Cultivation of zonal pelargonium: care and reproduction. Types and photos of pelargonium

Pelargonium is known to many as geranium, this is a more familiar name for this plant. Pelargonium belongs to the Geraniev family. It fits perfectly into any conditions and becomes a real decoration in your interior.

The plant was introduced in the 17th century from the Cape Colony. And only aristocrats had the right to grow geraniums, but over time, the plant became available to many interested flower growers.

Pelargonium varieties photo and names

Her homeland is Southwest Africa. This species is a shrub about 9cm high. The foliage is more rounded with a dissection, the surface of the leaf is either smooth or slightly pubescent. The peduncle contains 2-3 flowers. The inflorescence is about 3.5 cm in diameter, whitish or with scarlet veins. Flowering begins in the spring.

V natural conditions grows in the southern parts of the Cape. The bush is abundantly branched and reaches a height of up to one meter. The foliage is lobed with pubescence both outside and inside. The flowers have a pronounced pleasant smell. The inflorescences are collected in umbrellas with a raspberry and light pink tint. Flowering takes place in summer period.

It is a bush with a compact small trunk. The bush reaches a height of about 22 cm, the shoots are short, the foliage is more rounded in the shape of a heart. The leaf is slightly serrated in width with slight pubescence. Umbrella-shaped flowers up to 10 pcs. on a peduncle with a pleasant scent. The shade of the flower is from light to pink. Flowering occurs in summer.

In nature, it is more common in the South-East of the Cape. Greened bushes in height reaching 1.5 meters. Branches filled with pubescence. The foliage is more rounded or lobed.

The surface of the leaf is either smooth, or with a slight pubescence along the surface with a chocolate-colored strip. The flowers in the umbrella are abundant. The shade of the flowers is scarlet. Flowering lasts from spring to autumn.

Its inflorescences are similar to the unblown buds of tulips with 7-9 petals. This subgroup is distinguished by flowering knocked down in a bouquet. This group was withdrawn in 1966 in Boston.

Or ampelous ... This type of plant with drooping branches is up to one meter long. They are in demand for decorating balconies or in the summer for planting on a site as a ground cover.

Foliage in ampelous species can be different in shape. The color of the flowers ranges from white to burgundy or black. The foliage surface is smooth and ivy-like, rough and unpleasant to the touch.

An interesting view with inflorescences similar to small bouquets of roses with unblown buds.

Currently, many varieties of rosebud pelargonium have been bred. This type of pelargonium is distinguished by double inflorescences.

Represents a neat bush. Inflorescences are similar to rosaceous pelargonium. The flowers of the zoned pelargonium have a strong resemblance to roses. The height of the bush is standard up to 50 cm in height. The foliage has a rich green tint... Inflorescences full of terry varieties... The shade of the flower is a delicate crimson color.

It has double inflorescences with a delicate pink tint of flowers. Umbrellas of the ripple of flowers resemble a soft ball. This type of pelargonium must be pruned to form a beautiful bush shape.

This species is represented by strong bushes covered with many leaves and double flowers scarlet hue. Dark venation appears on the leaf surface.

It is the most popular variety. On strong shoots, up to 20 flowers are formed on one umbrella. The diameter of the flower can reach up to 6 cm. The shade of the viva rosita flower has a bright crimson hue.

Represents small compact bush... Leaves are light in color. The bush does not need shaping. The flowers are large, the shade of the flower is unusual with a transition of tone to a light orange color. Inflorescences are formed in the form of umbrellas.

This is a tulip-like plant with bright, pale pink inflorescences with a white tint. The flower petals have a corrugation along the edge. The flowers resemble unblown tulip buds.

The plant, which is resistant to temperature changes, does not require additional lighting. Flowering begins in late winter and lasts the entire season. Does not require pruning.

Pelargonium home care

Taking care of the plant won't make you waste a lot of time. Fulfilling all the prescriptions, healthy blooming pelargonium will delight you all the time.

The flower prefers lighting in sufficient quantity. Then he doesn't lose decorative view... It is better to shade from direct sunlight, and in winter period with a lack of lighting, it is better to add additional sources Sveta.

The temperature regime for pelargonium should correspond to 20 -25 degrees in summer and about 15 degrees in winter.

Watering pelargonium

Watering the plant prefers moderate constant in the summer, it is necessary to water as soon as the topsoil dries. V winter time watering should be reduced only if the room temperature has dropped.

Pelargonium does not like moisture stagnation, as this adversely affects the root system. When caring for a plant, it is better not to water it again than to water it. Pelargonium has the property of a moisture storage system, so it can do without water for a long time.

It is not necessary to spray the plant as it damages the flowers. Air humidity does not really matter, the main thing is constant ventilation of the premises.

Fertilizers for pelargonium

It is necessary to feed the plants throughout the growing season from spring to autumn. It is preferable to use fertilizers in liquid form and in slightly moist soil.

In order for the plant to delight you with abundant landscaping, it is necessary to select fertilizers with the addition of nitrogen.

Magnesium sulfate for pelargonium

This fertilizer is used when it is necessary to obtain constant abundant flowering.

Magnesium with sulfur helps to form a large number of buds. The drug is used 15 g per 5 liters of water. Only on the condition that the water is at room temperature.

Also, the plant needs potassium and phosphorus for full development, feed according to the instructions on the package. In winter, feeding should be excluded.

Pelargonium transplant

Pelargonium is transplanted before the beginning of the growing season, in the spring. Young individuals require transplanting annually, adults less often. The transplant capacity must be selected a few centimeters more. If the container is large, the plant will refuse to bloom.

