Layout of an extension to a wooden house. Affordable extensions to the house - the only solution for small and cramped homes

Sooner or later, every homeowner begins to think about expanding the living space. And here a lot of questions arise, the main one of which is how to do it? Nowadays, the range of materials on the construction markets is quite impressive, which means that there are plenty of options for how to increase housing. Today we will look at some of them. We will find out what an extension can be (projects and photo examples will help in this), and also try to understand how difficult such construction can be. It doesn't hurt to learn how to do this kind of work yourself.

On the Internet you can find various projects of extensions to the house. And before starting such construction, it is worth familiarizing yourself with them. This will allow you to adopt any solutions, and then add your own. Only then can you get a unique building that will not only be, but also increase your living space.

Many may say that such construction is too labor-intensive and almost impossible to do on their own, but this is a delusion. With the right approach and the study of all the nuances, this is not so difficult, although you will have to face some difficulties. But, as they say, the eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing. But as a reward, you can get not only a do-it-yourself extension to a wooden house, but also satisfaction from the work done. In addition, the funds saved on the remuneration of specialists will not be superfluous.

Consider the various options for extensions in general terms, as well as examples of similar work done by ordinary home craftsmen without any experience.

Solutions for adding a veranda to a wooden house in photo examples

Such a building is quite relevant for summer residents who love to sit in the evenings over a cup of tea with family or friends. After all, it is much more pleasant to communicate in the open air than in a closed room. In addition, it is possible that the veranda will be thought out in such a way that it is possible to install. This will protect it from snow, as well as add warmth to the house itself.

Another plus of such a building is that for the winter period you can spend there. In this case, it can even be used as an additional room. But this is more suitable not for summer residents, but for owners in the private residential sector who live indoors for a whole year.

The material for such buildings is most often wood. Sometimes, if there is such an opportunity, it is made on those sides that do not adjoin the house. We offer you to see a few photos of wooden verandas attached to the house:

Looking at these photos of wooden porches attached to the house, it seems that they are built by professionals, but they are not. Today we will definitely consider how you can do this with your own hands.

Variants of terraces attached to the house - how do they differ from the veranda

You should start with what many confuse. But the differences here are fundamental. The fact is that the veranda is always attached to the house, but the terrace opposite is located and does not adjoin the house. In addition, terraces are often without a roof and walls. At their core, they are open. Hence the consequence - they are built more often from a more durable material that tolerates precipitation.

Of course, there are options for adding terraces to wooden ones, but this is rather an exception. At the same time, if we go back only a few decades ago, then at that time an open (without a roof) platform of natural or artificial origin was considered a terrace.

Now many people confuse these two concepts, calling verandas adjacent to the house as terraces on stilts, but this is still not true historically. Although time does not stand still, a person is trying to make his life more comfortable. This is probably why they called the terrace a platform with a roof adjacent to the house. After all, it stands on stilts, while the veranda must have a foundation.

Here are some examples of terraces in photo illustrations:

How to attach a garage to the house and what is it for

Adding to the house is a very good solution. Indeed, in this case, in the cold season, there will be no need to go out into the cold to reach it. However, even here there are pitfalls. The garage needs an ideal one that will not allow carbon monoxide to enter the home. And the fact that the car will start in the garage for sure, no one doubts. Here are some photos of garages attached to the house:

Adding a garage to the house is not an easy task, but it is quite feasible. It is only necessary to understand how capital it will be. Do I need a foundation, what will be the floor and walls. Most often, the material for such buildings is a foam block. But many, as a garage attached to the house, use several racks of timber, on which they rely. Thus, although the car is not protected from snow and rain in the wind, the roof will save it from the sun.

Examples of residential extensions to a wooden house

Attach to a wooden house as a living space or - this is perhaps the most common type of all listed. This is not surprising, because not everyone has the opportunity to buy land, build a new large and spacious one. And the construction of an additional room is possible even in a relatively small area. But here the situation is a little more complicated than with the construction of a veranda or carport. Do not forget that the building should not only be capital, but also enough so that you can live in it comfortably.

Important! When erecting such an extension, it is necessary to carefully study the soil, calculate the foundation that can support the weight of the structure, and also draw up a detailed project. Do not forget that such a capital structure must be registered with the cadastral chamber. Otherwise, you can not only lose money on fines, but also receive a notification about the demolition of an illegal building.

And yet, extensions to the country house are a good solution. After all, no one bothers to collect all the necessary papers in time. And the extra living space has never bothered anyone. In addition, it does not require too much money.

Extension to a wooden house: projects, materials and photos of possible layouts

Making an extension to the house with your own hands, although difficult, is quite possible. But this will require some knowledge. The main thing that needs to be decided before undertaking such work is what material the structure will be made of. The material can be the following:

Boards on a frame made of timber. Such a building needs a minimum foundation;
Rounded timber or logs- such a building also does not require too strong a foundation. The fact is that its lower crown will already play the role of a support. In addition, such a structure will be warmer and more durable, but at the same time more expensive;
. Here you need a very strong foundation that can support the weight of the building. Otherwise, the extension will begin to collapse in a year or two, and may not even stand for 3 months. It all depends on the soil;
- it also requires a solid foundation, perhaps even stronger than for a foam block. As a result, such extensions are very expensive.

Important! Regardless of what material it was decided to build a residential extension in the country, it needs to be firmly fixed to the house itself. Otherwise, the building will not have the necessary strength. In this case, there is a risk of collapse, and this is already life-threatening.

Let's try to deal with each of these materials.

Extension to the house from the frame: the nuances of construction, design and photo examples

An extension to the house is convenient in that it requires the least cost and is easy to do with your own hands. Moreover, there is no need to work with a large number of people - two people are enough. But still, a foundation is needed.

It is also convenient to make a frame extension to the house due to the lack of the need to hire a designer who would calculate everything. This is another budget savings item. Of course, the extension will need to be insulated very high quality, but with a huge assortment on the shelves these days, this will be quite easy to do.

The most difficult stage in such construction will be the construction of the foundation. Well, it’s much easier to assemble the frame, fix it to the wall of the house and sheathe it. Today, there are easier ways. On sale there is a special material. These are oriented strand boards. Moreover, with their help, the so-called one is made at the factory, the two sides of which are OSB, and between them is a layer of foam. Such material is quite durable and strong, in addition, it has another important advantage - it is an excellent insulation. Thus, the home master can only assemble a solid frame and sheathe it with similar material.

In such cases, the exterior finish is also important, because the durability of the frame extension to the wooden house largely depends on it. You can read about similar work in our other articles. And now we invite the dear reader to look at a few photo examples of such extensions made by home craftsmen:

An extension to a house made of timber - some installation nuances

When planning an extension, it should be understood that both its foundation and service life depend on how it is designed. After all, no one will start construction with the expectation that in a couple of years the living room will need to be demolished. Also, do not think that with the design of such buildings you can not "bother". This is not a barn or closet, which means that everything should be taken care of in advance.

Let's start with the fact that the best option (of course, with a small weight) would be a pile-screw. It will be a cheaper and not too labor intensive choice. Yes, and you can drive piles into the ground to the required depth yourself with the help of special equipment or even manually. The main task here is to calculate the load on each pile to select their number and diameter.

Important information! When constructing a pile-screw foundation, it should be understood that the supports must pass under each wall. If there is a partition in the room, then under it they are also required.

