Protection of concrete from moisture: methods and materials used. How many days after the foundation is poured, waterproofing can be done The better to cover the foundation of the house

Waterproofing is one of the most critical stages in the construction of a building. Correctly performed insulation work guarantees the protection of the foundation of the house from moisture and other factors. environment... It is no secret that at the time of pouring the concrete, the mixture leaks. The substance reacts to groundwater, which leads to a weakening of the foundation, moisture ingress into the walls of the house and the formation of cracks in them. The choice of materials that can be used to process the foundation is quite wide today.

Waterproofing rules

Each process that accompanies construction has its own characteristics. If you neglect them, then you can spoil the whole idea and get unpleasant consequences. Let's analyze important points, requiring increased attention when performing actions aimed at protecting the basement of your house from moisture.

To understand what type of insulation is right for your home, you need to establish the water table.
If you are building your foundation on loose soil, then possible flooding or flooding due to heavy rainfall should be prevented.
Pay attention to the factor that the soil tends to swell. This phenomenon occurs due to constant changes in weather conditions and the ability of water to expand or contract during freezing processes in winter period and thawing in the spring. Thus, the structure of the water changes, which causes deformation of the foundation.
Consider the conditions under which the building will be used. If you are building an object for commercial purposes, for example, a warehouse, then you need to choose the best waterproofing level.

Waterproofing the foundation of a wooden house

So, what difficulties can you face when building your own home? If your choice fell on building wooden house, then experts recommend using horizontal waterproofing to protect against moisture even during preparatory work. The drainage system is directly related to horizontal waterproofing and is necessarily used where there is a high level of groundwater.

If we talk about the specifics of the preparation, then it is carried out in stages: First of all, a foundation pit is pulled out under the house, clay is poured onto its bottom (a layer of about 20-30 centimeters), this layer is carefully compacted. A layer of concrete substance - screed (about 5-7 centimeters) is laid on top of the clay. Concrete hardening occurs after ten days, after which you can start treating the foundation with bitumen mastic and laying the first layer of roofing material.

Further, in the process of creating a wooden house, the algorithm will be repeated: a layer of roofing material on the treated surface of the foundation with bitumen mastic. It is important not to forget (especially in houses where there is a basement) about protecting the upper layer of the base of a wooden house, because a wooden object will press on it.

Horizontal waterproofing

Horizontal waterproofing of the foundation is needed to prevent moisture ingress. The foundation is made of porous materials and therefore absorbs water. If the wet surface is frozen, there is a risk of cracking. A moist foundation promotes the growth of fungi and mold. If you correctly make the insulation from moisture horizontally, then you can prevent the negative consequences of moisture penetration.

Types of waterproofing:

roll, is performed before the erection of walls by pasting or floating on a prepared surface;
impregnation, done during the construction of a building or its direct operation.

Wrapping waterproofing

To perform gluing waterproofing, you need a device that levels the screeds. It is made from a mixture of sand, concrete and a special filler. Insulation material - roll, based on polymers or bitumen.

How is glued waterproofing done:

the surface is leveled with a screed, to which additives are added to increase the resistance to moisture;
the screed is primed with a bitumen or water based primer. After the primer has dried, mastic is applied;
if roll material is selected, then it is laid on the mastic before it dries. When the material has a sticky layer, it is better to lay it after the mastic has dried. For fusion insulation, a propane torch is needed to heat the material and roll it over the surface;
materials are applied in several layers;
for a room with a basement, waterproofing is applied under the base of the foundation - in the place where the basement ends. If the building does not have a basement, waterproofing the foundation from the walls is sufficient.

Penetrating horizontal foundation waterproofing

Lubricating penetrating insulation from moisture is made from a solution of cement and chemical activators. The solution crystallizes on contact with the concrete surface and forms a moisture-proof layer.

How is it done coating waterproofing:

the foundation is cleaned, dirt is removed;
cement solution is mixed with water, chemical activators and filler;
concrete surface moisturize;
cement solution is applied;
leave the surface for 2-3 days - until the solution is completely dry.

Foundation injection waterproofing

Injection waterproofing is the saturation of the foundation with a gel solution through special holes. The solution penetrates to a depth of 0.5 meters, upon contact with water, it swells and closes the holes so that moisture does not penetrate into the foundation.

How to make injection waterproofing:

from the inside, the surface is cleaned of dirt;
the number of holes and their placement are calculated. The location is chosen such that it turns out to pour a continuous layer of mortar under the foundation;
holes are drilled at an angle, then special nozzles are inserted for pouring the solution;
with low pressure pumps, polymer gel is pumped into the holes;
remove the nozzles and seal the holes with cement.

Horizontal waterproofing of all types is highly effective, but vertical moisture insulation should also be done for maximum protection.

Vertical waterproofing

Vertical waterproofing is a way to deal with high humidity, at which the walls of the building base and the basement are strengthened. It is possible both at the stage of construction of an object and in preparation for construction.

Vertical waterproofing is made with outside the base of the building and is applied to the level of the sidewalk or blind area. However, there are several types of vertical waterproofing.

Bituminous waterproofing

The use of bituminous waterproofing is considered the easiest and in an accessible way... The bottom line is that contractors treat the foundation with bitumen mastic, as a result of which the substance penetrates into all cracks and gaps, filling them. This feature of bitumen mastic helps to protect against moisture, and, therefore, the strength of the base of a wooden house is ensured.

If you bought a bituminous block, you should melt it to a liquid consistency in a container, after which you need to apply the mixture in several layers (from two to four). It is important to remember that the surface must be treated with melted bitumen mastic at one time, because repeated heating of the substance will lead to the loss of useful properties.

ease of use;
the availability of building material;
low cost.

not a very high level of waterproofing;
relatively short service life of the mastic - up to 15 years.

Roll waterproofing

Rolled waterproofing of a wooden house using roofing felt is the application of a layer of one of its types: techno- or isoelast. This method can exist both independently and as a supplement to the previous type of insulation. The process of installing protection is very similar to laying a roof. You need to take a special burner, heat the roofing material and overlap it on the base, already treated with a bitumen mixture. Roofing material joints are also heated and fixed.

long service life - up to 50 years;
acceptable price.

Minus - a rather difficult process for independent execution.

Waterproofing with plaster

Waterproofing using plaster means creating a homogeneous mixture for strengthening a wooden house from the plaster itself with the addition of components that are resistant to any level of moisture. The base is impregnated by applying the substance with a spatula to the walls of the foundation. Such a composition not only protects against the ingress of groundwater, but also evens out the very base of the object.

low cost of materials;
ease of application of waterproofing.

short service life - up to 15 years;
the possibility of cracking over time;
insufficiently high level of protection against moisture.

Liquid rubber

If you decide to use, then the base will be reliably protected, because it is perfectly sprayed and serves your family for a long time. Before applying the substance, the foundation and plinth should be treated with a special primer.

There are two types of liquid rubber - elastomix and elastopaz. The first type is applied in one layer and hardens within a few hours. After opening the container with the mixture, the substance will no longer be stored for a long time, it must be fully used before setting. As for the second type, the mixture can be applied in two dense layers, and the remains will be stored in the container for some time.

Protection of the foundation is a very important stage in the construction of a house, since the further operation of the building will depend on how it is done. If everything is done correctly, the house will stand for many years.

