Pelargonium zonal: description of varieties, photos, planting and care. Subgroups of pelargonium zonal

In the cultivation of pelargonium, there is a clear annual cycle, which depends on temperature and illumination. Usually, the flowering time in our climate begins in the spring and may continue for some varieties until late autumn, while there will be enough light and heat.

Lighting

When growing pelargoniums, one must remember that these are light-loving plants. Planted in open ground or taken out into the open air for the summer, they tolerate direct sun perfectly. The exception is royal geraniums, which are more picky about the effects of wind and rain, so they are preferably grown on terraces, balconies and window sills, in protected places. If the pelargonium is in indoors(in a greenhouse, on a window), where light enters through the glass, the plant can overheat, especially in conditions of poor ventilation. Then you need protection from the scorching summer midday sun. It will tolerate pelargonium and slight shading, but with a lack of light, they will begin to turn yellow and die lower leaves, the stem will be exposed, the plant will not bloom.

It is important to rotate the plant regularly, every few days, at a small angle relative to the light source, this is necessary for uniform crown growth.

Temperature regime

In summer, pelargonium prefers moderate heat, within + 17 + 23 ° C. Landing in open ground should be done only when the danger of return frosts has passed. At a stable temperature of +12 ° C and below, pelargonium ceases to bloom, and too high a temperature also negatively affects flowering, especially indoors. The fact that the plant is cold can be signaled by reddened leaves.

In autumn, the temperature of the content and the abundance of watering are gradually reduced - growth should not be active so that the pelargonium does not stretch and become depleted in low light conditions.

winter care

Optimal wintering conditions can be created on a glazed and non-freezing, well-lit loggia or in a greenhouse. It is necessary to maintain the minimum temperature at night not lower than +6 ° C, in the daytime - about +12 + 15 ° C. In case of overheating on sunny days, open the greenhouse doors for ventilation. Angels, bicolor and tricolor varieties are best kept at higher temperatures by placing them in warmer areas of the greenhouse or loggia.

Good air circulation around the plants is required, they should not be placed too closely, if necessary, thick roots should be thinned out a little. This will help prevent the occurrence of fungal diseases. Watering this time is rather scarce, experienced growers carry it out from pallets, clearly measuring the amount of water and determining the time of the next watering by the weight of the pots, while the top of the soil is always left dry.

There are also other ways of wintering. One of them is to keep the plants in the form of rooted cuttings, while the mother plant is thrown away. The method is applied when summer cultivation pelargonium outdoors.

The second method is also used in outdoor cultivation: on the eve of frost, the plant is dug up, excess soil is shaken off the roots, the plant is heavily cut and wrapped in paper, then hung in a cool basement. The room should be with good ventilation and high humidity so that the plant does not dry out. In the spring, it is planted in a pot, with the onset of heat, it is planted in open ground. You can combine the first and second methods: first take the cuttings, and then send the mother plant to winter in the basement.

Wintering falls on the most dark time per year and lasts approximately 2.5-3 months (from November to February). Already in late January - early February, with an increase in daylight hours, pelargoniums gradually begin to wake up.

Watering

When watering pelargoniums, it is important to remember that these are rather drought-resistant plants, while at the same time easily susceptible to fungal diseases. Therefore, it is better to under-water the plant a little than water it in excess. In summer, water as the top layer dries out, provided that the plant is in a warm and sunny place. In winter, in cool conditions, watering should be limited, but not brought to complete drying of the soil.

Signs of overwatering will be drooping, drooping leaves, often with signs of gray rot, in severe case rotting of the stem will begin, which almost always leads the plant to death. Another symptom of excess moisture is the appearance of "sores" on the underside of the leaves. When the earthen coma dries out, the plant stops blooming, the leaves turn yellow, their edges dry out.

Air humidity for pelargoniums is not important, these plants do not require spraying. Excessive dampness and stagnant air can cause fungal diseases.

top dressing

Top dressing is desirable to introduce with each watering, respectively, reducing the dosage. So, if watering is done every day, then we divide the weekly rate of fertilizers by 7-10 and give such a dose in each watering. If the clod managed to dry out between waterings, then you must first moisten it clean water. During winter rest, top dressing is canceled if the temperature is kept low and the plants are completely resting. When at least a slight increase is observed, fertilizers can be introduced at ¼ dosage. Shortly after the cuttings have rooted, use a fertilizer with a high nitrogen content. For fertilizing young plants that are not yet allowed to bloom, use a complex universal fertilizer. Before the onset of the flowering period, about 2.5-3 months (in April), they begin to use a fertilizer with a higher potassium content. With signs of chlorosis, it should be treated with magnesium sulfate and iron chelate (or simply a solution of microelements in chelate form).

Landing

Priming Pelargonium prefers fertile and well-drained. It consists of turf land, humus, peat and sand in approximately equal proportions.

