How to insert a door into a log cabin. Pit in a log house - we make a window and doorway in the wall

From time immemorial, houses and various courtyard buildings were built from wood. This is primarily due to the fact that wood was the most affordable building material.

Today the situation has changed. Now, not everyone has the opportunity to build a house or a bathhouse from round timber or timber. If such a chance still falls, then the construction must be approached with all responsibility and take into account a lot of nuances, paying attention to the smallest details.

For example, an important aspect is the installation of a door in a log house. At first glance, there is nothing complicated in carrying out such work, but it is not.

Failure to follow the installation rules will lead to the fact that over time the door will no longer close well.

Features and nuances of installing doors in a log house

The first thing you need to know in order to properly make a door in a log house is the presence of solid logs or beams in the opening (depending on the material chosen).

Quite often, in order to save material, openings for windows and doors are cut out in advance. This reduces the amount of waste. But at the same time, extrusion of crowns can occur. Correcting such an oversight will be very difficult.

Mounting front door in a log house should be carried out no earlier than 6 months from the date of completion of the construction of walls and installation of the roof. During this period of time, the house will give a draft, which will allow the installation of a door in a log house without fear of negative consequences.

A log cabin gives a full draft in 6 years. Settlement rates depend on many factors, such as how wet the beam is or on what soil the building is erected. It should be noted that the amount of precipitation ranges from 5 to 7 centimeters, moreover, the main part of this process is carried out in the first year.

Draft is the main factor to consider when installing a door. If you forget about similar feature wooden log cabins, then the doorway may warp and it will be impossible to install a normally functioning door in it.

There are two ways to install a door in a log house:

the first method is the installation of a siege beam;
the second is the installation of casing.

It should be noted that special attention should be paid to the installation door structure in rooms with high humidity. The bath is largely distinguished by such characteristics.

What tools are needed for installation

When deciding how to make a doorway and insert a door, you first need to decide on the tools necessary for this work. They must be at hand at all times. This will allow you to complete the installation as quickly as possible. To carry out the work you will need:

chainsaw or electric saw with tire;
a hammer;
perforator;
circular or manual milling machine;
chisel;
construction measuring instruments: level (preferably laser), tape measure and square.

As a rule, the search for tools will not take much time, because all of them, one way or another, were used during the installation of the log house. Having prepared everything you need and figured out how to properly install the door, you can begin to work.

Method N 1. Installing doors by mounting a special casing bar

The procedure for carrying out work through the installation of a special casing bar is as follows:

The first step is to cut an opening designed to install the door frame. It must be sawn in such a way that half of the log or timber remains on top and bottom.
Next, using a cutter at the end of the opening, you need to cut a groove measuring at least 50 × 50 millimeters. You can use a chisel to adjust the groove size.
A beam is inserted into the resulting opening. It is necessary to take into account its length. If the log house is new, then the size of the timber should be 5 centimeters smaller. If the structure has already shrunk, then the length of the timber should be less than 2 centimeters.

In some cases, the beam needs to be strengthened. This can be done using a board with a thickness of at least 50 millimeters, while its width should not be less than the dimensional index of the wall.

Sometimes, instead of timber, metal channels of appropriate sizes are used. Additional reinforcement of the opening is relevant in the construction of heavy structures, such as two-story buildings.

After the bars are fixed in the side parts of the opening, a threshold should be made. For achievement maximum strength a bar with a thickness of at least 10 centimeters is used, which must be cut in a T-shape.

Method N 2. Circular casing from a bar

The installation of doors in the log house in the second way can also be done by hand. The principle of its implementation is not much different from the first. All that needs to be done is to install the blank under the box, following the rules mentioned above.

In other words, it is necessary to install bars around the entire perimeter of the opening. They can be attached to each other in several ways:

In addition, the possibility of mounting the casing without the use of fasteners is allowed. To do this, you need to fit the bars to each other as tightly as possible.

It should be noted that in most cases the construction of log cabins is carried out according to this principle. Pressure created by weight building materials, is quite sufficient for the stability of the structure. The bars must be installed by surprise.

Features of installing a door structure

If you need to install wooden doors, then the installation of the box is not required, the casing system will play its role. An exception may be the situation when lining made of wood is used as a finishing material. Then the box is planted on mounting foam.

After installation, the box is closed with platbands. In case of severe shrinkage, they can be replaced with new ones or simply reinstalled by adjusting the dimensions.

If you plan to install metal door, then the casing is done a little differently. Its upper part can not be installed. Instead, you need to leave a gap that allows precipitation to occur in a natural way.

