Flowering plants in the house are a great opportunity to create a favorable cozy atmosphere and fill the air with amazing aromas. The home lily in a pot is not currently surprising with its presence, since special varieties of this plant have been bred that are adapted to indoor conditions. First of all, these are oriental and Asian hybrids, which give very few children and can grow without a transplant in the same pot for several years. Growing indoor lilies in a pot is not as difficult as it might seem. It is possible to regulate the flowering period and get beautiful large buds for any special occasion. To do this, you just need to choose the right time for planting and provide the required conditions for growth.
A lily in a pot can reach a height of up to 1.5 meters, and can grow small. compact bush. To regulate the height of the stem, you need to select varieties. Well, and accordingly, the pot for the lily must comply with the required agrotechnical conditions. The higher your future flower, the greater the height and diameter of the lily pot should be. So, with a stem height of 1.5 meters, the container should have a wall height of 35 - 40 cm. The volume of the seat for the 1st bulb is 16 cm2. Thus, in a pot with a diameter of 40 cm, 3-4 bulbs can be planted. Single plantings in separate pots are not advisable, since lilies large space the lands around the bulb begin to actively produce babies, and flowering does not occur until the entire space is filled. This may take years.

Getting ready to grow lily flowers in pots at home: photos of plants and the subtleties of preparation

Look carefully at the various photos of potted lilies, the amazing beauty of these flowering plants fascinates and fascinates. If the decision to plant them is made, then we are preparing to grow lily flowers in pots. The subtleties of preparing for growing a lily at home in a pot include a few secrets:

1. right choice planting material- the bulbs must be strong and weigh at least 40 grams;
2. decide on varieties - preference is given to oriental, dwarf, Asian, royal and long-flowered species;
3. stratify the bulbs in the refrigerator for 15 - 20 days - the temperature should be about 5 degrees Celsius;
4. before planting, soak the bulbs first for 2 hours in a solution of potassium permanganate;
5. then for 12 hours in a solution of nutrient fertilizers and a growth stimulator.

A lily flower in a pot can be grown without replanting bulbs for 2 to 3 years. For this, it is necessary to provide optimal conditions for overwintering plants. In no case should containers with planting material be taken out to the balcony in winter time. Unprepared bulbs may freeze. How to store after flowering and what to do to get abundant budding for the next season, we will tell further. In the meantime, we offer a few more colorful photos of lilies in pots on the balcony and windowsill:

How to plant a lily in a pot?

In order for something to begin to grow and develop, it is necessary to provide conditions for the growth of roots and nutrition. Planting a lily in a pot includes a choice suitable soil. It can be soddy land in a mixture in equal proportions with humus or compost. When self-forming the soil mixture, do not forget about the addition of complex mineral fertilizers. As a rule, 50 gr. is taken for each liter of soil. mixtures in equal proportions of nitrogen, potassium, magnesium and phosphorus. Can be purchased ready soil for lilies in the store. But before use, it must be disinfected. To do this, pour enough filled pots with boiling water with the addition of fungicides and potassium permanganate.
You can plant a lily in a pot at any time of the year. To obtain crops for summer decoration of balconies, it is necessary to plant bulbs no later than the second decade of March. In this case, flowering will be provided in the second half of May. For later budding dates, it is necessary to repeat plantings with an interval of 2 weeks. To get flowers by December, you need to plant a lily in a pot at the end of September and provide additional lighting immediately after the sprouts appear.
And now we will analyze in detail how to plant a lily in a pot at home:

• drainage is placed at the bottom of the tank in the form of sea and river pebbles or expanded clay, you can also use pieces of foam and broken bricks, a layer of up to 5 cm;
• then 10 cm of fertile soil is poured;
• the bulbs are laid out with their tops up, the bottoms are slightly pressed to the ground;
• 15 - 20 cm of fertile land is poured on top;
• watering warm water so that the soil is evenly moistened.

Before planting lilies, decide on the capacity and height of the sides of the pot. Considering the recommendations above, calculate these parameters in such a way that after planting there is about 7 cm of space left to the top edge of the pot. Because after germination and the start of growth, it will be necessary to add soil, since lilies give additional roots in the process of their development.

The subtleties of growing a domestic lily in a pot and caring for plants

Get rich and long flowering is possible only if all agrotechnical requirements are met. Growing lilies in pots fascinating process, in which there is nothing complicated. Enough to provide a complete proper care for lilies in pots, carry out regular watering and fertilizing with a balanced composition of mineral and organic fertilizers.
Let's figure out how to care for a lily in a pot. So, the landing was carried out correctly and successfully, now you need to wait for the sprouts to appear. For this period, a low temperature should be provided and watering should be carried out as the earthen coma dries up. This is about 1 time in 3 days.
In principle, a home lily in a pot does not require much care. After shoots appear, the first top dressing is carried out with a solution of organic fertilizers. After 7 days, re-feeding is carried out using a phosphorus-potassium composition. It is desirable at the time of initial growth to spray the sprouts with solutions with the addition of a growth stimulator. This is done about 2 times a week. This technique stimulates the laying of flower buds and ensures the development of large colorful buds.
After the sprouts reach a height of 10 cm, the earth is topped up to the top edge of the pot. Then, caring for a home lily in a pot comes down to regular loosening of the soil to a depth of 5 cm to ensure fresh air flow to the root system. Watering is carried out daily. Top dressing with mineral and organic complexes for flowering plants at least 1 time per week. At the age of 1 month, a lily in a pot can be taken out into the open air. But this must be done with preliminary hardening. Take out on the first day for 30 minutes, on the second - for 1 hour, on the third for 2 hours. And so gradually bring the period of stay in the fresh air to 10 hours. Exposure to nighttime temperatures below 10 degrees Celsius should be avoided. This slows down the process of laying flower buds.
Until the buds open, caring for a home lily in a pot can be supplemented by daily spraying of the foliage. This ensures faster growth and development. Outdoors, one rule must be observed. During spraying and until the moisture dries, the leaves should not be exposed to direct sunlight. Otherwise it will cause sunburn. After blooming flowers when spraying, avoid getting water on the petals. Moisture shortens the flowering period.

