Wedge boards, nailed horizontally and overlapping when sheathing a house, is called a clapboard in North America. This option exterior finish house is very interesting - the walls of the building look both noble and modern. The same notorious "vinyl" often imitates just this type of sheathing. And the protection of the walls in this case is very reliable - there is practically no chance for water to get into the cavity of the wall. However, all this is possible with one important condition- if you do the job technically competently.

V Lately many people prefer polyvinyl chloride to wood. In North America, panels made of this plastic are almost three times cheaper than wooden boards, it is easier to work with "vinyl" and it does not require much maintenance. However, customers, middle-class people, still prefer natural wood to artificial material. We have been dealing with boards for many years and, believe me, we know a lot about this, at first glance, simple work. As in any business, we also have a whole arsenal of tricks, a certain one that allows you to quickly and efficiently “dress” the house.

We start sheathing after fixing heat-insulating mats. First of all, install the corners. For internal corners we use bars with a section of 25x50 mm or 30x30 mm [Fig. 1) - with smaller sections it is difficult to achieve the desired sealing of the joints.

External corners We do things differently depending on the circumstances. The simplest way is to fill boards with a section of 25x100 mm along the edges of adjacent surfaces (Fig. 2a). In this case, we install the sheathing end-to-end with the side faces of the corner elements, which allows you not to suffer with the joints of the clapboard boards “on the mustache”.

If the customer wants the corners to look more solid, we act in a slightly different way (Fig. 26). First, we nail the slats with a section of 25x75 mm, and then, after finishing the sheathing, we close the joints with wide (25x150 mm) boards. In addition to external massiveness, such corners provide better waterproofing. Yes, and possible "blunders" in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe joints will be closed. True, the latter method also has disadvantages - secluded places are formed in the corners, which various insects love to settle in. But here, as they say, the customer is always right, and our task is to warn about possible consequences in time.

In order to minimize the possible warping of the boards, we carefully putty their ends in all cases, since it is the fibers that are the capillaries through which the wood absorbs moisture. By lenght corner boards we cut only after installing drain aprons.

The roof over the side walls usually has an overhang (Fig. 3a). In this case, we nail the top board of the sheathing end-to-end with the soffit, and then additionally close the corner with a decorative strip.

With end walls, sometimes you have to do things differently (Fig. 36). The pediment often does not have an overhang, so here we do about the same as in the case of "solid" corners. Top end wall we nail the rail with a section of 25x75 mm, install the upper row of sheathing end-to-end with it, and additionally close the seam with a wide (25x150 mm section) board.

Most often we have to deal with wide (130 mm) boards (Fig. 4). Approximately 100 mm of surface remains open when sheathing, since the clapboard is overlapped. Why about? Yes, because this type of skin is just good because you can quite flexibly vary the amount of overlap.

For example, we always try to calculate the rows so that the lower edge of the row of sheathing located above the window is at the level of the upper cut of the opening. Similarly, under the window, the board should pass continuously and without any cutouts. Note that wall cladding is greatly simplified and looks better if all windows are at the same height.

When cladding walls with a clapboard - homemade template. It can be made from a fairly long rail with a section of 25x75 mm. Having installed the blank on the drain apron, we mark on it the upper and lower sections of windows and doors, and then, having calculated the number of rows, we transfer the marking from the template to the wall (Fig. 5). At the same time, you need to mark the upper edges of the clapboard, since the lower ones will be covered with the already nailed boards of the bottom row.

The calculation of the rows consists in dividing the distance between the extreme (upper and lower) points of the sheathed surface into equal intervals (from 100 to 115 mm). In some cases, when the installation pitch of the boards cannot be adapted to the marks of windows and doors, we act according to the circumstances, for example, we make appropriate cutouts in the boards.

We usually work with three of us: one saws, two nail the sheathing. First, we mount the molding board and close it with an aluminum apron, which we mount on the wall with an overlap of about 4 ... 5 cm. Then we cut blanks for sheathing the interwindow gaps.

