How to build a beautiful and durable stone fence with your own hands according to all the rules. Build a stone fence with your own hands for centuries Laying a stone fence

If when creating a fence around a house, it is important protective functions equal with a respectable appearance, it is better to give preference to the stone. This is the oldest building material created by nature itself. The stone fence has many advantages and deserves to be told about them in more detail.

Advantages and disadvantages

All the advantages of a stone fence around the house can manifest itself when it is built according to the rules using high-quality cement mortar. And the advantages of a stone fence are as follows:

  • practically unlimited service life;
  • environmental friendliness and safety of raw materials;
  • a wide range of stone prices, allowing everyone to choose an option for their pocket;
  • absolute incombustibility, frost resistance, low water absorption and the ability to protect the site from street noise;
  • installation does not require the involvement of expensive equipment;
  • a stone fence around the house will easily fit into the design of the site, made in almost any of the styles, and will look great against the background of the surrounding landscape.

The stone fence also has disadvantages. They are few, but they are significant. Firstly, construction is a laborious and lengthy process. Secondly, due to the large weight, a strong foundation is required for it. This will make construction even more expensive and increase its time.

About the types of stone for the fence

The choice of material in this case is the main factor determining the price of the structure. When erecting a stone fence around the house, you can use:

  1. Ordinary cobblestone. The cheapest, but very durable. You can find it literally under your feet, but in this case you will have to be content with the gloomy in gray of its structure. It will cost a little more to buy a special red-brown cobblestone. It has a more regular rounded shape and will give your fence design an attractive texture.
  2. Pebbles are used infrequently, because they are too small, and for this reason it is quite difficult to work with them. Usually, pebbles of large fractions are used to build stone fences, and the corners and plinth of the fence around the house are laid out of brick. It will give the building the necessary strength.
  3. Dolomite is a hard, but easily worked, blasted stone. Further, the rock is polished, so that the stone and buildings from it acquire an elegant appearance. It perfectly complements the design of both the house and the site.
  4. Limestone. This type of stone attracts with its availability and ease of processing. But we must not forget about its shortcomings. It has a porous structure and easily absorbs moisture, which, freezing and thawing, will quickly destroy the fence. To prevent this from happening, the limestone surface is treated with water repellents.
  5. Sandstone is many-sided and diverse; it can have a polished or hewn surface. Beautiful, durable, frost-resistant and practically non-absorbent material.
  6. Rubble stone is called the fragments of the most different breeds which differ in size. A rubble stone fence around the house will look especially neat from a rubble stone 20-40 cm in size.
  7. Flagstone is a variant of wild stone. These are also fragments of rocks, but, unlike buta, having a flat shape. Only an experienced craftsman can build a fence from this material, since it has to be carefully sorted by size.
  8. Granite is the most durable, the most beautiful and the most expensive. Not only the material will be expensive, but also the work with it. The stones are usually large and have to be broken and then resized to fit the overall design of the fence.
  9. Marble competes with granite in terms of cost, is not inferior to it in strength, but is easier to process. Fences made of marble buta around the house are almost eternal structures that can stand for several centuries, remaining elegant and durable.
  10. Artificial stone is a great option for those whose wallet cannot stand buying natural stone. In fact, this is concrete, but externally and in terms of performance, it does not differ from natural stone in anything other than cost.

After choosing the material, you should start building. Building a stone fence with your own hands is a long and difficult process. It will require both patience and knowledge of the main stages of construction.

Foundation pouring and stone preparation

First, the site is marked, at which the points where the corner posts will stand are determined and marked with pegs. Then, twine is pulled between the pegs, and places for ordinary posts are marked. The distance between them should not exceed 3 m.

Further, a trench is dug, the width and length of which is determined by the width and length of the future fence, from 50 to 70 cm deep. In places where the pillars will be, pits are dug to a depth below the freezing level of the soil. In them, on a crushed stone pillow, they are installed and fixed vertically metal pipes with a diameter of 4 to 10 cm - supports for future pillars.

A formwork is created from the boards, into which reinforcement is laid. On both sides near it, every 1-1.5 m, stakes are driven in and connected by transverse beams. They will protect the boards from deformation during pouring.

The foundation is poured with a concrete mixture of the consistency of thick sour cream. It consists of cement M300 or M400 - 1 part; sand - 2 parts; crushed stone - 4 parts. The foundation should be slightly above ground level, otherwise water after rain and snow melt will accumulate along the fence, erode the soil and cause mold to appear on the stones!

After pouring, the concrete must be pierced, covered with PET film (for more uniform drying), wait about 2 or 3 weeks. This is necessary for the mixture to harden and gain the desired strength.

The stone is sorted by size and color, a large cobblestone is broken. The most even fragments and stones, the shape of which is close to rectangular, are set aside, they will be used to build pillars. When the material is sorted, and the foundation has gained the necessary strength, then it's time to proceed to the most important stage.

Pillar construction

When using a processed rectangular stone, the fence is laid using the same technology as the brick laying. This is the so-called tessellated masonry. There is also an improved plank masonry, for which an ideally shaped material is used. But more often, home craftsmen use raw stone, the shape of which is far from perfect. For it, rubble, or "wild" masonry is used.

The simplest is the sliding formwork method. It allows you to create from stone of different sizes and shapes, smooth, beautiful pillars with minimal cost time. In this case, two modules assembled from boards in the form of a hollow parallelepiped are used as formwork for stone fence supports. Its internal dimensions are equal to the parameters of the future pillar, and the height is no more than 50 cm. The modules should be easy to disassemble, so it is better to use self-tapping screws for fastening.

Prepare a concrete solution from the following ingredients: cement - 1/3 bucket; sand - ½ bucket; gravel ½ bucket. Water should be added so much that a thick, well-kept mixture is obtained.

One of the modules is installed strictly horizontally so that the support pipe is in its center, stones are laid out around the perimeter. At the same time, one should try to place them so that the gaps between them and the inner surface of the formwork are minimal, and the stone itself lies as tightly as possible. After the first row is laid out, it is poured with concrete. Next, the second row is laid out and so on until the formwork is completely filled. Concrete must be bayoneted to get rid of voids.

Now fix the second module on the first module with screws, check its horizontalness and continue working. A day later, when the concrete hardens, the lower formwork is disassembled, removed, assembled again, attached to the upper edge of the second module, and so on to the very top of the column.

Do not forget about the mortgages, to which the sections will subsequently be attached.

While the solution hardens on the upper sections of the stone fence support, it is already possible to start finishing work below. For them, you will need a stiff brush, a piece of foam rubber and a scraper - metal tool having a sharp tooth at the end. The work itself is as follows:

  • existing voids are filled with cement;
  • when the cement hardens, the material is cleaned of excess mortar with a brush;
  • the seams are cleaned, and their jointing is performed with a scraper, that is, grooves of the required depth (about 1 cm) are made, which will give the column relief and a more attractive appearance;
  • with the help of a piece of foam rubber, the stone is finally washed off.

Don't put off stitching! Over time, the solution will harden, and it will be difficult to make it.