If there are a lot of buds and they are heavy, then it is necessary to install support structures that will support the stem.
See photos of potted lilies that you can successfully grow at home with the effort and advice given above.

How to grow and transplant oriental lilies in a pot?

Recently, specialized stores sell oriental lilies in a pot in an already flowering state. How to preserve this beauty and continue the vegetative development of plants at home. First of all, you should know that caring for an oriental lily in a pot during its flowering period includes mandatory abundant watering and fertilizing with mineral fertilizers. Spray the foliage at least once a day. This will maximize the flowering period.
You also need to know how to transplant a lily in a pot after the end of the flowering period.

To do this, after falling off all the buds, wait until the moment when all the stems turn yellow and dry. Under no circumstances should you cut them. At this time, it is necessary to reduce watering to 1 time per week. Each watering is combined with abundant fertilizing with mineral and organic fertilizers. Foliar spraying is completely stopped. It is important for us at this moment that all the nutrients accumulated in the foliage and stems pass into the bulbs and powerful flower buds are laid there for the next vegetative season.
After the aerial part is completely dry, watering stops completely and after 2 weeks it is time to dig up the lily bulbs. It is not worth leaving in the same land, because it is already depleted and will not allow the bulbs to fully develop root system next year.

We take out the earthen ball from the pot and carefully disassemble it, taking out the bulbs. Children are best immediately planted in a separate container for growing planting bulbs. Wash large onions under warm running water and cut off the shoot at a height of up to 5 cm from the bulb. Then we put it in a container and fill it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes. Take out and dry in fresh air for 2 hours. In the meantime, prepare the moss or sawdust, slightly moistening them and transferring them to a plastic bag. There, mixing with sawdust, add the onions. All this is placed in the refrigerator or basement. So the bulbs are stored until the next planting.
Now you know how to grow a lily in a pot at home and have the knowledge of how to properly transplant bulbs. Check out some more photos of lilies in pots:

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Indoor lily: features of care at home

Almost everyone is widely known for such a plant as potted lily, home care for which usually does not cause great difficulties. There are many varieties of lilies that you can grow at home. And each plant is distinguished by its unique appearance of both leaves and flowers (Figure 1).

Figure 1. Each type of lily has a different type of flowers, but they are all very graceful and beautiful.

In order for lilies to bloom as often as possible, you need to learn how to properly care for them. Usually they are propagated by bulbs, which causes a certain fear in some people, because the bulb can quickly rot if excess moisture is allowed in the soil. But this fear is false.

Indoor lilies in pots can be both bulbous and ordinary root plants. Bulb varieties are much more common. And even despite this, the care of all varieties of domestic lilies is approximately the same. You just need to follow some very simple rules.

Lily container selection

Before planting a lily, it is important to choose the right pot for it.

First of all, you need to choose the right container for the flower. This is especially true for bulbous varieties. They can reach up to 1.5 m in height. And the higher it gets mature plant, the deeper the pot for it should be picked up in advance. How often the lily will bloom will depend on this.

If it is assumed that the height of the plant will be about 1.5 m, then you need a pot with a depth of about 40 cm. So the roots will be quite spacious in it, while the lily itself will be firmly fixed in the ground, which is very important at first after transplantation.

You also need to correctly determine the width of the pot. So, if you plan to grow one plant in one container, it is recommended to use a fairly narrow pot (about 20 cm in diameter). Otherwise, the plant will constantly release babies, thereby trying to fill free place in the ground.

You can also make a very interesting composition from bulbous lilies by planting 3-4 plants in one pot. At the same time, it is important to keep a distance of about 5-7 cm between them. So the land will not be free for the growth of children, and as a result, such a “bouquet” will look quite beautiful. After all, during the flowering period, lilies release several buds at once.

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How to plant a plant

Before planting, it is useful to hold lily bulbs in a solution of potassium permanganate.

You should also be no less serious about planting bulbs and transplanting already adult lilies into new pots. These flowers love a mixture of light nutrient soil with a bit of sand. It is quite possible to buy the substrate in the store ready-made.

If you plan to plant bulbs, then you should first hold them for 2 weeks in the refrigerator at a temperature of about + 5 ° C, and then 2 hours in a solution of potassium permanganate to kill all pathogenic bacteria. This is a kind of prevention for the plant.

