How to insulate a bath from the inside - brick, frame, from blocks and from logs. Thermal insulation of a bath from the inside - a diagram How to insulate a bath inside a wall ceiling

In order for the bathhouse to please with warmth, absence of drafts and dampness, it is required to properly insulate the walls, floor and ceiling. You also need to know which insulation is best used for outdoor or indoor work.

Basic requirements for the material for bath insulation.

1. Moisture resistance.
2. Fire resistance.
3. High vapor barrier.
4. Resistant to decay.
5. Resistance to deformation with a sharp change in temperature.

Materials that can be used for indoor and outdoor use are divided into three types.

Also, heaters can be divided by composition and filling.

When insulating a bath, it is required to sheathe all planes of the room with insulation: floor, walls and ceiling. Only in this case there will be no heat leaks and water procedures will be as comfortable and pleasant as possible.

Bath insulation should be started from the floor. As a rule, in rooms with high humidity, the arrangement of two types of floors is practiced: leaking and continuous. Solid structures are complemented by a central drain, and the leaking ones are equipped with a crate, under which water flows into the drain, mounted below the level of the finished floor.

The floor under the wooden crate, through which water flows out, resembles a multi-layered sandwich made of various materials. All materials for insulation must be installed sequentially.

Step 1

To equip leaking floors with insulation, you need to dig a hole 60 cm deep. The dimensions of the hole should match the perimeter of the washing room or steam room.

Step 2

The bottom of the pit must be flat and dry. At the bottom, you need to pour a pillow of sand and tamp it carefully. The height of the pillow is 5-6 cm.

Step 3

Foam plates are laid on top of the sand. The material must be at least 20 cm wide. The joints of the slabs must be carefully matched to each other, there must be no gaps.

Step 4

A solution is poured over the slabs, consisting of a mixture of cement and finely crushed polystyrene, 50-60 mm thick. The solution should dry.

Step 5

A waterproofing material is laid on top of the concrete screed; ordinary roofing material can be used. The edges of the roofing material should overlap the walls.

Step 6

A cement screed is poured onto the roofing material, into which vermiculite is added 1 to 1. Screed thickness - 50 mm.

Step 7

Reinforcement. For these purposes, a reinforcing mesh is laid on the screed.

Step 8

A concrete screed is poured over the mesh again, to which fine gravel has been added, the recommended layer thickness is 50 mm.

Step 9

Installation of posts to support the wooden floor.

Step 10

Floor covering with technical gaps through which water can escape.

Important: the installation of the drain pipe must be carried out before starting the insulation. The last layer of the screed must be poured at a slight incline towards the drain so that water does not accumulate on the concrete floor.

Warming of continuous floors in the bathhouse is carried out in the same way as in residential buildings.

Insulation is best laid during construction work. It is optimal to build a double floor structure: rough and finish.

Insulation that is most suitable in terms of technical characteristics and price, for example, mineral wool, is located between the finishing and rough layers of the boards. It is recommended to lay a waterproofing material on top, which will prevent the insulation from getting wet.

It's important to know! It is best to install ceramic tiles that are resistant to high humidity in the washing room.

Internal wall insulation in baths built from various materials

Brick baths are insulated during construction. You can use both bulk and slab-like material. Loose insulation, such as expanded clay, is covered with layers, between which lime mortar is poured. Layer-by-layer filling reduces the thermal conductivity of the walls by filling the voids with mortar.

Insulation in the form of slabs is attached to the walls using special fittings. It is recommended to additionally attach a vapor barrier on top of the plates, which protects the insulation from moisture and high temperatures.

Panel and frame baths are insulated using lightweight materials that do not create additional stress on the frame. Polyfoam, expanded polystyrene, reed or fiberboard plates are the best insulators for frame structures. The material is fixed to the walls; there should be no gaps between the slabs. On top of the insulation, a vapor barrier layer must be installed, which prevents the absorption of moisture by the plates.

For the insulation of walls and ceilings made of natural wood, the most successful option is glass wool mats or mineral slabs.

Also, slabs with a one-sided foil layer - isover, ursa - are in special demand - these materials perform two functions at once: they are a vapor barrier and a heater.

In regions with a cold climate, it is practiced to use several types of insulation materials at once, which helps to minimize heat loss.

For internal insulation of a bath from a bar, the following materials and tools are required:

• insulation in the form of slabs;
• vapor barrier film or isover;
• construction tape;
• beams with a section of 50 to 50 mm for a double frame;
• lining for finishing walls;
• self-tapping screws;
• screwdriver;
• hammer.