Lifespan an individual pelargonium bush is usually 2-5 years, after which the plant loses its decorative effect and it is better to take care of renewal in time by rooting cuttings. It will take about a year or a little more to grow an ornamental flowering plant from a cutting. Cuttings rooted in early spring may bloom this summer, but it is advisable to give preference to the formation beautiful bush for abundant blooms next year.

cuttings can be taken at any time, from early spring to autumn. But here it is necessary to take into account the time of flowering of the plant, which for different varieties is from 16 to 20 weeks after the last pinching or pruning (flowering occurs on young shoots that have reached this age). If you have a single copy of this variety, then you will have to wait for the end of flowering to cut the cuttings. If there are several copies, then it is better to take cuttings earlier, starting from February-March, then young plant there will be more time to develop for lush flowering next year, up to this point it is necessary to remove all emerging buds. It is not recommended to take cuttings before the end of January, with a short daylight hours. By this time, the plants are just beginning to wake up from a cool winter. If you take cuttings from dormant plants, then the level of growth hormones in them is low and rooting will take longer. For such pelargoniums as angels, royal and fragrant, it is advisable to take cuttings at the end of winter or early spring (later, with an increase in light levels, flower buds will begin to be laid closer to the tops of the shoots). For most varieties zonal pelargoniums this period is not so important, since their flower buds are laid along the entire length of the shoot and cuttings can be taken at any time during the growing season.

Cuttings must be cut only from healthy and powerful plants - the stronger and stockier the cutting, the better it will develop in the future. For cuttings, the apical parts of the shoots are taken about 5-7 cm long, from miniature and dwarf varieties - about 2.5-3 cm. The lower leaves and stipules should be carefully removed, and an oblique cut with a slight slope should be made under the lower node. Dry the lower cut of the cutting in the air, depending on the conditions, this may take from several hours to several minutes. You can use drugs that stimulate root formation, but pelargonium gives roots well without their use.

Rooting takes from 2 to 4 weeks, depending on the conditions and variety. The roots are formed on the lower cut of the cutting. As a soil for rooting, a mixture of sterile peat substrate and perlite is used in approximately equal proportions. It is important that water does not stagnate in the soil. Sterilizing the soil before use reduces the chance of cuttings rotting. Small pots (6 cm in diameter) or transparent cups (100-200 ml in volume) are filled with earth mixture and kept on a tray with water until the upper part of the substrate begins to be wetted. After that, the soil is allowed to dry for about a day.

Another method of rooting is also popular. They take two pots, insert a second, narrower pot into a wider one, fill the space between them with soil, and prepared cuttings are planted here. They are immersed in the ground by about 1-3 cm (depending on the variety) and lightly pressed.

The next watering is carried out sparingly and through the pan when the soil dries. It is advisable to introduce a systemic fungicide into the soil after planting the cuttings during the second irrigation. A greenhouse for rooting cuttings of pelargonium is not required. The first 2-3 days, the leaves may wilt (do not put the cuttings in sunlight!), later they restore turgor.

Optimum temperature rooting of cuttings of pelargonium - about + 20 + 22 o C.

After rooting the first pinching the cutting is carried out when it forms 8-10 leaves. With a sharp sterile knife, the apical point of growth is removed. This stimulates the growth of side shoots from the axils of the remaining leaves. If shoots begin to grow only from 1-2 upper buds, then it is advisable to remove them or pinch them as soon as they give 3 leaves. The next pinchings are carried out as the side shoots grow, when they form 8-10 leaves. This will ensure lush branching, and subsequently abundant flowering. It is optimal to form a crown in the form of a 2/3 ball. The last pinching of the plant is carried out no later than 16-20 weeks (depending on the variety) before the expected flowering. Since flowering is influenced by external factors(illuminance), then you can expect it to start in May or June, so the last pinching is carried out no later than February. As they grow, diseased or weak shoots are removed, too rapidly growing ones are shortened, trying to maintain uniformity of the roots. Also cut out all the leaves that do not match the grade in size or color.

As the young plant grows, it is several times a season transplanted(neat transshipment) into a slightly larger pot, not trying to immediately give a large volume. Transshipment is carried out only when the roots tightly braid the lump. For a one-year-old plant, the maximum size of the pot should not exceed: for miniature - 9 cm, dwarf varieties and angels - 11 cm, for other varieties - no more than 15 cm in diameter. The last transplant of the cuttings rooted this season is carried out closer to the winter rest or after it ends at the beginning of the next season.