If an adult plant is transplanted, then first you need to cut dry flowers (it is absolutely not recommended to touch lilies during the period of active flowering), separate the children if desired and inspect the bulb for diseases. If everything is fine, you can transplant the flower into a new substrate. Experts advise transplanting adult lilies no more than once every three years.

To grow lilies in pots, you need to do good drainage a layer of about 3 cm. This will protect the soil from oversaturation with water, which can have a detrimental effect on the bulb. On top of the drainage, you need to pour the main soil with a layer of about 5 cm, and then plant the bulb. Then again sprinkle everything with earth, lightly tamping it at the same time, to the very edge of the pot. This method of planting applies to both young bulbs that have not yet sprouted, and adult lilies that already have stems.

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Watering, temperature and top dressing

Lilies love Fresh air therefore, it is recommended to ventilate the room with the flower.

Proper watering and temperature conditions are the main conditions for growing a healthy plant. Indoor lilies perfectly tolerate temperature fluctuations. But it is important not to allow the temperature in the room to change to below 16 ° C and above 30 ° C.

Home lily just loves fresh air. For this reason, it is useful to take indoor lilies to a balcony or loggia in the warm season. And best of all - in the yard, if it is a private house. But if there are no such opportunities, it is recommended to open windows and vents more often. Just put the plant should be away so that it does not catch a cold from the draft.

Lily responds well to bright diffused light. But you can’t keep the plant in direct sun, as this can lead to leaf burns. This is especially true of the southern windows, where it is always very hot and there is a lot of sun. But even full shade will not do anything good for the growth and flowering of lilies.

In hot summers, lilies in pots are very fond of moisture. Therefore, they need to be watered often - at least once every 3 days. It is very important not to allow the complete drying of earthen food. From this, the bulb may begin to deteriorate. In winter, it is necessary to water the plant more moderately. It is best to check the soil in the pot before pouring another batch of water.

Successful cultivation of lilies at home includes timely top dressing.

And the plant should be fertilized already in the first days after the germination of the bulb. It is recommended to start with drugs with a high content organic matter. After two weeks, feed the lily with potassium-phosphorus fertilizer.

As soon as the lily blooms, you will need to apply special liquid fertilizers for flowering plants every two weeks. indoor plants. At the same time, it is also recommended to do foliar top dressing by spraying still unblown buds with a nutrient diluted in the right proportions from a spray bottle.

So, when growing a room lily, which is easy to care for at home if you follow the recommendations described above, it is very important to cut off the first buds. This will further contribute to the formation of a strong plant, which will surely please with numerous beautiful flowers next year. But this applies only to young lilies. In all other cases, during the flowering period, you just need to provide the plant with peace so that it does not drop the buds, try not to transfer it to other places in the apartment or house.

Proper care of a home lily will allow you to get an original living decoration for living rooms or winter gardens.

Not the last place among home flowers is occupied by a lily. The plant, with bright greenery, beautiful voluminous flowers and a delicate aroma, cannot leave lovers of indoor plants indifferent. Despite the fact that the lily has a short flowering period, it is with pleasure propagated at home. Because it perfectly decorates the interior and is a collector's item for many flower growers.

Planting lily bulbs in spring in a pot

Proper planting of bulbs ensures full flowering

• According to experienced flower growers, it is better to choose early autumn for planting - the first days of September.
• But you can carry out this manipulation in the spring.
• These periods make it possible for the plant to take root well and sprout.
• Start spring planting as early as possible - as soon as the first shoots appear. Young stems are very fragile and brittle, which can create a problem for further flower growth.
• Pre-purchased bulbs should be stored in cool place, constantly adding wet moss or sawdust, sand or earth

Before sowing bulb material:

1. We carefully reject and remove infected, rotten specimens
2. We clean from unnecessary scales
3. Trim off dead roots
4. Shortening too long measles system
5. We send for half an hour to a solution of 0.2% fundozol or treat it with an insecticide

• Planted in a pot with light ground and of course with drainage.
• Planting depth - 2-3 times higher than the planted material (from the top of the bulb to the ground)
• The operation is performed carefully so as not to damage the bulb and root system.
• After planting, we thoroughly mulch with peat or humus

Video: Lilies: sprouting bulbs in spring in pots

How to water a lily in a pot?

Watering a pot lily

1. Water very carefully: over the neck of the planter or using the bottom watering method
2. If there is water in the pan, pour it out. Lilies do not tolerate waterlogging
3. Watering is carried out after complete drying of the topsoil very moderately.
4. When flowering ends - water rarely and little (2-3 months). The earth must remain semi-dry
5. Let the water stand for a day before watering.

Lily has faded in a pot: what to do next?

Lily care after flowering

Eucharis rarely releases its flowers. But at proper storage plants, during the rest period, you can increase the period and number of times of flowering.

For this:

1. Send the lily to a dry, cool place
2. Make watering and fertilizing minimal - when the top layer of the earth is completely dry
3. If the earth has not changed for a long time, change the soil by adding ash to it

How to feed lilies after flowering?

Feeding eucharis is carried out not only in the spring and summer, but also in the fall, when the plant no longer blooms. During sleep, the flower is stored useful substances for the future. From proper feeding depends on the duration and frequency of flowering.