The main advantage of a metal door is durability. Its box is able to withstand the pressure of wood during shrinkage without any consequences.

When cutting an opening, a number of recommendations should be taken into account:

firstly, its height should be 150 millimeters more than the door;
secondly, the width of the opening should be 100–120 millimeters larger than the box (if its installation is necessary).

The above requirements are relevant and if necessary, install a window. Casing must be carried out in any case, even if the opening cut in the log house is small.

When carrying out the above works, the possibility of the formation of cold bridges should be taken into account. To avoid this, it is necessary to use heat-insulating materials, for example, those with which the wall was insulated.

In other words, cracks and gaps formed during the installation process can be sealed with tow, mounting foam and other materials with similar functions.

It is preferable to use mounting foam, because it not only prevents the occurrence of drafts, but also gives strength to the structure. It is, however, much easier to use.

Installing a door in a log house with your own hands: ways to saw through a doorway in a bath

Installation of the entrance door in the log cabin of the bath should be carried out no earlier than 6 months from the date of completion of the construction of the walls and installation of the roof. This will allow you to install the door without fear of shrinkage.

How to install a door in a log house

Features of doorways in a log house

How to insert a casing

How to put a door in the casing

Installation of doors in a log house

Entrance door to the bath

Before proceeding with the installation of the door, you should decide on its design. What are the doors, we have already discussed in this article. You can choose any that suits you in terms of reliability and cost.

Special attention should be given to the front door. It is she who is most affected natural phenomena in the form of rain, snow, winter frost and summer heat, and also perceives the resulting stresses due to a significant temperature difference inside and outside the bath.

You can see the installation of the front door in this way in the video below (click on the triangle to play):

This option is well suited for installing a lightweight panel door made of tongue and groove boards. But if you need to put a heavier door (for example, a metal one), then the pigtail will have to be made more reliable - U-shaped.

Before installation, you need to determine the required size of the doorway. Its width will be equal to the width of the door itself, plus the thickness of the door frame on each side, plus the thickness of the pigtail (about 50 mm). You can also leave 3 centimeters on each side if you foam the door frame.

For marking, a construction plumb line and a level are used:

Attention!

5 - groove marking

7 - box strapping

How to make a door to the bath? Do-it-yourself installation of doors in a log house

How to properly insert the door into wooden frame? How to put a pigtail? How to install a wooden door to the bath? Secrets and tips!

How to properly install a door in a log house

Installation of doors in a log house

It is difficult to imagine a bathhouse without windows and doors. These are as important elements of it as the stove, walls and roof. However, installing doors in a log house made of logs or timber is somewhat different from installing doors in a brick bath.

The main feature of the log house is the inconsistency of its geometric dimensions in the first two or three years. During this time, shrinkage and shrinkage occur, which leads to a gradual decrease in the height of the walls.

After shrinkage has occurred and the logs have dried out properly, they make a log house caulk. This again leads to an increase in the height of the walls. It is clear that if immediately after the construction of a wooden bath you insert doors, then, in best case, after a while you will not be able to open them, at worst - they will be destroyed by the vertical load of the settling log crowns.

What to do? Leave a bathhouse without doors for two years?

Of course not. There is a simple solution, which we will discuss with you in this article.

Entrance door to the bath

Before proceeding with the installation of the door, you should decide on its design. What are the doors, we have already discussed in the article The door for the bath. You can choose any design that suits you in terms of its complexity, reliability and cost.

Great attention should be paid to the front door. It is this door that is most exposed to natural phenomena in the form of rain, snow, winter frost and summer heat, and also perceives the stresses that arise due to a significant temperature difference inside and outside the bath.

Having decided on the design of the front door, you can start assembling it or buying and installing it in a log house.

How are bathroom doors installed?

In one of the previous publications, we have already considered the process of installing a window in a log house. Installing doors is not much different from installing windows.

The door frame is mounted in a pigtail (salary, casing), which allows it to move within the doorway during the shrinkage of the log house.

What is a pigtail (salary, casing)?

An okosyachka or salary is a special design used for mounting windows and doors in a log house. This design consists of two bars connected on top by a board.

The simplest version of the pigtail is a selection of a 50x50 groove at the ends of the logs of the doorway, into which the same 50x50 bars are inserted, and a door frame is attached to them, above which a clearance is left to the log passing over the box, 6-8 cm for log house shrinkage. The lumen is filled with insulation and closed with a platband.