You should pay attention to the lower crown. It must be made from a more durable one. Ideally, if it is from logs. You should not think that only 3 walls are needed to install an extension from a bar to a log house - this is a delusion. 4 walls are also being built, because a joint one is also needed here. It makes sense to pay special attention to the fastening between common walls. It depends on this whether cracks will appear in this place over time.

Here are some photos of examples of such solutions:

Extension to the house of foam blocks - advantages and disadvantages

This is probably the most common option. After all, the foam block has a relatively low cost, it can provide quite good insulation (in comparison with a brick), and the installation speed is considerable. But when compared with a bar, the foam block has a big drawback - it requires a fairly strong foundation. And already pile-screws are indispensable here.

The foundation for an extension from a foam block to a wooden house is necessary. The best option here would be a grillage pile foundation. This means that the cost of the foundation automatically increases significantly.

Installation of extensions to houses made of gas silicate blocks is also quite common. But some home craftsmen do not understand the difference between them and foam blocks. Everything is pretty simple. slightly heavier and more expensive than foam concrete, but at the same time its strength is much higher. In addition, it does not require a hitch from a concrete solution (special glue is used). As a result, there are practically no seams, which contributes to greater thermal insulation, and therefore lower heating costs in the future.

Important! Regardless of what is chosen as a building material, communication systems in the future living room should be considered. After all, if this is not done, you will have to hammer holes for heating, ditch the walls for electrical wiring. Without this, there can be no talk of any living, especially comfortable.

We offer the dear reader a few examples of such buildings:

Extension to a brick house - differences from previous options

The main difference here is that no fourth wall is required. This means that three common ones are quite enough. The foundation can be either tape or columnar. Yes, and you can choose any material for construction - it all depends on the wishes and capabilities of the home master.

Coupling with the bearing wall of the house occurs with the help of. When building an extension to a house made of brick or concrete, a reinforcing hitch is also often used. The bearing wall is drilled with a puncher, while the drill should be slightly smaller in diameter than the rod for a more rigid hitch. After that, a piece of reinforcement (it should not be smooth) is driven into the drilled hole up to half, and its second part is laid into the joint of foam blocks or bricks.

Important information! You should not start building if the house is quite old. This is irrational, because the brick softens over time, which will have a bad effect on the coupling with the new structure. In addition, the drilling of the wall, as well as the new building, create an additional load on it.

It may be interesting for a respected reader to look at some of the solutions of home craftsmen:

The device of the foundation for an extension to the house and its types

The foundation is the foundation that holds the entire structure. So, you should treat his device with great responsibility. The simplest solution with a small weight of the building will be the installation of a pile-screw base. To do this, at a certain distance from each other, piles are screwed into the ground, which will carry the main load.

If the building is heavier, you will have to fill in the strip foundation. At the same time, piles also do not interfere, they will give additional strength. But the most durable of all types of foundations can be called a pile-grillage foundation. For its device, you need to dig a trench around the perimeter of future walls. After that, screw piles are already driven along this trench or wells are drilled into which the reinforcing cage is lowered and poured with concrete. This is done in such a way that their upper edge is slightly above the ground level. And the last step is to install the formwork and pour concrete. For more information on how to make a foundation for an extension to a house or for a bath, see one of our articles.

Before you pour the foundation for an extension to the house, you should decide whether the finished solution will be ordered and delivered ready-made or made independently. In the latter case, precise calculations of the components are necessary for its required strength.

How to make a roof for an extension

The simplest option would be a shed roof for an extension to the house. This option is easy to implement and requires the least cost. However, this work also has its own nuances. When compared with gable ones, the simpler ones do not retain heat so well.

When constructing a veranda, the three-slope version is often used for an extension to the house, but such work is rather complicated. If there are some skills and knowledge of carpentry, then the home master will be quite capable of it.

Important! The roof should be thought out so that snow can easily roll off it, but do not forget about safety. After all, the accumulated snowdrift can fall on a person. That is why they try to make the slope more abruptly. In this case, the accumulation of snow will be small, and its removal is not dangerous.

If the home master is not sure that he knows how to make a roof on an extension to the house, and will be able to do it, it is better to seek help from specialists.

Instructions for installing an extension to the house with your own hands

Let's try to explain in general terms all the stages of building a veranda on a site adjacent to the house. We will discuss more detailed instructions for each type of building in the following reviews. Here's how to make an extension to the house:

Illustration	Actions to take
	First of all, we start with the foundation. In our case, this is a well. A metal pipe is lowered into it, which is filled with concrete. Depth of about 1.7 m.
	The distance between the piles must be calculated. In our case, the weight of the veranda will be quite small, and therefore the distance can be made larger.
	We assemble a frame of metal beams on the piles, which will play the role of the first crown, which takes on the main load.
	Channels are welded together. In this case, the seam must be very strong.
	We also took care of communications. Draining water from the sink in the house was in this place. Well, let's deal with that.
	The holes in the channel are necessary for fastening the timber on which the entire structure will be built.
	We lay the beam around the perimeter and fasten it. You can start building the main supports and the roof.
	Having assembled the main frame from the timber, we reinforce it with transverse beams. In their role we have, 50 mm thick.
	We put the boards supporting the roof in pairs and tighten them together.
	It should look something like this. It should be noted that the boards supporting the roof also give strength to the frame. They are fixed to the main beams just with the help of tie rods.
	The roof can be covered with corrugated board. It is quite resistant to all weather conditions.
	The diagonal board plays a rather important role - it does not allow the building to heel due to the supporting beam of the frame. In our case, ordinary railings were made, but it is fashionable to sheathe or deglaze the building.
	Here, the diagonals are decorative, and therefore made of thinner boards.

In general terms, the answer to the question of how to attach an extension to the house looks like this.

The cost of services of specialists in such construction

It is unlikely that it will be possible to build an extension to the house inexpensively when contacting specialists. But for general information, it does not hurt to consider the prices for such services using the example of various verandas:

Types of verandas	Cost of work, rub. for 1m 2
open annex	from 8 000
Frame extension with insulation 50mm	from 9 000
Frame extension with insulation 100mm	from 10 500
Frame extension with insulation 150mm	from 11 500
Extension from profiled timber 90×140mm	from 10 500
Extension from profiled timber 140×140mm	from 12 500

Photos of verandas and terraces attached to the house: the work of professionals and not only

For those who still doubt that without special knowledge and skills, you can make a rather beautiful extension to the house - photo examples of verandas and terraces made by ordinary home craftsmen. Perhaps, the dear reader will find some solutions for his work. If not, then you can just enjoy. After all, it is really beautiful.

Surely many people liked the photos of the verandas attached to the house with their own hands.

Finally

It is unlikely that anyone can refuse an extra room attached to the house. But it’s one thing when this work was done by strangers, but it’s completely different if everything is done by one’s own hands. In addition, as it turned out, although it is difficult, it is quite doable. Is it worth it then to pay money to "someone else's uncle"? And it’s not a fact that the building will turn out to be of high quality and beautiful (there are enough hacks in our time). On the veranda, which was mentioned in the step-by-step instructions, it took about 10 days, along with painting. This means that for a maximum of 15-20 you can make it completely perfect. Specialists promise to do all the work in 30-60. Worth thinking...

We hope that the information presented by us today was useful to the reader. All questions (if you still have them) can be asked in the discussions for the article. Write, share your experience, because it can help someone.

Types of buildings

Before choosing an extension project with your own hands, you should decide on its functional purpose. Typically, the following types of buildings are attached to the house:

For each type of extension, it is necessary to calculate the amount of materials and draw up a plan.

