Is it possible to root a carnation from a bouquet. Growing strong seedlings

Carnation bearded ( Dianthus barbatus ) - herbaceous plant of the Clove family.

Stems: non-flowering, spread on the ground.

Peduncles: straight, strong, knotty, 20-60 cm high.

Leaves: sessile, lanceolate, opposite. Depending on the variety, they can be light green, dark green or reddish.

Flower color: white, cream, pink, red, burgundy, variegated, often with an eye and a border. Velvety flowers, exuding a light aroma, consist of 5 petals, the size of an individual flower is 1.5-2.5 cm. Simple or double flowers collected in apical dense thyroid inflorescences with a diameter of 8-12 cm.

Bloom: begins in late May-early June and lasts 1-1.5 months.

Fetus: cylindrical box. Seeds remain viable for 3-5 years.

Where is the best place to plant a barbatus?

Barbatus prefers light, non-acidic soils, rich nutrients... Differs in cold resistance and frost resistance.

Requires good drainage, does not tolerate stagnant water.

Unlike other types of carnation, it is undemanding to light, it can bloom in partial shade, but less abundant bloom in shade.

The plant is perennial, in culture it is bred as a biennial - in the first year it forms a rosette of leaves, in the second - flowers.

Breeding methods for Turkish carnations

Turkish carnation is propagated by seeds, green cuttings, layering, dividing the bush.

Seed method

Seeds are sown at the end of May, shoots appear in two weeks. In early August, developed sockets are transplanted to permanent place at a distance of 20-30 cm.

In July, you can sow seeds immediately to a permanent place, thin out the seedlings, and cover young plants with spruce branches for the winter.

Our advice:

When breeding by seed method at terry varieties some plants turn out to be non-double, and undersized varieties give part of tall plants.

Propagation by green cuttings

Therefore, it is better to propagate especially valuable varieties of Turkish carnations with green cuttings.

They are cut in June, rooted in the garden, periodically sprinkled.

The cuttings take root after 3 weeks and can be transplanted to a permanent place in the fall.

How to propagate by layering?

It is even easier to propagate barbatus by layering. In late July and early August, the creeping stems are sprinkled with earth (you can make shallow cuts on the stem for better rooting).

The top of the stem is tied to a peg to keep it upright. After 5 weeks, the rooted layers are cut from the mother plant and planted in place.

Our advice:

For this carnation to develop as a perennial, you need to sprinkle all young shoots with long, bare stems with nutritious soil.

With this method of reproduction, a carnation can live and bloom well in one place for up to 10 years.

Ease of care

In order for the carnation to bloom profusely and for a long time, the soil is fertilized with rotted manure or compost. Fresh manure can be applied in the fall.

Turkish carnation is responsive to fertilizing with mineral fertilizers.

Lack of nitrogen causes yellow leaves and stunted growth. With a deficiency of potassium, the stems become fragile, flexible, the leaves die off. With a lack of phosphorus, seed maturation slows down.

Decorative use

Barbatus is planted in rabatkas, in flower beds, and is used as a border plant. This carnation looks good in separate bright groups on the lawn and in containers.

Low-growing varieties add charm to rocky gardens.

Variety of varieties and types

Bearded carnation ( Dianthus barbatus) many varieties of various colors and heights. The most famous are:

Schneeball - bushes up to 40 cm tall, double flowers, white, with a serrated edge, inflorescences up to 11 cm in diameter;
Diadem - bushes up to 45 cm tall, dark crimson flowers with a large white eye, inflorescences up to 10 cm in diameter;
Heimatland - 45-50 cm high, shoots and leaves are dark green with a red tint, flowers up to 2 cm in diameter, dark red with a pronounced eye, inflorescences up to 12 cm in diameter;
Kupferrot - 45-50 cm high, copper-red flowers with a serrated edge, inflorescences 9-10 cm in diameter.

Old varieties are also popular:

Mazurka - with white non-double flowers with a pinkish ring;
Fiery heart - with bright red flowers;
Midget - dwarf variety with dark red flowers;
Coal - with black-crimson-purple flowers with white stamens.

Of the novelties of foreign selection, it is worth noting the English mixtures of Wee Willy, Rondo, Roundabout, they are distinguished by dwarf growth (15-20 cm).

