Is it possible to overlay a cesspool with white brick. Cesspool of brick: how to do it right

How is it done drain hole from a brick? The question requires detailed consideration, because without knowledge it is impossible to build such a structure. Today it is difficult for a city dweller to imagine home life without modern sewerage, instead of which a cesspool was built in the yard. But outside the city, such a design is still relevant. It will be useful for owners of country houses planning to build this ancient toilet on their own to find out the basic sanitary and hygienic requirements for a cesspool that are imposed by state authorities today, the main stages of the construction itself, the advantages and disadvantages, as well as the rules of maintenance. What is a drain pit in general and how laborious can the task be?

To equip a drain pit, you must carefully study the rules and requirements for its arrangement.

Despite the seeming unhygienic, from a height of view modern man, for which the city sewer system with all its amenities and hygiene standards is an indispensable attribute, an outdoor toilet can be just as convenient and completely harmless in terms of hygiene, provided that the drain pit is maintained and built in accordance with special regulations.

First you need to dig a hole.

A brick drain pit must necessarily have a bottom so that sewage does not seep into the soil, poisoning it. A small amount of waste does not harm the environment: nature is able to process waste itself, but a cesspool will accumulate much large quantity of these wastes than is determined in nature in its natural conditions, so such a pit is toxic to the surrounding soil and ground water.

Care of the toilet will need to be thorough: frequent calls of vacuum trucks - once or 2 times a week, depending on your individual everyday characteristics, to clean the filled pit, otherwise there is a possibility of silting up your toilet. In this case, fixing the problem will require more effort and money on your part. To combat stench, modern special means in the form of biological products and various chemicals that speed up the waste recycling process.

Despite the apparent complexity of the content, in reality, a brick cesspool - simple design, and the process of its construction, as well as further operating experience, will be simple and easy. To build a cesspool, it is not necessary to be a specialist: the process of its construction is so simple that any hardworking owner can handle it without any special skills.

Location Requirements

First you need to determine the site for construction: take into account the location of the residential building, the fence, the nearest well and the possibility of access to the cesspool of sewage equipment. The following parameters are required when choosing a construction site, the numbers correspond to the requirement of SNiP:

The distance between the cesspool and residential buildings is at least 12 m.
The distance between the cesspool and the fence of the house is at least 1 m.
The distance between the cesspool and the entrance for the sewer truck - preferably at least 4 m - is the length of the hose. At a greater distance, it will be impossible to reach your toilet and clean it with vacuum trucks.

well with drinking water should be located as far as possible from the toilet and the cesspool should be built below its level. If the cesspool is planned without a bottom, then the distance between it and the nearest source of drinking water is at least 30 m. The level of groundwater and the type of soil do not matter.

Required parameters

First you need to prepare the necessary inventory. For example, a do-it-yourself brick cesspool is built using the following equipment:

For a cesspool, it is best to choose ceramic bricks.

shovel ordinary and shovel;
pegs for marking;
measuring instruments;
ladder;
level;
containers;
masonry tool.

The maximum allowable depth of the sewage pit is 3 m. We recommend this size to ensure that the pit is cleaned with a cesspool machine, the minimum depth is 2 m. The usual size of the pit is: length - 3 m, width - 1 m.

The filling of the cesspool should not exceed 1 m to the top edge, otherwise the waste may spill out of the pit, and the specific smell of the toilet will increase significantly.

Thus, the question of how to correctly determine the size of the future pit is solved by itself. It is limited by mandatory requirements.

The shape of the pit, as a rule, is square or quadrangular - the simplest for self construction. The round shape is made less often, since it will be more difficult to build it yourself, but this shape is better: in this case, the pressure on the walls is more evenly distributed.

The bottom is advised to be concreted: this way it will be easier to clean the pit, the probability of seepage of the contents of the pit into environment, for the construction of walls is more suitable brickwork. It is advisable to choose a ceramic brick; masonry made of silicate white brick is more likely to collapse, because it consists of lime.

During construction, you will need to take into account the presence of ventilation, otherwise there is a possibility of an explosive accumulation of methane during the decomposition of the contents of the cesspool. Ventilation is provided by means of a pipe or hatch. If you plan to use special preparations, it makes sense to install a septic tank for better waste processing.