Types of structures of residential extensions

There are several basic options for do-it-yourself extensions to the house:

The first option is considered not only the easiest from a technical point of view, but also the most budgetary. He assumes that the roof of the main building remains in place, only slightly lengthening by the size of the extension to the house. The main building is completed on one side or two. Then a passage is punched between them so that the total area of \u200b\u200bthe building increases by the size of the new building.

An attic-type room will be more expensive, as it is supposed to carry out an add-on.

The third option for an extension to the house with your own hands involves your own roof. The rest of the structure resembles a side structure. A separate roof increases the consumption of material, so the extension will cost more and will be built a little longer.

The extension of the second floor is carried out only if the foundation of the house allows it. If initially the building was not planned to be multi-storey, then there may be problems with its completion. The foundation may simply not withstand the additional load. In some cases, it can be strengthened.

Designing a new premises

According to the law, any functional room is considered an extension to the house with your own hands. A balcony, a loggia, a winter garden or an additional bedroom - all this will be considered an extension. The essential elements of its design are:

foundation;
walls.

Unlike the main building, there may not be floors here. Do-it-yourself constructive solutions for the roof of an extension are as follows:

The foundation of the building is recommended to be erected separately, since the structures are operated under various loads.
At the design stage, it is very important to consider the compatibility of the new building with the old one. An extension with your own hands should not create obstacles to communications that pass through the site. If you plan to make multi-level buildings, then you need to consider that this will delay the snow masses. Therefore, they should be further strengthened to avoid subsidence of the foundation.

Foundation design

With an increase in the usable area of an existing building in the horizontal direction, it is unprofitable to build a slab or strip buried foundation. The most economical base designs are:

If preference is given to a pile or column foundation, then it is necessary to perform additional protection of the lower part of the structure from freezing. For this purpose, you can use basement siding with an inner layer of insulation in the form of basalt wool or expanded polystyrene.

Wall design

When drafting an extension, you should decide in advance on the material for the walls. For frame or panel construction, a sandwich is used:

OSB sheets with a layer of expanded polystyrene or stone wool;
internal membrane for vapor barrier;
outer film for waterproofing.

The laying of lightweight blocks - aerated concrete or foam blocks - will cost a little more. If preference is given to the latter, then it should be taken into account that even walls made of the highest quality foam concrete are often covered with a network of cracks. Therefore, the facade will need to be plastered over the reinforcing mesh with a special composition.

Roof design

When designing an extension to a house with your own hands, you need to calculate the reliability of the elements of the truss system, their configuration and choose a step for their placement. If the height of the walls is the same, then the supports can be based on the existing load-bearing structures. The rafters of the lower extension to the two-story building should rest on the columns located near the walls of the main building.

Most often, the slope of the roof of the house closest to the extension is dismantled. The elements of the truss system are replaced by new ones that have a greater length.

Alternatively, you can disassemble the roofing cake, but do not dismantle the rafters. For a new building, a shed roof is being erected. You can strengthen the truss system with racks.

Some time after the construction of the house, often, there is a need to expand the usable area. The only way out of this situation is the construction of an extension to a wooden house. With proper design of the structure and the selection of appropriate materials, this event can be performed independently.

What do you need to know?

The construction of any object requires the creation of a project based on calculations. The construction of an extension to a wooden house is no exception. In this case, it is necessary to provide for such a constructive solution that would exclude the occurrence of cracks. When choosing the architectural form of the extension, one should not forget about the need to create a complex that is unified in style.

In addition, it should be understood that the construction of an extension must be agreed with the relevant organization and have all the necessary accompanying documentation. Otherwise, the constructed object will be considered a self-construction and in the future the developer will have to decide the issue of legalizing it.

Types of extensions

Before starting the construction of an extension to a wooden house, it is necessary to study the possible design options and the technological features of their construction. After analyzing the information, the choice of materials and technology of work is greatly simplified. This approach will allow you to harmoniously connect the extension with an existing building.

Canopy. This is the simplest extension design. It is necessary to protect the porch and people from sunlight and bad weather. In addition, under a canopy you can spend leisure time and receive guests.

The construction of a canopy does not necessarily require the construction of a powerful foundation. Installing pillars that play the role of supports can become a fairly solid foundation. A frame is mounted to them, and the surface of the walls is formed, depending on the taste preferences of the developer.

Wooden house may need an extension

Summer room. She, often, is equipped from an extension. The room is designed for relaxation and serves as a place for friendly feasts. As the basis of such an extension, a strip or column foundation is constructed. The material of the walls of the frame structure is plywood, boards or bricks.

In order to create better illumination, the walls are made partially glazed. The roof of the summer room can be with one or two slopes, and it is undesirable to make its structure heavier. Insulation or the creation of a heating system in such a room is impractical.

Living room. The device of a full-fledged living room implies a full construction cycle. When constructing the foundation, a block or monolithic structure is used. For the construction of walls, brick, foam blocks or timber are used. During the construction of the roof, a layer of waterproofing is necessarily arranged. The entire structure of the structure must also be well insulated.

Kitchen. Arrangement in the extension room is a rather complicated undertaking. This is due to the fact that in addition to the construction of a capital structure, all communications are required, including sewerage and ventilation.

Garage. Such a structure is being built on, on which walls of brick or blocks are located. A reliable roof is also being constructed from slate, metal tiles or corrugated board. In addition, the room must be well ventilated.

Porch. Often, when constructing various structures of outbuildings, it is necessary to build a porch. The material can be concrete, timber or metal. With a significant height of the porch or the presence of a turn, a railing is required.

Mounting Features

The device for an extension to a wooden house largely depends on how the premises are supposed to be used and whether it will be residential. If capital construction is necessary, it is necessary to build a reliable foundation, separate from the base of the main building and the wall. Communications are also required.

The main problem with building an extension is connecting it to the house. If there are omissions at this stage, then the formation of cracks on the structural elements of the structure is inevitable.

There are the following ways to connect structures:

Construction of an independent structure. The method is used in the case of construction on moving soil. The base is arranged closed along the perimeter, having no points of contact with the main foundation. The gaps between the surfaces of the walls of structures are provided with reliable hydro- and thermal insulation. The roof is arranged using a similar technology.
Integration of the extension into the main building. The implementation of this method is associated with certain difficulties. To connect the structures in the foundation of the house, anchors or pieces of reinforcing steel are mounted. Then, with the help of welding, it is connected to the frame of the base of the attached structure. At the end of this event, they begin to pour the foundation of a monolithic type. The connection of the walls of two structures becomes possible with the partial dismantling of the box of the house. To integrate roof structures, the truss system of the house is dismantled and connected to the extension. Moreover, the fastening occurs both to the rafters and to the beams of the main building. After that, the roof covering is laid so that it represents a single surface.

When building a foundation for an extension, it is necessary to take into account the type of foundation under the house. This is due to the fact that different types of foundations on the same soil give different shrinkage. To prevent this phenomenon, the same base designs should be used.

Construction of an annex

Calculation and purchase of materials

At the design stage of an extension to a wooden house, the purpose of the object, its number of storeys and design features are taken into account. This allows you to make the best choice of material and draw up a construction estimate.

The following materials can be used for its construction.

bar

The use of timber for the construction of an extension to a wooden house is the best option. Moreover, the beam can be any: glued, rounded or planed. Standardized material dimensions greatly simplify installation.

