable, in your opinion, which is not always combined with the previous coating. The price of plastering internal walls in this case depends entirely on the quality of the initial mixture for the solution, so give preference to trusted manufacturers, but with an affordable cost of materials.

The texture, color and aesthetic appearance of the surface directly depends on which mixture you will use.

Important! If the destruction is significant and caused precisely by the fact that the mortar was initially of inadequate quality, in this case it is advisable to completely replace the plaster, and not to reinforce individual fragments of the wall with a different composition. Otherwise, repair work on the plaster of the internal walls will have to be carried out regularly.

How to properly prepare the walls when repairing plaster?

To save time and money, many prefer to repair only noticeable irregularities and damage, not paying attention to the fact that plaster can also be kept on parole in other places. It looks presentable, but in practice it is fraught with constant re-restoration of the surface.

To avoid this result, before starting minor repairs, do the following:

Interior wall plaster repair technology

Regardless of the type of material in need of repair, the technology of work is the same:

Video

View the proposed example of a video of plastering interior walls to clearly see the whole process and organize yourself correctly when carrying out repair work.

Features of repairing gypsum plaster

Repair of gypsum plaster is carried out in accordance with the basic rules for sealing cracks on the surface, but there are some distinctive nuances. After checking the wall on which cracks are found, proceed to repair the damage by following the suggested method below.

Instruments

For do-it-yourself repairs, you will need the following tools:

Surface preparation

This procedure is not much different from the standard preparation process:

Repair Technology

Features of repairing cement-sand plaster

This type of plaster is no more complicated than gypsum, the general algorithm for their implementation is very similar, but the method of applying the mixture and preparing the base also includes distinctive features.

Instruments

For this type of wall repair, the following materials and tools are needed:

Technology

To obtain a high-quality plaster coating from a cement-sand mortar, do the work as follows:

Conclusion

When repairing plaster, it is important to be extremely careful and organized. Compliance with all the rules will ensure high-quality and long service life of the new surface. In the case when the surface of your home is significantly destroyed, do not be too lazy to completely replace the plaster, because it is better to do it well once than to redo the work in parts over and over again.

The beauty and neatness of any interior depends on many aspects, and walls play an important role in the design of the room. It is known that over time, their appearance may suffer under the influence of various factors. In this article, we will look at what to do if the plaster has come off the walls, as well as the reasons for this phenomenon.

All possible damage to the plaster can be divided into 2 types: technological and operational. Below we will take a closer look at each of the categories.

Technological disadvantages

They can occur due to a violation of the technology for preparing the solution, as well as as a result of improper coating on the wall. These defects include the following:

1. Bloating. One of the reasons that your plaster falls off can be considered the wrong composition of the solution. If you use unseasoned lime, which contains unslaked particles, to prepare the mixture, it can cause small, swollen bumps to form on the walls. Over time, these voids lead to damage to the coating. In order to get rid of such a problem, the blistering area must be cleaned of plaster and reapplied with a better mixture.
2. Cracks. This phenomenon occurs if you use insufficiently mixed or greasy solutions. Fatty formulations are those that include a lot of astringents. The appearance of cracks is also facilitated by too rapid drying of the surface of the walls. To avoid the occurrence of such defects, you need to carefully monitor the ratio of all components in the prepared plaster, and in addition, mix the mass very carefully before using it. If you are working on walls in hot weather, you should keep them from drying out too quickly. To do this, the surface must be periodically moistened. In the event that cracks nevertheless appear, they can be eliminated by rubbing the wall with mortar or gypsum dough. Very large gaps must be widened, cleaned, wetted and sealed with plaster.
3. It happens that the plaster moves away from the wall as a result of peeling. This problem can occur for two reasons: if the mortar is applied to a wall that is too dry or to another mortar that has less strength. To get rid of such a defect, the area with a peeled coating must be cleaned, wetted well and re-coated with the composition. Remember that before starting such work, it is necessary to carefully inspect the entire wall and determine in which other places the coating is peeling off. During the preparation of the mass and its application to the wall, it is important to remember that the strength of the composition must change in descending order. That is, the first layer of the solution should be stronger than the subsequent ones.
4. Bloating. Unlike flaking, this problem occurs when plaster is applied to an excessively wet surface. To eliminate this defect, the affected area will have to be cleaned, the wall dried and covered again with a solution.

Operational Defects

Another reason why plaster falls off is the damage that occurs due to the aging of the coating. Such defects include all the same cracks and flaking, only they do not appear immediately, but after a long time. In order to prevent the appearance of flaws or to eliminate them in time, it is necessary to regularly inspect the coating and make repairs if necessary.

