The stair rail is the finishing touch to the design. Stair railings, external and internal for the house and summer cottage Fencing stairs do it yourself options

The second floor in the house has a staircase. It is not enough to decide where it will be located, what type of steps will be, you also need to choose what type and type of railing for stairs. This enclosing structure sets the look and feel, which is very important for creating a harmonious interior.

Design, distances, dimensions

Railings are necessary for safer use, as they are a fencing structure that prevents injury. There are models of stairs that do not provide for the presence of any protections. They may look interesting, but using such a ladder is scary. Usually stair railings consist of several elements:

Such simple construction, and it has a great variety of options. And it is the railings for the stairs that give them a special charm and originality, set the style.

Materials (edit)

The main structural elements of the handrail for the stairs - racks - are made of wood different breeds and metal. Handrails can be made of metal, wood and plastic. In the case of filling, other materials such as glass, plastic, ropes, textiles and many others are added. But even more often, stair railings are made combined - by combining two or three materials in one product.

Wooden stair railings

Wood for the manufacture of handrails on stairs has been used for a very long time. It is good because you can make elements in any style. It is possible with a variety of carvings, patterns - for interiors in classic style... Can simple geometric shapes- for more austere interiors. There is also an opportunity to design / paint / varnish in different ways.

Wooden railings for stairs can be not only traditional design….

What's also good is that you can make a wooden stair railings yourself. If you have little experience in joinery, you can find uncomplicated decor... The wood itself - due to the color, texture - is quite aesthetic, so that even simple products look great.

In this case, “simple” does not mean “bad”. The main thing is that the design of the railings fits into the concept of interior decoration. In laconic styles - minimalism, modern, loft - the simple design fits better. Figured balusters and decorations for supporting pillars are traditional forms of decorating stair railings

If we talk about what types of wood it is better to make a railing for a staircase, then harder varieties with a pronounced structure are preferable: beech, oak, cherry. Conifers - cedar, larch. They also make stair railings from pine and spruce, but pine products are too soft, you have to be careful, and spruce is difficult to handle. The rest of the breeds listed above, in principle, are also not a dream in processing, but they are very beautiful, so they usually close their eyes to difficulties.

Metal railings for stairs

Metal railings are perhaps even more varied. There are three methods of making metal stair rails: welding, forging, assembly from pipes and fittings.

Metal railings made of pipes and fittings and forged ... difference in style and ... price

Moreover, "forging" is not necessarily a hot process. There are ones that make it possible to make a wide variety of twisted and bent elements. Plus, there are possible "hot" processes. This in itself gives a lot of room for imagination. You can also use different metals and rolled products:

• Round or square bar.
• Round or shaped (square or rectangular) pipe.

In this case, the metal can be: ordinary black or structural steel, followed by painting the most different colors, stainless, nickel-plated, chrome-plated pipes of various sections. There are even options with bronze or copper elements.

Floral motives - not only flowers and leaves Geometry, which is emphasized by color ... Metal railings for stairs can be different style Complex, simple, geometric ...

Since the metal is more ductile, so many things are not made of it. Floral ornaments, geometric, fantasy, those that are even difficult to define.

Glass

In the usual sense, glass is a fragile thing, but a special one is used for stair railings - tempered or laminated. Laminated glass - duplex or triplex. This is a sheet of glass glued with a transparent polymer film. The technology is such that the transparency of the glass does not suffer at all, and the strength increases significantly. A similar material is used for machines. Even if it breaks with a strong impact, it will not scatter, and the fragments will hang on the film.

There are two types of glass stair railings: base frame (glass only) and when glass is infill only

Tempered glass is made using a different technology. It is heated to high temperature, then, blowing air from both sides, quickly bring to normal temperature. After such processing, it becomes many times stronger, withstands shock loads well, breaking, crumbles into fragments with smooth, not sharp edges.

In general, both types of glass are safe. In addition, they look good, as such structures do not look massive and heavy. Glass can be transparent, tinted, colored. If you wish, you can make a drawing like a stained-glass window. Since the filling is solid, given view fences can be considered absolutely safe. The remaining technological gaps of a few centimeters are not dangerous even for small pets.

And the staircase does not seem so heavy and cumbersome ... There may also be a drawing on the glass ... Almost a classic ...