When digging a pit, immediately sort the upper soil separately: this is the most fertile soil good to use for landscaping. Another 1.5 m³ of earth must be left to fill the ceiling from above, otherwise the contents of the cesspool may freeze. The remaining land, as unnecessary, can be taken out of the territory of your site.

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The service life of the structure

The service life of the cesspool is about 15 years. But if the pit is carefully looked after and its timely repair is ensured, this period can be extended to 50 years. Cesspool becomes unusable due to rotting wooden struts, in addition, brickwork, under the influence of sewage, eventually turns into clay.

The question of what a brick cesspool is and what advantages it has is becoming more and more relevant, since modern people began to appreciate the comfort and benefits of civilization more and more. Of course, it is better to connect your house to the central sewer, but this is not always possible, which is why you have to make a cesspool and a sewer system with your own hands.

To give a cesspool is the most common way to organize a sewer system. And this is not at all accidental, since the principle of operation of such a structure is incredibly simple: sewage and sewage, used water and kitchen waste flow through pipes into a storage tank located on the site. As it fills up, you can clean it yourself or call the vacuum trucks. Let's figure out how to build a cesspool of bricks with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages

Any local sewer system has both its advantages and disadvantages. Of course, the cesspool is no exception. Advantages of a brick pit:

Environmental friendliness. Sewage is either effectively cleaned or removed by sewage trucks to special drain stations.
An obstacle to soil and groundwater pollution, since if the volume of wastewater is more than 1 cubic meter, the installation of a storage tank without a bottom is prohibited. With a small volume, the bacteria living in the soil will provide natural cleaning.
Ease of operation and installation. Even a novice builder can do all the work on arranging a brick pit.

Note! To lay out the walls with bricks, it is not at all necessary to have a lot of experience. Since they will still be hidden from prying eyes, this is a way for beginners to practice bricklaying.

No dependence of the storage tank on the level of groundwater or soil type.

Disadvantages of a brick pit:

Possibility of unpleasant odors. Timely cleaning and the use of special preparations that accelerate the processes of waste decomposition will help you cope with this problem.
They are not very durable. If you have a brick cesspool, the sewer will last about 15 years. Over time, it will become unusable due to the gradual decomposition of wooden struts and brickwork, which turns into clay with prolonged exposure to water.
The need for frequent calls to vacuum trucks.

Stages of creating a brick pit

Building a cesspool with your own hands is a process that includes several steps:

Selection of the location of the cesspool. The distance to residential buildings should be at least 5 meters, to the fence - at least two meters. In addition, it should be located as far as possible from the source. drinking water and lower in level. Otherwise, there is a risk of infection.

Note! When choosing a place for a cesspool, it should be possible to drive the sludge at a distance of less than four meters. Otherwise, the hose simply will not suffice.

Training necessary tools and materials, for construction you will need: bayonet shovel having a regular and long stalk; shovel with special sides and a long handle; pegs for marking and fencing; roulette; stairs; building level; buckets; Master OK.
Planning of sewer channels and estimation of volume. The volume of the drive is determined as follows. On average, 0.5 m3 is required per person living in the house. As a result, a family of five will need at least 8 m3.

The approximate dimensions of the cesspool are: depth - 3 meters, length - 3 meters, width - 1 meter. These dimensions are approximate. Also remember that the fill level should be one meter below the soil level. Otherwise, the drainage of the cesspool will be disturbed and wastewater may go beyond the storage tank.

Note! The depth of the sealed cesspool should not exceed three meters, otherwise pumping out sewage with a sewage machine will be difficult.

Pit dig. You can dig a hole either on your own or using special equipment. Of course, the second option is much more expensive, but the services of an excavator will save you time and effort.

Installation of a septic tank (if necessary). The septic tank allows for efficient waste treatment.
Arrangement of ventilation. Ventilation is necessary to release the methane released during the process chemical reactions decomposition. If the gas is not removed, there is a possibility of an explosion. Ventilation is carried out through the hatch, which must be free from soil, as well as through the ventilation pipe.

Pit work

The actual process of building a cesspool begins with earthworks - a very long and laborious process. The walls must be leveled and protected from collapse, the bottom must have a slope towards the hatch, which will be installed after the walls are erected.

The easiest way is to make a square or rectangular pit. Installed at the bottom sand cushion 15 centimeters thick. A layer of concrete of the same thickness is laid on the pillow so that the concrete grabs well, it must be left for about 7 days. Then a cement-sand screed is made at the bottom.

