How to fill wooden floors. Concrete screed on wooden floor

Screed on a wooden floor under a tile can serve good decision for those who want to equip a bathroom or kitchen, and will also be appropriate for underfloor heating equipment.

Screed by wooden floor – not the best building solution, but with the right approach and certain conditions, you can successfully use such a connection in a wooden house.

What are the screeds?

The screed is upper layer on wood or concrete floor, which is further finished with a floor covering.

There are the following types:

Dry.
Cement.

In the first case, when using this type of screed, the surface becomes resistant to various loads and becomes high-strength.

It is made of drywall, moisture-resistant plywood or PVC sheets by laying on expanded clay or quartz sand. This type of flooring is the most suitable for a wooden floor.

A cement or concrete screed on a wooden floor is used as a base under polymer coating or ceramic tiles.

Thanks to her, the process of leveling the floor from wood takes place. The owner of the premises can fill it himself.

Pros and cons of screed

Dry screed will correct mistakes

Dry screed has several advantages:

simple manufacturing;
if it is available, it is convenient to lay communications;
easy to fix mistakes;
no need to wait for drying.

However, it has some imperfections:

sometimes a significant thickness is necessary, while the height of the room decreases;
there is an increase in material costs.

With a poured concrete screed, the material consumption is small, but it takes a long time to wait for it to dry.

In any case, it is worth making a choice in the direction of one or another material. The right decision will avoid further problems with other coatings.

Working conditions

How to make a screed correctly and follow all the stages of its construction? Concrete pouring under ceramics on wooden floors must be constructed in the correct sequence.

This should happen in the presence of a strong wooden flooring. On a dilapidated and unstable surface, the tile will crack and collapse over time.

There is an opinion that it is undesirable to make a screed on a wooden floor, it is better to raise the floorboards, fill the gap between the wooden beams with expanded clay, place slabs of cement and shavings on them, then pour the screed.

The pouring procedure can also be carried out directly on wooden floors. With this installation, there are some specific features.

Characteristic steps before pouring

Before pouring the screed, check the wooden floors, repair defective places

An indispensable condition for the manufacture cement screed on the floor and applying tiles is to identify the life of the tree, which should be at least three years.

The reason for this is the ability of wood to dry out and deform over time. It will take from 2.5 to 3 years to “calm down” it. Movement can occur after this period, but not so clearly.

The option, if the floor is not new, provides for:

a thorough inspection of the floors and the floor itself;
identifying weaknesses and major faults;
selective replacement of damaged parts;
sealing cracks and crevices with special means;
removing the plinth and replacing it with wooden slats;
floor sanding and debris removal.

After pouring an ordinary screed and drying it becomes a monolith, which cannot be said about concrete on wooden floors. It will be possible to remove irregularities and increase the strength of the floor, but it will not work to get rid of the main flaws.

What is the best way to apply?

Between the tree and the monolith, it is necessary to lay a moisture-proof layer

For greater reliability, the method of "incoherent" screed for a wooden floor is used. At the same time, it is isolated from floor covering and walls.

The floor is leveled first. A moisture-proof barrier is created between the moving part of the floor and the monolith.

For this it is used:

thick polyethylene film;
material in the form of a damper tape, which is fixed at the bottom of the wall and floor;
expanded polystyrene;
ruberoid;
material impregnated with bitumen.

Wood must be treated with an antiseptic and a layer of waterproofing, preferably from bituminous mastic. Then you can lay the film, leaving a ledge of 20 cm on the walls and be sure to make overlaps. They are glued with adhesive tape, they achieve a complete absence of joints, holes and wrinkles. How to make a screed on a wooden base, see this video:

The advantages of a "non-cohesive" screed

Similar moisture barrier board:

is floating;
cut off from the plank base;
makes the screed independent of changes in temperature and humidity.

What should be the solution?

Use brand M 400 for screed

V concrete mortar for screeding on a wooden floor, self-leveling compounds should be included. But the basis, of course, is cement and sand of the M400 brand.