Transplanting pelargonium in the fall is not desirable, but if it is necessary, for some reason, then it can be done.

Soil for pelargonium

The land can be purchased ready-made in the store or prepared by yourself. To do this, a good drainage layer must be laid on the bottom.

And it is also necessary to mix sheet soil, sod soil, sand and humus all in equal proportions.

Pelargonium pruning

Garden pelargonium must be cut off with the onset of cold weather, so that the plant can tolerate winter frosts normally. It is necessary to cut off half of its total height. Or transplant pelargonium for the winter in a pot.

Pruning pelargonium in the fall is necessary after it has faded.

Indoor pelargoniums are pruned to form a crown and lush flowering. This pruning is done at the end of winter, before the start of the growing season. After pruning, houseplants will lay many new blooms to flower.

Pruning must be done with a good sharp blade and cut off the shoot obliquely giving the plant the desired shape.

Pelargonium propagation by cuttings

To do this, cut a stalk about 7 cm long, dry it a little for 24 hours and plant it in the ground. There is no need to cover. Care consists in the need for watering from time to time.

After about 30 days, the plant takes root. Cuttings can be rooted in water, and after the roots appear, planted in the ground. This method is used in late winter and mid-summer.

Pelargonium from seeds at home

The seeds are planted in a light soil of peat and sand, a little of it, moistened before sowing. Seeds are spread on the surface and a little sprinkled with soil. Cover with glass or foil, creating greenhouse conditions.

Opening periodically for airing and watering. The temperature for seeds should be kept within 23-25 degrees. A few weeks after the emergence of seedlings, the plants dive and lower the temperature to 20 degrees and are kept in such conditions for about two months. And then they are planted in the required place. Seeds should be sown at the end of winter.

Diseases and pests

Pelargonium leaves turn yellow. There may be a number of reasons for this, the wrong soil, improper watering, a small capacity, or a lack of fertilizer.

In pelargonium, the leaves turn yellow and dry, this is due to a lack of moisture in the soil. It is necessary to make watering more regular.

Pelargonium does not bloom at home, the most common reason is not maintaining the dormant state of the plant. That is, in winter, it is necessary to lower the temperature of the plant to 15-18 degrees, and also to prune in a timely manner. Then the plant will lay a large number of buds.

Pelargonium is ornamental plant , which is usually grown as indoor. However, this crop from the Geranium family can also be grown outdoors. Pelargonium is also called geranium.

Due to its decorative qualities and healing properties, the plant fell in love not only with flower growers, but also with landscape designers. It comes from South Africa.

The flower got its name "zonal" because that there is a small ring or a speck of a different color on the leaf, which is called a "zone". With a lack of sunlight, the "zone" disappears, and then reappears.

Pelargonium zonal is a straight shrub that is covered with thick leaves and small flowers. Flowers are collected in racemose inflorescences. The surface of the leaves is covered with fluff, there is a slight odor.

The plant appeared in culture at the beginning of the 18th century. Then these were tall flowers. Low-growing varieties of this culture were bred by the raft.

Zonal pelargonium has several varietal varieties:

Rosaceae (Terry).
Tulip-shaped.
Cloves.
Star-shaped.
Cactus.
"Deacons".

Pink (double) grade

The flowers of pink-colored (rose-shaped) pelargonium are visually similar to roses. They are densely doubled. These are drought-resistant, light-loving and heat-loving plants.

They are often used in landscape design... There are many varieties of pink-flowered pelargoniums.

Tulip

Tulip-shaped pelargoniums are distinguished by dense and abundant flowering. The flowers look like very small tulips. The variety was obtained in the second half of the 20th century.

Clove

Clove pelargoniums are similar to carnation flowers. Their petals are carved, and the flowers themselves are large in size.

Star-shaped

This variety of zoned geraniums has both leaves and flowers that are long, sharp in shape. The flowers are like stars. These plants first appeared in the second half of the 20th century.

Cactus

The flower petals of the cactus pelargonium are distinguished by a long and elongated shape, as well as twisting.

They often look slightly shaggy. There are similarities with the flowers of cactus dahlias.

View "Deacons"

"Deacons" is a very beautiful view zonal pelargonium... The flowers are red, orange and pink.

The bushes of such geraniums are small in size. Double flowers are collected in dense and very large inflorescences.

Pelargonium "Deacon"

How to care for zonal pelargonium?

The plant is unpretentious in care... Even a novice florist can grow this geranium. But in order for the plant to please with its colorful and abundant flowering, it will take a little effort.

Temperature and lighting

The culture is light-loving, therefore put a pot with it, preferably on the south window.

However, it is necessary to avoid direct sunlight on the flower, as this is fraught with the appearance of impartial burns. Therefore, in bright sun, the plant needs to be slightly shaded.

Also pelargonium is a thermophilic culture... She does not tolerate a temperature drop of up to 10 degrees.

The plant is resistant to heat... However, the combination of high temperatures and too dry air can dry out. Therefore, dry air can be compensated for by abundant irrigation.

In frosty periods, the flower must be moved away from the glass. to keep it warm. Reddened leaves can warn of freezing. You can not leave the flower to winter on the loggia, it may die.

Humidity and watering

Despite the drought resistance of the plant, the soil should not be allowed to dry out... This leads to the fact that the flowering becomes less abundant. Watering is required when the soil is completely dry.

If the apartment is hot (from the summer sun or from heating appliances and radiators), then watering is required daily or once every two days. When it's cloudy outside and it's cool in the apartment, you need to water it no more than once every three days.

