Polymer floors: do-it-yourself self-leveling coatings, screed technology, pouring PUR floors, how to make a liquid polymer. Self-leveling floors - features and benefits Polymer floors how to do

Currently, construction is an important branch of the national economy. A special place in this section is occupied by the work on the manufacture of the floor in a particular room. Today, for the construction of a floor, you can use a wide variety of materials: wooden boards, plywood, linoleum, concrete coating. In recent years, the so-called liquid polymer flooring is gaining more and more popularity. It is also called bulk. Unlike conventional materials, it has a number of advantages.

Polymer floors are divided into types such as: epoxy, polyurethane, methyl ethacrylate.

Polymer self-leveling floors are a synthetic coating. It is most often used in large retail spaces, garages, exhibition halls, etc. Very often, polymer self-leveling floors are used in production due to their strength and durability. It is not difficult to make such floors with your own hands. In addition, there are 3D floors. They differ from the previous coating by the presence of complex patterns, which not everyone can do with their own hands. Let's consider in more detail how to fill polymer floors, the main stages of work, the positive and negative aspects of this coating.

Read also:

: preparation, process and features.

About, how to glue non-woven meter wallpaper, read.

Advantages and disadvantages of self-leveling floor

Polymeric self-leveling floors have a number of positive qualities, which makes them in great demand.
Firstly, polymer floors are of different types (epoxy, polyurethane, methyl ethacrylate), depending on this, they can withstand high temperatures and do not allow water to pass through.

Secondly, despite the use of a polymer base, they are hygienic, easy to handle and wash. Thirdly, this coating is resistant to various chemical agents.
Fourthly, polymer floors can be glossy or matte, so you can choose the desired design in accordance with the interior of the room. Fifth, polymer floors contain a liquid component that hardens quickly. This contributes to better adhesion of the liquid to any surface, be it wood or concrete. Unlike wood and concrete subfloors, this coating is done quickly and effortlessly.

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Preparatory work

The difficulty of erecting self-leveling floors is that they require a perfectly flat surface. In the event that the base is represented by tiles or tiles, you will have to create some roughness. This can be done with sandpaper or sandpaper. Often problems arise when leveling the base if it is made of wooden planks. To do this, first fill up all the irregularities. Unevenness in the subfloor can be well manifested when disassembling the log and removing the old coating.

The permissible difference in the height of the surface of the self-leveling floor is 4 mm. If possible, you can make a concrete screed. If you do not do it, then irregularities and defects are removed with a grinder or grindstone. To determine the evenness of the coating, it is recommended to use a water or building level. It is also advisable to prime the surface. The primer prevents moisture penetration and increases the adhesion of the self-leveling floor to the base. After the base is made, it is necessary to nail slats like a plinth around the perimeter of the room. This is necessary so that the liquid polymer mixture does not spread into the voids between the floor and the wall. The slats are fixed with self-tapping screws, nails (if the wall is wooden) or dowels (if the wall is concrete).

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Mix preparation and pouring technology

In order to make polymer floors with your own hands, you will need to prepare a working solution. You can buy a polymer mixture at any hardware store. After that, it must be diluted in water. This is one of the most crucial stages of all work, since the result of pouring largely depends on the quality of the solution. It is necessary to prepare the mixture only according to the instructions attached to the product. The mixing process is of great importance. This should be done slowly so that not a single lump remains. In addition, there should be no air bubbles in the solution.

Mixing can be carried out using a special mixer or improvised means. The next stage of the repair is pouring the mortar. The liquid polymer must be applied to the surface from the area of the room farthest from the doors and gradually move towards the exit. The optimum floor layer should be about 4 mm. If you make it thinner, then it will not have high strength and reliability. This option is suitable as an addition to the base coat. It is best to pour the mixture together with an assistant. One person holds a container with a polymer liquid and gradually applies it to the floor, while the other evens out the surface. A wooden batten can be used for leveling.

After the polymer self-leveling floor is dry, you can start applying varnish. Varnish is needed to give the coating a certain shine. In addition, the varnish increases the wear resistance of the material and makes it smoother. The drying time of the polymer mixture is on average about half an hour. But it's best to read the instructions on the packaging. The varnish is applied only to the hard surface. It is recommended to paint the floor in two or even three layers. It is not possible to walk on the new self-leveling floor right away, otherwise traces may remain on it.

When planning an independent arrangement of a polymer floor, you need to remember that the work must be done as efficiently as possible so that the coating lasts as long as possible. The topic of today's article is the technology of pouring polymer floors, the procedure is complex and time-consuming.

Coating features

Self-leveling polymer floor is the most common type of polyurethane and epoxy coatings, characterized by increased decorative properties.

