Do-it-yourself liquid floor screed. Self-leveling floor or screed which is better: what is the difference between a cement screed and a self-leveling floor

Consider visually two types of floor installation - semi-dry and wet (liquid) made by the usual method for subsequent flooring of the finish coating (tiles, porcelain stoneware, laminate, linoleum). The main causes of cracks are described on this page. Cracked screed The photo of the cracked screed was borrowed from the City of Masters finishers forum.

Cons of "liquid screed" - low strength, high shrinkage and numerous cracks

It looks like a normal wet screed. The photo clearly shows shrinkage cracks caused by an excessive amount of moisture in the cement mortar, such a screed does not meet the strength standards for subsequent laying of the finish coating, when walking or loads in the area of ​​​​the seams, individual pieces may move, deflection and bending of the screed, a dull sound, coiling. With the full operation of such a surface and laying tiles on it, linoleum is not permissible, it is fraught with the dismantling of the flooring, which serves as a “clean floor”

The screed made according to the semi-dry screed method, reinforced not with steel mesh, but with fiberglass, looks completely different, has a flat surface, strong in compression and tear, good adhesive properties to the surface when laying floor coverings.

The work on these photographs was carried out by our company at the construction site of the IT Technopark MIPT

The technology of such a screed differs from the usual amount of water in the manufacture of the mortar, which is sufficient only to hydrate the cement. Also, a semi-dry screed is laid on a separating film, the film cuts it off from the overlap, preventing rapid absorption of moisture from the mortar into the floor and the coupling of the solution with the base, which gives a floating effect, i.e. the screed is non-contact and does not have adhesion to the base, the only requirement that must not be neglected when laying on a polyethylene film, the thickness, the thickness of the screed must be at least 40 mm. How we make such a floor surface can be read

Unlike a concrete structure, a self-leveling floor screed does not need beacons when pouring and leveling the surface after hardening. Only one category of dry mixes has self-levelling properties - self-leveling floor.

For floor screeds, a budget mineral self-leveling floor based on gypsum and cement is usually used.

At the initial stage, an individual developer needs to decide on the terminology:

• in the normative documentation of the joint venture, the layer under the floor covering is called a screed;
• it is necessary for the manufacture of slopes (bath, shower room), masking of engineering systems (electrical, underfloor heating pipes, cold water, hot water, heating or sewerage), insulation and sound insulation, leveling floor slabs or providing rigidity over wooden black flooring;
• a self-leveling screed is made only from a self-leveling floor on a gypsum or cement binder.

Budget gypsum self-leveling mixture.

Individual developers choose a self-leveling self-leveling floor because of the convenience of manufacturing a screed (beacons are not needed, the drying time is much less than that of concrete).

In order for a self-leveling screed to last longer with your own hands, when choosing a self-leveling floor, you should focus on the table below:

Screed type	Purpose	Room humidity	Peculiarities	Base material
plaster	house, apartment	dry	quick dry	concrete
cement-gypsum	house, apartment, balcony, sauna	dry	rough surface	concrete, wood flooring
polyurethane-cement	street, house, apartment, garage	with any humidity	rough surface	concrete, wood flooring
acrylic-cement	Street, house, flat	with any humidity	rough surface	concrete, wood flooring

Unlike concrete screeds, a structure made of self-leveling mixtures can be brought to zero and not reinforced.

Self-levelling screed technology

Due to the short life of the self-levelling floor mortar, the preparation of the subfloor must be completed completely before the preparation of the mixture. The volume is pre-calculated, bags with dry mix are prepared in the required quantity and opened in an adjacent room.

If necessary, insulation, reinforcing mesh and contours of a water-heated floor are laid. One room is poured at one time, the spiked roller and paint shoes must be prepared in advance.

Preparatory work

In order for self-leveling compounds to have the resource declared by the manufacturer, it is necessary to prepare the base and determine the layer thickness. To do this, perform several operations in strict sequence:

For screeding with a self-leveling floor, lining paper is spread on the surface on the boardwalk of the subfloor with an overlap of strips of 8 cm at least.

The main problem in the repair / redevelopment is the presence of partitions or false panels made of plasterboard:

• on the one hand, it is forbidden to rely on screeds;
• on the other hand, drywall loses its strength when absorbing moisture, which is inevitably present in rooms with wet processes.