Tall, up to 60 cm, the Holland variety is notable for its two-colored flowers with rings or colored edges. Dutch breeders have also bred turkish carnation series Noverna, which blooms in the first year, it can be grown as an annual.

Tina Simkovich
© The Ogorodnik magazine
Photo: depositphotos.com

The first cuttings are removed 2 months after the queen cells are pinched, depending on the time of their planting. For this, mature shoots with 4-5 internodes are used. A mature cutting should have 2 well-developed internodes, 2-3 pairs of leaves, a sultan and a round stem (Fig. 17, a). 2-3 developed nodes are left on the shoot to ensure the future harvest. In order for the mother plants to produce well, cuttings should not be removed from all shoots at the same time. Collecting cuttings is carried out regularly: in summer period- every day, in winter - in two weeks.

In winter, a mature shoot can have 6-7 internodes, so the cutting is removed with three pairs of leaves.

In spring and summer, shoots ripen faster, and cuttings can be removed with two internodes, a rounded thick stem, a widely bent leaf blade and a sultan formed. The mass of cuttings varies depending on the season and should be at least 4-5 g in winter, and 6-9 g in spring and summer. Sometimes cuttings reach a maximum weight of 12-15 g. Such cuttings are removed only from young plants - from the upper shoots of the second of the order, as well as with non-tinged, eaten planting or growing them with additional irradiation. The larger the mass of the cutting, the better quality material. Plants obtained from cuttings weighing more than 7 g develop faster and bloom two weeks earlier than from cuttings weighing 3 g (with simultaneous removal).

In spring and early summer, lateral buds develop on a mature shoot. It has been noticed that cuttings with such shoots already grow during rooting, and later give very productive plants that bloom 2-3 weeks earlier.

Cuttings are best removed in the morning when the plant has

good turgor. Usually they are broken out under the knot by hand. On a properly removed handle, under the knot, a part of the stem 0.5-1 cm long with smooth edges (without burrs) remains. It is not recommended to delete lower leaves, since it is noticed that such cuttings rot faster and take root worse. In addition, the removal of part of the assimilation apparatus delays the rooting process. Cuttings can be pulled out with a "leg" above the knot. In this case, the lower leaves during rooting do not come into contact with the substrate and do not rot.

Before the next collection of cuttings mother plants cloves (per day) are watered abundantly. This makes it easier to break the cuttings and prevents them from wilting. When the plant loses its turgor, the cuttings are poorly separated from the shoots, crumpled and take root worse in the future.

Cuttings taken from shoots ready to form an apical flower (induced) are considered overgrown. They are impractical to use for rooting. The yield of rooted cuttings in this case will be low, even under favorable conditions for cuttings. It is not possible to increase the percentage of their rooting even by soaking in heteroauxin. After a 4-week stay on the shelves, they look healthy, turgid, but remain without roots. Such cuttings differ from standard cuttings by elongated internodes: 4-5 cm instead of

2-3 cm (see Fig. 17, c). The length of cuttings taken from overgrown shoots with three internodes reaches 12-15 cm. In plants obtained from such cuttings, productivity decreases. The number of vegetative buds on the cuttings does not exceed three, and, as you know, they form the basis of the branching of the bush and ensure the harvest. When planting, one of them is buried in the ground, and only two buds remain to form a bush.

Carnation cuttings quickly lose water and, when planted in a wilted state, root poorly, since they are not able to absorb moisture from the substrate to a normal turgor. Therefore, a pause should not be allowed between the removal of cuttings and planting them for rooting, especially when treated with growth stimulants in a dry way. If, nevertheless, a slight wilting of the cuttings was allowed, they are installed vertically in plastic containers.
Into an aqueous solution of a growth stimulator for 4-12 hours and transfer to a cool, dark room.

In some cases, the cuttings are stored in special chambers for several months. Since the main demand for planting material happens in the first half of the year, summer cuttings it is advisable to accumulate and preserve until winter. Such high-quality cuttings root well in winter and give full-fledged planting material at the beginning of next year. In this case, dry cuttings are immediately packed into small plastic bags 25 pcs., put in cardboard boxes (50x40x20 cm, up to 25-30 bags). You can store cuttings without bags in cardboard boxes covered with plastic wrap, in vertical position up to 400 pcs. A label is placed in each box indicating the variety, number and date of removal of the cuttings.

