Dahlias, cultivation and care, photo of flowers. During the procedure

Dahlia flowers are luxurious ornamental plants with a fairly long flowering period. According to one old, very beautiful legend, in the old days this flower was grown only in the garden of the king, and it was guarded like the apple of an eye. But one of the gardeners took a chance and planted a beautiful plant under the window of his beloved. That gardener was imprisoned, but the flower, thanks to his courageous act, became known to people. There is another legend that says that a beautiful flower grew after the ice age on the site of an extinguished fire and became a symbol of the emerging life again.
Growing dahlias is a very exciting activity that will fill all your leisure time. This flower grows in nature only in some mountainous regions in Mexico. Once upon a time, root tubers, a flower, were used by the ancient Aztecs in cooking. The Europeans, on the other hand, did not like the taste of the root tubers, but they liked the lush beauty of the flower. In Russia, the flower is called a dahlia in honor of the botanist Georgi.

Site selection

For all their splendor, dahlias are actually completely undemanding flowers. Even in the shade of structures or tall trees, these flowers can bloom luxuriantly. But, if you plant a plant in the shade, then its flowers will be much smaller. If you want to grow strong plants that will bloom luxuriantly, then plant the tubers in a light partial shade. In the openwork partial shade, the flowering period of the bushes will be maximum.

The main condition that must be met when choosing a site is soil moisture. Flower tubers very easily rot from excess moisture, and therefore in lowlands where water stagnates, these plants should not be planted. Experienced growers in the selected area always make a drainage layer so that the water does not stagnate near the roots. Chipped brick or expanded clay can be used as drainage.
But plants are not demanding on the composition of the soil. And on depleted loam, and even on sandy soil, and on fat, fertile black soil, flowers will bloom equally magnificently. But nevertheless, it is advisable to add a little humus and compost to the ground in the selected area when digging in the fall, covering about 5 kg of fertilizer per square. In the spring, just before planting, it is necessary to scatter the matured compost (only not deciduous) on the ground and add some ash to the soil.
One of essential conditions in the cultivation of dahlias from tubers - this is an annual change of site. Although the dahlia is a rather capricious flower, and it is possible to save it from disease and degeneration only by constantly changing the site for planting. You cannot plant these flowers in the place where asters grew a year earlier or plants that previously (even more than a year ago) were sick with a fungus. How to plant dahlias and what are the secrets in growing dahlias?

Planting dahlias in open ground necessarily begins with the preparation of root tubers.

  1. In early spring, preferably in April, the tubers begin to prepare for planting - they are cleaned of dried roots, rotted, dried out areas are cut out on them, all scratches and damaged areas are treated with brilliant green.
  2. Then the tubers must be planted in containers that are filled with a nutritious substrate or moist peat. After planting, the tubers should protrude 2-3 cm above the soil level. The containers are then placed in a bright room with an air temperature of about +18 degrees.
  3. As soon as the first buds hatch, the tubers should be dug up and cut into pieces so that each has a strong bud. Usually, from one large root tuber, you can get about 5 parts with buds for planting. Then, for some time, the separated tubers are germinated in containers, in a warm room.
  4. The emerging lateral shoots are cut off as soon as they reach a height of 10 cm. Only after such pruning can root tubers be planted in the garden.

Read also: Horny Goat Weed for open ground

Do not rush to throw away the cut shoots - they can be used for grafting. The cuttings are planted in a substrate, placed in a dark place and watered well. After a while, the cuttings can be planted in the garden.
Usually the division of root tubers and cuttings are carried out in order to obtain more planting material. Also, dividing the tubers can reduce the degeneracy of varieties. If you do not need a large amount of planting material, then the tubers can not be divided.

You can propagate dahlias and seeds, not just root tubers. Dahlias grown from seeds will sprout very quickly, gain strength and be sure to bloom magnificently. But so that dahlias, when planting and leaving, are already in open ground you were pleased with abundant flowering, you need to know how to properly grow dahlias from seeds.

Growing dahlias from seeds is very simple:

  • about 7 days after sowing, shoots should appear together;
  • after 21 days, the seedlings must be dived into separate containers;
  • already at the end of May, young dahlias are planted in open ground;
  • by the fall, young plants have small nodules that can be planted next season.

Sometimes flower growers buy seedlings in stores, which is very convenient. It makes sense to acquire seedlings only before planting. Keep in mind that grown dahlias from tubers bloom more luxuriantly and are stronger.

Planting flowers

When to plant dahlias so that they have time to bloom magnificently? Planting dahlias in open ground is possible only in spring. But, if you are late, you can plant the tubers in June. When the threat of May frosts has passed and the ground warms up, sprouted tubers can be planted. If you plan to plant dahlias outdoors in early spring, then the plants should be sheltered from frost, although practice shows that there is no need to rush to planting.

When and how to plant dahlias? Experienced flower growers plant dahlias when there is no sun or in the evening.

Many growers do not know how to plant dahlias so that they form powerful bushes. The planting scheme for dahlias is as follows: for low-growing flowers, it is enough to leave about 60-80 cm between the plants, for tall varieties, the distance between the planting pits should be about 100 cm.

  1. In the prepared area for planting, holes are dug by the size of the tubers. Calculate the size of the hole right away, because fertilizer needs to be poured onto its bottom. These flowers love rotted manure that has lain for a couple of years.
  2. When planting, the base of the tuber is lowered into the hole, and its top should be 2 cm above ground level.
  3. When planting, make sure that the root collar is not covered with soil. It is on the root collar that growth buds are located - new stems. If you deepen the root collar too much, then the root tuber may simply rot.
  4. It is advisable to sprinkle the planted tuber with a layer of mulch or at least make a ring-shaped depression around the planting hole in which water will stand.
  5. After planting, the plants must be spilled abundantly with water. Mulch with a layer of 5 cm of broken tree bark or sawdust, after mixing them with compost

If you will plant decorative tall varieties, then immediately upon planting, install a support to which you will tie up fragile stems.

Read also: Mountain cornflower: planting, reproduction, application

Care

How to properly care for dahlias? Decorative varieties need enough painstaking care, but the time and effort spent will return to you in the form of lush, luxurious plants. Growing luxurious dahlias is a feasible task even for inexperienced gardeners.

Stealing

Grasshopping is the removal of excess stems. Although this is not the main thing in care, it is still worth pinning these flowers. If you want very large flowers and strong bushes, then no more than 3 stems should be left on each bush. Experienced growers do not recommend leaving many shoots on the bushes.