There are glass railings that have wood or metal support pillars, handrails are also present. These models can rather be called combined. Most of the glass is placed between the pillars, and a handrail is made from the same material on top. Such railings are practically weightless, do not obstruct the view. They can be used both indoors and outdoors. They are especially good for balconies, loggias or terraces, as they do not interfere with the view.

There are also "pure glass" railings for stairs, in which there is nothing but glass. An interesting option for non-standard interiors... For these structures, duplex or triplex with a thickness of 10 mm or more is used, which increases their cost compared to “frame” options, where you can install cheaper tempered glass.

Plastic in handrail for stairs

In stair railings, plastic can be used as handrails. Round, oval, rectangular plastic handrails - budget and practical option... Budgetary - because such handrails are inexpensive, practical - because smooth plastic is easy to wipe off, and it does not wipe, does not require replacement paintwork... The only thing that can damage it is a significant shock load. But it is critical for all types of pearls.

Metal stairs with plastic railings are one of the most practical and durable options

Balusters can also be made of plastic. In this case, a metal core is inserted into the plastic (usually PVC). She will carry the load, and the plastic is just a decorative element. Stairs with plastic elements are cheaper, but no less durable. After all, PVC, of ​​which stair railings are usually made, does not rot, does not lose its properties over the years. The material is unnatural, but practical.

Combined stair railing: beautiful options

A lot of unusual and decorative stair railings are obtained by combining two or even three materials. The combination of wood and metal, wood and glass, metal and glass, all three of these materials give an unimaginable number of options and variations.

Welding frames, inserting transparent glass into them is simple and effective With patterned glass it looks no worse ... Wood, forging and glass - everything is harmonious and emphasizes the dignity of "neighbors"

Scope of use

At the location of the stairs there are internal and external. Both those and others are equipped with handrails. Usually, handrails for indoor stairs have a more refined filling than for outdoor ones, but this is not always the case. There are very beautiful wrought or wooden railings for stairs to the second floor.

Selecting the type of design

If the house has a balcony, terrace, it is logical if their fence will exactly repeat the pattern of the railing for the outer staircase. The exception is usually the staircase to the attic. They try to make them less noticeable in this case, most often they use a simple attached ladder, which can be removed or laid along the base.

If there is a need to make a stationary ascent, you can beat it, make it screw or with turntables, arrange a beautiful railing. The second option is to make a simple vertical ladder by welding small handrails on the sides. How much this option will fit into the design of the house is a question of architecture, but it is definitely cheaper.

Plastic and glass for outdoor railings

If we talk about materials for the railings of external stairs, then you can use any: wood, metal, glass, and plastic. When choosing plastic handrails or filling, it is necessary to clarify whether it can withstand operation at subzero temperatures and exposure to ultraviolet radiation. If yes, you can bet without hesitation.

It is even easier with glass - it does not react to temperature or ultraviolet light. The only thing that can stop it is its fragility. But, if you use tempered or laminated glass, this apparent fragility. But the glass railings on the porch, balcony, terrace absolutely do not interfere with the view.

Features of metal on the street

With metal, not everything is clear, but everything is clear. If you choose a railing for stairs made of stainless, galvanized or nickel-plated pipes, you must first inquire if they are intended for outdoor use. Yes, there is a "stainless steel" that is only for internal use.

If the stair railings are made of black metal, they will have to be painted. Moreover, it is necessary to use paint for outdoor work. Each element must be thoroughly cleaned from rust or scale, primed to clean metal, and only then painted. This will guarantee that the outdoor stair railings will look normal for several years. The bad news is that sooner or later the paint will give up its positions, you will have to clean it, primer and paint it again. But this is inevitable and not news to anyone.

Processing of wooden railings for outdoor use

With wood, everything is both simpler and more complicated. As you know, it feels good on the street, but just like black metal, it requires careful processing. Before installation / assembly, elements of wooden stair railings are impregnated protective compounds for external use. Please note that some of them paint the wood in an uncharacteristic color (red, greenish, grayish). If you plan to paint the railing with a cover paint, this is not so important. But if you are only going to change the tone, make it darker or lighter, this kind of "highlighting" gets in the way, especially for light tones.

After the protective coating has dried, paint / varnish / wood oil can be applied. There are few questions with paints and varnishes: it is necessary that they be suitable for outdoor use. You can choose the tone and gloss level according to your own taste.

