How to pour a concrete staircase. Pouring steps with concrete
The classic entrance concrete staircase is one of the standard designs used almost everywhere. Due to the use of standard materials and the reliability of the entire structure, a concrete staircase with their own hands is often made in private homes. At the same time, its appearance and shape are often limited only by the availability of free time for the calculation and manufacture of formwork. If it is possible to order work on the side, then only standard solutions in the catalogs of companies are more than enough.
What you need to know before installation - the pros and cons
Before you make a concrete staircase, you need to find out its advantages and disadvantages - this will help you finally decide on the choice of shape and material.
Comparison of materials in the video:
Advantages of concrete structures:
- The strength of the structure will give odds to any others made of wood or metal. If the reinforcement of the concrete staircase is correctly performed, then its margin of safety allows you not to think about the load on the surface.
- A rough concrete staircase after complete drying can be used for moving or carrying building materials, and after all work is completed, make the final finish.
- Repair of the concrete structure will not be necessary during the entire period of its operation. It requires minimal maintenance, more often cosmetic.
- The monolithic reinforced concrete staircase is completely silent - it does not make squeaks or other sounds.
- Concrete is a moisture-resistant refractory and temperature-resistant material. Not subject to decay or damage by insects.
- There are very few restrictions on the shape of the structure and other design solutions.
The disadvantages of concrete structures are much less, but they must be taken into account:
- Weight. Depending on the size, monolithic concrete stairs can have a mass of up to two or three tons - if the steps go beyond the foundation of the house, then the possibility of their uneven shrinkage must be taken into account.
- Labor intensity. Before you make a staircase out of concrete with your own hands, you need to create a wooden formwork, which, in fact, is a rough wooden staircase - concrete will then be poured into it.
- Price. To pour a staircase made of concrete, you need a frame previously made of formwork, in which reinforcement is laid and only then concreting is carried out. Therefore, the manufacture of concrete stairs will cost more than any other analogues.
Varieties of stair structures
The main division goes to the entrance (front) and high-rise. In the first case, they are used to simply get into the house, and high-rise ones are used for direct access to the second floor or cellar (basement). Each of them, in turn, has its own varieties and forms.
Even a standard concrete staircase in a private house can be of any geometric shape: usually rectangular, but there are no difficulties in creating rounded, multifaceted or combined structures, the choice of which depends on the overall design of the building.
Depending on the height to which you need to climb or descend, the second type of flights of stairs is divided into single-flight and rotary, with two or more platforms. A separate category are rotary semicircular or screw varieties. If you make a concrete staircase to the second floor with your own hands, then you must definitely take into account the need for an exit platform. The only exception is if there is already a terrace on the top floor, to which the upper flight of stairs will adjoin.
The staircase to the basement is made according to the same principle as to the second floor, but making it a little easier - by making steps to the basement with your own hands, you can arrange the formwork directly on the ground. Before this, its surfaces are recommended to be carefully compacted and covered with sand. If there is time, it is recommended to do this work in the fall, and pour the concrete in the spring. If everything needs to be done at once, then special attention must be paid to the rammer. The better it is done, the less likely it is that voids will occur due to subsidence of the soil.
Different types of designs in the following video:
Self-assembly of concrete stairs
To take on the manufacture of a concrete staircase, you need the skills of a carpenter, welder and locksmith, and in addition to know how to calculate the impact of massive structures on their support points. Even entrance standard concrete stairs without any frills will be an additional load on the foundation, which must be taken into account if they are attached separately.
The order of work is as follows:
Calculation of the flight of stairs
The first step in calculating the stairs is not even calculating its dimensions, but estimating the place where it will stand. The mass of one cube of concrete is about 2.5 tons, so the concrete stairs for the house, depending on the design, will weigh about 2-3 tons. If there is no carrier plate in the place where the lower steps will abut, then the installation will be a big question. Ideally, the staircase should be designed even when drawing up the plan of the house, and the foundation tape should pass at the place of its installation.
You also need to think in advance what the finishing will be done with - if you opt for a decorative stone, then this decision will additionally make the entire structure heavier.
Next, you need to decide on the angle of elevation - comfortable movement is possible with a slope within 30-40 °. In this case, the height of one step will be about 17 cm, and the width will be 28-30. In rare cases, it is allowed to make steps at an angle of 45 °. Given the high cost of dismantling concrete structures, it is recommended in this case to find a staircase with such a slope in advance and evaluate for yourself whether it is worth walking on it year after year or looking for an alternative.
In the case when a slope of 45 ° is nevertheless recognized as appropriate, it is worth introducing the so-called overhangs into the design of concrete steps for such stairs - they will increase their width.
If it is planned to create a spiral concrete staircase, then the width of the step along the inner radius will be less than from the outside. In this case, the calculation is performed taking into account the fact that most often they will move along the steps a little further than their middle, closer to the outer radius.