Plaster repair

So, your plaster has fallen off, what to do in this case? The main way to deal with such a problem is to carry out repairs, which begin with the removal of the old coating layer. In order to carry out such work, you will have to acquire a suitable sharp tool with which you can scrape off the old mortar from the walls. Remember that when clearing a particular area, you will also need to capture a small area around it. Let's look at the process of eliminating plaster defects in the form of a sequence of actions:

1. To begin with, the damaged area must be cleaned of old plaster. This can be done by tapping, as a result of which the lagging coating will simply crumble from the wall.
2. From all the seams of the opened masonry, it is necessary to scrape the solution to a depth of at least 1.5 cm. After that, the treated area is swept from dust and moistened with water.
3. Then you should prepare a liquid cement mixture and cover the wall with it.
4. When the soil layer hardens, you need to make a lime mortar. If you want your wall to dry faster, add a little gypsum dough to the resulting composition in the following proportion: for 6 parts of the solution, 1 part of the gypsum dough.
5. Cover the surface to be treated with the resulting composition and rub with a trowel. Treat the borders of the old and new coatings with adhesive paint and rub them in the same way.
6. All joints must be carefully smoothed - so you protect the wall from the appearance of depressions or bumps on it.
7. At the end of the work done, walk with a damp brush or sponge over the entire treated area.

Repair of corners is carried out as follows:

1. First prepare the gypsum mixture.
2. They clean the corner of the old plaster, scrape the seams and moisten the surface with water.
3. Then cover one side of the corner with a fresh solution and wait until the composition hardens.
4. After that, a wet board is applied to the surface, which should lie close to the old coating layer.
5. The next step is to moisten the second side of the corner and plaster in the same way.
6. The boundaries between the old and new solutions are overwritten.

Restoration of Venetian plaster

The process of repairing this type of coating will require a little more time and effort. This work consists of several stages:

1. First of all, the damaged layer of plaster is removed from the wall and the surface is cleaned.
2. After that, a solution of PVA glue is prepared. To 1 part of glue add 5 parts of water and mix the mass well until smooth.
3. The wall to be treated is covered with the resulting mixture, capturing areas around the damaged area.
4. Then apply the base layer of plaster and wait for it to dry.
5. After that, the surface area is covered with a finishing layer of plaster, which performs a decorative function.
6. The next step is to give the decorative coating the same texture as the rest of the wall. To do this, use sponges and special spatulas. The work should be carried out in such a way that there are no visible boundaries between the old and new cladding.
7. After a few days, when the restored area is completely dry, it can be painted in the desired color.

Grinding plaster

In order for your plaster to last as long as possible without repair, it must be updated periodically. Any plastered surface begins to become covered with small cracks over time. Before things go too far, you can grind the top layer of the coating. This process is carried out as follows:

1. Remove old wallpaper from the wall. If the paper adheres too strongly to the surface, it is soaked and scraped off with a suitable tool. The rest of the paste or wallpaper paste is also washed off with warm water.
2. They do the same with paint, scraping it off the wall with a spatula. You need to work with the tool carefully, trying not to leave deep scratches on the coating, otherwise they will later have to be covered with putty. If the paint is water-soluble, it can simply be washed off.
3. The grinding process is carried out in zones. An area of ​​​​approximately 0.5 m² is allocated on the wall and moistened a little.
4. Then, using a special grater, the surface is covered with a thin layer of plaster. The distance between individual strokes should be about 10 cm.
5. After that, the treated area is carefully overwritten with circular movements of the tool.
6. If small defects remain on the wall, they are again covered with a small amount of mortar.

Crack repair

If there are quite noticeable cracks on the surface of the wall, they are covered separately. To do this, the gaps are slightly deepened and the crumbling edges are cut off. After that, the defects are sealed with plaster. When it dries, the wall is rubbed.

If cracks form at the joints of reinforced concrete floors, they are covered with a solution based on fine sand. After that, the surface is carefully leveled and rubbed.

The process of applying plaster on the wall can be seen in the following video:

But due to certain factors, such as dampness or an initially incorrect composition, it can fall off in places, crumble, crack, swell, move away from the surface.

In this case, the removal of old plaster is simply necessary.

Depending on the lesion, the removal of plaster can be:

• partial
• complete

To determine the strength of the old plaster and how well it adheres to the walls, you need to examine the entire area and then decide on its complete and partial replacement.

If cement or lime plaster begins to crumble along with the removal of paint from it, then it is impossible to “cure” it, in which case it must be completely removed.

