Monstera flower care. How to plant young plants at home

Monstera belongs to the family of tropical plants with large leaves called aroids. The older the young plant becomes, the more clearly holes appear on its leaves, which will eventually become cuts.

The temperature for the correct growth of monstera must be at least seventeen degrees. In winter, this rule can be ignored.

In summer, the temperature should be between twenty and twenty-five degrees.

In winter between ten and eighteen.

Lighting should be direct, but direct sunlight should be avoided. Better let it be half light. The lack of light is reflected by a decrease in cuts.

Since Monstera is a tropical plant, the humidity must be high. It should be remembered that air humidity depends on temperature. The lower the temperature, the less water is needed.

To remove dust, the flower must be wiped with a damp cloth.

There should always be a lot of places for monstera, since it grows rapidly and sometimes takes five meters in length.

Monstera loves turf and peat soil, mixed with sand and humus.

Care

Monstera flowers are white, similar to a closed lily. In suitable conditions, it even bears fruit, but not many flower growers are able to create such conditions from scratch, without experience. Now we will talk about them in more detail.

Up to four years, the monster must be transplanted regularly. After that, once every two or three years. Pots should be large and spacious.

The soil should be: peat, sod, humus and sand in a ratio of 1:3:1:1.

Rejuvenation

If a plant has lost its luxurious appearance by shedding leaves from the underside of the trunk, it's time to renew it.

To do this, in the spring, cut thirty centimeters from the top of the plant and lower it into the water. After it gives roots, filling the container with them, it can be planted in a pot and looked after like an ordinary monstera.

reproduction

This plant reproduces in three ways.

• Seeds. They must be sown and leave the pot in a warm room. In a month they will sprout, and in two years the monstera will already have nine leaves.
• Cuttings. As them, lateral and stem processes are suitable. Plant the shoot in a pot in the soil from a mixture of sand and humus, cover with glass and water twice a day. After the appearance of the roots, you can transplant.
• Air outlet. It must have its own leaf and root. It is planted and grows as an independent plant.

Monstera is easy to care for, and it will constantly delight with its huge leaves and beautiful appearance.

Monstera - liana with large beautiful leaves. It is valued by flower growers for its exotic appearance and unpretentiousness. responds gratefully to good conditions content is growing rapidly. Sometimes blooms, although it is grown mainly as an ornamental leafy plant. Monstera care at home is aimed at creating a tropical microclimate.

Monstera is a bright representative of a large aroid family. The natural habitat is damp, warm forests of Northern and South America. Widely used for landscaping apartments and offices.

Botanical description

Leaves big size, up to half a meter in diameter, leathery, dark. At a young age, they are whole, heart-shaped. Over time, the shape of the leaves changes, becomes more interesting - deeply dissected, with numerous holes appear. different sizes. The petioles are long, in well-developed adult plants reaching a meter.

Stems curly, strong. Long cord-like aerial roots descend from the main nodes. They tend to the surface of the earth, take root on their own next to the main stem. The functions of aerial roots are to create support, receive additional moisture and nutrition from the air and soil.

Despite the fact that the plant produces a lot of aerial roots, they are not enough to hold the heavy monstera stem. Some do not sink into the soil, but are attached to the wall like suction cups.

Monstera rarely blooms at home. From small flowers, a cob-shaped inflorescence is formed, covered with a greenish veil. It looks like a flower. If the inflorescence is not removed, the fruit ripens - an ear consisting of berries.

Like all creepers, monstera needs reliable support. They begin to tie it up and set the direction of growth early. Gradually, the monstera stems become woody, becoming not so flexible. Special rigid nets are used as supports, cords are pulled.

There are about 50 varieties of monstera in the genus. All of them differ in appearance, size, structure. Only five species are used as indoor crops.

1. Delicacy. Young leaves without cuts, heart-shaped. As they grow older, they become deeply dissected. The leaves are large - about 60 cm in diameter. During flowering, a cob-shaped inflorescence up to 25 cm long is formed, wrapped in a light veil with a slight greenish tint. In the conditions of an apartment, the length of the vine does not exceed three meters. With proper care mature plant may bloom annually. A hybrid variegated form has been artificially bred. It has improved decorative characteristics, but grows more slowly, more demanding to care for.
2. Adanson. The variety is characterized by thinner ovate leaves with many small holes. Inflorescence cob-shaped, up to 13 cm long. In cramped conditions, it practically does not bloom.
3. Borziga. A variety of delicacy monstera. The main differences are thinner stems and smaller leaves.
4. Oblique. Leaves elliptic or oblong lanceolate, without cuts. They are attached to the stem with short petioles. The cob consists of several flowers, about 4 cm long.
5. Punched (perforated). Leaves broadened at the base, unequal. Numerous holes are unevenly distributed along the plane of the sheet. The inflorescence is medium in size, covered with a white veil.