Important: In the first month and a half of the rest of the flower, top dressing is not carried out. Only after the first offspring appear we give food.

• feed phosphorus- potash fertilizers: potassium magnesia or superphosphate
• To do this, dissolve 1.5 tbsp. l. potassium magnesia or 2 tbsp. superphosphate in a bucket of water

Video: Eucharis. What kills eucharis? How to care for the Amazon Lily so that it blooms?

Why doesn't the house lily bloom?

There can be several reasons for this problem:

1. Rest time not taken. If a flower was watered abundantly within 1.5 months after flowering, it did not have a dormant stage. He did not have time to rest and gain strength.
2. Wrong care, consisting in temperature fluctuations, leads to decay of the bulbous material. This prevents the eucharis from blooming.
3. Poor stocking density. It will take 3-4 years for a young plant to bloom. Helps speed up flowering joint landing several bulbs in one pot. How less space in a pot, the faster the lily will bloom.
4. Poor lighting, insufficient watering and top dressing- after the appearance of the first shoots.

Video: Why Eucharis does not bloom and how to make a flower bloom?

home lily disease

1. Gray rot- the causative agent are fungi lat. Botridis. Contributes to the development of increased moisture and non-compliance with the temperature regime of the air space, waterlogged soil. The first signs are expressed in the loss of elasticity of the leaves. After acquiring softness, the greens turn brown along the edge. Further, the painful zones are covered with gray mold, and they die. If you find a problem, hurry up to remove malicious places. Next, treat with Topsin-M, Fundazol, blue vitriol.
2. Stagonosporosis- the second fungal disease. Red elongated spots appear on all parts of the plant. Severe infection leads to the death of the flower. The cause of the development of the disease are: sharp temperature jumps and excessive moisture. pledge healthy flower are healthy seeds. Treat the bulbous material before planting it in the ground with fungicidal components: Oksikh, Maxim, Abiga-Peak, for about half an hour. Then dry for 2 days.

• Mushroom mosquito (sciarid)- Appears in very damp ground. His female produces offspring in the roots, which, growing up, eats the base of the roots. The flower begins to grow poorly, wither, does not form flowers. Watering will help to destroy pests:

1. Aktaroy (0.8g/l of water)

• Amaryllis mealybugs- start under the bulbous scale. They bend the green crown, and subsequently bring the death of the plant. We fight it by spraying with an insecticide:

1. Aktara
2. Akarin
3. Vertimek

• spider mite envelops eucharis in excessively dry air. With minimal damage - wash the greens with soap. Severe infection - requires the help of acaricides:

1. Sunmite
2. Akarin
3. Kleshchevit
4. Fitoverm

Due attention will help prevent infection with diseases.

Home lily leaves turn yellow

Problems of the Amaryllis family

Poor care is reflected in the healthy appearance of the plant. Natural yellowing and death of the green crown should not cause alarm. But the numerous yellow and withered leaves say:

1. About illiterate watering
2. About insufficiently high air temperature (less than +10)
3. About bright sunlight

We take out the bulbous material from the substrate and do a thorough inspection. Having found softness and a change in color, you must:

• Cut out rotten areas
• Sprinkle with charcoal
• Dry thoroughly
• Plant in fresh soil

How to transplant a domestic lily?

New planter for lilies

Transplanting is allowed no more than once in a three-year period, but we change the upper soil surface annually. The time of the process is the rest of the flower

Let's get to work:

1. You will need a high planter so that the width allows you to leave space between the wall and the bulb - 3-4 cm
2. We fill the bottom with any drainage
3. You will need a special bulbous soil
4. If there are 10 or less children, do not tear them off the main bulb. We plant in a bunch, without dividing the soil lump
5. Priming depth - 4-5 cm

Video: How to transplant eucharis?

• With proper care, Euharis is not visited by pests and diseases.
• The plant develops well and pleases its owner with beautiful flowering and pleasant aroma.

Video: Indoor lily. Landing and care

The purchase of planting material is a very important matter - the success of growing lilies depends on the timeliness. Before buying bulbs, or ordering through an online store, you need to find out which group of hybrids the selected flower belongs to, perhaps it’s even a species lily, they have special care.

If you are offered lily bulbs of unknown origin, it is better to refuse to buy - you can simply make a mistake with the choice of location, planting depth and further agricultural technology, but even worse if the lily is not suitable for your region in terms of frost resistance.

For example, varieties of LA hybrids or Oriental lilies (Orientals) require shelter if winters are harsh, and American hybrids are generally very thermophilic and can only be grown in southern regions or containers (winter in the basement).

For residents middle lane When buying lilies in Russia, the Urals and Siberia, it is important to know the flowering time when buying lilies, as the Eastern hybrids have a very long flowering period, some varieties bloom earlier, others later, but late-flowering lilies may not have time to ripen by winter (store nutrients), they will be depleted by spring and they will die.

If you have the opportunity to examine and touch the bulbs, choose those that are dense, hard, without spots of rotten scales, especially mold, always with live roots at least 5 cm long, and bulbs of white lily hybrids are viable only if they have good long roots . You should be wary if the bulbs are very dry - a good gardener will not allow this, soaking in water or wrapping with a damp cloth may not help, do not risk it.