Note! The bottom can be made from a prefabricated reinforced concrete slab, but it must also be placed at an angle.

Now you can move on to building walls. If you decide to use burnt brick, then you should prepare in advance clay castle. Masonry will be carried out on a base made of sand-clay mortar. After the wall is erected, it is plastered with the same mortar.

Note! The thickness of the masonry must be at least 25 centimeters, and the thickness of the partitions must be at least 12 centimeters. It is best to carry out the masonry by tying the bonding row and every fourth row with a strong cement mortar.

To reduce the permeability of the brick and increase the life of the cesspool, the walls must be additionally covered with a layer of waterproofing. For this, experts recommend using modified bitumen or bituminous mastic.

Note! Apply bituminous waterproofing should only be applied to the dry surface of a brick wall.

The next step is to install the floor. The overlap must be very reliable and durable, able to withstand heavy loads. As a ceiling, it is better to use reinforced concrete structures. From the sides, the pit should be blocked by at least 30 centimeters. And do not forget to leave a hole for the hatch so that it can be pumped out and cleaned.

To create a ceiling, formwork is made. The dimensions of the formwork should be at least 30 centimeters larger than the dimensions of the pit itself.
Formwork concrete is poured in two layers: the first layer is 7 centimeters, then reinforcement with bars at a distance of 10 centimeters, then the second layer of concrete is poured.

Note! If you want to make your own concrete floor, then you need to fill the structure at the same time as creating the floor. Then the overlap will be able to gain the necessary strength.

After the concrete has set well, the ceiling must be covered with a waterproofing material, for example, roofing felt or plastic wrap. Then, from above, the ceiling is covered with soil, slag or soft clay. The hatch cover must be made double.

This will prevent freezing in winter and unpleasant odors in summer. The first cover must be installed at ground level, and the second - at floor level. Then the space formed between the covers is filled with slag, expanded clay or laid with a heater, for example, mineral wool or foam. It should be noted that the top hatch cover must be completely waterproof.

Now that all the work is done, you can enjoy the excellent sewer system made by hand. It is only important not to forget to clean it periodically, and then you will not have any problems. Bring to the suburban area or to Vacation home urban comfort was not so difficult, but the result was above all expectations.

All conveniences of human habitation are connected with three components: electricity, water and sewerage. The owners of "summer residences" - dachas, small country houses - are trying to equip their seasonal home with maximum comfort. Providing it with electricity is the most simple task, almost every corner of Russia is electrified. Water supply is decided by the arrangement of wells or wells. Most complex issue- a local sewage device - also has a standard solution: a do-it-yourself drain pit is being built on the site.

A drain pit in a private house or in a country house is an elementary structure designed to collect and accumulate local sewage effluents. Here by sewer pipes household waste is transported from toilets, from kitchen sinks, washing machines and dishwashers.

Any treatment facilities in anticipation of this simplest collection of sewage flows are not provided. As the pit fills, it is cleaned by pumping out the contents. Depending on the cleaning method, the accumulated sewage is removed by special machines - sewers or, after treatment with biological products, are used for watering plants and as fertilizer.

Types of drain pits

Drainage pits are classified in relation to ground level and materials of manufacture.

Relative to ground level

On this basis, collections of sewer waste are divided into two groups:

superficial;
underground.

Surface collectors of sewage

This option is only suitable for use in warm time of the year. It is used extremely rarely, since in this case the sewer network has to be laid on top. The required slope (from the "supplier" of wastewater - sinks, toilets, etc. - to the collector) can only be provided if all sources of wastewater are above the inlet of the tank. It is advisable to arrange surface drain tanks in areas with a high level of groundwater.

Underground drain pits

Underground sewage collection facilities are the most common. Depending on the number of drains, the design of the drain pit may or may not have a sealed bottom. Sanitary standards Russia pits without sealing the bottom are allowed if the daily volume of effluents does not exceed 1 m 3.

In all other cases, a sealed underground reservoir is equipped.

According to the materials of manufacture

For the construction of the construction of the drain pit, you can use the following materials:

ceramic brick;
concrete (in the manufacture of a monolithic structure);
waste tractor tires;
plastic;
tree.