This option is well suited for installing a lightweight panel door made of tongue and groove boards. But if you need to put in a door of a heavier structure (for example, a metal door), then the pigtail will have to be made in a more reliable U-shaped form.

Installation of doors in a log house using a U-shaped pigtail (salary, casing)

Before installing the door, you need to determine the size of the doorway. The width of the opening will be equal to the width of the door, plus the thickness of the door frame on each side, plus the thickness of the pigtail (about 50 mm). You can also leave 3 centimeters on each side if you foam the door frame.

Having determined the required dimensions of the doorway, you can proceed to the markup. For marking use a plumb line and a level.

After marking, the opening is sawn with a chainsaw.

For installation of a pigtail (salary), at the ends of the logs on each side of the doorway, a spike 50x50 is formed in the form of a vertical ridge for the entire height of the opening. A pigtail with a groove of the same size will be mounted on it.

From above and from below, the jambs of the casing are unfastened into a thrust with a beam, which has a groove on the end sides according to the size of the protrusions in the upper and lower parts of the side posts (jambs).

With a sufficient thickness of the beam used for the construction of the pigtail, its design is very strong, which makes it possible to keep the walls adjacent to the opening from moving the logs.

The pigtail should not be attached to the logs. It must be able to move in the doorway.

A door frame with a door is mounted in the pigtail.

The figure below shows the casing mount in its upper part:

The numbers in the figures indicate:

5 - groove marking

7 - box strapping

8 - spike on the ends of the logs (comb)

Installation internal doors in the bath

Installation of doors in indoor areas baths are no different from installation in the log house of the front door.

Openings are also marked, surrounded by a casing (pigtail), into which a door frame with a door is then mounted.

The choice of internal doors is now very large and you can choose not only wooden panel doors, but also beautiful modern doors from special glass.

Now you know, how to make bathroom doors. In the following articles, we will learn how to install a door in a brick wall.

One of the most popular types of doors are paneled doors. Due to the simplicity of design and beautiful appearance this type of doors is often chosen as interior and entrance doors. They are made of various materials, so will not amount to Read.

Despite the fact that each bath has windows, the lighting that penetrates through them is not always enough to comfortably take a steam bath and wash. Especially if you decide to go to the bath in the evening or in cloudy weather. Therefore, often in Read.

In a previous publication, we examined in detail the issue of finding water on the site to determine the location of the well. As you now know, you can determine the exit of a water vein to the surface different ways- from folk signs and dowsing, before trial Read.

How to install a door in a log house

A log house is the most common version of a suburban structure in middle and high latitudes. This is due to the characteristics of the material, which is characterized by a uniquely low thermal conductivity and provides warmth and a healthy oxygenated atmosphere even in the most severe winters. A log house is alive, “breathes”, changes in accordance with the seasons, and despite the abundance of building materials on the market, only wood can create such a level of comfort and coziness.

We install the door in the log house

Peculiarities doorways in a log house

However, precisely because of the ability of wood to change, equipping a log house with doors and windows is not an easy task. Modern designs – door block, plastic window, require rigid fixation and a snug fit of the elements to the slopes of the walls. But it is in the log house that the walls give serious shrinkage - up to 1 cm per year, which does not allow the use of conventional installation methods.

Exactly the same difficulties are encountered and, if necessary, to install the doors to the bath. However, as a rule, a wooden door block is mounted in the bath extension, and from the same wood that was used for the construction, and this greatly simplifies the task. The entrance door to a residential log house requires sufficient strength and reliability, which wooden door cannot provide.

The problem is solved with the help of a casing box - a structure made of thick wooden planks taking into account the possibility of vertical displacement. This method provides, on the one hand, a fairly tight fastening, and on the other hand, due to the tolerance created, it prevents deformation and damage to products under the action of the log mass.

In any case, install the door in log house is possible only a year after its construction, when the most active stage of shrinkage is completed.

How to insert a casing

There are three most common ways to assemble the casing. The choice depends on the financial capabilities or the amount of time the owner is ready to install the door with his own hands.

Casing box with an end spike - casing is installed in a ready-made doorway on the spot, it is not necessary to fasten the structure in advance. The width of the board should be equal to the depth of the opening.

It is understood that the construction of the opening was carried out with the expectation to use casing on spikes - its width should take into account the presence of a spike. The latter is cut along both vertical slopes.
In the side posts of the casing, a groove is made corresponding to the size of the spike.
The spike is covered with an interventional sealant, then a side board is attached to it,
a horizontal jumper is installed, and then the second side board. The crossbar serves as a spacer for the sidewalls. There is a gap of at least 5-7 cm between the upper crossbar and the log house for wall shrinkage.