The frame of the partition from the profile is assembled before the manufacture of the screed.

Therefore, it is recommended to build a frame from a galvanized profile for a false panel or a partition as a whole. Sheathe it only at the lower level with GKL strips 20–30 cm high, install the rest of the drywall after the screed has completely dried.

Preparing the mixture

To eliminate the errors of self-manufacturing of the self-leveling floor, the self-leveling mixture has instructions for use on the packaging. It is recommended to use large containers, inside of which a bag of self-leveling floor will fit, taking into account the required amount of water in its entirety.

After adding the mixture to water, primary mixing and settling (usually 5-15 minutes), the bulk floor is stirred again with a mixer.

Attention: If the volume of water is indicated incorrectly (found in little-known brands), it is necessary to calculate the proportions empirically, ensuring a spreadability of 1:3. In this case, the solution from the cap of a 1.5 liter bottle, poured onto glass, should be three times the corresponding size of the container.

Surface application

Pour the self-levelling mixture prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions should begin at the corner farthest from the door. Despite the fact that the solution spreads perfectly under the action of gravitational forces to a horizontal level, it is necessary to additionally equalize the thickness of the layer with a doctor blade, spatula or rule.

The distribution of the mixture over the base.

Since the viability of the mixture is rather low, it should not be delayed with its application to the surface. Beacons-beacons are transferred to new areas after preliminary leveling of the solution, so they do not need to be purchased in large quantities.

Air removal

When mixed, the self-levelling floor inevitably dissolves air, which must be removed after the mixture has been leveled over the surface of the base. Otherwise, the remaining bubbles will reduce the performance of the screed.

The operation is done by hand using a spiked roller, which evenly rolls the entire flooded surface of the structure. To walk on a liquid solution, paint shoes are used, fastened with straps to the master's shoes.

Air removal with a roller.

With the contact method of pouring, the adhesive strength of the bulk self-leveling floor with the base must be more than 1.5 MPa. If the package indicates a lower value, you should not buy such a product. If the screed is made on a separating layer, the developer must pay attention to another characteristic of the dry mixture - compressive strength. According to the standards of SP 29.13330, this parameter for the screed must be above 20 MPa.

Thus, when choosing a bulk floor for a self-leveling screed, it is necessary to take into account the amount of work, the type of finish, the purpose and humidity inside the room. Such materials are specially designed to reduce labor costs and the qualifications of the home master. Therefore, all work can be done on their own.

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Self-levelling flooring is one of the best achievements of science and technology. You can make a self-leveling floor with your own hands, but you should think carefully before doing this, because this work has many nuances. This floor has many positive qualities. The technological pause after the creation of the screed will be very small. The finished coating is waterproof, the floor has excellent hygienic properties. The texture of this floor is smooth. The bulk base is plastic and elastic. It has a small weight. So you can make a self-leveling floor even on a wooden floor.

This technology allows builders to level the floor. The self-levelling screed spreads quickly over the floor surface, resulting in a perfectly smooth finish.

Perfect smooth finish

The self-leveling floor is quite unpretentious in terms of the quality of the base. But there is an exception - this is the moisture content of the base. Water vapor that passes through the filling destroys the polymer films. As a result, the coating may begin to crumble. Therefore, it is very important to create a reliable waterproofing before filling. Base preparation includes the following steps:

1. Closing cracks;
2. Primer;
3. Waterproofing;
4. Thermal insulation and mesh laying;

Small cracks can be repaired in the usual way.

Crack repair

You can learn how to close such cracks in any construction video.

If the cracks are too large, it is worth checking first whether the coating is completely destroyed. If there is such a process, then the alignment is not worth the effort, because the house is in disrepair. If there is no destruction, then when closing cracks, perpendicular cuts are created to them. With their help, they are made that are able to reduce the load. Waterproofing will be required in all cases.

Waterproofing

Bulk floor should breathe only around the perimeter. So you will need any special material, for example, waterproofing. Before you start laying the film, you need to paste over the corners. They are glued with polystyrene foam tape.

If you decide to create a self-leveling floor on a wooden surface, then first you should check the surface for play. To do this, you can use a homemade plumb line. The device must be placed in the center of the room. The nose of the load should almost reach the floor. After that, you need to walk around the room and track the deviations of the load. The value of the game can be defined as the height of the suspension to the width or length of the room.