It is worth saying a few words separately about oil for wood (it can be written "for terraces" and something like that). It does not create on the surface protective film, but penetrates between the fibers, creating a protective barrier several millimeters thick. This view is good protective coating so that when updating, there is no need to delete the old one. A new layer is simply applied over the clean, dried wood. That's it, no removing old varnish or paint. Grinding - only if necessary, if some places have been wiped out or damaged during operation. The disadvantage of wood oil is that it is expensive. But it's worth it.

When manufacturing a staircase, it is impossible to ignore such an important structural element as a railing. This mandatory component of the staircase performs several useful functions at once - it increases the safety and comfort of the system, and also gives staircase construction a complete aesthetic form.

This article will tell you what types of railings for stairs are most popular today, as well as how to install them with your own hands, guided by the installation instructions. Also presented to your attention great photos handrails and a useful video on their own installation.

Handrails play an important role in the entire staircase - they provide not only comfortable movement, but also are a decorative element of the staircase

Railing for stairs in the house - classification by type

A railing is an element of a staircase that is responsible for the convenience and safety of a person's movement along staircases. Plus, the handrails are stylish too. spectacular decoration the most stepped design.

Today in the construction market there is an incredible variety of ready-made fences for stairs in a private house.

When designing a stair railing, you need to know what the main types of railings exist in the construction of these systems. Today, the most popular among consumers are the following types of handrails:

The most popular and often used by developers are wooden, metal and wrought iron railings. Let's talk about these types in more detail.

Forged railings are very effective, but only a professional craftsman can make them.

Metallic

Very often in country houses stairs with metal railings... They are placed on stepped structures made of various materials- concrete, metal, wood, plastic and so on.

Fences made of stainless light metal have a lot of advantages - they are convenient, comfortable and cheap in price.

For the manufacture of metal fencing, the following types of metal are used:

• steel;
• aluminum;
• cast iron;
• brass and others.

Aluminum, for example, is good because it is not afraid of corrosion and is also easy to install.

Aluminum handrails can be easily made by hand if available aluminum profile and all the necessary tools

Wrought iron

The wrought iron railings are delicate, weightless and very beautiful. However, only those craftsmen who are familiar with blacksmithing can make them. Therefore, if you dream of just this type of staircase fence in your home, then you will have to turn to a professional craftsman in order to order these magnificent products.

Openwork and fabulously beautiful wrought iron railings will make the staircase in the house the center of everyone's attention.

Wooden

The most common material for stair railings at all times was wood. This popularity is due to the mass of unconditional advantages of this material, including:

• environmental Safety;
• beautiful natural view;
• ease of handling and installation;
• economical price;
• long service life.

Wooden railings are the most popular among developers because they are more comfortable and beautiful. natural material difficult to find

In addition, the wooden railings are unusually comfortable and pleasant to the touch. It is this material that is most preferable for making a do-it-yourself fence. Therefore, later in the article we will consider step by step instructions for installing wooden railings on your home staircase.

The main components of the fence

Before you start installing the railing with your own hands, you need to have an idea of ​​what these parts are and what constituent elements they include.

Only those who have certain carpentry skills can make wooden railings with their own hands; it is much more convenient to purchase ready-made products in the store

So, the handrails of a wooden staircase consist of:

• two main support legs;
• balusters;
• handrails;
• decorative elements.

The photo below shows a diagram of the fence with a picture of its main constituent parts.

Before proceeding with the installation of the handrail with your own hands, study this diagram with the image of all the components of the staircase

DIY handrail installation instructions

The whole process of installing handrails from natural wood consists of the following basic steps:

1. Railing calculation.
2. Preparation of material and inventory.
3. Installation.
4. Decorating.

Let's consider each of these points in more detail.

Even such a magnificent railing can be made with your own hands, if you put maximum patience and effort into it.

Design

At the very beginning of work, you must clearly imagine what the fence should be at your staircase. Then sketch your vision on paper. In this case, you can also use ready-made design drawings, of which there are a lot on the Internet.

Sketch the fence before installing it or use a ready-made drawing

It is important to remember that the height of the fence for its comfortable operation should not be lower than 90 centimeters.

After that, you can safely go to the nearest building supermarket for the necessary accessories for the railings.