The thickness of the fill in this case varies between 2.5 mm and 5 mm. It is impractical to make the layer thicker, since this will significantly increase costs, and the functional and decorative parameters of the floor will remain the same. Areas of application - residential and public buildings.

Types of self-leveling floors	Characteristics of self-leveling floors	Application
Thin-layer floors	thickness 250-300 microns	Thin-layer coatings are used for industrial floors exposed to medium mechanical stress, protection of concrete floors from aggressive environments and dust, giving a decorative appearance
	thickness up to 4-5 mm, filling with sand by weight up to 50%	Self-leveling self-leveling floors are suitable in rooms with medium and high mechanical loads, where special, increased requirements are imposed on the floors. Such floors have a smooth surface (glossy or matte) with dirt-repellent properties, decorative, hygienic, easy to maintain, maintainable
Highly filled floors	thickness - 4-8 mm, filling with sand by weight - up to 85%	Highly filled floors are suitable for environments with high humidity and extreme temperature conditions. These floors are particularly shock and wear resistant. In terms of properties, they are close to polymer concrete.
Bulk colorless epoxy	Density 1.10. The ratio A: B is 100: 60. Life time 35 min Dry residue 100%.	A two-component, solvent-free, colorless epoxy system for high-strength decorative topcoats.
Universal epoxy pouring compound	Density 1.50. The ratio A: B is 100: 10. Life time is 25 minutes. Min. application temperature +10. Dry residue 100%.	Two-component painted epoxy for leveling and finishing polymeric coatings on concrete, both under other ESP® coatings and as a stand-alone coating.
Conductive epoxy filler	Density 1.65. Ratio A: B -100: 10. Life time is 20 minutes. Min. application temperature +10. Dry residue 100%.	Installation of conductive protective coatings on concrete foundations in warehouse, production, assembly and other premises with requirements for electrical conductivity.
Polyurethane floor	Density 1.45. The ratio A: B is 100: 20. Life time 30 minutes. Min. application temperature +10. Dry residue 100%.	These coatings, which are based on a hetero-chain polymer, are rigid-elastic, that is, with high mechanical strength, they have a sufficient elastic resource. They arrange a polyurethane floor covering in a wide variety of premises - industrial and industrial, residential and public, in children's and educational institutions, in parking lots and in freezers, etc. In terms of layer thickness, the polyurethane floor can be thin-layer (up to 1 mm), self-leveling or quartz-filled, with increased resistance to abrasion and shock loads. Various special properties (anti-static, anti-slip) can be imparted to the polyurethane coating.

Among other advantages of polymer floors, it is worth highlighting:

wear resistance;
dustlessness;
immunity to aggressive chemical compounds;
a wide range of colors - the coating can be both colored and transparent;
lack of smell when styling;
the ability to apply 3D drawings.

Note! The quasi-three-dimensional image is made possible by the decorative polyurethane component. In such cases, the floor is poured in two stages - first, the polymer mixture is poured, then, after it dries, a topcoat is applied (more on this at the end of the article).

Due to the high aesthetic level, polymer floors allow you to create full-fledged compositions using marble chips or colored sand. The filling procedure has its own nuances, we will consider them in more detail.

Stage 1. Preparation

Arrangement of a self-leveling polymer floor begins with preparatory work.

Wooden base

Step 1. First, the room is cleaned of debris and dust, furniture is taken out, decorative elements are dismantled (such as skirting boards, cornices).

Step 2. Then everything necessary for work is prepared. You can use a vacuum cleaner to remove small debris, and a sander to remove glue and old coatings. By the way, the reliability and durability of the future floor largely depends on the quality of cleaning.

Step 3. Next is the preliminary preparation of the base. In this case, it is very important what material was used for the previous coating, because if it is, for example, wood, then the base should be pre-sanded, putty all cracks, treated with a degreasing compound - all these measures will improve the adhesion of the polymer to wooden boards. For degreasing, you can use gasoline, acetone or any other organic solvent.

If there is no difficulty in disposing of the residual solvent, a surfactant or KM alkali solution can be added. Although today you can buy special means for degreasing wood (for example, Mellerud), which in parallel protect the surface from fungal formation.

Step 4. The moisture content of the floor is estimated using a moisture meter. It should not exceed 10%, otherwise the polymer filling will be of poor quality.

A concrete floor is prepared for pouring in a slightly different way.

Step 1. The moisture content of concrete is estimated, if it is higher than 4%, then the surface is dried. To determine humidity (in the absence of a moisture meter), you can use one old method: a rubber mat is placed on the floor and pressed tightly, and if the surface under it has not changed color after 24 hours, then the base is ready for pouring.