The limit is 1.2 mm per 1 m.

If the deviation is greater, then the flooring must be removed, and not its place to lay a new one. If the flooring is stable and of high quality, then you need to close the gaps. You can do this with wood putty. After that, it will be necessary to carry out waterproofing.

Required Tools

In order to level the floor with a self-leveling mixture, you will need tools such as:

• cement mixture;
• Primer;
• Container for mixing the solution;
• needle roller;
• Drill.

Solution preparation is the most responsible procedure. On our site you can find many videos with cooking instructions.

But some of them may not affect important nuances.

Solution preparation

Temperature. The operating temperature range is from 15 to 30 degrees. If you make a self-leveling floor in the cold, then it will turn out to be fragile. Pouring in hot weather is much worse. Temperature sensitive mixtures.

Best before date. The shelf life of finished cement mixtures is from 6 months to a year. Do not use expired mixtures. Ultimately, all this will affect the quality of the floor.

Water. In the instructions, a certain amount of water for kneading is written, while some tolerance is made. And this admission is not just done. If the conditions are favorable, then with the help of this tolerance it is possible to control the fluidity of the solution. If the temperature in the room is at the limits of permissible limits, then with the help of tolerances, the mixture is regulated by temperature. In the cold, use a minimum of water. In hot weather, the opposite is true.

Sand. Cement-sand mixtures are not stored, so you will need to buy sand separately. The instructions will tell you exactly what kind of sand you need. It is important to strictly follow the requirements. If there are no clear instructions, choose river sand.

The kneading process. It is necessary to mix the solution in portions in a bag or half a bag. Initially, water is poured into the vessel and only then the cement composition is poured. The kneading is done with a drill at low speeds - 100-300 rpm. The nozzle should be moved in a circle up and down. It is better not to touch the walls and bottom. Mix the solution for about 4 minutes. After the solution will have to ripen. This will take another 4 minutes.

Before you start pouring the floor, you need to clean the surface of dirt. It is especially important to clean all the cracks from various debris.

Clean the surface of contaminants

For better bonding, the entire surface of the floor is treated with a primer.

If you decide to make a self-leveling floor with your own hands, then it is better to invite a partner for this work. So it will be easier for you to fill the surface, and the result will be better.

Work sequence:

1. The first batch is created;
2. After the first solution is ready, it must be left to ripen. Next, you need to start cooking the second in another container. It is important to rinse the mixer before the second batch;
3. 20-30 seconds before the second batch is ready, we take the first one and pour it into the far corner. The empty bucket should be given to a partner so that he starts making the third batch. At this time, you can take a special tool - a squeegee - and start accelerating the first batch;

1. While the third batch is ripening, fill in the second and accelerate it;
2. The cycles will be repeated until the entire area is filled.

After these procedures, the floor may appear even. But you should not finish the work ahead of time, the self-leveling floor will need to be further leveled, namely, to remove air bubbles from the solution. If you forget about this stage, then the bubbles will definitely begin to float over time and the surface will be uneven.

Deaeration is the final stage of pouring.

It must be carried out using a special needle roller. Please note that there is a special visor above the roller.

Special needle roller

It is intended not so much to protect clothes from splashes, but to protect the solution itself. Moisture from spray evaporates very quickly. If it gets on the solution, then irregularities are created in it. They will be clearly visible. But at this stage, it will no longer be possible to level the surface. The floor will have to be refilled. In small areas, you can use a homemade piercing - an ordinary plank with nails. By the way, she can also disperse the solution.

Homemade piercing

On a large area - from 10 squares - you should not save. As you can see, making a self-leveling floor yourself is quite simple. In the process, you can use the video and instructions. All you need is knowledge and patience. And then you will get a self-leveling floor of high quality and durable.

Video

In this video you will learn how to properly apply a self-levelling floor screed.
Thanks to this material, you will get a lot of useful information.

Photo source: stroysyaneboysya.ru; consultinfo.net

The bulk floor is poured to level the surface. When the subfloor is flooded, flaws are revealed in it in the form of an uneven surface relative to the level and small depressions in the form of pits. This material will tell and show how to fix such defects.

So, I practiced two ways to level the surface using a self-leveling floor and a leveling screed. Consider their pros and cons.

