Is it possible to pour a liquid floor on a wooden one. Self-leveling floors on wood: goals, technology and alternatives

Conducting repair work, homeowners increasingly prefer the device cement screeds as a finishing coat.

This type of floor guarantees strength, durability, and the latest developments make it possible to apply design art.

The technology for the production of self-leveling floors does not raise questions when they are poured onto floor slabs. But the self-leveling floor on a wooden base - this problem seems insoluble. Consider how to properly prepare a wooden base for pouring and what to look for in order to avoid mistakes.

Required base properties

If the floor boards are stuffed on logs that are fixed on a concrete base, then it is better to dismantle everything up to the rough screed.

This will greatly simplify the process of pouring the floor and is guaranteed to increase its service life.

The boardwalk as the basis for the self-leveling floor must have certain characteristics:

The cover must be hard. Playing or poorly fixed elements are not allowed.
When applying physical pressure, the floor boards should not sag.
The floor must have a minimum run-up in height.
The tree must not have any damage. Boards showing signs of decay or large cracks should be replaced.

It is important to check for defects not only the material of the finish coating, but also the logs. When the boards are bent, lay additional beam grounds.

If there is no waterproofing, remove the old coating and lay a protective film

Be sure to check the condition of the waterproofing of the floor. If the material is leaky or not laid, it must be done. To do this, you will have to dismantle everything to the subfloor, lay the film and re-establish the boardwalk. This must be done because wood is a living material and reacts to moisture.

The boards on which the screed will be poured should not be subjected to any changes so as not to destroy the cement layer.

If the wooden base meets all of the above requirements, you can begin to prepare it for pouring the floor.

Preparatory stage

Under the self-leveling floor on a wooden base, it is necessary to bring the most even surface. Preparation is perhaps the most important step.

The quality and service life of the future self-leveling floor depends on how well the base tree is processed.

Sand the old coating by removing a layer of paint and varnish

The sequence of work in the preparation process:

It is necessary to dismantle all skirting boards together with fasteners and note small cracks or holes in the boards.
The floor is cycled, while the removal layer may be larger than usual. It is necessary to get rid of paint, varnish or other coating. At the same time, get rid of small dents and shallow chips.
There is a seal of non-liquidated cracks with bars or putty.
The surface is sanded to give a slight roughness and get rid of excess putty.
The floor is being cleaned. Small debris and dust are removed. The surface is degreased.

After carrying out the above activities, the floor must be primed. Moreover, this must be done at least 2 times. This is done in order to improve the adhesion of the screed solution to the wooden material.

Pick up correct primer containing quartz sand. Such processing will give the floor additional roughness and increase the degree of adhesion.

When mixing the cement-acrylic mortar, be careful with the addition of water, excess will cause cracking of the coating.

Expert advice:

Before placing a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor, check the humidity level in the room and the air temperature. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on the packaging.
Before pouring, glue the entire perimeter of the floor with a damper tape, this will help to avoid additional risks of destruction of the screed.
According to technology upper layer performed by a leveler. Check the manufacturer's data to see if this particular mixture is allowed to be used on a wooden base.
If a cement-acrylic mortar is used in the work, then when mixing it, try to avoid an excess of water. High water content during drying will give cracks on the screed. To learn how self-leveling floors are made on a plywood base, see this video:

The pouring height is no more than 5 mm; to control the thickness and evenness of the layer, install beacons over the area of \u200b\u200bthe room.

Types of mixtures for pouring the floor, their advantages and disadvantages:

Mixture	Advantages	Flaws
polyurethane	UV resistant Possibility of 3D floors	Low resistance to mechanical damage
Epoxy	Almost zero susceptibility to chemical and physical influences	Long readiness cycle High price
Methyl methacrylate	Quick readiness for operation High strength	Toxic before solidification
Cement-acrylic	Labor intensive when pouring

Pouring process

When laying a self-leveling floor on a wooden base, mix the solution strictly in the proportions indicated on the package. If you are inexperienced, mix small batches so that the solution does not thicken. Start pouring from the wall opposite the door, from the far corner. To learn how self-leveling floors are made on a wooden base, see this video:

As a rule, work takes place in a certain sequence:

the solution is mixed. The ideal density of the solution resembles thick sour cream;
spread the mixture over the surface with a squeegee or spatula, achieving required thickness;
remove beacons;
remove the air by walking over the surface of the layer with a spiked roller.