As a rule, timber is produced by specialized enterprises, each product has strictly defined dimensions, and the quality of wood meets the standards. In the factory, the material goes through all the necessary stages of protective treatment, which increases the life of the wood. If necessary, the finished product undergoes heat treatment to give the wood a certain shade. Natural wood refers to environmentally friendly materials, which has a beneficial effect on the health of people living in the house.

In addition to the qualities described, the versatility of the timber should be noted, since it can be used to create an extension not only to a wooden house.

If the cost of the timber exceeds the construction estimate, then you should pay attention to other materials.

The most difficult thing is to connect the extension to the house

Frame extension

A good option from an economic point of view is the construction of a frame structure of an annex. It is characterized by the possibility of conducting work on the existing foundation, which significantly reduces the construction time.

The technology of building an extension involves the construction of a metal frame or a wooden structure. To create the surface of the walls, the frame is sheathed on both sides using chipboard or OSB boards. Between them, a layer of thermal insulation is arranged from an available heat-insulating material. On top of the insulation, there must be a vapor and moisture barrier.

The frame structure of an extension to a wooden house is easy to install and is available for self-assembly.

Brick

When using brickwork when erecting the walls of an extension to a wooden house, you can get a capital structure. The material has good thermal insulation properties, so the extension can have both economic and residential purposes.

To preserve the integrity of the architectural style, it is recommended to move the brick outbuilding from the visibility zone. This does not exclude its location on the rear side of the building. Brickwork has a significant mass, so a reliable foundation is being built that can withstand the loads from the walls.

The cost of construction in this case increases not only due to the rise in the price of materials and additional costs for the construction of the foundation, but also due to the cost of finishing work.

Main stages of construction

Foundation installation

The base for an extension to a wooden house is selected depending on the design features of the building. If you plan to create a dwelling, then the construction is mandatory. At the same time, its depth should be the same as that of the main building. Reliable connection of two structures occurs due to reinforcement.

The course of work on the construction of the foundation takes place in the following order:

perform markup;
dig a pit or trench of the appropriate depth;
formwork is installed;
produce a bunch of reinforcing cage;
pour .

At this stage, moisture protection should be performed.

Light extension on a columnar foundation

Wall mounting

The construction of the extension walls is no different from the technology of building a house from a bar or other lumber. In this case, the resulting expansion joint must be sealed with mounting foam.

When using the same materials for the construction of an outbuilding and a house, the walls are connected using various fasteners. Dowels are made in the beam. Screws and plates are used, as well as brackets for fixing walls.

Roof installation

In the case when the height of the extension is less than the height of the wooden house, the roof is made with a significant slope. This will allow you to freely remove precipitation. In this case, the connection of both roof structures is not necessary.

When erecting a two-story warm extension, it is recommended to connect the roofs of structures. For this purpose, a partial dismantling of the roof of the main house is carried out and the ceilings are connected with metal corners. After that, waterproofing is arranged, and the roof is laid. A single drainage system must be organized.

The roof is best made from the same material as the main building.

How to cut costs?

You can reduce the cost of building an extension to a wooden house if you consider the following recommendations:

the cost of timber is lower if you purchase it in winter;
self-construction of the foundation will achieve savings of about 20%;
use improvised materials;
use the frame construction method.

Expanding the useful area of a private house with the help of an additional extension allows you to solve a lot of problems, first of all, to increase the usable area and increase the level of comfort. An extension to a wooden house is easier to formalize legally than a new building, and it can be built much cheaper than if you rebuild the entire box of the house. It is only necessary to choose the right project to make the wooden extension box one with the building box.

Features of planning an extension to a wooden house

Let the simplicity and modest size of the attached premises not be misleading. Not so simple. Experienced craftsmen recommend taking the problem of arranging an extension to a wooden house as seriously as if you had to build a real house or make another floor.

There are two "narrow" moments in the extension design:

It is necessary to properly plan and make a junction of two foundations. It is not enough to build an additional base for an extension, you also need to make it safe so that a small foundation does not cause settlement or deformation of the walls;
Choose the shape and method of attaching the extension truss system to the box of a wooden house. Depending on the chosen project, part of the roof of a wooden house will have to be dismantled in order to build one common slope or make it in a broken pattern.

It is no more difficult to build walls, cut windows, doorways, lay the floor in an extension, hang insulation and perform decorative trim, equipping a ceiling is no more difficult than when building an ordinary house.

The most interesting type of extension to the house is made with a sliding front wall. If necessary, the room can be easily transformed into a living room or made into a summer kitchen.

Extensions to a wooden house: types, purpose

Of course, building planning begins with the general idea of building an additional room. Most often, the owners decide to build a separate room, floor or even part of a wooden house in order to allocate additional living space for guests or family members, equip a recreation area, make a utility room or install additional boiler equipment.

A modern wooden house is considered a rather complex structure. After assembly, the wooden house adjusts to the foundation for a long time, the walls and crowns shrink. In order to build a strong and stable extension to a building from a bar or log, it will take at least a year of waiting.

Traditionally, the owners prefer to make an extension of:

aerated concrete blocks;
Profiled timber;
Red or silicate brick;
Sip panels or homemade wooden shields.

One of the most popular trends is the use of glass or polycarbonate panels. Double-glazed windows provide good thermal insulation, and excess sunlight makes it possible to make the extension room in the form of a closed veranda or winter garden.

Often, an extension has to be built by blocking windows in a wooden house with walls. A transparent roof or a polycarbonate wall solves the problem of shading the living space.

Frame house extension

If you want to build an additional room to a wooden house in the shortest possible time, it is best to make an extension in the form of a frame-panel structure. At first glance, the frame scheme looks very complicated: a lot of wooden racks and lintels sheathed with OSB boards, plywood and tongue and groove board. In fact, making the frame of an extension to a wooden house is not difficult even for a novice carpenter.

The wireframe has its advantages:

The light weight of the extension makes it possible to make a simple and inexpensive pile foundation instead of the traditional strip foundation. The time needed to build an additional building is reduced from two to three weeks to a few days;
The cost of building a frame extension is about half of the cost of a similar structure made of timber or aerated concrete;
The frame extension, with a small weight, has high rigidity due to the use of a large number of struts and struts;
Thanks to the use of an openwork power scheme of the frame, the attached room can be quite large, even two floors;
Even if a wooden house is equipped with a complex sloping roof, it is much easier to build a full-fledged roof for an extension and connect it to the truss system of the building than if the attached box is made of brick or foam block.

In the form of a frame extension, you can make a warmed veranda, a bathhouse and even a rest room. If a wooden house is placed on a concrete strip foundation, huge window openings can be made in the attached room, turning it into a studio or dining room.

The frame scheme of the extension is ideal for building an attic room on the second floor of a wooden house. Even if the building is built of logs, modern insulation materials provide comfortable living conditions in winter.

Ideally, the frame extension should be built on a strip concrete foundation. It may not be the cheapest way to build additional space, but using MZLF provides several tangible benefits:

Firstly, the concrete tape significantly enhances the rigidity of the frame extension. An exception may be the options when a wooden house for a number of reasons had to be made on a pile foundation;
Secondly, a rigid base will exclude the manifestation of such unpleasant phenomena as wall skew or settlement of door and window openings, even if the windows in the extension are made half a wall.

If you correctly tie the concrete tape under the extension to the base of the wooden house, then regardless of the shrinkage processes, there will never be gaps or gaps between the walls of the house and the attached building, which are typical for heavy brick and stone structures.