After the column is completely ready, its top must be covered with a metal cap, tile, decorative stone - any material that can provide moisture protection to the column.

Section mounting

There are options here. Experienced craftsmen stretch twine between the posts, which serves as their guide. A layer of cement is laid on the foundation and the first layer of stones is laid out, trying to place them with the even side out, then poured with concrete. When it hardens, put the second and subsequent layers.

If experience is not enough, then it is better to build sections in the same way as pillars - with the preliminary construction of formwork. The process is the same, only now it is not necessary to try to lay the stone close to the boards. Small bumps in the laying of spans of stone fences are quite acceptable. Consider some nuances:

  • if round stones are used, then the formwork, alas, will not help, and the work will have to be done “by eye”;
  • concrete is poured in layers, each layer must harden, depending on the weather, from one to two days;
  • do not immediately make a high formwork - you will not be able to qualitatively pierce the concrete - it is better to build it up gradually;
  • do not forget to check the verticality and horizontality of the structure;
  • so that all sections have the same height, at the last stages of laying the sections, measure them with a tape measure and choose stones of the right size;
  • immediately perform the jointing of the seams, as in the construction of pillars.
  • on top of the section, be sure to cover the gable metal roofing or tiles for waterproofing.

Now it remains only to concrete a slightly inclined section along the fence so that water does not accumulate there, and take a proud look at our handiwork.

A little fantasy

Today, you can build a fence of fashionable ragged stone, highlighting the design of the space around the house, and bringing it closer to the natural style. To make it from ordinary cobblestone, it is enough to split the stones with the edge of a sledgehammer. The result is a flat, easy-to-lay and beautiful design material.

You can build a gabion. This French word literally translates as "stone in the net." That is what he is. A mesh of the desired configuration is simply created and natural material of the desired size is poured into it. Such a fence is easy to create, original design, practicality and low maintenance in the future.

For those who would like to build a fence around the house of exclusive design, you can create whole pictures on your fence.

Strong, aesthetically pleasing and durable stone fencing can be an excellent protection for your home. To build a stone fence is quite within the power of every resident of a country house, the main thing is to try hard.

Pros and cons of stone fencing

Stone is one of the most common materials used to build fences. Stone fencing is a weighty argument that buyers take into account when buying a house.

Advantages of stone fences:

  1. Strength. It is quite difficult to break or make a hole in such a fence, without special devices and tools are indispensable, which means that your home will be under good protection.
  2. Durability. A stone fence can last for many years, centuries-old buildings are known, which become architectural monuments. Such fences easily endure adverse weather conditions: heat and cold, winds and rains.
  3. Presentability. Fencing buildings made of stone always catch the eye, because they are beautiful, moreover, they often testify to the wealth of the owners.
  4. Compatibility with other materials. The stone is easily assembled when building a fence with wooden and metal fragments. Often, forged metal delights or wooden elements become decorations for a stone fence.
  5. Fire resistance. A stone fence will become an effective fence against the penetration of fire into the territory of a suburban area from the outside.
  6. Environmental Safety. Stone is a natural material, so you can be one hundred percent sure that there are no dangerous effects of stone buildings on human health.
  7. No size restrictions. A stone fence can be built in the dimensions that are necessary according to the design idea, there are no "prohibitions" on the parameters, the stones can be laid out to the required height and width.

With all the positive characteristics of this material, some disadvantages of a stone fence should be taken into account:

  1. High cost. Stone is an expensive material, its installers also value their work not cheap, so a stone fence is a pleasure for wealthy people. It is possible to save money if you build such a fence yourself and collect stones for the construction of the fence.
  2. "Pickiness" of stone structures. The significant weight of such buildings implies the presence of a solid foundation under them, therefore stone structures need a reliable soil foundation, areas with soil vibrations, with nearby groundwater are unacceptable. A reliable and durable foundation is a prerequisite for the construction of a stone fence.
  3. The complexity of the process (the construction of a stone fence requires a lot of time and effort).

Choice of stone material

Having weighed all the pros and cons of stone fencing structures near houses or summer cottages, it is necessary to decide on the material from which the fence will be built.

To build a stone fence, you can use:

  • cobblestone;
  • pebbles;
  • limestone;
  • sandstone;
  • dolomite stone;
  • granite, etc.

Each of the listed materials helps to solve certain problems and, accordingly, is suitable for different protective structures. An important point when choosing a stone is its cost, which can also be different.

Preparatory stages

Like any serious project, building a stone fence with your own hands requires pre-training. First you need to decide on the place and size of the future building, calculate, select and purchase material, acquire the necessary tools. The preparation also includes cleaning and leveling the site for the future fence. Any debris, trees and plants will interfere with the construction of the protective structure.

Based on the cost of the selected material and the dimensions of the fence, we draw up an estimate and figure out whether such construction is within our power. Of course, a self-built stone fence saves the cost of a team of builders. Therefore, we will try to do without hired workers, applying our own strengths and skills.

Area calculation

  1. Measure the width strip base fence and add eight centimeters on each side. For example, 45 + 16 = 61 cm (0.61 m) - this is the width of the foundation part of the fence.
  2. Measure the length of each side of the fence (from corner posts). For example, let's take the length of each side - 10 meters.
  3. The base area of ​​each side of the stone fence is calculated as 10 m, multiplied by 0.61 m. It turns out 6.1 m 2.
  4. Further, this figure is multiplied by the number of sides of the fence (usually 4, but there may be options if one of the sides is being built by neighbors, etc.) 6.1 x 4 = 24.4 m².
  5. If the fence is not solid, but there are sections with a gate or garage doors, then subtract their dimensions from the resulting 24.4 m².
  6. When calculating the area, the area of ​​​​the pillars is also taken into account (if they are also made of stone).

In general, calculating the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe foundation of a stone fence is a purely individual matter; every novice builder can cope with this. If you doubt your abilities, contact the specialists who will make all the necessary calculations and draw up a project.

Fence dimensions

Depending on the functions assigned to the stone fence, the acceptable dimensions of this structure are selected. Fences can be low, in which case they play a decorative role rather than a protective one. Some owners use a stone in the fence to decorate their homes, here we are talking about the decorative function of a stone structure around a house or cottage. Such fences can be of completely different sizes and configurations.

The average parameters of a solid solid fence, behind which you can hide from prying eyes, are as follows: height - 2 meters, width of spans between racks - 2.5 meters, width of supporting pillars - half a meter.

Material selection

A fence built of cobblestone will be very durable and retain its natural flavor. However, under natural conditions, the choice of color for such a material is not very rich. You can dream up and arrange the cobblestones according to shades, or you can not go in cycles in color, relying on intuition.

Cobblestone can be acquired by walking through the fields, but it is better to purchase it in specialized stores. Usually they lay out a fence of stone specimens with one flat side, if there is none, then they cut the cobblestone. It is desirable that the cobblestones be approximately the same size. This will greatly speed up and simplify the construction process.

For the construction of complex structures, as well as for the design and strengthening of corners, pebbles and gravel should be taken. These small stones are also suitable for laying out patterns in a stone fence. Fencing entirely from this small stone is rarely made, it is used to fill the metal mesh in the construction of gabions.