Growing sturdy plant specimens involves formative pruning. It is imperative to carry out formative pruning of bushes throughout the summer. The fact is that the bushes are intensively gaining green mass, while they do not form buds. For the proper development of the bush and abundant flowering one central stem and about 3-4 branches should be left on each plant. Everything else must be deleted. For a tall dahlia plant, care also means removing the leaves from the tuber 45 cm up. This will allow the plant to channel more energy into flowering.

If you are going to grow cut flowers, then caring for dahlias must necessarily include removing excess buds. On each shoot, the plant has a central bud and two lateral ones. Pinch the central bud.

Watering

If you want to grow luxurious bushes, then you need to know how to water dahlias correctly. It is necessary to water the dahlia flower regularly, but without fanaticism. Plants that are watered too abundantly can simply rot. When watering adult dahlias, you need to soak the ground by about 30 cm - this will be quite enough. Water the plants as the soil dries up. The decorative dahlia is especially fond of watering during dry periods.

Top dressing

The first time you need to feed the dahlias even when planting the tubers. When dahlias are planted in spring, fertilizers are immediately applied to the holes. You can add organic matter. The next top dressing is already done when the bushes begin to gain green mass. These flowers are very fond of fertilizers with nitrogen, respond well to the introduction of wood ash and superphosphate. It is recommended to feed the flowers every two weeks until the end of flowering.

Fertilizers are very convenient to apply during watering. This will greatly simplify the care of the dahlias. You can also feed dahlias with manure, but only rotted.

How to feed dahlias so as not to harm? These flowers can react to fertilizers in different ways. It all depends on the lack or overabundance of one or another substance in the soil. It is not necessary to add ammonium nitrate or carbomide to the ground on which the plants grow. Plants can react badly to too much potassium salt. Dahlia feeding has not been done since August.

Garter support

The peculiarity of dahlias is that they have a hollow stem that can easily break from a gust of wind, so they must be tied to pegs. Many growers, even when planting flowers, put support pegs. When you dig the planting hole, immediately install the support, and only then plant the tuber. Wooden or plastic pegs will work as a support. Do not tie the stems to metal supports. The support must be driven deep enough into the ground so that it does not tilt during watering or due to rain.

If the shoot still breaks, try to "cure" it by applying a tire - attach a branch to the stem, and then tie the stem to the support. Planting and growing dahlias is a constant labor that will return in the form of lush blooming, powerful bushes.

Read also: Planting and caring for the Sakhalin Highlander

Preparation for wintering

Watering dahlias is stopped when the first cold autumn days come. At this time, you need to prepare for digging root tubers and laying them for the winter. Storing tubers is a very crucial step in caring for these plants and the most laborious in the entire growing process. If you do not follow all the storage rules, then the planting material may simply disappear over the winter.

When to dig up the tubers? With the onset of the first frost, the shoots of flowers begin to turn black. This is a signal that it is time to dig up the flowers. At a height of 20 cm, pruning shears should cut off the entire aerial part of the flower. After that, the tubers are carefully dug out with a pitchfork.
How to care for dahlias stored for winter storage? When the tubers are dug up, all the ground must be cleared from them. Then the stem is cut again by 7 cm. All tubers are washed in cool water, and then kept for half an hour in a weak solution of manganese. After the destruction of bacteria in potassium permanganate, the tubers should be air-dried. Only after these procedures can the tubers be stored. Then next year you will have gorgeous flowers.

It is necessary to store tubers in winter at a temperature of +5 degrees and an air humidity of about 60-70%. The room should be well ventilated and dark.

The tubers are put in boxes with peat or sawdust. For storing root tubers, it is good to use a basement or cellar.
If there is no basement and cellar, then the tubers should be placed in plastic bags with wet sawdust or peat, put in cardboard box and put in a cool place, for example, on a loggia.
Throughout the winter, the tubers must be inspected in order to stop the spread of rot in time. If you
find a rotting area, then you just need to cut it off with a knife and process it with charcoal powder or brilliant green.

Application in landscaping

If you decide to plant several varieties of these flowers in a group planting, pay attention to the dark-leaved species. Especially decorative varieties with rich cherry-colored foliage, which have white flowers. Blue dahlia with bronze foliage looks great. Dark-leaved varieties are usually used to create dark spots in flower beds. Be sure to plant dark-leaved dahlias that are no different from other varieties.

  • Very often, these flowers are planted in multi-colored groups in small areas. Dahlias white, yellow, pink, maroon form one bright, summer mix of flowers in a flower bed.
  • The blue dahlia looks very beautiful in a double border next to a yellow daisy.
  • Perfect neighbors for these flowers are begonias, alissums, perilla.

Dahlias, popular among gardeners, despite their height, can be grown at home in pots. But at the same time, you need to take into account the specifics of growing and select the appropriate varieties.

Choosing a dahlia variety that is suitable for growing in pots

For planting dahlias at home or on the balcony, varieties with a small root system are selected. Special varieties of indoor low-growing dahlias have been developed - for growing in pots at home. These are pot-dahlias, miniature dahlias, etc. But you can also grow high varieties. It is important to choose the right container for planting and take care of the support if the flower has grown to 85-90 cm.

Pot selection

Indoor dahlias can be planted in plastic containers, wooden, wicker, clay, different sizes... What's better?

What container to use

In plastic containers, overheating of the soil is possible, the access of oxygen to the roots is reduced. Wicker baskets do not have these drawbacks, but they are usually short-lived. Wooden boxes are comfortable for flowers, but not decorative enough for a room or balcony. For attractiveness, they can be painted, but then air permeability is impaired. In a clay or ceramic pot, the roots of dahlias do not lack oxygen. These pots are attractive and durable.

I need to find a big pot


To plant a dahlia, you need a large pot. When choosing a volume, you should take into account the dimensions of the flowers. The size of the root system for low varieties requires a capacity of 4-5 liters. Medium-sized dahlias will feel comfortable in pots of 7-8 liters. For flowers with a height of more than 90 cm, 10 liters or more will be required.

Better to choose a heavy pot

The pot must be heavy. An adult dahlia requires a stable support, so plastic or wicker containers are not suitable. A thick-walled clay pot is able to maintain the stability of the flower.

Drilling holes

Dahlias do not tolerate excess moisture. If the water stagnates in the pot after watering, the roots will die due to the lack of oxygen. It is necessary to ensure the outflow of water through the drainage holes. If there is only one drain hole, drill several more to improve drainage.


Why is it necessary to rinse the pot thoroughly?

When using used pots, they must be pre-treated. Clay can contain microorganisms, insect eggs, fungi, accumulate salts, etc. Therefore, the pot should be thoroughly washed with soap and water and disinfected with a chlorine-free product before use.