The strength test is carried out with a scraper or spatula. If the plaster crumbles only in individual places, then you can cover it with a solution on fine-grained sand or putty weak areas, having previously cleaned them with sandpaper and primed them.

To determine how strong the plaster of slopes, walls or ceilings is, you need to tap the entire surface with a wooden mallet, hammer or spatula handle.

In places where the plaster is weak, a void has formed under it, so a dull sound will be heard. In these places, the old plaster must be removed.

Tapping the wall with a hammer

If dampness has appeared in certain places (from below, from above) and weakened the plaster, then the old plaster must be removed not only in these places, but also by 50 cm more than the level of moisture.

Cracks in old, but durable plaster are sealed with cement mortar and carefully rubbed. In this case, the cracks are pre-expanded to a V-shape and moistened with water.

The solution is applied in several stages: first to the very bottom of the recess, then after drying by 2/3, and only then they begin to completely seal the crack.

If there are grease stains on the old plaster, washing the surface alone will not be enough. It is necessary to prepare the walls for plastering as follows - cut down the oiled places, after which they are repaired with a new layer of plaster.

Removal of old plaster can be done in different ways, the tool depends on how firmly it adheres to the base.

Tools for removing old plaster:

• putty knife
• scraper
• axe
• hammer
• scapula
• perforator
• Bulgarian
• plaster remover

Precautionary measures

1. Use a respirator or gauze bandage to prevent dust from entering the lungs;
2. Wear safety goggles and gloves;
3. Before starting work, determine the location of the electrical wiring, if necessary, turn off the power supply.

Methods for removing old plaster

First, you can use a hammer and tap the entire work surface with a sharp protrusion of the head. Weak patches of plaster will immediately crack and fall off. Then clean the walls with a scraper or spatula.

Durable areas should be moistened with water using a rag or brush; abundantly moistened plaster falls off more easily from hammer blows.

Coarse-grained crumbling plaster can be gradually cleaned with a spatula layer by layer, but this process is very long and tedious. In addition, it requires a lot of strength and frequent change or sharpening of the spatula.

For these purposes, a special mesh is also used for cleaning uneven surfaces, which is mounted on a holder or a special grater.

Surface cleaning device

Advice! To reduce the amount of dust, spray the walls periodically with water using a water sprayer.

When it is difficult to knock down old plaster with manual methods, you can use a perforator with a “blow” function.

How to remove plaster with a perforator? To do this, fix one of the special nozzles in the tool socket, for example, a lance or a chisel, and by switching the switch to the “hit” position, get to work.

Well, if you have the opportunity to remove the plaster grinder. Having fixed a cutting wheel with a diamond edge on it, make longitudinal and transverse cuts on the surface, and then use hand tools such as a spatula, scraper.

When repairing, the question often arises of how to remove plaster from the ceiling around heating risers or between floor slabs.

As a rule, in old apartments these places are plastered very sloppily, there are bumps or depressions on the ceiling. To level the ceiling, it is necessary to knock down irregularities with a hatchet and grind off with a grinder.

Often, at the joints of the floor panels, the cracked plaster itself falls off and it only needs a little help in this, using a hammer, less often a perforator.

Advice! Scrape plaster off the ceiling with a trowel or long-handled scraper so you can work with both hands.

Special power tools make the work much easier - grinders (LShM, angle grinders, PShM) or special machines for removing plaster (such as Flex, AGP).

The use of a particular tool depends on the thickness, density, type of plaster and the required surface finish.

To remove plaster from facades of a large area, high water pressure units (HPA) are used, which can only be used by professionals.

If, after removing the old plaster, you plan to lay a new one, then the surface must be thoroughly cleaned with a metal brush, then primed and treated with an antiseptic.

Now you know how old plaster is. Those who have already encountered this work understand how difficult and unpleasant the process is, but, unfortunately, it is almost impossible to perform high-quality repairs to walls and ceilings without it.

Plaster repair

In the process of repairing an apartment, such a phenomenon as minor damage to the plaster is very often observed. They are formed due to various mechanical damage, as well as shrinkage of the walls.

Repair of plaster is carried out as follows: the old damaged plaster is removed by scraping with some sharp tool, also grabbing some of the undamaged plaster. It is necessary to scrape everything down to the main layer. In the event that either the spray is still strong, it is allowed to leave them and apply patches only to the finish.

After the damaged part is scraped off and the surface is cleaned, it is necessary to apply some substance as a binder (for example, PVA) to the surface that remains, while grabbing the edges of the whole plaster.