Casing on a mortgage beam - involves installation on the so-called sliding bars. For the latter, bars with a section of 5 * 5 cm are used.

In the slopes of the opening, a vertical groove is made according to the size of the board.
The bars are installed. Previously, it is recommended to lay heat-insulating material in the groove, for example, tow.
The assembled casing frame should be inserted between the sliding bars and attached to them with self-tapping screws.
The horizontal crossbar, as in the previous case, should be at a distance of 5–6 cm from the horizontal lintel of the opening. In the photo - casing.

Installation on bars - this method is used in order to save money. It differs from the above described by the absence of casing, the installation of the door is carried out directly on the sliding bars. A technical gap of 5–6 cm is maintained between the door frame and the lintel of the opening. The method is recommended for small buildings, for example, for baths or one-story log cabins. For large buildings, it is recommended to use the first two.

How to put a door in the casing

Installation is carried out in the usual way, but fastenings are made not to the walls of the house, but to the boards of the casing.

First, a door frame is installed without a leaf - or with it, if we are talking about metal doors.
By using building level the position of the vertical and horizontal racks is aligned. Position adjustment is carried out with the help of wooden wedges placed in the gap between the frame uprights and the casing.
When the verticality of the box is reached, door frame secured with anchors.
Then you should hang the canvas. If necessary, the gaps between the casing and the frame are foamed.

How to make a door in a log house?

Like 2 fingers on asphalt.

Using a level, ruler, plumb line and pencil, mark the door opening. The size of the opening according to the size of the door frame is + 2 cm horizontally, and + 6 cm (in general, it depends on the thickness of the frame, we will take it conventionally as 50 mm) vertically. (it is easier to mark directly on the casing, applying it correctly.

Then, with the tip of the chainsaw, we cut accurately along the line of the vertical cut. Just be very careful so as not to get hit in the forehead by a bounced tire. Just in case, we put on a protective mask and helmet, and also remove the head and other parts of the body (except for the hands) from the cut plane.

We cut through the full thickness of the wall and then everything goes easily - from top to bottom, the whole cut. Then the second vertical.

Then, on the upper and lower logs, we make several cuts to the horizontal markings. We chop the kolobashki with an ax. We trim the planes.

Using a level, ruler, plumb line and pencil, mark out the groove for the strapping spike on the ends of the new opening. The width of the groove along the width of the spike + 0.5 cm. We take a circular saw and cut it along the markings to the depth of the spike (without a plus, we already have it closed in the width of the opening). We cut a groove with a hammer.

We try on the sidewalls of the casing, if everything fits, then we begin to install the door.

Retreat. our casing looks like this: four boards 50 mm thick and along the width of the opening, at the corners are assembled into a dovetail in such a way that the vertical board is inserted into the horizontal one from above (and not from the side!). in the middle uprights a spike is fixed (let it be 50x50 mm).

Installation. Evenly we lay the tow on the lower log, on it the lower board of the casing. We wrap the spike of the vertical rack with tow, neatly and responsibly, the spike can no longer be caulked. Then from above, simultaneously insert it into the dovetail and groove. We upset with the help of a mount and we put it into the groove with the help of a sledgehammer. Despite the fact that we made a gap, we carefully wrapped everything with tow and everything should go in tightly.

Then the second rack. Then we start the top board from above (we made a gap of 6 cm for this) and put it on dovetails vertical racks. After that, we left over the casing big gap. We take a board 2 cm less than this gap, put tow, top the board, and caulk the remaining gap on top. We also caulk all the cracks between the frame and the casing. Correctly installed casing in additional fastening does not need, you can fix the bottom board to the log with a pair of self-tapping screws.

How to properly install a door in a log house

Installation of doors in a log house It is difficult to imagine a bathhouse without windows and doors. These are as important elements of it as the stove, walls and roof. However, installing doors in a log house made of logs or timber is somewhat ...

After shrinkage has occurred and the logs have dried out properly, they make a log house caulk. This again leads to an increase in the height of the walls. It is clear that if you insert doors immediately after the construction of a wooden bath, then, at best, after a while you will not be able to open them, at worst, they will be destroyed by the vertical load of the settling log crowns.

What to do? Leave for two years without doors?

Of course not. There is a simple solution, which we will discuss with you in this article.