When buying a roller, consider the thickness of the layer being poured: the size of the needles should be 2 mm larger than the thickness. Otherwise, the base of the roller will touch the fill layer and create irregularities on the surface.

Let the poured layer dry for 2 days

The poured layer must dry for 2 days at a constant temperature and humidity. At first, do not allow water to enter the floor surface.

The self-leveling floor for wooden bases can be used not only on a plank base. Self-levelling mixtures can also be poured onto plywood. In this case, it is better to choose polymer mixtures for pouring.

To work with cement mortars needs to be looked at more carefully. When working with aqueous solutions it is better to lay a waterproofing film on the tree. If necessary, put a reinforcing mesh on top of it.

V wooden house, as a rule, they lay a wooden floor, by the way, you can order flooring here remont-kvartiri.info, but of course it’s better to try to do it yourself. However, a self-leveling floor can be an excellent substitute, or rather, one of its varieties is a leveling screed based on cement or gypsum, on which linoleum, laminate or any other coating can subsequently be laid, including another type of self-leveling floor - topcoat.

If the filling is carried out correctly, the floor will level itself horizontally and quickly harden. Poor-quality work leads to the appearance of cracks in the floor, so you need to start with the preliminary preparation of the place of work.

Such a floor is made on an old wooden floor, having previously sanded it with sandpaper. Skirting boards, if any, must be removed, all joints, cracks and possible holes must be vacuumed, after which the floor must be degreased again with cleaning powder. Now you can close the cracks and joints - for this it is suitable polyurethane foam and silicone sealant for joints.

A day later, the next stage is performed - the primer. Its absence can lead to cracks in the self-leveling floor and even peeling. In addition, the primer plays the role of a waterproofing agent. Apply primer in two layers with a roller or brush with natural bristles. After 5 hours after applying the primer, you can start laying the self-leveling floor, the maximum time between the primer and the pouring itself is a day.

If the floors are wooden, it is advisable to cover the floor with a film that completely isolates the wood from the screed. Therefore, the film should not be damaged, all possible small cuts or holes, and the joints must be glued with adhesive tape.

But between the primer and laying the floors, there is one more step - marking. Parallel lines are drawn, slightly less than the length of the floor, and at regular intervals - about 30 cm - self-tapping screws are screwed in at a certain height. They will play the role of a level, since the self-leveling floor should be about 3 cm thick.

The container for the solution should be large enough to stir the entire bag at once - at least 25 liters. If you prepare the solution in portions, you can get different characteristics because of not uniform distribution chemical additives, which may affect the quality of the self-leveling floor.

The water for the solution must be clean and have room temperature. The self-leveling mixture is poured gradually, stirring with a mechanical drill attachment in the form of a stirrer for several minutes. The mass must be homogeneous, the amount of water and mortar must be proportional, otherwise the floor will be less durable. The solution should stand for several minutes, after which it is mixed again. The solution must be used within 20 minutes after mixing.

The mixture is poured into strips in height, according to the markings with self-tapping screws. In order for the composition to lay down evenly, and bubbles form on it, immediately after pouring it is necessary to roll it with a spiked roller. If the room has a large volume, then it is better to fill it through one lane. After 5 hours, it is allowed to walk on the self-leveling floor, and it is allowed to lay linoleum or any other finish coating after twelve hours.

The main advantages of self-leveling floors lie in their wear resistance, durability and strength of the coating. In addition, they have such qualities as: environmental friendliness and safety.

Serious changes have also taken place since their inception, today polyurethane coatings have a rich number of color options, especially for such a type as a 3d self-leveling floor. With their help, it is possible to create real design masterpieces with a stunning three-dimensional effect.

When laying bulk mixture, one of the laborious processes is the preparation of the base. Many homeowners are put off by the removal of old hardwood flooring. At the same time, not all of them know that along with concrete, a wooden base can also be used. Perform installation bulk coating on a tree follows if the wooden one is of good quality. A thin mixture should be chosen so as not to increase the height.