First, the boxes are placed on racks in a room with a temperature of 6-8 ° C for two days, then they are transferred to permanent storage in chambers with a constant temperature of no higher than 1-3 ° C, humidity 70-78% and 5-6-fold air exchange per day. Even a short-term increase in temperature by several degrees is unacceptable, since this will form condensation, which leads to a flash fungal diseases and mass death of cuttings. Optimal term storage of cuttings in chambers is 3-4 months, so only well-ripened cuttings are preserved for a long time. Cuttings are not stored for more than four months, as this increases the likelihood of fungal diseases. Before rooting, they are brought into a warmer room (8 ° C) for two days.

For the prevention of diseases, cuttings are disinfected before rooting for 15 minutes in a suspension of one of the fungicides: topsin-M (0.2%), benomyl or its analogs (0.1-0.2%) or previcura

(0.15%) together with benomyl (0.05%).

To stimulate the processes of root formation, growth regulators are used, which cause an influx organic matter in the place of root formation, which leads to thickening and proliferation of tissues and the formation of roots. Growth regulators are stored in a well-sealed glass container, in a dark and dry place (when stored in the light and in a damp room, the preparations quickly lose their activity).

Root formation of cuttings is further enhanced when they are treated with a mixture of a growth stimulant with vitamin C (ascorbic acid) or B1 (thiamine). This contributes to the simultaneous and more rapid growth shoots of rooted cuttings. In industrial practice, the following methods are convenient for processing: immersing the lower part of the cuttings in water solution growth regulator, dipping in growth paste or powder, watering the substrate with a stimulant.

The cuttings are placed for 4 h in a 0.05% aqueous solution of heteroauxin (in winter) or in a 0.0015% solution of indolylbutyric acid (in summer). Processing is carried out in a darkened room at a temperature not higher than 20-23 ° C. Higher temperatures (28-30 ° C) can lead to poisoning of the cuttings. Green cuttings are immersed in the solution for 2-4 cm (no more than 7th of their length).

The stimulant powder mixture is made as follows. An initial concentrated solution is prepared in a volumetric flask at the rate of 1 mg per 1 ml of alcohol (50-70%). Then they take a sample of talcum powder the right amount solution (for example, to obtain a 0.5% powder - 10 g of talc and 5 ml of solution, respectively), everything is thoroughly stirred, adding alcohol or water, and then dried at a temperature of 50 ° C.

Before processing, the cuttings are slightly soaked in a 0.01% solution of potassium permanganate, the drops are shaken off and the bases are immersed in powder. The plants are planted carefully so that the powder does not crumble.

A mixture of the following components is used: 400 g of talc, 60 mg of a-naphthylacetic acid and 20 mg of thiamine.

A positive result is obtained by pre-planting cooling of the cuttings (3 ° C) for 7-10 days. In this case, the rooting period is shortened by a week. ,

The cuttings are rooted in greenhouses on well-equipped racks with subsoil heating, which ensures a soil temperature of 22-23 ° C.

Various substrates are used for rooting cuttings. The main requirements for them are: loose constitution (optimal air content is 15-50% of the total volume) and high moisture capacity. These requirements are met by perlite (grade 100 or 75) or a mixture of perlite and high-moor peat (2-1); for meristem
cuttings it is better to use clean sand. The rack is pre-washed with water, disinfected with a 0.5% solution of insecticides and fungicides. The substrate is poured onto the racks with a layer of 5-6 cm, moistened, mixed, slightly compacted and marked according to the 4X4 or 4x5 cm scheme (500-600 cuttings are planted per 1 ml). The cuttings are planted in perlite to a depth of 1.5-2 cm, slightly squeezed and immediately watered with water from a fine sieve. Rooting period of cuttings is 21-30 days.

The substrate on the shelves is heated hot water which is in metal pipes laid in the substrate layer. Hot water served from a boiler room or from an autonomous electric boiler. To control the temperature, PTA-3 thermostats are used, which, using an intermediate relay, control electromagnetic valves. The sensor operates at a voltage of 24 W direct current... When the substrate is heated with water, a recirculation system is used. Electrical heating can be used.