Step 1

Assembling the frame from beams. Mats with insulation will be attached to the inside of the frame. The recommended pitch of the lathing is 50 by 50 cm. The beams are screwed to the log walls and ceiling of the bathhouse with self-tapping screws.

Step 2

Placement of insulation inside the frame. Plates should fit snugly against the beams. It is important that the thickness of the insulation is no more than 5 cm.

Step 3

All slabs placed inside the frame must be secured. For walls, building wide tape is best suited for these purposes. All joints between the timber and the insulation are glued with adhesive tape. To fix the slabs to the ceiling, you need to purchase plastic disc-type dowels. It is also recommended to seal the seams with tape.

Step 4

An isover or other vapor barrier with foil is mounted on top of the main insulation.

Step 5

On top of the isover, a crate made of timber is stuffed. The second lathing will perform 2 functions: provide an air gap and serve as a frame for fixing the lining.

Step 6

Fastening the lining.

Video - Ways of insulating a bath from the inside

It is recommended to install insulation material from the street side on the walls of the bath in several cases: if the air temperature in winter is constantly below 20 degrees (regions with a cold climate) or if the bath room is connected to the heating system of the house. It is also recommended to additionally insulate structures that are built of blocks or bricks.

It is considered impractical to fasten insulation to the walls of a bathhouse made of logs or beams, especially in regions with a temperate and warm climate, but it is imperative to seal all cracks and joints between wooden crowns and beams. For these purposes, felt, jute ropes, moss or special silicone sealants are used.

Bricks and blocks are affordable building materials, which is why they are often used to build bathhouses.

The thermal conductivity of bricks and blocks is quite high, due to which they do not retain heat well. Accordingly, in saunas built from these materials, it is recommended to carry out double insulation: outside and inside.

Step 1

Fastening the frame. For the frame, you can use a wooden beam or a metal profile. The frame is attached to the anchors.

Step 2

Insulation is placed between the frame battens: mineral wool, polystyrene or expanded polystyrene.

Step 3

All joints between the insulation and the frame are sealed with reinforcing tape.

Ideally, you need to mount two layers of insulation. The second layer of material should overlap the seams of the first. In this way, heat losses are absolutely minimized and drafts in the washing and steam rooms are prevented. But this method is not popular due to additional material costs.

Step 4

Installation of waterproofing film. A moisture and windproof protection is attached on top of the insulation.

Step 5

On top of the film, strips or special brackets are stuffed. Finishing materials are attached to them: siding or lining. It is required to leave a technical gap (5-6 cm) between the film and the finish for air circulation. The air cushion will help prevent condensation and mold growth on the inside of the finishing material.

A properly insulated bath retains heat well for a long time. With the correct selection and consistent fastening of all materials, there are no drafts, dampness and an unpleasant odor in the premises.

Video - Expanded polystyrene. Advantages and disadvantages.

When building a traditional Russian or Finnish bath, you need to take care of high-quality insulation of the building in order to prevent large heat losses through walls, ceilings and floors in winter. Otherwise, it will be difficult to heat the steam room properly, and the fuel consumption will turn out to be unreasonably high. Not to mention the comfortable conditions for people washing there. It is not difficult to insulate a bath, but you need to have an idea of ​​how to do it correctly and what materials can be used. You can learn about all the nuances of the process from this article.

What kind of insulation to choose?

If you study the issue deeper, it turns out that the main difficulty lies in choosing a suitable insulation for the correct thermal insulation of the bathhouse building in general and the steam room in particular. The reason is simple - none of the many modern materials on the market are suitable for insulating a steam room inside. Moreover, it is simply unacceptable to use foam, foam and other polymers, as well as mineral wool for this purpose.

The bath is intended to improve the health of a person - this is an axiom. Inside the steam room, as well as other adjacent rooms, high temperature and humidity are provided - this is one of the conditions for the healing procedure. Accordingly, the internal insulation for a bath should not emit any harmful substances when heated, which cannot be said about the vast majority of modern materials.

When heated above 60 ° C (and in a steam room it can be 110 ° C), all foamed polymers begin to emit harmful substances and even emit a specific smell. Therefore, with their help, it is possible to insulate the building of the bath only from the outside, but in no case inside. The same applies to various types of basalt and mineral wool, which include a phenol-based binder. There is nothing to say about rolled insulation based on glass wool.

For reference. Polymeric heaters that are not suitable for interior decoration include polystyrene, extruded polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, insulators made of expanded polyethylene (Izolon, Penofol) and other similar materials.