But there is one limitation, experts do not recommend building frame rooms on concrete strip foundations in conditions of heavily watered soils. In addition to the forces of frost heaving, which deform the base of the attached premises, the wooden frame extension, even when waterproofing is used, is quite sensitive to ground moisture.

One example of solving a similar problem in the construction of frame extensions is the joint construction of an extension and an open terrace on a foundation of a grillage or pile type.

A huge shield terrace made of larch or polymer board is installed on a foundation of screw piles, photo. The strength and rigidity of the pile foundation field is enough to build a huge frame structure on the terrace with just huge windows. The wooden walls of the house and the attached premises are covered with ventilated siding with a natural stone finish.

Extension to the house of foam blocks

Using a foam block greatly simplifies the task. The light weight of the wall block allows you to build extension boxes of various shapes and sizes. The only essential condition is the use of the most rigid foundation. Even if, before the construction of the extension, the wooden house was built on piles, the foam concrete box must be installed on the MZLF.

Due to the low rigidity of the foam concrete masonry, the attached room is usually extended along one of the walls of a wooden house. This allows you to make the extension sufficiently stable without internal lintels and walls. A wooden house due to an extension, as it were, increases in length.

Wooden and foam concrete walls need protection from rain and frost, most often with the help of external cladding made of clapboard or siding. In this case, the dimensions of the attached box are adjusted to the dimensions of the wooden house so that after laying the siding or ventilated facade, the building looks like a single monolithic building.

The foam block, easy to process and fit, makes it relatively easy to build an extension box of the most intricate shape and configuration. For example, if you can build a closed veranda on the entire wall of the house, while making part of the extension in the form of a bay window.

The construction of an extension from foam blocks on the entire wall of a wooden house is possible only if an additional concrete strip can be added to the strip foundation of the building for the attached room.

In addition, the walls of foam blocks at the level of window openings must be reinforced with a reinforcing belt made of a metal profile. The easiest way is to make a belt from a channel with metal embedded in the corners of the wooden walls of the house.

In this case, an attached building can be built even on a relatively weak foundation; the channel belt will keep the extension from tipping over or buckling walls.

Extension to a wooden house from a bar

It is technologically much more difficult to make a timber extension to a wooden house than to build an additional room from brick or aerated concrete.

First of all, the foundation, experts categorically recommend making a foundation of the same type under the extension as under the main building. If for some reason it is impossible to use the advice, then the attached timber box is best done on a pile foundation.

The second problem is the shrinkage of the wooden walls of the building. Regardless of the chosen design of the foundation and roof, the timber extension will shrink for at least another year, so it will be necessary to make expansion gaps on the walls and the roof truss system.

The easiest way is to build an additional room below the installation level of the truss system of a wooden house. In this case, the roof of the extension does not exert much pressure on the mauerlat and the upper rims of the roofing system. It is enough to make a swinging node adjoining the shed roof of the extension to the wooden wall of the house, if the node is built correctly, then the shrinkage processes of the timber walls will not affect the stability of the main box of the building.

If an extension from a bar needs to be made equal in height to the walls of a wooden house, then you will have to build a common roof for the entire structure. To do this, it will be necessary to disassemble the roofing and make a transitional part for the articulation of the truss system of a wooden house with a shed extension system.

The above method of combining the roofing of two buildings guarantees the absence of leaks, even if the shrinkage of the attached premises exceeded the calculated values. If necessary, a canopy over the entrance to the house can be made from a new common roof slope or a wooden terrace can be built. It is enough to lengthen the overhang and install additional supports, however, this can be done no earlier than the shrinkage of the walls of the extension ends.

Do-it-yourself extension to a wooden house: step by step instructions

The problem of expanding the existing housing stock is especially relevant for summer and country houses. As a rule, a cottage is bought together with a house. In the process of the first redevelopment and distribution of the usable area of the building, it becomes clear that the wooden house requires a radical reconstruction. At a minimum, you will need to attach a veranda or covered terrace for relaxation. The earlier a wooden extension is made, the cheaper the construction of a country house will be.

Preparation for construction

It is best to build an additional area on the sunny side of the building. Wooden walls do not like direct sunlight, so the surface of the wood is additionally primed with a protective varnish, Tikkurila is best. Regardless of which side of the wooden house it is planned to build an additional room, the box is reinforced with staples, vapor barrier and mineral fiber boards are laid. It is extremely necessary to insulate the extension, even if the project involves the construction of a warm extension.

Foundation laying

Following the golden rule for the construction of extensions, the foundation for the base of the attached premises must be chosen the same as for a wooden house. In this case, the attached box can be built on a columnar foundation. Such a scheme is simpler and cheaper than a tape or pile version.

If the purchased wooden cottage has problems with the shrinkage of part of the supports, then it is best to make a remote MZL foundation that will cover both the old building and the new building.

Important! In this case, the problem of joining the bases of the attached and main wooden premises is automatically solved.

In order to make a columnar foundation, you will need:

Clean the top layer of soil under the base of the extension, remove the sod, remove the grass and the remains of the roots, the surface is covered with geotextile so that weeds do not grow, covered with a layer of sand and rammed in two or three passes;
The next step is to make columnar supports, the easiest way is to build supports by casting a concrete mixture into a wooden formwork. If the site has a slope of the surface, then the supports must be connected to each other with reinforcement bundles, even without embedding it in concrete. Anchor studs, 100-150 mm high, are embedded in the supporting surface of the pillars;
Approximately four hours after pouring, it is necessary to trim the supporting surface so that all sites are located in the same strictly horizontal plane.

After the concrete has set, it is necessary to remove the wooden formwork and make waterproofing, it is best to paste over the supports with roofing material on bituminous mastic. Next, you need to build the harness and the base of the extension, which will connect the sole of the attached room with the foundation of the wooden building.

Connecting the foundation to the base of a wooden house

Strapping can be done no earlier than three days after pouring concrete. In winter, the exposure time is doubled. First you need to build a mounting plane. To do this, one beam is laid on two edge rows of columnar supports, so that they are parallel to the wooden wall of the house. Next, a support beam is sewn onto the adjacent wall of the wooden house, this must be done strictly along the horizon line.

The transverse beams of the piping of the columnar foundation will rest freely at one end on the beam sewn to the wall, the rest of the wooden piping after alignment will be fixed on the supports. In this way, it is possible to build and connect the foundations of an extension and a wooden house using a flexible ligament.

If you make a concrete strip foundation for a wooden house and an attached room, then the connection between the bases will need to be built according to the diagram below. An expansion joint is made between the concrete strips of the two foundations, into which a triple-folded glass roofing material is laid.

Installation of the floor in the annex

After finishing work with the foundation, before building the floor and load-bearing elements of the walls, it is necessary to do, as they say, “welding” the wooden parts. The foundation wood is subjected to a three-fold treatment:

The fungus, woodworms are etched with an aqueous solution of chromic, the second pass is to treat wooden structures with vitriol oil;
In the next run, the wooden beams are fired with a blowtorch or gas burner to make the pores in the wood susceptible to finishing with drying oil or oil paint;
All wooden elements of the foundation of the extension are painted with a protective compound, it is best to do the treatment with silicate protective paints.

For your information! After impregnation with organosilicon protective compounds, a wooden extension can be built even on wet marshy ground.

Before building the floor, it is necessary to measure the distance between the cross beams of the strapping in order to make the floor as strong as possible, without creaking boards and deflections. The distance between the lags should be no more than 60 cm, so the strapping beams are either diluted with intermediate beams, or oblique wooden corners are sewn on.