Pruning an old plant after flowering, taking cuttings

After the end of flowering of the mother plant, apical cuttings are cut from it for rooting. Pelargoniums are very susceptible to fungal diseases, so it is advisable to make a cut on mother plant above the node and be sure to treat the cut with a fungicide, sprinkle with coal or sulfur, these measures will reduce the likelihood of rotting of the stems. It is optimal to carry out cuttings in warm time also reduces the risk of disease. It is better not to remove old leaves that remain on the plant at this time, as they will soon begin to grow. side shoots. As young shoots grow, old leaves are removed. As soon as the young shoots grow 8-10 leaves, they are pinched.

For crown uniformity and stimulation good flowering old specimens immediately after the winter rest are carried out pruning, remove frail and diseased shoots, shorten long ones, leaving 2 to 5 buds on each shoot. It is undesirable to carry out pruning in the fall, because at home, without strict adherence to cool wintering conditions, weak side shoots are formed that will have to be removed.

reproduction

cuttings. Pelargonium reproduces well with the help of cuttings - this is the main method of propagation of varietal plants, only it completely (excluding cases of the appearance of somatic mutations - spots) guarantees the preservation of all varietal characteristics in the plant. Read about cuttings of pelargoniums above.

seed propagation. Many cultivars are hybrid in nature, and even if they can set seeds, plants from such seeds will not necessarily retain the varietal qualities of the original plants. Species pelargoniums and a small number of varieties are successfully grown from seeds.

Mostly on sale you can find seeds of hybrids F1 (first generation) and hybrids F2 (second generation), they are produced by large seed companies by crossing two different varieties. Plants grown from such seeds are not very interesting for collectors, but are more suitable for mass gardening - they do not differ in the richness of colors, but they have increased resistance.

The optimal time for sowing seeds is the end of January - February. With an increase in daylight hours, it will be possible to grow strong seedlings, and seedlings are likely to bloom this summer. You can sow earlier, but in winter you will definitely need additional lighting so that the seedlings do not stretch.

For seed germination, poor sterile soil is used. Seeds are sown on the surface, sprinkled with a thin layer (literally 2-3 mm) of the earth mixture, spilled and not covered with anything. The optimum temperature for germination is + 20 + 24 ° C. You can sow the seeds one at a time in individual small cups, then picking is not required. Shoots appear in 2-3 weeks.

Diseases and pests

Great damage to pelargoniums gray rot. It appears as a gray coating on the leaves and other parts of the plant. Its occurrence provokes coolness, dampness, waterlogging, poor ventilation. Especially often the disease occurs during winter rest, which is why it is so important to provide plants with good ventilation, not to put them close to each other, and to remove diseased and unnecessary leaves in time.
Often found on pelargoniums rust. It manifests itself in the form of concentric yellowish spots on the top and brown below on the leaves.
From waterlogging of the soil can be observed stem rot, which manifests itself in the form of dark depressed spots at the base of the stem. This is the certain death of the plant, but you can try to take the apical cutting.
verticillium wilt caused by a fungus that infects the conducting system of the plant. The disease manifests itself in the gradual yellowing and wilting of the plant and is not treatable.
Damage is also possible with other pathogenic fungi that cause on leaves, petioles and other parts of plants. different kinds spotting.

It is important to carry out preventive treatments of plants from fungal diseases in a timely manner, especially on the eve of winter holidays. Plants are abundantly sprayed with drugs or immersed with a crown in a container with a fungicide. It is advisable to use broad-spectrum systemic fungicides, such as Skor, Topaz, Profit Gold, Topsin, etc. fungal disease diseased parts of the plant are removed, treated with the same preparations.

Pelargonium is often affected whitefly. When purchasing a plant, carefully inspect the lower part of the leaf for the presence of small white butterflies or white capsular formations, their larvae. If you find at least a few individuals, you should refuse to buy.
Upon detection mealybug It's also better not to buy a plant. In the axils of the leaves, on the stems, clusters can be seen that look like pieces of white cotton wool.
Pelargoniums can also be affected thrips, aphids, ticks.

Physiological disorders not associated with diseases or pests

Leaf reddening. The reason is that the temperature is too low. We need to change the conditions.
The plant does not bloom although its general condition is good. The reason may be hiding in too high a temperature, lack of light or excessive watering.
The leaves turn yellow and fall, the edges of the leaves dry. The reason may be insufficient watering, with a strong exposure of the stem - a lack of light.

Photo: Nina Starostenko, Rita Brilliantova

Many flower lovers love pelargonium - beautiful unpretentious flower, easy to propagate, easy to care for. Pelargonium is popularly called geranium, although this is not entirely true. , which is resistant to frost, and for many years it can be grown in one place. But pelargonium is thermophilic, and it can be kept in the garden only in the warm season. Pelargonium cultivation does not cause difficulties even for a beginner grower, if you have an idea about the features of this flower.
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What are the features of pelargonium?

This flower is considered the geranium family. The flower was brought to Europe from Holland in the 18th century. He quickly gained popularity among flower growers. Breeders managed to bring out a large variety of species of pelargonium. All varieties can be divided into six large groups: ampelous (ivy), English home large-flowered, garden, fragrant, variegated, succulent.