Tools:

• brush 15cm wide
• capacity 40 liters
• drill mixer
• needle roller for self-leveling floor
• spatula wide, narrow
• notched trowel, with a tooth height of 8-10 mm
• level
• rule
• trowel

Work progress

First way. self-leveling floor

Before starting work with a self-leveling floor, the surface must be cleaned of dust. It is advisable to do this with a vacuum cleaner. After that, we prime the surface with liquid glass (LS).

Its absorbency in the base of the floor depends on the consistency of the ZhS. It is necessary to dilute it in a ratio of 1 to 2 (one part of water to two parts of ZhS) and treat the surface, preferably in 2-3 layers. The time interval before the next application should be about 1 hour. Works are carried out at a temperature not lower than + 10 C.

After the LS has dried, the surface should take on a characteristic shade, as after applying varnish.

We do this so that when applying the self-leveling floor, all the moisture contained in the mixture is not absorbed into the floor, and the mixture itself does not dry out, but gradually hardens. Also, this procedure will serve as a kind of waterproofing of the floor.

Before kneading the self-leveling floor mixture, we make a wooden sole to fit the size of the shoe with self-tapping screws screwed into it. This is done so that after applying the self-leveling floor, you can walk on it without stepping on the whole foot.

We knead with a mixer the finished mixture of the self-leveling floor.

We carry out this work strictly according to the instructions indicated on the bag.

After that, pour the mixed mixture onto the floor and level with a spatula.

This also contributes to the uniform smoothing of the mixture along the plane.

In my case, after the floor is dry.

Cobweb-shaped cracks appeared on the floor, which means that the temperature regimes indicated on the bag were not observed.

To eliminate them, you can stick a grid for puttying facades.

First, apply the adhesive with a notched trowel.

In this way, we will fix the problem.

After the tile adhesive had dried, the linoleum was laid.

The second way. Floor leveling screed

To begin with, we perform the same work with ZhS, that is, we prime the surface. Then we prepare a cement-sand mixture (CPS), which includes sifted sand (coarse-grained), cement, tile adhesive in a ratio of 3 × 1x1 (three parts of sand, one cement, one tile adhesive).

The process begins with the installation of beacons by level. Next, apply the DSP with a notched trowel. The mixture must be rubbed into the floor surface.

After that, we level the DSP applied to the floor with the rule. While it is not completely frozen, rub the surface with a trowel.

You should get a uniform, even surface.

After the leveling screed has dried, for strength, we additionally impregnate it with liquid glass, diluted with water in a ratio of 2 to 1.

After the liquid glass dries, linoleum or any other coating spreads.

Conclusions about working with self-leveling floor and leveling screed

Bulk floor. It is easy and simple to work with him. Its thickness can be from 3 to 10 mm, but the price for the finished mixture is high. The need to follow the instructions for working with the mixture is also a minus.

Leveling strap. If you have enough time and budget, this is a suitable option.
Reminder: the main disadvantage of the leveling screed is that it reduces the height of the room by 10-15 mm, while the thickness of the self-leveling floor can be only 3 mm.

To level the floor surface or form the base of the floor on the ground surface, a screed is performed. Depending on the type of surface, its condition, the need for heat and sound insulation or the placement of additional structures, the surface preparation process and the characteristics of the screed, as well as the choice of materials, differ. Having correctly chosen the technology and materials for yourself, it is quite simple to do the floor screed with your own hands. Now we will analyze all types of wet screed and how to form it in stages. You can learn how to form a dry screed.

Varieties of "wet" screeds

It is possible to divide the floor screed device into four main types according to the features of surface preparation, its type and the formation of the final screed layer:

1. Knitted. The most common option for an apartment, where the screed is made on top of the floor slabs.
2. With waterproofing layer. This type is necessary in the bathroom or in the kitchen, where the humidity is constantly high and there is a possibility of a large volume of water falling onto the floor. In this case, the screed layer is formed on top of the laid waterproofing material.
3. With a layer of thermal insulation. By default, a layer of thermal insulation is required when forming a screed over the ground. Also, if necessary, it can be used in apartments and houses for protection from the basement or other unheated premises.
4. With final filling. In this case, after the main screed is completed, a thin layer of liquid mortar is used, which independently forms a perfectly flat surface. This is necessary to level the floor under the laminate or linoleum, which are sensitive to any, even small, irregularities. It can also be formed using a more liquid solution, which, under the force of gravity, will independently distribute over the entire surface. However, it is not recommended to use only bulk floors separately without forming the main screed.