In this way, it is necessary to water geraniums more often in summer than in winter, since the irrigation regime directly depends on the temperature regime.

Overflows are detrimental to the plant. Excessive moisture will lead to rotting of the root system.

The air in the room must be sufficiently humid... At the same time, it is not recommended to spray the plant to increase the moisture content, since the ingress of water droplets on the leaves and stem is dangerous for it.

To increase the humidity, you can put the pot in a tray of water or put a jar of water next to it.

Soil and fertilizing

Zonal pelargonium is not demanding on the ground... It is important to provide a good drainage layer at the bottom of the container.

This is necessary so that water does not stagnate in the ground, since stagnant water leads to rotting of the root system.

For indoor pelargonium, a neutral or slightly alkaline soil is ideal. It can be purchased ready-made in the store, or you can cook it yourself.

So, experienced florists prefer to do the soil themselves... For cooking, you will need (these components must be taken in a ratio of 2: 2: 2: 1):

humus earth;
sod land;
leafy land;
sand.

There are also other options for preparing the substrate (it is recommended to take these components in equal parts), for example:

compost soil;
peat land;
humus earth;
sand.

What kind of pot is needed for the "rose"?

It's better if the roots are a little cramped.... This will contribute to more abundant flowering.

Much better use not plastic, but clay pots because the roots breathe better in them.

Geranium propagation

Pelargonium zonal propagated in two ways: cuttings and seeds.

In order to propagate a flower using cuttings, it is necessary to cut off the tops of the shoots, which have at least three leaves.

This must be done from February to April. It is also possible in the middle of summer. It is advisable to dry the cuttings for several hours.

You can root a stalk:

in water;
in peat tablets;
in the substrate (a mixture of peat and sand with large granules).

Cuttings must be protected from excessive moisture, and it is also important to provide good and long-term illumination. If there is not enough sunlight for the flower, then lamps can be used.

After the cuttings are rooted, you can begin to make top dressing, which are intended for seedlings.

When several leaves appear, the seedlings can be transplanted. in other containers with fresh substrate.

Fresh substrate should be more nutritious in composition. In addition to peat and sand, a little humus should be added to the soil.

Sowing seeds is required from February to March. When the seedlings sprout, they will have enough sunlight.

To make seeds germinate faster, they can be scarified. Although they usually sell scarified seeds.

You need to sow seeds to a depth of no more than 5 cm... The boxes are covered with glass and kept at a temperature of about 20 degrees. The substrate must be periodically moistened and ventilated.

It will take about two weeks for the seeds to germinate. When at least two leaves appear on the seedlings, they need to be dived.

Care for seedlings in the future should be the same as for geraniums, which are propagated by cuttings.

Sowing pelargonium, picking it and replanting:

Diseases and pests

Like many other crops, zonal pelargonium can be susceptible to various diseases. Pelargonium is also sometimes affected by pests.

The most common pests:

whitefly(to cure a flower, you can simply wash it with soap and cover it with a bag for a while. If the situation is running, then the flower needs to be treated with "Aktara");
aphid(treatment is carried out with insecticides);
spider mites.

One of the most common diseases is black leg. In the case of this disease, the plant is almost impossible to save.

Causes: excessive soil moisture, low air temperature and an excessively large pot.

The development of fungal infections and mold is also likely. Yellowing of the leaves, the formation of gray plaque and brown spots on them - signs of a fungal infection... The plant must be immediately treated with a fungicide solution.

Rust may appear as a brown coating or white rings on the leaves.

If you follow all the rules for caring for pelargonium, then diseases are not terrible. However, at the first signs of the disease, it is necessary to take action in time.

Zonal geranium is very popular all over the world., including in Russia. This is due to the spectacular decorative properties of the flower, as well as ease of maintenance.

There are several varieties of zonal pelargoniums. Among them are simple, semi-double and double types.

In the cultivation of pelargonium, a clear annual cycle, which depends on temperature and illumination. Usually the flowering time in our climate begins in the spring and can last for some varieties until late autumn, as long as there is enough light and warmth.

Lighting

When growing pelargonium, it must be remembered that these are light-loving plants. Planted in open ground or taken out into the open air for the summer, they perfectly tolerate direct sun. The exception is royal pelargoniums, which are more picky about the effects of wind and rain, so it is preferable to grow them on terraces, balconies and window sills, in sheltered places. If pelargonium is in closed room(in the greenhouse, on the window), where light enters through the glass, the plant may overheat, especially in conditions of poor ventilation. Then you need protection from the scorching summer midday sun. Will tolerate pelargonium and slight shading, but with a lack of light, they will begin to turn yellow and die off lower leaves, the stem will be exposed, the plant will not bloom.

It is important to regularly, once every few days, turn the plant at a small angle relative to the light source, this is necessary for uniform crown growth.

Temperature regime

In summer, pelargonium prefers moderate heat, within + 17 + 23 o C. Landing in open ground should be done only when the danger of recurrent frosts has passed. At a stable temperature of +12 ° C and below, pelargonium ceases to bloom, and too high a temperature, especially in a closed room, also negatively affects flowering. The fact that the plant is cold can be signaled by reddened leaves.

In the fall, the temperature of the content and the abundance of watering are gradually reduced - the growth should not be active so that the pelargonium does not stretch and deplete under low light conditions.