Moreover, ivy and garden varieties well propagated by seeds and grow well in open ground decorating flower arrangements.

Pelargonium - growing conditions

It can be grown indoors in winter and in the garden in summer or directly in the ground or in pots, complementing

Temperature regime. Pelargonium is thermophilic, therefore, before the first frost, it must be transferred to the house. Optimal home temperature in winter time should be between 8 and 12 degrees. In summer, the plant needs moderate heat of 17-23 degrees. The plant is planted in the garden outdoors after the threat of return frosts. At a temperature of about 12 degrees, pelargonium stops blooming. But the high temperature for the plant is undesirable. The plant signals a low, uncomfortable temperature by reddening of the leaves. When removing a flower from the garden in autumn, it is necessary to reduce the temperature and the amount of water when watering, so that the plant reduces growth and does not deplete in low light conditions.
Lighting. The plant is photophilous and with a lack of light blooms weakly and stretches strongly. Interestingly, when grown in the garden, it perfectly tolerates direct sunlight, but at home, the flower must be protected from the sun by shading the flower. However, with a lack of lighting, the plant begins to turn yellow, losing the lower leaves and exposing the stem, and blooms poorly. At home, it is necessary to turn the flower to the light several times a week for its uniform development.
The flower loves space, so you do not need to plant other plants close.

pelargonium - variety of species

Watering. Pelargonium is a drought-resistant flower, but quickly becomes infected with fungal diseases. Therefore, when watering, it is better to underfill than to overfill. Therefore, the plant is usually watered when the soil dries up under it, preventing it from completely drying out. The overflow of the plant is signaled by the leaves: they become lethargic and lowered. With a lack of water in the soil, the leaves turn yellow, the edges dry out, the plant stops flowering. Humidity does not play a role in the life of pelargonium, so it does not need to be sprayed. An increase in humidity can provoke fungal diseases.
top dressing experts advise to combine with each watering, calculating the dose of fertilizer for the number of waterings. Or feed once a week until late autumn. If the soil under the plant is dry, then you must first water plain water, and then with the addition of fertilizers. If in winter you managed to create a lower temperature, then top dressing is completely unnecessary. If, nevertheless, the flower grows a little, then top dressing is carried out with a fourth of the required dose of fertilizer. 2-2.5 months before flowering, the plant needs to be fed mineral fertilizers With large quantity potassium. If symptoms of leaf chlorosis appear, be sure to include iron chelate and magnesium sulfate in top dressing.
The soil. for beautiful blooms and healthy plant the soil must be fertile. The composition of the soil consists of a mixture in equal proportions of peat, sand, garden soil. Be sure to perform stone drainage. Do not forget to loosen the soil more often so that there is good air access to the roots, which will not allow them to rot.
pot size. For pelargonium flower pot selected by the size of the root system. The plant grows much better, and also blooms brighter and more abundantly in small containers. In large pots, the plant itself begins to actively develop to the detriment of flowering.
For the formation of a bush and fast branching, it is recommended to pinch the top of the growth around February or March.

pelargonium, growing conditions

Reproduction of pelargonium

The plant develops well within 2-5 years. Therefore, it is necessary to propagate it by cuttings, which can be rooted from early spring to late autumn. Cuttings are taken from the tops 5-7 cm long only from healthy and strong plants. The lower sheets are carefully removed from the handle and an oblique cut is made below the knot, which must be dried, and then placed in a container with water until the roots appear.
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Geranium or pelargonium has long and firmly occupied many window sills as an unpretentious and beautiful plant. It can be grown at home and in flower beds: the flower looks great anywhere. Before buying, it is recommended to read how to care for geraniums at home.

Geranium: general information

Its scientific name is geranium - pelargonium - translated from Greek means "stork" or "crane". The plant got this unusual name because of the fruits - as long as a bird's beak.

There are more than 400 species of geraniums in the world, which can be found almost all over the world, about 40 species are found on the territory of Russia. It is noteworthy that in Germany geraniums are called "stork's nose", and in the USA and England - crail.

It is a meadow annual or perennial, growing up to 60 cm. The leaves are soft, covered with hairs, have palmate-lobed or palmately dissected forms. Large flowers have 5 regularly arranged flowers, usually collected in inflorescences. They can be terry and smooth, among the shades there are white, red, purple and blue.

Among the most popular types home geraniums are present:

In addition to "pure" varieties, there are a huge number of hybrids that you can grow yourself. Among domestic species, the name pelargonium is often found. They belong to the same geranium family, but differ in appearance. Despite this, care for pelargonium at home, like for geraniums, is almost the same.