On top of the apron we pin a bar with a section of 30x30 mm to give all the boards a single slope. This, of course, is for boards with a width of 130 mm. For a narrower clapboard, the thickness of the lining may be different. If a row of sheathing needs to be made up of some blanks, we put pieces of roofing felt or roofing felt under each joint to prevent moisture from penetrating through the seam into the cavity of the stone. Windows are sealed around the perimeter silicone sealant, and outside, around the openings, we make improvised frames from roofing.

And a few more tips for those who decide to sheathe the house with wedge-shaped boards.

1 If one side is planed and the other not, it is advisable to install the clapboard with the rough side facing out. In this case, both the primer and the paint adhere to the surface better.
2 Sheathing boards should not be nailed only at the top or bottom. In the first case, the board can split, and in the second case, the clapboard will expand uncontrollably when moisture is absorbed.
3. We tried different types of wood: cedar, mahogany, pine and spruce. Best of all, of course, behaves cedar. It is difficult to drive a nail in mahogany without splitting the board, although in all other respects mahogany is excellent - it does not warp, does not shrink and holds the finish perfectly. We prefer not to work with pine, because this wood is prone to splitting, warping, and shrinkage. We rarely use spruce, but in general it is quite suitable for outer skin.
4. It is better not to save on nails. Even galvanized nails, in our opinion, are not very good for sheathing. When hammering from the surface of the cap, it is not torn off durable coating and the nail starts to rust, like a normal black one. The most reliable nails are made of stainless steel. They are, of course, much more expensive than galvanized ones, but worth it.

Wood is often used to decorate the facades of private houses. The decorative facade board is in no way inferior to the timber coating, but, at the same time, it is lighter and more affordable. It is made from various breeds, known for its qualities of strength and durability.

Types and description

facade wooden plank(planken or keruing) is a type facing material, which is made from natural wood by cutting and processing it. It is classified according to the breeds from which it is made.

There are such types:

The production of natural wood panels is almost identical. The tree trunk is cleaned of bark and branches, after which it is cut with a special saw into certain segments. These planks go through several treatments that reduce the distance between the fibers, thereby increasing the density of the wood. After that, to give the material a certain color or structure, it is covered with paint, varnishes, tinted (to obtain a tinted panel).

fiber cement

In addition to natural breeds, they are also used artificial materials. As examples, we propose to consider facade boards made of wood-polymer composite (WPC), PVC (lining) and fiber cement. In both cases, sawdust mixed with certain additives. In WPC, these are polymers that resist the spread of decay processes and increase the strength of the material. In the second, it is a simple adhesive that provides a flat, smooth surface, low weight and resistance to moisture. It should be noted that PVC is more fragile than WPC, so it is used mainly for interior work.

Ventilated fiber cement board (Kedral and Dekenink Twinson) outwardly completely repeat the surface of natural cedar, but are made from special siding. It is equipped with internal grooves for ventilation and hidden fasteners. This artificial resin panel is very light in weight, yet highly flexible and strong.

Separately, it is necessary to highlight panels made of thermowood. Thermal beech, thermal oak, and other similar coatings do not change their dimensions under the influence of temperature. This is very important if there are no plans to change the facade in the next 10 years. Due to the fact that in the manufacture of thermowood undergoes a series of additional treatments at high temperatures, its fibers are compressed. Facing thermal board for walls is not supplemented with any artificial additives, therefore it is completely natural.

In addition to the material from which the panel is made, it is also classified according to the shape of the section.

There are such options:

If we classify coatings according to the degree of processing, then there is a facade primed board, clean (raw), painted. The soil increases the stability of the wood. Specialists also use mixtures that prevent wood from igniting or the spread of fire. Raw board does not have such properties, but costs an order of magnitude less.

Installation

Installation can be carried out both on the frame and on the wall of the building. The latter option is most preferable for buildings made of wood, if you want to strengthen its walls or plinth. Consider how a radial heat-treated facade board is installed on a house:

Video: Mounting the front board on planfix fasteners

Every 5 years it is necessary to re-treat the facade with antibacterial and other protective compounds.