Concrete floor moisture meter

Step 2. The compressive strength of the floor is also checked (the norm is 20 MPa and above). To do this, hammer blows are applied to a chisel installed perpendicular to the surface. If the concrete has not crumbled, and the chisel has left barely noticeable marks, then the strength of the base is within acceptable limits.

Step 3. The presence of waterproofing is checked. If it is not there, then further work on the creation of a self-leveling floor is impossible, because the concrete will begin to flake off, which is especially important in the bathroom or kitchen.

Moreover, in case of poor-quality insulation, moisture will rise through the capillaries in the concrete coating to the polymer layer and sooner or later will destroy it.

Note! Otherwise, the preparatory measures for a concrete base are practically no different from those for a wooden base.

If a polymer floor is poured onto a tile, then first its voidness is checked (it may appear after the tile adhesive has dried). All components that have lagged behind the surface must be removed, and the resulting voids must be putty.

After that, the surface is degreased.

Stage 2. Level difference

This term is used to refer to the difference in height between the highest and lowest points on the floor surface. If the difference is 0.5-2.5 cm, then before applying the primer, the floor is filled with an assembly leveling mixture (sand and polymer self-leveling mixture in a ratio of 1: 2). A trowel is used to apply the mixture.

If the difference exceeds 2.5 cm, then you will need to fill the surface with a correcting mixture (sand with cement in a ratio of 2: 1).

Note! In both cases, instead of building mixtures, you can use a special leveling mortar designed for this thickness.

Stage 3. Materials and tools

After preparing the surface, you need to take care of everything you need. To work you will need:

polymer leveling mixture;
deep penetration primer mixture;
putty knife;
building level;
squeegee;
electric drill with mixer attachment;
needle roller;
container for solution preparation.

Stage 4. Priming

It is best to use a roller to apply the primer coat. If the surface is porous, then the primer is applied in several layers and after each of them a short pause is made to dry the mixture.

Here are the basic functions of priming:

improving the spreading of the polymer composition;
improved adhesion to the base;
preventing the appearance of air bubbles.

If the floor will be poured in several layers, then the primer must be applied in front of each of them.

Note! In a room with a high level of humidity, the primer layer is covered with a waterproof compound.

You also need to remember that primer compounds are toxic, so you should take care of high-quality ventilation of the room in advance. Moreover, the temperature should not be allowed to drop - if it drops below +15? C, then the adhesion efficiency of the primer will noticeably deteriorate.

It takes at least 24 hours for the primed surface to dry completely.

Step 5. Thermal compensation

One of the most important elements of a flooded floor is a thermal expansion joint, which should be applied around the entire perimeter of the room. For this, wooden slats are taken (necessarily from hardwood). These seams will prevent the floor from deforming in case of significant temperature changes.

Stage 6. Preparation of the solution

The preparation of the solution must be taken seriously, since the poor quality of the filling will hopelessly ruin the polymer coating. It is characteristic that after preparation, the solution must be poured as quickly as possible, because it hardens after a few minutes.

Note! The humidity in the room during filling should be no more than 70%, otherwise moisture will condense on the surface.

All components are poured into the container in the ratio specified in the instructions for the polymer mixture. To avoid heating the solution too quickly, the container can be placed in another, larger one, filled with cold water.

All components are mixed with an electric drill operating at low speeds (no more than 400 rpm) until a homogeneous mass is obtained. To determine the readiness of the solution, you can use one simple method:

A small ring is cut from the deodorant cover and placed on a flat surface (for example, a piece of sheet steel);
the ring is filled with a solution and lifted;
with a uniform spreading of the solution into a spot with a diameter of 3 cm, you can start pouring.

Note! If the mixture is too thick, then it will not be able to level out qualitatively, and if it is too liquid, then you will need to add a little more dry polymer.

Stage 7. Filling the polymer floor

Do-it-yourself polymer floors are poured in the same way as ordinary self-leveling ones.

Step 1. The first portion of the mortar is poured along the wall farthest from the entrance with a strip 45 cm wide. Then, for better distribution, the mortar is leveled with a spatula.

Note! The whole room is filled immediately, otherwise there will be drops.

Step 2. After leveling, the surface is rolled with a needle roller to remove air.

Step 3. After that, a new strip of solution is poured and leveled. The procedure is repeated until the entire room is filled.

Step 4. After 48 hours after pouring, a polyurethane coating is applied. For the entire drying period, the floor must be protected from the sun, drafts and temperature fluctuations.

Note! If a "warm floor" is used to heat the room, then the first start of heating can be carried out only seven days after pouring. In this case, you need to start at room temperature, gradually increasing it - by about 2-3 ° C per day.

Also read the article on our website - do-it-yourself jellied floor.

There are two ways to create a decorative layer:

place the finished image in advance;
make a drawing on the floor.