For all the necessary components of the fence, go to the nearest construction market

It should be noted that it is not at all necessary to buy wooden blanks, and then saw out handrails from them. Today on the construction market you can find a huge variety of the most diverse finished products... You can simply choose the ones you like the most.

Another fencing idea for your staircase that you can use during installation

Preparation of accessories and tools

For more effective work make sure that everything necessary components and the tools were at your fingertips.

So, to install the railing, you will need:

• electric drill with drills;
• jigsaw;
• screwdriver;
• hacksaw;
• Screwdriver Set;
• hammer;
• chisel;
• building level.

In addition to tools, you definitely need to stock up on wooden blanks for the railing.

Installation

This stage is the most time consuming and responsible. Follow this step-by-step instruction:

1. On the staircase, measure and mark where you will have the posts. At the same time, remember the basic requirements for the railings:

2. We proceed to the installation of two bearing racks, for which, using a drill in the treads, we make recesses (pits) up to 1 cm.

When installing balusters, observe certain standard requirements, including a distance of at least 15 cm between products

3. Between the installed posts we stretch the fishing line or rope, focusing on the markings made for the balusters.

4. We proceed to the installation of the balusters themselves, setting them exactly using a level.

Balusters can be very diverse in shape and style, you can choose the option you like most in a hardware store

5. At this step, we mark the railing and make holes in them for attaching to the balusters.

6. We screw the railing to the balusters.

This figure shows the principle of fastening the railing to the staircase system

Decorating

At this final stage, we eliminate all burrs and roughness that arose during installation using sandpaper or grinder... Then we cover the installed railings with varnish or paint with wood paint.

Be sure to complete the installation of the fence with decorative measures for processing the handrails with varnish or paint

Video: installing a wooden handrail on the stairs with your own hands

You can purchase beautiful and reliable staircase structures with magnificent railings already installed in the Ladders Master online store at the lowest and most affordable prices in Moscow and the Moscow region.

Today we will consider the issue of fixing balusters and railings when installing wooden stairs. Even a person who is not experienced in the intricacies of carpentry can understand how rich and noble wooden staircases are, how difficult they are to manufacture and install.

Calculation and manufacturing of parts

The railing of a wooden staircase consists of three key elements:

1. Railings are horizontal or inclined elements, for which the hand is gripped.
2. Baluster - vertical supports between steps and railings.
3. Pillars or pedestals - vertical posts, against which the ends of the railing abut. Usually the pillars have chiseled or carved heads.

Parts of each group are made individually, after which they are assembled at the installation site. Pillars and balusters are made mainly by turning, and railings by milling.

It is necessary to start the calculation of the railing precisely from the railing, which includes straight and curved segments. In general, the configuration of the handrail is determined by the shape of the staircase in plan. During the calculations, the outer edges of the steps are taken as the base, the railings are located with some indentation from them to the center flight of stairs... The offset is necessary so that the fulcrum of the pillars and balusters is not located at the very edge. The amount of indentation is determined by the section of the supports, plus some arbitrary value is added, which is dictated by considerations of aesthetics. It is also necessary to take into account such specific circumstances as the overlap of the spans in the plan, achieving a symmetrical indentation on adjacent flights and at the same time keeping the width of the aisle as much as possible.

In space, individual parts of the railing can be located strictly horizontally and under the general slope of the staircase. The calculation of the length and dimensions of horizontal segments can be done by displaying a sketch of the railing in the drawing of the stair plan. Sloped elements are calculated in a similar way, but to calculate their actual length, it is necessary to divide the projection length by the cosine of the angle at which the staircase is inclined relative to the horizontal normal.

When calculating poles and balusters, several requirements apply, the most important of which is the height of the fences. According to GOST, the railings of stairs must rise above the plane of the steps at least 90 cm in residential buildings and at least 120 cm in public institutions and on street flights of stairs. The axial profile of the pillars and balusters can be arbitrary, but there are certain requirements: the thickness of the pillars in the support plane must be at least 10% of their height, the balusters can be 2-2.5 times thinner. The length of the balusters should be equal to the height of the fence + 7-10%, while in the basement part a uniform profile (preferably faceted) should be maintained for a length of at least 5% of the total. Pillars are made in an amount of at least two for each flight of stairs, the number of balusters is equal to or twice as high as the number of steps.