The next step is to do the flooring. The lower plane of the wooden strapping is lined with a tongue-and-groove board, plywood or an ordinary sawlog. Waterproofing and mineral seal mats are laid inside the box, then another layer of vapor barrier film is laid, and the future floor can be laid with a rough floorboard. As long as the board is only tacked to the base, the finished floor can be built after the walls and ceiling have been erected.

Extension windows and doors

One of the most difficult stages in the construction of an extension is associated with the construction of supporting pillars of the walls and ceiling. For the equipment of the load-bearing racks of a wooden extension, a bar with a section of 90x90 mm is used, preferably spruce or pine, but always of the first grade, without knots or signs of damage to the fibers.

Instead of an expensive bar, racks can be made from a forty board. Two edged boards are knocked down at the edges with nails and loosened into blocks on a circular saw. For each pair, you need to make sizing with carpentry glue, and then dry it under pressure. From a home-made timber, you can easily make load-bearing racks, floor beams, window and door frames without any problems.

Homemade beams are installed vertically on the strapping beam and fastened with struts. After alignment, the elements of the future frame are sewn together with beams of the upper and middle strapping. After assembling the racks, you need to make blanks for window and door openings.

Boxes can be built directly into the frame of the extension or made separately according to the size of the window frames. The door hatch is installed together with the door, reinforced with struts and side ligaments. If it is planned to use a plastic door and windows, then the transitional wooden frame can be immediately fixed to the frame using mounting foam.

Roof and its docking with the main roof

Before building the roof and walls of the extension, it is necessary to lay the beams of the ceiling. The principle of laying ceiling beams practically does not differ from the construction of lags for the floor.

Initially, the upper ceiling trim is marked for laying another layer of a wooden beam - a Mauerlat, on which it will be possible to build a roof frame. Next, in the upper harness and the Mauerlat beam, you need to make cuts or cut the grooves for laying the ceiling beam.

Depending on the size of the wooden extension, the ceiling is made of timber 70x90 mm or 90x90 mm. In places of tie-in, the floor beams are attached to the upper trim with self-tapping bolts. After assembling the ceiling, it is necessary to lay the Mauerlat beams, after combining the sawn grooves with the protrusions of the ceiling beams, it is nailed to the upper strapping of the wooden frame of the extension.

Before building a roof truss frame, experts recommend hemming the ceiling with a grooved board, you can use OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood, 15-18 mm thick. Ceiling filing will give the opportunity to work freely and move around the ceiling.

Common roof rafters

In order to build a common roof truss system for a wooden house and an extension, it will be necessary to disassemble and remove the roofing of the adjacent slope. If an attic room is built on the second floor of the cottage, then the lower part of the rafters will need to be removed. So that the frame of the attic room does not deform, it is necessary to make several struts or stops to compensate for the pressure on the attic of the roofing pie from the opposite side.

In order to build a new slope, it is enough to replace the old rafters with new, longer and heavier ones. The upper end of the rafters rests on the auxiliary ridge bar of the attic, with the lower cut they stand on the Mauerlat of the upper trim of the extension.

To compensate for the weight of the heavier new rafters, an additional brace-reinforced support must be built under each beam. Next, a crate, cornice and wind slats are stuffed onto the rafters. If the attic is planned to be built in an insulated version, it will be necessary to build a counter-lattice and ventilation of the roofing pie.

Roof finishing and insulation

The main difficulty faced in the process of restoring or laying a new roofing is the limited access to insulating and insulating materials of the upper roof slope. In order to build reliable insulation and waterproofing of the roof, without cold bridges and lines of condensate leakage, it is necessary to connect the vapor barrier membranes of the upper and lower roof slopes very tightly and with high quality.

This is not easy to do. To build a single protection, it is necessary to lift the bottom row of slate or metal tiles in order to run the film under the roofing and securely glue it to the top layer of the film material.

The rest of the roll of waterproofing and vapor barrier film is rolled down the slope and fixed with the slats of the counter-lattice. The heater returns to its place. To prevent the redistribution of condensate from warmer layers to colder parts of the roof, the roof insulation must be built from the same material. If it is not possible to build up the enlarged plane of the new slope with a material identical to the old insulation, then it is better to replace the fiber boards throughout the roof with new mats.

To build the first row of roofing on the line of joining the slopes, it is necessary to make a transition node. Usually it is a wooden plank cut with a wedge or a bar stuffed along the edge of the upper slope. This must be done, since the angle of inclination of the new slope, under which the extension and part of the wooden house fit, has become smaller, which means that part of the rainwater can penetrate through the junction line. To avoid leakage, the joint line is glued with polyurethane foam and bituminous mastic.

Construction and wall insulation

After the roof and ceiling have been assembled, waterproofing and insulation have been laid, it is necessary to build the insulation of the walls and floor of the wooden extension. Initially, you need to check how much the geometry of the walls has changed, window and door openings have deformed under load from the weight of the truss system, insulation and ceiling. In places where the formed cracks and gaps are visible to the naked eye, it will be necessary to tighten and align the racks so that they return to their original place, this can be done with an ordinary heavy hammer and mount.

After leveling the places where the gaps have formed, they are reinforced with metal plates, if the vertical stand has led, then two additional horizontal struts will need to be made. The walls of the wooden extension are reinforced with horizontal and side braces at the installation sites of window frames and doors.

Further, the outer surface of the extension frame is sewn up with a rail, if it is supposed to be made into a siding, then the bar can be filled in increments of 1.5 cm, in other cases the surface is clogged solid. The next step is to build the insulation of the room, most often fiber mineral thermal insulation is placed in the windows-niches of wooden walls, which is glued with adhesive tape and blown with foam. A vapor barrier is laid on top of the basalt fiber.

The inside of the wall upholstery can be made of wooden slats, but most often OSB boards or plywood are used in extensions, but walls can just as well be lined with drywall or MDF panels.

To insulate the floor, you can use cheaper expanded clay backfill, the material is quite strong and durable, on its basis you can build an ideally warm base of a wooden extension. Its only drawback is the strong absorption of water, if the extension room is heated intermittently for several days, then in a month the expanded clay will become wet from condensate, and it will be extremely difficult to dry it.

Some legal points

One of the reasons why the owners decide to build an additional room to a wooden house is a common misconception that light wooden extensions are not subject to registration with state authorities.

In fact, the situation is ambiguous. On the one hand, the Town Planning Code states that only small structures and details of capital buildings that do not affect communications, characteristics, fire safety and load-bearing elements of the structure are classified as non-permanent buildings. These include canopies, canopies, balconies and porch groups built on the same foundation with a capital house.

It is difficult to build an ordinary extension to a wooden house so that it looks like a balcony or a porch. The only exception is an extension in the form of a porch group or a covered veranda. It is enough to declare such an extension as an explicit character. To do this, an application is submitted to the BTI to amend the passport of a wooden house. In fact, a decision will be made, on the basis of which it is possible to re-register the documents.

For all other options for an extension to a wooden house, regardless of the size, material and foundation scheme, before starting work, it will be necessary to issue a building permit, provide a package of documents and pay a fee. All that remains is to build an extension and sign an acceptance certificate at the inspection.

The package of documents includes:

cadastral plan,
Passport for a wooden house;
Site plan;
Copies of documents of the owner;
Extension project.