For do-it-yourself drain pits, concrete rings are the most inappropriate option. Construction equipment is required for their installation - manually heavy products cannot be handled.

The simplest and cheap way arranging a drain pit in a private house or on suburban area- the design of its walls with the help of tires. But such a design is unreliable in terms of tightness: there is a high risk of the liquid component of sewage entering the soil.

Location - sanitary restrictions

Some homeowners believe that they can do anything on their site, and they are deeply mistaken. Sanitary services do not sleep - they require strict adherence to the norms and rules in force in the state, regardless of the type of property.

The location of the drain pit in a private house is also strictly regulated: the standards stipulate the minimum allowable distances from the wastewater storage tank to engineering structures, residential buildings and site boundaries:

to the conduit (central) - 10 meters;
to the underground gas pipeline - 5 meters;
before drinking well: 20 meters - on clay soils, 30 m - on loams, 50 m - on sandstones and sandy loams;
to a residential building (own and neighboring) - 10-12 meters;
to the fence (site boundary) - 1 meter.

The maximum depth of the drain pit is also regulated: it should not exceed 3 m, if the groundwater level allows it. These restrictions are contained in SanPiN 42-128-4690-88 and SNiP 30-02-97.

Important: Homeowners should be aware that non-compliance with sanitary requirements can threaten not only with a fine - in case of damage to the health of others, a criminal case may be initiated.

In addition, when making a drain hole in the country with your own hands, it must be located on the site in such a way that it is possible to organize an unhindered access to it for special equipment at the time of pumping out.

Tip: Practice shows that it is better to place a drain pit at a distance of at least 15 meters from the windows of residential premises.

Construction order

The device of a drain pit in a private house with your own hands, regardless of the choice of material, is carried out according to the general algorithm:

Explosive gas is formed in sewer tanks. To take him away ventilation is arranged. Its role is played by a pipe brought out through the lid of the pit. Its dimensions are regulated building codes: diameter - 100 mm, height - not less than 600 mm from the ground level.

Choosing a drain cleaning method

Before you build a drain pit in a private house, you should decide very important question: How will you clean it. The amount of work on the improvement of the site depends on this:

if it’s easier for you to periodically invite specialists with a sewage truck, take care of organizing an access road;
if you are ready to clean it yourself, purchase a plastic container with an airtight lid and find out in advance who will take your waste. Do not forget about the means of protecting the skin of the hands and respiratory tract. It is better if it is a gas mask, but, at worst, a respirator will do. Of course, you can not do without rubber boots.

When arranging a drain hole, you need to take care not only how to dig it, but also how to clean it.

Modern technologies make it possible to significantly simplify the process of cleaning the drain pit, if it fills up quickly, or even make it practically waste-free. It's about about microscopic helpers - capable of turning drains into enough clean water and a solid fraction suitable for use as a fertilizer.

Bacteria not only decompose the contents of the drain pit, but also diligently fight against an unpleasant odor.

Just keep in mind, when deciding how to clean the drain pit in a private house, that you should choose biological products in accordance with the composition of the wastewater. Most bacteria do not withstand contact with household chemicals: detergents and washing powders are detrimental to them. However, microorganisms that are resistant to aggressive environments are now being grown.

After the bacteria have worked hard, you just have to pump out the liquid component with the pump (it is completely harmless to humans, animals and plants) and remove the solid sediment from the pit.

When creating a drain pit, you can use concrete rings, slate on a metal frame, old tires or bricks. Brickwork has its pros and cons.

Advantages:

Installation does not require professional skills. Even a beginner in the construction business can do bricklaying. Particularly easy to manufacture brick pit stands out from the production costs of similar pit latrines made from a different material. Concrete rings must be delivered to the construction site, then lowered into the pit. This requires special equipment. To fix the slate in the pit, you first need to weld metal carcass, which adds complexity if you do not have the appropriate skill. When using old tires, the diameter of the tank will be strictly limited, and you will also need to make a hole with a margin of space. The size of the masonry pit does not require such restrictions.
Environmental friendliness. Waste collected in a brick drain pit can be easily pumped out with a sewer machine.
No pollution of groundwater and soil. A small volume will allow bacteria in the soil to clean up on their own. But this does not apply to drain pits with a volume of more than 1 cubic meter - the absence of a bottom in this case is prohibited.
The type of soil is absolutely not important.