The ears of the delicacy monstera are edible. At home, plants are even grown for industrial purposes. The berries have a sweet and sour taste with a mixed flavor of strawberry and pineapple. From the moment of flowering to fruit ripening, at least ten months pass. Even from fully ripe berries, a burning sensation sometimes appears in the mouth due to the content of calcium oxalate in the composition. Unripe fruits are poisonous. An easy way to determine the maturity of an ear is to separate a few scales. In a ripe fruit, they are easily torn off.

Actions after purchase

How you take care of the monster after the purchase depends on its subsequent development. A small sprout in a pot will very quickly turn into a large vine. But for this he needs to create suitable conditions, taking into account four parameters.

1. Transplant. It is better to transplant the monster into another pot immediately after purchase. Prolonged stay in the transport soil will negatively affect the development of the plant. Capacity is chosen taking into account rapid growth creepers, be sure to pour a thick layer of drainage.
2. Disease prevention. The initial stages of diseases and single pests may go unnoticed during inspection. To prevent the invasion of insects, the monstera is alternately treated with small doses of insecticide and fungicide.
3. Location choice. Immediately choose appropriate place- warm, well-lit, with the possibility of installing a support or pulling ropes. Monstera is usually placed in the most illuminated corner of the room. Rearranging the grown vine will not be easy.
4. Humidity . Monstera requires high humidity for faster adaptation. Additionally, you can spray the vine with water with the addition of a small amount of growth stimulant.

Monster care: what to consider

Monstera is considered a fairly unpretentious, easy-care liana. The main difficulty lies in creating reliable supports for fast-growing shoots, maintaining high humidity air. How to care for a monstera and create favorable conditions for it to grow?

• Lighting. Monstera needs a lot of light for full growth, but she does not like direct sun. Placed in a room facing east, west or south. It is not recommended to keep it on the north side. Choose the lightest corner of the room. With a lack of light, the leaves become smaller, the aerial roots become thin and weak.
• Temperature . No strict compliance requirements temperature regime. But at high rates, the monstera grows faster. Favorable temperature in spring and autumn is about 20–25 ˚С. Reacts well to heat. In winter, it is recommended to reduce the temperature of the content to 16–18 ˚С. A temporary cooling is necessary for subsequent flowering. Drafts are avoided at any time of the year.
• Watering. Water the monster correctly with warm, pre-boiled and settled water. The frequency of watering is determined by the conditions of detention, the volume of soil and the size of the vine. Large leaves actively evaporate moisture, therefore they maintain stable soil moisture. In late spring, summer and early autumn, watering is plentiful, frequent - immediately after the soil surface dries.
• Humidity . Monstera needs daily spraying with warm boiled water. Additionally, they increase the humidity using special devices, placing cans of water in close proximity to the pot. As dust settles on the leaves, they are gently wiped with a damp cloth.
• Top dressing. Young plants do not need to be fed. Adult specimens need regular feeding. Use a balanced fertilizer for deciduous crops. To stimulate flowering, you can fertilize the monstera with a complex containing phosphorus.
• The soil . The composition of the soil varies depending on the age of the vine. Young plants need neutral to slightly acidic soil. It is made up of sand, peat, turf and humus. Optimum acidity pH 5.5–6.0. As they grow, deciduous soil is included in the composition of the soil.
• Pruning . If an adult vine stops growing, cut off the crown to stimulate branching. The vine does not need regular forming pruning.
• Transplant. Young specimens are transplanted annually, large ones - after three to four years. Take into account the features of caring for the monstera after transplantation - moderately moist soil, shading from the sun, daily spraying. Microdoses of a growth stimulator are added to the water.
• Polishing . Liana needs high humidity, but after spraying the leaves become dull. To give them shine, special polishing aerosols are used.

In the summer, in the heat, when the air humidity is very low, the ends of the aerial roots are dipped in bottles of water or wrapped in wet sphagnum.