The optimal regime is created if the air temperature is 3-5 ° C lower than the substrate temperature. The substrate temperature at the base of the cuttings should be 19-20 ° C for 10 days after planting, then it should be lowered to 17-18 ° C to avoid pulling out internodes during the last stage of rooting. The air temperature is maintained at least 13 ° C in winter and no higher than 20 ° C in summer.

Air humidity in the leaf area for newly planted cuttings should be 70-80%. To maintain the required air humidity during the rooting of cuttings, easily lifting film shelters are arranged above the rack, which simplifies the care of the plants. You can also use fogging installations, watering paths between racks, occasional ventilation. In summer, the installation is turned on up to 2-3 times or more per hour, in winter -

2-3 times a day with an exposure of 8 seconds.

Fogging installations with deflector nozzles are controlled from the sheet surface moisture sensor "electronic sheet". When the sheet dries up, a signal is given to turn on, it opens solenoid valve, water enters the system and its finely dispersed spray begins through the nozzles. By settling on the leaves of cuttings, water ensures a decrease in leaf temperature by 3-5 ° C in comparison with the air temperature. During the operation of fogging installations, the air humidity is set at 70-80%, the substrate humidity is 70-75%. This regimen is especially necessary in the first 10-12 days.

With the appearance of roots (on the 10-16th day after planting), the air humidity is reduced to 60%, watering is reduced to once an hour with the same exposure, then water is watered once every two hours or less. If necessary, foliar feeding of cuttings is carried out with a 0.2% solution of calcium nitrate.

2-3 days before the release of cuttings, the moisture content of the substrate is reduced, bringing the perlite to such a state that it crumbles after compression, however, it is not allowed to dry out.

The output of high-quality cuttings is ensured by creating optimal conditions for their rooting. In this case, the light regime is of great importance: in the summer period, darkening is used, from September to April - additional irradiation: photoperiod 12 hours, specific power 180 W / ml. On the 10-12th day after planting, when callus is formed, the cuttings are illuminated. It is advisable to use a moving unit with a step of 12 and 8 hours.

Rooted cuttings ready for sampling have three well-formed internodes and a compact root system 2-7 cm long.

11 months reaches over 660 pcs. Rooting is about 90%.

Rooted cuttings of carnations are packed in bags of 20-25 pieces, which are placed in boxes (boxes) with a label indicating the variety, reproduction, number of plants, date of selection and brigade number. It is allowed to store rooted cuttings packed, but not closed on top, at a temperature of 1-3 ° C, a relative humidity of 70% and changing the air 5-6 times a day. From the day of digging to planting, cuttings are stored for no more than 2 weeks (GOST 25622-83. Cuttings of remontant carnation and Indian chrysanthemum).

Reproduction of the herb carnation. After a friendly flowering, this cushion carnation gives a good self-seeding. And it doesn't matter if it grows in a flower bed or there is a pebble covering around it. Seedlings can appear in seemingly completely unprepared and unsuitable conditions for germination - among stones, where there is no soil. And this quality is wonderful, because when a bush is multiplied by dividing, its parts do not take root so easily.

It is convenient to do this with the help of a small transfer shovel, which captures the root system along with the soil. At the same time, the roots are practically not damaged. After planting, the plants are well watered.

It is better to transfer self-seeding plants to a permanent place when they are still small, and the root has not grown too deep and has gone deep into the "chosen" place.

Propagation of carnation herb by cuttings to preserve the variety

For this, vegetative shoots with a length of about 10-12 cm are suitable, although longer ones can be used. From the cutting, you need to remove the leaves on the two lower nodes. Then, with a blade, cut a shallow longitudinal groove from the bottom of the cutting - up to the second internode. They are planted obliquely with a cut down in a light sandy substrate. For complete success, it is important that the planting mixture is previously decontaminated, for example, with a solution of potassium permanganate, or calcined. Perlite can also be used for rooting. After planting, moisten the substrate, cover the cuttings with foil and put in partial shade. If you root the cuttings in the house, then it is better to do this on the eastern windowsill, on the street - in a greenhouse, and it is better to hide them in the shade of the plants.