Fill preparation steps:

Pour 25 kg of dry mixture with 6 liters of water;
mix by hand or with a mixer;
to achieve a homogeneous mass;
observe the desired temperature of the solution, it should not be lower than 10-15 degrees;
can be used warm water if the room is cold;

To achieve the strength and water resistance of the solution, you can add special plasticizers to it in the proportions indicated on the package. The option with the addition of a simple washing powder, one handful per 100 liters of water, is also suitable here.

The process of implementing a cement screed on wooden logs

Sometimes in wooden houses or old apartments, a concrete screed over wooden logs may be necessary.

Due to the fragility of the tree, the structures need to be strengthened.

This is done by setting metal frame or mesh, as well as a channel.

Before the construction of the frame, a heater made of expanded clay, perlite or other materials with low thermal conductivity is poured into the space between the lags.

Sufficient density and elasticity of the solution must be achieved by adding polystyrene, vegetable fibers and other necessary components. Such additives will also perform the role of sound insulation.

Sequence of work

Waterproof the base

First, a plastic film is spread on the base, and then a heater is placed. The channel is attached to the logs, a reinforcing mesh is mounted, even in two layers.

It should be at some distance from the heater. Approximately five clamps per sq.m. are used to determine the correct spacing.

After installing the frame and reinforcement, you can fill the floor with concrete. This is best done using pre-installed beacons.

After applying the mixture, it is necessary to level it with a vibrating screed. In this case, air bubbles are removed, in connection with this, the strength of the monolith increases.

Screed Care

A day after pouring, the screed is subjected to abundant moisture.

Subsequently, for another week it needs to be sprinkled with water, and for several days the newly made concrete floor is covered with a film for a uniform release of moisture.

It is also necessary to monitor the temperature background and the percentage of humidity in the air.

After the solution has completely dried, it is polished, as a result of which a smooth surface is created.

Some nuances

Is it possible to give up the use of reinforcement and apply more simple materials? Definitely yes. After all, the drying period of the screed using fittings can be up to a month, and then you will need to wait the same amount after the completion of all work. How to make a screed wooden beams Check out this helpful video:

To avoid such procedures, fiberglass is used to strengthen. The random placement of polymer fibers guarantees strong bonds in all directions, and the weight of the screed itself will also decrease.

A well-arranged screed on a wooden floor will be an excellent base for laying a coating such as ceramic tiles.

Screed on a wooden floor is not best solution for a new floor. However, despite this opinion, with the observance of all technologies, it is really feasible. In addition, there are wooden floor structures, which, being in good condition, are easier to fill with a self-leveling floor than to redo the entire floor structure.

This article will be useful for those who build their own Vacation home. Having made a self-leveling floor on a wooden one, it is easy to lay tiles in the bathroom or kitchen at home.

Same for owners. country houses information about septic tanks from concrete rings. You can get information about septic tanks and place an order.

Wooden floor structures

Before you start talking about the screed on the wooden floor, you need to understand the designs of wooden, plank floors.

It hardly makes sense to make a screed on a wooden floor, which is laid on logs and a floor slab 220 mm thick. The thickness of such a wooden floor is 70-77 mm and the best solution for such a floor is to remove the wooden floor along with the joists and make a screed over the concrete floor slab.

It makes sense to make a screed on a wooden floor if the floor logs are on high brick pillars. The height of such pillars can reach 30-40 cm (or more) and it is not possible to replace them with a screed. You can see two photos of schemes of such floors below.

That's it about the floors of this design can be discussed as a possible basis for the screed.

Features of the screed on the wooden floor

Before deciding to make a screed on a wooden floor, pay attention to the following:

A screed on a wooden floor refers to unbonded screeds, that is, a layer of such a screed will not be connected to the bottom layer of the base and will be an isolated, unrelated layer of the floor. From this follow some features of the screed on the wooden floor.

Firstly, wooden base under the screed must be very strong and completely motionless. The cushioning that is so characteristic of a wooden floor must be completely eliminated. With a possible oscillation of the wooden floor, the screed above it will crack, which is unacceptable.

Secondly, depending on the selected material for the screed, the thickness of the screed can be quite thick. For example, using for screed cement-sand mixture, the thickness of the screed should be from 10-12 cm. The weight of such a screed will significantly increase the load on the wooden floor. If we take into account that the wooden floor is laid on the logs, and there is a step between the logs (the distance between the logs), then with an increase in the load on the wooden floor, the distance between the logs must be reduced. V large rooms the distance between the lags can reach 85 cm. Therefore, deciding to make a cement-sand screed in big room, you have to disassemble the floor, reduce the step between the lags by putting new lags and restore the wooden floor again.