Entrance door to the bath

Particular attention should be paid to the front door. It is she who is most exposed to natural phenomena in the form of rain, snow, winter frost and summer heat, and also perceives emerging stresses due to a significant temperature difference inside and outside the bath.

Having decided on the design of the front door, you can start assembling it or buying and installing it in a log house.

How are bathroom doors installed?

In one of the previous publications, we have already considered the process of installing a window in a log house. Installing doors is not much different from installing windows.

The door frame is mounted in a pigtail (salary, casing), which allows it to move within the doorway during the shrinkage of the log house.

What is a pigtail (salary, casing)?

An okosyachka or salary is a special design used for mounting windows and doors in a log house. This design consists of two bars connected on top by a board.

You can see the installation of the front door in this way in the video below (click on the triangle to play):

This option is well suited for installing a lightweight panel door made of tongue and groove boards. But if you need to put a heavier door (for example, a metal one), then the pigtail will have to be made more reliable - U-shaped.

Installation of doors in a log house using a U-shaped pigtail (salary, casing)

After that, you can proceed to the markup.

For marking, a construction plumb line and a level are used:

After marking, the opening is sawn with a chainsaw.

With a sufficient thickness of the beam used for the construction of the pigtail, its design is very strong, which makes it possible to keep the walls adjacent to the opening from moving the logs.

Attention! The pigtail should not be attached to the logs. It must be able to move in the doorway.

A door frame with a door is mounted in the pigtail.

The figure below shows the casing mount in its upper part:

The numbers in the figures indicate:

1 - plumb
2 - level
4 - threshold
5 - groove marking
6 - cant
7 - box strapping
8 - spike on the ends of the logs (comb)
9 - insulation
10 - casing

Installation of internal doors in the bath

Installation of doors in the interior of the bath is no different from installation in the log house of the front door.

Openings are also marked, surrounded by a casing (pigtail), into which a door frame with a door is then mounted.

The choice of internal doors is now very large and you can choose not only wooden panel doors, but also beautiful modern doors made of special glass.

Now you know, how to make bathroom doors. In the following articles, we will learn how to install a door in a brick wall.

Dreaming of creating your own cozy corner, you made a decision to build log house . And now, taking timber as the basis for the future cottage, you involuntarily ran into a problemmanufacture of window and door openings wooden house. DIYit may seem impossible, but it is not. The key is to understand the process and technological features the task assigned to you.

General information on the formation of the opening.

Under construction.

The opening is made at the stage of construction of the log house

The hardest thing about anything is getting started. Modern methods of construction provide marking for future doors and windows at the stage of building construction. That is, the opening is cut out initially, and at the end of the construction you have ready-made holes.

How it's done?

It is quite simple, having decided on the location and dimensions of the opening, and in the process of tying the crowns of the building, cut out required size in a log with a frequency of 3-4 crowns. This is done to prevent possible extrusion of the crowns, and after the construction is completed, these "crossbars" are cut out.

Tip: make the opening already 1/10 of the outgoing size, this will help with further alignment.

This technology is excellent for both plain and rounded logs. Profiled timber makes it even easier to form an opening and does not require a "crossbar".

After construction.

The opening is cut in the wall of the log house

As an option for making window and door openings in a wooden house, cut an opening into an already finished wall. This is done using a conventional binzo / electric saw. The first and last log is cut to ½, later this will facilitate the process of pigtailing. All irregularities are removed with a chisel and planer.

Applicable to all types of logs. If the building is made of glued laminated timber, care is needed because of the possible chipping and peeling of the glued boards.

It is worth remembering that you need to cut the opening in the place where there are no wooden stakes (dowels) fastening the timber together.

Tip: for marking in case of sawing, you need to use laser level and plumb otherwise the result may be unexpected.

When making window and door openings in a wooden house with your own hands, first of all, you need to frame the opening using one of the types of pigtails.

Why is this needed?

An okosyachka or casing is needed to protect the door and window openings from natural shrinkage and shrinkage of wooden logs during the operation of the building. It protects the integrity of doors and windows and prevents their deformation. Casing is carried out in the form of a prefabricated frame from the sidewalls, the top and the window sill (threshold).

The manufacturing process of the pigtail is the same for all types of timber and is divided into the following steps:

Cutting "grooves" or "thorns" at the end of the log.
Manufacture and fitting of pigtail parts (technology varies depending on the type of casing).
Consistent collection of all parts of the casing.
Window or door installation.

Options for casing window openings:

Monolithic connection

Basically, there are three types of pigtails.

Let's consider the simplest one.

Monolithic connection. There are two subspecies.