In the first case, you will need acrylic paints that are resistant to prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation. This is an easier and cheaper way, since today you can buy your favorite image as a printout on a plotter (in this case, a banner fabric is taken as a basis). During the arrangement, the fabric is covered with a thermal insulating vinyl film to increase its operational life.

The dimensions of the image should be larger than the dimensions of the room, because it is always easier to cut the fabric than to apply it.

Video - 3D Floors

The technology for creating 3D images is as follows.

Step 1. First, the base is carefully primed. For this, the same leveling solution is used, but diluted with water just enough so that its concentration is halved. It will take 24 hours for the primer to cure.

Step 2. The image is glued onto a primer and rolled with a dry clean roller. It is characteristic that in this case it is possible to move on the floor only in special spiked shoes.

Step 3. A transparent polymer layer 4-5 mm thick is applied. This is the same as described above. After half an hour, the fill dries up and can be treated with transparent varnish.

The complete readiness of the polymer floor for use is determined by the drying of the varnish.

Video - Pouring polymer floors

They are widely used in modern industrial and civil construction. According to their characteristics, they have proven themselves well as environmentally friendly, dust-free, shock-resistant and sound-insulating coatings.

According to the composition of the components included in the bulk antistatic polymer floors, they are divided into polyurethane and epoxy. The former are based on polyurethane and methyl methaacryl. The curing of the coating occurs under the influence of air.

The latter are based on a two-component epoxy resin. Polymerization of such a coating occurs when a hardener is added to the mixture.

Since these coatings were developed for industrial use and are resistant to high loads, when they are used in an apartment and a private house, the difference between them is practically not noticeable.

The difference is not significant, but there is. Epoxy self-leveling floors are more resistant to abrasion and impact (when the tool falls). But polyurethane coatings dampen vibration well and reduce noise (during machine operation).

Based on this, it is possible to offer polymer floors in an apartment or house according to the following principle:

entrance hall - polymer epoxy floors (there is a high content of sand from shoes);
kitchen - epoxy floors (high probability of falling heavy objects);
bathroom and toilet - epoxy floors;
bedrooms and living rooms - polyurethane floors (increased sound insulation of premises).

The technology for laying self-leveling polymer floors is quite simple. Even a schoolchild can master it. Therefore, it will not be difficult for a home craftsman to lay a self-leveling polymer floor with his own hands.

When performing work, he will need a maximum of one assistant. However, it is important to remember that no matter how simple the operations for the installation of the self-leveling floor are, they need to be approached responsibly. Especially if you are planning to install self-leveling 3D floors.

Self-leveling 3D floors are the same epoxy or polyurethane floors, on the surface of which a volumetric drawing, a finished photograph or a reproduction of a painting is applied. From above, such a floor is covered with a protective transparent layer (varnish).

Let's consider in detail how to properly fill the self-leveling floor. More precisely, below there will be instructions on what to do and how.

How does a renovation in an apartment or house begin? Of course, with planning, calculating materials and your budget. When you have decided which floors you will use, you can start calculating.

Choosing (epoxy or polyurethane) self-leveling floor how to calculate the amount of material for its device will not be difficult. They are sold in sets. The composition of the self-leveling floor may include various fillers (quartz dust, marble chips, dyes, etc.)

The choice of color and filler is up to you. An instruction is attached to the kit, which indicates which layer and for what area it is consumed. On average, 1 square meter of the base of the floor is 1 liter of the mixture with a layer thickness of 1 mm.

How to calculate material for self-leveling floor

The specific gravity of 1 liter of the substance is approximately 1.3 kg. For a room of 16 square meters, you will need 16 x 1.3 = 20.8 kg of the mixture. For polyurethane floors, the specific gravity is 1.25-1.33kg / l. For epoxy floors 1.4-1.5 kg / l.

Sets of self-leveling polymer floors from different manufacturers may differ in weight. On average, 1 set weighs —— and its consumption is 20 square meters with a layer thickness of 3 mm.

Damper tape to compensate for the expansion of the floor when it heats up. It fits along the entire perimeter, where the floor is in contact with the walls.

You can do without it, but for this you need to arrange a special expansion joint in the walls. It will be described below.

Instruments

Tool for polymer floors:

electric drill with low speed and mixing attachment;
container for mixing components (plastic bucket);
household scales (for weighing fillers);
angle grinder (grinder);
vacuum cleaner;
wide spatula (notched);
cloth roller;
needle roller (squeegee for);
paint shoes (have needle soles and are worn on shoes).

After you have prepared everything you need, you can get to work. Important! Before laying the self-leveling floor, the instructions attached to the set of materials should be carefully studied by you.