Very convenient to root in incised (1/3 from the top) plastic bottle with a capacity of 1.5-2 liters. Three or four cuttings fit there. But do not forget to first fill a third of the container with fine expanded clay or crushed polystyrene and only then pour the substrate. After planting, the incised top of the bottle is aligned with the bottom and sealed with tape. In the first days, the cork is opened as needed for ventilation, after a week and a half it can be opened completely. Pour gently so that the water runs down the edge of the bottle.

After about 15-20 days, the roots can be seen through the transparent walls. When the plant grows stronger and new leaves appear on them, they are planted in separate containers or planted in the garden, in the school.

Use a mixture for planting loose, moisture-permeable and sufficiently nutritious. Usually humus, peat and sand are mixed (1: 3: 1). You can also take a ready-made universal substrate with a neutral pH reaction by adding a little sand to it. If there is no mineral fertilizer in the purchased soil, it is advisable to include a complex fertilizer in the planting mixture according to the instructions, reducing the dose by half.

Separate plastic pots with a diameter of 9 cm are used for planting cuttings. Put the watered cuttings together on a warm lit windowsill and cover with spunbond. This creates some kind of greenhouse landing effect. Keep the soil moist.

By the resumed growth of the tops, you determine whether the cuttings have taken root. After that, gradually accustom them to open sun... At the same time, you can start feeding with a solution of mineral fertilizers.

Ready-made carnation seedlings - as a gift

Usually, seedlings from rooted cuttings or seeds are bought in mid-May. It is good if it is in separate pots, grown up and with buds. We do not recommend taking specimens with yellowed foliage or if there are spots on them and shoots, since this is most likely a disease, and only in best case- a sign of poor grooming.

At home, having transferred the plant into a large container with nutritious, moisture-absorbing and well-permeable soil, water it. To make it easier to adapt, you can spray the crown several times. The place needs to be sunny, although varieties with drooping shoots need protection from the midday sun. after the first flowering, they are usually pruned, and at the end of the season they bloom again.

Reproduction of cloves by feathery division and cuttings

Usually, one or two fans 10-15 cm long are cut off. Do this in the spring, when you cut the shoots on aged bushes in order to rejuvenate them at least for the current season. Cut off the shoots and purposefully for reproduction, at the end of May, when it is already possible to distinguish and exclude flower tops. You can also root the fans left over from pruning after flowering - some survive!

Reproduction of cloves by layering

From time to time, some of the bushes of garden carnations fall out, so it is advisable to update them annually. In a not too thickened flower bed, when there is no threat to damage neighboring plants, part of the bush is planted. If this is not possible, move aside several lashes from each bush and sprinkle them with earth. Over time, the layers take root, they can be separated and transplanted to a new place. For this method of reproduction of carnations, it is important to use just a few shoots. A sprinkled large bundle, as a rule, grows moldy and dies. Or in the spring (it is possible after flowering), young green shoots are torn off and planted, stacking several pieces together. At the same time, the soil is tightly squeezed around them and watered. Better to do this in rainy weather. Plant in partial shade, it is advisable to mulch the soil to retain moisture.

It is very convenient to plant cuttings in pots dug between the bushes, and you need to drop them in on light soil with depth, and on heavy soil - slightly to one side, turning the soil surface towards the light. In the first case, the watering moisture will collect in the hole and last longer, and in the second, on the contrary, it will drain. And then, when planting in a permanent place, you will not need to pay much attention to the plant - just transfer it and water it. And it does not matter that plants in rotated pots will not grow vertically relative to the pot, all this can be easily adjusted when planting in a permanent place. Likewise, in pots, you can root and layering by placing containers (or even better small bags with soil) under the shoots. They will have to be cared for before rooting.

Reproduction of Chinese carnation

If the climatic conditions do not allow leaving the plant in the garden, it is easy to keep it in the house during the winter. In the fall, pick out specimens that haven’t bloomed yet, transplant them into pots, and bring them into your home. At first, the plants may wilt a little, but with regular abundant watering, they easily recover. Another option is to separate young rosettes from an adult bush in July-August and root them. Such small plants are easier to maintain and take up much less space. And by the end of winter, without illumination, and even on the northern windowsill, lush bushes are formed, which can also be used as mother plants.