It will be possible to continue repairing the plaster in about one hour, when the binder has already dried. Now it will be possible to finish the layer using standard technology.

When the main layers are damaged, they must be removed in order to exclude the option of peeling the repaired surface from the very base of the wall. You can assess the damage by the sound if you tap your knuckles on the wall. A dull sound is always made by peeling plaster.

Repair of plaster is carried out similarly to the plastering of still bare surfaces. Places where new plaster is superimposed on the old one must be carefully smoothed out to avoid various bulges or, conversely, depressions. To do this, the surface must be constantly moistened with water. Lastly, use a damp brush to run along the entire repaired surface to achieve a perfectly smooth and clean finish.

The repair of plaster also includes its grinding. This is done in order to remove various minor defects and finally level the surface. If the cover requires grinding, it must first be cleaned of whitewash, residues of paste or paint. After that, a solution is taken on lime dough with the addition of sand sifted on a millimeter sieve (proportions 1: 1), water is poured into this mixture until the density of sour cream is reached.

Do not use a lime-gypsum mortar, as in the process of prolonged mashing, this solution may lose its strength by frostbite. Also cement paste is not suitable. You can not use clean sand, as well as clean lime dough.

The next step in repairing plaster by grinding is to wet the wall with water. After that, it is necessary to apply a thin layer of the solution with a brush, which is then rubbed in a circular motion with a grater. If it (the grater) is covered with felt, then the quality of the grout will improve significantly.

If there are cracks, then they are cut 3-5 mm deep using a special plaster spatula. After that, moisten them with water and fill with a solution. It is better to fill with a spatula, the movements of which should be perpendicular to the crack itself. After that, align everything completely, moving with a spatula along the cracks.

When the smeared places dry up, they must be sanded with fine sandpaper. You can also level these places immediately after applying the prepared solution: use a grater for this.

By following these simple guidelines, you can repair the plaster yourself.

Repair of old plaster

List of articles

Determining whether or not there is a need to remove the old layer of plaster is very easy. If the plaster is easily separated from the walls along with a layer of paint or wallpaper, it should not be left, even partially. If the destruction is not very noticeable, you need to test for strength by tapping on the surface of the ceiling or wall. If there is a dull sound, it means that the layer of plaster has lagged behind the wall in this place, and a complete void has formed there.

These defects, provided they are few in number, can be “cured” by cutting out empty spaces and then filling them with a new solution. This work is also carried out when installing windows and doors. For example, on ital-on.ru/catalog/ you can purchase high-quality doors, but whether they will serve faithfully depends on their correct installation in a well-prepared doorway.

How is the old layer removed? At the beginning, it is better to moisten the surface: this reduces the amount of dust, and wet plaster peels off more easily. If there is not much work, then you can use a spatula, hammer and chisel. But it is better to fully mechanize such a laborious process and arm yourself with a conventional puncher. A suitable nozzle and the "blow" function will relieve you of memories of the old finish in half an hour. If there is no puncher, you can use the grinder. It is necessary to apply a grid of cuts, and after that return to manual labor.

If the plaster layer is quite strong, but there are cracks on it, then it will be enough to fill all the recesses with mortar. Having slightly widened the edges of the cracks, they are well cleaned and moistened with water. After that, they can be filled (for this you can use a "syringe" from a plastic bag).

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Plaster in such places is beaten off with light blows of a hammer, a chisel or a blunt axe. Stains are removed from the remaining plaster. Rusty spots and soot are washed off with a 3% hydrochloric acid solution, and greasy stains are washed off with a 2% soda solution. To remove rust stains, a solution prepared from copper sulfate and water is also used. For 1.0 liter of boiling water, take 50-100 g of copper sulfate. The solution is used in a hot state, since the cold one gives a smaller effect. If with the help of these means the stains cannot be removed, they are painted over with oil varnish or whitewash.

After that, cracks in the plaster larger than 1 mm are cut with a knife to a width of 3-4 mm, the thinnest cracks are not touched, they are filled at the first priming. If the surface is smooth and previously puttied, it is enough to seal individual cracks and small potholes. The cleaned surface is washed with water. A rough and not previously puttied surface needs a solid putty.

Before plastering, the old plaster is well moistened with water so that the fresh mortar clings to the old one more firmly. Insufficient wetting between the old and new plaster may cause cracks. The mortar is carefully leveled with a long rule so that it is in the same plane with the old plaster. Pay great attention to the lapping of new plaster to the old one. With poor grinding, even a well-leveled and wiped solution will stand out from the general plane.