What is the best way to sheathe the walls from the inside in order to insulate the bath correctly and without harm to health? The answer lies on the surface - natural environmentally friendly materials, which were used by our ancestors. These include:

• sawdust with clay;
• wood;
• felt;
• flax, jute;
• reeds tied into mats;

Advice. There is an old folk way that has long been used by people in the villages. When the owners kept several cows, they prepared a lot of hay and straw for the winter. And they kept them, rolling them against the walls of a wooden house or a bath, thereby simultaneously insulating it for the winter.

Good modern heaters for baths and saunas are expanded clay and vermiculite, all others are suitable only for outdoor insulation, done by hand or with the help of specialists. Now that we have figured out the best way to make the interior decoration of the steam room, we can proceed to the very process of thermal insulation of the walls.

Bath insulation scheme from the inside

The way the work is done depends on what the building is made of. For example, a well-built log house does not need insulation at all, the thickness of the logs is quite enough. In an old chopped bathhouse, it may be necessary to seal and caulk the cracks between the logs. This is done with felt or other mezhventsovy heaters listed above. The same insulation procedure is done by hand in structures made of profiled or glued beams, if cracks appear.

In order to protect the walls of a wooden bath from the effects of high humidity, you can protect them with a vapor barrier made of foil. This does not mean foil-clad insulation made of foamed polyethylene, but pure foil, which is laid between the inner surface of the wall and the wood trim of the steam room. A simple technology is used here: the foil is nailed to a wooden surface using battens, as shown in the diagram:

The joints of the material are made with an overlap of at least 10 cm and are glued with aluminum tape for tightness. Later, interior trim elements are attached to the battens of the lathing. According to the same scheme, it is proposed to insulate baths built of bricks, gas silicate and foam blocks, since it is better to protect these building materials from moisture. That is, to lay a vapor barrier made of foil from the inside, and to carry out the main "cake" of insulation from the outside.

The most correct solution would be to abandon the idea of ​​insulating the bath from the inside, it is enough to lay a vapor barrier between the walls and the interior decoration. At the same time, when installing external thermal insulation, it is possible to use any kind of insulation for baths or saunas without risking the health of your loved ones. In this case, it is worth starting with the insulation of the building foundation.

Thermal insulation of the foundation

It is more convenient to perform this procedure during construction, otherwise you will have to destroy the blind area and dig a hole around the structure at least 1 m wide and 30 cm deep.First, a layer of waterproofing is applied to the surface of the foundation, and then insulation plates are glued. This is where foamed polymers - polystyrene, or better - expanded polystyrene and polystyrene foam - will come in handy. In this case, the thickness of the insulating layer will be 50 mm.

Advice. To insulate the base and basement of the bath, you should not use various foil insulation, they are too thin and will not give the desired effect. Mineral wool will not work either, since it is hygroscopic and, after absorbing moisture, is not able to retain heat.

Also, insulation plates are laid under the blind area, thus protecting the soil near the building from freezing. Then the concrete pavement is poured and the external finishing of the basement is carried out, as shown in the example of sauna insulation from foam blocks:

How to properly insulate the floor and ceiling

As mentioned above, it is possible to produce thermal insulation inside the bath, including floors, only with the help of natural insulation. However, there is a technology according to which it is possible to insulate the floor with foam plastic and similar materials. To do this, you just need to isolate them from the inner space of the steam room and this is done by means of a concrete screed. With this option, the "pie" of the design looks like this:

First, an inclined surface with a footing is arranged, on which a waterproofing film is placed, and on top - a layer of foam. The insulation is covered with another layer of vapor barrier film, after which it is poured with a concrete screed. In the middle of the structure, a ladder with a drainage pipe is provided for drainage and water drainage.

It is possible to simplify the process by simply applying concrete mixed with balls of foam or vermiculite for the screed. Then it will simultaneously serve as an insulating layer, and there is no need to put whole slabs under the screed. Another option is to take expanded clay for floor insulation, it does not need to be isolated from the inner space of the bath. The method will work when the wooden floors on the logs rest on brick posts and you do not plan to arrange a ladder and drainage.

Expanded clay is poured between the logs into the cavity between the finishing and rough floors, or around brick posts. Remember that in order to ensure the required degree of insulation, a layer of expanded clay is needed 3-4 times thicker than foam. Otherwise, there will be no sense from it. This material is free-flowing and porous, therefore, after getting wet, it can dry out quickly enough, the main thing is that ventilation works.

Also, with the help of expanded clay, the ceiling is insulated in a bath with a cold roof. The only condition is that the ceiling lining must be strong enough and withstand the weight of the insulation. From above, from the side of the attic space, the material does not need to be covered with anything. If you want to insulate the attic above the steam room with sawdust, then they should first be mixed with clay and the resulting solution should be placed between the logs.