How to care for geraniums

Home care for geraniums, photos of which are easy to find, has borne fruit, it is necessary comply with the basic conditions:

Geranium feels great room temperature: in summer it can fluctuate in the range of + 20-25 degrees, in winter it should not fall below + 10-14 degrees. It is better to choose a place away from drafts.
But the flower is more capricious towards the light: the plant can even be left in direct sunlight without fear of harm, since the lack of light leads to the shredding of leaves and flowers. The only thing that may be required is to turn the pot from time to time so that the plant forms on all sides. In winter, the lack of light is filled with fluorescent lamps. If there is not enough light, the leaves will begin to rapidly turn pale.
For geraniums, the simplest purchased universal soil is suitable. You can cook it yourself by mixing 1 part of turf and foliage, one and a half parts of humus and half of the sand. Drainage should be placed at the bottom of the pot.
The flower loves moisture and requires regular and frequent watering. In this case, water should not stagnate in a pot or fall on the leaves. High humidity also contraindicated. You can use settled tap water, rain and melt moisture is also suitable. In winter, it is required to halve the frequency of watering, as the plant is at rest.
A transplant is required only if the pot has become small. You should not choose large pots: geranium treats them badly and blooms profusely only in "cramped". Optimal sizes will be: height 12 cm, diameter - 12-15 cm.
The plant is not picky about complementary foods and is content with standard mineral fertilizers. They are brought from March to September twice a month. You can also use specialized fertilizers for geraniums.
To form a beautiful appearance, you can occasionally cut the upper and side branches, as well as remove dry leaves and flowers.
Reproduction of pelargonium occurs by cuttings at any time of the year.

Proper transplant

Geranium not good for transplant, and therefore it is better not to change the pots more than 1-2 times a year. The reasons may be the following factors:

The roots have become cramped: you can check this by carefully pulling the geranium out of the pot;
Due to excess moisture, the flower began to wither;
Despite the care, the geranium does not develop and does not bloom;
The roots are very bare.

Pelargonium is usually transplanted in the spring, February to April, but this is not important: you can transplant a plant even in winter, only the bush will take root longer. It is also not recommended to touch a flowering plant: it already spends a lot of energy on flowering and will not perceive it well. new house. Instead of transplanting, you can update the top layer of soil, pouring fresh as needed.

Some flower growers, as an additional care, transplant geraniums every spring to the street in a flower bed, and in the fall they "take" it back. This helps to heal the plant itself, and at the same time split the roots for propagation.

It is necessary to prepare all the tools, and treat the pot with a bleach solution if it has already been used previously for another plant. This will avoid the transmission of the disease.
Drainage is laid out at the bottom of the pot. It can be small stones or foam.
Geraniums are watered to keep the ground moist. Then you need to turn the pot over and carefully remove the plant from it, trying not to break or damage the roots. To separate the earth from the pot, you can lightly knock on the walls and bottom.
The roots are inspected, and if rot or signs of disease are found, they are carefully cut off.
The flower is lowered into a pot and the empty places are covered with earth, lightly watered, compacted and poured with more soil.
After transplantation, geraniums are removed in a dark place for a week, then transferred to a designated place. After 2 months, you can feed.

In a similar way, the plant is transplanted from the street in the fall before the onset of frost. If necessary, you can make a gentle cut. To do this, shorten all the shoots, leaving about 20 cm. The cut should be a few millimeters from the node. During the winter, geraniums will not be able to produce strong enough stems, and therefore pruning will have to be repeated in February-March.

Pelargonium can be propagated by seeds and cuttings: the first option is suitable for obtaining new varieties, the second for a new bush. Also, geraniums can be propagated by rhizomes, but waiting for this you need to have some experience.

Reproduction by seeds

It is possible to plant pelargonium seeds from the beginning of March, having previously cultivated the earth with a weak solution of potassium permanganate to protect against diseases. You can use purchased soil by adding to it sand and humus. The seeds are scattered over a loosened surface and lightly sprinkled with earth on top, then the container is covered with a film to create a greenhouse effect and removed for several days in heat. When the sprouts are strong enough, they can be planted, after which standard care begins.

Reproduction by cuttings

The best time for propagation by cuttings is spring. A cut cutting with 3-4 leaves (it is better to cut it off from the top) is placed in water and waiting for the roots to grow. After the pelargonium is dried and buried in the ground.

Alarms

If the appearance of a geranium has suddenly changed for the worse, this need to pay attention:

With a lack of moisture, the leaves dry out and turn yellow, with an excess, they become lethargic and unnecessarily dull, gray rot appears on the stems;
If the leaves, especially the lower ones, have begun to fall off, there is a lack of lighting;
If the plant has stopped blooming, this indicates an overly large pot or lack of dormancy in winter.

Like any plant, geranium even after good care subject to attack by pests and diseases.