Coarse soil mix

Dahlias are demanding on the quality of the soil. You can buy ready-made soil mix or mix it yourself. The soil should be coarse, loosened to provide air access to the roots. Peat, humus, sand are added to it. Experienced growers advise mixing perlite, hygroscopic granules of which remove excess moisture from the soil.


Landing

It is important to correctly determine the timing of planting so as not to spoil the planting material.

Landing dates

If the pots are in an apartment or on a heated balcony, then tubers can be planted as early as late March - early April. If the pots are planned to be exposed to the open air (on the porch, in the garden or on the open balcony), then it is better to wait until May, when even at night it will be at least 12 ° C.

Potted dahlias begin to bloom about 45-50 days after planting. This period can be reduced by providing the plants with warmth and sunlight.

Filling the pot


When filling the pot, pay special attention to the drainage layer.

Experienced growers advise placing one or two coffee filters on the bottom of the pot. They absorb moisture well and block the drainage holes, blocking them from pests.

You can add gravel to the bottom of the pot. The height of the drainage layer is about 15 cm. The drainage holes must remain free to allow water to drain out. Soil is poured onto the drainage. The height of the soil depends on the pot - about 20 cm should be left to the top edge.

The tubers are planted to a depth of about 15 cm. After planting, germination and backfilling of the tubers, the distance from the ground to the edge of the pot should be at least 2 cm. The backfilled soil should be moistened and slightly crushed - the ground should be loose.

Planting tubers


Tubers with short roots should be planted. If the roots are allowed to elongate, they will intertwine and be damaged if untangled. Root restoration will delay the growth and flowering of the dahlia.

The tuber is laid on the ground with the eye upwards so that the stem can grow unhindered. It is desirable that the sprout is located approximately in the center of the pot, and the distance from the ends of the roots to the wall of the pot is at least 5-6 mm.

The tuber is sprinkled with moistened soil; you do not need to fill up the peephole. As the stem emerges and grows, the soil is added, but very carefully so as not to damage the delicate sprout. The addition of soil continues until the distance to the edge of the pot decreases to 2-3 cm.

The pot with the planted dahlia is placed in a warm, bright place protected from the wind. Slight shading is possible in the evening.

Watering the soil


For planting, the soil is moistened. After planting, the dahlia does not require watering, the soil is only lightly sprayed warm water... Watering begins a few days later, after the formation of absorbent roots.

Fertilizers

For rapid growth and lush flowering flowers require feeding. Dahlias respond well to fertilizers based on algae and fish, bone meal. You can buy a ready-to-use plant feed mixture at a specialist store.

Apply fertilizer carefully with high level nitrogen. An excess of nitrogen leads to diseases of dahlias, they bloom poorly, the tubers do not tolerate wintering well.


Inserting a stanchion and anchoring the stem

For flowers of medium to tall stature, additional support will be required so that the stem can support the weight of the flower. As a rule, the height of the support does not exceed 120 cm. The support must be stable - it is inserted into the ground to the very bottom and, if necessary, is additionally attached to the pot (for example, using a wire).

The stem is carefully tied to the support.

Dahlias do not tolerate transplanting well, so experienced flower growers advise to immediately plant the tuber in a pot in which the flower will grow.

Care

Caring for potted dahlias is simple and includes:

  • watering,
  • loosening the soil,
  • top dressing,
  • protection from diseases and pests.

If potted dahlias grow outdoors (on open balcony, veranda, porch), then in adverse weather conditions they are simply temporarily brought into the room.

Watering the stem and soil

Dahlias do not tolerate excess moisture. Watering frequency depends on the weather. This is usually two to three times a week. If it's cool, just once is enough, depending on the condition of the soil. In dry and hot weather, you can water every day, avoiding stagnation of moisture.

After watering it is necessary to loosen the soil. Otherwise, a dried earth crust is formed, which does not allow oxygen to pass to the roots.

Lighting


Dahlias love sunlight. For high-quality growth and flowering, they need about 6-8 hours to be in direct sunlight. If the pots are on the balcony, choose the sunniest place for them. If dahlias are growing in the room, then it is useful to make up for the lack of sunlight with fluorescent lamps. The lamp can be installed immediately after planting at a level of 15 cm above the ground. As the dahlia grows, the lamp rises.

Fertilizer timing

Dahlias need a lot of potassium and phosphorus, to a lesser extent - nitrogen. Top dressing begins in June. Fertilizers are applied every two weeks when watering. Overfeeding with fertilizers should be avoided. Top dressing continues until September.

Removing the lower leaves

Around mid-July, the lower leaves are removed from the stem to improve air circulation. It also protects plants from powdery mildew disease.


Spraying with insecticide and fungicide

To protect against pests, potted dahlias are treated with a fungicide or insecticide twice a month.

Pests and methods of dealing with them

Yellowed and curled leaves are a signal of the appearance of aphids. If the colonies are single, then the damaged leaves are simply removed. In case of severe infection, an insecticide treatment is necessary.

Slugs gnaw through or completely destroy the leaves. To combat them, metaldehyde preparations, superphosphate, red pepper are effective - they scatter on the ground.

Plant bugs cause leaf boring. To get rid of them, dahlias are sprayed with insecticide. The treatment is best done in the morning, when the bugs are inactive.


Earwigs spoil the buds, gnawing out their core. Watering once a week with a decoction of wormwood or celandine helps from earwigs.

When mold appears, fungicide treatment helps.

In case of a disease with powdery mildew, treatment with a preparation containing copper is necessary. Sulfur treatment can be applied.

Wintering dahlia

At the first autumn frosts, even if dahlias grow in the house, you need to think about winter rest. Before winter, the dahlia is cut, leaving 4-5 cm of the stem. The tubers can be dug up or left in the same pots in which they grew.

The dug tubers are carefully cleaned from the ground, treated with a solution of potassium permanganate of medium brightness and dried. They are stored in a cool dry place at an air temperature of about 5 0 C. So that they do not dry out during storage, the tubers can be sprinkled with sawdust, sand, peat.


During wintering, protruding roots are cut off in a pot, the pot is wrapped in newspaper in several layers and packed in an opaque bag. Until spring, the pots should be kept in a cool dry place.

Dahlias are divided into classes based on their appearance and the organization of the inflorescence.