Winter care

Optimal wintering conditions can be created on a glazed and frost-free, well-lit loggia or in a greenhouse. It is necessary to maintain the minimum temperature at night not lower than +6 о С, in the daytime - about + 12 + 15 о С. In case of overheating on sunny days, open the greenhouse doors for ventilation. Angels, bicolor and tricolor varieties are best kept at higher temperatures, placing them in warmer places in the greenhouse or loggia.

Good air circulation around the plants is essential, they should not be placed too closely, if necessary, thick roots should be thinned out a little. This will help to avoid the occurrence of fungal diseases. Watering this time is rather scarce, experienced flower growers spend it from pallets, clearly measuring the amount of water and determining the time of the next watering by the weight of the pots, while the top of the soil is always left dry.

There are also other wintering methods... One is to keep the plants as rooted cuttings and discard the mother plant. The method is used when summer cultivation pelargonium outdoors.

The second method is also used for outdoor cultivation: on the eve of frost, the plant is dug up, excess soil is shaken off from the roots, the plant is cut tightly and wrapped in paper, then hung in a cool basement. The room must be well ventilated and high humidity air to keep the plant from drying out. In the spring it is planted in a pot, with the onset of heat, it is planted in open ground. You can combine the first and second methods: first take the cuttings, and then send the mother plant to the basement for the winter.

Wintering falls on the very dark time per year and lasts approximately 2.5-3 months (from November to February). Already in late January - early February, with an increase in daylight hours, pelargoniums gradually begin to wake up.

Watering

When watering pelargonium, it is important to remember that these are rather drought-resistant plants, at the same time, they are easily susceptible to fungal diseases. Therefore, it is better to underfill the plant a little than to water it too much. In summer, water as the top layer dries, provided that the plant is in a warm and sunny place. In winter, in cool conditions, watering should be limited, but not brought to complete drying of the soil.

Signs of over-watering will be lethargic drooping leaves, often with signs of gray rot; in a severe case, stem rot will begin, which almost always leads the plant to death. Another symptom of excess moisture is the appearance of "sores" on the underside of the leaves. When the earthen coma is dried out, the plant stops blooming, the leaves turn yellow, and their edges dry out.

Air humidity is not important for pelargonium, these plants do not require spraying. Excessive dampness and stagnant air can cause fungal diseases.

Top dressing

It is advisable to introduce top dressing with each watering, accordingly reducing the dosage. So, if watering is done every day, then we divide the weekly fertilizer rate by 7-10 and give this dose at each watering. If the lump has time to dry out between waterings, then you must first moisten it with clean water. During the winter rest, feeding is canceled if the temperature is kept low and the plants are completely resting. When there is even a small growth, fertilizers can be added in ¼ dosage. Soon after the cuttings have taken root, a fertilizer with a high nitrogen content is used. For feeding young plants that are not yet allowed to bloom, a complex universal fertilizer is used. Before the onset of the flowering period, approximately 2.5-3 months (in April), they begin to use fertilizer with a higher potassium content. If there are signs of chlorosis, it should be treated with magnesium sulfate and iron chelate (or just a solution of microelements in a chelated form).

Landing

Priming Pelargonium prefers fertile and well-drained. It consists of sod land, humus, peat and sand in approximately equal proportions.

Life span a separate pelargonium bush is usually 2-5 years old, after which the plant loses its decorative effect and it is better to take care of the renewal in time by rooting cuttings. It will take about a year or a little more to grow an ornamental flowering plant from a cuttings. Cuttings rooted in early spring can bloom this summer, but it is advisable to give preference to the formation beautiful bush for abundant flowering next year.

Cuttings can be taken at any time, from early spring to autumn. But here it is necessary to take into account the time of the onset of flowering of the plant, which for different varieties is 16 to 20 weeks after the last pinching or pruning (flowering occurs on young shoots that have reached this age). If you have a single copy of this variety, then you will have to wait until the end of flowering to cut the cuttings. If there are several copies, then it is better to take cuttings earlier, starting from February-March, then from young plant there will be more time to develop for lush flowering next year, until then it is necessary to remove all emerging buds. It is not recommended to take cuttings earlier than the end of January, with a short daylight hours. By this time, the plants are just beginning to wake up from the cool wintering. If you take cuttings from dormant plants, then the level of growth hormones in them is low and it will take more time for rooting. For such pelargoniums as angels, royal and fragrant, it is advisable to take cuttings in late winter or early spring (later, with an increase in the level of illumination, the laying of flower buds will already begin closer to the tops of the shoots). For most varieties of zonal pelargoniums, this period is not so important, since their flower buds are laid along the entire length of the shoot and cuttings can be taken at any time of the growing season.

Cuttings must be cut only from healthy and powerful plants - the stronger and more stocky the cutting, the better it will develop in the future. For cuttings, take the apical parts of the shoots about 5-7 cm long, from miniature and dwarf varieties- about 2.5-3 cm. The lower leaves and stipules should be carefully removed, under the lower node, make an oblique cut with a slight slope. Dry the lower cut of the cutting in the air; depending on the conditions, this may take from several hours to several minutes. You can use drugs that stimulate root formation, but pelargonium gives roots well without their use.

It takes 2 to 4 weeks to root, depending on conditions and variety. The roots are formed on the lower cut of the cutting. A mixture of sterile peat substrate and perlite in approximately equal proportions is used as a soil for rooting. It is important that no water stagnates in the ground. Sterilizing the soil prior to use reduces the likelihood of cuttings rotting. Small pots (6 cm in diameter) or transparent cups (100-200 ml) are filled with an earth mixture and kept on a tray with water until the upper part of the substrate is wetted. After that, the soil is allowed to dry for about a day.