Conclusion

Geranium is an unpretentious plant that even novice gardeners can handle at home. It does not require special growing conditions and frequent transplantation, easily tolerates direct sunlight and drought. The only thing to remember: geranium has a negative attitude towards high humidity and systematic transfusions. In such conditions, she will quickly wither and die.

home geranium care

Pelargonium zonal - has long been considered one of the most popular and unpretentious flowers for decorating residential and office space. However, this plant, which can be found in almost every home of flower lovers, knows more.

Appearance of zonal pelargonium

This flower was loved by our great-grandmothers. And sometimes it may seem that geranium is an old-fashioned and boring plant. However, selection does not stand still, and its results give new unusual and amazing varieties of pelargonium. Initially, this pelargonium was large in stature, and the flowering was inconspicuous - small. Modern hybrid varieties- These are low lush bushes with large beautiful inflorescences.

One of the most suitable for growing at home is the zonal pelargonium. This species is the most numerous. It includes about 75 thousand varieties. This geranium got its name because of the coloring of its flowers. They seem to have two color zones: the edges of the petals differ from the shade of the middle. Although this difference becomes almost imperceptible during the period of short daylight hours due to the lack of light. At the end of winter, the flowers again become unusual.

Flowers vary from variety to variety. There are varieties with double, semi-double and non-double flowers. They also differ in the number of petals. Some varieties have 5 on each flower, others may have more than 8.

Subgroups of pelargonium zonal

Pelargonium zonal, given the many varieties, has its own subgroups:

Rosaceous. hallmark is that this geranium has flowers similar to roses;
Tulip-shaped. Outwardly, the flowers are similar to dense unopened tulip buds;
Carnation. Due to the large carved petals, the flowers of plants from this subgroup resemble garden carnations;
stellate. This geranium differs not only in the shape of the petals, but also in the leaves. Their sharp, angular shape has something similar to a star;
cactus. Representatives of this subgroup are quite rare. The flowers have long twisted or curled petals. Outwardly, they resemble the flowering of a cactus dahlia;
- Deacons. This is one of the smallest varieties of geraniums. Flowering, on the contrary, they have plentiful and magnificent.

Content Rules

Despite its diversity, zonal pelargonium does not require large differences in conditions of detention. All varieties are quite unpretentious, minimal care is needed.

Growing this flower brings a lot of pleasure to its owner, both morally and in a healing effect. After all, it is believed that together with a fragrant aroma, geranium also distributes antibacterial substances and disinfects the air.

Lighting

The ideal cultivation of zonal pelargonium will be next to windows facing west or east. The plant does not tolerate too bright and direct rays, it is afraid of burns. If southern windows are chosen as habitat, the flower must be shaded.

Air temperature

Accompanied primarily by maintaining a stable temperature, since these geraniums do not tolerate sudden changes. V summer period the ideal range is from 20 to 25 degrees, in winter it is about 15, the critical lower mark is plus 7.

Soil Requirements

Soil requirements are similar to general requirement other geraniums. It should be a non-acidic soil around 6.0 pH. Required good layer drainage. Additional fertilizing should be avoided, as the plant may begin to fatten and negatively affect the flowering process. When compiling the substrate yourself, you need to make sure that there is no excess of peat, which can provoke moisture stagnation. Ideal proportions: an equal portion of peat, humus and turf, plus half a portion of sand. Growing in such soil will be the most favorable for the flower.

Watering mode

Care in the matter of watering should be regular. Geranium is required every other day in the summer months, in the winter it will be enough once a week - one and a half.

Feeding

It is necessary to make top dressing with the advent of March and until the end of August with a frequency of once every 15-20 days. The main emphasis should be on phosphorus and potassium. At other times of the year, it is not necessary to supplement care with top dressing.

Transfer

It is not recommended to transplant zonal pelargonium too often. This process negatively affects the plant and makes it weaker. He needs a lot of time and effort to recover. It is also worth remembering that this flower prefers to grow in a somewhat cramped container. This favorably affects the duration and splendor of flowering. And after mature plant has become higher than 25 centimeters, it is generally no longer recommended to transplant it. A transplant is necessary if the rhizome of the plant has grown too much and has already appeared in drainage hole. It is worth making a transplant in spring period.

reproduction

A good breeding option for this geranium is. To do this, choose apical cuttings in the spring, or early autumn. Selected cuttings are placed in water until the roots appear, which happens quite simply and quickly.

Diseases and pests

Insects that this pelargonium is afraid of are whitefly, and cyclamen mites, and aphids. These plants are also susceptible to fungal diseases such as gray rot.

If the leaves and stems take on a reddish hue, the geranium may be cold. You can also not over-moisten the soil. If this happens, and the stem at the base of the plant turns black, most likely the pelargonium will disappear.

If the plant is gaining green mass well and flowering does not occur for a long time, stop feeding the plant with fertilizers. But if the flower is rapidly stretching upwards, and the green part is very poor and rare, you need to provide the plant with more light. It is worth watering more often if the owner has noticed, or the appearance brown spots on healthy leaves.