After coordination with the supervisory authorities and a positive decision of the commission, it will be possible to register the property and make changes to the technical passport.

Conclusion

You can build an additional room to a wooden house without permission. If all the norms of SNiPs for the construction of extensions are observed, then it is possible to register an unauthorized construction by a court decision. As a rule, objects with a readiness of more than 60% that do not pose a threat to the population and the environment receive a positive decision. This is not a quick and expensive business, sometimes it is easier and cheaper to build a wooden extension than to register it.

Over time, some private buildings require expansion for various reasons. For example, an increase in the number of people sitting, sewerage into the house, or the need to close the front door from direct cold. Therefore, there is a need for an additional room, expanding the kitchen, arranging a room for a bathroom, or simply building a veranda.

An extension to the house with your own hands can be made of wood, brick, or in a combined version, which includes several building materials.

Requirements for premises

In order not to have to make additional changes in the attached room, it is better to immediately think through all the nuances of the extension, since each of them requires a special approach.

Extra room

If you want to add another living room to the house, you will have to try, since this work is almost tantamount to building a small house. The floors, walls and ceiling of the building must be well insulated, otherwise the heating provided to it will not be effective - this is one of the main conditions for a dwelling. The second important condition for normal living is the absence of dampness in the room, which means that reliable waterproofing is needed.

Kitchen or bathroom

When arranging these premises, before installing the foundation, engineering communications are brought to the construction site - in particular, sewer pipes. You may have to separately conduct and plumbing.

In addition, it is also worth paying attention to the insulation of all elements of the structure, to think about reliable waterproofing of the floor.

Veranda

A veranda is a light structure that serves mainly to protect the main entrance to the house from wind and rain, or is used for summer holidays. It can be closed, have a door and one or more windows, and may be and completely open, that is, it is a flooring, low walls and a roof raised on pillars.

This building does not require special insulation, but you still have to carry out waterproofing for the foundation.

Foundation for an extension

The foundation for an extension can be tape, lined with brick or stone blocks, or columnar. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. To stop at one of them, you need to find out how each design is arranged, and choose the one that is more suitable for a particular extension.

Information about the construction of the foundation

Strip foundation

So, the strip foundation is arranged in the following sequence:

First you need to mark up and trace the place where the extension will be placed. This is done with a rope that is stretched across the terrain and secured with pegs.

Further along the markup, a trench is dug to the same depth as the foundation of his house is built. It would be nice to fix the reinforcement connecting the foundations of the main building and the extension before pouring concrete.
The width of the trench should be 100–150 mm greater than the planned wall thickness.
After the trench has been dug, it is further prepared. First, backfilling at the bottom of a sand cushion with a thickness of 100–120 mm is carried out. It must be carefully tamped.
The next layer is covered with crushed stone or broken brick, which is also compacted with a manual rammer.
Further, along the entire perimeter, waterproofing is laid in the trench, which should extend to the soil surface by 40–50 cm, since it should cover not only the inner part of the foundation, but also the formwork for its above-ground part.
A welded reinforcing structure is installed on the waterproofing film, which must repeat the shape of the foundation, and to its entire height.
Then the reinforcement is poured with a rough concrete mortar of cement and gravel, to ⅓ of the height of the trench, and after this layer has hardened, the next one is poured - to one second of the remaining height.

Installation of formwork for strip foundation

After pouring this layer, you can start building a wooden formwork to form the above-ground part of the foundation - the basement. The waterproofing film is left inside the formwork, straightened along its walls and fixed on top of them so that it does not slip into concrete.
Concrete is poured into the prepared formwork to the top. Then the solution is pierced in several places with a shovel so that no air cavities remain inside it. You can lightly tap on the formwork - this vibration will help the concrete to compact as much as possible.

After completing the pouring of the foundation, the concrete is leveled to the required level and left to dry, sprayed daily with water to harden.
After the final hardening of the concrete, the formwork is removed and the foundation is waterproofed from the outside.
Before starting the construction of walls, it is recommended to additionally cover the foundation with waterproofing compounds or roll materials. For this process, liquid rubber, tar, bituminous mastic and roofing material are used.

The space inside the strip foundation can also be equipped in different ways - with a concrete screed or flooring from floor beams and a log with a wooden floor on them.

Video - building an extension to a house on a strip foundation

Column Foundation

In addition to the strip foundation, a columnar foundation can be arranged, which is built from brick or concrete, as well as a combination of these materials. Basically, this option is used for the construction of verandas or additional living rooms, since communications associated with water supply or sanitation in an uninsulated or even open underground will require additional thermal insulation.

A columnar foundation is most often arranged if it is planned to mount a boardwalk.

The work is carried out in several stages:

The first step is marking the site selected for the extension. The pillars should be at a distance of one and a half meters from each other.

Pit pits are dug for each pillar separately. Their depth should be 500-600 mm, with a square side of 500 × 500 mm. To the top of the pit should expand somewhat - by about 100 mm on each side.

Installation diagram of the foundation pillar

Next, the bottom is strengthened in the same way as when constructing a strip foundation, using sand and gravel, waterproofing is laid.
If the pillars will be built of brick, it is recommended to lay a layer of coarse cement mortar on the bottom. Only after waiting for it to harden, they make brickwork.
If the pillars are concrete, a reinforcing structure and formwork are installed at the bottom of the pits to the height of the future pillar. The waterproofing film is allowed inside the formwork and fixed on top of it;
Concrete is poured into the formwork in layers. Each layer must set well before the next is poured;
The top of the column is well leveled and sprinkled daily with water until completely solidified;
After the pillars are ready, the formwork is removed from them and they waterproofed roofing material, which is glued to heated bituminous mastic.
In the gap remaining between the soil and the pillars, backfilling is done, tamping every 100-150 mm of the backfilled soil mixed with crushed stone.
Several layers of roofing material are laid on each of the pillars - it is necessary for waterproofing the wooden bars that will be laid on top of the pillars.

Extension floor base device

If a strip foundation is chosen, both a wooden and a concrete floor can be arranged on it. A columnar foundation without lintels suggests a wooden floor.

Concrete floor

To make a reliable and warm floor screed inside the strip foundation, you need do work step by step, adhering to a certain technology.

To begin with, excess soil is selected inside the finished strip foundation. It is first loosened and then removed to a depth of approximately 250-350 mm.
At the bottom of the resulting pit, a sandy ten-centimeter pillow is poured and compacted. Crushed stone can be laid on top of it, but instead of crushed stone, expanded clay is used to insulate the screed, poured in a layer of 15–20 cm.

Expanded clay is leveled, and a reinforcing grate is laid on it. After its installation, a beacon system is arranged from above along the selected horizontal level. Some rooms, for example, a bathroom or an open terrace, may also require a certain slope of the surface for unhindered flow of water that has fallen on the floor to the drainage system.
Next, a cement mortar is laid out on the prepared surface and leveled using the rule. A day later, it can be covered with plastic wrap - then the concrete will mature more evenly, which will give it additional strength.

When the walls of the extension are erected, any decorative coating or a wooden floor can be laid on the resulting concrete base.

Floor on wooden beams

Floor beams are wooden bars of a sufficiently large thickness, about 150 × 100 mm in cross section. You can’t save on them, since the overall strength of the floor will depend on their reliability.

The beams are laid on poles or strip foundations, on top of the made roofing felt substrate, and can be fixed to concrete in various ways - using through fasteners, corners and other metal devices. Between themselves, the beams at the intersections are also fastened with powerful corners.