Conditions for flowering

In reviews, flower growers often complain that the liana does not bloom. At home, it is really possible to achieve flowering only a delicacy monstera. To do this, you need to create conditions as close as possible to the climate of the tropics.

• Bright lighting. Monstera should receive a sufficient amount of diffused sunlight at any time of the year. In winter, it is desirable to provide additional lighting.
• High humidity. You need to spray the vine daily. And in hot weather - several times a day.
• Loose soil. The soil is moderately nutritious, loose, easily permeable to water and air.
• spacious pot. Monstera does not tolerate crowding. The pot is taken large, "for growth."
• aerial roots. They are helped to take root in the same pot or immersed in water bottles. You can't cut the roots!

Subject to all these rules, the monstera will fully develop. But you can not expect flowering from a young plant - flower stalks are formed only on adult or old specimens.

Monstera has interesting feature- before the rain she "cries". Large drops gather at the tips of its leaves. It's connected with high humidity air. Excess moisture is excreted through special organs - hydathodes.

Reproduction methods

Monstera is considered not just unpretentious, but tenacious plant. It easily propagates vegetatively. Monstera can be propagated in five different ways.

1. Apical cuttings. Cut off the top with a few leaves, put in a jar of water. After the roots appear, they are planted in a pot with a light substrate. After cutting the tops on the main stem, side shoots.
2. stem cuttings. The most common method of reproduction. They are mainly used to rejuvenate old specimens with bald stems. The stem is cut into pieces. At least one kidney is left on each of them. rooted stem cuttings in wet sand or a mixture of sand and peat. Before planting, the sections are dried a little, treated with coal powder. If there are aerial roots on the handle, they are laid around the perimeter of the pot, lightly sprinkled with soil. Three cuttings are planted in one pot at once. For quick rooting, create greenhouse conditions - cover the stem segments with banks or polyethylene.
3. Lateral processes. By analogy with the rooting of the apical cutting, side shoots can also be rooted. But not every monstera has them.
4. Leaves. The leaf is cut off at the very base, capturing a small piece of the stem. They put it in a jar of water, wait for the formation of a dense ball of roots, and only then plant it in the soil.
5. Air layers. Choose a side shoot monstera with small aerial roots. At the level of the roots, the shoot is wrapped with wet sphagnum, fixed with cling film. Moss is regularly moistened. After the formation of roots, the shoot is carefully cut off, planted in the soil.

Seed propagation is used very rarely. Seedlings grow slowly - in the first two years of life they form only three to five leaves.

To prevent cuttings and leaves from rotting in a jar, use only boiled water add an activated charcoal tablet to it. The cuttings are pre-washed under running water, soaked in a pale solution of potassium permanganate for ten minutes.

Common mistakes flower growers

The decoration of the vine suffers from improper care. The leaves become smaller or turn pale, growth weakens, the stem stretches and becomes bare. To understand what containment conditions are violated, it is enough to study the table.

Table - Monster Care Mistakes and Their Consequences

Pests and diseases

Monstera rarely gets sick. Sometimes you have to deal with fungal diseases, root rot as a result poor drainage or overflow. Treatment in both cases is carried out according to the same scheme - rotten roots are cut off, treated with coal powder and fungicide. Liana is transplanted into fresh, sterile soil. With severe damage to the roots, they cannot be reanimated. In this case, cut and root the top. Pests are much more common. Their description and signs of damage can be seen in the table.

Table - Monster Pests

cultivation home flower monstera - perfect solution for beginners and busy people. It is fast growing, beautiful and unpretentious plant. Monstera will enliven any interior without causing much trouble to the owner.

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What does it look like . A small genus of perennial evergreen vines that contains about 20 plant species. The monstera flower is a very large and spectacular epiphytic plant that has well-developed, long, straight aerial roots, which cling to the support. Aerial roots appear at leaf nodes opposite leaf blades. The leaves are dark green, glossy, rounded, up to 45 cm in diameter, located on long petioles - up to 30 cm, young leaves are whole, large leaves become carved. Only the leaves that have appeared are folded into a tight tube and have a lighter, green tint. Carved leaves are necessary for the plant so that moisture droplets can freely enter the root system through them. During the flowering period, the monstera throws out an inflorescence - an ear up to 25 cm long, surrounded by a white veil.