Growing and propagating fragrant pelargonium at home Basic rules for growing pelargonium from seeds and conducting the first pick Basic rules for growing geraniums from seeds and other propagation methods Features of caring for chlorophytum at home

Pelargonium is a plant of the Geraniaceae family, it is it that is widely known as geranium. The plant comes from South Africa where it lives in dry and windy regions.

Geranium is a herbaceous, semi-shrub or shrub plant. Thanks to its unpretentiousness and abundant flowering, it is very popular for indoor, balcony and garden cultivation.

Pelargonium is loved not only by Soviet grandmothers, but also by the inhabitants of Europe, actively decorating their balconies and loggias with it. It should be noted here that when growing a plant in spacious tubs, pots and in "free" soil in the garden, it blooms medium.

The greatest abundance of inflorescences of different colors can be observed in geraniums growing in cramped pots (of course, moderately cramped).

In total, there are about 250 species in the Pelargonium genus, on the basis of which, in turn, many varieties have been bred.

The most popular and common types:

Royal (aka large-flowered) - differs in large flowers with zonal coloring of the petals. The middle is always darker and velvety, and the edges are very light;
Ivy (or thyroid) pelargonium is distinguished by glossy leaves and velvet flower petals. Its stems usually grow up to 1 meter in length, which has made the thyroid species popular for decorating balconies and loggias;
Zonal - feature of this species is the zonal coloration of the leaves, the edges are always slightly lighter than the center. This is one of the most common species and many varieties have been bred from it;
The angel is distinguished by the fragrantness of its leaves and flowers, similar to Pansies. The only drawback is the gradual decrease in flowers by autumn;
Fragrant pelargonium grows quite large and is therefore often used for landscaping gardens. True, you should be careful, because. it has very fragile stems that can break in strong winds.

Home care for beginners

In itself, the care of pelargonium is simple, and it is perfect for beginner gardeners or those who do not really like to mess with plants. The main thing is to keep a few simple rules and monitor the condition of the geranium. If something goes wrong, for example, you forget to water the plant, everything will be visible in appearance.

Site selection and lighting

Pelargonium is a photophilous plant that can withstand direct sunlight. The best place for its location there will be a south, east or west side. Although in hot weather, pelargonium can “throw off” almost all the leaves and only flowers remain.

Therefore, in a region with a hot climate and at the height of summer, it is better to remove the plant from the south side. You can do this calmly, because. moving does not affect geraniums.

In general, lighting should be plentiful, ideally daylight hours are 16 hours. With a lack of light, the stems begin to stretch and the plant loses its attractive appearance. In summer, it is better to take out geraniums on a balcony or in a garden so that it is directly under the sun.

When choosing a location and lighting, you should consider and individual characteristics species, so fragrant pelargonium prefers shaded places. And for the royal variety, direct sunlight is undesirable, so location on the south side should be avoided.

Temperature and humidity

The temperature regime, for pelargonium, is preferably moderate. She does not like cold weather or great heat.

Optimal performance:

in summer - +20 - +22 degrees;
in winter - +16 degrees;
some varieties can withstand short cold snaps (for example, zonal pelargonium will withstand a temperature drop to +1).

As for humidity, the usual indicators will do. Pelargonium does not require additional moistening (spraying). An extreme case is very dry air during a heat wave. But strongly wet air can lead to rotting of stems and roots, as well as the appearance of infections.

Also keep an eye on air circulation. It must be constant. In stale stagnant air, the plant will begin to hurt. This is especially important during wintering.

Watering and feeding

V frequent watering geranium is not needed. You need to navigate as the soil dries. But there are a few rules, in the summer the soil should always remain moist (but not wet).

The best way to check if it's time to water your pelargonium or not is to feel the soil. Upper layer should be dried, but under it (about 1 cm deep), the earth should already be moist.

In winter, watering is less frequent than in summer. The soil should dry out well. During cold weather, geranium water is needed 1 time in about 10 days.

After watering, be sure to wait until the water drains into the pan. After 10 minutes, drain the liquid and wait until it drains completely. It is best to irrigate in a pan rather than pouring water directly under the roots. The most know about it experienced gardeners and florists. But even if you do everything according to the "usual" - it's okay, the main thing is to remove excess liquid later. This rule applies to both winter and summer watering.

Feeding is even easier. It must be applied during the flowering period - this is approximately from early spring to late autumn. Once every two weeks, a solution is applied to flowering plants. You can choose any top dressing that is not rich in nitrogen. See the instructions for each specific fertilizer for dosage.

Transfer

Pelargonium practically does not need to be transplanted, the only exception is the transplantation of rooted cuttings, but more on that later. Pelargonium grows for about three years, therefore, usually, only the topsoil is replaced with a new one (the mixture is made in the same way as the soil in which the plant is already growing).