It’s still a job, and, perhaps, you should think a hundred times before making a cement-sand screed on a wooden floor in a large room.

In order not to dismantle the floor and not to reduce the distance between the lags, use not a cement-sand mixture, but, for example, anhydrite floor levelers. The thickness of such a screed is from 30 mm, the leveling agent does not require reinforcement and can be used for unbonded screeds.

Thirdly, cement - sand screed on a wooden floor is done, always with a reinforcing mesh. This is done, again, to increase the strength of the screed. Moreover, the fiber in the screed will not save you from using a reinforcing mesh. That is, for a semi-dry screed, you will also have to make a reinforcing mesh with cells of 100 × 100 mm.

Conclusion. The use of a cement-sand screed for large rooms with a wooden floor is not justified by labor-intensive work. But. If the circumstances and conditions are such that it is impossible to avoid a screed on a wooden floor, then for the screed device it is better to take a leveler suitable for an independent screed, and not use a cement-sand mixture. In general, I would not consider a cement-sand screed as a priority for screeding on a wooden floor, although the use of a quality leveling agent will significantly increase the cost of the screed material.

Screed material for wood flooring

To perform a screed on a wooden floor, you will need the following material:

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Polyethylene film with a thickness of 200 microns, for waterproofing the screed layer from wood and walls;
Screed mix. About the choice of mixture, read a little higher. If you choose a cement-sand mixture, then prepare a reinforcing mesh, preferably with a stainless coating. The mesh should not be in rolls. Why not in rolls?

You have to fix the reinforcing mesh on a wooden base, while you must not break the waterproofing, that is, do not tear the film. Consider how you will attach the mesh. At the same time, think about how you will fix the beacons for the DSP screed, because there is nothing to fix the beacons, the base for attaching the beacons is polyethylene.

Why am I making these comments? In my opinion the device cement-sand screed on a wooden base in large rooms is better not to do. The amount of work and problems will completely overshadow the result. Replace DSP with "Screeder" for insulated bases (unbonded screed). For example, on an anhydrite floor leveler.

Wood screed technology

The wooden floor must be strong, immovable, dry and not rotten. The same applies not only to the floor boards, but also to the logs and pillars on which it is laid. Rotten boards need to be replaced.

Important! You can not make a screed on a freshly laid wooden floor, it can be deformed. The age of the wooden floor for screed must be more than one year when the floor is used in the range of domestic temperatures. Although I have no idea who needs to screed on a new wooden floor.

The heads of the nails with which the boards are nailed must be sunk a few millimeters so that they do not tear the layer of waterproofing film that must be laid on top of the boards.

If your apartment is located on the first floor and there is a basement or ground under you, then the seams between the boards need to be puttied with epoxy putty. Epoxy putty is chosen because it does not allow moisture to pass through. The seams are sealed so that no vapor is formed between the film laid under the screed and the boards.

If the joints between the wall and the floor are wide, then close them construction foam, and on top with epoxy putty and liquid waterproofing.

After the putty has dried, 200 micron thick polyethylene is spread on the wooden base. Polyethylene spreads with an overlap on the walls of 10-15 cm. Two adjacent pieces of polyethylene are overlapped by 20-25 cm. Seal the joint between the pieces of polyethylene with waterproof mounting tape. Tape the patches to the wall with tape.

Polyethylene should lie evenly, without folds. There should be a clean wooden base without debris under the polyethylene.

Solution preparation

Let me remind you, we make a screed from a mixture of leveling agent. We make a screed solution according to the instructions on the package. The leveling agent mixture is added to the water, not the other way around. The mixture is stirred to the state of thick sour cream mechanically, with a mixer at low speeds.

How to check the consistency of the mixture

To check the correct consistency of the mixture, find a container with a diameter of 70 mm so that it can hold 1 liter of solution. From this cylinder, pour 1 liter of solution onto a 50x50 cm plexiglass plate. The diameter of the spread solution should be 34-38 cm. This means that the density of the solution is done correctly. The density of the solution must be checked constantly.