Trust me, these are just some tips on how to protect the basement and foundation of your home. Experts will help you determine, already during the initial preparation, which type of moisture insulation is best for the basement of your particular house.

In order to give the foundation of any structure strength and durability, you must take care in advance to decide how to treat the foundation from moisture.

Unfortunately, many modern technological construction materials have a porous structure, which is why they are characterized by the presence of a hypertrophied ability to absorb and retain excess moisture. This property, of course, negatively affects both the strength of the base itself and the entire structure.

The most durable construction materials, including concrete and building stone, begin to crack from the inside under the influence of moisture.

There are several basic technologies that protect the foundation. Each of them has a number of functional advantages and disadvantages, which will be discussed below.

Technologies: how to protect the structural base from getting wet

Protection of the foundation from moisture can be carried out using the arrangement of waterproofing. Its type is selected depending on the functional characteristics of the structure being built, the climatic characteristics of the territory and the underlying surface, which will become the basis for the house.

There are two types of waterproofing construction:

horizontal;
vertical.

The latter is mounted on the front side of the base of the structure. It is applied starting from the sidewalk or basement structure. This is how you can protect the foundation from the destructive effects of soil waters.

First, horizontal option installation of waterproofing is carried out so that moisture does not penetrate into the basement area and does not destroy its walls. In addition, the treatment of the foundation from moisture protects it from the penetration of air currents, creating an unfavorable microclimate in the room.

The second design option, which will be discussed below, does not have this drawback.

Next, we will talk about how to protect the foundation from moisture using the method of hydrophobization. This is the process of processing the structure of the base of the structure special means- organic silicon compounds, which must be diluted with water without fail. Water repellents are not only high-quality moisture-resistant materials, but also reliable protection of the foundation from dirt and dust.

Using this method of processing the base of structures has the following advantages:

walls that have been treated with high-quality water repellents are resistant to graffiti - no additional funds will have to be spent on repairs;
significant frost resistance of structures;
moisture-repelling agents "keep out" mold and mildew to the walls; the original color of building materials is preserved;
water repellents can be applied even to a damp base.

The protective mechanism is characterized by the fact that after the procedure for covering the foundation with water repellents, a special moisture-resistant coating is formed, a kind of thin polymer film, it is tightly clogged into the pores, protecting them from natural moisture. In addition, the insulation of the foundation from moisture is also very durable.

Processing technology: specifics of the procedure

You can carry out this procedure using already ready-made solutions or their concentrate, which can be purchased at any hardware store.

In order to apply a special building mixture to a working cart, you will need quite affordable tools:

wide brush;
standard roller;
spray.

Any of these devices will perfectly cope with the task of processing the base of the structure under construction with a waterproofing agent.

If the protection of the basement of the foundation from moisture is carried out using special concentrates, then first you should carefully study the attached building mixture detailed instructions, in which it is clearly spelled out exactly how to dilute the product.

You can start working with the solution right away, however, do not forget about the preliminary cleaning of the foundation from all dirt, dust, and other harmful plaque.

In case you find out on the basis of building structure signs of rotting or mold, then it is imperative to treat the surface with the use of antiseptics and special chemical compounds... If the walls are covered with loose plaster, they must be cleaned using mechanical movements.

Substance - water repellent must be carefully evenly applied to the foundation until a characteristic shine appears. If the base material is characterized by an increased degree of porosity, then the mixture is applied in two layers.

It is better to apply the water repellent in warm dry weather - this way you will maximize the protective effect of the mixture.

It is important that a moisture-repellent mixture is the most acceptable answer to the question of how to treat the foundation from moisture, if there are such grounds;

construction concrete;
wooden;
metal.

Steel and iron elements, in addition to being protected from moisture, will gain "protection" from corrosive processes, and this, in turn, will have a positive effect on the strength of the foundation as a whole.

What are the hydraulic components of protective water-repellent mixtures

In order to increase the durability and strength of the structure and to protect it from unwanted moisture, special active additives are also used. They have a positive effect, among other things, on the frost resistance indicators of the structure as a whole.

They have a good effect on the process of laying structures made of concrete, and also increase its non-delamination and toughness.

With the use of such elements, it is possible to achieve that the degree of moisture absorption by the foundation is reduced by half. This is quite enough not to use any additional technical devices and chemicals.

For the solution, it is important to observe the dosage indicated on its packaging - this will help to achieve the optimal waterproofing effect. The additive is directly placed into a concrete mixer or into the structure that plays the role of a container in which the building mixture is diluted.

Moisture protection of the base of the structure being erected is a prerequisite for the building to serve for many years and will be strong, reliable and stable.

Conclusion

When cold weather sets in, most builders seriously think about how to optimally protect the foundations of structures from the process of exposure to a humid environment. This issue is especially relevant if the base is made of mineral raw materials - bricks, natural stone, and also covered with a thick layer of special finishing plaster.

There are several main ways to solve this problem, the main of which is considered to be the use of so-called water repellents - substances with a powerful water-repellent effect. These products are affordable and really effective. They are easy to apply and hold for a long period of operation of any building.

Such compositions have an excellent ability to penetrate deeply enough - up to 20 mm - into the depth of structural building materials, and at the same time provide their reliable protection from getting wet.

This technique is appropriate as an alternative to rather expensive complexes for facade insulation, and, at the same time, helps to permanently solve the problem associated with the ever-damp walls in already new houses.

Impregnation of moisture-protective action is applied to the foundation in several layers using such special tools like a spray or a wide brush. The surface must be allowed to stand for 24 hours, after which it acquires hydrophobic characteristics.

It is easy to process the base of the structure with special means on your own - this does not require additional skills and complex technical devices from the builder. In addition to the fact that the water repellent protects the foundation from moisture, it also plays the role of an antiseptic, which protects the structural base of the structure from harmful biochemical agents.

Waterproofing is what will help the foundation to serve for a long time, and will provide the house with strength, reliability and stability.

Foundation waterproofing in modern low-rise construction is almost an integral part of the construction process zero cycle... This is due to the presence of moisture in the soil in the overwhelming majority of the territories of our country. By itself, water is not particularly terrible for concrete, on the contrary, in a slightly damp state, concrete continues to gain its strength over the years. However, there are three big "BUTs".

First, concrete has such a property as capillarity. This is the rise of water up through the smallest pores inside the material. The simplest example of this phenomenon is the wetting of a piece of sugar, slightly dipped in a glass of tea. In construction, the capillary rise of water leads (unless of course to do waterproofing) to the penetration of moisture, first from the outer layers of concrete to the inner ones, and then from the foundation to the walls that stand on it. And damp walls mean an increase in heat loss, the appearance of fungi and mold, damage to interior finishing materials.

Secondly, the modern foundation is still not concrete. This is reinforced concrete, i.e. it contains reinforcement, which, upon contact with moisture, begins to corrode. In this case, the iron in the reinforcement turns into iron hydroxide (into rust), increasing in its volume by almost 3 times. This leads to the formation of the strongest internal pressure, which, when a certain limit is reached, also destroys the concrete from the inside.

Thirdly, we do not live in the tropics, and freezing temperatures for our climate in winter is the norm. As everyone knows, when water freezes, it turns into ice, increasing in volume. And if this water is in the thickness of the concrete, the ice crystals that form begin to destroy the foundation from the inside.