How to properly fill the self-leveling floor

Polymer floors are laid only on a pre-leveled and prepared subfloor surface. If the screed has cracks and chips, they must be sealed with cement mortar or waterproofing mastic.

You can also process the joints of the floor and walls around the perimeter with mastic. If the base of the floor has critical drops, then it must be leveled. Self-leveling self-leveling floors are ideal for this.

If the surface of the original cement-sand screed is even, then it must be processed with an angle grinder (grinder). This will remove fragile elements and roughen (sand) the surface for strong adhesion of the self-leveling floor and the base (screed). If you do not want to use a damper tape, then along the perimeter of the room (in the places where the floor joins the walls), the grinder makes an incision parallel to the floor and up to 5mm deep and equal to the layer to be poured.

This gap compensates for thermal expansion of the floor and prevents cracks from appearing. Otherwise, lay damping tape around the perimeter. After pouring the floor, you can cut it off with a knife and close the joint with a plinth.

After cleaning, remove all debris from the surface and thoroughly vacuum the subfloor. Dust is the main enemy of self-leveling floors. If there are grease or oil stains, they must be degreased with a solvent.

A primer is applied to the prepared surface. Manufacturers of self-leveling polymer floors produce polyurethane-based primers. They can be supplied in a set of self-leveling floors.

In their absence, the solution can be prepared by yourself. The primer will be a mixture of 20-30% of the base material of the self-leveling floor and a solvent (acetone, solvent, xylene, etc.).

The primer is mixed in a container with a drill with a nozzle at low speed. This will prevent bubbles from forming. Mix for 3-4 minutes. After that, the primer is poured onto the floor and stretched evenly over the surface with a flat trowel.

The applied layer of primer is rolled with a needle roller to remove their mixture of air bubbles. Paint shoes should be worn on your feet. Apply a second coat if necessary.

After applying the primer, it should dry well. Remember! Do not make large technological gaps between priming and application of the base coat.

As a rule, the drying time of the composition is indicated on the container with the primer composition. For epoxy floors, complete drying time is 12-18 hours. For polyurethane: 6-12 hours.

When priming is performed, the room must be well ventilated. The use of open flames is prohibited.

After the primer has dried, the base coat can be applied. Preparation of the mixture requires careful preliminary study of the instructions.

Open the container with the base layer (liquid A) and, using a drill with a nozzle at low speed, stir the liquid for 3-5 minutes. Add the hardener (liquid B) to the center of the container with liquid A. Using the drill again, stir for 3-5 minutes.

Avoid air bubbles. Add fillers (quartz sand, colorants) while stirring. When the mixture is ready, it is ready for styling.

Work starts from the far wall. From the container, the mixture is poured along the wall in parallel strips and, using a spatula (notched trowel), is evenly leveled over the surface. Then the next portion of the mixture is poured.

When the mixture is spread over the floor, it must be rolled with a needle roller. It will remove air bubbles from the base coat. If this is not done, the floor will be weakened and may crack.

After the last procedure, the floor is ready and takes time to dry and cure.

After 24 hours, you can walk on the floor carefully. Full polymerization will occur in 7 days and the self-leveling floor is finished.
To increase the durability of the polymer floor, a protective varnish can be applied to its surface. If you first apply a decorative volumetric drawing or photograph to it, you will get wonderful, exclusive 3d floors.

Step 3 describes the sequence for an epoxy floor. However, it differs from the sequence of laying the polyurethane floor only in the preparation of the solution.

There the solvent supplied in the kit plays the role of a hardener. The term of execution of works on pouring a polyurethane floor after mixing with a solvent is limited to 30 minutes.

Self-leveling polymer floors are also called "liquid linoleum" - they are so comfortable to use. This is a new word in interior design and a godsend for industrial premises. They give any décor an extra visual dimension with their soft sheen and seamless surface. Minimal shrinkage, high elasticity and modern aesthetics - these are the qualities thanks to which polymer floors are gaining more and more popularity in the CIS countries, and abroad they have been on the market for a long time at number one.

Polymer flooring: fashion or practicality?

There are many types of polymer flooring today: for every taste, style and idea. And according to their composition, they are divided into:

Polyurethane. The floor has a good performance and can be laid independently both in a technical room and in a residential building.
Epoxy-urethane. Such a coating is especially resistant to abrasion and is indispensable for significant pedestrian and transport loads: workshops, corridors and warehouses. True, the price is quite high.
Methyl methacrylate. When laying such a floor, it is necessary to very strictly observe the process technology, but after 2 hours after drying, you can walk on it. It is frost-hardy, and perfectly tolerates any bad weather in the open air.
Cement-polyurethane coatings are mainly used to create floors with heavy use: high temperatures, exposure to aggressive chemicals and live steam. It is such a floor that most effectively protects the concrete base from destruction, which is why they are most often ordered for car service premises.