The fact is that water vapor will gradually penetrate from the steam room through the wooden floor and soak the sawdust layer. As a result, their thermal insulation properties will decrease, in addition, a fungus can start from moisture. Clay, on the other hand, does not allow moisture to pass through, and after drying, a good thermal insulation of the ceiling will be obtained. Sometimes a mixture of sawdust with cement is still used, but this option is not suitable for baths and saunas, the cement can absorb a lot of moisture and the ceiling will lose heat.

For reference. If any basalt insulation is considered for the internal insulation of the bath, then it is not suitable not only because of the release of phenol. Minvata also absorbs moisture well, no matter how hard you try to wrap it up, except that the plate material is sealed in polyethylene hermetically.

Don't forget about reed mats. In the bath, they can be used everywhere and insulate any structures, but it is important to ensure good ventilation and airing of the steam room to dry this natural material after washing procedures.

About door insulation

Due to the large temperature difference between the outside and the room inside the sauna, a large amount of heat can escape through the front door if it has loose porches or is poorly insulated. The first problem is solved by the old old-fashioned way - by stuffing felt strips onto the door frame elements. As for insulation, there are several ways.

The simplest one is to install a thermal curtain just outside the door. A string is attached to the wall above the entrance, on which a piece of dense fabric is suspended to the floor. In order for it to be pushed back, the suspension must be provided on clips or made with your own hands wire rings. Another way is to insulate a wooden door from the inside by upholstery with foam rubber or the same felt. From above, the material is covered with dermantine on nails, and a sealing bead is nailed around the perimeter of the box, as shown in the diagram:

Conclusion

As it turned out, the process of warming the enclosing structures of the bath is not as simple as it might seem. On the Internet, there are a lot of recommendations on how to carry out thermal insulation with various heaters, but there is no mention of their environmental friendliness and harmlessness to health. Meanwhile, this is the main factor influencing the choice of material, because from this point of view, the bath should be built flawlessly.

One of the main characteristics of a bath is how quickly it heats up. The bath should warm up quickly, the high temperature should remain in the steam room for a sufficiently long time. The comfort of being in the bath depends on this. Its efficiency also largely depends on this, since it takes much less fuel to warm up the bath.

Thermal insulation of the bath ceiling should include: decorative trim (lining), reflective waterproofing, insulation (mineral wool), lathing and steam insulation.

Considering all this, the insulation of the bath is very important, and the quality of the material does not matter. Is it possible to insulate the bath with your own hands? And how to do it right? Before answering this question, it should be borne in mind that insulation is a special procedure. This is due to the fact that inside the room, for a long time, an unusual humidity-temperature regime remains. That is, the insulation must have a certain number of different properties.

If we talk about the qualities of insulation, then it must first of all show resistance to moisture. It must not disintegrate on contact with liquid. The insulation should be resistant to high temperatures, under their influence it should not form.

The scheme of insulation of the walls of a wooden bath.

As you know, a dwelling house is insulated from the outside, and a bath should be insulated from the inside. Certainly, the insulation of the bath from the inside contributes to the internal preservation of the required degree of moisture, that is, the temperature in the steam room.

It should be borne in mind that the base of the bath is lined with mats, which are made of mineral wool from the inside, and the density of such material should be increased from the inside, and not from the outside. In order not to get confused in this, you should tell in more detail about all the works. If all this is taken into account, then warming the bath with your own hands will not be a big problem.

On the inside, a crate should be made on the surface. It is necessary to fix insulation to it, which is moisture resistant. It is very important that the joints between the slabs are properly sealed. To achieve this, it is recommended to use aluminum tape. When the insulating layer is finally done, it was the turn to apply a roll-on vapor barrier. All this must be done with the utmost care, then everything will work out.

When the heat and vapor insulation is completely ready, you can start finishing the bath. For this purpose, a lining is used, which is made of wood. It should be borne in mind that such material is the most suitable for covering a wooden bath.

Floor insulation scheme in the bath.

Now you need to take into account the materials that can be used in this case. They fall into two categories: organic and material. The first type includes all sorts of materials that are made on the basis of mineral wool. Such materials include a number of advantages: the service life is very long, very high resistance to decay and increased resistance to moisture. It should be noted that there is an increased degree of fire hazard, which is a very important factor for wooden baths.

A separate group of materials for warming a bath consists of various kinds of polystyrene (expanded polystyrene, polyurethane foam, and so on). But it should be borne in mind that certain materials of this category during operation in a certain temperature regime can deform and emit gases, which negatively affects the state of health. If materials made of polystyrene are chosen for warming a bath or sauna, then they should be chosen with special care. When such insulation materials are purchased, special attention should be paid to whether there are appropriate sanitary and hygienic certificates.