It should also be borne in mind that spiral staircases can often be with a displaced center of gravity - this is especially true for half-turn structures. In such cases, it is desirable to “lean” them against a load-bearing wall or column. For an accurate calculation of such structures, one must have knowledge in theoretical mechanics - if they are not there, then it is better to entrust the construction of such a massive structure to specialists.
Formwork installation
This is the most important stage, the quality of which depends on the appearance of the finished product and the accuracy of pouring concrete. In fact, the formwork copies the device of a concrete staircase, repeating its shape.
And reinforcement on video:
The installation procedure and the necessary materials are as follows:
- Plywood or boards for the base and side walls. - it is desirable to use laminated, about 20 mm thick. If you use boards, then 3 cm or more thick. For spiral staircases, the formwork of curved surfaces is made of 9 mm plywood reinforced with spacers.
- First, the bottom of the formwork is made - the base for the steps and marches is set at the right angle, on which the sidewalls will then be fixed. If the staircase is made close to the bearing wall, then you can do exactly the opposite - mark and fix the sidewalls on the wall itself, repeating the shape of the steps for the stairs, then attach the base to them and fix everything with the lower and side struts.
If the staircase to the second floor of monolithic concrete is adjacent to the bearing wall, then it is necessary to fix the reinforcement in it, and in the case of using a two-flight structure, make a strobe at the place where the march is poured, which will serve as additional adhesion.
- Bars 100 * 100 mm are used to support the formwork when concrete is poured into it. It is important to ensure that after strengthening there is not the slightest backlash of the base, as this is a guaranteed deformation of the entire structure.
When the base is ready, the entire formwork is waterproofed. To do this, all the cracks are blown out with mounting foam, but at the same time, it must be ensured that it does not climb inside if possible - in this case, grooves will remain on the surface of the finished staircase.
Reinforcement installation
Reinforced concrete greatly enhances the tensile and shear strength of ordinary concrete, so stairs must be made using this technology.
For convenience, the reinforcing layer is carried out before the installation of the step ceilings. In fact, a frame is made from reinforcement with a cross section of about 10 mm, repeating the shape of the stairs, but about 3 cm short of the future concrete surface. In order for the reinforcement to “hang” in the air, fasteners are placed under it, which hold it in weight.
At the intersection, or tightly tied with wire. You should get a network with square cells with a side of 20 cm.
Particular attention should be paid to the place where the lower step touches the floor. To do this, metal pins are hammered (concreted) into its surface, to which the reinforcement of the steps is attached.
When the reinforcement is ready, the formwork is finally fixed - the sides for the steps are installed and the boards are stuffed on top so that you can walk on them during the pouring and drying of the mortar.
Pouring concrete
In order for the structure to be monolithic, it is necessary to pour concrete stairs at a time, so you should prepare a reliable concrete mixer with a sufficient drum volume and invite an assistant. It is recommended to use concrete grades M250-300 - it is strong enough and light for such structures.
Approximate ratio of components: one bucket of water, two m-400 cements, 4 buckets of crushed stone and two sand, plus 10 grams of c-3 superplasticizer
Also, for pouring concrete stairs, pieces of reinforcement that will be comfortable to hold in your hand, a trowel, a bucket and a vibrator for concrete mixtures, with a nozzle of such a size that it passes freely through the reinforcement, will come in handy.
Formwork filling procedure:
- As a standard, the solution is poured starting from the bottom step or two. If too liquid concrete is used, then it is recommended to initially pour the first step and let it dry, but it is still better to make a monolithic structure and close the first step with a board.
- Then the concrete is bayoneted and treated with a vibrator.
- Steps 3 and 4 are poured, while the solution in the first two can begin to be squeezed out - a bucket and a trowel will come in handy here - excess concrete must be collected and poured onto the upper steps.
- Further, the rest of the steps and the march platform are poured in the same way, if it is in the structure.
Visually the whole process on the video:
After pouring, the surface of the steps is finally leveled with a trowel and left to dry. After 2-3 days, when the concrete sets, its surfaces can be sanded.
In the process of hardening of concrete, its surfaces must be periodically moistened with water, which will increase its strength.
Order and terms of demoulding
Until the mortar has completely dried, it is not recommended to walk on the formwork, even if it is the entrance staircase to the house, it is necessary to prepare other opportunities for access to the room in advance.
The drying time of the concrete solution is about 2 weeks. Formwork boards from the steps can be removed after about a week to initially evaluate the quality of the pour. After another week, you can completely remove the side boards, and three weeks after pouring, you can safely remove the support bars.
When the concrete is completely set, the ladder can be used to move around the house, dragging tools and other inventory.
After the repair is completed, the concrete staircase can be finally sanded and a suitable finishing option can be chosen for it - overhead steps made of wood, laminate or tile.