A flowering monstera plant is extremely rare to be found in room culture. Ripe monstera fruits are oblong and light green, edible and palatable - reminiscent of pineapple, but they take almost a year to ripen. The roots of the creeper are located not only in the ground - the plant has long aerial roots hanging from the trunk and also saturating the plants with moisture and nutrients. In general, the monstera is a very beautiful liana, and perhaps it got its name due to its gigantic size.

Monstera types:

Monstera delicacy or attractive - Monstera deliciosa

The most common and easily recognizable species in cultivation, the plants initially produce whole, green, heart-shaped leaves with a glossy surface, but with age, the leaf blades become carved. This type has long light brown roots hanging from the trunk. In the natural environment, these roots serve the plant to attach to tree trunks. Another name for this species is perforated philodendron.

variegated, marbled or spotted - Monstera Variegated

Very showy varieties with beautiful, carved leaves dark green with white spots and stripes - can be found among all monstera subspecies. All leaves on the plant have different colors from combinations of white, light green and green tones. The white parts of the leaf do not contain chlorophyll, and therefore, to maintain an attractive appearance This plant should be placed in a bright room. When grown in partial shade, the leaves will be green. All varieties of monstera can be variegated.

Monstera oblique or unequal - Monstera Obliqua

A miniature monstera, reaching a height of 1 m, is rarely found on sale. Often the leaves of this monstera are not cut to the edges of the leaf plates, but are oblong - oval holes. Leaf blades are thin, hard, openwork, often only small areas around the veins. This species often loses its attractiveness with age - the plants stretch and lose some of the leaves - periodically change old specimens to new plants obtained using cuttings.

For those who love this plant, but are afraid to start it because of their large size, there are mini-monsters, the leaves of which often do not exceed 5 cm in length.

Monstera Friedrichstahl or Adanson - Monstera friedrichsthalii, Monstera adansonii

A giant evergreen herbaceous vine, the stems of which can reach 10 - 20 m in length, develops more slowly than the rest of the monstera. The leaves are green, lanceolate, on long, straight petioles, reach 65 cm, have oblong, oval holes.

Monstera punched or holey - Monstera pertusa

Evergreen liana with green, flexible shoots. At the leaf nodes, the stems form aerial roots. The leaves are green, glossy, on long petioles, palmately carved.

Height. When grown in a home culture, indoor monstera can reach a height of 3 - 4.5 m, grows quickly and gains up to 1.5 m in height during the season.

Monstera at home

Temperature conditions . It's thermophilic indoor plant prefers keeping at normal room temperature throughout the year. When the temperature rises, the humidity of the air should also be increased, when the temperature drops below 18 ° C, the monstera slows down or stops its growth altogether. Monstera tolerates temperature fluctuations, however, do not expose it to temperatures below 13 ° C.

Lighting. Well lit location. It is necessary to shade from the direct rays of the sun in summer and spring, during the daytime. In the morning and evening, plants can take sunbathing. In autumn and winter, when the sun is often hidden by clouds, the plant should be provided with the maximum possible lighting. Monstera stops growing in deep shade, and its leaves will not be as delicate as those of vines grown in the light. Variegated plants require more sun - when grown in partial shade, their leaves may simply turn green.

Care. Monstera stems often need support - use a large pole braided with moss or coconut fiber as a support for plants - the monstera will conveniently cling to it with aerial roots. Monstera develops quickly and fills all the free space, so large varieties often need pruning. To maintain a neat appearance, its stems can be cut into warm time of the year. Wipe the leaves periodically with a damp sponge from dust. The aerial roots of the plant that reach the surface of the substrate should, if possible, be sprinkled with soil - they will additionally feed the vine. If the roots are hard and become unmanageable - wrap them with cling film along with the trunk - after a while they will become soft and pliable.

Remove old, yellowing leaves that may occasionally appear at the base of the plant. Rotate the plant container every 2 weeks a quarter of a turn if possible so that the leaves do not lean towards the light source. The petioles of the leaves are brittle, so you should not place the plant in the corridors, when placed near heating appliances monstera can suffer from dry air. Liana will develop well on fresh air in the warm season, under cover from the direct rays of the sun and rain - however, any changes in the content of the plant should be accustomed gradually.