Preparatory work

Before pouring, carefully prepare the base. This procedure must be done with any type of base, and especially if the surface is to be mounted on an existing wood flooring.

The first step is to remove all the skirting boards from the floor, as well as remove their fasteners from the walls. After that, the surface is scraped. For this you should use . However, if the room is small, then a manual cycle can handle it.

The next stage is the opening of cracks with a grinder, which, one way or another, are formed on a wooden coating. Then all the bumps and cracks are covered with putty. After it dries, the surface is polished with coarse-grained emery. This procedure is necessary to ensure better adhesion.

Then, cleaned of dust with industrial vacuum cleaner coating should be degreased before priming. The primer of the basis is necessary for increase in durability of adhesion of a tree with polyurethane material.

The base should be primed in two layers. Screened quartz sand can be added to the composition, thus, the most reliable adhesion between the base and the polymer coating will be ensured.

Necessary tool for the job

To carry out work on the preparation of the foundation, you will need:

Nail puller, wooden wedges and a chisel for removing skirting boards.
Cycling machine or manual scraper.
Sanding machine.
Coarse-grained emery.
Industrial vacuum cleaner.
Roller or brush for applying primer.
Flat brush or short-haired roller for spreading the polymer coating.
Squeegee and spatula.
Construction mixer or drill for mixing the self-leveling floor mortar.

This should also include working overalls, goggles, gloves and respirators. Soles with spikes are also needed to allow walking on a freshly applied layer.

Self-leveling floor technology

The technology of pouring a polymer floor onto an ordinary wooden floor is no different from a similar procedure, where concrete acts as the base. The difference lies only in preparatory stage which we discussed in detail above.

Before pouring the self-leveling floor on wooden surface, it is necessary to prepare the solution in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

In a nutshell, the dry mixture is mixed with water using a construction mixer until a homogeneous mass is formed. Then, the resulting solution is laid out on a wooden base, starting from the far corner of the room.

The mass must be leveled with a spatula until the required thickness is reached. In the case of a wooden floor, this is a maximum of 5 mm. Best Tool to level and eliminate air bubbles - a spiked roller.

The intervals between filling batches of mortar should not exceed 10 minutes, while the joints must be carefully rolled with a roller.

At the end of the pour, after 15 minutes, it is necessary to cover the hardening surface with a film, preventing dust from settling. After applying the base layer of the self-leveling floor and its hardening, a finishing coating is applied. It can be a polymer or varnish.

Installation cost

In general, the procedure is quite simple, and you can do it yourself, but if financial possibilities allow, nevertheless, you should hire a team of specialists who practically know how to make self-leveling floors.

Hiring professionals will provide:

High quality workmanship
Guarantee for all work done
Installation according to technology
The use of expensive but necessary construction tools in the work.

The cost of installing a self-leveling floor consists of several stages, these are:

Preparatory work (average price 400 rubles per 1 sq.m.);
Foundation primer (average price 200 rubles per 1 sq.m.);
Filling the surface (average price 400 rubles per 1 sq.m).

The cost of installing decorative floors is calculated individually. It is imperative to use the services of specialists if you plan to install a self-leveling floor in 3d format.

In the case of independent work, do not neglect the advice of professionals. Their experience will help to avoid costly rework later.

For residential premises, you should choose a mixture of self-leveling floors based on polymer resins. At the same time, in places of high humidity, epoxy look flooring, while polyurethane flooring in the rest of the house.

It is better to fill concrete base, but nevertheless, installation on a wooden wooden surface is also allowed.

At the same time, its preparation is no less laborious, and the service life and appearance gender. It is imperative to prime the base in two layers - this will facilitate the main work of pouring and increase the strength of the coating.

To create a high-quality bulk coating on a wooden base, in each case, you should produce your own necessary complex. Much is directly dependent on the conditions of further operation, the area and type of premises, as well as the type of foundation. If you doubt your ability to carry out high-quality installation, contact specialists who will not only perform the work, but also help with the choice of optimal materials.