The ladder has been accompanying mankind for thousands of years. Still: civilization has not yet come up with a more accessible and at the same time effective way to move up and down.
People, as a rule, spend their whole lives building a career ladder, but we'll talk about a more pragmatic issue - namely, how to pour concrete stairs.
Before embarking on such an important matter as pouring concrete stairs with your own hands, you need to clarify the following fundamental points for yourself:
| How to pour a staircase out of concrete: important points | Photo |
| General planning within the concept of a house or plot |
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| Calculation of strength characteristics |
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| Project cost calculation |
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| What tools will be needed in the manufacture |
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| The appearance of the product plays a big role in the overall interior. |
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Important! Be sure to take into account the moment that the arrangement of concrete stairs, due to technological and design features, is possible only when linking its manufacture with general construction work at the time of the construction of the house. In the vast majority of cases, it will not work to make a staircase out of concrete just like that or during ongoing repairs in the house.
If you have no experience in making reinforced concrete stairs, then a great opportunity to practice would be pouring a concrete staircase to the porch. Let's start with her.
We decorate the porch: the first experience
How to fill it with your own strength and reasonable spending?
As a rule, such products have a standing single-flight construct, are not very limited in space, are not critical in terms of calculating the static load on the base, and are easily finished with a full range of decorating materials suitable for outdoor use. The production price is also, perhaps, quite attractive.
Preliminary calculations: learning to draw
And in this case, you will not be limited in the choice of design and technological solutions.
Practice and instructions show that a concrete staircase for a porch has the following average parameters:
- step height 17-18 cm;
- the width of the step or as it is also called the step plane is 30 cm;
- one-piece staircase design with a bunch of steps-risers;
- base - a foundation slab or tape made according to classical technology.
A working perimeter is marked on the ground, which reflects the boundary dimensions, design features, junctions with other structures of the house, places of reinforcement or ligament of stairs using special technological methods.
Important! At least on the sketch, it is necessary to note the presence and design of fences, canopies, decorative lighting, anti-skid elements and anti-ice systems. Their dimensions, mounting methods, locations of power supply channels and other things. The presence of visual information will be a good help, and will allow you to put the necessary elements into the overall design in time even at the stage of rough work.
Foundation arrangement: cheap and not very
A rational solution would be to create a base plate on root anchors. On the one hand, this will significantly reduce the thickness of the base plate, on the other hand, save on the amount of reinforcement due to the lack of free or, as the fitters also call them, “empty” lashes.
The root anchor is either a special product or reinforcement vertically buried in the sole of the soil, which in its cross section is 2 times larger than the cross section of the reinforcement of the main knit. Root anchors are installed in corners, junctions and other structural nodes responsible for the load.
The lashes of horizontally knitted reinforcement are fixed as rigidly as possible on the anchors, as a rule, by electric arc welding. Wire knitting is not recommended.
Attention. For those who wish to save on expensive fittings, provided that the parent soil is strong, the stairs are small and there are closely located metallurgical enterprises, it is possible to organize a foundation bearing cushion using slag-water technology.
Be sure to ensure that the waste slag is released from the blast furnace, as electrometallurgical slags are practically devoid of Portland cement. A significant disadvantage of this method should be considered a longer period of time for the maturation of the array, compared with monolithic concrete according to the classical recipe.
Gathering formwork: Lego constructor in an adult way
Perhaps this is the most crucial moment in the whole process. It is on the fact how carefully and accurately you can put together all the elements that not only the aesthetic perception of the future product depends, but also the strength and durability.
And since the house begins with a porch, you should not underestimate the importance of this element.
Modern technologies provide for the use of standard inventory quick-erect formwork when performing concrete work, which simplifies and speeds up the process by several orders of magnitude. But due to their high cost, the use of such elements is justified in the manufacture of a series of similar structures.
In other cases, a commodity edged board "inch" with a thickness of 25 mm is quite enough. Or sheet plastic, if you plan to have radius elements in the staircase design, for example, rounded encircling steps, gates and other things.
Attention. It should be borne in mind that a large number of radius elements will create objective difficulties in the subsequent finishing of the finished staircase. A straight cut of ceramics, porcelain stoneware, artificial and natural stone is much more technologically advanced than a curvilinear one.
When deciding how to pour a concrete staircase with your own hands, in addition to the edged board, you will need:
- phosphated self-tapping screw with a large pitch for wood;
- persistent metal corners for a high-quality bundle of corner elements, which are easy to make on your own;
- marking square;
- roulette.
Another question: how to pour a ladder out of concrete not only with high quality, but also quickly? Here it is hardly possible to do without small-scale mechanization.