Price overview

You can buy a facade board at the manufacturer's warehouse, as well as in branded dealer stores, its price depends on the material and size. Sale is made in all cities of the Russian Federation and the CIS countries.

Consider how much a Finnish UTV front board costs:

Town	Cost, at. e. / m 2
Almaty	17
Voronezh	15
Yekaterinburg	15
Krasnodar	15
Krasnoyarsk	15
Minsk	17
Moscow	17
Nizhny Novgorod	15
Novosibirsk	15
Samara	15
St. Petersburg	17

This panel is delivered without additional sanding, so the distinctive feature of this company is the rough surface of the wood. The main advantage of the coating is its high resistance to open fire and temperature extremes.

Unedged board finishing is the most common and simple technology, which, with a correct and competent approach, is able to decorate the facade of a residential building.

It is a simple and inexpensive building material, feature which are not sawn edges, which give design originality and aesthetics to the structure.

Often, equipping and decorating your home, preference is given to environmentally friendly building materials.

Therefore, cladding with a board or similar materials based on natural wood has gained popularity.

Among the positive physical properties of a tree, it should be noted:

• Beautiful view;
• Resistance to mechanical stress;
• High thermal insulation;
• Partial replacement of damaged slats;
• High strength;
• Noise isolation;
• Ease of installation and operation;
• Compatibility with other finishing building materials.

The cost of a natural product is higher than that of imitating analogues, but it is fully justified.

The modern construction market offers a wide range of wooden products, but the most popular are:

• Lining;
• Timber imitation;
• Siding panels;
• Unedged board.

Thanks to the raw edges, an amazing style of facade decoration is created with competent cleaning and processing of the material.

The careful fitting of the planks gives the impression of a completely wooden structure. It is possible to leave the edges of the planks with bark elements, which gives a stylish finish.

It is only important not to forget about the use of protective impregnating compounds and antiseptics. Impregnation with stain and subsequent application of varnish is possible.

Previously, this material was used for non-residential buildings and for the crate roof structure due to lack of demand for aesthetics appearance.

But in last years unedged board goes for. However, its competent processing and aesthetic location will first be required.

Among her positive characteristics- high strength and high resistance to mechanical damage, good resistance to changes in humidity and temperature extremes.

And the low density of wood makes it possible in its easy processing, which reduces the time spent on finishing work.

A beam is used, nailed in increments of 1.5 m to the top of the unedged board and at the corners of the building.

The fit of the unedged material may not be perfect, the resulting gaps are smeared with mastic or a sealed composition.

Advantages and disadvantages of wood:

Pros: independence from climatic zones, designs of any complexity, environmental friendliness and naturalness, simple installation that does not require special skills.

As well as the duration of operation and maintainability, the installation of additional insulation, the reconstruction of the facade without harming the fundamental foundation, an affordable price and a variety of colors and textures.

Watch a video on the topic:

Cons: combustibility without special treatment, natural components in the form of knots, resins and cracks, renewal frequency protective painting, fungal manifestations without antiseptic treatment.

Material dimensions

Finishing is carried out with an unedged board 16, 19, 22 and 25 mm thick, there is also a thicker one - 32-75 mm.

Specialized stores are full of a variety of choices of this material, which is explained by the frequent finishing works with its use.

The creation and uniqueness of the play of chiaroscuro - an effect obtained thanks to horizontal plating. For facades, it is recommended to purchase an unedged board 30 cm wide.

Preference is given to high-density wood of northern species, which is characterized by beautiful texture. Especially, I would like to note the selected butt forest and Siberian larch running without defects.

Mounting method

The slats are fastened in 2 ways: "overlapping" or close to each other. Method 2 is as complicated as it is beautiful.

Regardless of the aesthetic appearance, the practicality of the finishing method is taken into account, first of all.

From the point of view of practicality, “overlapping” is the most suitable method of facade cladding, as it is more moisture resistant due to the installation of an unedged board over a waterproofing layer.