Set screed level

An unbound screed with a leveler must be more than 30 mm. For a wooden floor, choose 50 - 60 mm. It is better to measure the level of the screed laser level. If the room is very small, it is enough building level. Using the laser level, draw a screed line along the wall and set the beacons of the benchmark (levels on legs) along the floor surface.

Filling the screed

The finished mixture of leveling agent is poured continuously over the entire surface of the floor from the far corner to the exit. For a successful filling, helpers will be needed. One dilutes the mixture, the second continuously pours the solution, the third levels the solution at the level of the beacons and marks, with a special metal bar with oscillatory movements (raising and lowering the bar) along and across the cast surface.

Caring for a flooded screed

In a room with a flooded screed, there should be no drafts and low temperatures. If you still used a solution of DSP, then cover the screed with polyethylene. Anhydride self-leveling floor must be protected from excessive insolation (direct sunlight) for 2 days, too high temperature, drafts and water. After two days, the room must be ventilated.

Some conclusions of the article

Before screeding, evaluate the structure of your wooden floor;
Sand-cement screed is very heavy and will put a lot of stress on the wood floor, so you may need to reinforce the wood floor;
If possible, replace the DSP with a high-quality leveler for an independent screed;
DSP screed on a wooden floor is cost-effective only for small rooms, kitchens, baths;
Think a hundred times before applying a screed on a wooden floor in houses with wooden floors, be mindful of the load.

And the last. If you plan to use tiles as a finish, replace the screed on the wooden floor, if possible in level, with the laying of cement-bonded particle boards (DSP).

When repairs begin, the question arises: what kind of floor to lay? Supporters the latest technologies stop at self-leveling polymer floors, however, there are those who prefer a wooden floor. Its popularity has not faded over the centuries, and this is not surprising, since wood is a natural, environmentally friendly material that does not contain any chemical impurities, and most importantly, wooden floors are warm. Installation of such a floor on a concrete base is quite feasible with your own hands, you just need to take into account the nuances of the process and take into account the nature of the room where the installation will be carried out.

The photo shows the process of eliminating holes and cracks in the concrete floor.

The maximum moisture content of the screed is 3%.

On the preparatory stage v concrete base via diamond drill communication holes are made (for sewerage, cables, etc.).
An important point is waterproofing. It serves as protection for the lag and the future wooden flooring from moisture, thus ensuring a longer service life. waterproofing material Penofol or a thick polyethylene film can be used, which must be laid with an overlap of 20 cm. Another option is to coat with a primer (one-component polyurethane primer). Then proceed to laying the floor.

Waterproofing options

There are three ways to lay a wooden floor on a concrete base:

On glue;
On the logs;
On waterproof plywood.

Glue mounting

Meaning this method is that the boards are laid directly on the concrete screed.

The base must meet the requirements of SNiP 3.04.01-87.

If the concrete has a loose structure, cracks are present, a separating substrate is placed on the base or soils are used for strengthening.

When using a wide wooden array, the fastening of the boards is carried out on an elastic polyurethane one-component adhesive. Narrow engineering or massive board fixed with polyurethane two-component adhesive.

Installation is done like this:

The room is measured, and boards of the required length are cut;
An adhesive mass is applied to the base with a spatula, the maximum layer thickness is 3 mm. You need to start from the wall opposite the entrance;
Two or three rows of boards are laid and pressed. Docking boards in the transverse and longitudinal planes must be tight;
After the glue hardens, the remaining rows creep. The boards of the last row are cut to width.

Laying on logs

This is the most popular technology to equip a wooden floor, the advantage of which is the masking of communications under the floor. Their minus: since the thickness of the base is 10 cm, it is not recommended to lay such a floor in rooms where the ceiling is low.

Boards are attached to wooden ones, which are bars, beams or thick boards standing on edge.

Installation of a wooden floor on logs is applicable if the thickness of the boards is at least 20 mm.

Logs are placed on the base perpendicular to the rays of light penetrating from the window in compliance with the step:

Board less than 35 mm thick - 0.6 m;
35-40 mm - 0.8 m;
More than 40 mm - 1 m.