Cuttings are not cut, but broken off. They are planted immediately in separate cups and covered with bags. Ventilate approximately once a week. Soon, young light green leaves begin to grow, but leave the plants under the film for another one to two weeks.

For rooting, use a mixture of sand and garden soil (1: 2). When propagated by cuttings in February-March, young plants bloom in June-July.

The genus of carnation today has more than 300 species, and some of them are quite suitable for indoor cultivation. Good decision for pot cultivation, several compact hybrid species have become, and the total number of varieties today is several hundred. This modest and unpretentious flower has always attracted the attention of gardeners, it is no coincidence that its Latin name Dianthus can be translated as "divine".

Carnation came to Europe from Northern China, it also grows in Japan and the Primorsky Territory. Since the plant is distinguished by its unpretentiousness, several types of carnations received the most wide use in European countries. Various varieties can be very different from each other, so you can choose a flower to your liking.

The most popular varieties for potting are:

Chinese carnation. It is a very beautiful plant with a wonderful variety of petal shades. They can be red, pink, white, bicolor. The petals have a corrugated edge, which gives them a special charm. The stem is creeping, the plant is classified as annual.
... This species differs from others in that its buds are collected in thyroid inflorescences, the diameter of which can be up to 12 cm. The flowers also have a corrugated edge, they can be either double or simple. This species attracts flower growers with a variety of colors: the buds can be white, pink, lilac, they are often decorated with a border. One of the features of this species is its undemandingness to light.
Hybrid carnation is one of the most beautiful and favorite species of flower growers. This annual plant no more than 20 cm in height. During the entire flowering, it is completely covered with bright large buds.
Carnation grenadine is a type of garden carnation specially bred for cultivation in indoor conditions... It is distinguished by large double buds with a corrugated edge of the petals.

All these species are very often combined into one - indoor carnation, since they have approximately the same requirements for growing and take up little space.

All are characterized by a pleasant aroma and long flowering but, unfortunately, all these plants are only annuals.

In all types of indoor cloves, several characteristic features: they are light-loving plants and require long daylight hours. At the same time, it is important to observe the correct temperature regime: the carnation does not tolerate intense heat well, the ideal temperature for it is 13-15 degrees.

Lack of light or, on the contrary, too hot sunlight leads to a slowdown in growth, and the plant will bloom much worse.

Other mandatory rules for growing carnations on a windowsill:

The plant, the potted soil should never completely dry out. In this case, moisture should not stagnate in the soil, so you need to take care of the drainage layer. For watering, it is better to choose soft, settled water, it should not be cold. Cloves are very fond of evening spraying, especially after a hot day.
For cloves, it is recommended to select neutral soils. Ideal proportion: leafy soil, peat and turf soil in a ratio of 1: 1: 2. Cloves are afraid of microorganisms, so the soil must first be spilled with antiseptic solutions.
Top dressing is necessary for lush bloom, therefore, complex mineral fertilizers and spray the soil. The amount of fertilizer should not be excessive, 1 spraying of the soil every 10 days is enough. Fertilizers begin to be applied to the soil after the first month from the moment of transplantation.

To make the bush lush, young shoots need to be pinched, forming a crown.

The plant does not suffer from this procedure, as it quickly produces lateral shoots. In general, the rules. If you do not forget to water it and provide it with enough light, you can be sure that it will bloom soon and will delight the owner for a very long time with magnificent buds with a delicate pleasant aroma.

At home, the easiest way to propagate a carnation is to propagate it by seed, and if you experiment with crossing several varieties, you can achieve interesting color combinations buds. Sowing is carried out in early spring, in March-April, and carnation seeds are usually very germinating. Sowing material should not be stored for a long time: the seeds obtained from last year's plant sprout best.

Growing tricks:

It is not necessary to pre-soak the seeds; it is enough to place them in a container with soil to a depth of 2-3 mm and moisten them abundantly with water.
The containers must be placed in a bright place, the first shoots may appear after a week.
When the seedlings germinate, and they have at least 5 true leaves, you can start forming the future bush. To do this, the tip is pinched, the same will need to be done with the side shoots.
Correct pinching will help shape beautiful crown and achieve abundant flowering.