Of the tools highly desirable:
- hand circular saw or electric jigsaw with an elongated blade of 150 mm;
- cordless or cordless screwdriver;
- vibration grinder for removing irregularities on planes, transitions, tides of an already hardened product.
The board is disassembled into its constituent elements, while in the process of marking, the thickness of the mating overlap, equal to the thickness of the board, should be taken into account. Undoubtedly, it is worth attending to the manufacture of spacers that will ensure that the flat elements remain perpendicular when a load is applied to them when pouring concrete stairs.
Subsequent tiers will fully provide wooden bars of small cross section, easy to install.
Rebar Set: Skeletons in the Closet
The old concrete workers named the two main operations with such unsightly names. With a set of formwork, they “knocked together a coffin or a cabinet”, and by linking the reinforcement they laid the “skeleton” there. And the names are very true in essence.
It is on the strength and quality of the skeleton that the life expectancy of the stairs directly depends. The main methods of knitting reinforcement are widely known and described in an accessible way.
We repeat that it is useful to weld the root nodes by electric arc welding, and the cells of the plane are connected by a loop knot with a knitting steel wire. Under production conditions, it is subjected to medium-temperature annealing, which leads to high ductility and softness of the steel.
When laying the bottom layer of the reinforcing mesh, do not forget to evenly hang it above the "sole" at a distance of at least 30 mm.
Choose the thickness of the reinforcement mesh and the mesh size based on reasonable economic needs and the specific design of the product.
When assembling the frame, be sure to close the future technological channels and nests of embedded elements with stoppers. At the same time, a pre-prepared technological sketch or drawing of a future product will come in handy.
Pouring a concrete mass: from water to stone
The practice-proven recipe for the preparation of a concrete mixture is as follows:
- portland cement (10 parts);
- crushed stone fraction 10-20 mm (30 parts);
- sand mass (20 parts);
- water (7 parts).
Important. Work on pouring concrete steps must be carried out in a single operation, without breaking it in time. Otherwise, incomplete closing of the array of artificial stone is possible. Professional concrete workers call this phenomenon "layer cake", sometimes adding "grandma's" at the same time.
The pouring operation must be started from below, carefully monitoring the strength of the formwork structure under the load that has arisen, and aligning loose and displaced spacers in time. Filling the frame with mass, make sure that all sinuses and undercuts are well filled, preventing the formation of voids and cavities.
The video in this article shows the key points of manufacturing technology and the procedure.
The use of a vibrator makes it possible to obtain a more dense and high-quality array. In extreme cases, concrete steps can be poured without it. As a budget option, a manual rammer is also suitable.
If the first experience was successful, the miscalculations and technological nuances are taken into account, it is worth moving on to a more complex option, making a concrete staircase to the second floor with your own hands.
Interfloor staircase: higher and higher and higher
How to pour a concrete staircase to the second floor without attracting hired workers, without spending extra money, and having confidence in the quality of the work performed.
Having decided on such a step, you need to know exactly how to properly pour a concrete staircase, and what not to do, since such critical elements do not forgive mistakes.
Based on the layout of the room and other nuances, it is immediately necessary to decide on the type of stairs that will connect the floors:
| Type of stairs | Design features | Application |
| Monolithic single-flight staircase with riser
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The side ends can be open and closed, which implies the use both in the inter-wall space and as a separate independent structure |
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| Single-flight staircase with a monolithic stringer and a through-type step without a riser
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| Multi-flight stairs of monolithic and through types, including stairs with intermediate turntables
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| , complex multi-radius structures with both closed and open steps
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Technical nuances: briefly about the main
In the main aspects of the issue: concrete stairs - how to fill in correctly, we figured it out. Remaining nuances:
- In general, the manufacture of concrete stairs to the second floor does not differ in technology from the manufacture of stairs for the porch of a house. Of the features, the following should be noted. The brand of finished concrete should not be lower than B-15
- As an inert filler in the self-preparation of a concrete mixture, it is desirable to use crushed granite fr.5-25 with a minimum content of flaky and pulverized inclusions. As sand, the use of enriched quartz with a modulus of 0.8-1.1 is welcome.
- How to pour concrete steps with a solution of such a thick consistency? At the initial stage, skill is indispensable, and then the acquired skills will do their job, and the concrete will flow like clockwork.
- When preparing the base, you can not use the floors of the lower floor, thermally insulated using foam plastics, mineral wool, and similar materials. Otherwise, it is necessary to cut the insulating sandwich and pour a full-bodied reinforced carrier plate.
The location of flights of stairs at angles in excess of critical values is not allowed.
A progressive step in the recruitment of a power frame should be considered the use of not cut, but bent along the profile of the reinforcement structure.
This reduces the occurrence of internal stresses by an order of magnitude and increases the overall stability of the load-bearing frame against rupture, fracture and twisting. It is convenient to bend the reinforcing bar using roller-lever devices.