In addition to the above, there is another danger. It is not uncommon for a site to contain groundwater. chemical elements(salts, sulphates, acids ...) that have a corrosive effect on concrete. In this case, the so-called "corrosion of concrete" occurs, leading to its gradual destruction.

High-quality waterproofing of the foundation prevents all these negative processes. And how it can be done will be discussed in this article.

By and large, you can protect the foundation from moisture by going in two ways:

1) use when pouring the so-called bridge concrete with a high coefficient of water resistance (various brands of concrete and their characteristics will be discussed in a separate article);

2) cover the foundation with a layer of some waterproofing material.

Ordinary developers most often now follow the second path. What is the reason for this? At first glance, it would seem that it could be simpler - I ordered waterproof concrete at the factory, poured it in and that's it, sit and rejoice. But in reality, not everything is so easy, because:

price increase concrete mix with an increase in the coefficient of water resistance, it can reach 30% or more;
not every plant (especially a small one) can produce a grade of concrete with the required water resistance coefficient, and attempts to make such concrete on their own can lead to unpredictable consequences;
well, and most importantly, there are problems with the delivery and placement of such concrete (it has a very low mobility and sets rather quickly, which in most cases limits the possibilities of its use).

The use of a waterproofing coating is available to everyone and, with certain skills, you can even do it yourself.

Foundation waterproofing materials.

All materials used to protect foundations from moisture can be divided into the following groups:

coating;
sprayed;
roll;
penetrating;
plaster;
screen waterproofing.

Let's dwell on each of them in more detail.

I) Coating waterproofing is a bitumen-based material that is applied to the surface (often in 2-3 layers) with a brush, roller or spatula. Such coatings are commonly referred to as bituminous mastics. They can be made independently or purchased ready-made, poured into buckets.

The recipe for homemade bitumen mastic: buy a briquette of bitumen, split it into small pieces (the finer, the faster it melts), pour into a metal container and put on fire until it is completely melted. Then remove the bucket from the heat and add used oil, or better diesel fuel (20-30% of the mastic volume), mix everything thoroughly with a wooden stick. How this is done is shown in the following video:

Ready-made bituminous mastic is sold in buckets. Before use, for more convenient application, it is usually mixed with the addition of a solvent, for example, solvent, white spirit, etc. This is always reported in the instructions on the label. There are several manufacturers of such mastics with different prices and various characteristics of the finished coating. The main thing when buying them is not to make a mistake and not take material, for example, for roofing or something else.

Before applying the bitumen mastic, it is recommended to clean the concrete surface from dirt and prime it. The primer is made with a special compound, the so-called bituminous primer. It is also sold in stores and has a more liquid consistency than mastic. A coating waterproofing is applied in several layers, each of which is after hardening of the previous one. The total thickness of the coating reaches 5 mm.

This technology is one of the cheapest compared to those that will be described below. But it also has its drawbacks, such as a small durability of the coating (especially prepared on its own), a long duration of work and high labor costs. The process of applying mastic with a brush is shown in the following video:

II) Sprayed waterproofing or the so-called "liquid rubber" is a bitumen-latex emulsion that can be applied to the foundation using a special spray gun. This technology is more advanced than the previous one, because allows you to perform work more efficiently and in a fairly short period of time. Unfortunately, the mechanization of work has a significant impact on its cost.

The characteristics of liquid rubber and the process of its spraying are shown in the following video:

III) Roll waterproofing is a bitumen or polymer modified material, previously applied to any base. The simplest example is the well-known roofing material with a paper base. When producing more modern materials the basis is fiberglass, fiberglass, polyester.

Such materials are more expensive, but also much better quality and durable. There are two ways to work with roll waterproofing - gluing and fusing. Gluing is carried out on a surface previously primed with a bituminous primer using various bituminous mastics. Fusion is carried out by heating the material with a gas or gasoline torch and then gluing it. How this is done is shown in the following video:

The use of roll materials significantly increases the durability of the foundation waterproofing in comparison, for example, with coating materials. They are also quite affordable and affordable. The disadvantages include the complexity of the work. It is quite difficult for an inexperienced person to do everything efficiently. Also, you can't handle the job alone.

The emergence of self-adhesive materials on the markets several years ago made it much easier to work with roll waterproofing. How to protect the foundation with their help is shown in the following video:

IV) Penetrating waterproofing- this is a coating of concrete with special compounds that penetrate through the pores into its thickness by 10-20 cm and crystallize inside, thereby clogging the passages for moisture. In addition, the frost resistance of concrete and its protection against chemically aggressive groundwater increases.

These compositions (Penetron, Hydrotex, Aquatron, etc.) are quite expensive and have not found wide application for complete waterproofing of the foundation in a circle. They are more often used to eliminate leaks in already built and operated basements from the inside, when it is no longer possible to repair the waterproofing from the outside by other methods.

Learn more about the properties of penetrating materials and their correct application says the following video:

V) Plaster waterproofing by and large is a type of coating insulation, only here they are not used bituminous materials, and special dry mixes with the addition of waterproof components. The prepared plasters are applied with a spatula, trowel or brush. For greater strength and to prevent cracking, a plaster mesh can be used.

The advantage of this technology is the simplicity and speed of application of materials. The downside is the low durability of the waterproofing layer and the lower, in comparison with the above-described materials, water resistance. The use of waterproofing plasters is more advisable for leveling the surfaces of foundations or, for example, for sealing joints in foundations made of FBS blocks, before their subsequent coating with bitumen or roll waterproofing.

VI) Screen waterproofing- this is sometimes called the protection of foundations from moisture with the help of special swelling bentonite mats. This technology, which is essentially a replacement for the traditional clay castle, appeared relatively recently. The mats are attached to the foundation with dowels with overlap on each other. More information about what this material is and about its properties is described in the following video:

How to choose a waterproofing for a foundation?

As you can see, currently there is a huge amount of all kinds of waterproofing materials for the protection of foundations. How not to get confused in this variety and choose exactly what is right for your specific conditions?

First, let's see what you need to look for when choosing waterproofing:

the presence or absence of a basement;
ground water level;
type of foundation and method of its construction

The different combination of these three factors determines which waterproofing should be preferred in this case. Let's consider the most common options:

1) Columnar foundations.

can only be protected with roll-up waterproofing. To do this, cylinders of the required diameter are pre-rolled out of it, fixed with tape, lowered into drilled wells, reinforcing cages are installed and concrete is poured.

Most cheap option- the use of ordinary roofing material. If it is sprinkled, it is better to roll the smooth side out so that in winter, when freezing, the soil will stick to it less. It is advisable to make sure that the thickness of the waterproofing around the entire circumference is at least two layers.

When used for columnar foundation asbestos or metal pipes, they can be previously covered with any coated bitumen waterproofing at least 2 layers.

If you are going to erect on pillars, before pouring it, for greater reliability, the tops of the pillars must also be covered with a coating waterproofing (even better not as in the picture below, but directly from the ground). This will prevent a possible capillary rise of water from the ground into the grillage.

2) Shallow strip foundations (MZLF).

in essence, they should always be above the water table. Therefore, for its waterproofing, ordinary roofing material and bitumen mastic will be enough to prevent capillary suction of moisture from the soil.