The carnation begins to bloom approximately 3-4 months after planting. So the bushes planted in spring will delight you with flowering all summer. Seeds can also be planted before winter, but in this case, the carnation will bloom only next year.

For biennials and perennial species other methods of reproduction are also used: this is the transplanting of cuttings.

In any case, it is important not to deepen too deeply. young plant into the soil. Plantings need to be watered in a timely manner, sand is often added to the soil so that moisture does not stagnate and does not lead to root rot.

However, there are still a few common problems to be aware of before landing. Although the plant is not too demanding on conditions, it is afraid of pests.

Carnation pests:

A spider mite affects the carnation - in this case, the reverse side of the leaves will be covered with a white bloom, and the plant will bloom much worse.
Aphids, powdery mildew and other common pests also pose a threat.

Carnation must be protected from threats: if any plant on the windowsill is affected, it is better to immediately remove the carnation pot to another place. If signs of disease appear, the leaves are washed with soapy water. In this case, you need to ensure that the soap does not get on the roots - this can only damage the plant. The foam is left on the leaves for several hours (but not overnight), and then washed off.

You can also use folk remedies: With spider mite you can successfully fight with the infusion of tansy and yarrow.

If these measures do not work, it is better to purchase special fungicides in a phyto-pharmacy. One of the effective remedies is Actellik - this drug kills most pests, but it is toxic, so it is used only in extreme cases. Other effective remedy- Fitoverm, it is safer, but you still need to carefully follow the instructions.

Often, cloves get sick if poor quality soil is used. Bought in a store, and even more so recruited in the garden, the earth must be shed with a weak solution of potassium permanganate in order to kill microorganisms.

Since this plant has long been grown indoors, you can use a few tricks that gardeners have worked out:

When growing two-year-olds and perennial varieties the plant needs to be updated every time from the petiole. The old carnation blooms much worse, and the petiole after transplantation will again give large buds.
If the cuttings were planted in late summer, flowering can be achieved even in winter time... To do this, you need to organize a long daylight hours: when the sun goes down, the plant is additionally illuminated with a special lamp.
When the bud begins to fade, it is advisable to immediately remove it from the bush. the same should be done with lateral flowers if there are too many of them. and the plant may not have enough strength for full flowering.
In the summer, it is advisable to ventilate the room with a carnation more often. She needs fresh air and does not like too high a temperature.

At proper care A indoor carnation can be turned into a great decoration.

She will find a place on the balcony or on the loggia, it can be easily placed on the windowsill, since the bushes do not take up extra space. You can plant several plants with in different colors buds in one container by organizing a mini-flower bed on the windowsill.

A modest and at the same time very beautiful flower will cheer up and delight all family members for a very long time. Indoor carnation is the easiest way to diversify your home interior.

More information can be found in the video.

In nature, carnations are found in light, dry places - meadows, mountain and ravine slopes, talus. Therefore, when planting them on flower beds, you have to create the same conditions. Carnations are most often used in light-colored mixborders, along the edge of flower beds and on alpine coaster... These plants absolutely do not tolerate stagnant water and lack of light, but they tolerate drought well. Forming dense sods, they suffer only from rhizome weeds, such as wheatgrass, sow thistle, dandelions, which are difficult to remove from carnation bushes. Therefore, before planting, you need to very carefully clean the soil from extraneous roots and rhizomes. Please also note that carnations are sensitive to smoke and gases, so they should not be located near the roadway and garages. Sand is imperative, because with a deficiency of silicon in carnations, the stems break during flowering.

Carnations reproduce both by seed and vegetatively. In the latter case, 2 methods are possible - cuttings and layering. Repairing greenhouse carnations have recently multiplied almost exclusively by tissue culture, which gives planting material free of viruses.

Reproduction

Carnation needs to be propagated regularly and quite often, because many species are young, i.e. live 3-4 years, but really perennials lose their decorative effect with age, as their bushes sprawl, thin out and "go bald" at the base. Oddly enough at first glance, very few carnations reproduce by dividing the bush. Most species have a single taproot, from which shoots diverge. Such bushes, no matter how lush they are, cannot be divided. Sometimes some of the shoots take root on their own, giving new plants, but the bulk of carnations, especially varietal ones, need special vegetative propagation.