Do not forget about the “one day” rule - that is, the entire structure must be poured at a time, without a break in time. Well, remember the order from top to bottom. This will avoid the appearance of voids and cavities. Video: pouring a concrete staircase can be viewed several times, focusing on important points.
In conclusion, it should be noted that the manufacture of a concrete staircase with your own hands, while observing the basic technological methods, is not some kind of complicated process.
However, it should be remembered that the domestic legislator clearly regulated the conduct of such work by state standards 9818-85 “Reinforced concrete marches and landings of stairs”, which must be taken into account when carrying out independent work, and then the poured concrete stairs will serve faithfully for many years.
Since ancient times, stairs have been an integral architectural element of most buildings. In addition to the main purpose, steps can become an accent and a good addition to the interior or exterior. With the development of technology, high-tech and industrial styles have gained particular popularity, the appearance of which also influenced the design of stairs. With their help, you can divide the room into zones, make the interior interesting and dynamic. The layout of low-rise and high-rise buildings will depend directly on the location of the stairs and the porch. Different materials are used for pouring, but most often builders make steps from concrete.
Training
Pouring steps with concrete requires preparation. First of all, it is necessary to determine the number, height and width of the steps, calculate the approximate cash costs. The width of the steps must exceed the width of the entrance doors by at least fifteen centimeters. If the builders plan to make a wide platform near the building, the parameters of the porch can also be increased. It is also important to think about the need. Each step should be about seventeen centimeters high and about thirty centimeters wide. The slope of the concrete porch should be forty-five degrees, if this figure is higher, then it will be difficult to climb the stairs, especially for the disabled and the elderly. If there are more than three steps, builders should take care to install stable ones. Before starting work, it is important to make drawings with dimensions. Then you can start preparing the base, for the manufacture of which concrete is also used.
Tools and materials
You will need:
- cement mortar;
- gravel;
- screwdriver;
- Master OK;
- formwork boards;
- reinforcing mesh, wire;
- self-tapping screws, metal corners;
- wooden grater;
- jigsaw;
- drill;
- scissors for cutting metal;
- concrete mixer;
- vibrorail.
For effective waterproofing, the porch is cut off from the base with roofing material. Wood lags behind concrete surfaces after they harden, but this material has a significant drawback. Boards warp and deteriorate from variable moisture. If you are going to use the same boards when building several flights of stairs, you will have to protect them from damage. Before laying the reinforcement and pouring the porch, the tree is covered with a special dense material that will protect it from moisture, for example, roofing material. In the event that the necessary building material is not at hand, wooden boards are varnished. To fasten the formwork, self-tapping screws should be used. Experts do not recommend using nails, as the mount will be difficult to disassemble.
pouring steps
Construction work consists of the following stages:
- Site preparation. First you need to carry out preparatory work. The builders argue that the soil should not be used as the basis for the structure, since its structure changes at low temperatures. Frosts affect the condition of the soil and, as a result, can cause deformation in concrete and steps. First of all, workers must remove the top layer of soil. It is necessary to remove the soil that freezes through during frosts: you need to remove more than thirty centimeters of soil. Thus, you will be able to protect the porch from the negative effects of low temperatures. To create a reliable foundation for a concrete structure, you should remove the soil not only under the future staircase, but also around it (at least ten centimeters around the perimeter of the prepared site). Then gravel should be poured into the pit, which will serve as the basis for pouring concrete. It is advisable to use medium-sized gravel, otherwise it will lie unevenly. After that, the site is moistened, compacted, leveled, sand is poured on top, the layer of which should be up to five centimeters thick. Waterproofing material (for example, polyethylene) is covered with sand. It is important to glue or weld each seam. Thus, the flooded steps can be protected from moisture penetration.
Reinforcement. The porch should be made so that it is securely attached to the building. The use of reinforcement inserts will help to solve this problem - they will fasten concrete structures. Builders can insert reinforcing mesh into a cement foundation using drilling. To do this, holes are made in the foundation, and then special pins are implanted in them. Reinforcement is carried out by strengthening the main nodes, the rest of the space of the future porch is covered with a mesh.