The gaps between the wall and the plinth are cleared, well moistened with water and densely filled with mortar. The solution that comes out is cut off, leveled and rubbed with a grater.

When repairing plastered walls, special attention should be paid to the junctions of partitions and walls. As a result of the precipitation of the house, cracks and crevices often form here. In such areas, it is necessary to clear cracks, beat off weak plaster and attach a metal or fiberglass mesh with small cells (usually 2x2). The mesh is installed in the corner of the junction of the wall and the partition in such a way that half of it adjoins the wall, and the other - to the partition. The metal mesh is reinforced with nails, and the fiberglass mesh is embedded in the plaster.

When repairing old plaster, the same solutions are used as for new plaster. Wall plastering in dry rooms can be carried out with lime mortar, and in wet rooms - with a complex one. If you want the repaired surface to be harder, add one part of gypsum dough to six parts of lime mortar. The gypsum mixture is prepared at the rate of 1.0 kg of gypsum per 1.5 liters of water. Gypsum dough is added to lime mortar immediately before use.

Damaged corners are best repaired with gypsum mortar, which hardens quickly. To do this, the remains of the solution are removed from the bare masonry, the seams are scraped to a depth of 20 mm, moistened with water, a gypsum mass is applied and it is well leveled. Plastic and metal corners are also used (to give strength to the corners). The joints between the old and new plaster are rubbed with a plastic trowel and a wet brush.

A certain difficulty is the repair of surfaces lined with dry plaster (for example: plasterboard sheets). Sheets of such plaster do not adhere tightly to the walls and sometimes break through in some places. In these cases, the damaged areas are expanded in the form of a rectangle or square. Then a patch of the same shape and size is cut out of a piece of plaster. After that, it is applied from the mastic and the prepared patch is glued onto it flush with the old lining. When the mastic sets, the seams are filled with the same mastic or putty and overwritten.

Surfaces lined with dry plaster sheets can also be repaired with lime-gypsum mortar. To do this, cut out the damaged area and tightly lay along the entire perimeter in the gap between the wall and the lined surface with an indent from the edges of the edges by 10-20 mm paper rollers-limiters. Then prepare the solution and apply it to the area to be repaired. Thanks to the rollers, the solution does not spread on the sides. It is leveled and rubbed so that the new plaster is flush with the previously finished surface.

With high-quality work, the surfaces of wet and dry plaster will turn out to be even. You can start painting or gluing wallpaper or sheets of flexible stone.

Do-it-yourself apartment renovation - repair of old plaster

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All connections, including those used in furniture production, can be divided into two categories: detachable and one-piece.

The latter constitute a special category, since they are subject to special requirements. They work in conditions of temperature and humidity differences, which affects their durability and stability. And if detachable connections can be tightened or sorted out, then you cannot carry out such a procedure with one-piece connections.

A little about the characteristics of adhesives glue D4

In the manufacture of furniture, glued one-piece joints are mainly used. Since furniture is usually made from wood-based materials or their derivatives, appropriate adhesives are used. One of the most important criteria characterizing the adhesive is its water resistance. So, glue D4 considered the most water resistant compared to the rest. This is all the more important since polyvinyl acetate dispersions, widely used as furniture adhesives, work even in tropical climates.

About gluing

The drying parameters of the adhesive during application are affected by temperature, humidity and the pressing force of the elements to be glued. Higher temperatures shorten the time required for compression, while humidity increases it.

Another point is the humidity of the surfaces to be glued. For most moisture-resistant adhesives, it should be between 7 and 10%. That is, the surfaces must be dry.

A bit of physics

The physics of the process is such that in the process of absorbing moisture, the adhesive layer swells, and during evaporation and recoil, on the contrary, it dries up and loses in size. Such fluctuations lead to the fact that the glue line "dries out" and loses its strength and geometric stability. In fact, these cyclic fluctuations lead to the destruction of the connection and the furniture as a whole. That is why the moisture resistance of the glue is of such importance.

ABOUT THE PROCESS OF GLUING WITH THE USE OF ADHESIVE D4

When gluing, it is desirable to reduce the gap between the parts to a minimum, since a large tolerance and an increase in the adhesive layer reduce the strength of the seam and increase the drying time. Glue is applied to one of the surfaces and the surfaces are pressed against each other. It also does not hurt to clamp them with a clamp. The seam gains its final strength and water resistance after 7 days. As a rule, glue does not change the color of wood, but contact with metal should be avoided, since together with the tannic acids of the tree itself, it can change its color. The adhesive layer itself can also be painted.

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