V modern renovation very often self-leveling floors are used to level the base and for the topcoat. The main advantages of such floors are their durability, wear resistance, strength and ease of installation. In addition, it is impossible not to note their environmental friendliness and safety. Today, self-leveling floors have changed a lot in quality compared to those that were presented on the market a few years ago. An example of this is 3d floors, which can be called real masterpieces due to their unique design with a three-dimensional image of any object.

Laying a self-leveling mixture on a concrete base is not difficult for anyone, but how to make a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor? After all, not everyone likes the prospect of dismantling the old plank floor. And if this private house, where the floor was originally completely wooden? It's not a problem. There is a possibility of laying a self-leveling floor on a wooden surface under certain conditions. It is important here that the old base is still solid, and the floor mixture is thin-filled, so as not to reduce the height of the ceilings.

Preparation of the base for pouring the self-leveling floor

Since the self-levelling compound must be poured onto a sufficiently prepared substrate, this process should be given increased attention. Any basis requires careful preparation. This is especially true for the old wooden floor. We will immediately make a reservation that this old floor should not be rotten, there should not be any squeaks coming from it, not to mention the presence of dangling boards.

First of all, all skirting boards in the room are dismantled. After that, with the help of a scraping machine, the top painted layer is carefully peeled off from the boards. Further grinder overwrite the bases, revealing cracks that are sure to exist on any old wood flooring. These cracks, bumps and gaps between the boards are covered with putty. For further work, wait until it dries well. Then, using coarse sandpaper, overwrite the entire surface. This approach will provide better adhesion self-levelling compound with base.

The worn and even base is cleaned of dust and degreased with a vacuum cleaner. Then the surface must be primed. This guarantees excellent adhesion of the polyurethane mixture to the wood. This must be done in at least two layers. The composition of the primer should be added sifted quartz sand. Grains of this substance create a roughness of the surface of the base, which increases the adhesion area and creates its multidirectionality. In sum, this gives greater adhesion of the polymer and wood.

Tool required for work

To carry out work on the preparation of a wooden base and pouring the mixture, you will need:

An ordinary nail puller, wooden wedges and a chisel for dismantling skirting boards.
Cycling machine or manual scraper.
Sander.
Coarse-grained sandpaper or emery.
Industrial or household vacuum cleaner.
Roller or medium-sized brush for applying primer.
Flat brush or short-haired paint roller for even distribution of the resin coating.
Needle roller for removing air from the polymer coating.
Squeegee and metal spatula.
Construction mixer or drill with a nozzle for mixing the polymer floor solution.

Don't forget about these compulsory subjects like goggles, workwear, gloves and respirators. In order to be able to move, if necessary, on a freshly applied layer of self-leveling floor without fear, you need to get shoes equipped with spiked soles.

Self-leveling polymer floor device technology

By itself, the technology of pouring a self-leveling mixture onto an ordinary plank floor does not fundamentally differ from a similar procedure, where concrete acts as the basis. The differences are only in the initial preparatory stage, which we have examined in sufficient detail above.

Before pouring the polymer floor, you need to carefully read the instructions for preparing the solution, which is available on the package. The solution must be prepared in strict accordance with it.

Take the dry mixture from the bag and pour it into a container convenient for kneading. A plastic bucket from water-based paint. Pour the amount of water required according to the instructions into the powder and begin to mix construction mixer or a drill with a special nozzle. Stir the mixture until a homogeneous mass is formed. Then, ready solution laid out on a prepared wooden base. They begin to do this from the farthest corner of the room, gradually moving towards the door.

The poured mass is leveled as it progresses with a spatula to obtain a layer no more than 5 mm thick. This optimal size in the case of a wooden base. The final leveling and removal of air bubbles is carried out using a rubber spiked roller. At the same time, you can move around the room using spiked shoes.

Self-Leveling Resin Floor Compound hardens very quickly, so mortar batches must be prepared quickly. The intervals between their fillings should be no more than 10 minutes. It is advisable to pour such a floor together, using two containers. While one person prepares the mixture, the second fills and levels the previous batch. The joints between batches of pouring should be more carefully rolled if you are doing the floor alone and cannot ensure a continuous process.

15 minutes after the room is completely filled, the entire surface must be covered with a film. This is required so that dust does not settle on the floor, spoiling the quality of the glossy surface. When the self-leveling floor is completely dry and it will be possible to walk on it, it becomes possible to apply a top coat. It can be a polymer for three-dimensional floors, varnish or traditional options floor coverings.