The figure shows one of the working options. Before installing the formwork on sand pillow the roofing material folded in half with a small release is spread. Then, after pouring and setting the concrete, the side surfaces of the tape are covered with a coating waterproofing. Above the level of the blind area, regardless of what kind of base you have (concrete or brick as in the figure), a shut-off waterproofing is done by gluing 2 layers of roofing material to the bituminous mastic.

3) Recessed strip foundations (house without a basement).

Recessed waterproofing strip foundation regardless of whether it is monolithic or from FBS blocks, when a basement is not provided in the house, it can be done according to the scheme shown above for MZLF, i.e. the bottom is rolled material, and the side surfaces are covered with coating insulation.

The only exception is the option when the foundation is poured not into the formwork, but directly into the dug trench (as you understand, the coating will not work). In this case, before installing the reinforcing cage and pouring concrete, the walls and bottom of the trenches are covered with roll waterproofing with gluing or fusion of joints. The work is certainly not very convenient (especially in a narrow trench), but there is nowhere to go. This was discussed in the article.

Also, do not forget about the layer of cut-off waterproofing above the blind area.

4) Recessed strip foundations are the walls of the basement.

The use of coating and sprayed materials for waterproofing the walls of the basement outside is permissible only in dry sandy soils, when the groundwater is far away, and the top water quickly leaves through the sand. In all other cases, especially with a possible seasonal rise in groundwater, it is necessary to make roll waterproofing in 2 layers using modern materials based on fiberglass or polyester.

If the foundation is composed of FBS blocks, it is advisable to cover the seams between individual blocks with a plaster waterproofing mixture before waterproofing it, at the same time leveling the surface.

5) Slab foundations.

Foundation slabs (basement floors) are traditionally protected from moisture from below by gluing two layers of roll-up waterproofing onto the previously poured concrete preparation... The second layer is spread perpendicular to the first. This was discussed in more detail in the article.

In order not to damage the waterproofing layer during subsequent work, try to walk on it as little as possible, and immediately after installation, close it with extruded polystyrene foam.

At the end of the article, let's pay attention to two more points. Firstly, when the groundwater level rises above the basement floor level, drainage must be done (a system of drainage pipes laid along the perimeter of the house and wells for revision and pumping of water). This is a big topic that will be covered in a separate article.

Secondly, the vertical waterproofing layer of the foundation requires protection from damage that can occur during backfilling and compaction of the soil, as well as during frost heaving of the soil in winter, when it sticks to the waterproofing and drags it up. This protection can be achieved in two ways:

the foundation is covered with a layer of extruded polystyrene foam;
install special protective membranes, which are now available on the market.

Most builders prefer the first method, because it allows you to "kill two birds with one stone" at once. EPPS protects waterproofing and insulates the foundation. Warming of foundations is described in more detail.

Protecting the inside of the base before pouring concrete

Waterproofing the foundation is the key to its long service life and reliable protection from climatic and geological factors. If the foundation does not have moisture protection, or it is too weak, then the foundation will collapse from moisture and groundwater penetrating into it, which may contain aggressive impurities, accelerating the destruction process.

Insulation also plays an important role in protecting the structure from heaving soils. The surface of the organic binder prevents the ice from sticking to the concrete, only allowing it to slide. Insulation work should be performed immediately after the concrete structure has completely dried, in dry weather at above-zero temperatures.

Many protect only the upper part of the foundation or that part of it that is above the ground - this is wrong, as well as processing only the outer or inside constructions. Waterproofing work should be carried out on the entire surface of the structure, which will be affected by moisture.

Types of waterproofing works

Waterproofing the foundation with mortar before laying bricks

Measures to protect the foundation from moisture are divided into types:

Waterproofing coating. Such protection is carried out with organic binders (bitumen, mastics and emulsions based on them with special additives) and polymer compounds. They can be applied either by hand, with a roller or brush, or with a special gun using compressed air. Lubricants are very thick and must be diluted with solvents or heated to liquid state, according to the manufacturer's recommendations. Such compositions are usually delivered to construction sites in buckets or barrels.
Okleechnuyu insulation. As a rule, these are materials based on polymer fabrics or paper, impregnated with compositions with organic binders. For ease of transportation and storage, they are produced in the form of rolls. Before application, the roll is unwound, the waterproofing is cut out, after which it is applied to the concrete structure. During the production of work, so that such material adheres to the surface, it is heated gas burner so that the binder on the mounting side becomes liquid, after which the material is applied and leveled with a roller or trowel, removing dents and removing excess air from under the material. Glued insulation is more reliable and durable compared to coating view, as it does not wear off during the seasonal movement of the ground, thanks to the use of a fabric frame, which makes all the insulation a single rigid element.
Processing with liquid glass. For such protection is used special composition, which includes water-soluble substances based on quartz sand. When applied, such a composition penetrates deeply into the pores of concrete, and after hardening forms a strong protective layer to which additional insulation can be applied. It is not recommended to use such compositions separately, since they dissolve when exposed to moisture.

If you add liquid glass to concrete during its preparation, then the mixture after hardening will better resist the effects of moisture, since the additive will slow down its penetration into the depths. However, this will reduce the strength characteristics of the concrete structure, for which it will have to be reinforced with reinforcement. This option works well for lightweight structures such as a bathhouse or shed.

Features of work with different types foundations

Roll protection of the base of the building before laying blocks

Protective work can be performed on all types of foundations, regardless of their design and depth, even if the foundation is made in the form of masonry. All work must be carried out in accordance with the requirements of GOSTs and SNiPs in order to exclude premature destruction of the protective layer. If the surface needs to be insulated or plastered, then such work should be done only after the waterproofing layer has completely solidified.

In addition to insulating the side faces, protection against moisture in the lower part of the monolith should be provided. For these purposes, roll insulation is used, which is laid on the drainage layer or sand bed, before installing the formwork and pouring the mortar. Before laying, the concrete surface should also be treated with a binder.

If the project provides for the pouring of the grillage slab along the pile field, then only the grillage needs to be insulated, processing of the piles with such compositions is not provided.

Block masonry

Waterproofing scheme for block foundations of buildings

If the foundation is made of masonry blocks, then it must be insulated only with pasting material. Before applying it, the surface should be leveled with a layer of cement mortar, and only then proceed to pasting. It is not recommended to combine coating and pasting insulation, since the mounting side of the roll material may not adhere to the bitumen coating due to the difference in composition.

So that the insulation of the outer surface of the foundation does not wear out too quickly, it should be protected with a blind area, this will prevent excess moisture from entering the ground.

It should also be remembered that in the presence of groundwater close to the surface, waterproofing alone cannot be dispensed with, since it is not designed to protect the foundation from such an amount of moisture. To prevent flooding in this case, it will be necessary to arrange drainage systems. Only in combination with them will insulation be able to protect the foundation from the intense effects of large amounts of moisture.

The decision on how much the foundation should stand after pouring should be made taking into account a set of factors. In this case, the determinants are the structural construction of the base of the building, the design features of the structure and the standing time required for the full maturation of concrete. It should be remembered that failure to comply with the period during which the foundation structure must stand before building a house can lead to partial or complete devaluation of the bearing properties provided for by the project.