Of course, epoxy and polyurethane floors are more popular today due to their coating thickness: from 0.5 mm to 6 mm. Let's compare these two types of sex. So, epoxy ones are much harder, they are cheaper, but they are laid in a layer up to 5 mm, while polyurethane is enough 3 mm. And polyurethane floors are more scratch resistant than epoxy ones.

Self-leveling floor: we reveal the secrets of technology

So what is a polymer floor? All the compounds that are used today are divided by experts into two main groups: polymer and mineral. The latter are a mixture of cement, modifiers and fillers, on which the rate of filling the mixture depends. These are self-leveling floors that easily form a flat finish due to their low cohesion. Polymer floors are used as a continuous topcoat, which may depend on the mixture itself and the fillers.

A self-leveling polymer floor is made by modern manufacturers from epoxy resins or polyurethane. Initially, this beauty was used only in industrial workshops, but apartment residents also like the dustlessness, the absence of floor seams and the possibility of its unlimited decoration.

For a bathroom, a polymer floor is an ideal option. Due to the absence of seams, moisture will not penetrate under it, and to the touch this coating is as pleasant and warm as linoleum, only not so soft. Another significant plus for the bathroom: polymer floors are not prone to mold or mildew.

Interestingly, even the most glossy at first glance, self-leveling floors still have a valuable anti-slip property. That is why today, even in swimming pools, tiles are being abandoned, replacing them with colored and fashionable polymer floors. And recently, they want to see such floors in the bedroom, and in the nursery, and even in the office. After all, polymers have simply amazing qualities, and, due to the fact that they are the main components of a self-leveling floor, any design idea now has the right to life.

Even stunning 3D effects, for which airbrush artists are often invited today, for whom it is enough to add a few additional touches to the same fish under water to make them seem bright and alive.

Coating specifications

To the touch, such a floor is warmer than a tile and even softer than linoleum, and it can be easily combined with a floor heating system. Plus a lot of nice benefits:

High wear resistance;
Lack of traumatic sliding;
Resistance to aggressive household chemicals;
Absolute environmental friendliness - all components of the solution are non-toxic;
Perfectly flat surface for any subsequent finishing;
Hygiene and easy cleaning;
The ability to apply any image;
Fire safety and high level of waterproofing;
Complete absence of seams and joints, where bacteria and dirt do not collect;
And polymer floors are so resistant to low temperatures that they are even used as a base for large freezers.

The resistance of the bulk polymer floor to the effects of temperature is amazing: it will not lose its properties in the range from -60 ° C to + 90 ° C. And even on the verge of these values, the floor will neither ignite, nor smoke, nor release any toxins. And all because polymers meet international standards.

And yet, unlike, these floors never emit dust or life-threatening compounds. In addition, interesting images are also applied on them: 3D pictures, small details and much more. We can say that polymer floors are a real field for the imagination of modern designers.

But polymer floors have some disadvantages that you should know:

Quite a large amount of work and the deadline for its completion
The high cost of the materials used
High cost per quote if you hire a construction crew

And also take into account this in advance: if you ever want to change the floor covering, then it will be extremely difficult to peel off the self-leveling floor - it is much easier to fill it with a new layer or simply by laying the same or. In general, that's all the disadvantages.

What does the market offer?

Self-leveling floors have a wide range of colors and patterns - much wider than even tiles. Prices for polymer coatings are quite different: they depend on the design, the polymers used and the brand. Also, with a strong mechanical effect on the floor in the room, they prefer the polyurethane version, since the epic ones are less elastic. But for a constant static load - just right.

As for the brand, so far the best reviews can be heard about the Gipcreet Thermafloor filling field. It is a lightweight polymer mortar that never cracks. The brand of self-leveling floor "Elakor PU" is no less popular today. This mixture has a good hardener and color base, which are mixed right before use. As a result, the floor is resistant to stress, moisture and active use of chemicals.

You can also hear good reviews about Praspan and Proplan, SIKA and Hyperdesmo. And for the most complex projects, RINOL is more often chosen - an Italian company that is today considered the world leader in self-leveling coating systems. Such floors are not interchangeable for those premises where special or increased requirements are imposed:

Parking lots;
Operating rooms;
Supermarkets;
Public spaces;
Transformer substations.

The environmental friendliness, durability and UV resistance of the final coating really depend on the quality of the materials used. If you hire a team to fill a polymer floor, it will not be superfluous to ask them about the availability of certificates.

It is not the polymer floor itself that is expensive, but its installation. Construction companies really often inflate prices for such services, which they themselves often admit to. That is why, if you learn how to fill such a coating yourself, then a modern self-leveling floor will not become a luxury for you, but an excellent option for renovating your home. And over time, thanks to its impressive service life, the polymer floor will pay off at least twice.