Installation cost

The cost of installing self-leveling floors in the house is strictly individual. They depend on the chosen type of self-levelling compound, its manufacturer, the cost of decoration. Floors in 3d format with an exclusive pattern cost an order of magnitude higher than ordinary ones. The technology for installing self-leveling floors on a wooden base is not particularly complicated, so you can do the work yourself. This will provide a significant reduction in the cost of the entire repair.

Here are approximate prices for the performance of work by professionals in stages:

Preparation of a wooden base for pouring a polymer self-leveling floor (average price 5 USD per 1 sq.m).
Priming of the prepared base (average price 3 USD per 1 sq.m).
Filling a wooden surface with a polymer self-leveling mixture (average price 6 USD per 1 sq.m).

Thus, for the entire range of work on pouring a self-leveling floor, for example, in a room of 20 m2, you will have to pay 280 USD. Agree that this amount is quite impressive. This is much more than the cost of the mixture itself. All these prices refer to the usual floor, which you can do yourself.

The cost of pouring decorative floors is usually calculated individually. If you decide to make a self-leveling floor in 3d format at home, then here you will definitely need to use the services of a specialist. This will guarantee:

High quality decorative coating.
A guarantee for all work performed.
Production of the entire installation cycle according to accepted technologies.
The use of too expensive, but necessary construction tools in the process.

In the case self-fulfillment work should not be neglected good advice professionals. This experience will help to avoid costly re-coating later.

In any residential area, it is recommended to use self-leveling compounds only based on polymer resins. In rooms where there is always high humidity, it is necessary to use an epoxy type of self-levelling flooring, while the rest of the house has a polyurethane flooring.

It is provided for pouring by technology on a concrete base, but installation on a wooden surface is also allowed. At the same time, the complexity of the work increases, since it is imperative to produce a high-quality preparation of the base with a two-layer primer. The adhesion strength of the coating to the wood of the base depends on this.

The house starts from the foundation and your apartment, room or any technical room starts from the floor. This is the surface that is exposed to the greatest external influences - walking, running, furniture pressure, dust settling, staining. Of course, this indicates the need to form a hardy, durable coating. Like many modern construction works, the floor can be made guided by the latest developments. There are two types of foundation - concrete and wood. The first is suitable for factories, enterprises, offices, homes, public places such as schools, hospitals.

Wooden floors can now be found in the private sector - on, in cottages, houses in eco-villages, as well as in areas of old buildings. But, nevertheless, it is this material that has unique natural properties and very valuable. For rooms with an imperfectly prepared rough surface, self-leveling compounds for a wooden floor are recommended. They will help to find a compromise between time-tested materials, economic considerations and dreams of a fashionable and stylish interior.

Surface preparation for work

The floor is not always even. Often the surface retains the flaws of past repair teams, sometimes it is deformed from time to time. In order to determine the condition of the main wooden floor, some work needs to be done. First of all, you need to get to it by removing the layers of the topcoat, which can be linoleum, carpet, laminate. This must be done carefully, without deforming the base. To do this, you should first look at the type of attachment in order to purposefully direct the force. When the surface is cleared of both the coating and the layer of insulating film and insulation, you need to pay attention to the boards. If you notice signs of decay, they are no longer suitable, as this process is irreversible. The appearance of small "bugs" is also an alarming symptom. If the tree is not damaged, steps can be taken to restore it and lay a new coating.

Evenness is very important in the arrangement of the floor. It will avoid problems with laying ceramic and cork tiles, a layer of laminate, solid wood planks or veneered MDF. Any excess bend will inevitably affect the appearance of the surface, forming bumps, cracks, preventing good adhesion of the adhesive. How do you know what the quality of your floor is? To do this, you can not only use the eye, but also make a calculation with the help of several threads stretched over the floor from one wall to another. Fasten the ends of the threads at the same height from the floor, then lower them to the level where at one point the thread touches the floor. Measure the distance from the thread to the floor in other areas. If the difference in height does not exceed a few millimeters, this is an acceptable error. If the height differences are more than 5 mm, it is likely that additional screeding will be required in this area. If there are gaps in the floor, they must be sealed with putty, otherwise the mixture will leak and bumps will appear.