Concrete maintenance work

Building rules SP 70.13330.2012, which updated the text of SNiP 3.03.01–87, prescribe to withstand concrete before stripping, taking measures for its maintenance. The data on how much concrete laid in the formwork that forms the contours of the foundation should stand is spelled out in paragraph 5.4.1 of the Rules.

All surfaces must be reliably protected from possible evaporation of the water contained in the solution. It is also necessary to protect the freshly laid concrete mixture from precipitation on its surface. Such measures should be carried out before construction during the entire period, until a set of strength of at least 70% of the passport strength is provided.

After stripping, it is necessary to create conditions for maintaining the temperature and humidity in values that optimally correspond to the increase in the strength of the concrete structure. The rules do not allow walking on the surfaces of concrete structures until the concrete gains a strength of 2.5 MPa. It is impossible, accordingly, to install overlying formwork, carry out brickwork, erect wooden walls and perform other construction or auxiliary operations.

Strength set with concrete

The concrete mixture dries and receives the necessary and sufficient strength values in the process of passing through two successive interconnected stages:

Setting stage. The preliminary setting of the concrete mortar laid in the formwork in summer at an ambient temperature of about 20 ° C occurs during the day. During cold seasons it is necessary to use available funds heating and use heat-insulating structures. It should be borne in mind that the setting processes begin to occur already within the first two hours from the moment the concrete mixture is mixed with water. That is why the operations of mixing the mixture and placing concrete in the formwork should be as close as possible to each other in time intervals.
Concrete hardening. The concrete gains strength occurs in the process of hydration - the formation of molecular bonds of water particles with the substances that make up the mixture. Hydration takes place in a narrow range of temperature and humidity, which must be provided with concrete care measures. The importance of careful control of the course of the physical and chemical process in the mass of a reinforced concrete structure is explained by the complete dependence of the quality of the structure.

It is natural to assume that the period during which the foundation must be defended is directly related to the strength gain of the concrete that constitutes its basis. Ready-mix concrete of grades M-200 and M-300, which is made on the basis of Portland cement M-400 and M-500, respectively, gains 70% strength required before the start of construction and standardized by SP 70.13330.2012 in 28 days at an average daily temperature of 20оС. A change in the average daily temperature inevitably leads to different indicators of strength. The dependence of the gained strength is clearly visible from the table:

Concrete grade	Standing time (days)	Concrete strength (% of the standardized) depending on the average daily temperature (оС) of the concrete mass
Concrete grade	Standing time (days)	-3		+5	+10	+20	+30
M-200, M-300	1	3	5	9	12	23	35
	2	6	12	19	25	40	55*
	3	8	18	27	37	50	65
	5	12	28	38	50	65	80
	7	15	35	48	58	75	90
	14	20	50	62	72	90	100
	28	25	65	77	85	100	-

Dependence of the holding time of the foundation on its type

The insinuations that the finished foundation, after the set of the normalized strength of its constituent concrete components, must stand for a year or a winter, are absolutely not consistent. The widespread misconception about the need to withstand the structure until the end of the ongoing sedimentary-shrinkage processes arose as a result of the substitution of concepts. The fully erected building must be maintained before the start of finishing. This is explained simply by the example of existing varieties of the structural structure of foundations.

Video on how to accelerate the hardening of concrete

Columnar foundations

A columnar foundation is a series of separate pillars, for the arrangement of which a brick or masonry, often the foundation pillars are made of concrete or reinforced concrete. To give the foundation elements additional stability, a grillage is set up - a reinforced concrete tape connecting the headbands of the pillars.

This type of foundation is classified as a light variety, therefore, the foundation base, unloaded by the weight of the building, is subject to increased mobility during soil movements with a heterogeneous morphology, and can be easily deformed as a result of frost heaving. By definition, the foundation of a columnar structure cannot be defended, and it is necessary to start erecting walls immediately after the end of the setting of the masonry mortar or the curing of concrete.

Belt type foundations

Reinforced concrete strip foundations can be equipped in two types:

shallow foundations are equipped for the construction of light buildings and with their soles rest on soil horizons located above the freezing level;
deeply buried options involve the erection of bulk structures on them with a large weight, the level of occurrence of their soles exceeds the depth of freezing of the soil.

A shallow strip foundation undergoes loads similar in tension and strength to the effects on columnar options with a grillage. If such a foundation is allowed to stand during the period when the soil is actively heaving under the influence of freezing and thawing of ground moisture, the possibility of its deformation is very likely.

The foundations of the strip type of deep bedding rest with their soles on dense horizons, are not subject to the influence of ground shifts. The shrinkage processes in the concrete mass are completely completed after reaching the standard strength, and the structure's settlement under the action of its own mass, without taking into account the weight of the building, is completely leveled by expansion joints.

Plate varieties

Monolithic foundations are easy to calculate and equip, they provide the foundation for the building being erected with sufficient strength characteristics. The even distribution of the load on the soil base due to the large supporting surface determines the minimum value of the specific pressure on the soil. Competently prepared sand or sand-crushed stone pillow under foundation slab allows to prevent its significant sedimentary movements.

The stability of the building erected on a slab foundation directly depends on how carefully the preliminary earthworks were carried out. Amount of time how much should be defended monolithic foundation, is again determined only by the period required for the concrete to cure.

Pile foundations

The foundations of buildings on piles, with any technology for their arrangement, provide the transfer of load to deep, often primary, horizons of soil and rocks. This type of foundation erection completely eliminates the possibility of deformation of the building, regardless of how much time is allotted for their standing after the installation is completed.

The determination of the time for how long the foundation should stand after pouring should be correlated with the time period for which the ready-mixed concrete will gain the strength specified by SP 70.13330.2012. Additional curing is not advisable, and in cases of using columnar structures and shallow strip foundations, it is even contraindicated.

Developers are often faced with the question of how much the foundation should stand after pouring. Iron strength concrete foundation depends not only on the quality of reinforcement and concrete. The monolith must still gain sufficient strength before walls can be erected on it. Let's try to figure out how much the foundation should be before building a house.

Concrete in a cured state is an artificial stone obtained from a solution composed in certain proportions of cement, sand, gravel and water (composition of concrete for the foundation, proportions in buckets and kilograms). There is no unequivocal answer to the question: how long the foundation should stand after pouring. Although any builder can name the average figure - 28 days.

But the process of concrete curing is influenced by:

cement grade (choice of concrete grade for the foundation of a private house);
the percentage of cement and water in the concrete mixture;
weather conditions and air temperature.

The process of recruiting design strength characteristics can be roughly divided into two stages:

grasping;
hardening.

Foundation strength development table.

Grasping

The concrete mix has been in a liquid - or mobile - state for some time. This phase can be increased over time by constantly stirring the solution (on how to properly fill the foundation under the house). For this reason, concrete is delivered to construction sites in concrete mixers. Although this process has a downside: if it is in the mixer for too long, its qualities change, and for the worse.

The setting period is in direct proportion to the air temperature. For example, at zero temperature, the setting process begins in 6-10 hours, and ends 15-20 hours after mixing the mixture.

If it is thirty-degree heat outside, then within an hour after preparation the concrete will begin to set, and this process will be completed in 1.5-2 hours.

Hardening

At this stage, in fact, a set of concrete strength characteristics occurs. If you ask a professional how much a strip foundation should be defended, he will ask you a counter question: what time of the year are you going to stand for it?