The best organic insulation is made from wood waste, reeds or peat. In this regard, the most common materials are reeds and fibrolite. When using such materials, financial costs are significantly reduced. It should be borne in mind that such insulation materials can be used only where in winter the outside air temperature cannot fall below 17 degrees. In order to reduce the fire hazard of such materials, it is imperative to protect them from fungus. For this, the plates must be treated with a special compound.

Back to the table of contents

Scheme of the features of the bath ceiling insulation.

As for materials that are made on an organic basis (fiberboard and chipboard), they can only be used to insulate the dressing room.

Organic plates that have thermal insulating properties can be made by hand.

You need to get small chips, shavings or sawdust for this. They must be mixed with lime or cement mortar, then they are laid in the formwork of the appropriate shape and height. It is very important to tamp them as tightly as possible. After the mass hardens, excellent heat-insulating plates are obtained, which have a low cost price.

In order to vaporize the steam room, it is best to use foil. It can be replaced by other materials, for example, nanoisol or isospane. But it should be borne in mind that the cost of such materials is quite high, which will negatively affect the budget. You can significantly save money, while the quality characteristics will not be affected. You can use the most common polyethylene film as a vapor barrier, its density should be at least 140 microns.

For warming a bath, it is permissible to use a variety of materials; there are many of them on sale today. When it comes to insulating a bath from the inside, it is recommended to use materials that combine 2 properties: they retain heat and vaporize the room.

The most common material in this regard is expanded polypropylene; foil must be applied to its surface. The fact is that such a material perfectly withstands temperatures up to 150 degrees. It is noteworthy that such material does not undergo deformation under the influence of constant dampness. When such insulation materials are purchased, care should be taken to ensure that they are labeled “for the sauna”. Similar materials can be used when insulating a bath outside. And all this is done without much difficulty.

External or internal insulation of the bath is necessary. This reduces fuel consumption and slows down the cooling process of indoor air. If the structure is not insulated, then it will take several times longer to heat the steam room to the desired temperature.

We insulate the bath with our own hands

Before building a building, it is necessary to calculate the means and forces for thermal insulation. It is best if the process of insulation begins during construction, more precisely, from laying the foundation.

Basic requirements for materials for bath insulation

Cheap solutions (impregnation, septic tanks) will not perform the role of good thermal insulation. Of course, moisture protection is necessary in any case, but this is a separate task. It is necessary to insulate the premises of the bath separately, using materials specially created for this. It is customary to pay the most attention to the inside of the washroom and steam room. The selection of insulation and thermal insulation is done with the expectation of a rough building material.

One of the most important requirements for insulation materials is non-toxicity. Because in the bath, under the influence of temperatures, toxic materials can easily cause poisoning. Non-hygroscopicity is also important; the insulation should in no case absorb moisture.

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When choosing a specific material, you need to rely on the following characteristics:

• resistance to steam and high temperatures;
• good fire-fighting properties;
• environmental friendliness;
• low hygroscopicity;
• the ability to maintain shape for a long period.

Types of heaters for a bath

All heaters presented on the construction markets are divided into three conditional groups:

Of course, even 50-60 years ago, only natural materials were used, which were brought from the nearby forests. This is foam, tow or moss. Today, these are already partly elite types of insulation, they cost serious money due to the need for manual collection. Many fans of natural materials insulate their buildings with rolled jute felt or tow. Such material can be purchased at hardware stores. With regard to moss, there are conflicting opinions regarding its use. They say that moss is not an ideal material for insulation, because it provokes the growth of mold or mildew. However, the moss itself does not have such properties; most likely, the fungus is formed due to improper cutting of a wooden structure or poor ventilation.

How to work with different types of buildings

The installation procedure and the required amount of work depend on the material from which the bath is built.

Insulation of log cabins

When working with a bar or log, you need to take into account the time for shrinkage, which can be 10 cm m more. Plus, gaps form between the crowns of such buildings, and it is in them that cold air blows in. It is best to insulate a log house or an assembly from a bar with jute fiber.

This material does not rot and has excellent thermal conductivity. Jute itself is a very fragile material, so manufacturers try to add flax fibers to it. But if friable material is already available, you can perform the classic caulking. There will be less work, and the building will probably retain more heat.

If it is decided to create a bathhouse from wood, then the insulation is laid during construction. It is better to isolate all problematic parts of the log house in the process.

The work is performed in the following sequence:

Thermal insulation of buildings made of bricks or foam blocks

If log cabins are insulated in a primitive way, then you will have to work hard with masonry. Yes, and more financial investments are specifically for work with insulation. Additional thermal insulation is necessary, otherwise a well-heated room will cool down in hours. Better to work on materials than stock up on fuel the rest of the time.