In modern gardening, 10 of the most popular varieties are planted:

  1. Varietiescollar... Dahlias of this class grow up to 1 meter. They look like a collar, thanks to the outer edge row of flowers, at the top of which there are twisted petals of a different color. Hootenanny is a cultivar with a core yellow color with a red inflorescence. The flowers are very large. Claire de Luna has a creamy bloom. An adult bush is 1 meter tall.
  2. Anemone varieties... The inflorescences are characteristic in appearance and similar to a terry anemone. They are adorned with large, oval flowers of one row. The core has oblong tubular petals. In this class, the Boogie Woogie variety can be distinguished. It is distinguished by a falsely ligulate lilac bloom in 3 rows, which creates an additional volume of the basket. The yellow color of the tubular petals makes the flower visually lush.
  3. Peony varieties... Flowers of this species practically do not differ from the appearance of peonies. Falsely ligulate flowers form 3 circles and surround tight-fitting tubular petals. Very large baskets. The bush reaches up to 70 centimeters in height, ideal for growing a hedge of flowers. A representative of this Fascination class, it stands out for its neat appearance and pink color of the inflorescence, which mainly emphasizes it against the general background of the flower garden.
  4. Cactus varieties... The disheveled appearance of the bloom is characteristic of the name of this class of dahlias. The basket is very large in size with long and sharp petals, which chaotically diverge from the middle of the flower. The Bevensen variety has a delicate ─ purple color and grows up to 1.5 meters.
  5. Nymphaean varieties... Have correct shape and in appearance they hardly resemble water lily... Growth on average about 1 meter, with a flower diameter of 20 centimeters. The flowers, ligulate, form 7 rows, while several rows in the middle of the flower do not open. Almand Joy has won sympathy for itself due to the large size of the flower and the combination of pink and white color of the petals.
  6. Globular varieties... The spherical shape, large inflorescence and high growth distinguish this class from other types of dahlias. The curled, tightly set reed petals give it a nice, rounded shape. A bush can have about 20 of these blooming balls at a time. The new variety Icoon attracts the eye with its variegated color. The color of the basket is yellow, with red ends.
  7. Decorative varieties... The most common variety in horticulture. The inflorescences have a double surface with flowers twisted and curved towards the stem. The basket is very large, up to 25 centimeters in diameter. In appearance, the flower is incredibly lush. Agnes Bernauer, a very striking representative of this class. A shrub of short stature with a variegated pink color, which attracts the attention of inveterate flower growers.
  8. Mixed varieties... This group of dahlias combines all existing species and hybrid classes, which for a number of reasons do not belong to other varieties. Such flowers can be found on the gardener's site extremely rarely, but, nevertheless, every year, amazing and unique varieties are born in this class.

Planting dahlias

Breeding dahlias implies responsible and painstaking work on the safety of tubers. But to save yourself the hassle, you can grow annual flowers using seeds. The seeds are sown in late spring, but dahlias will only delight you with flowering by August. For earlier flowering, it is recommended to germinate the seeds.

Planting dahlias with tubers requires careful preparation and a number of nuances:

  1. Dahlias calmly endure acidic soils, but a neutral environment is best.
  2. If the site has a soil with a very high acidity, the introduction of slaked lime into the soil will help to reduce it.
  3. If the acidity is insufficient, the soil is enriched with peat.
  4. After digging the site, in the fall, fertilizers such as humus or compost are applied to the soil.
  5. In early spring, the earth is loosened and wood ash is buried with a rake.
  6. In order for dahlias to be resistant to various diseases, each year you need to change the place for planting them.
  7. Asters are very susceptible to infection with fungal diseases, so dahlias should not be planted where they grew.

1. Selection and preparation of the site

The choice of the landing site must be taken with full responsibility. Dahlia flowers do not tolerate drafts and shade, therefore it is recommended to plant them on the calm, sunny side of the site.

The soil for planting must have good drainage... Hollows are unacceptable, as excess liquid can accumulate in them, which adversely affects the plant. The soil must be enriched nutrients and have a low acidity.

The structure of the soil is improved by introducing manure, deciduous humus, various composts, straw, peat.

At clay soils, it is necessary to improve the water resistance. This is done using sand, gravel or stone ash.

2. Preparation of tubers


With the onset of noticeable warming in spring, the preparation of tubers begins, which has a number of features:

  1. Clean the tubers from the dried root system;
  2. If there is damage, they should be cut off, and then treated with iodine or brilliant green;
  3. The tubers are planted in a box of nutrient-rich soil so that they can be seen above the ground. It is necessary to provide sunlight and an air temperature of about 20 degrees. The tubers should stay in this state for 14 days;
  4. With the appearance of visible buds, the tubers are divided into parts. It is necessary that on the piece there is a kidney that already has a root collar;
  5. It is recommended to grow cut parts of tubers, for a certain period, in a box, until the first shoots appear. Then the sprouts are broken off, and the tubers are planted in open ground;
  6. Cuttings can germinate, so they can also be planted in soil. Those that take root are dug up and transplanted to a sunny site.

3. Technology of planting in open ground

Planting dahlias in open soil has its own principles:

  1. Dahlias are planted exclusively in heated soil. They do this in early summer;
  2. The planting hole should be three times larger than the size of the root system;
  3. The bottom of the hole is fertilized with manure and sprinkled with a thick layer of earth. This is done so that the roots of the plant do not get burned;
  4. The dahlia tuber is carefully placed in the hole and instilled so that the stem of the flower goes into the ground by 2 centimeters;
  5. After planting, you need to make a mulch from sawdust with peat, a layer of about 5 centimeters and water the plant abundantly.

How to care for dahlias

  1. If the area with dahlias is mulched, then this will provide protection from slugs. It will save you from the hassle of weeding and loosening the soil and increase the rate of drying of the soil on hot summer days.
  2. If there is no precipitation for a long time, it is recommended to fill the flower with water 2 times a week.
  3. Watering in the summer should be moderately abundant. Do not allow excess moisture to stagnate in the roots of the plant, this can lead to their decay.
  4. On days of extreme heat, after watering, dahlias need to be spud. This action will prevent moisture from evaporating.
  5. When the time comes for the next watering, the land is raked off and watering is carried out, after that, it is rolled again.

1. Fertilizer


During intensive plant growth and immediately before planting, they are used different kinds and fertilization methods:

  1. It is customary to feed dahlias with manure dissolved in water. This is done once every 14 days.
  2. The initial feeding is carried out a week later, after planting in the soil. Then their introduction is done with an interval of 10 days. Florists recommend making recesses around the stem and fertilizing them, and then digging in with a small layer of earth.
  3. A mixture of ammonium nitrate, superphosphate and manure will be the ideal fertilizer for the flower in late spring.
  4. In order not to reduce flowering, you should not add in excess nitrogen fertilizers in the spring.
  5. Until mid-summer, top dressing with the presence of potassium and phosphorus is ideal. To do this, dilute 5 tablespoons of superphosphate in a bucket of water.
  6. At the end of summer, one potash top dressing is done.