The width of the railing in the plan should be less than the thickness of the cut of the pillars in the abutment zone by approximately 30-50 mm and more than the thickness of the balusters by 15-20 mm. The milling profile can be arbitrary, but a rounded top with two longitudinal necks for a more secure hand grip is considered the preferred option. The length of the handrail segments should have an allowance of 50-80 mm in both directions for cutting and fitting.

Pre-assembly and preparation for installation

Before starting the installation of the stairs, it is necessary to first assemble the straight segments of the railing on the adhesive joints. The spatial arrangement of the handrails is a guide for calculating the attachment points for vertical elements of the fence. Since the railings are precisely processed and have a flat bottom edge, it is convenient to use them as a straight rail for further marking.

Sometimes at corners and turns of flights of stairs, the distance between flights forces you to install short handrail inserts between the posts. Depending on the configuration of the stairs, these sections are collected either from one or more radius segments, or from linear segments. The elements of the railing are prepared and glued in advance, the connection is made on secret domino pins, or on 2-3 cylindrical dowels.

Also, before starting work, they must be stocked in the right amount wooden dowels for fastening balusters and poles. It is also advisable to cut the pillars themselves to size: if this could not be done in the workshop, then due to the significant section, processing with a miter saw is not possible. It is better to mark the perimeter of the basement under a square, making sure that the end of the last line coincides with the beginning of the first. Along this line, trimming is performed with a hand-held adjusting saw with a fine tooth, it is advisable to alternately deepen into each edge by 3-5 mm. For more confidence, you can secure the limit rail with clamps.

Marking and fastening pillars

The posts are the base for positioning the entire staircase. They are located on each upper and lower step of each flight of stairs. In the presence of intermediate platforms, including turning ones, this rule must also be observed. At the same time, the uppermost pillar can be common to the railings and balustrades.

Factory poles are of two types: solid and box-shaped, that is, glued from strips of thick plywood or wood panels. It is very important that each pillar has a straight edge at the junction of the handrails, because in the case of docking with a round support, factory trimming of the railing edges is required, which significantly complicates the installation process.

Hollow pillars are fastened through a lug - a 150-200 mm piece of timber, the outer dimension of which corresponds to the pillar cavity as much as possible. The boss is attached through a through axial hole by means of a stud screwed into the step or platform. This mounting method allows the pillar to rotate around its axis and a small lateral play for its precise positioning. The hollow pillar is glued onto the glue of a thick consistency, the lower end is preliminarily greased with a small amount of sealant, this belt along the perimeter will exclude the squeezing out of excess glue.

A - box-shaped pillar with fastening through the boss. B - one-piece pillar with dowel attachment. 1 - pillar; 2 - base; 3 - plinth; 4 - hairpin or anchor; 5 - dowel

Fastening of monolithic pillars is carried out on one large (20-30 mm) dowel or on several small ones, evenly distributed over the support area. With this method of fastening, it is desirable that the abutment of the post to the site is framed by a plinth, which helps to hide the glue seam and increase the plane of support. If you have skirting boards, you can also use the tie-down method for cabinet furniture, since the niches for the nuts will ultimately be hidden anyway.

The alignment of the pillars is better with parallel-standing pairs, that is, at intermediate sites where the flights of stairs converge. The distance between the posts should provide sufficient large gap between the handrail of the lower and the steps of the upper flight. In the longitudinal direction, the position of the pillars is determined by two long straight slats laid on the edges of the steps of converging marches. A plane laid out across the line of intersection of the battens is the ideal position for posting. If necessary, they can be moved towards the spans, but not back, otherwise the railing will have an overlap. When paired pillars are positioned on platforms and bends, the endpoints are also marked according to the same principle, here it is important that the pairing with the railing is performed at the same height.

Trimming, installing balusters

Looking ahead, we note that the sequence of attaching the balusters to the steps, to the handrails, as well as the handrails themselves to the posts, can be different depending on the method of assembling the fence. Previously, all the balusters must be trimmed and the places of their attachment marked.