- Formwork. Workers begin pouring concrete steps with the preparation of formwork. It will give the concrete solution the desired shape. For frame parts, experts use wood or metal, but in this case it is preferable to make formwork from wood. You can save building materials by forming a small elevation in the center of the future porch. The elevation is made of medium-sized gravel. Due to such actions, you will be able to use less concrete mix. Builders should calculate the amount of mortar, taking into account that a layer of concrete mix must be at least thirty centimeters around the entire perimeter of the structure. At the beginning of construction work, it is necessary to assemble the formwork, each side of which can be identical to the cutouts of the stairs or have similar shapes. The appearance of the formwork depends on the methods of fastening the elements. It is important that the frame is strong, since the formwork must withstand the concrete solution. To fix the sides in front, stakes made of metal or wood are used. At the back, builders fix each side to the wall. When installing the frame, it is necessary to take into account all the values \u200b\u200bspecified in the drawing - any distortion will affect the appearance of the stairs. Builders also cut out transverse wooden elements, with the help of which steps are formed. The height of the steps is about seventeen centimeters, the width is thirty centimeters, but you can choose the right parameters depending on individual preferences. The installation of the transverse elements is determined by the features of the sidewalls. So, they can be placed directly on the grooves or fixed on self-tapping screws, squares, if the structure of the sidewalls is solid. After the complete assembly of the wooden structure, it is wedged and then fixed. This will prevent it from being squeezed out under the onslaught of cement mortar. The upper part of the sidewalls should be connected with planks across, and outside they are fixed with pins.
Pouring concrete into formwork. Concreting. The composition of the cement mixture includes sand and Portland cement. In addition, they add to the solution - it serves as a filler that increases the volume of concrete and reduces the consumption of building material. Experts advise adding as much water to the cement mixture as needed for a homogeneous solution. However, it is important to take into account: if there is less water in the composition, then the concrete will be stronger. After that, you can start pouring the concrete mixture into the formwork. Sometimes builders add stones to concrete: this will help reduce material consumption. Then, when the form is partially filled, the formwork must be tapped in order to exclude the formation of voids inside. The formwork is removed after the concrete has dried.
- Dismantling of wooden formwork. The form is recommended to be removed one month after the concrete has been poured. During this period, the solution must dry, otherwise the steps are likely to deform.
Reading time ≈ 4 minutes
Making a durable concrete staircase is best suited for private homes. The purchase of materials does not require significant costs, the work can be carried out on their own. Before starting construction, it is only important to draw up the correct drawing, make calculations, and conduct correct preparation. A concrete staircase is being erected with your own hands without much difficulty: you only need to take into account the step-by-step instructions and recommendations of specialists.
Formwork assembly
Before starting work, you need to prepare a strobe for pouring the marching platform. The depth of the strobe should be about 10 cm.
After pouring concrete, the thickness of the flight of stairs will be 15 cm.
Structural reinforcement and concrete pouring
The fabrication of the structure will be reliable only if the reinforcement is correct. Therefore, any monolithic concrete staircase must include reinforcement with a diameter of at least 10-12 mm. They should be placed along the shields at a distance of about 10-15 cm.
At the top, the ladder rests on a slab and reinforcement must be driven into it. The reinforcement is connected to each other by wire.
It is important that at the bottom the stairs rest on the slab in the place where the foundation wall passes (this must be taken into account when planning the house). If the support of the march of the concrete stairs is simply on the slab without support from below, then the slab itself may burst, because. the weight of the monolithic staircase is impressive.
Side shields are installed from the board and timber. Boards for the construction of steps are attached to them. The optimal step height is approximately 17-20 cm, but it all depends on the angle of inclination of the stairs, the width of the tread. If desired, the contractor can make a concrete staircase to the second floor with slightly smaller or larger transitions. Additionally, the step boards are interconnected to create a solid structure.
After the formwork is installed, concrete is poured according to the following scheme:
- The first couple of steps are filled.
- A similar pouring of steps is carried out up to the march span. Next, the site itself is filled with a solution.
- Further filling of steps is carried out up to the floor slabs of the second floor.
- The concrete is compacted with a vibrator (it allows you to remove air bubbles in the concrete).
In work it is recommended to use concrete of the M250-300 brand. Before starting work, auxiliary supports should be installed, which will prevent the structure from moving due to too heavy mortar. It will be difficult to manually prepare the required volume of the mixture, so you should use a concrete mixer and an assistant in your work. When the correct pouring of the concrete stairs is completed, the performer will only need to wait for the time for the solution to completely solidify.
Features of formwork removal
In order for the ongoing production of a concrete staircase to be correctly completed, there is no need to rush to remove the formwork. It is recommended to remove side boards and step boards no earlier than after 7-14 days. It is advisable to wait 1.5 weeks - this period will be enough for a good setting of the solution. After another 1-2 weeks, the vertical supports and the lower formwork are removed. At this stage, the stairs in the concrete house can be fully used for further construction work.
The above instructions with photos and videos will help you understand how to make a concrete staircase yourself. But it is important to take into account the accuracy of the subsequent work. Completely hardened concrete should be sanded, eliminating surface irregularities. If necessary, you can finish with wood, tiles and other wear-resistant materials. But it should be borne in mind that the load on the stairs should not be significant.
A staircase is a complex building structure, which must be distinguished by high reliability, safety, durability, aesthetics and comfort. All of these standards correspond to a staircase made of concrete. It is better to entrust the manufacture of concrete stairs to professionals. When carrying out work, you need to make the right calculations, create a unique project and follow all the steps of the step-by-step instructions.