A widespread and proven method is a hinged ventilated facade. The working process does not take place from the inside, but from the outside of the bath. It is necessary to fix the layers of insulation to the walls, and sheathe the top with siding or clapboard. In the interval between the layers, a space filled with air is formed, due to which condensation will not form on the walls and rot and dampness will not follow.

The width of the frame for the ventilated facade is made greater than the thickness of the insulation, therefore, an air gap forms inside, preventing the formation of condensation

For a brick building, the following trick is often practiced: a steam room is made of wood indoors. Brick absorbs heat for a very long time, so it is easier to warm a small room in a steam room in a natural way if you use a small frame.

A 10x10 beam and a crate are enough. The process of insulating such an impromptu steam room inside a large bath is simple:

You can make it even easier: do not use a timber, but instead of it, immediately fix the insulation on the frame. In this case, an additional layer of waterproofing will be required.

Calculation and selection of materials and tools

We insulate all surfaces of the steam room, washroom and dressing room. And for this you will need:

1. Roll paper (for ceiling and walls).
2. Bar-rail (5x5, for installation of insulation on the ceiling and walls).
3. Foil.
4. Insulating tape.
5. Self-tapping screws.
6. Aluminum adhesive tape.
7. Insulation, calculated according to the area of ​​walls, ceilings and floors.

Of the tools you will need:

• screwdriver;
• level and plumb line.

Do-it-yourself sauna insulation

Any stages of warming are always performed according to the golden rule - they start from the ceiling and finish with the floors.

Ceiling insulation

Before starting work with the ceiling, you need to understand that in the steam room you need 2 times more material. After all, we are not working on a sauna, but on a Russian bath, where the steam should stay as long as possible.

The technology is as follows:

1. We cover the entire surface of the ceiling with overlapping roll paper.
2. We fix the bars on top of the paper, insulation will already lie between them.
3. We cover it all with foil. It will become a normal, safe isolation ward. But it is necessary to mount the foil without saving. It is important that all connections are closed.

   A layer of foil reflects heat, so the use of such a material for a bath is necessary

4. All joints on the foil are glued with aluminum tape. Usually, the foil for insulation comes with the material.
5. Fasten the edges and joints with several layers of adhesive tape. We check our work for leaks. If there is not enough money for such a heater, then the foil is sometimes replaced with cardboard or thick paper without paint.
6. Next, we mount the layers of insulation on the foil between the closed bars.

   On the ceiling, it is better to lay the insulation in two or three layers with overlapping joints

7. We close the front part of the ceiling with clapboard under a tree. This material is resistant to high temperatures and will not tar.

For a frame bath, it is necessary to put insulation on the ceiling and walls, but for a timber and log bath, you can do without it. For example, if a sauna is made of a log, it is enough to pre-sew up its ceiling with thick boards - at least 6 cm.Mineral wool is most suitable as a heater for the ceiling - only it must be laid in a layer of at least 15 cm.

Video: insulation and finishing of the ceiling from the inside

Wall insulation

The best solution for wall insulation is a construction set made of materials that can be easily repaired or replaced.

The structure of the insulation of the walls of the bath resembles the device of a roofing pie

Video: insulation and foil upholstery in a pair of rooms

Thermal insulation of the floor in the bath

Finally, let's work on the floor. Indeed, a large amount of heated air usually leaves the room through it. Expanded clay is most often used as insulation for floors - it is an inexpensive and reliable insulation that prevents mold and condensation.

It is cheaper, of course, to sprinkle everything with slag, but expanded clay is more environmentally friendly and weighs less. When installing wooden floors, the material is placed between the logs. If a concrete floor is poured, then expanded clay is placed between each concrete layer.

Let's analyze the usual cycle of work on the insulation of a concrete floor.

Video: features of the device of the concrete floor in the bath

In addition to the walls, floor and ceiling, they also pay attention to the insulation of doors, windows and window openings. They are treated with silicone sealants. It is customary to insulate external doors with natural materials. And it is not customary to save on them, otherwise in a few years, or even for the next season, everything will have to be redone.

The microclimate in the bath room is unique. Competent arrangement of the building involves the insulation of the bath inside. This process is laborious, but quite feasible independently.

Information on how to properly insulate the bath inside will allow the owner to greatly improve its characteristics. After the completion of the work, it will be possible to save on fuel and ensure the safety of thermal energy in the room.

When deciding how to insulate a wooden bath from the inside with your own hands, you should take into account a number of factors:

• properties of the material used to provide thermal protection;
• personal construction skills and capabilities;
• own preferences.