Problems with buying lilies arise for flower growers if you buy imported bulbs from Holland out of season. The fact is that in autumn, imported bulbs go on sale only from last year's unsold stocks. In October-November, the Dutch only begin to harvest bulbs for sale: they dig, wash, dry, lay in cold storage, and they come to Russia only from the middle of winter.

Our domestic gardeners, on the contrary, only dig up planting material in the fall. Therefore, in the fall, you need to buy bulbs from friends in the garden, through clubs and forums of lily lovers, and at the end of winter and spring - lilies from Europe. However, it is very important to buy dormant bulbs. Sometimes the desire to buy beautiful variety so large that gardeners, without hesitation, purchase bulbs with sprouts, while others are ready to sell lilies immediately after flowering ends! It is a very common occurrence when on the market you are offered a dug up lily, with a flower that has not yet withered - to prove the authenticity of the variety. You are offered to cut off the peduncle, and plant the bulb immediately.

If you are an experienced grower, then most likely you understand how risky it is to buy lilies with sprouts, and even more so, dug up during flowering. The recommendation to break out the sprouts and just plant them in the ground is especially frightening. It is a huge stress for a plant to survive after a broken growth, to rebuild its biological rhythms from vegetation to suspended animation. Lilies that are not strong after flowering, when dug up, recover and take root for a very long time, very often they die! Survivors bloom weakly, slowly grow bulbs.

planting lilies

We have already written about this stage of cultivation - read:.

Let's reiterate more briefly:

If you bought bulbs at the end of winter or very early spring, before planting in open ground, they must be stored in the refrigerator, in the vegetable compartment or where the temperature is between 0 and + 4 ° C, no higher, the longer storage is expected, the closer the temperature should approach zero - optimally 0 + 1 ° С. Bulbs should be placed in moist sphagnum moss and a plastic bag with holes.

Important: almost all fruits and vegetables emit ethylene gas, and it has a detrimental effect on lily bulbs, so it is necessary to isolate them from fruits and vegetables. Moreover, it is fruits, not lilies, that should be sealed tightly in the bag.

You can keep lily bulbs in the refrigerator until the sprout reaches 5-6 cm. containers and put on a glazed balcony, in a film greenhouse, until frost has passed. Then just transfer (keeping all the contents of the pot) into the prepared holes in the flower beds.

If you missed the moment when the bulbs in storage began to sprout, and they grew too large, then place the bulb obliquely in the hole when planting.

If you bought lily bulbs in the fall, plant them right away, or at most they can wait 3-4 days wrapped in damp moss. If you are planting your own lilies, then consider two important factors:

• It is possible to divide and transplant lilies only 1.5 months after the end of flowering, this time is necessary for the bulbs to gain weight, store nutrients, they will grow up, look strong and elastic.
• It is better to divide and plant lilies when the mother bush reaches four and five years of age. By this time, it will grow enough so that the daughter bulbs can easily separate by themselves.

Tubular and other large-sized lilies can be planted less often - once every 6-7 years. An earlier transplant of lilies may be associated with damage to the flower garden with gray rot, an attack by mice that gnaw out the entire flower bed, or when thrips caused serious damage (nibbled on the bulbs), infected with a virus.

Before planting, the bulbs need to be soaked in Maxim fungicide. If a lily (lily) red beetle was noticed on your site, it is better to additionally process the bulbs in the Prestige or Prestigiator preparation - it is intended for processing potatoes from colorado potato beetle, but they do an excellent job with the lily beetle. The treatment is especially helpful during the spring planting of lilies, since the maximum effect of the drug is observed in the first month (the bulbs will sleep in the fall), but the fully active substance of these insecticides decomposes for more than a year.

We plant lily bulbs in the prepared soil to a depth three times the size of the bulbs (excluding Candidum hybrids and immature babies - lightly sprinkle them with earth).

After planting, make a small side around the hole, as trunk circle so that the water after watering does not spread into the aisles. Now they need to be watered, especially if the soil is dry.

How to care for lilies

Lilies, like all plants, need light, warmth, regular moisture, protection from diseases and pests, top dressing, mulching, and tying to supports for tall varieties for growth and flowering.

We take into account the need for sunlight when choosing a place.

Many types of lilies available for sale: Leuchtlin's Lily (Lilium leichtlinii), Speciosum Lily (Lilium speciosum), Tiger Lily (Lilium tigrinum), as well as Oriental hybrids (Orientals) and Tiger hybrids prefer very light partial shade or bright places where the sun is at least 4-6 hours in the morning or evening.

Asiatic lilies and LA hybrids prefer sunny areas, but also grow well in light partial shade.

LO hybrids, Trumpet lilies, OT hybrids prefer full sun. But even they sometimes need shading on especially hot days in the summer. You can organize it by pulling mosquito net or by installing a beach umbrella next to the landings.

Lilies with a height of more than 50 cm must be tied to a support so that they are not broken by the wind.