Soil for monstera . Compost should be well-drained and nutritious. A mixture of garden soil with peat, leaf humus is suitable. Add a big one river sand or vermiculite and perlite to improve drainage. The soil should have a neutral or alkaline pH. It will be useful to add charcoal in a small amount - this will loosen the soil and add useful minerals. Monstera loves a very loose substrate that will allow moisture and air to pass to the roots of the plant.

top dressing. Feed with a liquid compound foliar fertilizer every two weeks during the growing season. For top dressing, fertilizers are used in an equal content of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in the composition. Liana responds positively to organic top dressing. If the plant is kept cool during the winter months, top dressing should be stopped until new growth begins in the spring. Since in its natural habitat the monstera behaves like an epiphytic plant, the results are excellent. foliar top dressing- when the nutrient solution is applied directly on the leaves with a spray bottle.

Purpose. large, beautiful plant for winter gardens or landscaping large offices and halls. Remember that most species need a large, spacious room to thrive.

flowering time. Monstera rarely blooms indoors.

Air humidity . When the temperature of the content rises above 22 ° C, the humidity of the air should also be increased by spraying the leaves of the plant or placing it on a pallet with wet pebbles or sphagnum moss. Spraying should be done in the morning so that the moisture evaporates before dusk. Do not spray plants in direct sunlight - burns may appear on the leaves. For spraying, it is necessary to use only softened water at room temperature - in this case, there will be no whitish streaks and spots on the dark green glossy leaves. If the flower is grown on a support braided with sphagnum or coconut fiber, you can spray the support itself. Also, to increase the humidity of the air, you can place a room humidifier near the plants or simply form a garden of several plants in one place - they will together increase the humidity of the air. Monstera loves warm showers with a temperature of about 40 ° C during the summer months. The plant does not like cold drafts, but welcomes good air movement.

Photo: Jared

Monstera watering. Watering should be plentiful, but the soil should dry up to 1/3 of the depth or to a depth of 5 - 6 cm in potted plants before each next watering. With a cool wintering, the frequency of watering is significantly reduced and the plant is kept in almost dry soil. Excess moisture that appears in the pan after watering must be drained.

How to transplant monstera . Young plants are transplanted in the spring, annually, changing the size of the pot to a larger one. Transplanting adult plants is difficult due to their size, so change annually upper layer soil fresh. When planting, keep the same depth at which the plant was in the previous pot. Decorative monstera loves spacious containers - in modest pots, plants slow down their development. When transplanting, inspect the root system - damaged and rotten roots should be cut with a sharp sterile instrument and sprinkled with crushed charcoal. When planting, the soil around the plant is compacted to remove air pockets.

How monstera breeds . Monstera is often propagated by cuttings. Stem or apical cuttings, rooted in a wet mixture of peat and coarse sand, in spring and early summer. To do this, part of the stem is cut off with a sharp sterile tool just below the leaf node (the cut should be oblique), and the cut point on the mother plant is treated with finely crushed charcoal. A hacksaw is sometimes required to separate cuttings from large mature plants. The base of the cuttings is powdered with growth hormones. The lower leaves are removed from the cuttings and rooted under cover of glass or a plastic cap for 1.5 months. Cuttings can be rooted even in plain water without the use of growth hormones, and roots appear much faster in an opaque dish. Planting such specimens in the ground is carried out when the roots reach a length of about 5 cm. A not too large pot is selected for planting - after all, the flower will increase its green mass only when it has mastered the space of the pot with the root system. Plants rooted in water, when planted in the ground, slightly slow down in development - they root system gradually adapts to new conditions. The first roots can be seen within 3-4 weeks. When rooted in the ground, a sign of the success of the process will be the appearance of new growth.

Air layers - to do this, find a leaf with an air root located below it. Just below the root, make an incision with a sharp sterile instrument about a third of the trunk diameter deep.

Wrap the base of the leaf, aerial root and cut with a thick - about 3 cm layer of wet sphagnum moss and cover plastic wrap so that the moss does not dry out. After some time, roots will appear in this place - then the cutting can be separated from mother plant and plant separately. Remember that young plants should be placed in a warm place without direct sunlight.

By seed - germination in fresh seeds can occur within a few weeks. Young monsters develop relatively slowly. Over time, the seeds quickly lose their germination capacity, so only fresh material is used for propagation.