Do-it-yourself pouring - how realistic is it?

Absolutely real. After all, the self-leveling floor adheres tightly to any base: tiles, concrete and even wood. The main thing is that it should be clean, dry, even and fat-free. In total, the moisture content of the base should not exceed 5%.

So, after you put the mixture on the floor, it will spread itself and take on a perfectly horizontal level. Your only task is to prevent air bubbles from appearing anywhere - and for this, a spiked roller is used.

And you can place any items for creation just at the finishing stage: we spread it on a thin layer of polymer varnish and fill it all over again.

How to care for a self-leveling floor?

And, finally, it is not difficult to take care of the self-leveling floor -. Periodic it needs to be updated, covering it with a protective varnish, and the rest of the time, wet or dry cleaning is enough.

Polymer self-leveling floors are washed with special household chemicals with a high acid content. It should be applied to the floor surface for five to ten minutes, then thoroughly clean off the remaining polish and rinse the coating well using as much water as possible. This is usually done using a special technique, but you can do it yourself. If there are tire stains or other difficult dirt on the floor, then these places are covered with a deep cleaning detergent for five minutes, and then cleaned off.

In industrial premises, where there is a particularly strong mechanical load on the floor, dirt gets clogged into microcracks invisible to the eye, and the coating becomes a little dull. Then modern high-pressure washing units are used, which easily knock out all the dirt and the renewed floor is varnished.

If a self-leveling polymer floor in the future will often be washed with aggressive chemicals (for example, in medical institutions), then it is protected from damage even at the stage of pouring - by covering it with a special protective polish using a monomial. And this polish needs to be updated every six months.

Also remember that polymer coatings are not designed for prolonged exposure to alkalis or acids of high concentration - and therefore, detergents cannot be left on the surface for a long time. And one more tip: it is advisable to install rubber pads on the legs of furniture or work equipment - this way the floor will last longer.

So why, given the relative low cost of the material and the completely understandable laying technology, they take so much for such work? It's just that for our country, such floors are to some extent still a novelty, but it is always good to make money on new products. Try to do it yourself - the next step is to replace the floors in absolutely all other rooms!

A self-leveling polymer floor is the most common type of polyurethane and epoxy coatings, characterized by increased decorative properties.

Types of self-leveling floors	Characteristics of self-leveling floors	Application
Thin-layer floors	thickness 250-300 microns	Thin-layer coatings are used for industrial floors exposed to medium mechanical stress, protection of concrete floors from aggressive environments and dust, giving a decorative appearance
	thickness up to 4-5 mm, filling with sand by weight up to 50%	Self-leveling self-leveling floors are suitable in rooms with medium and high mechanical loads, where special, increased requirements are imposed on the floors. Such floors have a smooth surface (glossy or matte) with dirt-repellent properties, decorative, hygienic, easy to maintain, maintainable
Highly filled floors	thickness - 4-8 mm, filling with sand by weight - up to 85%	Highly filled floors are suitable for environments with high humidity and extreme temperature conditions. These floors are particularly shock and wear resistant. In terms of properties, they are close to polymer concrete.
Bulk colorless epoxy	Density 1.10. The ratio A: B is 100: 60. Life time 35 min Dry residue 100%.	A two-component, solvent-free, colorless epoxy system for high-strength decorative topcoats.
Universal epoxy pouring compound	Density 1.50. The ratio A: B is 100: 10. Life time is 25 minutes. Min. application temperature +10. Dry residue 100%.	Two-component painted epoxy for leveling and finishing polymeric coatings on concrete, both under other ESP® coatings and as a stand-alone coating.
Conductive epoxy filler	Density 1.65. Ratio A: B -100: 10. Life time is 20 minutes. Min. application temperature +10. Dry residue 100%.	Installation of conductive protective coatings on concrete foundations in warehouse, production, assembly and other premises with requirements for electrical conductivity.
Polyurethane floor	Density 1.45. The ratio A: B is 100: 20. Life time 30 minutes. Min. application temperature +10. Dry residue 100%.	These coatings, which are based on a hetero-chain polymer, are rigid-elastic, that is, with high mechanical strength, they have a sufficient elastic resource. They arrange a polyurethane floor covering in a wide variety of premises - industrial and industrial, residential and public, in children's and educational institutions, in parking lots and in freezers, etc. In terms of layer thickness, the polyurethane floor can be thin-layer (up to 1 mm), self-leveling or quartz-filled, with increased resistance to abrasion and shock loads. Various special properties (anti-static, anti-slip) can be imparted to the polyurethane coating.