2. Support

If high-growing varieties of dahlias are selected, the installation and fastening of the support will be required. The flower has an empty stem, and increased wind can damage it easily. Tall dahlia, must be tied to the base of the support.

If the stem is still broken, a tire applied will help to save the plant. For this, a strong branch or thin rod is taken and fixed in place of damage with a rope. The stem itself needs to be securely supported so that it does not tilt in different directions.

3. Cropping


Pruning plants implies a number of features:

  1. To achieve high-quality inflorescences, no more than 3 shoots should remain on the bush;
  2. It is advisable to leave only 2 buds on each peduncle;
  3. In order not to inhibit the growth of the flower, dried buds that have finished flowering must be removed;
  4. If the dahlia shrub is tall, the lower part of its stem must be removed from the shoots.

4. Fight against diseases and pests

The young stem of the flower is susceptible to attacks by slugs and two-tails. As soon as the first manifestations of the presence of pests appeared, it is necessary to process the plant. For these purposes irreplaceable assistant, a decoction of wormwood will come out.

Apply it at nightfall once a week. In the summer months, the bushes are sprayed with aphids and ticks. Pests do not tolerate soapy water, so in this case it will be the best remedy.

How to dig up dahlia tubers

Each stage of dahlia digging should be treated with extreme caution:

  1. With the onset of the first significant cold weather, the stem of the plant must be cut off, leaving only 5 centimeters above the ground.
  2. The cut must be wrapped. Foil is perfect.
  3. It is necessary to start digging in the morning. The tubers will have a whole day to air dry, after which the remnants of the soil are easily removed from the root system, and the fragility of the tuber neck decreases.
  4. 30 centimeters recede from the stem and dig in a circle.
  5. A pitchfork is used to cut the long roots. They are introduced into the ground and the entire root of the plant is pushed out.
  6. After digging out all the tubers, they are thoroughly washed under the pressure of water from a hose. Then allow to air dry.

How to properly store tubers in winter

High-quality storage of tubers in winter is the key to the success of their cultivation.

But for correct storage several conventions must be observed:

  1. Tubers left in the winter should not be overdried, otherwise they will sprout poorly;
  2. Visible damage must be removed and charcoal used to treat the cuts;
  3. An excellent storage temperature would be 5 degrees with an average room humidity. Ideally, a basement is suitable, preferably dry;
  4. You can fold the tubers in a box of peat so that they are covered at the bottom and top.
  5. For better preservation of tubers, they need to be wrapped in a film, this will not allow moisture to evaporate and prevent drying out;
  6. If there is no basement and the tubers will have to be stored in a house or apartment, then they must be placed near a cool place, for example, a balcony;
  7. Paraffin is an indispensable tool for storing dahlia tubers in winter. The tubers are placed in the melted paraffin for 5 seconds, the resulting film is allowed to dry and the procedure is repeated. Then take plastic bag and sand is poured into it, processed tubers are placed there. Before planting, the paraffin film is removed.

With proper care, correct fit and storage in winter, dahlias will become a decoration personal plot, and will delight you with flowering until frost.

Flowers dahlias (lat.Dahlia) the aster family are one of the most beautiful and long-blooming garden flowers, represented by the widest palette of colors and a variety of forms. They bloom from July until the very frost, and this is the most important, besides beauty, dahlia's dignity. The first dahlia tubers were brought to Europe from Mexico at the end of the 18th century. The dahlia got its name in 1803 from the botanist Karl Wildenau, who named the dahlia plant in honor of the famous botanist, ethnographer and geographer from St. Petersburg, academician Johann Georgi. There are about thirty species and about 15,000 varieties of dahlias.

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Planting and caring for dahlias (in brief)

  • Landing: from the second half of May to the second half of June.
  • Digging: in the fall, after the first frost.
  • Storage: at a temperature of 3-5 ˚C and an air humidity of 60-70%.
  • Bloom: summer and autumn.
  • Lighting: bright sunlight.
  • The soil: any, but fatty garden loam of slightly acidic or neutral reaction is preferred.
  • Watering: plentiful, 1-2 times a week.
  • Top dressing: organic and mineral every two weeks alternately.
  • Garter, hilling, pinching: obligatory for tall varieties.
  • Reproduction: seeds, tubers.
  • Pests: slugs, earwigs, slobbering pennies, flower beetles, aphids.
  • Diseases: powdery mildew, bacterial cancer, overgrowth, smut, gray rot and a viral mosaic.

Read more about growing dahlias below.

Features of growing dahlias

The shapes, colors and varieties of dahlia are so diverse that they can be used to decorate not only flower beds, but also curb lines, as well as as salt, even potted, plants. Dahlias are dazzlingly beautiful, but at the same time they are completely unpretentious. The main thing that is required for their successful growth and lush flowering is to choose the right planting site, to ensure required composition soil, timely watering and top dressing.

You need to buy seedlings not earlier than mid-spring, and the tubers should be fleshy and strong, with already noticeable, but not tall sprouts. It is better not to take soft or dry tuber.

How to grow dahlias

Growing dahlias involves time-consuming digging and responsible storage of tubers, but if you are intimidated by these chores, you can grow annual dahlias from seeds. Annual dahlias They are just as beautiful and unassuming in culture as perennials, and their choice is wide enough: Coltness Hybrids up to 50 cm high with abundant non-double flowers of various colors; bronze-leaved Redskin; terry small Rigoletto; early Figaro ... You can, having bought seeds, sow them in open ground in mid-May, but then they will bloom only by mid-August. If you want to achieve more early flowering, you have to germinate the seeds.

To do this, in early April you will need sow dahlia seeds into greenhouses or plastic containers, using calcined sand as soil: seeds are poured onto a layer of sand, which are again sprinkled with sand on top, well moistened and covered with transparent polyethylene. You need to germinate the seeds for about ten days at a temperature of 25-27 ° C, then the sprouts must be dived into separate pots. The soil mixture should be moisture-absorbing and loose, you can buy it, or you can prepare it: one part of peat and sand and two parts of leafy earth. Three days before the pick, the soil must be treated with a hot solution of potassium permanganate (70 °) of a dark pink color. After picking, the seedlings are watered as the soil dries up. In mid-May, it can be planted in the ground.

Where to plant dahlias

You need to start preparation with choosing a landing site... The dahlia flower hates drafts, but requires a well-ventilated and well-lit place, so dahlias need to be planted in a sunny area, protected from the wind. The soil on the site must be well-drained, permeable and nutritious. Dahlias can grow in soil with a lack or excess of acidity, but a slightly acidic or neutral environment will be optimal for them. If the soil on the site is too acidic (pH 5-4), add slaked lime to it, but if the pH is more than 8.5, you can "acidify" the soil with peat.