By cuttings all carnations, without exception, multiply, but in annual species this does not make sense. For grafting, use calcined sand or perlite. This is important because cloves can easily develop fungal infections. It is better to propagate by cuttings at the end of May - beginning of June, when the vegetative shoots are already well distinguishable from the peduncles. For rooting, vegetative shoots 3-9 cm long are used, depending on the type of carnation, but not less than 3-4 pairs of leaves. Longer cuttings can also be taken, especially from tall species. The cut is made just below the knot. The leaves from the two lower nodes must be removed. Along the entire length of the lower internode with a very sharp knife or scalpel, longitudinal cuts are made for 1/3 of the stem thickness. The cut cuttings are placed in a substrate and provide them with sufficient air humidity by covering them with a film or jar. Cutting large quantities of material can be carried out in a cold greenhouse. It is also useful to use a fogging installation, but without heating the soil. Roots are formed in 2-3 weeks.

Reproduction layering possibly in carnations with long vegetative shoots. To do this, a longitudinal incision is made on the internode on the underside to the depth of the thickness of the stem, then this part of the shoot is pinned to the ground with a cut down, covered with earth and regularly moistened the soil. After the formation of roots, new shoots are formed from the internodes located above the dusting site. The new plant can be separated from the mother liquor and transplanted. Layers can also be obtained by covering the base of the bush with moist earth, the signs of the appearance of roots are the same as those of the shoots-layers.

By dividing the bush very few species breed, forming sods of easily rooting shoots, for example, bearded carnation, it is also Turkish, and grass. Division is best done in early spring, then young plants bloom in the first season.

Seeds species grown as annuals and biennials breed more often. Carnations are often marketed as cultivars, meaning that plants grown from seed are known to have different colors.

Carnations are sown in pots with sandy soil in April-May. Optimum temperature soils for germination + 16 + 20 o C. Seedlings are weak, therefore pots are required in order not to lose seedlings. When the seedlings have 3-4 pairs of leaves, they are carefully transplanted into new pots or a school. They are transplanted to a permanent place next spring.

Sowing cloves in a permanent place is inconvenient. They grow slowly and either get lost or become clogged with weeds when sowing sparsely, or most of them will die from crowding when sowing densely. V open ground carnations can be sown either in early spring or before winter. At spring sowing most of the species emerge for more than two weeks, with a little winter - 1-2 weeks after the snow melts. In the first year, perennials form rosettes, winter in this form and bloom in the second year.

Annual carnations of the Shabo group and Chinese carnations, grown as annuals, are sown in January-February in boxes at a temperature of + 12 + 15 ° C in a mixture of leafy, soddy clay soil and sand in a ratio of 1: 2: 1. When real leaves appear, they dive into the same mixture with the addition of humus. Plants are kept at a temperature of + 8 + 12 ° C so that they do not stretch, placing them in the brightest places, or additionally illuminate them. They are planted in the ground in May.

Diseases and pests

Carnations growing outdoors in good conditions, diseases are rare. Greenhouse carnations are prone to a huge number of diseases. On the street, the development of diseases is promoted by dampness, thickening of plantings and an excess of nitrogen with a lack of potassium, therefore, carnations cannot be fed clean nitrogen fertilizers and manure, especially fresh. It is better to use complex mixtures that always contain potassium. Bacterial diseases are transmitted by pests or enter the plant when damaged. Usually this wet rot, which also affect gladioli, hyacinths, irises. Common fungal diseases are also found in carnations and tulips. Because of common diseases and some pests, it is better not to plant carnations next to them. Viral diseases of carnations cannot be cured, and their pathogens remain in the soil for a very long time, so the place of planting carnations should be changed at least once every 5 years.

Stained spots with a velvety bloom - on the leaves and stems - are the result of fungal diseases. They are ubiquitous and often cause plant death. They are especially harmful in humid warm weather. Fungal infections are treated with copper preparations and other fungicides. Fusarium is especially dangerous, since in this case the fungus develops inside the plant and does not die during processing. Decays root system and the stem base, leaves and stems turn yellow and curl. Sick plants must be removed and destroyed, the soil should be properly watered with fungicides twice, with an interval of a month.