Among other advantages of polymer floors, it is worth highlighting:

wear resistance;
dustlessness;
immunity to aggressive chemical compounds;
a wide range of colors - the coating can be both colored and transparent;
lack of smell when styling;
the ability to apply 3D drawings.

Note! The quasi-three-dimensional image is made possible by the decorative polyurethane component. In such cases, the floor is poured in two stages - first, the polymer mixture is poured, then, after it dries, a topcoat is applied (more on this at the end of the article).

Stage 1. Preparation

Arrangement of a self-leveling polymer floor begins with preparatory work.

Wooden base

Step 1. First, the room is cleaned of debris and dust, furniture is taken out, decorative elements are dismantled (such as skirting boards, cornices).

If there are no difficulties with the disposal of solvent residues, a surfactant or KM alkali solution can be added. Although today you can buy special means for degreasing wood (for example, Mellerud), which in parallel protect the surface from fungal formation.

Step 4. The moisture content of the floor is estimated using a moisture meter. It should not exceed 10%, otherwise the polymer filling will be of poor quality.

A concrete floor is prepared for pouring in a slightly different way.

Concrete floor moisture meter

Moreover, in case of poor-quality insulation, moisture will rise through the capillaries in the concrete coating to the polymer layer and sooner or later will destroy it.

Note! Otherwise, the preparatory measures for a concrete base are practically no different from those for a wooden base.

After that, the surface is degreased.

Stage 2. Level difference

If the difference exceeds 2.5 cm, then you will need to fill the surface with a correcting mixture (sand with cement in a ratio of 2: 1).

Note! In both cases, instead of mortars, a special leveling mortar suitable for this thickness can be used.

Stage 3. Materials and tools

After preparing the surface, you need to take care of everything you need. To work you will need:

polymer leveling mixture;
deep penetration primer mixture;
putty knife;
building level;
squeegee;
electric drill with mixer attachment;
needle roller;
container for solution preparation.

Stage 4. Priming

It is best to use a roller to apply the primer coat. If the surface is porous, then the primer is applied in several layers and after each of them a short pause is made to dry the mixture.

Here are the basic functions of priming:

improving the spreading of the polymer composition;
improved adhesion to the base;
preventing the appearance of air bubbles.

If the floor will be poured in several layers, then the primer must be applied in front of each of them.

Note! In a room with a high level of humidity, the primer layer is covered with a waterproof compound.

You also need to remember that primer compounds are toxic, so you should take care of high-quality ventilation of the room in advance. Moreover, the temperature should not be allowed to drop - if it drops below + 15ᵒС, then the adhesion efficiency of the primer will noticeably deteriorate.

It takes at least 24 hours for the primed surface to dry completely.

Step 5. Thermal compensation

One of the most important elements of a cast floor is a temperature-compensated joint, which should be applied around the entire perimeter of the room. For this, wooden slats are taken (necessarily from hardwood). These seams will prevent the floor from deforming in case of significant temperature changes.

Stage 6. Preparation of the solution

Note! The humidity in the room during filling should be no more than 70%, otherwise moisture will condense on the surface.

A small ring is cut from the deodorant cover and placed on a flat surface (for example, a piece of sheet steel);
the ring is filled with a solution and lifted;
with a uniform spreading of the solution into a spot with a diameter of 3 cm, you can start pouring.

Note! If the mixture is too thick, then it will not be able to level out qualitatively, and if it is too liquid, then you will need to add a little more dry polymer.

Stage 7. Filling the polymer floor

Do-it-yourself polymer floors are poured in the same way as ordinary self-leveling ones.

Step 1. The first portion of the mortar is poured along the wall farthest from the entrance with a strip 45 cm wide. Then, for better distribution, the mortar is leveled with a spatula.

Note! The whole room is filled immediately, otherwise there will be drops.

Step 2. After leveling, the surface is rolled with a needle roller to remove air.

Step 3. After that, a new strip of solution is poured and leveled. The procedure is repeated until the entire room is filled.

Step 4. After 48 hours after pouring, a polyurethane coating is applied. For the entire drying period, the floor must be protected from the sun, drafts and temperature fluctuations.

Also read the article on our website - do-it-yourself jellied floor.

There are two ways to create a decorative layer:

place the finished image in advance;
make a drawing on the floor.

The dimensions of the image should be larger than the dimensions of the room, because it is always easier to cut the fabric than to apply it.

Video -

The technology for creating 3D images is as follows.

Step 2. The image is glued onto a primer and rolled with a dry clean roller. It is characteristic that in this case it is possible to move on the floor only in special spiked shoes.

Step 3. A transparent polymer layer 4-5 mm thick is applied. This is the same as described above. After half an hour, the fill dries up and can be treated with transparent varnish.

The complete readiness of the polymer floor for use is determined by the drying of the varnish.