They will hold securely, as the wooden flooring of the "black" and "white" floor also serves as a kind of binding fastener.

Video: erection of a frame extension with a wooden floor

Construction of extension walls

Brick or frame walls can be built on a ready-made strip foundation, while a columnar one is mainly used for frame buildings. If it is planned to make brickwork on the pillars, then additional concrete lintels will have to be made between the pillars.

Frame walls

The frame for future walls is erected from a bar and fixed to the crown beams of the ceiling that were mounted earlier. The beams can be attached to the beams separately, but sometimes it is much more convenient to assemble the wall elements in a horizontal position, on a flat area, and then install them in a vertical position already assembled.

To connect the frame to the wall of the house, perfectly accurate vertical markings are made on it, along which a separate bar or assembled frame element will be fixed.

For reliability, all the bars are interconnected by metal corners.

Having installed the entire frame of the extension, it is better to immediately sheathe it with boards or plywood (OSB) from the outside. Sheathing will immediately make the structure stiffer.

The upper horizontal beam, running along the house, is attached to the main wall using reliable metal corners or anchors.
The walls are insulated after the roof is installed.

Video: another example of building a light extension to the house

brick walls

Before you start building brick walls, you need to carefully check the horizontalness of the foundation surface and, if necessary, align it to the ideal. If the base is uneven, then the masonry may crack from deformation during shrinkage.
It should be noted that brick extensions are best done to also a brick house. To connect the extension with the main wall, during the construction of the walls, holes are drilled two-thirds of the depth, through every two to three rows of masonry. Reinforcement is embedded in them, which should protrude from the wall by about half a meter. It should be in the seams of the future masonry. So that the seams on these rows are not excessively wide, the reinforcement should not be chosen too thick, or it will be necessary to make a recess in the bricks of the row on which the reinforcement will be laid.
If a brick extension is arranged against a wooden wall, then a hole is drilled through it, into which reinforcement with a transverse stopper is installed from inside the house, which will hold it in the wall. Reinforcement is also installed as the wall is erected, every two or three rows.

Before starting laying, a twine is stretched along the future wall, along which it will be easy to control the horizontal rows, and the verticality is constantly verified with a plumb line.
The thickness of the walls will depend on what function the extension will perform. If this is a living room, then laying should be done, at least one or two bricks. If the room will play the role of a veranda or utility room, then half-brick laying will be enough.
Having built brick walls, they are tied around the top with a concrete belt. Formwork is made for it, a reinforcing structure is laid in it and poured with concrete mortar. After the solution has completely solidified, the formwork is removed from the belt, and you can proceed to the flooring device.

It should be noted that building brick walls is not as easy as it seems, therefore, if there is no experience in this work, it is better to entrust this process to a qualified bricklayer or choose a different type of wall.

Covering the extension and roofing

After the walls are erected, it is necessary to make a ceiling. For it you will need bars - beams, which are installed on the upper part of the walls, at a distance of 60-70 cm from each other, and fixed with special corners.

If the beams are laid on a brick building, they can be embedded in a concrete belt, after wrapping the edge of each of them with roofing material.

The next step is the filing of the beams with boards or thick plywood, on which a heater will be laid on top, between the beams.

The roof of the extension can have different designs, but basically a shed option is chosen, which is worth considering.

This design consists of rafters on which the roof is laid. This type of roof is arranged quite simply, the main thing is to choose the right slope angle. It must be at least 25 — 30 degrees - this is necessary so that precipitation does not linger on the surface in winter, otherwise they can simply damage it.
Having determined the slope angle, a mark is made on the wall or front part of the roof in the form of a horizontal flat line, along which the bar supporting the rafters in the upper part will be attached. The lower support for them will be the previously laid floor beams or the edge of the wall. The rafters must extend beyond the boundaries of the constructed walls by 250 — 300 mm, in order to protect the walls from rainwater as much as possible.
The rafters are also fixed with the help of metal corners.
It will be more difficult to solve the issue of the slope of the roof if the extension is installed on the side from which the slope of the main building of the house is arranged, since there will simply be nothing to fix the cross beam there. Therefore, you may have to remove several lower rows (sheets) of roofing material from the roof of the house in order to use its beams to secure the truss system and unify the overall coverage.
It is necessary to decide in advance which roof will be laid on top of the truss system. If it is a soft roof or flexible tiles, then solid material is laid and fixed on top of the rafters, for example, plywood or frequent transverse lathing.
If large canvases are fixed (roofing iron, metal tiles, slate, etc.), then they can be overlapped with directly installed rafters.
When the system under the covering material is ready, it is recommended to lay waterproofing on it. In the first case, plywood is covered with it, in the second, it is fixed to the rafters.
Roofing material is laid on top of the waterproofing material, starting from the bottom of the truss system and rising up. If it is necessary to combine the roof, then when docking, the top row of the roof of the extension is slipped under the last row of the roof slope of the main structure.
If the roof adjoins the upper part of the roof to the wall or the frontal part of the roof, then the joint between them must be waterproofed.
When the roof over the erected extension is ready, you can begin to insulate the walls and floor.

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metal tile

Insulation of the extension from the inside

If the room is residential, then reliable thermal insulation is indispensable. If the ceiling is already sheathed and insulated, then you can proceed to the insulation of the floor.

Floor insulation on beams

If floor beams were installed on a columnar foundation for the floor, then the work proceeds as follows:

Transverse logs from smaller bars are fixed to the floor beams.
It is recommended to arrange a draft floor on the logs, in this case it is better to lay the boards for it with a continuous flooring, otherwise the heat from the house will be blown out.

Further, the entire rough coating is smeared with a sufficiently thick clay solution, and after drying, a vapor barrier film is laid on it.
Mineral wool is tightly laid between the logs, expanded clay or slag is poured.

From above, the insulation is again closed with a vapor barrier, and a wooden floor is laid on it from boards or plywood.
A decorative coating can be immediately laid on the plywood, or an infrared film floor can be arranged under it.

Concrete floor

The concrete floor can be insulated as follows:

Mineral wool laid between logs fixed to a concrete base and then covered with boards or plywood.
One of the "warm floor" systems (electric or water), which fits into the final leveling screed;
Infrared film laid on a thin thermal reflective substrate, and closed with a decorative coating;
dry screed and gypsum fiber plates.

When the floors are insulated, you can proceed to the thermal insulation of the walls.

Frame walls

Mineral wool produced in mats is used for internal wall insulation. It is convenient to lay them between the bars of the frame. This work is simple and is done quickly enough.
When the walls are covered with insulation, it is tightened with a vapor barrier film, fixing it on the bars with brackets.
Then the wall can be covered with natural wooden clapboard, OSB boards or plywood, drywall or GVL - there are a lot of options, there are plenty to choose from.

Expanded polystyrene can also be used as a wall insulation, but its environmental and operational qualities are much worse than those of high-quality mineral wool.

brick walls

Brick walls are usually finished with plaster or drywall from the inside, and insulation is carried out from the outside, but they do it differently.

Insulation, if space permits, can be carried out in the same way as in a frame building, fixing bars on the walls and laying mineral wool between them, and then closing the structure with plasterboard slabs. Wallpaper or any other decorative material can be glued to this coating.

To do everything right, you need to study in detail each stage of the construction of the extension and adhere to the developed technologies. If there is no confidence in one's abilities, there is a clear lack of skills and experience in construction, it is better to entrust this rather difficult work to qualified craftsmen.