In autumn, when digging, enrich the area allocated for dahlias with humus and compost (3-5 kg ​​per 1 m 3). In the spring, before planting, sprinkle mature compost (not deciduous) and some wood ash on the site again and rake it. To save dahlias from diseases and prevent them from degenerating, it is advisable to change the planting site every year, giving the soil a rest from dahlias for at least three years. Do not plant dahlias where asters or plants that are susceptible to fungal diseases grew before them.

In the photo: Reproduction of dahlias by dividing the tuber

Preparing dahlia tubers for planting

In April, the roots of dahlia (tubers) should be prepared for planting: clean them of dry roots, remove damaged areas by treating all sections with brilliant green. Then the tubers are planted in a container with nutritious soil or peat so that the dahlia tubers protrude 2-3 cm above the surface, and they are kept for two weeks at a temperature of at least 18 ° C with good lighting. As soon as the buds appear, the tubers are cut into pieces so that each has a bud with a root collar. Sometimes one tuber gives five such parts. The tubers, divided into parts, need to be germinated for some time in the box, and then, after removing the side shoots that have reached a height of 10 cm, they must be planted in the soil. Cut shoots can be used as cuttings: plant in soil, place in a dark place and water well. The established cuttings are planted in a permanent place. The division of tubers and cuttings are carried out to increase the amount of planting material and prevent plant degeneration. If you do not have such a need, you can not divide the tubers.

Planting dahlias in open ground

You can plant dahlias in the ground when the ground warms up, usually in late May or early July. The holes for the dahlias should be three times larger than the lump of roots (40x40x40) so that the roots of the dahlia sink into them completely and there is still 5-7 cm left.At the bottom of the hole, lay a layer of rotted compost or manure, then sprinkle the manure with earth so as not to burn the roots of the dahlia , lay the sprouted tuber and dig in so that a few centimeters of the stem are underground. If you have chosen a variety of tall dahlias, install and secure immediately a support for the future stem. After planting, water the seedlings abundantly with cold water, and mulch the soil around them with a five-centimeter layer of fine tree bark or sawdust, having previously mixed them with peat or compost.

Dahlia care

How to care for dahlias

Mulching the site with dahlias, in addition to protecting plants from slugs, it will give you the opportunity to abandon such tedious work as weeding and loosening the soil, and also prevent the soil from drying out quickly on hot days. Watering dahlias should be abundant 1-2 times a week (if it does not rain), but do not let moisture stagnate in the roots: dahlia tubers are prone to decay. In extreme heat, hilling after watering helps to retain moisture. Before the next watering, you need to shake off the soil from the stems, water the plants, and then huddle again.

Fertilizing dahlias

In the process of growth, dahlias need to be fed every two weeks, alternating mineral fertilizers with organic ones: ammonium nitrate (15 g per 1 m 3), tincture of mullein 1:10 or bird droppings 1:20. With the appearance of the first buds, superphosphate is introduced and potash fertilizers at the rate of 30 g per bucket of water (enough for 8 bushes).

Support for dahlias

Since dahlias have a hollow stem and strong wind or rain can break them, it is necessary to tie a dahlia to the support peg. If the stem does break, try putting a tire on it: attach a strong branch to the stem, secure it and support the stem so that it does not bent. Timely and careful caring for dahlias can save even a broken shoot, which will reward you with a beautiful bloom for your care.

Dahlia pruning

If you are not interested in the quantity, but in the quality of the inflorescences, do not leave more than three shoots in the bush, otherwise the inflorescences will be smaller in size and not so decorative. On each peduncle, you need to leave 1-2 buds. Remove faded buds so that they do not delay the formation and growth of new ones. Try to remove lower lateral shoots from dahlias throughout the season. high grades, these shoots can then be used as cuttings. In undersized (pompom, cactus) and single dahlia bushes, side shoots can not be removed.

Dahlia pests

Young juicy dahlia stems attract slugs, and the buds attract earwigs, so when the first signs of pest aggression appear, treat the bushes in the evening with broths of wormwood or celandine about once a week. In hot weather, spray dahlias with systemic insecticides against thrips, aphids, ticks and caterpillars. Most of all pests of dahlias are fond of aphids. Try the tried and tested grandfather's way to combat it: spraying plants with soapy water.

Dahlia tubers harvesting

After the first frost dahlia tubers need to be dug, cut off the remaining foliage and pagons, leaving only five to ten centimeters of the stem. Some gardeners cut the stems and leaves a few days before digging up the tubers, but if moisture gets on the cut part, the base of the stem may rot, so after cutting off the stems, immediately cover the dahlias with aluminum foil. The tuber neck is particularly fragile, so start digging up the tubers in the morning, in dry weather, so that they have time to air dry and become less "brittle". In addition, soil residues are easier to remove from dried tubers.

Digging dahlia tubers

Dig in the plant on all four sides at a distance of about 30 cm from the stem to cut the long, conductive roots, move the pitchfork under the earthen ball and push it out of the ground. Thoroughly scrape dirt off the tubers and turn them over to dry. When you dig up all the tubers, rinse them from a garden hose from the soil, which contains microorganisms that carry diseases. Do not be late in harvesting tubers, because after the first frost, warming may occur, and the dormant buds in the tubers may wake up and begin to sprout, which is detrimental to plants at such a time.

How to store dahlias in winter

Proper storage of dahlias in winter is 90% of the success in growing them. Tubers left for winter storage should not dry out too much, because in spring they give rise to weak shoots. Insufficient drying leads to the fact that the roots rot during storage. If any mechanical damage is found on the tubers, they need to be cut and then sprinkled with charcoal. Root collars, so that they do not rot during storage, are powdered with ash or chalk.

It is best to store dahlia tubers at a temperature of 3-5 ° C with an air humidity of 60-70% in a well-ventilated area. A dry basement is fine, but vegetables stored nearby can create high humidity, increasing the risk of rot and fungal diseases in tubers. You can put the tubers in a box on a layer of dry peat and sprinkle it with peat, you can use coniferous sawdust or sand instead of peat. If the tubers suddenly begin to dry out or wither, the insulating material is slightly moistened. If there is no ventilation in the basement, you will have to turn on the fan for half an hour three times a week.

In the photo: Storing dahlia tubers in plastic bags

If you don't have a basement or cellar and have to store dahlia tubers in your apartment, place the tubers in the coolest place (next to the balcony). You can put the tubers in plastic bags with insulating material (sawdust, sand, dry peat) and tie tightly. Some growers, wrapping each tuber in newspaper, put them in a plastic bag, which they put in a cardboard box and put in a cool place, for example, on a glazed loggia. Only in this case, you will have to monitor the temperature outside all the time so that a sudden cold snap or frost does not ruin your planting material.