Another way of rooting is also popular. They take two pots, insert a second, narrower pot into a wider one, fill the space between them with soil, and plant prepared cuttings here. They are immersed in the ground by about 1-3 cm (depending on the variety) and pressed lightly.

The next watering is carried out sparsely and through the pallet when the soil dries up. It is advisable, after planting the cuttings, to introduce a systemic fungicide into the soil during the second watering. A greenhouse for rooting pelargonium cuttings is not required. For the first 2-3 days, the leaves may wither (do not put the cuttings in sunlight!), Later they restore turgor.

The optimum temperature for rooting pelargonium cuttings is about + 20 + 22 o C.

After rooting, the first pinch the cutting is carried out when it forms 8-10 leaves. The apical growth point is removed with a sharp sterile knife. This stimulates the growth of lateral shoots from the axils of the remaining leaves. If shoots only begin to grow from 1-2 upper buds, then it is advisable to remove them or pinch them as soon as they give 3 leaves. The next pinching is carried out as the lateral shoots grow, when they form 8-10 leaves. This will ensure lush branching, and subsequently abundant flowering. It is optimal to form a crown in the form of 2/3 of a ball. The last pinching of the plant is carried out no later than 16-20 weeks (depending on the variety) before the expected flowering. Since the flowering is also influenced by external factors (light), it can be expected to start in May or June, so the last pinching is carried out no later than February. As it grows, diseased or weak shoots are removed, too rapidly growing are shortened, trying to maintain the uniformity of the roots. Also, cut out all leaves that do not match the grade in size or color.

As a young plant grows, it several times per season transplanted(neat transfer) into a slightly larger pot, not trying to give a large volume at once. Transshipment is carried out only when the roots are tightly entwined with a lump. For a one-year-old plant, the maximum pot size should not exceed: for miniature - 9 cm, dwarf varieties and angels - 11 cm, for other varieties - no more than 15 cm in diameter. The last transplantation of cuttings rooted in this season is carried out closer to the winter rest or after its end at the beginning of the next season.

Pruning an old plant after flowering, taking cuttings

After the end of the flowering of the mother plant, the apical cuttings are cut from it for rooting. Pelargoniums are very susceptible to fungal diseases, so it is advisable to cut into mother plant above the node and be sure to treat the cut with a fungicide, sprinkle with charcoal or sulfur, these measures will reduce the likelihood of stem rot. It is optimal to carry out cuttings in a warm season, this also reduces the risk of disease. It is better not to remove old leaves that remain on the plant at this time, as lateral shoots will soon begin to grow. As young shoots grow, old leaves are removed. As soon as young shoots grow 8-10 leaves, they are pinched.

For even crown and stimulation good flowering old specimens immediately after the winter rest spend pruning, remove frail and diseased shoots, shorten long ones, leaving 2 to 5 buds on each shoot. It is undesirable to carry out pruning in the fall, since at home, without strict adherence to the cool wintering conditions, weak lateral shoots are formed, which will have to be removed.

Reproduction

Cuttings... Pelargonium reproduces well with cuttings - this is the main method of propagation of varietal plants, only it completely (excluding cases of the appearance of somatic mutations - spots) guarantees the preservation of all varietal traits in the plant. Read about grafting pelargonium above.

Seed reproduction... Many varieties are hybrid in nature, and even though they can set seeds, plants from such seeds may not necessarily retain the varietal qualities of the original plants. Species pelargoniums and a small number of varieties are successfully grown from seeds.

Basically on sale you can find seeds of F1 hybrids (first generation) and F2 hybrids (second generation), they are produced by large seed companies by crossing two different varieties... Plants grown from such seeds are not very interesting to collectors, but are more suitable for mass landscaping - they are not distinguished by a wealth of colors, but they have increased resistance.

The optimal time for sowing seeds is the end of January - February. With an increase in daylight hours, it will be possible to grow strong seedlings, and the seedlings are likely to bloom this summer. You can sow earlier, but in winter you will definitely need additional lighting so that the seedlings do not stretch out.

For germination of seeds, use poor sterile soil. Seeds are sown on the surface, sprinkled with a thin layer (literally 2-3 mm) of the soil mixture, spilled and covered with nothing. The optimum temperature for germination is + 20 + 24 o C. You can sow the seeds one at a time in individual small cups, then picking is not required. Seedlings appear in 2-3 weeks.

Diseases and pests

Great damage to Pelargonium deals gray rot... It appears as a gray bloom on the leaves and other parts of the plant. Its occurrence is provoked by coolness, dampness, waterlogging, poor air ventilation. Especially often, the disease occurs during winter holidays, which is why it is so important to provide plants with good ventilation, not to put them close to each other, to remove diseased and unnecessary leaves in time.
Often found on pelargoniums rust... It appears as concentric yellowish above and brown below spots on the leaves.
Waterlogged soil can be observed stem decay which manifests itself as dark depressed spots at the base of the stem. This is a sure death of the plant, but you can try to take the apical cutting.
Verticillary wilting caused by a fungus that infects the conductive system of the plant. The disease manifests itself in a gradual yellowing and wilting of the plant and does not respond to treatment.
Infections are also possible with other pathogenic fungi that cause on leaves, petioles and other parts of plants different kinds spotting.

It is important to carry out preventive treatment of plants against fungal diseases in a timely manner, especially on the eve of winter holidays. Plants are abundantly sprayed with preparations or immersed with the crown in a container with a fungicide. It is advisable to use systemic fungicides of a wide spectrum of action, such as Skor, Topaz, Profit Gold, Topsin, etc. When a fungal disease is detected, diseased parts of the plant are removed, and the treatment is carried out with the same preparations.