Rubble stone is suitable for "playing" with the design. Buta produces unique beautiful spans with a unique configuration. The length of the edges of such stones varies between 55–400 mm, which is what original designers use in their style decisions. Rubble stone can be used both for the construction of the base of the fence, and for its finishing.

Dolomite has a big plus - a flat shape, it is obtained during blasting in quarries. Such a stone is more often used as a material for cladding, but its use as the basis of a fence is not excluded.

Limestone fencing is easier to build because it is softer than other stones, but this material is not suitable for building fences in areas with a humid climate. Limestone (shell stone) does not withstand high humidity and low temperatures, and buildings from it begin to quickly collapse. If you nevertheless took this stone as the basis for the construction, then in order to extend its service, try to treat the limestone with special compounds - water repellents.

Durable, resistant to sub-zero temperatures material - sandstone. It has been used by builders since ancient times. various works. The advantages of this material are in its multifaceted color shades (there are stones of green-blue, yellow, red, brown colors on sale), which allows them to be used in accordance with design decoration the entire area. During construction, you can take sandstone with a different surface - chipped or polished. Sandstone is often used even when laying the foundation, this is due to its high strength.

Material calculation

Before proceeding with mathematical operations, you need to determine the entire list of necessary materials (in addition to the stone itself):

  • material for waterproofing;
  • fittings for poles;
  • reinforcing bars (d = 10–12 mm);
  • boards for the construction of formwork;
  • sand, gravel, cement.

On the Internet resources you can find programs that allow you to calculate the required amount of materials.

The base of the fence is an expanded area for pillars and "ribbons" between them, filled with concrete. Piles are used to strengthen this structure. An example of the calculation can be seen in the figure below. The calculation algorithm can be as follows:

  1. Calculation of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe foundation of the supporting column - we multiply the values ​​\u200b\u200bof the width, length and height.
  2. The total amount of concrete for the posts will be equal to the area of ​​​​the foundation of 1 column, multiplied by the number of supports.
  3. Volume concrete mix for the base of the spans between the posts is calculated by multiplying the length, width and height of this part of the fence.
  4. The number of spans multiplied by the number obtained in the previous paragraph gives overall volume concrete to fill all spans.
  5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 to determine the amount of concrete mix for piles.
  6. Adding all the volumes, we find the value of the total amount of concrete for the fence.

Required tool

In order for the work to be argued and not to stop, try to stock up in advance with everything necessary for construction. You will need:

  • shovels of different types (shovel, bayonet);
  • concrete mixer (or improvised means that replace it);
  • sets of containers of various sizes (for concrete, water);
  • hammers, sledgehammers (for crushing stones, driving piles, etc.);
  • plumb or level;
  • roulette;
  • a device for measuring angles (an ordinary square of large sizes is suitable);
  • screwdriver, nails, screws;
  • welding machine (can be replaced with wire) - for fastening reinforcement bars;
  • stakes and cord (for marking).

Stages of building a stone fence

After carrying out the preparatory work, you can proceed to the actual construction of the fence. This process is time-consuming and difficult, so you should stock up on patience and perseverance.

Foundation laying

Strip foundation - the basis and guarantee that the fence will last a long time. This structure must be continuous, even in those places where there will be openings (gates, gates, etc.).

The sequence of actions during the construction of the foundation of the fence is as follows:

  1. With the help of a cord and pegs, we mark the future fence. You can use the services of professionals to determine the boundaries and locations of the fence posts.

    Fence marking - a necessary stage in the construction of the fence

  2. On the marked area, we dig a trench, the width of which should be 8 centimeters more than the width of the fence on each side. For example, the width of the fence is supposed to be 30 cm, which means that you need to dig a trench 46 cm wide.
  3. We lay a layer of sand at the bottom of the dug hole and tamp it down. From henchmen wooden materials(boards, plywood, etc.) we construct the formwork (slightly higher than the proposed strip foundation), we lay the reinforcement.
  4. With the help of a special shovel (screw) we make holes for piles up to 70 cm deep and 15 cm wide. We also place sand at the bottom of these recesses and tamp them down.
  5. On top of the sand we pour our gravel 10 cm thick.

    On the marked area, we dig a trench, the width of which should be 8 centimeters more than the width of the fence on each side

  6. Then we fill the trench with formwork and piles with a concrete mixture. The reinforcement must be covered with concrete by at least 20 mm. Mandatory Action- compaction of concrete, for this purpose a deep vibrator is used. Concrete should be poured in a continuous stream, at one time, avoiding the separation of this process for several days. Hollow concrete cubes - foundation cups - will help in strengthening the entire fence structure. You can make them yourself, or you can buy them ready-made, but you will have to pay a fairly large amount.
  7. After pouring, we withstand more than a week, while it is desirable to build a blind area - to protect the foundation. You can use sheets of roofing material or thick polyethylene. Periodic moistening of the poured foundation will give the structure additional strength and protect it from cracking.
  8. After the concrete has hardened, remove the formwork and clean upper layer foundation from debris and dirt.

    The poured concrete is covered with roofing material

Stone preparation

While the foundation is going through the solidification stage, you can not waste time and prepare the stone. Sorting, cleaning and drying of material are mandatory manipulations during construction. If the stones are too convex, their surface is cut off with a hammer and other tools, trying to give them a flat shape.

Larger stones are set aside for the installation of support posts, small specimens are prepared for use in the construction of spans. You can also disassemble the stones by color, dividing suitable color shades into groups.

Pole installation

The rigidity of the structure and its reliability largely depend on the supporting pillars. Racks are installed on concrete bowls that were built earlier. Support poles can be built in a variety of ways. It is convenient to use sliding formwork for these purposes (a box of boards required dimensions, no bottom). This formwork is located in such a way that the channel is in the middle, then the solution is poured.

The following manipulations are repeated for each row of stones:

  • select stones of the right size;
  • they are laid tightly against the walls of the formwork;
  • take out the stacked stones;
  • prepare a solution;
  • stones are laid and fixed with mortar.

Watch the solution carefully - it should not be too liquid. When the formwork is filled to the end with rows of stones with mortar, you need to “build up” the formwork by placing a second wooden box without a bottom on the first and fastening them with self-tapping screws. All actions are repeated until the second box is filled. Then you need to wait at least a day for the resulting part of the column to dry out, and continue this process until the construction of a support on desired height. The first part of the formwork must be removed, leaving the second, and the third level of support must be attached to it, etc. Mortar must be added to the seams between the stones (cement - 1 part, sand - 3 parts). Excess solution and dirt must be removed foam sponge dipped in water.