Features of materials for thermal protection

To determine how and what is the best way to insulate the bath from the inside, you need to know in what conditions the materials will be used:

1. First of all, you need to take into account that both in the steam room and in the washing room, the air is characterized by high humidity. In the dressing room, it is unlikely to be dry. Taking these factors into account, we can conclude: you need to choose a non-hygroscopic insulation or the material must have reliable vapor and waterproofing. Thermal insulation for a sauna in a steam room must be of high quality.
2. In the steam room, the air temperature often reaches more than 100 degrees. Insulation materials such as extruded polystyrene and polystyrene foam in conditions of strong heating will begin to emit substances harmful to human health. For the same reason, plastic and linoleum panels cannot be used to decorate the steam room. In the first case, products are subject to deformation even at 80 degrees of heat.
3. A significant part of thermal energy under high temperature conditions begins to be lost both due to heat exchange and in the form of thermal radiation. To prevent heat loss, the insulation for the bath on the walls from the inside must have a foil surface or a reflective layer consisting of foil must be provided in the thermal insulation scheme.

Insulation of different types of walls

The choice of how to insulate the walls of the bath from the inside depends on the type of material from which it was built:

1. If it is brick, stone or concrete products, thermal protection is required. The fact is that when there is no thermal insulation, the bath will have weeping walls and, as a result of temperature fluctuations, they will quickly begin to collapse. The thickness of the insulation should be chosen taking into account the parameters of the supporting structures and the climate in the region. Most often, experts recommend a 10 cm layer.
2. Is it necessary to insulate a wooden bath? On the one hand, the thermal protection of the building will not hurt, and on the other, wood can be called one of the best materials for the walls of the steam room and dressing room. Of course, it is required to insulate baths from a bar, with a wall thickness of no more than 15 centimeters. Sauna log buildings are thermally insulated when the cross-section of the log does not exceed 20 centimeters.

From the inside, walls of greater thickness are either not insulated, or heat protection is made with the arrangement of waterproofing and clapboard decoration. The lathing is arranged only if there are blockages on the walls.

The horizontally located strips of the vapor barrier are fastened with a stapler with a 5 cm overlap to prevent water from penetrating under the material. First, the lower canvases are hemmed. Polyethylene should not be used for vapor barrier due to the presence of high temperatures.

Selection of materials for insulation

Basalt wool is considered the best solution for insulating the bath from the inside. Rigid mats of 10 cm thickness are used. When thermal protection of the ceiling, the thickness of the thermal insulation layer should be about 15-20 centimeters, since heat loss mainly occurs through the ceiling.

To insulate the bath inside, you still need to have materials at your disposal:

1. For lathing... The most reliable option for brick or stone bath buildings is to build a frame from a profile used for drywall (read: ""). The CD ceiling profile is often chosen, and the UD guide profile is used for edging along the perimeter of the walls. The step of fixing straight suspensions is from 60 to 80 centimeters. The gap between the profiles must be made less by 1-2 centimeters compared to the width of the insulation plates. In wooden baths, bars are used as a profile.
2. For waterproofing... A heat-resistant foil material is required that is impervious to moisture and vapor. There is a large selection of such products on the construction market. For example, you can buy foamed polypropylene, designed for temperatures up to 150 degrees. This material is able to protect the walls of a room from dampness and reflect radiant heat, thereby reducing heat loss. So a 3 mm thick Penotherm layer provides a degree of thermal protection like a 150 mm bar.
3. For fine finishing... Usually they put the insulation in the bath under the lining, as in the photo. This material is produced for the final finishing from linden or aspen, since the products of these tree species are resistant to decay processes, do not heat up even at high temperatures, and retain their original appearance for a long time.

Thermal insulation of floors, windows and doors

When a decision is made on how to insulate a bathhouse inside with your own hands, the possibility of increasing the degree of thermal resistance at the ceiling and walls is taken into account. True, a cool floor and the presence of drafts also take a lot of heat.

To insulate the door leading to the steam room, a frame made of thick felt is attached to it, which will reliably cover the cracks. Wooden frames near the windows located in the steam room, dressing room and washing room are insulated with cotton wool.

As for plastic, it is not installed in places with high temperatures, but in other rooms you should not be afraid that polymers will undergo thermal decomposition. Self-adhesive foam strips are used to protect plastic windows.

The choice of products, the better to insulate the bath inside, depends on the type of floor covering. Expanded clay is poured onto the surface of the leaking wooden floor, and boards are mounted on top of the leveled backfill. It will be useful to understand how to insulate a bath from expanded clay concrete blocks from the inside so that problems do not appear later.