In the first case, with the help of a chisel or chainsaw (if possible), a cut (“groove”) is made in the end of the beam with a depth of up to 10-12 cm. Further, using the same tools in the board for casing (usually a board with a thickness of 5 cm and a width of 15-20 cm is used), the corresponding spike is cut out.

All sides of the casing also have additional grooves at the end. The sidewalls have a T-shaped protrusion 5 cm in size, the upper and lower parts have a U-shaped depression. They serve to clutch the pigtails into a more stable structure.

After the spike should fit into the groove quite tightly (you can also use liquid nails or mounting foam for this), but in no case “tightly” hammer it with self-tapping screws (hard landings must not be allowed). This is done so that during deformation and shrinkage of the beam, the casing can play a little in one direction or another without damaging the window or door.

This method is called T-shaped or otherwise in a deck.

The second option, U-shaped (or in a deck), is fundamentally no different and the main difference is that the spike will be on the log, and the groove is made in the pigtail board.

The side parts of the pigtail are mounted first, then they are wedged with a window sill board, the top is installed last, also by spreading the side parts.

The procedure for assembling casing and installation for doorways.

Although the process of preparation and installation is similar to the window casing, there are some differences.

Having chosen the type of monolithic connection (P or T) and cutting through the corresponding poses, first of all, you install the sidewalls of the casing. Further, with the help of additional grooves, the lower part of the casing is spaced. The vertex is mounted last. For casing, it is necessary to make a casing (you can choose any suitable material). The platband acts as an insulating component and will not allow drafts.

Note: There should be a space between the top and the timber of the building within 1/20 of the height of the window/door opening. This is the so-called gap on the draft of the timber. The gap itself is filled with a sealant and hidden under the casing.

Mounting the apex

All connections are sealed and fixed with terrible nails (although in doorways, hard mounting of the threshold in clusters is sometimes allowed).

What should in no case be allowed in the process of making window and door openings in a wooden house with your own hands.

Firstly, you should not rely on your diamond eye, stuffed hand and old dad's level. Only accurate marking with the help of modern devices will give the desired result!

Secondly, forgetting or not considering it necessary (and why am I building a bathhouse, it won’t let you land) leave a gap between the top and the log, you run the risk of being left, as they say, “No windows, no doors.”

The third thing to remember is to measure seven times, cut once. It is better to measure everything several times than to try to close up the gaps and get rid of the draft.

Strengthening the structure with liquid nails

In no case should you plant the casing on a “hard” grip with the beam, even if you just have a bathhouse. After heavy rains and a period of scorching sun, the beam can lead to the side and the casing will simply turn out.

You should not save on antiseptics and other woodworking materials, it is not uncommon for timber to rot in grooves and other contact points due to moisture penetration.

Do not try to use a metal hammer or sledgehammer when spreading the sides of the pigtail, upper and lower boards. This will deform the tree. There are special rubberized or wooden options.

Installation video

Something you wanted to do but forgot or a few helpful tips.

Glued profiled timberit is worth trimming with more “gentle” devices than a chainsaw, for example, grinder to avoid structural damage.
Before you start installation pigtails, it is worth carefully re-checking its connections with other parts (collect it several times outside the opening, insert it into the opening individual parts and check their adhesion)
Oddly enough, but tow is the best suited for sealing cracks and at the same time quite elastic.
One of the options for sealing between the top and the beam can be ordinary glass wool (it is worth stuffing it tightly into the gap and closing it with a casing), it perfectly retains heat and has excellent cushioning abilities.
Try to keep yourself away from large window openings and attics - this greatly affects the stability of the log house.

Finally.

Thanks to modern building technologies you can choose any right size windows or doors, and if you get a miscalculation error, or something just went wrong during the installation process, you can always order a door or window larger area. And in order not to tempt fate in the future and not to try to master the manufacture of window and door openings in a wooden house with your own hands, it is better to invite the hands of a professional and a master of their craft.

Wooden log houses are not built as often today as they were a few years ago. For some, this is not prestigious. For some it's too hard. For some it's expensive. After the invention of building materials such as foam blocks and other inexpensive bricks, put stone houses even on summer cottages became more profitable. But after all, many people also put a bathhouse on a suburban area, and a wooden bathhouse will give a hundred points ahead of any brick one in terms of comfort and heat transfer and health benefits. Moreover, many make them on their own and in half the cases they are faced with such an incorrectly resolved issue as installing a door in a log house. After a year and a half, the door begins to close poorly, cracks and other not-so-good defects appear. It is quite possible to avoid all this, given all the subtleties of installing doors in a log cabin sauna.