Warm and humid rooms are least suitable for storing dahlia tubers, but you can store them even in such unsuitable conditions if you cover the tubers with paraffin. Melt the paraffin in a water bath, immerse the tuber in it for a second, let the film harden for a few seconds, and again immerse the tuber in liquid paraffin. After the waxing procedure, place the tubers together with dry peat, sand or sawdust in a plastic bag and tie it tightly. Before planting, these tubers will need to be rubbed lightly to crack the film.

During the winter, do not forget to inspect the tubers in order to be able to eliminate the possible appearance of rot in time. The affected areas should be cleaned to healthy tissue and treated with hardwood charcoal powder or brilliant green.

Types and varieties of dahlias

Dahlias are classified according to the shape and structure of inflorescences, in modern culture there are 12 main classes of dahlias, but as new varieties appear, new classes appear.

So, the most popular varieties of dahlia:

Simple

Dahlias with one row of flowers, reaching a diameter of 10 cm, a height of 45 cm to 60 cm.Simple dahlias include varieties Yellow Hammer yellow, pink Princess Marie Jose, reddish orange Orangeade

Anemone

From one or more rows of marginal flowers, elongated tubular flowers in the middle. Inflorescences reach 10 cm in diameter, from 60 cm to 90 cm in height. The most popular varieties are bronze Vera Higgins, yellow-lilac Lucy, red Comet.

Collar

Dahlias of the same size, but taller - from 75 cm to 120 cm.They have one marginal outer row of flowers, on top of it there is a row of shorter and twisted flowers of a different color, looking like a collar: Chimborazo (red with cream), La Gioconda (scarlet with gold), Claire de Luna (yellow with cream).

Peony

Dahlias are slightly larger - from 12 cm to 15 cm, flat marginal flowers from two or more, in the center - tubular flowers. In height, they reach the same dimensions as collar. Popular are the lilac Fascination and the crimson red Symphonia dahlia.

Dahlias are very popular among garden flower lovers due to their long flowering period and spectacular appearance. At the same time, the dahlia family is represented by flowers of various shapes and colors. They are used not only in flower beds, but also as curb and even potted plants.

The article talks about the features of growing dahlias in the open field, and also highlights the nuances of caring for them.

General information about dahlias

Dahlias (Dahlias) are representatives of the Aster family. They have a large number of varieties, different both in shape and color. The plant has a long flowering period that begins in mid-summer and ends during the first fall frost.


Figure 1. External features of dahlias

With its spectacular appearance dahlias are completely unpretentious. Propagated by modified underground shoots - root tubers. To date, breeders have bred more than 10 thousand varieties of dalii (Figure 1).

Variety of dahlias

Among a large number of crop varieties, there are giants, the stem height of which exceeds 1 meter, and miniature plants in the form of small compact bushes. However, the main feature of the classification is the structure of the inflorescences (Figure 2).

Based on this, the following groups of Daliy are distinguished:

  • Single row (simple)
  • Collar
  • Anemone
  • Peony
  • Spherical
  • Decorative
  • Pompom
  • Cactus
  • Semi-cactus
  • Lotus (nymph)

Figure 2. Some popular types of flower (from left to right): collar, peony, globular, cactus

Features of planting in open ground

The timing of planting dahlias in open ground is determined by the climatic conditions of the area. For example, in the middle lane, they begin to be planted in the first decade of June with grown tubers. In the southern regions, planting can be done earlier - in mid-May. At the same time, unprocessed divided plants are planted in the ground, which give young shoots. In this case, the gardener needs to take care of sheltering them from possible spring frosts.

Note: For planting, you will need a pre-prepared area with dug holes and supports placed around them (for tall varieties). In this case, the distance between the holes should be half the height of an adult plant, and between the rows - at least a meter. As supports, you can use both wooden and metal stakes, 160-180 cm long, which are hammered to a depth of about 40 cm.

Planting is recommended in the evening or in cloudy weather. The plant is planted as close to the support as possible so that the top of the tuber is 5 cm below ground level (Figure 3). At the same time, experienced gardeners are advised to pre-shed heavily cuttings or specimens obtained from divided tubers in order to plant them together with a moist clod of earth. For the convenience of watering, it is necessary to fill in the planting holes not completely, or to make ring-shaped holes around the planted plants. The seedlings should be tied to a support immediately and continue to be tied as the plants grow.

Planting and caring for annual dahlias

Annual dahlias can be grown both through seedlings and seeds. Experienced gardeners recommend giving preference to seedlings, since in this case you can get flowering plants as early as June. The cultivation process consists in sowing seeds in boxes with prepared soil, and then in planting young plants in open ground. A mixture of sand, peat and perlite is used as a nutrient substrate, which is carefully spilled before planting. Seeds are laid out on the surface of the soil, lightly sprinkled and sprayed with water from a spray bottle.

Note: Usually, there are no complications in the process of growing seedlings. However, it is worth considering that watering should be moderate, since waterlogging of the soil can lead to the development of diseases.

It is recommended to cover the seeded containers with glass or plastic wrap and leave in a bright, warm place. After the first shoots appear, the shelter can be gradually removed. Fortified seedlings dive into separate pots filled with a nutrient mixture of sand, peat and turf soil, the volume of which should be at least half of the total volume. In this case, the first leaves of the planted plant should be at the same level with the soil.

Rooted seedlings are fed with any complex fertilizer in half the dose. After the fourth pair of leaves appears on the plant, the stem is pinched. Seedlings are planted in a permanent place when the threat of spring frosts has passed. In this case, the seedlings are placed at a distance of 30-60 cm from each other, depending on the size of the plants. In the first days after planting in open ground, it is recommended to cover the seedlings. Sowing seeds directly into open ground is practiced in the last days of May, when the soil warms up to a sufficient depth. The sown bed is covered with polyethylene and kept under cover until shoots appear.


Figure 3. Step-by-step instructions for planting tubers in open ground

Annual dahlias, like other representatives of this family, are quite unpretentious, therefore they do not need any special feeding. However, you should be aware that the root system of the daliy is very sensitive to excess moisture. Therefore, when choosing a plot for flowers, make sure that the soil has good moisture permeability, because the need for moisture for them increases only during drought.

Planting and caring for perennial varieties

Perennial dahlias are beautiful unpretentious flowers that delight the eye with a riot of colors and a variety of forms. Shrubs prefer sunny locations, sheltered from the wind. Grow well on any soil, except waterlogged. Landing in open ground is preceded by preliminary preparation, during which the tubers of flowers are cleaned of dried roots and planted in boxes filled with a substrate that retains moisture well.