Photo gallery: installation steps for supporting fence posts

The first stage of the installation of pillars: the stones are placed in a sliding formwork and poured with mortar After pouring concrete and gaining strength, the formwork is disassembled and rises higher - so that its lower part covers the top of the already cast column by a few centimeters The final stage: the column is cast to the desired height

Stone laying

In parallel with the installation of pillars, it is possible to carry out work on laying stones in spans. Optimal size stones - 20–25 cm. The sequence of actions is as follows:

  1. Apply cement mortar to the base of the foundation (cement:sand = 1:3).
  2. Lay out the first row of stones, turning them flat side up.
  3. Between the stones, pour a solution into which you can add a color scheme of a certain color. To avoid hardening of the solution, these manipulations are carried out quickly, without rest.
  4. After laying one row, give it time to harden and only after that continue laying the stones.

Video: building a stone fence

Tips from seasoned builders:

  1. When working with the solution, make sure that its particles do not fall on the front of the stones. If you notice the solution on the stones, then it must be urgently removed, preventing hardening. If, nevertheless, areas of stones with a hardened solution have formed, use a metal brush mounted on a drill to remove it.
  2. Start laying out spans from the outer borders.
  3. Use a cord or rope stretched from the beginning to the end of the span - for orientation in laying rows of stones, so that the fence is smooth, without distortions.
  4. Use dressing - laying the stones of the upper row with support from the stones of the second or third underlying row.
  5. To get a smooth edge of the fence, select stones of the same height for the last row. The same result can be achieved by applying a cement screed.

There is an old way of laying stone that does not require mortar. In this case, the building will not be fragile, as it might seem at first glance. If you are interested in this method - watch the video on this topic.

Video: laying stone without mortar

Completion of stone fence construction

To make your structure look neat and not look like a pile of stones, you need to give it a finished look. For this, stitching is done. The solution fills the seams between the stones at different depths, due to which it is possible to achieve decorative look fence.

The most convenient time for such manipulations is 3-4 hours after laying the stones, later it will be more difficult to do this, because the solution will become tight and less pliable. For jointing, use trowels, scrapers, a metal brush, foam rubber and hydrochloric acid solution (30%), do not forget about safety precautions and put on rubber gloves. To divert excess liquid, special caps are put on the pillars.

Decorating a stone fence is a purely individual matter. Can add decorative elements from wood, forged fragments, drawings from small stone, giving the fence a special beauty and originality.

Building a stone fence with your own hands is a long and laborious process, but the result will please its creator and everyone around. Try to build a stone fence yourself and you will not regret it!

Since ancient times, the stone has been associated with solidity, invincibility. It is not surprising that even today it is actively used to form fences, fences in areas and around houses. But we must thoroughly approach the creation of such barriers, because only then they can reliably protect personal space from intruders and at the same time demonstrate real beauty and elegance.

Pros and cons of a stone fence

A stone fence has a number of significant advantages. In particular, masonry is guaranteed to last at least 50 years, and if it is done correctly and in accordance with all the rules, then a much longer period. The complete naturalness of the material allows you to eliminate any environmental and sanitary risk by 100%. By varying the types of blocks and fractions, you can change the price within a fairly wide range.

In contrast to the use of wood, the risk of fire is zero. Any work on the construction of a fence made of stone parts can be done independently.

The stone is easily included in compositions and can be used against the backdrop of any landscape. Its compatibility with natural and synthetic materials is very high. It is important to remember at the same time weak positions: some types of stone materials are very expensive, and in order for the whole structure to be strong and stable, you will need to put a foundation under it. But, if you independently build a fence around a private house, you can save a lot.

Material selection

In the construction of fences, the most different types stones, and one of the most common solutions is cobblestone. "Boulder stones", as they are sometimes called, are outwardly simple and at the same time quite strong.

It is not necessary to choose traditional gray boulders - there are also red-brown options on the market. As for the boot, this is also a very popular solution.

Widespread are barriers created with gravel filling the grid. The use of heterogeneous fractions allows you to make fences of various shapes, sometimes large and small varieties of rock are used simultaneously. Dolomite, mined in the mountains, has excellent protective and decorative properties at the same time.

Limestone can be quite diverse, but whatever it is - marble-like, shell rock, and so on - it will be easy to process the stone. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the intensive absorption of water, which is prevented by treatment with special reagents.

A variety of artificial stone suitable for the construction of fences is the so-called "French". To produce this material, a special kind of machine is used. In essence, “French stone” refers to cinder blocks that are empty inside, which were obtained by vibration pressing.

Additionally, the application of compounds that enhance its resistance to moisture helps to improve the material. The appearance of fencing made of artificial stone is no worse than that of options made from natural materials.

Moreover, there are a number of advantages:

  • the highest period of service, unattainable for natural blocks;
  • low price;
  • the ability to create any texture of your choice (torn, chipped, completely smooth or rough when touched);
  • lightening the load on the base;
  • strictly standardized sizes.

An important characteristic is always the appearance of a particular material. So, for example, fences based on wild rubble stone are white, yellow, black and blue. In addition to pure colors, their shades can also be used. By the way the booth looks, it has different names - "flagstone", "bed" and so on.

Bulk fences began to be used relatively recently, but they have already gained considerable popularity among developers.

Pergons, for example, are able to decorate the landscape and Vacation home. By varying the filling of the structure, it is possible to create an unusually good look. If the structure is done correctly, it will last as long as a traditional brick barrier.

The shell looks very good, but we must remember that wet cold weather will quickly destroy it, so this solution is not suitable for lowlands.

It is more reliable to fill the bulk structure with natural Dagestan stone. It can be represented by various breeds and is superior in quality to natural raw materials from most flat quarries. If it is necessary to save money as much as possible, then you need to use a gabion, filling it with construction or repair waste, broken bricks and all sorts of similar materials.

Taking a cobblestone somewhere in the field, you can significantly complicate further work. Much easier and easier to immediately contact specialized stores. If there are no special preferences for the appearance of the fence and its elements, you need to take stones with one flat face. Complex structures are created on the basis of pebbles and gravel, as the easiest materials to mold. They should also be used when working on the corners of the future fence.

With the help of rubble stone, you can form gracefully looking long spans, each of which seems unique and unrepeatable.

How to make?

Design

To accept correct solution and it is impossible to build a long-serving fence, if you do not take into account three key factors:

  • groundwater (how plentiful they are, how high they stand, and how great the chemical aggressiveness is);
  • properties of the surrounding area;
  • soil quality and predicted atmospheric impacts.

Next, you need to pay attention to how great the skills in the construction industry are, or how much money a person is ready to give to the performers for creating a fence. So, for example, the combination of stone with wood allows you to make the appearance of the territory more harmonious. But achieving the desired result is not easy, and without special training it is completely impossible. A stone in a mesh or a gabion based on thick steel wire is a simpler technology, while guaranteeing the highest strength.

Most often, natural stone and brick are combined, which is used in the main part of the structure, and stone blocks go to the base and in the intervals from one pillar to another. If gabions are used, then framing with green plants will help to make them more attractive. But such a decision should be immediately taken into account in the project in order to prevent serious errors.

On the drawings, the locations of all pillars, the attachment points of gates and gates, the levels of each side of the site should be marked.

building

The first step in building a stone fence is always pouring the foundation. There are two competing technologies: using concrete or laying rubble stones on ordinary cement mortar. The second option is attractive for its simplicity, but its reliability is a big question.