The sequence of actions when arranging a wooden floor on logs is as follows:

Fix the logs to the concrete base with screws and dowels. Drown their hats by a few millimeters;
Align the lags according to the level. The deviation should not exceed 2 mm for every two meters;
lay wood-fiber material along the walls for sound insulation;
fill the niches between the lags with materials for sound and heat insulation (expanded clay, mineral wool, polystyrene, etc.);
fix the floorboards with self-tapping screws.

Laying is done in the direction of the rays of light, starting from the wall. In this case, it is necessary to leave a seam with a width of 0.7-1 cm in case of expansion with increasing temperature.

Technology for fixing floorboards on logs

The joints of the boards should be located in the middle of the lag.

A tongue-and-groove board has a groove on one edge, and a tongue on the other side, this contributes to the rigid fastening of adjacent boards. It is advisable to drill holes for self-tapping screws in advance and obliquely, which will prevent cracking of the boards. When all the boards are laid, it is the turn of the skirting boards.

Mounting on a plywood base

Technology of laying plywood on a concrete base

On a concrete screed, laying a wooden floor can be carried out using moisture-resistant plywood, the thickness of which is from 12 to 18 mm. How it's done?

Plywood is cut into squares 40x40 or 80x80 cm.
undergo rough grinding.
Sheets are laid with a gap of 4 mm diagonally towards the future wooden floor. First, plywood is fixed with glue, and then with dowels. 10 mm must be retreated from the wall. Laying plywood sheets is similar to laying bricks. Screw heads are recessed by 3-4 mm.
The surface is cleaned from dust and dirt.
Floor boards are fastened with self-tapping screws to plywood.

Laying wooden floors on a concrete screed is easy. Subject to the laying technology, such floors will last for many years and provide a warm and comfortable microclimate in the house.

Dear reader, leave your opinion about the article in the comments and share your secrets of installing wooden floors.

Valued for their quality and high wear resistance. This is a durable coating that can really not only make the floor even, but also beautiful. But in order for such floors to last for many years and look really presentable, it is important to properly fill them. At the same time, one of the important aspects of the filling process is proper preparation grounds. It is interesting that you can make a self-leveling floor on a wooden base, and not just on a solid concrete one. What installation features are important to consider in this case?

Self-leveling floors are made from special polymer mixtures, which, when solidified, can become a solid, neat and even base if the installation was done correctly. The composition of the mixtures used to create them can include cement, gypsum, various fillers, as well as a number of modifying additives that give the floor certain properties - for example, strength, ability to resist impacts, the rate of setting of the mixture, etc.

They are valued for the following:

high level of wear resistance;
a large selection of colors;
environmental friendliness;
excellent moisture-proof properties;
antistatic;
durability;
seamlessness - you can pour floors of this type throughout the apartment without a single joint;
resistance to a number of mechanical influences, as well as to the effects of almost all existing chemicals.

It is necessary to pour self-leveling floors on a properly prepared base. And many doubt whether they can be equipped on top. It turns out you can. It is only important to properly prepare such a foundation. It is also important to choose the right type of mixture for pouring.

Table. Types of mixtures for filling.

Mix type	Characteristic
Epoxy	From such a mixture, good floors are obtained that are not at all afraid of the effects of water. They are usually settled in rooms where the level of humidity is high. Such a floor can be poured onto a wooden base.
Polyurethane	One of the most durable floors with respect to serious long-term impacts. Great for arranging in areas with high traffic.
Methyl methacrylate	This mix is intended for creation of the bases in the rooms which do not have heating. Perfect for those where winter time there is no heating.
Epoxy urethane	Durable floors that are highly resistant to a wide range of influences. An alternative to polyurethane flooring.

On a note! Compounds for pouring floors can be either two-component or one-component. In the first case, you can create floors with beautiful pattern, and mixtures of the second type are used to create a base for other materials such as tiles, stone, etc.

Prices for self-leveling floors "Prospectors"

self-leveling floors miners

The choice of mixture for pouring

Usually on each package with a mixture for the manufacture bulk base its purpose is indicated. That is, for example, some are suitable for creating floors on a concrete base, while others can also be used on a wooden one. Most often, mixtures containing gypsum and cement are excellent for these purposes.