Such a staircase is often installed in capital or street buildings made of concrete and brick, its service life is more than 50 years, and subsequent cosmetic repairs update the design and extend its service life up to 100 years.
Benefits of concrete stairs
Compared to a wooden structure, the laying of a concrete staircase is carried out during the construction of a private house. This is one of the details of the object, which enhances the structural strength. Other benefits of the building include:
- reliability, durability, long service life;
- resistance to humidity, minimal risk of fire;
- the possibility of laying together with the building, which ensures savings;
- use of corrosion-resistant steel reinforcement;
- the possibility of finishing with any building material;
- resistance to negative external factors, enhanced operation.
Selecting the type of stairs
Before starting construction work, you should decide on the type of construction, the shape of the stairs, and select suitable high-quality building materials. You should not save much on the purchase of raw materials, since its quality can greatly affect the reliability and durability of the finished product. The stairs cannot be used immediately after pouring the steps, as the curing of concrete lasts up to 4 weeks. Only then can the formwork be removed. You also need to decide in advance on the location of the structure, the method of opening the doors.
By design, monolithic stairs are divided into straight (one- and two-flight), spiral (or spiral). Screw versions with winder steps have an aesthetic appearance, they are more in demand among consumers, but require radial formwork, so they are most often made to order.
An elementary option is a direct interfloor staircase with one march, located between two walls. In this case, there will be no end parts of the structure, and the formwork is fastened to the walls. It is more difficult to make a semicircular or monolithic structure based on one wall. To design a free end, you need to add one side part to the structure. You can choose a marching system where there are no supports on the walls (the lower and upper floors serve as the bearing elements), the formwork is assembled with side elements.
But there is not always enough space to build a one-march version, so preference is given to a two-march version with running steps or platforms between marches.
Also, concrete stairs are monolithic, combined, prefabricated from factory-made marches and type-setting.
The first type is performed on site using the technology of pouring concrete mortar into the formwork; it can be installed anywhere (on the porch, street or basement).
The classic version of a completely monolithic design The second option is a metal structure of complex shape (framework) with concrete steps. Each step is cast using formwork and reinforcing mesh, and marble chips and crushed granite are used as building materials. The dried surface is polished.
Prefabricated marches of factory production are used mainly in apartment buildings, however, if desired and with a small crane, this option can also take place. The main advantage is the price, the disadvantage is the limited standard sizes.
Type-setting types consist of a concrete beam (kosour) and individual steps, which are rectangular, triangular, corner and with a groove. Reinforced concrete types are factory-made according to specified dimensions and have a standard shape.
Stacked steps on steel stringers Stair calculation
Before starting construction work, you need to measure the space, make a diagram, drawing or project of the planned structure with a preliminary calculation of all elements and an indication of the required dimensions. The drawing is developed with a reflection of the design parameters, the number of steps, height and width. As a rule, the height of the steps is 15-18 cm, and the minimum span is 80-90 cm. You also need to take into account the thickness of the finishing material, know the building codes, perform the work in stages, do not forget about the presence of fences and embedded elements.
Climb angle
The first parameter is the angle of inclination (rise), the value of which affects the length and height of the structure. So, with an equal height, a product with an angle of inclination of 25 ° will be longer than analogues with indicators of 35 ° and 45 °.
For the construction of a staircase with an angle of 45 degrees (projection of a span of 3 meters), 2.35 times less building materials will be spent than for a product with an angle of 25 ° (projection of a span of 6.4 m).
Optimum slope range 24 - 37 degrees In accordance with the manual, you need to choose the angle of rise based on the appropriate size of the march, the complexity of the structure and its comfort.
Step sizes
Having decided on the angle of inclination and height, the work of designing concrete stairs includes breaking them down into steps. The optimal step size for calculating the width is 27-30 cm, the height is 16-20 cm. If you make higher steps, then it will be more difficult for both the elderly and people who are used to the standard step to move along them. Very low steps less than 15 cm will also be inconvenient for an adult, but for children this is the best option.
You can select the parameters of the steps using the formula: 2H + L \u003d 60-64 cm, where H is the riser (step height), L is the tread (width). For the calculation, you can take the above indicators: 2 * 18 + 30 \u003d 66 cm.
Ladder width
As a rule, the width of the stairs in a country house depends on the free area or the space between the walls where it will be placed. It should not be narrower than 80 cm, since when climbing to the second floor along a narrow staircase (or descending from it), a person will feel like in a tunnel. It will also be inconvenient to carry any items. Therefore, the optimal size will be 90-120 cm.
It is imperative to build a safe and secure fence, especially when the elderly and children live in the house. If the fence is located on the steps, it will slightly reduce the effective width of the march, keep this in mind when calculating.