In any case, a completely dry base is a prerequisite for success. Until it hardens, construction cannot continue.

In order not to be mistaken, the outer corners of the proposed fence are marked with stakes and a cord is stretched. A strip foundation with reinforcing elements, which is 0.15-0.2 m wider than the ground structure, will help to avoid subsidence of the earth and the distortion of the fence.

After that, you must perform the following steps:

  • waterproofing;
  • stone laying;
  • processing of the resulting seams.

Moisture protection is created in two stages. Even before pouring concrete, it will be necessary to cover the walls, recesses and its bottom with roofing material. When the filled layer dries, the roofing material is placed again, but already on the finished site. This will prevent penetration ground water inside the fence and its gradual destruction.

Laying a stone is quite difficult, the main difficulty is usually the exact selection of blocks in size and configuration. Cobblestones can even be cut according to the required parameters, but this is a very laborious and not so fast job. Sandstone and pre-sanded cobblestone can be laid in exactly the same way as simple bricks. Rubble elements according to laying technology are closer to the formwork.

Regardless of the specific material, pillars are first formed, each of which is made wider than the span.

It is most convenient to tie the supports to the edges of the spans by ligation, especially when angular stones are chosen for masonry. The dressing is formed from the first two stones on both sides, then the 1st and 2nd support row is created, the initial row of the span.

It is recommended to start creating masonry with stones of the most regular shape and the same size as possible. Other specimens are suitable when you need to lay walls, and the smallest fragments and fragments serve to fill voids and crevices.

It is important to take into account that wild stone before starting work must be washed in running water . Those areas that will be in contact with concrete, it is advisable to coat with latex glue. To keep it on an initially smooth surface, it is even recommended to cover it with notches. The binder solution is best made from cement, clean washed sand and PVA glue in a ratio of 1: 3: 0.25.

In most cases, stone fences are laid using the block masonry method, when rectangular or almost rectangular elements are used. Selecting a more carefully processed stone can make the fence stronger, and if you introduce relatively rough blocks, you can make the surface visually more attractive.

The horizontal mounting method involves the use of flat cobblestones; similar elements can be used for vertical placement. In rubble masonry, rounded stones are used, which are placed close to the formwork before pouring the mortar.

Seam finishing is very important after all, if it is not carried out or carried out poorly, the appearance of the fence will become worse. Too deep a seam makes sense even to close with additional portions of the solution. Heavily contaminated stone is cleaned with metal brushes.

It should be noted that there are building stones that require the removal of uncured mortar that has fallen into areas where it is not needed. When there is a need to adjust the design of the fence, for example, to eliminate defects that have appeared, it is advisable to use chipped granite.

The first step of finishing is the application of a facade primer, which will need to be covered with glue or cement with plasticizer additives. Only on a surface prepared in this way can granite be fixed. If you do not like its appearance, you should use other flat materials and structural plaster.

As for the necessary building materials, cement of the M300 or M400 category is used as a link. If crushed stone is used, then it should be of medium fractions. The optimal choice for the construction of the fence is also considered sand fractions from 0.15 to 5 mm, reinforcement (rods) with a diameter of 0.8-1.2 cm. Experts recommend making formwork from semi-edged boards, and thick steel pipe take a length of 35-40 dm.

Suitable for work:

  • wooden stakes;
  • building cord (6 skeins are usually enough);
  • saws for wood and metal;
  • roulette;
  • shovels (at least earthmoving and bucket);
  • plumb;
  • tamping devices;
  • spirit level;
  • trowel;
  • brush with hard wire;
  • large bucket set.

As a final decor is widely used:

  • clay tiles;
  • graceful lanterns;
  • forged elements;
  • gratings.

Calculations

Even before the start of work and the purchase of materials, you need to make competent calculations. It is necessary to clarify the boundaries of land ownership and the area reserved for the cast shadow. Only then can you find out what exactly the height of the fence should be, and where it should be placed. Based on the calculations, an estimate is formed, building materials and tools are purchased (if necessary).

Almost always, a height of 200-220 cm is enough, and the number of future supports is calculated on the assumption that spans are 250-320 cm.

How to make a fence of wild stone, see the following video.

Beautiful examples

The technical aspects of building stone fences are very important. But their “appearance” is no less relevant, because it is by it that your aesthetic taste and ability to design space will be judged.

Antique hedge, decorated with relief (protruding) stones of a pinkish hue, rectangular clusters of which are framed by rich yellow brick, looks very elegant and fresh. A good alternative to it is seemingly chaotic masonry, the harmony between the elements of which is supported by the choice of a limited number of colors. The photo shows how well such a fence is perceived, reflected in the pond and adjacent to a low stone border of the same color.

Finishing a country house fence using a combination of gray and pinkish stone can also be a pretty idea. Rough-shaped blocks, fastened with gray cement mortar, turn out to be attractive if you choose the right combination and use pillars that rise above the main canvas.

By abandoning strict classicism, one can significantly expand the range of acceptable design moves. It will look extremely original, for example, a “tree” stylized right on the wall, assembled from stones that are somewhat different in color and shape from the rest of the material.

To make the composition even more advantageous, it is worth putting them in a relief way with the pattern going beyond the frontal plane of the fence.

Here's another one custom solution: a wavy line of dark color, launched across the entire surface of a white stone massif. Another way to set off the beauty of natural material is its landscaping: some parts are covered with greenery more strongly, others are left partially or completely open. It is important that the plants are discreet, then the pristine beauty of the wild stone will be revealed as fully as possible.

A very large difference in the size of stone blocks can be turned from a minus into a plus if the composition is properly thought out. To emphasize the difference and make the appearance of the fence more interesting, the use of stone of different tones helps. You can even introduce dark and light blocks into one wall - this will only improve the design qualities of the fence.

A mesh gabion filled with a relatively small (slightly smaller than the average fraction) stone seems to many people to be something uninteresting and outwardly faded. But you can use the original move: make the barrier not the same height, but in the form of a "ladder": each next section is slightly lower than the previous one. The “green gap” should also be recognized as not the worst solution, when the upper third of the gabion is separated from its lower part by a strip through which branches and leaves of shrubs come out.

Our distant ancestors always knew exactly what kind of fence to build around their home. And this is confirmed by numerous archaeological finds - fragments of stone fences. It is this reliable, durable, time-resistant material that is ideal for fencing modern buildings.

Currently, the construction market offers consumers the widest choice of materials from which a private house fence can be built. In order not to get lost in this variety, first determine for yourself what type of materials you prefer. If the choice is on a stone, you must understand what its strengths and weaknesses are.

Advantages of stone for building a fence:

  • strength: resistance to impact natural phenomena and to physical impact;
  • the availability of certain types of stone (for example, cobblestone);
  • the ability to combine a variety of materials with masonry and create original structures;
  • a stone fence is very beautiful and increases the status of the owner of the house;
  • stone fence will serve for many years;
  • fire resistance;
  • environmental friendliness.

Disadvantages of stone for building a fence:

  • the complexity of construction;
  • higher financial costs in comparison with other materials;
  • the need for a foundation.