Flaws:

Appearance probability bad smell. Timely cleaning or the use of substances to accelerate the decomposition of waste will help get rid of this.
Not very great durability. Without repair, a brick drain pit will last about 15 years, since with constant contact with moisture, a slow softening of the walls is inevitable.
Tank emptying frequency. A call is required to avoid siltation of the well drain machine about 2 times a month.

Features and design options

When creating a brick pit, you can use one of two options:

Unsealed hole. Due to the departure of water into the soil, the frequency of pumping with the help of sewers is limited. But at the same time, the daily volume of water used should not exceed 1 cubic meter. The device of the pit begins with digging a pit. The bottom is covered with a drainage layer of broken bricks, sand and gravel. The base is at least 20 centimeters thick. The brick is laid in a checkerboard pattern, there are gaps between the bricks. This will ensure the outflow of fluid. Crushed stone is poured into the pit around the masonry. A trench is dug around the perimeter of the pit. concrete floor. The gap between the brickwork and the earthen wall is filled with concrete.
Pit with waterproofing walls. Most of the construction is excavation. For a family from three people a pit will be required standard size at 1.8 cubic meters. It is required to make a slight tilt of the structure towards the placement of the hatch. The base of the pit is covered with sand and compacted, then poured with concrete. The thickness of the concrete bottom is 10 cm. The brick is also laid in a checkerboard pattern using a sand-cement mortar. The wall thickness is 25 cm. After construction, the surface of the pit is plastered from the inside and covered with a waterproofing layer, a layer is made around it - a clay castle.

Choice of location and size

For the normal functioning of a brick cesspool, when planning a place, it is necessary to comply with certain sanitary standards:

The distance to the nearest source of drinking water is at least 30 m. If the soil is sandy - 50 m.
The minimum distance to a residential building is 5 m.
The distance to the fence is at least 2 m.
The depth of the pit should not exceed 3 m.
When choosing a location, it is necessary to take into account the space for the entrance of the sewage truck and the distance to it is not more than 4 meters.
The relief of the site is chosen in such a way that the wastewater moves through the pipes by gravity.
Ground water should not get into the pit and fill it in order to avoid soil contamination.

Step by step construction instructions

Digging a hole. The most labor intensive process. Soil type has a big influence. In a sand hole 3 m deep and 1.5 m in diameter, two people can dig in a day. V clay soil the task becomes much more complicated, and the use of technology will certainly be required. It is necessary to provide an approach for the excavator from two sides for the possibility of uniform excavation. It is also required to plan in advance where to put the excavated earth - level it over the territory, dump it aside for subsequent removal, or take it out right away. Part of the earth should be left for a hill near the hatch.
The shape should resemble a glass slightly expanding upwards. The bottom is made with a slight slope towards the hatch. In advance, you need to consider the location of the pipe coming from the house and whether it is planned to insulate it.
The base of the pit is something that you should not save on. It should consist of layers of sand and gravel, after backfilling, concrete is poured. Its thickness is affected by the diameter of the pit - the larger it is, the thicker the bottom (approximately 15-20 cm).
The arrangement of the walls depends on the type of pit - leaky or with waterproofing. The latter may even require coating with bituminous mastic.
For overlapping, you can use a ready-made concrete pancake, there must be a hole for the hatch. The diameter of the overlap is half a meter larger than the diameter of the masonry. You can also fill the ceiling yourself, you will need a wooden shield that serves as a formwork. The vent pipe can be poured into the ceiling. The surface of the cover is covered with a layer of soil.

Without modern comfort living conditions we do not represent Everyday life, therefore, even the absence of a central sewage system does not stop the owners of private houses from arranging plumbing fixtures. To dispose of wastewater, they arrange own system accumulation. The cesspool is the most primitive design of an autonomous sewer, but it does an excellent job with its assigned functions. The collector structure can be made of various materials: concrete rings, monolithic walls or brickwork. The latter option is quite simple to implement and does not require large expenditures. In this article, we will consider how a do-it-yourself brick cesspool can be made.

Pros of using

The principle of the construction and use of a cesspool is very simple - all waste from the house flows into it, after filling it is cleaned with cesspools and the process starts again. The advantages of a brick structure include:

a simple device that a novice master can perform;
you can make any convenient form;
the drainage cushion device cleans the drains and increases the time of use.