Pests and diseases . The leaves become smaller, and the petioles become shorter with a lack of lighting or nutrients in the ground. lower leaves room monsters turn yellow when waterlogged. The edges of the leaves dry and turn brown with insufficient air humidity. The leaves of adult plants remain intact with a lack of light or nutrients in the soil. When moisture stagnates, plants rot - while at the initial stage, water droplets appear on the edges of the leaf plates after watering, the leaves may droop. When the process becomes already running, dark weeping spots appear on the leaf plates. Such plants are freed from the soil, inspect the root system and cut off rotten and old roots. Before landing in new ground the root system is dried for 2 - 3 hours in the open air. It is impossible to plant flooded specimens in the old soil - rot pathogens remain in the ground. If the watering is stable, and the old leaves of the plant turn yellow, and the young ones become small, then there are not enough nutrients in the soil. Leaf spotting. When exposed to direct sunlight, burns appear on the leaves in the form of brownish large spots. Spider mites, mealybugs.

Note. Monstera contains toxins in all parts of the plant, so be careful when handling it. Keep monstera away from children and pets. The sap of the plant can cause contact dermatitis. When ingested, poisoning occurs, the symptoms of which are burning of the mucous membranes, the esophagus and stomach, profuse salivation, and the formation of blisters at the points of contact of the mucous membranes with the juice of the plant. Fruits should be eaten only when fully ripe, as unripe ones contain juice that irritates the mucous membranes.

Monstera is able to purify indoor air from such harmful substances, like formaldehyde, adds oxygen to the room atmosphere and increases air humidity. Plants have been growing for many years enclosed spaces with proper care. Monstera "cries" with a sharp change in air pressure, especially if it is in a room with high humidity. The condensate settles on large leaves plants and droplets of moisture roll onto the edges of the leaf plates.

Hydroponics. Monstera is successfully grown in hydroponics.

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This plant looks great in an apartment or office. Caring for him is quite simple, and there are practically no problems with transplantation. There are some completely simple tips on how to properly propagate the monstera, depending on the method chosen.

Propagation of monstera by cuttings

This method is the most common. It is necessary to select cuttings with one aerial root to make it easier to work with it. Take a clean sharp knife or clippers. The cut site must be treated with crushed charcoal so that the infection does not spread in the future.

This method of breeding monstera is also well suited for rejuvenating the plant. The cut is made slightly below the air root. Then the workpiece is placed in water and after two weeks the seedling will take root. Monstera grows quite quickly and does not tolerate frequent transplants, so it is necessary to pick up a pot for growth in advance.

For an old bare plant, there is a method. The stem is cut into cuttings, each of which should have three eyes. The slices are sprinkled with charcoal and dried a little. Then planted under jars in separate pots. It is necessary to water the seedlings daily and in a month young shoots will appear.

Monstera: propagation by aerial roots

Now let's look at how to propagate the monster with the help of aerial processes-roots. To do this, two or three of the uppermost roots are wrapped in wet moss or dipped in a container of water. After such a procedure, after a while, small roots will begin to appear from the air. During this period, for reproduction, the upper part of the monstera is cut off along with leaves and roots. The slices are sprinkled with charcoal and the finished cutting is planted in a pot.

The plant produces apical shoots with roots by late spring. After such a procedure, an adult plant continues to grow and produces side shoots. As a result, it becomes more loose and rejuvenated.

Reproduction of monstera at home: seed method

Before you propagate the monstera in this way, you need to prepare a warm room with a constant temperature and diffused light. After landing, the earth is constantly sprayed with water from a spray bottle and does not allow it to dry out. If you follow all these rules, you can expect shoots in a month. In another six months, the seedlings will release a couple of true leaves. A year after planting, you will get strong plants with a developed root system and two or three pairs of leaves. Dive seedlings begin after they become noticeably crowded in one container.

All three methods have a place to be and everyone chooses what is acceptable for themselves. For each of the options there are a number of identical recommendations.

In almost every home or institution we meet unusual plant in a pot - monstera. Young, it looks like a bush, with thin stems, decorated with wide carved leaves. The adult resembles a palm tree and reaches an impressive size.

Sometimes monstera has a different color - from dark green to spotted. It depends on the species. In total there are about 50 varieties.

Monstera is related to the liana, therefore it likes to curl around a support - a lattice or a pillar.

For them, the plant grabs its tenacious roots, which grow directly from the branches and in the process of life reach a relatively large size.

The plant is very tenacious and unpretentious, grows quietly at home. All care is not to forget to water and wipe the beautiful leaves from dust every three days.