Having made the final decision to build a capital stone fence, you should choose from two of its types. Distinguish:

  • fence made of natural (natural) stone;
  • fence made of artificial (decorative) stone.

Stone fence: varieties of natural materials

Natural stone is quite expensive, so it would be useful to ask what types of stone are common in your area of ​​\u200b\u200bresidence and what properties they have.

Dolomite. Mined in quarries by blasting. This explains the appearance of the material - plates of various thicknesses and sizes. Subsequently, dolomite undergoes additional processing and grinding. The undoubted advantage of dolomite is that it can be given absolutely any shape. When erecting a dolomite fence, you can choose both arbitrary and geometric masonry.

Granite. Mined in the form of blocks and plates. The stone has high strength, durability and high water resistance, has a rich color range: black, red-burgundy and white-gray shades. The characteristic granularity of the texture of granite is given by inclusions of various minerals. After processing, it can acquire a different texture - from rough (absorbing light) to polished. It is rarely used in the construction of fences due to the very high cost.

Limestone. This rock is of organic origin, which consists mainly of calcium carbonate. The stone is durable, high-strength, has a homogeneous structure and is easy to process. However, its use in construction is limited by climatic conditions: at low temperatures and high humidity, it quickly collapses. The structure of limestone is different:

  • marble-like (as an intermediate link between limestone and marble);
  • dense (has a fine-grained structure, frost-resistant forms are found);
  • porous - consists of individual spherical limestone grains (shell rock, oolitic and pisolithic rocks, and some others belong to the subspecies of porous limestone).

Cobblestone. So called natural stone, which has a rounded shape. Typically, cobblestones are represented by rocks such as diorite, quartzite and basalt. This type of stone is most often used in the construction of fences and barriers. Cobblestone is widely distributed in our country, has natural strength and good workability. It has an affordable cost compared to other natural stones. Its size varies from a large potato to the size of a watermelon. Larger boulders are called boulders.

Pebble. It is extremely rarely used on its own in the construction of fences due to its very small size. It is a natural stone of a rounded shape, which is formed under the influence of wind and water. Some types of pebbles are produced by crushing and grinding (for example, marble or granite pebbles).

Stone fence: features and varieties of buta

Rubble stone (but) is a large, always irregularly shaped fragments of mountains or rocks. The length of the edge of the rubble stone is from 15 to 50 cm. The rubble is distinguished by the type of stone (limestone, dolomite, cobblestone, sandstone, less often granite) and by strength (low, medium and high).

According to the form, the bottles are divided into:

  1. Flagstone(sawn but). It is a polygonal tile with a rough surface. Its thickness varies from 1 to 7 cm. Plates up to 2.5 cm thick are convenient for building a fence from rubble stone.
  2. Bedded but. It is represented mainly by such rocks as limestone and sandstone. The slabs are over 7 cm thick.
  3. broken stone(wild) - usually a three-dimensional polygonal slab. Due to the rough embossed surface and the richness of the color range, ragged stone is often used for construction. various structures, including fences.

Stone fence: varieties of artificial stone

Artificial (decorative) stone for building a fence is becoming increasingly popular due to the fact that it is much more affordable than natural. But not everyone can distinguish natural stone from high-quality decorative stone in appearance.

There are only 3 main types of artificial stone:

  1. Porcelain stoneware. In its production, clay and mineral additives are used, which are pressed under very high pressure, followed by firing. Ready product most of all resembles ceramic tiles. Possesses durability and resistance to differences of temperatures. External texture varies:
  • glossy;
  • matte;
  • embossed;
  • glazed.
  1. Agglomerates. The main component for their production is polyester resin. Various fillers in the form of stone chips are added to it: granite, marble, limestone. This type of artificial stone is mainly used for decorating furniture and interior items.
  2. Artificial stone based on concrete. In its production, various fillers from crumbs, pumice, expanded clay, coloring pigments, etc. are used. fake diamond two ways:
  • vibrocasting method (the mixture is poured into molds resembling an imprint of natural stone, followed by vibrocompaction);
  • vibrocompression method (a concrete mixture poured into a mold is subjected to vibration and a certain pressure).

The method of vibrocompression based on concrete produces the so-called french stone. Fence from french stone easy to make and build. In fact, the "Frenchman" is a hollow wall block. It is covered on top waterproof materials. Fences made of such artificial stone are quite durable (serve for 50 years or more), if a high-quality solution was used in their manufacture.

Stages of building a fence made of natural stone

Preparatory stage

  • drawing up a plan and estimated budget;
  • determination of the construction site of the fence;
  • marking the construction site (with the help of a peg, you need to mark the line of the future fence, as well as gates and gates);
  • purchase of stone and other building materials (taking into account accurate measurements of the future structure).

Foundation laying

Fences made of natural stone are built only on a strip foundation, which is based on brick or reinforced concrete blocks. This is necessary so that the structure, the weight of which is large, turns out to be reliable and durable. The stages of building a foundation for a stone fence are as follows:

  • dig a trench 35-50 cm wide (15 cm wider than the fence itself) and 70 cm deep (if a fence is planned to be more than 2 meters high, then the depth is increased in the ratio: 10 cm per 1 m of the fence);
  • determine the location of the supporting pillars (in increments of 2.5-3 m) and erect them using one of the methods described below;
  • pour crushed stone or sand (3-5 cm) at the bottom of the finished trench;
  • compact the layer;
  • lay the frame of reinforcement (diameter 10-14 mm);
  • install formwork from edged boards(Approximately every meter, install supports, and lay crossbars on vertical racks);
  • fill the trench with prepared mortar (grade 300 cement, gravel and sand) or brickwork;
  • to protect the foundation from moisture, install a blind area (a kind of threshold with a slope from the structure). Water, flowing down the blind area, will not accumulate at the base of the fence;
  • the foundation should dry for about 2 weeks under the film.

Installation of support poles

Support pillars for a stone fence are no less important part of the construction than the foundation: it is on them that the bulk of the spans will rely. Taking into account the fact that a natural stone fence is a massive structure, it is better to use concrete support pillars:

  • ready-made supports of factory production;
  • filling supports, which are special forms for pouring the solution;
  • independent production of formwork for supporting pillars.

Finished support poles require significant financial investment. They are installed on a pre-prepared brick base directly into the poured concrete.

Block supports do not require large expenditures and are easy to build. They are different size, configurations and textures. In addition, in the construction of block supports it is convenient to conduct a cable for lighting or video surveillance.

Installing concrete poles is easy:

  • string hollow blocks on the reinforcement bars fixed in the foundation;
  • fill the cavity with prepared cement mortar;
  • make sure that the seams between the blocks do not exceed 11 mm;
  • when the solution hardens - the support column is completely ready.