The bottom of the balusters is best fixed on dowels with zero tolerance by drilling the steps to a depth of 20 mm. To mark the centers of the holes, you must shoot laser level a vertical plane parallel to the end face of the steps. If the balusters are installed in the amount of one piece per step, it is enough to use a square to find its middle, based on the riser. When installing the balusters in pairs, it is necessary to achieve their uniform step, for which the protrusion of the upper step above the lower one is beaten with a square, and the remaining "clean" width is divided in such a way that the centers of the balusters are 1/4 of the resulting segment from the edges.

When installing balusters, it is important to keep their heads strictly on the same line

Balusters with a figured profile should be aligned in length with respect to the handrails. To do this, they are laid out on a flat plane, combining the profiles along their widest part. Next, a line is drawn under a long regular rail, which serves as a markup for facing at a right angle.

An oblique cut of the top of the balusters is performed on a miter saw or in a precision miter box. Balusters are trimmed in groups for each flight of stairs. First, you need to determine the actual slope of the stairs by placing a rail on the edges of the steps and beating off the horizontal axis along it with a laser level. According to this marking, a template is made with the help of a bevel, according to which fine tuning is carried out. turntable saws.

Before oblique trimming, centering holes are made at the ends of the balusters, their depth should be sufficient for deepening the dowel at least 40 mm after trimming. In the lower part, drilling is carried out after trimming the balusters to length. It is quite simple to do this: first, two extreme balusters of each span are installed dry and strictly vertically, which are temporarily fastened together with a regular rail with a straight edge aligned with the upper edge of the oblique cut. Then, one by one, the balusters are put in place, the excess length is determined with a caliper and the lower end is trimmed, if necessary, deepening the center hole and necessarily numbering the parts.

Fastening handrails

The handrail can be attached to the posts by different methods, among which the most popular is fixation on spikes or self-tapping screws through holes... The first method is more time consuming and often fastening on spikes cannot be performed without slot router with precise adjustment of the sole inclination. In the second case, the installation is easier, but there are mounting holes on the backs of the posts, which must be closed with decorative plugs.

Railing with a support rail

The railing is attached to the balusters in two ways. Simple - by means of a support rail and a little more complex - on wooden dowels. The choice of the fastening method entirely depends on the profile of the handrail: when fixing on the intermediate rail, a rectangular groove must be selected at the appropriate depth in the lower edge of the product. The handrails for fastening to dowels should also have a groove equal to the width of the basement of the balusters, but it is intended exclusively for masking the attachment points and should have a depth of 5-7 mm.

The final assembly of the fence, as mentioned, can take place in a different sequence. When fastening to the subrail rail, first the balusters are glued to the steps on the dowels, after which the rail is mounted, and then the cutting and fastening of the handrails with self-tapping screws from below. When installing the balusters on the dowels and attaching the handrails to the posts with self-tapping screws, all the railings are first glued, while drilling in them must be performed with a tolerance: in this case, landing on liquid nails will allow for more accurate alignment. If the balusters are attached to dowels, and the pillars to the handrails are fastened with a thorn joint, the curbstones are installed last, which requires the simultaneous positioning of all elements of the staircase in a short time for the glue to set.

Final processing of the railing

As a rule, fences of wooden stairs are assembled from already primed and painted parts. In such cases, it remains only to mask the splicing of the railings, their abutment to the posts and balusters to the steps, where gaps up to 1-1.5 mm thick can form. You can use acrylic sealant or natural wax based carpentry paste to fill gaps.

If wooden parts do not have a protective coating at the time of assembly, the cracks in them are sealed with wood putty, and then the entire fence is primed and painted along with the ladder. It is recommended to apply two coats of transparent water-soluble primer followed by fine sanding to remove the raised lint. Next, the steps are covered with stain or glaze in 2-3 layers. It is recommended to select two coats of clear polyurethane varnish as the main protective coating.

Hello Semyonitch! I really liked your story about how to equip the stairs yourself - very sensibly and even without grammatical errors, which is simply amazing in our time. I am writing in the hope of getting advice experienced master... The bottom line is as follows. We have built a 2-storey annex to old apartment... Due to financial difficulties, they built a primitive wooden stairs(no railings yet). A young family with a 9-month-old child lives upstairs, while we, the old people, live downstairs. The child is very active, and the question arose about the arrangement of the railing in order to avoid trouble. For the same financial reasons, we cannot afford to invite specialists, to make wooden railings ourselves - there is no skill and knowledge. On the family council decided to make a railing in the very simple version: racks - made of \ "square \" metal pipe, spaced 0.5 m from each other, filling between the racks - transparent polycarbonate 6-10 mm thick. The technical characteristics of polycarbonate (strength) seem to allow its use in this quality. The problem is in attaching it to the posts. What advice would you give about this and about the whole project?