This design is not without drawbacks: an unpleasant odor may occur, a short service life and a frequent need to call vacuum trucks. This makes it not the best option.

Location selection

So that the cesspool does not bring trouble and function normally, when planning a place for it, sanitary standards should be taken into account:

the distance from the house should be 5 m;
the distance from a well or other source of drinking water should be 30 m, with sandy soil - 50 m;
the depth of the pit is not more than 3 m, otherwise the sewer will not be able to pump it out to the very bottom, since it will not have enough pump power;
to the neighboring site must be a distance of one meter. The need for periodic cleaning of the pit requires the possibility of the access of a sewage truck. The volume of the cesspool should be calculated based on the number of residents of the house. When choosing a place, pay attention to the relief of the site, because sewer drains will move through the pipes by gravity. For unobstructed traffic, a straight highway that slopes to a lower point is preferable. Groundwater location plays important role- they should not fall into the cesspool and fill it, moreover, when high level dirty water will mix with them, seep into the soil and pollute underground sources.

Design Options

Depending on the volume of effluents and the level of groundwater, the design of the cesspool is chosen. It can be quite simple in execution and cost-effective as a brick pit without a bottom or a permanent structure with a concrete base.

The device of a leaky pit allows you to rarely use the services of sewers, since most of the effluent goes after filtration into the soil. The main limitation is the volume of water used daily, if its amount exceeds 1 m 3, then such a device will not cope with it. For the device of the pit, it is necessary to dig a pit according to the calculated size. Its bottom is covered with a drainage layer consisting of crushed stone of various fractions, broken bricks and sand. The thickness of the base is made at least 20 cm. The laying of the walls is carried out in a checkerboard pattern with gaps between the bricks, which contributes to the liquid leaving. For a pit device, it is not necessary to purchase a new brick, you can use a used one. Such structures have a short service life, because they quickly silt up and stop absorbing liquid, and then they are covered with earth. Large rubble is poured into the pit around the masonry. Along the perimeter of the pit, a trench is dug under the concrete belt for overlapping. The sides of the formwork will be brickwork and an earthen wall, this gap is filled with concrete. Top can be covered with the selected floor slab.

Capital pit with a concrete bottom and waterproofing of the walls. Construction consists of several stages. The main labor costs are for earthworks. You have to dig a pit of the required volume, for a family of three it will be at least 1.8 m 3 (200 liters per day × 3 × 3 = 1800 liters). The shape of the pit can be round, square or rectangular, its choice does not affect the efficiency. The design needs a slight slope towards the placement of the hatch. After the foundation pit is ready, its base is covered with sand and rammed for a pillow device. Next, the bottom is poured with concrete to a height of 10 cm. Bricklaying is carried out in a checkerboard pattern on sand-cement mortar, it should be formed 25 cm thick.

Leave a hole for the drain pipe.

The inner surface is plastered and covered with layers of waterproofing. A clay castle is made around the finished pit.

Waterproofing

With a significant daily water consumption, a large amount of wastewater is formed. For their reception, a design is required that excludes the ingress of contaminated liquid into the soil. To provide environmental safety cesspools use a structure with a concrete bottom and protection from a waterproofing layer. Bituminous mastic- the most common material used for waterproofing a cesspool. The work is carried out on the finished, dried masonry after plastering. For the first primer layer, bitumen is heated and mixed with kerosene. The liquid solution is applied to brick wall. After drying, the procedure is repeated, bitumen can be smeared with a roller or brush. Without waiting for complete drying, fiberglass is applied to the still adhesive surface. Bitumen waterproofing is again applied from above.

There is more modern material- bituminous emulsion, which does not need preheating; for priming, it is enough to dilute part of the composition with water.

Installation of ceiling and hatch

As a floor, use densely packed logs or reinforced concrete slabs. The transition beyond the walls of the cesspool should be 0.5 m from all sides. The size of the hatch is provided at 70 cm. waterproofing material, for this purpose the best choice is ruberoid. Installing a double manhole cover will protect the pit from freezing in winter and from spreading odors during a hot period. The first cover of the boards is installed flush with the ground, and the second - at the level of the ceiling, it must be protected by waterproofing. The distance between them is filled with insulation or expanded clay.

The cesspool is arranged simply, but its importance for a comfortable stay in the house is simply enormous.