An example of a standard floor screed device:

How thick should the “correct” screed be?

In any case, you should decide on the total thickness of the screed and, specifically, with the use of cement or concrete screed, which must be formed on the floor. It all depends on the type of flooring or the required value of thermal insulation and strength. The limitation can be both the load of the screed on the floors, because it is the main technological part of the structure, and the resulting load on the screed itself. In case of erection of a new building, it is necessary to adhere to the instructions of the construction project. If you need to make a floor screed with your own hands instead of the old one, then you should observe the characteristics of the old one and improve it within acceptable standards by adding thermal insulation or installing underfloor heating if necessary.

The thickness of the solution layer can vary from 25 to 80 mm, but not less, otherwise the screed will subsequently turn out to be fragile and fragile.

At this stage, it is important to correctly calculate the amount of required materials. For a layer over 30 mm, it is better to use concrete based on sand, gravel, crushed stone, etc., only it can form such a thick layer and not crack. In any case, it is better to familiarize yourself with the phased implementation of the screed using all types for the most complete understanding of the process.

Stages of preparation for the main work

Basic surface preparation

The old screed is dismantled, especially if it already has cracks or damaged areas. Floor slabs are cleaned of dirt and dust and primed. The primer is poured directly onto the floor and leveled over the entire surface with a roller or brushes. After that, it will take up to 5 hours before the primer dries.

For soil bases, a layer of expanded clay or sand is formed on a base cleared of vegetation. Expanded clay is still subsequently also covered with a layer of sand. The thickness of the sand layer must be at least 10 cm. The entire surface is compacted. If necessary, the layers of the embankment are wetted with water for normal shrinkage. With the use of an expanded clay mound, an uneven floor screed will also be much cheaper and easier, because less mortar will be used.

At the same stage, installation and wiring of sewer drain pipes or water pipes is carried out if work is carried out in a bathroom or toilet. Subsequent layers of thermal insulation and waterproofing are laid bypassing all communications.

thermal insulation

To do this, use either a mound of expanded clay, or dense slabs of expanded polystyrene. The main thing is that the insulation is rigid. Expanded clay has slightly worse thermal and sound insulation parameters, but is more durable and reliable. In most cases, it is enough. To form a screed on the ground surface, insulation is mandatory. For floor slabs in the apartment - only if necessary.

Waterproofing

The waterproofing layer can be laid strips of thick film or roofing felt rolls. Strips of material are overlapped by about 10-15 cm and overlapping walls by 10 cm, including outgoing water pipes and sewer drains, if any. In the latter case, it is necessary to additionally lubricate the pipes and thermal insulation material with a sealant or mastic to a level higher than the solution will be poured. Waterproofing is necessary for areas such as the bathroom, toilet and kitchen. In other rooms, it can be formed only to protect the apartment on the ground floors from the cold and dampness of the basements.

Read more about waterproofing floors and walls using the example of a bathroom.

Reinforcement

The screed layer is reinforced with reinforcement only in cases of laying on the ground. It is carried out by forming a mesh from welded reinforcement or a special steel mesh. As an alternative, an additive in the form of fibrin, which is a fibrous material made of metal or plastic, can be added to the concrete or cement mortar.

Installation of additional equipment

If it is necessary to install a system of underfloor heating or distribute wiring, then this is done at this stage. All work is carried out taking into account technological features. Pipes for or heating elements for electric underfloor heating are laid and fixed.

Screed process

Arrangement of lighthouses

Examples of beacons placement (clickable)

In order for the concrete or cement floor screed to be even, a beacon system is used. These are special rail profiles that need to be distributed over the floor. In order to install the beacon rail, you should use the same solution that will subsequently form the screed itself. Stepping back from the wall by 20 cm, screws are screwed into the floor in a straight line parallel to the wall. The heads of the screws should end up in the same level. This can be checked using a manual or laser level. The height at which the caps are located must be lower than the resulting screed layer by 6 or 10 mm, depending on the height of the rails. The distance between the screws is best chosen within 60-80 cm, so that the beacons installed on them do not subsequently sag.