And the ends of the slats are joined with trimming "under the mustache" with subsequent processing of the joints with a sealed composition.

If necessary, the material is primed and mounted on top of the waterproofing. Fastening is done with the front side with the 1st nail below, but above the previous bar.

This will preserve the integrity of the entire structure with any fluctuations in humidity.

Step-by-step overlapping technology

Boards primed or coated protective layer deep penetration compounds.

The primer is a link with adhesive and paint compositions, which helps to increase the wear resistance of the coating, reduce the aggressive effects of the environment. The walls are also primed.

Installation of a waterproofing layer of a coating type. The walls and blind areas of the building are waterproofed three times to protect against moisture penetration and the formation of microorganisms.

Applying mastic is done with a brush. If there are cracks, they are filled with the composition, and the excess is removed with a spatula.

Drying of the waterproofing is important to avoid stickiness of the surface.

Installation of an insulating layer in the form mineral wool, characterized by its incombustibility, moisture resistance, cold resistance.

Fastening planks vertically over the waterproofing layer with nails. Vertical unedged boards are stuffed to the wall surface, after which horizontal ones are attached from the bottom up.

The imposition of each subsequent bar on the previous one is overlapped by 20 mm.

Sealing joints with polyurethane sealants, which have high elasticity and are not subject to stretching and deformation.

The façade is being finished various materials. Wherein correct use even boards with rough edges can be the exterior decoration of any home. Sheathing the facade of a building with wood is an eco-friendly way to protect against the sun, wind, rain and frost.

Of no small importance in ensuring the service life of the external decorative coating has preliminary and final processing of materials. Thanks to her, sheathing a house with a board will save beautiful view buildings for many years.

Some Features

In order to sheathe your house with an overlap board, you must first solve several problems:

• determine the type of wood;
• select materials for preliminary and finishing;
• assess the need for additional insulation;
• select fasteners.

Finishing a building with a board is not cheap. However, its huge plus is the naturalness and natural beauty of such material.

Choice of wood

The following types of wood can be used for the exterior cladding of a house with an overlap board:

1. Larch. This is the leader of this list in terms of main characteristics. Wood is moisture resistant. The degree of warping is significantly lower than other conifers. According to the Brinell scale, its hardness is 109 units, which practically corresponds to this oak parameter. Easy to process, nails hold well in such a fairly dense rock. The service life is at least 100 years. Such wood is not very susceptible to attack by insects. The only drawback is the high price.
2. Spruce. This type of wood is quite well impregnated with resin. The presence of numerous knots is a big plus for decorative design. However, the wood is soft. Therefore, after a few years, cracks form around the knots. Because of these characteristics, spruce plank trim is rare.
3. Pine. The hardness of this breed is only 1.6 units. The board from this type is strongly warped. Service life no more than 12 years. In this regard, pine for exterior cladding is used less frequently than larch.
4. Cedar. The material is resistant to rot, but susceptible to attack by insects, therefore it is required additional processing. The material is soft, but the service life is about 20 years.
5. Oak. Such material looks very beautiful, hardness is 110 units, service life is at least 100 years. Oak is resistant to moisture and decay, as well as insect attack. The disadvantages include high cost. Hammering nails without first drilling a hole often results in splitting of the material.

Hardwoods are also very popular. However, the cheapest species are pine and spruce. But when using them, high-quality treatment with antiseptics and flame retardants is required, and at the final stage - with varnishes.

After choosing the type of wood, it is necessary to determine the degree of processing of the material:

1. Obapol slab or simply slab when facing a house has rarely been used lately. Such a board is the edge of a log, which has an oval surface. The downside is the different widths.
2. Unedged board. Lumber uses most in demand. At the board, one or both ends are not processed along the length.
3. The clean-edged board is processed along the entire length, the width is the same along it.
4. Grooved board. From the ends along the length it has grooves of various shapes.