Per unusual view the monstera was nicknamed the "monster".

There is another version of the translation of the Latin word "monstrum", from which the name comes - this is "miracle". You feel it when you look at the “monster” flowering: white flowers appear between the leaves, similar to boats with a pestle mast and one petal, curved in the form of a sail.

The green "monster" is growing rapidly, so every owner has encountered his transplant. The main thing at the same time is to know how to transplant the monster correctly so that there are no further problems with the development of its root system and growth.

Monstera transplant

We transplant a young plant once a year, if it is older than 4 years, then we change the pots every two to three years. We choose peat soil, add humus, put sand or any other drainage on the bottom.

Transplant young, still small indoor flower easily:

1. We take a larger pot, put drainage in it;
2. We cover the drainage with a layer of soil;
3. We spill the pot with the plant, wait 15 minutes until the water soaks the soil well;
4. We take a scoop and carefully pass it along the edge of the flowerpot so that the roots are slightly removed from the walls of the pot;
5. We turn the planter on its side, while holding this plant at the base of the trunk with our hand so that it does not break;
6. We knock on the bottom of the pot, the rhizome with soil should slightly move outward.
7. All the time we hold the base of the trunk, with the second hand we help to promote the soil with roots. We try to do as little damage to the plant as possible;
8. When the contents are completely freed from the old container, we put it on paper or a newspaper spread spread on the floor in advance;
9. We clean the rhizome from the old earth as much as possible. We sift the soil with our hands or place it in a bucket of water to wash off a portion of the old “worn out” earth;
10. In a new planter we make a recess, water it, plant a monstera;
11. Sprinkle with earth on top, water again;
12. We press the soil with our hands, but do not be zealous. When the earth settles, add more, until the roots disappear from view after the next watering. Ready!

Add fertilizer

When the monstera is already showing off in a new place, you need to add mineral fertilizers so that they nourish the rhizome, contributing to its rapid adaptation. Watch the plant for the first week, how it takes root, whether the leaves turn yellow, whether there is a fungus on the soil surface, because transplanting is always stressful for him. If all indicators are normal, your vine has grown stronger and does not get sick, be proud - now you know how to transplant a monstera at home.

If our “miracle” has long shoots from almost every branch, the so-called aerial roots, then they are placed in improvised water containers - bottles, jars - so that they do not dry out and give the plant additional nutrition. If the shoots have reached a significant size in length, then they are dug into the ground. With the help of these roots, the flower multiplies.

Let's see how easy it is to transplant a monstera with aerial roots:

1. We cut off a leaf with a stem or a whole branch with aerial shoots;
2. We place in a vessel with water;
3. When the main process starts secondary roots, we prepare the pots;
4. Let's decide in which pot it is best to transplant the monstera: a spacious five-liter container will do. Do not skimp on the volume, the plant will feel much more comfortable in a large pot;
5. We prepare the soil and drainage;
6. We plant a flower according to already known technology.

Transplantation of large specimens

If cared for properly, Monstera grows vigorously. And now, a beauty under two meters does not want to live in an old pot, it becomes cramped for her, the root system does not “breathe”. It's time to think about how to transplant such a large monstera to a more spacious place.

The transplant sequence is the same as with a young plant.

Consider the nuances:

1. The new pot should be spacious and roomy. A volume of at least 4-5 liters;
2. Special soil for indoor flowers, which includes peat, turf and sand, as well as useful fertilizers. Don't forget about the drainage layer;
3. We spill the container with the monstera, let the water soak in;
4. We work the soil at the edges of the pot with a knife;
5. We call a friend for help, it is difficult for one to cope with a large flower;
6. The support on which the plant rests (for example, a rod with palm fibers) is placed on a prepared row of chairs. This will save the monstera from damage. We keep the cache-pot on weight;
7. We gently shake the soil with a rhizome, help with our hands;
8. Part of the old land is removed;
9. We fix the support with stems and leaves vertically, lower the roots into a new pot;
10. We fall asleep with earth, spill it. After watering, the plant will settle, add more soil;
11. We put the transplanted plant in a large and spacious room. The stems of the creeper are sprawling and massive, if you put it, for example, in a tight corner, then it can wither and eventually die.

With proper care and care, your home will be decorated with a green liana with wide leaves. Do not forget to treat the plant with warmth, then it will answer you unusual flowering and longevity.