If it is cold (at a temperature of 0 degrees), then after 28 days it will gain only 65% of its strength. With minus (-3 degrees Celsius) for the same period of time, this figure will be only 25%.

If the weather outside is moderately warm (+20 degrees), then in four weeks the foundation will gain 98% strength. At 30 degrees, concrete will only take 14 days for this.

There is a parameter "stripping strength". It is stipulated in the corresponding joint venture and is 70% of the brand strength.

In accordance with this, the formwork can be removed from the foundation no earlier than after:

7 days - at an average daily temperature of +20 degrees;
14 days - at +10 degrees.

Concrete strength table depending on the time of hardening.

When to start building walls

We figured out the strength of concrete. But after what time after pouring the foundation can you start laying the walls (how to calculate the concrete for the foundation)? Among private developers, there is an opinion that reinforced concrete should withstand at least a year.

And some believe that 3-4 months is enough. There are impatient developers who start laying the walls a week after the foundation is poured.

So, how long after pouring the foundation can walls be erected?

Experienced builders proceed as follows:

if it is planned to build a two-three-storey house, the construction of the enclosing structures is started 46 days after the monolith is poured. If the construction period falls in autumn or winter, it is recommended to increase the above period to 60 days. Do the same if you are not sure about the quality of concrete or the brand of cement (about what brand of concrete is needed for the strip foundation);
after the first floor is erected, the work is suspended for 7-10 days. During this time, the foundation adapts to the load. If cracks appear in the monolith during a break, then this problem is easier to solve at this stage;

After this break, further construction of the house can be continued as usual.

If you are interested in how much the foundation for a foam block house should be, keep in mind that all of the above rules and recommendations apply to this option (what is the foundation for a foam block house).

"Shelf life" of the foundation

How long can a foundation stand without a house? After all, one often sees such a picture: the monolith was prepared, and the further construction was frozen. After a couple of years, they decided to continue the process. But there is doubt about the safety of the structure.

If the foundation has been properly mothballed - covered with floor slabs, waterproofed, and the groundwater drainage measures have been fully completed, there is a hope that the structure has been preserved in good condition.

If none of the above was done, invite specialists to technical survey foundation. Without checking its condition, building walls is risky.

Video about how much the foundation hardens.

How long after pouring the foundation can a house be erected?

depending on what brand of foundation. but in principle it is possible in a couple of weeks. with rastavor adhesion after 12 hours and full hardening 10-18 days.
usually, the walls begin to be erected a week after the foundation is poured,
during this time, it gains 70% of the brand strength, which is quite enough,
all the same, in the remaining three weeks, you will not load it to 100%.
(and if the house is one, two floors, then never load 100% at all)
According to SNiP, it is supposed to load (up to 70%) loads after the foundation has taken 70% of the strength. That is, 100% is achieved after 28 days at an ambient temperature of 25 C, respectively, the lower the temperature, the longer the setting (but not lower than +10).
Accordingly, it is better to start the partial load after 14-18 days, subject to the temperature and humidity conditions. It is necessary to water the concrete, it is better to cover it with rags or shavings, for moisture. If you load earlier, the concrete will settle around the reinforcement and the reinforcement will not interact with the concrete, as a result the foundation and structure will crack. We need a little more data from you.
it is hard to say. it all depends on many factors. if the house is big, then it's better not to rush
Summer residents never had enough time. effort and money to build a house in one season, so the nonsense about a year's "aging" and shrinkage of the foundation was invented and firmly entered into use. There was no question at all about knowing at least something about the soils under the house, so any experience has a right to exist, even if it contradicts generally accepted standards.
Concrete gains full strength in 28 days BUT in a week you can already start Concrete not in the cold
How the concrete will set. two hours later .. the house is not built in five minutes ... and everything will have time to settle. .But the main thing is washing the foundation, especially increases the strength of the Pepper with kebabs and mushrooms ... when the participants of the holy ritual are carried on a stretcher ... then the house will stand for EYE!
if in the evening it was poured, then in the morning to disassemble the formwork and the marking of the columns and so on. and until 28 days have passed, the overlap of the first will be poured and even little things. this is for a well-reinforced foundation nonsense. 15 years of practice, although there is no trace of winter here and the soil is very heavy clay.
there is a clear example of a friend's house was built in the 60s. the foundation was poured and it stood for two winters. then the walls. the house is still without a single crack and still stands evenly. and not far from them, made recently and using fast technologies (they did not wait for shrinkage to occur) and has already cracked. make a conclusion. no need to rush)))
Shrinkage is not needed, concrete hardens for 28 days, the house can be built, but the shrinkage will take place along with the house, wait until the finishing is done if the house is made of stone, and the frame, for example, is immediately possible. If you leave the foundation for the winter, it must be preserved. When concrete stands unloaded in the winter without preservation, it is even worse. Water gets into the pores of concrete, if such a foundation stands for several years, destruction will take place.
It depends on what kind of foundation)) it's not just about building concrete strength - at least 28 days.
No matter how a friend from Einstein's Ava puts cola, everyone who goes contrary to his special opinion,

you (building on your own), asking a similar question (i.e., not knowing the elementary things in building), all the more you cannot know exactly how your soils will behave and whether the foundation has been chosen and installed correctly.

what I'm leading to: it's one thing if defects appear only on the foundation (during settlement), and another thing if they touch the whole house (up to the roof).

Fix jambs on the foundation - one cost,

but to save the structure as a whole is different !!! and not a fact .. what happens)).

so personally I would prefer to survive the winter and early spring (melting, rains .. floods), you may have to think about drainage.

Here's what you need to attend to. before thinking about the walls - this is the correct waterproofing of the foundation, so that it does not absorb moisture .. does not transfer it to the walls and there is no damage during freezing (it is better to insulate the foundation before the walls are erected).

Be patient for half a year, read more. ... find out .. suddenly you missed something))
I do not agree about shrinkage - complete nonsense. If there is correct reinforcement cage, i.e., reinforced concrete, then such a foundation will not break. And before winter, it is better not to leave the foundation uncovered. Some have correctly noted that it is necessary to wait 28 days, but 21 days are quite enough.
usually after the foundation has shrunk, that is, fell into place. let's say after winter you have to watch
Shrinkage is required, therefore, after winter.
Chernz 28 days
Standard concrete gains strength after 28 days, but even when erecting high-rise buildings with the help of professional formwork, they wait for a couple of days to fill the next floor. It all depends on the air temperature, the composition of the concrete, the brand of cement and the material of the house itself.

The concreting of the strip and slab foundations of the house is carried out according to a long-established technology. At first glance, there is nothing complicated in the work, but during the pouring, during the process and after the solidification of the monolith, many questions arise related to various nuances. Some of them are so important that non-observance may well lead to one or another structural failure. For example, how long does it take after pouring before removing the formwork, and how long does the concrete need to cure before starting the next stage of work? You can hear different opinions among experts, but the rules still exist.

What threatens untimely formwork removal

As you know, to fill the strip or slab foundation of the house, a mushy concrete mortar... After laying it in the formwork, the processes of cement hydration and the gradual hardening of concrete begin. For their correct completion, you need to allocate a certain amount of time required for the foundation to be able to withstand and gain design strength.