The containers are kept in a well-lit room at a constant temperature of + 18 + 22 degrees. After the sprouts appear, they begin to divide the tubers. It is produced with a sharp knife, while being careful not to damage the roots. Each separated part should carry several buds. Tubers can be planted directly in open ground or left in crates to speed up the flowering process.

A little compost or humus should be added to the bottom of the planting hole, then lay the tubers and carefully sprinkle with earth. In this case, the root collar should not be buried too deep in order to avoid decay. In the first week after planting, the seedlings can be watered daily, then watering must be reduced, otherwise the tubers will begin to rot.

You will find more information on planting these flowers in the video.

Dahlia care

Perennial dahlias do not need special care... It will be enough to provide them with optimal conditions for growth and flowering. So, on dry days, it is necessary to water more often. It is recommended to spud the grown plants to a height of 15 cm and tie them to a support, repeating the garter as the flower grows. After watering or heavy rain, the soil under the bushes should be loosened, while removing the weeds.

To extend the period and profusion of flowering, it is recommended to remove not only faded buds, but also all lateral shoots of large-flowered varieties. To increase the number of inflorescences, it is recommended to pinch the stem over the fourth pair of leaves.

Fertilizer

Perennial dahlias need regular feeding. It can be carried out using organic and mineral fertilizers. Nitrogen fertilizing contribute to the growth of green mass and, accordingly, a deterioration in the quality of flowering. For this reason, it is not recommended to use nitrogen-containing fertilizers for feeding. The choice of the type of feeding is determined by the composition of the soil. So, soil rich in humus needs more mineral feeding, and organic soils are suitable for newly developed soils.

Dahlia feeding is carried out by the following methods:

  • During the digging of the site;
  • Simultaneously with planting;
  • Root and foliar method.

So, during the autumn digging, organic fertilizers that did not have time to decompose enough: manure, compost (3-6 kg per 1 sq. m.), bird droppings (at the rate of 1-2 kg per 1 sq. m.), and in the spring - wood ash, peat, superphosphate ... Ammonium nitrate, carbamide, potassium salt and potassium chloride are easily washed out of the arable layer and are not absorbed by the plant roots. Therefore, it is inappropriate to introduce these substances during the digging of the soil.

If the soil contains a sufficient amount of organic matter, it will be wiser to apply fertilizer directly when planting in the planting holes. Manure or leaf compost (humus) in combination with wood ash or stove soot (at the rate of 3-4 tablespoons of ash per 1 bucket of compost) is best suited for these purposes. When planting, a quarter of a bucket of the mixture is poured into each hole, mixed with the soil and the tubers are planted.

Support

Since dahlias have hollow stems inside that break when the wind blows, tall varieties need to be tied to a support. Both wooden and metal stakes can be used as supports (Figure 4). At the same time, supports made of coniferous trees are much stronger than those of deciduous ones. In addition, it is recommended to impregnate the lower part of the wood stakes. special formulations against decay, for example, a 7% solution of ferrous sulfate. More durable are metal supports, which can be made from the remains of pipes or pieces of reinforcement, the diameter of which is from 12 to 20 mm.


Figure 4. Types of flower supports

It is important to know that the support pegs are installed together with the planting of tubers or in front of it, since driving a peg near an adult plant, you risk damaging its rhizome. For growing small varieties, supports with a height of 30 cm are well suited, tall varieties need the same high support - at least 1.5 meters.

Pruning

In order to increase the number of inflorescences, tall varieties are amenable to formative pruning, that is, they remove all lateral shoots that appear from the leaf axils. This process is called pinching. It must be carried out regularly from the moment of planting in the main place until the buds appear on the main stems. You should be aware that such varieties of dahlias as collar, dwarf and all small-flowered are not pinned (Figure 5).


Figure 5. Basic crop pruning methods

It is also recommended to remove excess buds, especially if the flowers are intended for cutting. As a rule, the middle bud in each group of inflorescences is removed, since it is he who has the shortest peduncle. In addition, in tall varieties, it is customary to also remove the lower leaves that cover the root collar and slow down the ripening of tubers. In dahlias grown from a tuber, two of the strongest shoots are left, and in cuttings, only one. In the process of flowering, it is necessary to remove faded buds that spoil decorative view bush.

Pests

More often than others, young specimens with juicy stems, leaves and petals are susceptible to the influence of pests. So, earwigs settle on the delicate petals of the future flower, as a result of the activity of which the buds of the plant acquire an ugly appearance. You can defeat these insects by spraying with decoctions of bitter herbs (wormwood, celandine).

Common slugs, which can be collected by hand, can cause great harm. Among the pests are also called thrips and scoop caterpillars. And the most common pest of these flowering plants is aphid. They fight it with folk methods, washing off the leaves with an ash and soap solution, spraying the bushes with infusions of onion peels and garlic, or with the help of other biological and chemicals(Aktara, Decis, Fitoverm).

Dahlias are susceptible to the attack of the red spider mite, which reproduces especially actively during the summer drought. By drinking the sap of plants, the mite weakens the plants, as a result of which they dry out. In order to prevent damage spider mite it is recommended to spray the leaves of the bushes with cold water during a drought. To treat infected plants, special insecticides are used.

Digging up tubers

Autumn work in the garden for caring for dahlias consists in digging out tubers and laying them for winter storage. The tubers can be dug up after the plant has emerged from the flowering period and the aboveground part dries up. It is recommended to carry out this procedure on the first warm frost-free day to prevent premature awakening of the kidneys.

Unfaded stems are cut 3-4 cm higher from the root collar, then the tubers are removed from the soil with a shovel. They are placed in boxes and stored for several weeks in a cool and humid place. Then the nests of the tubers should be cleaned of dry scales and small roots, processed the cut points and sent for storage.

The video shows how the tubers are excavated annual varieties.

Storing dahlias in winter

Prepared tubers in winter are stored in boxes, the bottom of which is covered with a layer of earth 3 cm thick. Top of the tubers must also be completely covered with soil. Boxes with planting material are kept in storage with high humidity air at a temperature of + 1 + 7 degrees (Figure 6).


Figure 6. Features of winter storage of tubers

Sometimes it is practiced to store tubers in a coated form, that is, covered with a layer of clay and dried. In an apartment, dahlia planting material is stored in tightly tied plastic bags, sprinkling the tubers with any dry insulating material, for example, sawdust, ash, peat, sand. The safest way to store tubers in warm rooms is to use paraffin wax. Planting material dipped in melted paraffin, which, after drying, forms a reliable layer, which not only protects the tubers from unfavorable external factors, but also prevents the risk of drying out.