They begin to equip the concrete flowing floor by digging a pit 50 centimeters deep.

The layers of the thermal insulation structure are arranged from bottom to top in the following sequence:

• sand –5 centimeters;
• foam -20 centimeters;
• concrete mixed in a 1: 1 ratio with foam crumbs - 5 centimeters;
• waterproofing;
• concrete, combined with vermiculite in a ratio of 1: 1 (this is the name of a natural material with low thermal conductivity) –5 centimeters;
• reinforced screed -5 centimeters.

In the process of pouring the base, it is necessary to equip the slope. A boardwalk is mounted on top of the concrete screed on the logs.

In the case when a continuous floor covering is needed, a heat-insulating material is laid on top of the rough base with a layer of 10-20 centimeters, it can be mineral wool or foam. Then it is covered with waterproofing, not forgetting to overlap the walls. On top of this layer, a reinforced screed with a height of 5-10 centimeters is mounted.

Then, as a rule, tiles are laid. Despite the fact that the tiles do not heat up to a high temperature in the steam room, it is advisable to provide for the presence of wooden footrests to make the visit to the bath more enjoyable.

Arrangement of thermal protection of walls and ceilings

Insulation of the walls and ceiling of the bath from the inside is similar to how it is done in other rooms, with special attention should be paid to the reliability of laying the vapor barrier layer.

Stage one - creating the lathing... The procedure for insulating the ceiling in a bath from the inside assumes that the distance from the batten to the base of the wall or ceiling must be made slightly larger than the thickness of the material for thermal insulation.

When using galvanized profiles, this gap is adjusted using suspensions, and the bar is nailed with a lining, it can be a piece of a bar. For lathing made of wood, galvanized suspensions are also used.

The sequence of fastening the profile is as follows:

1. Along the perimeter of the walls or ceiling, the UD guide profile is fixed, observing a 60-centimeter pitch. It is mounted to a bar or logs with self-tapping screws, and to brick or concrete walls - with screws with plastic dowels.
2. The axes of the CD profiles are marked, taking into account the fact that the gap between them should allow laying the heat insulator plates without undercutting. Then the suspensions are attached to the wall, observing a step of 60-80 centimeters.
3. To install and fix the CD profiles to the suspensions, take metal screws 9 mm long. The free edges of the suspensions must be bent.

Stage two - installation of insulation... Basalt wool in slabs is placed between the bars (profiles). Similarly, the insulation of a ventilated facade or loggias is performed. Work must be done in a respirator (gauze bandage) and special glasses. The fact is that the small fibers of this material are volatile and, once on the mucous membrane of a person, greatly irritate it.

A standard sharp knife is used to cut the slabs. You should not accept the insulation during the installation process. Regarding how best to insulate the bath, you need to know that with a constant weight of the material, the less volume it has, the worse its heat-insulating qualities will be.

Stage three - the device of vapor waterproofing... The strips of material in the horizontal direction are fixed from bottom to top, observing a 5-cm overlap. The foil side of the insulation should be turned inside the room.

The method of fixing the vapor barrier depends on the material from which the crate is made. So, before insulating a steam room in a log bath, you need to stock up on a construction stapler. In the presence of a galvanized profile, the strips are fixed with double-sided aluminum tape.

To create a high-quality vapor barrier, the insulation not only needs to be fixed, all existing joints should be glued with the same tape. Then moisture will not be able to penetrate into the insulation.

Stage four - clapboard sheathing... To make the room cozy and beautiful after the completion of the insulation, it is necessary to finish the walls.

First, prepare the tools and materials necessary for the work, including:

• circular saw or electric jigsaw;
• drill - screwdriver;
• rasp (required when fitting and processing the edge of the lining);
• construction square (required for marking boards);
• level and plumb line (they are in demand when checking verticals and contours);
• metal clamps for fixing wooden lining;
• copper or galvanized screws, which are needed to fasten the cleats to the bars;
• self-tapping screws for metal;
• skirting boards made of wood for finishing corners.

When carrying out work, you need to take into account a number of points:

There should be a small gap between the lining and the vapor barrier layer. In addition, gaps (no more than 1-2 centimeters) are arranged along the edges of the ceiling, as well as in the upper and lower parts of the walls.

The extreme boards in each row of the lining should be fastened with screws through and through, and their caps will be closed by the plinth. All other boards will be held by the cleats.

The above procedure for carrying out the work allows both to insulate the old bath from the inside and a completely new building. Thermal protection of a sauna building is a very important stage, since the efficiency of the steam room depends on its quality. The main thing in the work is to take into account the slightest nuances and then the result will exceed expectations.