You can also build support pillars for a stone fence on your own in the following way:

  • foundation glasses are poured in the trench (concrete cube with a hole in the middle);
  • reinforcement is installed in the middle and fixed with a solution;
  • on top of the foundation glass, a prepared square formwork is installed (height and width 30-40 cm);
  • a layer of stones is laid tightly to each other inside the formwork (flat side out). If necessary, the shape of the stones can be corrected with a hammer;
  • stones are poured with cement mortar (1 bucket of cement + 3 buckets of sand + ¼ bucket of glue);
  • actions are repeated up to the selected height of the support column (they should be 15-20 cm higher than the spans);
  • finished supports are left to dry for 1-2 weeks;
  • special caps are installed for decoration and removal of precipitation.

span construction

Laying spans is the most crucial stage in the construction of a stone fence:

  • a solution is prepared from cement and medium-sifted sand in a ratio of 1: 3 (it should be thick enough and not spread);
  • if it's stones relatively small size, then between supporting pillars install formwork boards;
  • if the stones are large, a guide thread is pulled between the pillars;
  • a solution is placed on the foundation;
  • stones are laid symmetrically on both sides of the span, and the voids between them are filled with mortar;
  • after laying the first row, he is allowed to dry and harden for a day;
  • the laying of stones in subsequent rows must necessarily be with dressing (when each upper stone rests on 2 or 3 lower ones, blocking the seams between the lower stones);
  • for laying the last row, stones must be chosen the same in height;
  • on the top row, a coating is made of slabs (70 mm high) or a screed with concrete mortar.

Stitching

The seams between the masonry are divided into deep and shallow. Deep seams give volume to a stone fence. For the procedure of jointing seams, you must have in stock:

  • a scraper (a strip of metal 150 mm long, 4 mm thick and 2.5 mm wide, which ends with a “tooth” 20 mm high and 10 mm wide);
  • foam cuttings;
  • flat wire brush.

The seams should be embroidered no earlier than 3-4 hours after laying, until the mortar has become too tight:

  • using a wire brush, the masonry and seams are cleaned of excess bonding mortar;
  • the grooves of the desired depth are cleaned with a scraper (the rectangular shape of the grooves will look beautiful);
  • the process of jointing is completed by washing using pieces of foam rubber, a brush and a solution of 30% hydrochloric acid.

Natural stone fence: photo






Artificial stone fence: photo





Construction of a stone fence: video

The use of natural stone in construction has positive and negative aspects. If, in particular, we consider the construction of a fence, then the undoubted advantages of the material are the following:

  • The degree of wear of such material is practically zero. This is confirmed by the amazing preservation of stone buildings with a long history to this day.
  • Without losing its quality, the stone endures any climatic conditions, be it wind, frost, rain or summer heat.
  • The natural essence of the material indicates its environmental safety for humans and other beings.
  • A stone fence is not afraid of fire, so the design can prevent the fire from spreading to the site.
  • The stone fence has an impressive appearance and is in perfect harmony with the buildings and the surrounding landscape.
  • The cost and shades of natural stone provide extensive opportunities for its selection.
Along with the positive aspects, there are still disadvantages in the construction of stone fences. One of them is the massiveness of the structure, which necessitates a device for it. a strong foundation. Other inconveniences include the complexity and cost of work compared to budget options fence made of wood or metal mesh.

What stone to use for fence installation


The stone for fences is used very different. It can be granite, cobblestone, shell rock, but, pebbles or sandstone. A separate group is represented by an artificial stone made from fine natural minerals. Each type is distinguished by its texture, hardness, shape and color.

The main types of stone for the construction of the fence:

  1. Granite. This is an expensive stone, but its density is comparable only to the hardness of diamond and is 2700 kg/m 3 . The mineral is of igneous origin and contains 20-30% of quartz, plagioclase and sodium spar in its composition. Him color palette presented in black, red, yellow or blue shades. Granite can be sawn and polished. In addition, the mineral can withstand 300 cycles of freezing and thawing without disturbing its structure. For this reason, many monuments are made of this material.
  2. Cobblestone. It has a red-brown color, high strength and sizes ranging from an apple to a soccer ball. Sometimes there are larger cobblestones of irregular shape. They are called boulders. Due to the absence of sharp protrusions, they provide a rough surface to the fence wall. To obtain a smooth wall, the stone is split with a sledgehammer and laid out in places of the fault.
  3. rubble stone. It consists of compressed naturally for thousands of years of quartz particles. Booth is mined in quarries by means of an explosion. Therefore, a stone always looks like a large fragment of irregular shape. Its dimensions vary between 150-450 mm. Booth is durable, water and frost resistant. If it is fired, the color of the mineral will turn crimson red, suitable for decorating a plinth or facade.
  4. river stone . It is mined on the banks of natural reservoirs. The main differences are the roundness of the shape and a rich range of colors. Properly using this when erecting a fence, you can create impressive elements of its masonry. River stone is immediately ready for laying and does not require pre-treatment.
  5. Sandstone. The composition of this natural sedimentary rock includes sand, quartz and calcite. The high strength of sandstone allows it to be used even when building a foundation. It is due to the fine-grained structure of the mineral. Sandstone is a flat stone, it is distinguished by an irregular shape and a thickness of samples from 15 to 80 mm. The natural color of the rock is usually gray, light brown or greenish, rarely black. Patterns and smooth stains are clearly visible in the structure of the stone. Sandstone is not afraid of fire, changes in its structure can occur naturally 70-80 years after mining.
  6. Fake diamond. It has a small weight compared to the mass of natural minerals. From clay, dyes and mineral additives obtained by firing ceramic granite- stone for cladding. Agglomerates are made from sand, stone chips, polyester resin and synthetic dyes. For strength, quartzite is added to the composition. The natural look of the facing plates is given by silicone templates, which are molds for casting products. No special equipment is required for the installation of the cladding. By appearance finished structure difficult to distinguish from a stone fence built from natural materials.
  7. shell rock. It is an exclusively organic mineral formed by fossilized layers of prehistoric marine organisms - shells and plankton. The shell rock has a porous structure of yellow or light brown color. When mined, the stone has a regular rectangular shape. This is due to the fact that it is easily sawn out of the rock mass. The size of each block is 380x180x180 mm. Depending on the density, the shell rock has markings from M-15 to M-35. The most dense stone contains a minimum of sand and is marked with the number 35. Due to the ancient marine origin, the shell rock is saturated with iodine and salt, they have a beneficial effect on the human body. Therefore, a site fenced with a wall of such a stone becomes a comfortable zone for life. This is the only stone that successfully resists radiation.

Stone fence installation technology

It includes determining the location of the fence, its dimensions, the selection and calculation of the required materials, as well as the direct construction of the fence, which begins with earthworks and pouring the foundation and ending with the laying of stone.

Preparation for construction


The location of the fence is usually indicated in the BTI documents that agree on its construction. If they are, it is possible to avoid disputes with neighbors about the border of territories in the future. If the documents are missing, they need to be issued. After that, you should make a drawing or draw up a diagram of the future fence, indicating its length, location of the gate, wicket and a preliminary calculation of the necessary materials.

The place under the fence must be cleared of stumps, debris, and then leveled. In accordance with the previously prepared scheme, it is necessary to mark the foundation for construction on the ground. To do this, you will need pegs and a cord. With their help, you should mark the location of each rack of the planned fence, including the entrance. A cord stretched over the pegs will allow this to be done neatly and evenly.