Pelargonium is often affected whitefly... When purchasing a plant, carefully examine the lower part of the leaf for the presence of small white butterflies or white capsule formations, their larvae. If you find at least a few individuals, you should refuse to purchase.
Upon detection mealybug it is also better not to buy a plant. In the axils of the leaves, on the stems, you can see clusters, similar to pieces of white cotton wool.
Also, pelargoniums can be affected thrips, aphids, mites.

Physiological disorders not associated with diseases or pests

Reddening of the leaves... The reason is too low temperature. The conditions of detention must be changed.
The plant does not bloom although his general condition is good. The reason may be too high a temperature, lack of light, or excessive watering.
The leaves turn yellow and fall off, the edges of the leaves dry... The reason may lie in insufficient watering, with a strong exposure of the stem, in a lack of light.

Photo: Nina Starostenko, Rita Brilliantova

Pelargonium treats well, so it should be watered sparingly and the soil should not dry out. Although drought can tolerate normally.

But also on open sun it is better not to plant it: optimum temperature for growth and development in pelargonium + 15 ° C, therefore, the semi-solar side is considered the best, or it will still have to be shaded.

Depending on the species, pelargonium has a number of individual characteristics, but the principle of planting and caring for by and large is the same. To root green cuttings in the garden, you need to plant them in a mixture of peat and river sand... But you can also root it at home using.

Pelargonium care

Dormant period

Once in the garden, pelargonium blooms all summer. But like any living organism, it gets tired, so let the plant rest for about 1.5-2 months until spring, put it at rest. To do this, do not water pelargonium and do not feed mineral fertilizers... By spring, she will wake up and give flowering again. There are many opinions about the wintering of pelargonium. But I would not dare to leave it in the garden: for the winter, the bush must be transplanted into a pot and taken home.

Pelargonium should not be left in the garden for the winter. Potty her and take her home

Fertilizers

During the period of active pelargonium, use complex fertilizers for flowering plants.

Pruning

In the spring, so that pelargonium actively starts growing and pleases the abundant lush bloom, the tops of the shoots can be pinched. But the tops do not have to be thrown away, they can be rooted and new plants can be obtained.

The tops of the shoots need to be pinched so that next year the bush is lush

Reproduction of pelargonium

Pelargonium propagates by seeds and vegetatively (green cuttings).

Many hobbyists root cuttings right in winter, for this they plant the cuttings in sand or perlite and moisten them. Cuttings are cut from mother plants, wintering at home at temperatures no higher than + 12 ° C. The cuttings are rooted from January at + 16 ° C, already at this temperature the plant begins to give roots. Then the temperature is raised to + 20 ° C, the formation of a full-fledged root system of the cuttings takes about 3 weeks. When root system formed, transplant young plants into small pots, take to the greenhouse for hardening and growing. You can also grow on the window.

Pelargonium cuttings are usually rooted in perlite, but they root well in water.

Seeds must be sown in containers also in winter, from December to February, the soil mixture should consist of river sand and peat or peat alone. It will take about 3 weeks to wait for seedlings, all this time the soil must be regularly moistened. It is advisable to cover the top of the container with a film. When the seedlings reach the phase of three true leaves, they are dived into separate containers. To make the plant more bushy, pinch it over the 6th leaf.

Pelargonium species

The genus Pelargonium has about 250 species that grow in South Africa. In our country, the most widespread, which gave rise to many varieties and hybrids, are the item zonal and the item ivy-leaved.

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Pelargonium zonale

The contoured, patterned leaves of this perennial pelargonium can be light or dark green in color. A number of well-known sources say that this species is annual, but I would say that it simply does not hibernate in the open field. I dig up and transplant into a pot, so even in winter my pelargonium blooms.

In winter, mother liquors are stored at temperatures up to + 23 ° C. When the plant has faded, the shoots are cut to 10 cm and the container is transferred to a bright, cool room with a temperature not exceeding + 15 ° C. By the way, this species tolerates drought well, has many new interesting varieties and hybrids. Bright color (white, red, dark red, crimson, pink) and spherical umbellate inflorescences with simple or double flowers - that is why flower growers love this pelargonium so much. is able to decorate not only a window sill, but also hanging baskets, tubs and containers, flower beds, ridges or borders.

Pelargonium of this species does not tolerate excess moisture, it can withstand temperatures down to -6 ° C, and at temperatures below + 9 ° C, the leaves turn yellow. Varieties and hybrids affect the height of the plant: for example, the variety "Meteor" it is distinguished by its short stature, therefore it is used for curbs. And the series "Rocky Mountain" you can find vigorous varieties, and besides, unusual shades.

Medium-sized unusual varieties

"Rumba Fire"- fiery, I would say, bordering on the "poisonous" saturation of red, attracts attention from any point of view.

"Bravo Pastel"- petals white, smoothly turning into pink, with a delicate raspberry eye

Pelargonium zone "Bravo Pastel"

Pelargonium ivy (Pelargonium peltatum)

The favorite of landscape designers for horizontal gardening. Juicy, fleshy leaves, sometimes framed with a red border, attract attention. They do not smell and do not have pubescence, but outwardly they are somewhat reminiscent of leaves in shape. Shoots of this species are falling, up to 90 cm long. Although they can be 30 cm, depending on the variety.