Mulching

After planting lilies, the soil must be mulched with straw, peat, coniferous or leaf litter, coniferous sawdust. Of all the types of mulch, the best is the forest floor. If you have enough acidic soils, use leaf litter (from under birches, aspens, lindens), if it is close to neutral - you can use coniferous, from under pines. But the needles strongly acidify the soil and are not suitable for mulching Tubular hybrids, Lilies regale and others who need slightly alkaline soil.

By the way, OT hybrids that form suprapubic roots are especially in need of mulching. As soon as they begin to appear above the surface, sprinkle the earth.

Mulching is necessary so that the soil does not dry out quickly, surface roots do not overheat in the heat and do not freeze out in winter. In addition, the mulch gradually decomposes and creates a new humus layer. Also, mulching allows you not to loosen the aisles - with mulch, the soil does not compact, it remains porous.

If you have the opportunity to get horse bedding - sawdust mixed with horse manure, then you can use such a mulch only after six months - so that the composition has time to rot and decompose well.

If you are growing lilies in a frame of groundcover or low-growing plants, mulching is not necessary. It looks very good next to the lilies bulbous ryegrass variegated - its variegated leaves are an excellent frame for lilies and soil protection. By the way, tall lilies look great and grow surrounded by lower daylilies.

How to water lilies

Lilies prefer the soil to be constantly in a moderately moist state. This is how they grow in nature - in the undergrowth, where a large layer of fallen leaves protects the soil from drying out, but does not create excessive dampness - the soil is very porous. Lilies do not tolerate excessive dampness - for them, stagnant water in the roots is fatal.

Therefore, we water as needed - in the absence of rain, about once a week, while water must be poured under the root between the rows. The best time for watering: morning or before 14-15 o'clock in the afternoon - the earth should have time to dry from above by night.

Experienced gardeners advise being especially careful with watering in the spring, when return frosts or sharp cold snaps by night are possible. In such cases, many use watering in conjunction with growth regulators and anti-stress drugs - Epin, Zircon, Previscur Energy. This is especially necessary during the budding period.

The greatest need for soil moisture occurs in June, when the temperatures are even during the day and at night, it is very hot during the day, and also after flowering, when the formation of lily bulbs and accumulation of nutrients before the dormant period.

However, overmoistening the soil for lilies is detrimental, especially when plantings are dense, if lilies are planted in a flower garden next to plants that need to be watered and fed frequently (for example, with roses), diseases develop from constant moisture. Most often this gray rot and botrytis - a fungal disease typical of bulbous plants (the lower leaves are covered with small spots, turn brown, dry out, flowering is weak, the disease goes from bottom to top).

The frequency of watering also depends on the type of soil - on light sandy loamy soils it is necessary to water more often, on loamy soils (even taking into account their improvement, the introduction of sand and peat) - less often.

After flowering, it is necessary to completely stop watering the lilies. The exception is abnormally hot weather in autumn, when the earth dries up to dust, you can water it 1-2 times after flowering, until the foliage has completely turned yellow.

Lily feeding

The first thing to remember is that lilies do not tolerate any organic matter! You can add humus to poor soil to improve its composition before planting (laying a flower garden), but it must be well-rotted compost - that is, if you bought a fresh manure machine, you can use it for flowers no earlier than four years later.

By the way, lilies do not favor and green manure- freshly infused mowed foliage and weeds, which are lovingly and gratefully accepted as a top dressing vegetables - tomatoes, cucumbers.

All organic lilies tolerate well-rotted leaf litter.

In total, these flowers are enough to feed three times per season:

• in spring, you can use calcium nitrate, twice with an interval of 2 weeks (6 g per 1 liter of water)
• during budding and flowering - with a complete mineral fertilizer, for example, Fertika Lux, Fertika Universal, or feed with potassium magnesia (1.5 tablespoons per 10 l), top dressing every 2 weeks
• after flowering - phosphorus and potash fertilizers once

In autumn, it is impossible to transplant and fertilize plants at the same time.

Combine all root dressings with watering, do not fertilize on dry ground, only with plenty of water.

In addition to root top dressing, lilies sometimes need top dressing on the leaf, if chlorosis appears on young leaves, perhaps there is not enough iron, then you need to spray with iron chelate (only not on a sunny day). Iron deficiency manifests itself on soils with an alkaline and neutral reaction, therefore, lilies, which are grown on such OT hybrids, Trumpet lilies, Candidum hybrids, suffer first of all. Iron is well absorbed at a pH of 6 and below.

But besides iron, neutral and alkaline soils may lack boron and zinc, so these minerals can also be used to foliar dressings, boron is especially useful, as well as for vegetables, it is diluted at the rate of 5 g per 5 liters of water, for spraying during budding. To compensate for the lack of zinc, add zinc sulfate 2.5 g per 5 liters of water to the solution.

If your soils are slightly acidic, then chlorosis can be caused not by iron deficiency, but by molybdenum deficiency, use a complex fertilizer that contains this element.

Lilies for cutting

Sometimes, when gardeners cannot often visit the garden, they tend to cut blooming lilies in order to take this beauty home with them in a bouquet. But you need to cut lilies correctly:

1. Don't cut the peduncle too low, leave as much of it as possible in the flower bed, otherwise the bulbs won't ripen properly.
2. Powder the cut point at the stem remaining in the flower bed with wood ash, then drop a drop of medical glue so that the wound does not rot.