A wooden log cabin or a log house assembled from a bar must stand, and it will take quite a lot of time. Experts say that no less than 3 years. A house or a bath will definitely shrink. In addition, the crowns can play a little in one direction or another. Looking from the outside, it is almost impossible to notice these changes, but according to the state of the door, if it is installed incorrectly, this will become clear over time. Up to the point that the door will simply turn out and you will have to completely redo the entire doorway.

Wooden door installation

Unlike brick house, where a doorway is formed during the construction of walls, a wooden frame is assembled in one piece, and only then openings are cut out in it for doors and windows. During this crucial operation, the wall loses its integrity. It may or may not roll out, but it must be fixed. For this purpose, a groove is sawn in the formed ends of the logs and a solid bar is inserted into it. It should enter the groove without effort, but so that it cannot fall out on its own. Bar length per 10 cm less height opening. This will allow him to stay in place during the draft of the log house and not be deformed.

Now you can start installing the door itself:

The most crucial moment is the assembly of the door frame. Making it with your own hands is not so difficult, but you need to carefully measure all the dimensions. For a simple opening in the form of the letter "P", you will need three sawn-off bars in size. If the doorway is planned with a threshold, then you can not do without the fourth.
The thickness of the timber is selected in such a way that it is not less than the thickness of the door leaf.
Measurements of the door frame and door leaf are recommended to be done in one measuring instrument(roulette, centimeter, ruler). A difference of a few millimeters can play a very negative role.
The length of each side is measured separately. The difference is not eliminated, but simply taken into account before the actual installation of the door frame.
The inner perimeter of the door frame must match the perimeter of the leaf.
During the installation of the door frame in the opening, for further foaming, 3-5 mm should remain on each side.
The best connection of the elements of the door frame is considered to be an angle of 45 degrees. However, this job requires some skills.
Holes for fasteners are pre-drilled.
It is also better to install the hinges even before installing the box in the opening.

The assembled door frame is installed in the doorway, secured with wooden wedges on both sides. This has two goals at once: alignment of the door frame in all planes and the formation of a gap for building foam. After making sure that all verticals and horizontals are close to ideal, tighten the fasteners. After that, hung door leaf and check the operation of the front door. Before foaming, it is recommended to seal the box with construction tape. After foaming until the foam is completely dry, it is better not to use the door.

Installation of a metal door in a log house

At a glance installation iron door in a wooden frame should not cause any difficulties. And the door frame is already ready, and the door leaf is fitted to it. This is if a solid door is purchased. Well, if you do it yourself, then fitting it to the finished opening costs nothing. The algorithm of actions is really very similar, but there are some subtleties that must be taken into account.

It is necessary to fasten the door frame with anchors or steel pins. The main thing is to calculate so that the location of the fastener does not fall between the logs.
The door leaf is removed from the box, and the box itself is installed in the doorway.
Align vertically and horizontally with wedges, while providing the necessary technological clearances.
Before drilling holes for anchor bolts, the box must be carefully secured using the same wedges.
Holes for fasteners are drilled.
Anchor bolts are inserted, nuts are screwed on.
The door leaf is hung and the operation of the entire door complex is checked.
Tighten or loosen nuts as needed. anchor bolts until the door closes and opens tightly and effortlessly.
The door leaf is removed again.
The box is sealed with construction tape, technological gaps are foamed.
After drying construction foam its excess is cut off with a sharp knife.
The door leaf is hung again, this time for good.

Everything is not so difficult, the main thing is not to rush anywhere and observe all sizes. However, when installing a metal door in a wooden frame, there is still such a nuance as a pigtail.

Pit when installing an iron door

The entire installation process described in the previous section can be useless without a bug. We should not forget the fact that a wooden frame, especially a new one, tends to shrink. Of course, it is possible to fix a metal door directly to the logs of a log house so that it does not deform in a year and a half, but this will require so carefully measuring and observing all dimensions that only an experienced specialist can do it. And he, in turn, before embarking on this difficult work, will offer you to make a pigtail for steel door, which eliminates all these unpleasant moments.

Roughly speaking, a pigtail is another wooden door frame on which a metal door frame will be attached. It is installed taking into account the future shrinkage of the structure. Specially calculated gaps will play and this will not affect the door itself.