Pelargonium ivy "Apple Blossom Rosebud"

Again, many sources write about the one-year development cycle of this species, but transplant it in a pot in the fall, and it will live on the window until the spring planting back into the garden. It has a semi-shrub appearance. Flowers on long peduncles, gather in few-flowered thyroid inflorescences. They can be terry or semi-double. The color is white, pink, lilac and red.

Most popular varieties

"Mustang"- deep dark red color.
"Pygmy"- a relatively new series with salmon pink, cherry, pink flowers.

"Red Pandora"- a variety of incomparable tulip pelargonium. Its cherry-red flowers will impress even an experienced gardener.

Pelargonium ivy "Red Pandora"

Meanwhile, many breeders subdivide ivy-leaved according to the strength of growth and ampelous colors. In the group of medium-sized varieties, there are many new lilac and lilac shades.

Pelargonium "Lady Ilchester"

Most varieties have fluffy double flowers and variegated colors.

Pelargonium "Richard Hogson"

Low-growing varieties and hybrids also have a lot of new and interesting things. Juicy bright colors and greens, coupled with a low height, are increasingly becoming welcome guest in the garden. I love simple bright colors.

Variety "Belladonna" as if he had stepped out of retro pictures of the last century, their exquisite doubleness and tenderness of color scheme becomes a tidbit for a gourmet.

Pelargonium "Belladonna"

There are varieties whose flowers are distinguished by simplicity, but they contain the secret of color change with temperature. For example, flowers of the variety "Cascade White", bronze in heat and cold, in normal conditions become familiar orange colors.

Pelargonium ivy is more sensitive to frost than zonal. It begins to freeze out already at -4 ° C. When planting in the ground, the distance between plants is taken to be about 25 cm, and if containers or boxes are used, then about 15 cm.

Pelargonium ivy

Finally, I want to say that in the West, gardeners have long been using ivy pelargonium for arched structures... A favorite technique is also a pyramidal structure: to create such an object, boxes are used, which, like steps, are placed on top of each other.

Do you have pelargonium growing?

Pelargonium is a plant of the Geranium family, which is widely known as geranium. The plant is native to South Africa, where it lives in arid and windy regions.

Geranium is a herbaceous, semi-shrub or shrub plant... Due to its unpretentiousness and abundant flowering, it is very popular for indoor, balcony and garden cultivation.

Love for pelargonium is nourished not only by Soviet grandmothers, but also by the inhabitants of Europe, actively decorating their balconies and loggias with it. It should be noted here that when the plant is grown in spacious tubs, pots and in "free" soil in the garden, it blooms average.

The greatest abundance of inflorescences of different colors can be observed in geraniums growing in cramped pots (naturally, moderately cramped).

In total, there are about 250 species in the Pelargonium genus, on the basis of which, in turn, many varieties have been bred.

The most popular and common types:

Royal (aka large-flowered) - differs in large flowers with zonal coloring of petals. The middle is always darker and velvety, and the edges are very light;
Ivy (or thyroid) pelargonium is distinguished by glossy leaves and velvet flower petals. Its stems usually grow up to 1 meter in length, which made the thyroid look popular for decorating balconies and loggias;
Zonal - characteristic feature of this species is the zonal coloration of the leaves, the edges are always slightly lighter than the center. This is one of the most common species and many varieties have been bred on its basis;
The angel is distinguished by the fragrantness of its leaves and flowers similar to Pansies... The only drawback is the gradual decrease in flowers by autumn;
Scented pelargonium grows quite large and is therefore often used for landscaping gardens. However, you should be careful, because it has very fragile stems that can break in strong winds.

Home care for beginners

By itself, caring for pelargonium is not difficult, and it is perfect for novice flower growers or those who do not really like to tinker with plants. The main thing is to observe a few simple rules and monitor the condition of geraniums. If something goes wrong, for example, you forget to water the plant, everything will be visible in appearance.

Site selection and lighting

Pelargonium is a light-loving plant that can withstand direct sunlight. The best place for its location there will be a south, east or west side. Although in hot weather, pelargonium can "throw off" almost all the leaves and only flowers remain.

Therefore, in a region with a hot climate and in the midst of summer, it is better to remove the plant from the south side. You can do this safely, because moving does not affect geraniums.

In general, the lighting should be abundant, ideally 16 hours of daylight. With a lack of light, the stems begin to stretch out and the plant loses its attractive appearance. In summer, it is better to take geraniums out to the balcony or garden, so that it is directly under the sun.

When choosing a location and lighting, you should consider and individual characteristics species, so fragrant pelargonium prefers shaded places. And for the royal variety, direct sunlight is undesirable, so location on the south side should be avoided.

Temperature and humidity

The temperature regime for pelargonium is moderate. She does not like cold weather or great heat.

Optimal performance:

in summer - +20 - +22 degrees;
in winter - +16 degrees;
some varieties can withstand short cold snaps (for example, zonal pelargonium will withstand a temperature drop of up to +1).

Regarding humidity, normal readings will do. Pelargonium does not require additional moistening (spraying). An extreme case is very dry air during extreme heat. But strong wet air can lead to stem and root rot and infections.

Also watch for air circulation. It should be constantly. In the stale, stagnant air, the plant will begin to ache. This is especially important during wintering.

Watering and feeding

V frequent watering geranium does not need. You need to navigate as the soil dries up. But there are several rules, in the summer the soil should always remain moist (but not wet).

The best way to check if it's time to water your pelargonium or not is to feel the soil. The top layer should be dry, but under it (about 1 cm deep), the ground should already be damp.

In winter, watering is carried out less frequently than in summer. The soil should dry well. During cold weather, geranium water is needed 1 time in about 10 days.