Composition and features of the mixture

Leveling compounds can be a real help in the hands of the master, both for cement and wooden floors. They prepare the base for any kind of finish. Some of them need to be carefully rolled out over the surface and distributed by hand, while some spread themselves, filling all the cracks and cavities. It is with the latter types of mixtures that the beginner is easiest to work with.

The composition traditionally includes cement or gypsum, sand, as well as additional additives that are responsible for the properties of the product - drying speed, strength, preferred layer thickness. It is very important to follow all manufacturer's instructions. The main difference between the mixture for leveling a wooden floor is the presence of fibrous additives that are responsible for better adhesion to the surface, such as fiberglass. The features can also include the absence of casein in the composition - a substance that can destroy the structure of the tree. Also, polymeric modifiers may be present in the composition.

Required inventory

Self-levelling compounds are also called self-leveling floors, which vividly describes the way they are applied. If your room in the future may be subject to temperature fluctuations and high humidity, it is better to choose mixtures based on cement. Anhydride compounds are not ready for such a load. The purchase should be made at a hardware store, where they will tell you which samples interact better with wood, and how to calculate the required volume of the mixture. From necessary tools you should have: a bucket, a wide spatula, a needle roller and a mortar mixer. Proven manufacturers in this area: Knauf, Horizont, Vetonit, Ceresit, Prospectors, Volma, Paul Bolars.

Dilution of the mixture

Leveling a wooden floor with a self-levelling compound can be a real torture if the ratio of water to dry matter is not respected. The mixture is poured into the water gradually, mixing. It is very important to have time to mix the mixture and apply it without exceeding the time period of half an hour, since it is at this time that the mixture has best performance in terms of adhesion to the surface. If there is too little water, the mixture will begin to solidify and be distributed into granules-crystals even in the mixer, but if it is more than it should be, the self-leveling floor will dry for a long time.

This work is difficult to carry out alone, so it is better to invite specialists or friends who are competent in construction matters. The mixture costs a lot, but only improper mixing can render it unusable, because the frozen mixture can no longer be re-diluted with water and reused. Stir the mixture until the lumps are completely dissolved. It is better to isolate the room from flows fresh air by closing windows. Drafts and high humidity can adversely affect the hardening of the coating. The best temperature for work is from 5 to 25 degrees Celsius. If the mixture does not spread properly, use a roller. If its needles are shorter than the thickness of the floor, they will break up air bubbles without affecting the distribution of the mixture as a whole.

If you are making a floor in a room where there is no one that separates it from the next one, install limiters in advance that will keep the adjacent room clean. They can also be installed near plumbing fixtures if you plan on artistic processing.

It is quite possible to do such work with your own hands. Buying a quality mixture will ensure ease of work, efficiency - a good result.

Application of a self-levelling floor

Self-leveling floors have certain advantages. They are environmentally friendly and safe. Their thickness varies from a millimeter to several centimeters, which allows you to find your own solution. Their thickness does not take the height of the room, allowing you to freely dispose of its space. The result of the work is a perfectly even, smooth, durable coating which is ready for further work. You can install a floor heating system on it, or you can immediately lay finishing layer. Flooring can be any, since the self-leveling floor does not react with any material. The temperature of the medium and the temperature of the water with which the mixture is diluted are very important, it should be cold, at room temperature.

The work can take all day, as preliminary measures are necessary, and sometimes a multi-level pouring process. The leveling compound may leave debris that is unacceptable for a wood floor. It will take about an hour to clean the room for the finish coat.

Most mixes cannot be used as a topcoat and require a top coat of other materials. Some of them can be top-painted.

The arrangement of your housing must necessarily begin with a project of the premises, and it must be given a place not only finish coats, design solutions in color and accents, but also in basic construction work. You can’t build a castle in the sand, and you can’t get a safe and durable home without a similar foundation. Self-levelling compound is worth the money spent, good insulation and filling of voids and cracks is very important for a wooden floor. This material breathes, but at the same time becomes vulnerable, so only mixtures specially designed for wood can help solve the issue of quality repairs.