The pigtail is usually made of a bar measuring 100x150 mm. The side walls are cut to the size of the metal door frame, but in such a way that there is a gap of 9-10 cm to the lintel. This gap will guarantee that during the shrinkage of the house or bath, the door will remain in place and it will be possible to close and open it without effort . Technological gaps are not foamed, but filled heat-insulating material, such as tow or glass wool. The foam can be applied after at least three years. During this time, all shrinkage processes should end, the tow can be removed, and the remaining gap should be foamed.

Installing a door in a log house between rooms is not much different from installing an entrance door. In the same way, it is necessary to build a door frame, carefully place it in the opening so that there are no vertical and horizontal deviations, and hang all the fittings. And, of course, to close all construction inaccuracies decorative platbands. It is also necessary to take into account the possible shrinkage of the house and other nuances.

When installing doors in wooden bath it is necessary to take into account not only the shrinkage of the entire frame, but high humidity. From it, logs and boards can swell somewhat, which can also lead to deformation of the doorway.

The front door in the bath should open outward so that in case of an accident or fire it does not interfere with exit.

It is better not to install all metal valves, latches and handles inside the steam room. Not only can they corny rust, but you can get burned about them.

On this, perhaps, we can finish. All the main secrets for installing a door in a log house, both wooden and iron, were indicated. It remains to wish you successfully cope with this difficult, but interesting work and, if you are installing your bath door or doors, light steam.

When shrinking log house incorrectly installed windows and door frames may be deformed. To avoid this, the openings in the log house for doors and windows are mounted in a “sliding” way, allowing the structure to sit unhindered.

When starting the construction of a log house, you can choose two options for making openings:

The first involves the construction of a log house without windows and doors. The necessary openings are made after the house has stood for 1 - 2 years.
An alternative to a long wait is to make window and door openings at the same time as building walls.

Both options are acceptable and require strict observance of the requirements for the installation of casing (pittings). And it is important to remember that the location of the openings must be planned in advance in order to avoid the irrational laying of pins (dowels). Particular attention should be paid to window piers. To prevent extrusion under the weight of the roof, it is required to install at least two dowels on the crown into the piers near the openings.

The role of the pigtail (casing) and its types

What is a pigtail and why is it needed? Okosyachka (casing or casing) is nothing but a team wooden frame with a specific connection that allows the structure not to deform when the frame moves. Windows or doors are subsequently mounted in casing boxes.

For clarity, consider general form casing openings:

The following functions fully reveal the question of the purpose of the pigtail:

Casing creates reliable connection in the opening of the log house.
The necessary compensation gap is created between the frame and the upper log.
Sliding joint protects against deformation installed windows and doors during draft and other movements of the log house.
Windows and doors are easily mounted in a pigtail.

Depending on whether the log house will be sheathed in the future finishing materials or not, there are two types of pigtails: “rough” and “finish”. Draft type allows rough handling logs and pigtails. The final option assumes that the casing will be installed without further finishing log house. Finishing pigtail both from the outside and from inside the log house is decorated with platbands. Under the platbands in the logs, battens should be made. For walls made of carriage or timber, cutting openings for carpentry is not required.

Types of casing connections in log openings

For reliable fixation of the pigtail with the opening of the log house, you can use the following tongue-and-groove joints:

Spike connection	Connection "to the deck"

Longitudinal grooves are selected in the beam on both sides. A corresponding vertical groove is sawn in the opening along the cuts of the logs. Jambs are inserted into the grooves with T-shaped spikes and burst with transverse boards.	With this connection, all selections and grooves are made in mirror image. That is, a spike is made in the logs, and a groove is made in the jambs. The assembly of elements is carried out in the same order as with a spiked connection.

How to make a pigtail of openings in a log house

The presented table describes the main stages of the installation of the casing (pigtails):

After assembling the log house, with the help of a level and a tape measure, openings are marked in accordance with the project. They are cut and leveled with a saw. A spike (or groove) is made at the ends of the logs.
In the side jambs of the casing, a groove (or tenon - depends on the chosen connection method) is selected for a previously made tenon (or groove). Jambs are installed in openings without rigid attachment to the walls of the log house. Platbands, when used, are attached only to the frame of the openings.
The shoals are wound into spikes with grooves and burst at first bottom harness, then the top. Between the top of the casing (4) and the overlying log, it is necessary to provide a gap (5 - 6% of the height of the door or window (3) ). The upper gap and seats are filled with moss, linen or other sealant (1) . After the pitting of the openings, windows (doors) can be inserted into them. (2 - casing).

Video addition

Observing all the rules when arranging openings in a log house, you are on finishing stage get high-quality and neat places for installing window and door blocks.