Important! Do not confuse mixtures for pouring the floor with compounds designed to level the surface. Such compositions are poured in a thin layer of only a few millimeters. To fill the floor on a wooden base, the thickness of the poured layer must be greater.

To choose the right mixture for pouring a wood floor, it is important to carefully study the instructions.

What will be needed?

To make a self-leveling floor yourself, you may need certain tools. The list of what you need to buy or rent includes:

directly the mixture itself;
wide spatula equipped with a long handle;
construction mixer or conventional drill with a special nozzle;
needle roller, which is used to remove air bubbles from the filled mixture;

building level of any type - necessary to assess the final result;
polishing tools ( Sander, sandpaper etc.);
waterproofing materials (at least a dense polyethylene film);
construction vacuum cleaner;

hammer, nails, nail puller;
sealing mixture, with which it will be possible to eliminate the gaps between the floor boards or plywood sheets. Can be replaced with spatula.

Do-it-yourself self-leveling flooring on a wooden base raises questions for many. Is it possible? How to do it? What is better to use as a base - plywood, chipboard, OSB or just boards? You will find all the answers you need in our article.

Self-levelling mixtures are compositions of cement or gypsum binder, mineral fillers and modifying polymer additives that improve basic characteristics composition (curing speed, flexural strength, compression, and others).

On the label, manufacturers usually indicate that the mixtures are intended for leveling and repairing bases. mineral type. These are cement-sand, anhydride and other types of screeds, concrete plates, underlying layers of crushed stone, slag, sand, bulk and natural soils(rammed).

And how to find out which compositions can be used on chipboard and OSB-plate, wood and plywood. To do this, just look at the instructions. In the description for cement and cement-gypsum self-leveling self-leveling floors, these categories should be indicated among the bases.

For wooden and sheet surfaces, the compositions are applied in a layer of 3 to 7 cm. Do not confuse with thin-layer gypsum and gypsum-cement levelers, the layer thickness of which does not exceed 0.2-3 cm.

Since wood and its derivatives (plywood, fiberboard, chipboard, OSB, HDF) have a high coefficient of seasonal changes in linear dimensions, manufacturers strongly recommend the use of separating layers (geotextile, PE film) plus a perimeter damper. Simply put - to form a floor of a "floating" type.

How to choose the right multicomponent mixture? See composition. According to the established rule, in complex compositions, the component that is larger is indicated first. For example, a cement-gypsum self-leveling floor contains more than 50% Portland cement and less than 30% gypsum. Though the best option professionals consider purely cement compositions. The fact is that their strength is much higher than that of analogues, respectively, it is possible to make a more durable and reliable self-leveling floor on a wooden base.

So, is it possible to do the alignment of the base from the board, chipboard, OSB with your own hands using ready-made compounds? The answer is yes, but with some caveats:

When choosing a mixture, carefully read the instructions, in particular the sections “Composition” and “Types of bases”.
Form a "floating" type floor using polyethylene film and damper tape. In extreme cases, carefully treat the base with waterproofing compounds (blocking primers, impregnators, mastics).

Do-it-yourself self-leveling flooring technology on a wooden base

To fill the mixture, you will need the following set of tools and materials:

Belt grinder, planetary grinder (surface grinder) and/or angle grinder. It is better to rent professional series devices for 1-2 days. They are more powerful and work in several modes;
Fine-grained sandpaper for finishing grinding (from 180 to 600 units), as well as a belt or nozzles for a grinder (grain size - from 80 units);
A plastic or wooden grater for sanding paper, a manual scraper for small jobs;
Construction vacuum cleaner;
Hammer and nail puller;
Sealant or repair putty for filling cracks, gaps;
waterproofing compounds or polyethylene film thickness from 150 microns;
damper tape;
Roller or maklovitsa for applying coating waterproofing;
Wide spatula or doctor blade;
A plastic bucket or container for mixing the solution;
Construction mixer or drill with a nozzle;
Point beacons, laser level or water level;
Needle roller for rolling the mixture;
Paintbrushes, gloves.