Best regards, Vladimir Izmailov, Ulyanovsk.

Hello Vladimir from Ulyanovsk!

The question, as they say, is of course an interesting one. My grandson has exactly the same number of months as your grandson (or granddaughter?). And he climbs wherever possible and where not at all. For such guys the eye, but the eye is constantly needed.

The issue can be fundamentally resolved by changing floors for living. Which, of course, will not save in a couple - three months from the child running up and down the stairs.

The idea of ​​using a profile pipe and polycarbonate sheets for the installation of a staircase deserves attention. Nobody will give 100% guarantees that such a ladder will not be broken by a child (meaning polycarbonate). But you can try to foresee all sorts of incidents.

I am interested in the statistics of child injuries in our country. There are many accidents with children who are injured on swings, especially metal ones. Sometimes "smart" designers make a swing in such a way that there is a distance of about 10 centimeters between the swing post and the armature on which the seat is fixed, which is commensurate with the child's head. With all that it implies. Or the mosquito net on the plastic windows of the loggia does not have a secure attachment, as a result of which it may end up on the ground with a child leaning on it. And much more.

Many years ago, my teacher, Doctor of Technical Sciences, Grigory Illarionovich Leskov, said the words engraved in my memory: "Any mechanism or structure must be designed for a fool." I meant, not that all people are fools, but that everything should be like this, or strive for such perfection, so as not to provoke a person to all kinds of trouble.

If you climbed into the switchboard, then when you open the door, the electricity should turn off. If you walk up the stairs concrete stairs, then ceramic tile on them should not be slippery in any weather. If there is a ladder, then the more it has platforms and turns, the less likely it is that, having crashed on the top step, a person is guaranteed not to fly to the bottom step.

This means that for any design of your staircase, it should not be steeper than 45 degrees, but it is better to have an inclination of about 30 degrees. Have steps that are wide and low. And platforms with a width of two or three steps every meter, maximum one and a half, will not allow you to roll far.

I will not bore you with the calculations that need to be made before starting to build a staircase, especially since you do not ask about it. Nevertheless - optimal in an individual housing construction steps are considered to be about 150 millimeters high, and their width is about 300 millimeters. At least of this size in old merchant and noble houses, as well as in monastic cells, or rather staircases leading to them. And everything is made there from boards with a thickness of 50 to 70 millimeters. Baluster racks on such stairs are installed, as a rule, at each step.

That is, if you compare it with your intention to install metal shaped pipes every 0.5 meters, then their distance is slightly less. But since you intend to install a protective fence in the form of polycarbonate sheets between the posts, this is quite acceptable.

It is better to take the thickness of cellular polycarbonate 10 mm, this is more reliable. There is no dispute about tastes, but of all the colors of polycarbonate I choose yellow, it makes a joyful impression on a person even in cloudy weather and indoors, and a sheet of such (6 / 2.1 meters in size) costs only a couple of hundred rubles more than a transparent one.

For more economical use cutting and reducing material waste, the structure of the cells of polycarbonate sheets can be placed not strictly vertically with respect to the floor surface, but perpendicular to the plane of the ladder bowstring (unless, of course, you have stringers).

It is best to fasten polycarbonate sheets to metal racks from a profile pipe using self-tapping screws with a press washer. The self-tapping screw is taken with a carving for metal, not wood. Such a self-tapping screw has a tip at its end - a kind of drill and can be wrapped in metal without preliminary drilling a hole in this metal. However, first try practicing on a blank that you can then throw away. Otherwise, you run the risk of not measuring your efforts, spoil the polycarbonate sheets and break them in the place of the fastener.

If it does not work out, then first, in the places where the polycarbonate sheets are attached to the metal racks, drill the holes with a drill with a diameter of a couple of hundredths of a millimeter smaller than the outer diameter of the self-tapping screw. And only then wrap the self-tapping screw itself. All this is done with an electric drill or a screwdriver and a bat or a head for a self-tapping screw.