Lilies after flowering

When the lilies have faded, remove the fading flowers to prevent the formation of seed boxes, the stem itself does not need to be cut!

In autumn, when all the leaves turn yellow, you need to cut the stems at a height of 10-15 cm from the ground and leave them like that until spring. In the spring, they just need to be pulled out of the ground (they practically fall out on their own).

Shelter for the winter

After autumn transplant lilies or after the final pruning of the flower bed, you need to insulate if winters in your area are harsh.

Usually the shelter is multi-layered: rake leaf litter, for example, from under apple and pear trees, cover with spruce branches or peat. Can be placed on top polyethylene film and crush with stones.

Eastern hybrids (Orientals) are especially in need of shelter for the winter; in the northwestern regions of Russia, they should be covered not with foliage, but with a layer of peat of at least 10 cm, then spruce branches.

In the spring, you need to remove the film and spruce branches, and leave peat or mulch, but it’s good to water it with special preparations to increase fertility, for example, Baikal-EM1.

It is important to remove the shelters in a timely manner, before the lilies start to grow, so as not to damage the sprouts or so that the young shoots do not rot.

These flowers normally tolerate any soil and climatic conditions and do not require special care during cultivation. That is why the cultivation of lilies is carried out in open ground, pots and containers.

Features of growing and caring for lilies at home with photos and videos will be described in detail in this article.

Lily is one of the most popular garden ornamental plants, attracting attention not only with its bright lush color and amazing aroma, but also with its unpretentiousness to climatic soil conditions.

However, it will be useful to know some of the features of growing this crop in the open field. First of all, you need to start by choosing a site and preparing it.

Features of site preparation

Lilies grow and bloom best in sunny areas protected from the wind. Before starting cultivation, prepare the soil, as these flowers grow in one place for several years (Figure 1).

Note: The soil must be dug up, removing the remains of other plants, as well as their roots. At the same time, for autumn planting soil is prepared in summer, and for spring - in autumn.

To increase soil fertility, together with digging, well-rotted manure (1 bucket per 1 sq.m.), superphosphate (30-50 g) and wood ash (0.5 liters) are applied. If you want to plant plants on an already prepared flower bed, note that the landings are not adjacent to too tall plants that will shade the flowers. For the same reason, it is not recommended to plant them under trees or bushes.

Figure 1. Outdoor cultivation order

Try to avoid dry areas of soil, give preference to well-drained soil. Pay attention to the level of acidity: an alkaline or slightly acidic reaction is considered optimal. If the soil is too acidic, it is necessary to add wood ash or carry out a notice.

Rules

Despite the fact that growing these flowers in the country is considered simple, and even beginner gardeners will be able to do it, a number of conditions must be met for abundant flowering.

When growing lilies outdoors, follow these rules:

1. Choose a well-lit, slightly elevated area with good drainage.
2. Fill the soil with organic and mineral fertilizers before planting.
3. Try to bring the acidity of the soil to the optimum level by liming or adding wood ash.
4. Carefully inspect the planting material in order to detect diseases, disinfect the bulbs before planting.
5. Spend spring planting for late flowering varieties. Autumn landing begins at the end of summer and continues until mid-autumn.

Ways

Lilies are cultivated in flower pots and containers that can be placed outdoors, as well as in open ground in a flower bed and in a garden, and in closed ground conditions - in a greenhouse.

At the same time, all kinds of breeding methods are used: bulbs, seeds, scales, children. Each method has its own advantages and difficulties. Consider some ways of growing in open ground.

Growing lilies from seeds at home

Breeding by seeds is a rather lengthy process, but it makes it possible to immediately obtain a large number of young, viable, resistant to various diseases plants. New varieties are also developed in this way.

For successful cultivation lilies from seeds at home, you need to know some features(picture 2):

• Different varieties have different temperature conditions seed germination, however, most of them germinate at a temperature of 20-25 degrees.
• Seeds do not need pre-treatment with cold, their germination does not depend on lighting, but depends on the timing of collection.
• It is recommended to plant seeds no later than the second year after harvest.
• To increase the rate of seed germination, they are pre-soaked for 15 hours, and to reduce the risk of infection with various microorganisms and bacteria, they are treated with bleach or a 0.04% solution of zinc sulfate.
• To obtain seedlings, seeds are sown in the period from February to March.
• Crops are produced in a substrate consisting of garden soil with the addition of peat, humus and sand.
• For sowing, containers with a depth of 10 cm are used, while sowing seeds to a depth of no more than 0.5 cm.
• The sown material is sprinkled with earth, moistened with a sprayer, covered with a film or glass cover.
• After the appearance of sprouts, the shelter begins to be gradually removed, starting from a few hours a day and until fully opened.
• Seedlings provide diffused sunlight, while reducing the temperature environment up to +12+20 degrees.
• Carry out regular watering of seedlings, preventing the soil from drying out.

Figure 2. Growing lilies from seeds

With the appearance of the first leaves, young plants are transplanted into separate pots, following the rules of care, which consist in gentle loosening, watering and maintaining the level of lighting.

In late spring - early summer, seedlings are transferred to open ground, having previously selected and prepared a site with light and fertile soil. When planting young plants, keep an interval of 30-40 cm between them. Subsequent care involves loosening the soil, watering and timely top dressing.