If the formwork is removed from the structure immediately after the cement has set, there will be a possibility of the monolith creeping into different sides... A fragile "body" not only will not be able to take the load, but also keep its own shape. This is especially true for massive foundations.

If the dismantling of the formwork from the strip foundation is carried out after the cement mortar has set, but before it gains a certain strength, then cracks will appear in the structure. For the underground part of the house, which takes over and distributes all the loads to the ground, this threatens with split and complete destruction already during the operation of the house.

How much should the foundation stand after pouring? There is no definite answer to this question. The average period of time is determined by 28 days, but in some cases 15-20 days are enough. In difficult conditions, the deadlines need to be extended.

Professionals assure that the foundation of the house must stand at least a month before it is loaded.

So that the structure does not shrink, does not warp and collapse, you must strictly comply with the construction rules and technology for the construction of the underground part of the house. The foundation is the pillar of the building, therefore it does not tolerate negligence, inability and lack of basic knowledge.

How long should the foundation be defended

The terms specified in the standards, provided for the concrete structure to stand, do not always correspond to real time. They are influenced by extraneous factors, such as:

ambient temperature;
humidity regime;
the presence of precipitation;
season;
soil conditions;
terrain relief;
dimensions and type of foundation - strip, slab, columnar;
design strength of concrete;
quality of materials;
the presence of groundwater at the site;
construction technology;
the presence of additives;
the value of the calculated loads.

In addition to the above points, situations may arise that affect the period during which the foundation of the house will have to be defended before starting further work... In some cases, the concrete structure is left even for the winter, so that when the soil thaws it is easier to identify defects and correct shrinkage. In this case, the monolith is reliably covered. It is noteworthy that not a single standard will be able to take into account all the nuances, therefore, the question of how much the foundation of the house will be defended is decided on an individual basis.

In determining the timing, the worst conditions for the site should be assumed. The stock, in this case, will play a positive role.

How does the foundation of the house stand

The first time the concrete structure is allowed to stand immediately after pouring. This period lasts up to seven days, during which the surface is watered. The concrete sets and begins to harden. Cover the foundation from above plastic wrap but you can also use:

absorbable cloth;
sawdust;
straw.

The polyethylene is raised before watering, and other materials are moistened from above. They perfectly retain moisture, preventing water from evaporating prematurely. The duration of the solidification of the monolith depends on the season. After about a week, and in the hot season - after 10-14 days, watering is stopped, but the casing layer is left up to 28-30 days after the end of placing the concrete mixture in the formwork. Thus, primary standing occurs, which is quite sufficient for foundations installed on a foundation buried below the level of soil freezing.

But in practice, there is also secondary standing. It concerns situations when shallow foundations have to be erected on heaving soils. In this case, the hardened concrete structure is left to winter. With the arrival of spring, the movements are recorded, and the base is strengthened by adding sand or gravel with the obligatory layer-by-layer ramming.

Experts assure that it will be better if the foundation will stand idle for a whole year. It turns out that in the first month after pouring, concrete gains strength up to 70-75 percent, and the remaining 25-30 percent - in the next 11 months. From this we can conclude that if the construction time allows, then preference should be given to a longer time period. If the period for the construction of the building is limited by rigid frames, then the installation of the walls of the house begins 28 days after the foundation is poured. With favorable climatic conditions and the use of lightweight materials in the building envelope, the period can be reduced to two weeks.

On what day after pouring the concrete, waterproofing can be applied. Is it worth it to do waterproofing for the winter, but not cover with earth?

it all depends on the temperature ... it is believed that concrete gains strength after 28 days ... the main thing is that the surface is dry ... just look at the color - the concrete has brightened, touch it - the wet surface is not felt - you can make waterproofing ... it will not stick to the wet surface ...

It is advisable to stand for 30 days, and so you need to look at its humidity

Definitely not, complete drying of concrete for about a month, especially at this time.

Good afternoon. It is necessary to start from what kind of waterproofing (bitumen mastic, fused roll, sprayed rubber-bitumen, sprayed polymers, cement-based THIXOTROPIC PLASTER, polymer membrane) based on this application time from a couple of hours after removing the formwork to several weeks. Backfilling is not necessary, some types of insulation will have to be protected before backfilling.

Before running to the store for waterproofing material, you first need to clarify the so-called hydraulic technical characteristics of the soil on your site - this is the indicator that is decisive in the selection of waterproofing for a specific type of soil.

1. Coating (painting)

This group includes "liquid" materials - bitumen-containing mixtures and solutions, directly bitumen. Coating bituminous waterproofing the foundation will "stick" to the surface of the concrete structure for a maximum of 6 years; after this period, the coating will lose its elasticity, "go" with cracks and become quite fragile (if frost hits, then such a coating will not be of much use).

True, on a bitumen basis, it includes components such as a polymer raw material (polymer mastic), which contains a filler with mineral additives.

And the percentage of cement gives liquid composition additional adhesion properties - the solution "adheres" well to the surface of the concrete foundation. Also, a waterproofing coating is excellent for very hard surfaces subject to vibration and deformation.

This type of waterproofing is used in cases where it is necessary to protect surfaces from flooding by groundwater and for draining soils.

The thickness of the layer of coating insulation can be from 1 to 3 mm - and the entire solution “settles” into the micropores of the concrete structure of the foundation and forms hermetic “plugs” that clog the pores.

When waterproofing the surface of the walls of the basement with bitumen mastic, it is necessary to observe all protective measures and make sure that the solution does not get on the skin of the hands and feet, in the respiratory tract. The very liquid waterproofing of the foundation is applied with a spatula to a previously (and carefully) prepared surface.

In addition to bitumen-containing materials, in the modern market, foundation waterproofing with liquid glass is used - this is the same solution based not on bitumen, but on liquid glass.

The advantages of coating waterproofing include:

Availability (this is one of the most popular types of "liquid" insulation, which can be found in almost any construction market)
Low cost in comparison with other types of materials and compositions for foundations
Good application to the surface (e.g. waterproofing the foundation liquid rubber is easy enough)

The disadvantages of this type of material include:

Fragility (maximum service life - six years)
Destruction of insulation in places of deformation seams during shrinkage of a concrete structure
Brittleness of the casing layer at severe frosts(low tensile strength)
Drying time (for this reason, liquid waterproofing cannot be used in wet weather)
The need for additional protection against the formation of fungi, mold and plant roots

As you can see, the relative cheapness of the coating material turns out to be imaginary.

2. Oleechnaya (roll)

Everything roll materials for the foundation are one of the most inexpensive waterproofing materials.

For example, this is the same roofing material, roofing felt, film - all of them, of course, are considered good protectors against moisture, but the service life of these materials is even less than that of coating materials. So, waterproofing the foundation with roofing felt (without reinforcement, of course) will last no longer than three years.

Today, however, manufacturers are striving to improve (if you can call it that) their products, and therefore they are being replaced by new materials - with increased strength indicators, reinforced with polyester and other polymer additives that increase the elasticity of the material. These include a variety of roll materials such as ecoflex, isoelast, fiberglass, etc.

The peculiarity of using such a roll waterproofing is that the foundation should be waterproofed twice - in two layers in layers.