So that the upper edge of the polycarbonate sheets does not spoil the hands when going up and down your homemade stairs, it is covered with a handrail (railing) from above so that the edges do not stick out. And even better - cover this cut from below and from above in the places where it adjoins the bowstrings with a wooden fillet. With the fillets fastened with self-tapping screws with a head in a fold, so as not to tear the palms of the hands.

(By the way, about the handrails. In your version with metal posts, of course, you can also make them from a metal profile pipe and welding with electrodes to the posts. Or from wood, purchased, but then metal racks cut off at an angle of inclination of the railing, fastened with self-tapping screws for wood with preliminary drilling of the racks at a right angle for these screws.

It is better to fasten polycarbonate sheets from the side flights of stairs... At a height of the pipe-racks of about 0.9 meters, fastening is made with two or three self-tapping screws.

Railings are an irreplaceable attribute of a staircase structure. They perform the function of a protective element that ensures the safety of movement along the span. Railings differ in a variety of shapes and materials, they can be simple in appearance, and made in an unusual, original style... This enclosing element can be a striking design addition to the interior, become a chic decoration of any home.

After examining various photos handrails for stairs, you can be convinced of the variability of these structural elements and choose the option that is most suitable for your case.

It is not difficult to make a handrail for stairs with your own hands. Let's try to figure out how to independently make protective elements for the staircase, which material is better to use, where to start the installation process.

Material selection

First, you need to figure out what materials are used for stair railings. The most popular are the following enclosing elements.

Aluminum. If you prefer a railing made of aluminum, it will be difficult to make one yourself. Basically, these products are sold in finished form, and you just have to make the correct calculations, buy the required number of enclosing elements, assemble them with your own hands and get acquainted with step by step installation handrail for stairs.

Chrome plated. They, like the previous ones, are sold in hardware stores ready-made, therefore, to install them on your own, you need to perform the steps listed above.

Forged. Such fences look incredibly beautiful and interesting, but making a wrought iron railings at home is a rather difficult task.

Hot forging can be carried out only in a specially equipped room with regard to cold forging- you can do it at home, but you need to know the basics of this process and have everything in your arsenal necessary tools.

Made of stainless steel. Such railings are very wear-resistant, strong and reliable, however, in order to install them yourself, you will need welding and metal cutting skills.

Wooden. It is the most popular material used in the manufacture and installation of handrails in-house. Let us dwell in more detail on the wooden enclosing elements, we will provide the reader short instruction how to make a railing out of wood.

Wooden stair railings

Wood has long been used to create railings, the main advantages of this material: wood allows you to create a fence of any stylistic orientation, shape, with interesting carvings, ornaments. In addition, there are many options for decorating. wooden fences, they can be painted, varnished, etc.

For novice craftsmen, it is better to start with just such a railing, in the absence of experience in joinery, you can pick up a simple design, the tree due to its texture in any case will look interesting and aesthetically pleasing in the interior.

Let's try to figure out how to correctly make a railing for a staircase made of wood. First, decide on the type of tree, be it beech, pine, oak, birch or something else. The costs incurred for manufacturing, the quality of the railings, their resistance to sudden changes in temperature, susceptibility to decay, and ease of processing will depend on the selected breed.

Second, familiarize yourself with the main parts of stair railings. Any railings will have the following items: handrails, racks, balusters, pedestals.

Particular attention should be paid to balusters, because the appearance of the flight of stairs will depend on them. You can make them in the form of neat columns, if it is possible to use locksmith equipment - to carve various patterns and ornaments on the surface.

Hand cutting can transform these structural elements into a real work of art, the scope for creativity is incredibly wide, craftsmen carve figures of people, animals and other incredible compositions from the bars.

After preparing everyone necessary elements the question arises, how to install the railings on the stairs. Wooden curly posts can be attached directly to the steps, using grooves or metal studs, while flat balusters (presented in the form of thin boards) are best mounted on a special bar located 10 centimeters above the bowstring.

In this case, the handrail of the railing, timber and pedestals will form a frame, where it is necessary to put flat balusters. The distance between the bars in both cases should be no more than 15 centimeters.

So in general outline the process of completing the staircase with enclosing elements looks like. Having conceived to carry out the installation of the railing, evaluate your strength, choose a suitable project, calculate how much materials you need for work, prepare the necessary tools and start this interesting lesson.

Photo of railing for stairs