To prevent your hands from tiring too quickly, choose tools with ergonomic, rubberized handles. They are easy to use and do not slip.

Self-leveling floor on plywood, chipboard or OSB-plate must be done in 3 stages.

Stage 1. Wood surface preparation

When working, you need to be guided by SP 29.13330.2011. Normative act requires pouring rolling stock on an even (!), solid and dry base. That is, without oil stains, paintwork materials, bitumen and other defects.

First, inspect the floor. It must be in good condition: without rot, mold spots, paint residues, varnish, blackness, chips, “playing” boards. Floorboard, OSB and chipboard should be checked for differences between sheets or planks, gaps, squeaks.

Removal of old paintwork

For a painted surface, use washes of old paintwork materials. Or, with a hand grater, carefully remove the coating. This will create a fairly rough base on which the waterproofing material will “lie down” well and will not slip.

The simplest and effective way preparation - grinding the entire surface with a planetary or belt unit. Corundum or diamond abrasive will remarkably eliminate all protruding irregularities (slabs, drops), severe pollution. Manufacturers and technologists strongly recommend not to skip the stage of carefully leveling the surface for pouring. This is necessary in order to create a single, monolithic cement web of the same thickness over the entire area, which means identical strength, without weak areas.

For the same purpose, pits, potholes, chips and cracks are filled with an elastic sealant for wood, putty compounds. Professional repairers devote a lot of time to this, because they know that the spiked roller, when rolling the solution, very often simply “rips out” the solution from the recesses. Because of this, the frozen surface is uneven. Instead of putties, you can use a simpler option - sawdust mixed with PVA glue.

Plywood flooring on dry boards.

Walk across the floor and mark where you need to additionally secure the base with self-tapping screws or nails. Be sure to check every slab or floorboard. The minimum interval between fasteners is 40-50 cm.

If the boards are dry or too damaged, you can additionally sew chipboard or plywood at least 14 mm thick on top. And to avoid creaking between the sheets, pour finely crushed chalk into the gaps.

Do not forget to first remove the skirting boards, as well as the protruding metal elements or hardware. “Drown” all fasteners with a hammer 0.5 cm into the floor. After completing the work, walk construction vacuum cleaner and a damp cloth to remove dust and small chips.

Formation of a separating layer of polyethylene.

The next step is the formation of a separating waterproofing layer and its careful fixation. The film is laid over the entire surface with an institution on the walls by 10-15 cm. If strips are used, then they overlap by 8-12 cm.

Instead of polyethylene, the use of waterproofing compounds is allowed. And this must be done. The tree and its derivatives do not like moisture, there is a risk of rotten areas under the finished bulk composition. In addition, untreated wood has the ability to "pull" water out of the solution. As a result, the cement binder will not have enough liquid for aging and a full set of strength, and the floor will turn out to be loose, weak, in pits and tubercles.

It is known that cement and wood have different coefficients of thermal expansion. Therefore, so that in the future the finished base does not crack or damage the walls, be sure to glue the damper tape around the perimeter. It can be replaced with isolon (NPE) cut into narrow strips with a thickness of 1-2 mm.

Stage 2. Preparation of bulk solution

Pour clean, without impurities, water with a temperature of +5 to +25 ° C into the container. Gently add dry ingredients, stir construction mixer for 5-7 minutes at speeds up to 500 rpm. The composition should be homogeneous, without lumps and bundles.

Let the solution mature for 5-10 minutes, then stir again. The pot life of the solution is always indicated on the label. This is the time during which the mixture must be used. On average it is 20-60 minutes.

Stage 3. Pouring a self-leveling self-leveling floor

If necessary, mark the required level of a new cement layer on the walls or place reference beacons on the base.

Pouring a self-leveling self-leveling floor.

Carefully pour the mixture onto the surface. Start from the far corner, gradually moving towards the exit. Spread the solution with a spatula or doctor blade and roll with a spiked roller to deaerate and compact the composition. After 7-14 days, the new flat floor will be ready for laying tiles, porcelain stoneware and other finishing flooring.

Summing up, we note: it does not matter whether plywood or chipboard, HDF or OSB, boards or concrete acts as a base. It is the correct preparation that is important, namely the formation of an even, solid and dry base.

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