From the video you will learn how to properly plant and grow these flowers at home.

How to grow lilies from bulbs

Growing lilies from bulbs is one of the most popular ways, because it does not require much cost or effort. To do this, you must first stock up onions of the desired varieties. It is best to plant bulbs in early autumn, when the plant is already at rest (Figure 3).

Note: When inspecting the bulbs, it is recommended to remove all dead scales and shorten the roots to 5 cm, then disinfect the planting material immediately before planting, using a weak solution of 0.2% foundationazole.

If you are wondering how to grow these flowers from bulbs, you will be pleasantly surprised that the process is quite simple. To plant bulbs, dig holes no larger than 40 cm in diameter and 25 cm deep. The bottom of the holes is covered with gravel to ensure a good outflow of water. The drainage layer is sprinkled with fertile soil, on which the bulbs are laid.

Figure 3. Features of growing lilies from bulbs

Planting material is covered with earth in such a way as to hide the tops, the soil is compacted. Subsequent care consists in loosening, watering, top dressing, pest control.

The author of the video will tell even more useful information about methods of reproduction of lilies.

How to grow lilies at home in a pot

Among the huge number of varieties, those are bred that are adapted for growing in room conditions (Figure 4). These include Asian and Oriental hybrids, which form a small number of children, and therefore can grow in the same pot for several years.

By growing indoor varieties, you have the opportunity to regulate the flowering period. To do this, it is enough to correctly determine the landing time and provide the necessary conditions.

Pot selection

Interested in the question of how to grow lilies at home in a pot, you should know that such plants have some features.

Figure 4. Features of growing flowers in pots at home

One of necessary conditions for the full growth of indoor varieties is the right choice of a flower pot. To do this, you should know well the characteristics of the cultivated variety, because the higher the flower, the greater the height of the pot. For example, with a stem height of one and a half meters, the planting container should be about 40 cm high.

Note: You should know that one bulb occupies 16 sq.cm. seat.

This fact should also be taken into account when planting a crop in a flower pot, since an excess of free space provokes the production of children by the plant until the entire container is filled. For this reason, it is not recommended to carry out single plantings, but to plant bulbs in several pieces.

Care of a lily in a pot

After planting the bulbs in a pot and before germination, it is necessary to provide the plant with a low temperature and water as the soil dries. With the advent of seedlings, the first top dressing of the soil is carried out with liquid organic fertilizer. A week later, the second is held, but now using mineral fertilizer rich in potassium and phosphorus.

Figure 5. Planting and care indoor varieties in a pot

It is recommended to spray the sprouts twice a week with a growth stimulator to start the development of large bright flowers. When the sprouts reach a height of 10 cm, it is necessary to add soil to the edge of the container. Then they carry out regular loosening of the soil, water it daily, feed it every week. flowering plants. Until the culture has blossomed, its leaves can be sprayed to fastest growth and development, taking care to keep wet leaves out of direct sunlight (Figure 5).

Flowering plants must be sprayed very carefully, trying to avoid getting moisture on the petals, as this leads to a reduction in the flowering period itself. Starting from the age of one month, the plant begins to harden, gradually accustoming it to being outdoors. However, at night, the culture can be without loss on the street if the air temperature does not fall below +10. At abundant flowering additional supports are installed in the pot to support the stem and peduncles.

Pineapple lily: cultivation and photo

The pineapple lily variety is grown mainly in the open field, since in indoor conditions the plant blooms only when the ambient temperature is good and there is sufficient lighting, which can be difficult to organize. Therefore, it is left in flower pots only for wintering, and in the spring it is transplanted into open ground (Figure 6).

Note: As a rule, eukomis is grown from baby bulbs that are separated from the mother bulb. Bulbs are planted in separate containers using a light fertile soil with sufficient drainage from the beginning of March until the end of April. At the same time, they should be placed so that the top remains flush with the ground.

Waiting for sprouts, they carry out gentle watering as needed, and after the appearance of flower stalks, irrigation is increased and made more plentiful. Before transplanting eucomis into open ground, it is recommended to carry out hardening by taking pots with young plants into the open air.

Figure 6 External Features pineapple lilies

It is possible to transfer a plant from a pot to a flower bed only when the soil warms up enough, that is, approximately in the middle of May. In the southern regions of our country, eukomis bulbs can be immediately planted in open ground without pre-germination. It is important to know that the pineapple lily is a prominent representative of light and heat-loving plants. Therefore, for planting, take a site that is well lit by the sun. This variety is completely resistant to frost, so its bulbs need to be dug up every year and stored for storage.

Planted eucomis must be watered sparingly until the first leaves appear. Then watering is gradually increased, given that during the flowering period the plant needs a lot of moisture. After the plants fade, the introduction of moisture begins to decrease, and after the leaves turn yellow, they stop altogether. It is also necessary to regularly fertilize with complex fertilizers that do not contain nitrogen, since this element causes plant diseases. Unlike other varieties, eukomis under conditions indoor cultivation requires an annual transplant into a new container with a complete replacement of the substrate. bulbs from open ground dug out, disinfected and sent for storage in a dry, cool room.