The next line with screws should be placed already at a distance of 1-1.5 m from the previous one (the distance should be slightly less than the length of the rule, which will level the layer of concrete or cement mortar). A solution is applied to the screws and a beacon rail is installed on top of it. Having finally set all the slats in the same plane in terms of level, it is necessary to wait until the solution on which they lie is completely seized and dried.

Beacons must be used in any case. Even if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room in which the work is done is very small, you should still strengthen at least two beacons, with which leveling will be done.

Video: a good way to arrange beacons

Preparation of mortar for screed

To do this, you can use ready-made mixtures for leveling the floor, which have recently appeared in large quantities on sale with various properties and features.. For their preparation, it is necessary to strictly adhere to the instructions for use.

For a conventional cement-sand screed, the proportions of cement and sand are 1: 3. For better strength, you can add a bag of tile adhesive mix. As a result, the resulting solution should not spread much, but should not be dry either.

It is best to order ready-made concrete, it will come out both more economically and better. Moreover, a concrete screed is justified only for private houses and the first floors of apartment buildings, so there should be no problems with delivery. It is rare that a thick layer of screed is required on the upper floors of a building over floor slabs.

Filling the floor

It is best if the entire process of pouring the floor in one room is completed in one go. It should be borne in mind that the cement mortar sets in about 40-60 minutes, after which it will no longer be possible to level it normally, and even more so, water cannot be added to it. This will significantly affect the quality of the result.

The strip between the beacons on the far side of the door is filled first. Using the rule, the surface is leveled. In this case, the rule rests with its edges on the beacons and, with slight movements from side to side, is drawn along them. If necessary, a solution is added in places where it is not enough. Then you can fill in the following lanes between the beacons. After leveling the next section, a layer of mortar should be pierced with a wire in some places. This is necessary to release air that may have entered the mortar during spreading and leveling.

Only after a few hours, or even a day in the case of using a conventional cement-sand mortar, you can stand on the surface of the screed without much fear. It is best to use a sheet of chipboard or drywall to form a supporting island. At this time, you can remove the beacons from the screed layer and seal the resulting grooves with mortar. The surface in these places is leveled with a trowel or grout.

Video: an example of pouring a screed

Grinding

When concrete is used as a pouring material, it should be sanded after complete drying. This will help level the surface and prepare it for any floor covering. Leveling the concrete floor can only be done in places where irregularities are especially noticeable using a grinding wheel mounted on an angle grinder (grinder).

Actions for self-leveling floor

If you need a self-leveling floor, then in order to get a perfectly flat surface, you should form another surface layer of the solution. For this, either a sufficiently liquid cement-sand mortar is prepared in a ratio of 1: 2.5, or special mixtures are used. You can add a little starting putty to the cement-sand mortar.

Previously, the entire floor area must be additionally primed and moistened. The solution is poured over the entire surface of the room immediately and leveled with a mop or rule. Distributing it evenly to the floor, time is given for complete drying. At the same time, the solution, under the force of gravity and due to its fluidity, will independently acquire a perfectly flat surface.

Particular attention should be paid to the final leveling of the mortar under the walls, because in these places, if it does not dock with the wall surface, a small tubercle is formed, which subsequently dries up in a wave. An ideally flat surface is perfect for mounting floor coverings such as: linoleum, laminate, carpet, carpet tiles, etc., since small irregularities of the rough screed can show through them.

Points to Consider

• The surface of the screed will be completely ready for further work only a week or two after its formation. It will be a mistake to start subsequent work until the screed is completely dry.
• In no case should you speed up the drying process of the solution. After all, the main strength of concrete and cement mortar is not due to the evaporation of water, but due to cohesion and adhesion. On the contrary, if during the first day it seems that the surface is too dry, it is better to moisten it with a roller. It will take a whole month to completely dry the concrete or cement screed, during which the room should be protected from drafts and mechanical damage. But the result is a reliable and durable screed that can last the longest possible operational period. If such a long waiting time is not suitable for any reason, then it is better to pay attention to the formation of the screed in a semi-dry or dry way. The latter can be done in one day and immediately continue the formation of the finishing floor covering. It should only be borne in mind that a dry screed has a number of limitations and features in terms of operation and determination of places of use.