It is not difficult to calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe strip foundation for a stone fence for a house. First, you should determine its area between the posts, and then - the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe bases of all the fence posts. It is important to take into account that the width of the tape must be taken more than the thickness of the fence by 16 cm, that is, 8 cm on each of its sides. For example, with a stone fence thickness of 400 mm, the width of its foundation should be 560 mm.

When calculating, the width of the gate should be subtracted from the length of the fence: in this area, a strip foundation is not needed.

Selection and calculation of materials for the fence


As an example, we will choose quarrystone as the material for the fence. It has all the necessary properties: it fits well into the landscape, has the desired relief, emphasizing its natural origin.

The optimal dimensions of one section of a stone fence: height - 2 m, width - 2.5 m. Such parameters, so that it is strong and at the same time high, are quite enough. Knowing the dimensions of the fence section, it is easy to calculate its entire area.

Having decided on the number, location of the fence posts and the area of ​​\u200b\u200bits foundation, you can calculate the required amount of concrete to support the structure. At the same time, one should take into account additional quantity concrete mixture, which is necessary for pouring the base under the pillars. The result should be a strip-pile foundation with extensions for stone pillars.

To calculate the amount of the mixture, you need to know the height and width of the foundation tape, as well as the dimensions of its extensions. For convenience, the calculations are recommended to be carried out in the following order:

  • Determine the volume of concrete mix for the foundation of one column, and then for all;
  • Do the same with the spans located between the pillars;
  • Determine the volume of the mixture for one, and then all piles;
  • Adding the results of arithmetic calculations for all pillars, spans and piles, get the required concrete consumption.
In the selection of stone material for the construction of the fence, there are several rules that are recommended to be followed:
  1. The most durable and durable stones are rocks.
  2. Heavy stones are inconvenient to lay, small stones in the fence will give a lot of seams. Therefore, you need to choose something in between, paying attention to the weight and shape of the material.
  3. The frost resistance of the stone must withstand at least fifteen full cycles.
  4. When buying, the material must be sorted by type, color and size. It is very convenient in further work, since when laying it will take less time to search for the desired sample.
In addition to stone, to build a fence you will need roll waterproofing(roofing material, etc.), a metal profile for reinforcing pillars, reinforcement d. 10 mm, boards and beams 20x40 mm for formwork, sand and gravel for pouring the base.

Of the equipment and tools in the work are required: a concrete mixer, shovels, a sledgehammer and a hammer, a square and a level, trowels and a screwdriver, knitting wire, screws and nails.

Building a foundation for a stone fence


Using cords stretched over stakes as a guide, you can start building a stone fence with your own hands. The first step is to dig a long trench under the foundation of the structure. Its width should be 45-50 cm, and the depth - 70 cm. The first parameter is taken with a small margin relative to the width of the concrete tape for mounting the formwork.

The bottom of the finished trench should be leveled and vertical cavities for piles 0.7 m deep and 15 cm wide should be dug in it. The bottom of these holes should then be compacted and covered with a 5 cm layer of sand. A sand cushion of the same thickness should be made in the trench. For better sealing, it is recommended to moisten it with plenty of water.

over sand cushion it is necessary to pour a layer of crushed stone 10 cm thick, and install channels with a section of 60x60 mm in the pits, which will serve as load-bearing reinforcing rods of the stone pillars of the fence.

After that, you need to make frames around the bottom of the channels from 4 rods of reinforcement for 10 mm. Rebars should rise above the pits by 20 cm.

The walls of each hole under the pile must be covered with waterproofing. To do this, you can roll the roofing material into a tube, bypassing the reinforcement and channel in a circle. At the same time, such insulation will play the role of formwork. Instead of roofing felt, you can use a suitable piece of asbestos-cement pipe.

After completing this procedure, concrete can be poured into the pile cavity. After it hardens, you should proceed to the manufacture of a concrete foundation tape.

Work must begin with the manufacture of formwork from plank panels, plywood and spacers. The height of the structure should be greater than the upper level of the future foundation. Then in the formwork you need to place reinforcing cages, each of which is a three-dimensional figure, consisting of longitudinal and transverse rods.

Longitudinal reinforcement is load-bearing, so it has a larger diameter. Frames should be installed with an overlap of longitudinal rods and connected with knitting wire. Be sure to leave a gap of 5 cm between the bottom of the frame and the gravel cushion of the trench. As gaskets for this, you can use pieces of brick or small stones.

The finished formwork with frames must be poured with concrete. It is advisable to do this at a time. Otherwise, the polymerization of the binder will be uneven, which may cause cracks in the concrete tape. After pouring, there should be no areas with protruding reinforcement on the concrete surface.

The time to set its strength is from three to seven weeks. It depends on the outdoor temperature. To protect the hardening concrete from the rapid evaporation of moisture from it, the poured formwork must be covered from above with plastic wrap or roofing material for 3-4 days. The finished concrete strip can be released from the formwork and proceed to the masonry of the fence.

Features of stone masonry


Work should begin with the manufacture of pillars using a sliding formwork. It can be put together from boards in the form of a box without a bottom, with a side length corresponding to the cross-sectional dimensions of the future pillar. When installing the formwork, the channel of the fence post must pass through the center of the "box" - this is a prerequisite.

The first layer of rubble stones must be laid in a wooden box, pressing the front part of piece materials as tightly as possible to its inner walls. The gaps between them should be minimal. After selecting all the stones of the first row, they should be fastened in the formwork with cement mortar. It shouldn't be made liquid. The solution should have the consistency of a thick porridge. To prepare it for a third of a bucket of cement, it is recommended to take 1/2 bucket of sand and fine gravel.

The next layers of stones must be laid in the same way: select samples according to size and fix them on the mortar. After filling the formwork with masonry to the top, it is necessary to mount its second level and repeat the whole procedure again. Pre-both wooden boxes must be fastened together with screws so that the elements of the sliding formwork do not move relative to each other.

After filling both boxes with stones, it is necessary to interrupt the process of erecting the pillar for a day, giving time for the polymerization of the cement mortar in the masonry. Then the first formwork box should be removed, leaving the second one in its place. It will need to mount the third level of formwork. Rearranging the boxes in this way, it is worth bringing the masonry of the pillars to the design height.

After freeing the dried masonry from the formwork, it is necessary to close up the external gaps between the stones. The ratio of sand and cement in the solution for this type of work should be 3:1. The finished part of the column must be wiped with a sponge soaked in water to remove excess cement mixture.

The basement of the fence or its entire span must be laid out with dressing of the seams from the second row of the masonry of the pillar. After mounting one or two of its rows, it is recommended to withstand the setting solution.

When the required height of the masonry fence is reached, its top must be leveled. To do this, you can use pieces of stone, split with a sledgehammer, or an ordinary cement screed.

How to make a stone fence - look at the video:


Using natural or artificial stone, you can build a fence, as they say, "for centuries." And if you take into account the design methods of work, combining views, using the color of the stones and their shape, you can build an original structure. And most importantly - all this is achievable on our own.