The soil for geraniums is a mixture of leafy and soddy soil mixed with sand and peat. The volume of each component is the same, i.e. the ratio is 1:1:1:1.

pruning

It is necessary to prune the plant annually, at the very beginning of the flowering period, i.e. in early spring. Usually all upper shoots are removed (then they can be used for reproduction). Such pruning allows you to give exactly the lateral growth of pelargonium and abundant flowering.

Bloom

The color of geraniums, as already indicated, is from early spring to late autumn. Flowering form - several umbrella inflorescences. They can be completely different colors (depending on the type and variety). The flowers also differ in size (in some species they are large, like in the royal, in others they are smaller).

Reproduction at home

Pelargonium home can be propagated in two ways: by seeds and using cuttings. The first, when growing at home, is not very common, since it is rather difficult.

For propagation by seeds, a container is prepared in the spring and filled with light soil. Seeds are sown in the soil and watered regularly. The first time temperatures should be 20-22 degrees.

As soon as the pelargonium has risen, the container is moved to a more lit place, but the temperature is already maintained at 15 degrees.

In the middle of summer, young plants are transplanted into a mixture of leaf and sod land with phosphorus and sand. In this case, the components are taken in equal quantities.

For vegetative propagation a small pot is taken by cuttings (about 19 cm in diameter). To begin with, drainage is laid at the bottom, and then a mixture of peat and sand is poured.

Cuttings should have 3-5 pairs of leaves, but not less than 2. They are cut off either at the knot, or a little lower. In cut cuttings, the lower pair of leaves is removed, leaving a bare “column”.

After preparing the cuttings, you need to make holes in the soil closer to the edge of the pot. After that, place the cuttings there so that all the leaves are above the soil and lightly tamp the soil.

Now you need to wait a few days until the roots "grip" to the soil. Only after that you can water the young sprouts. By mid-summer, transplant the pelargonium into larger pots.

The soil mixture is prepared from leaf and sod land, sand and peat, all in equal proportions.

Diseases and pests

Pelargonium, although a hardy plant, can also sometimes get sick, often this is due to improper care.

Geranium diseases:

gray rot;
rust;
verticillium wilt;
stem rot;
other pathogenic fungi, due to which various spots appear on the leaves and petioles.

If a plant begins to develop gray rot, then a gray coating begins to appear on its leaves, shoots, main stems and even flower petals. This is due to low temperatures, humidity and lack of ventilation, abundant watering.

Prevention:

observe in winter temperature regime required for pelargonium;
regularly ventilate the room;
do not put plants close to each other;
remove dry or diseased leaves;
do not water more than once every 10 days.

If you have already discovered gray rot, then first remove all affected areas. Treat the plant with a 0.5% copper chloride solution.

Rust

Rust can be detected by concentric brown circles on inside sheet. WITH outside plates will be visible only yellow circles.

Reasons: dampness, insufficient ventilation.

Treatment: you need to cut off all the affected leaves and treat the plant with a solution of benlat at the rate of 1 g per 1 liter.

verticillium wilt

This disease is caused by a fungus that infects the conducting system of pelargonium. Geranium leaves gradually wither and turn yellow. There is no cure.

stem rot

At the base of the stem begins to appear and increase black spot. Gradually, the stem completely rots at the base. Treatment is non-existent. The maximum that can be done is to cut the stalk from the top and prevent the disease itself. Reasons: too abundant watering.

Pests

Insects that infect pelargonium:

The whitefly is a very small white butterfly. Instead, the plant may still have white small larvae;
The mites live on the underside of the leaf and their presence can be detected by the characteristic thin web on the plant. When affected by a mite, the leaves gradually become marbled due to deprivation of nutrients;
Mealybug - found by characteristic lumps, similar to cotton wool, in the axils of leaves and stems.

At the time of purchase, carefully check the plant for whiteflies or mealybugs. If you suddenly find signs of pests or themselves - refuse to buy.

Treatment: reduce watering, thoroughly ventilate the area and you can apply additional fertilizer.

Possible problems and solutions

In addition to infecting the plant with various diseases and pests, less terrible problems are possible. They usually occur due to improper care and are treated by eliminating the cause.

Problems and solution:

If the leaves of the pelargonium begin to turn red, then the temperature is too low and the required temperature regime must be set;
Few flowers, but a large number of leaves - you are applying a lot of fertilizer, reduce the amount, or rather temporarily stop feeding;
The lower leaves turn yellow - lack of moisture and lack of ventilation.

The key to taking care of it amazing plant is to follow all the simple rules or correct the situation in time. Otherwise, the plant does not cause inconvenience and pleases the eye with its flowering.

Some tips for shaping lush bush pelargonium is in the next video.