After watering, be sure to wait for the water to drain into the sump. After 10 minutes, drain the liquid and wait for it to drain completely. It is best to water in a sump rather than pouring water directly under the roots. Know the most experienced gardeners and flower growers. But even if you do everything "as usual" - it's okay, the main thing is to remove excess liquid later. This rule applies to both winter and summer watering.

Feeding is even easier. It must be applied during the flowering period - this is approximately from early spring to late autumn. A solution for flowering plants is applied every two weeks. You can choose any fertilizing that is not rich in nitrogen. For dosage, see the instructions for each specific fertilizer.

Transfer

Pelargonium practically does not need to be transplanted, the only exception is the transplanting of rooted cuttings, but more on that later. Pelargonium grows for about three years, therefore, usually, only the topsoil is replaced with a new one (the mixture is compiled in the same way as the soil in which the plant is already growing).

Geranium soil is a mixture of leafy and turfy soil mixed with sand and peat. The volume of each component is the same, i.e. the ratio is 1: 1: 1: 1.

Pruning

It is necessary to prune the plant annually, at the very beginning of the flowering period, i.e. in early spring. Usually all the upper shoots are removed (then they can be used for reproduction). Such pruning allows for precisely the lateral growth of pelargonium and abundant flowering.

Bloom

Geranium color, as already indicated, from early spring to late autumn. Flowering form - several umbellate inflorescences. They can be of completely different colors (depending on the type and variety). The flowers also differ in size (in some species they are large, like in the royal, in others they are smaller).

Reproduction at home

Domestic pelargonium can be propagated in two ways: by seeds and using cuttings. The first, when growing at home, is not very common, since it is rather difficult.

For seed propagation, a container is prepared in the spring and filled with light soil. Seeds are sown in the ground and watered regularly. The first time the temperatures should be 20-22 degrees.

As soon as the pelargonium has risen, the container is moved to a more illuminated place, but the temperature is already kept at 15 degrees.

In mid-summer, young plants are transplanted into a mixture of leafy and soddy soil with phosphorus and sand. When this is observed, the components are taken in equal quantities.

For vegetative propagation a small pot (about 19 cm in diameter) is taken by cuttings. To begin with, drainage is laid at the bottom, and then a mixture of peat and sand is poured.

Cuttings should have 3-5 pairs of leaves, but not less than 2. They are cut either at the knot, or slightly below. From cut cuttings, the lower pair of leaves is removed, leaving a bare "column".

After preparing the cuttings, you need to make holes in the soil closer to the edge of the pot. After that, place the cuttings there so that all the leaves are above the soil and lightly tamp the soil.

Now you need to wait a few days for the roots to "adhere" to the soil. Only then can the young sprouts be watered. Transplant pelargonium into larger pots by mid-summer.

The soil mixture is prepared from leaf and turf soil, sand and peat, all in equal proportions.

Diseases and pests

Pelargonium, although a hardy plant, can sometimes get sick, often due to improper care.

Geranium diseases:

gray rot;
rust;
verticillary wilting;
stem decay;
other pathogenic fungi, due to which different spots appear on the leaves and petioles.

If a plant begins to develop gray rot, then a gray bloom begins to appear on its leaves, shoots, main stems and even flower petals. This is due to low temperatures, air humidity and lack of ventilation, abundant watering.

Prevention:

observe in winter temperature regime required for pelargonium;
ventilate the room regularly;
do not put plants close to each other;
remove dry or diseased leaves;
do not water more than once every 10 days.

If you have already found gray rot then remove all affected areas first. Treat the plant with 0.5% copper chloride solution.

Rust

Rust can be detected by concentric circles Brown on the inside sheet. WITH outside only yellow circles will be visible on the plates.

Causes: dampness, insufficient ventilation.

Treatment: you need to cut off all affected leaves and treat the plant with a benlate solution at the rate of 1 g per 1 liter.

Verticillary wilting

This disease is caused by a fungus that attacks the conductive system of pelargonium. Geranium leaves gradually wither and turn yellow. There is no cure.

Stem decay

A black spot begins to appear and grow at the base of the stem. Gradually, the stem completely decays at the base. There is no treatment. The most that can be done is to cut off the cutting from the top and prevent the disease itself. Reasons: too much watering.

Pests

Insects that infect pelargonium:

Whitefly is a very small white butterfly. Instead, there may be small white larvae on the plant;
Mites live on the underside of the leaf and their presence can be detected by the characteristic thin cobweb on the plant. When infected with a tick, the leaves gradually become marbled due to the deprivation of nutrients;
Mealybug - found in characteristic cotton-like lumps in the axils of leaves and stems.

At the time of purchase, carefully check the plant for the presence of whitefly or mealybugs. If you suddenly find signs of pests or themselves, refuse to buy.

Treatment: Reduce watering, ventilate the area thoroughly, and additional fertilization can be applied.

Potential problems and solutions

In addition to infecting the plant with various diseases and pests, less terrible problems are possible. They usually arise from improper care and are treated by eliminating the cause.

Problems and solution:

If the leaves of pelargonium begin to turn red, then the temperature is too low and you need to set the required temperature regime;
Few flowers, but a large number of leaves - you apply a lot of fertilizers, reduce the amount, or better, temporarily stop feeding;
The lower leaves turn yellow - lack of moisture and lack of ventilation.

The main thing in caring for this amazing plant- this is to follow all the simple rules or correct the situation in time. And the rest of the plant does not cause any inconvenience and pleases the eye with its flowering.

A few tips for shaping lush bush pelargonium is in the next video.