Online calculator for calculation
For your convenience, you can make all the calculations using a convenient.
Formwork assembly
After performing the calculations, you need to independently build the formwork. The following materials will be required for construction:
- moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of 1.2-1.8 cm, edged board with a thickness of 3 cm for the bottom of the formwork, flanging and risers;
- sheets of moisture-resistant plywood (0.6-0.9 cm each) for the manufacture of curved zones;
- support bars 10x10 cm or boards 15-17 cm wide, 5 cm thick for props;
- bars 10x10 cm for mounting boards or plywood sheets;
- metal corners;
- fasteners (wood screws) 3.5 mm;
- concrete, trowel for leveling the mortar, grater, device for smoothing the edges of concrete structures.
In order for the concrete surface to remain smooth after hardening, it is necessary to grind the wooden formwork parts in contact with the mortar. When using smooth plywood, no leveling procedures are required.
1 - beam for fixing formwork elements; 2 - tightening bar; 3 - winder formwork; 4 - end formwork. The formwork must be assembled with the following steps:
- the lower part of large boards and plywood sheets is exposed. They are tightly fastened together with bars from the outside. The bottom of the structure is supported by beams or boards, while the step of the supports must correspond to the step of the steps. Fix the parts with self-tapping screws, which are convenient to unscrew during dismantling;
- on the sides they put a flanging from an edged board or plywood, reinforcing it from the outside with boards;
- mount the riser bars to the flanging or wall with metal corners;
- joints in parts are sealed with a solution of cement and sand or leveled with a planer, grinder.
Layout of the formwork elements The thicker the bars, the higher the structural strength. The weight of the reinforced concrete structure will be large, which must be taken into account during the construction process. You can add additional rigidity with transverse bars.
Reinforcement
For a small staircase in a cottage, reinforcement can be made with a mesh, which is connected from reinforcement measuring 1-1.2 cm at a distance of 15-20 cm (the mesh size will be 15x20 cm). The rods are connected by wire.
Large products must be made from a reinforcing cage, including several grids mounted by vertical rods or by welding. The distance between the grids is 2-3 cm.
The frame is the skeleton of the structure where the hardened concrete solution will be fixed, so its horizontal rods must be fixed in the wall, in pre-drilled holes. The mesh or frame is laid in the lower area of \u200b\u200bthe formwork 2-3 centimeters from the bottom (you can raise the reinforcement using stands, bricks or stones). In the area where the railing is located, you need to put corks or metal plates.
Pouring concrete
During concreting, a concrete grade of at least M200 (from B15 class) is used. The solution is kneaded in a concrete mixer or ordered from RBU, must contain the following components: 10 parts of cement, 30 parts of crushed stone with a fraction of 10-20 mm, 20 parts of sand and 7 parts of water. If the composition is dense, then you can add 3 parts of water.
Now you need to fill in the composition correctly:
- the lower steps are performed first;
- the solution is rammed to give strength and density. To do this, you can use reinforcement, which pierces concrete in several areas. professionals recommend using a more reliable method - a construction vibrator that squeezes concrete through the formwork;
- giving the correct shape to the steps, smoothing with a trowel;
- pouring the remaining elements and the porch;
- covering the solution with a film to protect against cracks and early hardening. You can also regularly moisten the outer surface of the flooded area with water.
Formwork removal
Concrete gains strength within 4 weeks. After 7 days, you need to remove the boards from the steps and sides. The released surfaces are leveled with a grinder or grinder with a concrete wheel. After 21 days, the retaining bars with the lower area of \u200b\u200bthe structure are removed. And only on the 28th day you can completely remove the rest of the formwork.
Finish lining
A do-it-yourself concrete staircase can have different finishes: wood, laminate, tile, carpet, acrylic stone or porcelain stoneware. Laying of any material must be carried out on a flat surface. After dismantling the formwork, irregularities may remain on the site, which are recommended to be removed by grinding and plastering. The end parts are usually finished with plaster and covered with paint. After that, the steps are covered with one of the materials.
Surface cladding can be done with tiles, artificial or natural stone with a rough surface. The material is laid on a cement mortar or tile adhesive. Using the same technology, mosaics are laid, making original compositions from small elements.
Photo-instruction for the installation of clinker steps Finishing can be done with wood panels resistant to abrasion. For this, larch and exotic species that have undergone antiseptic treatment are selected.
Installation of larch wood cladding An excellent treatment option is laminate, which is resistant to abrasion, easy to install and durable.
If children or elderly people live in the house, then you can choose carpet, available in different colors.
The final step is carpeting To save the steps, you can simply paint them with high-quality paint for concrete.
Coloring - cheap, but in its own way an interesting option In any case, the appearance of the stairs is associated with the taste preferences and financial capabilities of the owner.