Why is rolled waterproofing also called gluing? Because many of today's polymer roll films for waterproofing they have an adhesive base on the "inner" side, which is glued to the surface.

However, gluing waterproofing of foundations has its drawback - in order to avoid possible damage to the material, it must either be carefully fused or glued very carefully. In the case of surfacing, you will have to work with a construction burner - and this is an expensive pleasure for owners of private houses (you will either have to purchase equipment or rent it).

Another significant factor is the modification of polymer waterproofing. For example, there are membranes based on bitumen and polymer components - and the same product can be both low-modified and highly-modified.

The latter leads to an increase in the cost of the material - and this is due to the quality of the product. And yet one of the cheapest waterproofing in this segment remains a film for waterproofing the foundation - "cheap and cheerful".

3.1. Penetrating

It is the same liquid mixture as the coating waterproofing mortar, but with a slight difference in the principle of operation: if the foundation waterproofing coating seems to "envelop" the concrete surface, then the penetrating one acts, as the name suggests, by "penetration" - that is, ... , after applying it to the walls of the foundation, the composition passes into the pores of the structure, freezing inside.

Today, penetrating foundation waterproofing is one of the novelties in its segment. In appearance, it resembles a simple white primer or ceramic liquid, but in consistency it is a mixture of acrylic, polymer substances and the smallest ceramic particles.

The particles are small vacuum capsules - they help to reduce the heat transfer coefficient of the structure covered with the penetrating mixture.

Manufacturers have achieved the implementation of unique properties - along with good elasticity, the mixture perfectly "lays down" on the surface of the foundation walls, at the same time protecting the structure from moisture, and from the formation of fungi, and even from corrosion.

Today, penetrating waterproofing is used not only mainly to protect the foundations of buildings, but also for such structures, the location of which does not provide for the arrangement of ventilation systems.

Of the advantages, it can be noted:

its cost-effectiveness - a thin layer is enough to protect the surface from moisture,
light weight (a thin layer less than 1 mm will not weigh general design foundation, as opposed to pasting),
drying speed, ease of application, the ability to use both indoors and outdoors, durability.
almost like polymer basement waterproofing, it can last up to 15 years.

However, like any material, penetrating waterproofing has its drawbacks.

One of these is the relative fragility of the material - for example, if the composition is applied to the surface of a concrete structure, which has cracked due to the inconsistency of the period of gaining branded strength, then the penetrating insulation will simply collapse.

3.2. Injection waterproofing

Injection can be considered a type of penetrating insulation: its mode of action is no less effective, and the advantages are obvious:

Good operational life.
Excellent protection against moisture and temperature extremes.
Good thermal insulation and anti-corrosion properties.

In most cases, injection waterproofing of the foundation is used in conjunction with liquid rubber (or liquid glass). Depending on the type of raw material composition, this type of waterproofing can have increased elastic properties, flexibility, manufacturability. The injections are environmentally friendly and have excellent adhesion properties.

In addition to its main qualities, injection insulation has become popular due to its maintainability - it can be "repaired" in the event of mechanical or thermal damage.

In particular, the application includes only a uniform distribution of the layer of waterproofing material - if the mixture is applied correctly, then the seams on the walls, small cracks in the plaster and minor irregularities (flaws, defects) will practically not be noticeable.

The disadvantages of this type of waterproofing include a relatively short service life - only five years, after which it is desirable to repeat the injection procedure.

4. Installed waterproofing of the foundation

This type of waterproofing is also not quite common since it is. For example, the most "running" today is bentonite clay (or rather, mats based on it).

The principle of its device is as follows:

bentonite mats are placed between cardboard or geotextile, which after a while decomposes directly in the ground.
the mats themselves remain, as a result of which a lined foundation is obtained.

Note that the waterproofing of the foundation with clay is practically not suitable for application to the walls of the basement - that is, where the insulating material must be in contact with air. Therefore, it is advisable to use it only as a waterproofing material under the foundation slab.

5. Membrane

The membrane material is made from a special PVC sheet with the addition of plasticizers. Various polymer components increase the service life of the material up to 50 years.

The advantages that membrane waterproofing of the foundation has are as follows:

Heat resistance.
Durability.
Resistance to chemically aggressive environments and the effects of various microorganisms.
High resistance to high temperature extremes (membrane waterproofing does not change its quality indicators).
Does not stick or stick to the concrete surface.
Elasticity - due to this property, it can be used for foundations that have not yet "passed" the shrinkage of the structure.
Ease of installation - it is installed in much the same way as the build-up waterproofing of the foundation.

Waterproofing the foundation with membrane sheets is possible with the use of special equipment ( construction hair dryer, which carries out welding of sheets).

Well, there is probably only one minus for such a waterproofing material - the high cost and Supplies, and the finished product, and welding.

6. Cutoff

The very name of this type of foundation waterproofing already speaks for itself: cut-off waterproofing of the foundation contributes to the "cut-off" of capillary moisture - it should be used at the points of contact lower parts walls and top surfaces of the foundation.

In most cases, horizontal cut-off insulation is used - these are roll materials, bitumen mastic, and polymer film.

In addition to horizontal, vertical cut-off waterproofing can also be used - the difference in surface insulation will be in the position of the material.

For vertical shut-off waterproofing, insulating PVC tapes can be used - judging by the feedback from consumers, more than half prefer to use insulation with a relief surface (it increases the adhesion of the material to the concrete surface).

However, cut-off waterproofing can be not only roll, but also injection - this is especially required for those houses whose foundations are located in areas with a high level of groundwater (or in places of increased dampness).

In pre-drilled holes of small diameters, which fills the structure of the micropores of the foundation and prevents them from entering the structure groundwater... Thus, this type of insulation protects the foundation from vertical suction of moisture contained in the soil.

7. Sprayable

This type of waterproofing is "liquid" - it is applied using special spray equipment. The advantages include:

ease of use (a spray bottle is filled with a mixture, which is then sprayed onto the surface of the walls of the basement and foundation),
no need for preparatory work (for example, if coating or pasting waterproofing should be applied to a previously cleaned and polished surface for better adhesion, then sprayed waterproofing of the foundation does not require special "measures") - the maximum that may be needed is sweep away construction dust from the surface.
As a material for spraying, an ordinary cement mortar with plasticizing additives that have a penetrating effect (quartz, cement and active additives) can be used.
But the disadvantage is the need to reinforce the sprayed surface in order to fix the material. In addition, spraying will not eliminate or hide even small flaws (defects) in the surface of the foundation, therefore, the slightest irregularities will still be "visible." Therefore, there is another drawback of using this type of waterproofing - the impossibility of applying to buildings complex shapes(it is also impossible to use glued roll insulation for them).

8. Polyurea

This is not a very "tasty" name - not at all what you thought. Polyurea is called a polymeric substance, basically containing polyester components, which impart good plasticity to the material due to their increased viscosity properties.

However, due to the high drying rate, the viscous material becomes plastic-like, turning into a protective plastic film, which is distinguished by its moisture resistance, resistance to mechanical damage and temperature extremes.

In essence, waterproofing a foundation with polyurea is nothing more than applying a coating layer to the surface concrete structures... Due to its "solidity", polyurea does not leave traces and seams on the surface at all, and the "continuity" structure prevents the formation of "cold bridges", therefore, heat losses and moisture penetration into the structure are not terrible.