Now planken is gaining wide popularity as a facing material. Such a non-grooved board is in demand, it is made from both larch and pine with beveled edges. Produced with a thickness of not more than 20 mm.

You should pay attention to the board - an imitation of a bar. Its thickness is 16–45 mm.

The most convenient width of any used board is 300 mm. At the same time, the thickness of the finishing material can vary from 20 to 30 mm.

It must be remembered that the material for work must be dry. Therefore, in the summer it is recommended to keep it outdoors for up to two weeks, covering it from moisture. At the same time, the shrinkage of the material after work is significantly reduced.

Selection of auxiliary materials for pre-treatment and grouting

Exterior decoration of the house includes preliminary training. Walls must be protected from moisture and fungus. For this, premium wood pre-impregnation products turn out to be excellent helpers. These are Biofa primers or Woodlife antiseptics. They make resistant wall not only from exposure to moisture and fungus, but also from fire.

Be sure to make sure that the basement is properly waterproofed. By stone or concrete foundation moisture gradually rises to the walls. It must also be taken into account that the board should in no case come into contact with the ground.

There must be a blind area around the house. It can be done after the completion of finishing work. Do not forget about the presence of a layer of waterproofing from the wall of the building.

To seal the joints between the boards along the length, various mastics and other means are used, for example, Perma-Chink acrylic sealant or Energy Seal. They have good adhesion and elasticity, the ability to both shrink and stretch. Cracks between the seams during their application are not formed.

Before starting work, you need to decide on the need for insulation of the house. If the building is made of gas blocks, then this event is desirable to perform. If mats are used as insulation, then for fastening the guide beam, suspensions must be provided, used, for example, for drywall.

After all such "little things" are provided, finishing work can be started.

Unedged board sheathing technology

After processing the board with a protective coating and performing waterproofing of the walls, and, if necessary, installing insulation, the sheathing material is attached over the insulation to the vertical bars. The house is sheathed in the direction from the bottom up with the help of nails.

At the bottom of the vertical bars, it is necessary to nail a horizontally thin rail that sets the angle of inclination (relative to the vertical) of each subsequent board. The next layer is superimposed on the previous one. This "overlap" is from 15 to 20 mm. It is necessary to maintain the same slope of the board relative to the vertical.

When applying each next row, one should not forget about observing the horizontal arrangement of the finishing material. Fastening the board with nails is carried out in its lower part.

Upholstery of the house with an unedged board ends with application finish coat. Often varnish is used for this. This coating is produced on a different basis. Acrylic lacquer Borma or polyurethane Varathane have proven themselves well. They protect wood from moisture, sunlight, temperature changes. At the same time, the natural appearance of the fibers is well preserved.

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Finishing board how original decoration your house

In the history of our country, the finishing board for walls, both external and internal, has been used for a very long time. In this review, we will talk about what happens decorative board for wall decoration, and in what design directions it is in demand today.

Wooden board for finishing - what is it

Genuine motto modern world you can call the slogan - “Let's go back to the wild nature, but at the same time we will not forget to take with us all the benefits and conveniences of civilization”. And although in its pure form this task is practically impossible, in design, wall decoration with a board has become one of the symbols of naturalness in the interior. Of course, there are both pluses and minuses here.

Advantages and disadvantages of wood finishes

• Naturally, the first thing that advertising “trumpets” and absolutely all designers talk about is the ecological cleanliness and naturalness of wood. Shiny polished furniture and wood-based cladding plates are certainly good. But you must admit that the finish of an unedged board is much closer in appearance to the wild;
• Wood, of course, is not stone or concrete, but all the same, such a cladding is quite durable. Plus, the board is an elastic thing, and where the stone breaks and the plaster cracks, nothing will happen to the board;

• A house trimmed with wood is not only beautiful and prestigious, but also warm. By itself, such a lining has quite low level thermal conductivity;
• The facade board for the exterior of the house, being a porous and elastic material, has always been considered an excellent sound insulator;
• Wood trim has a fairly wide range of colors. Now you can choose your own type of wood for any design, even the notorious one does not shy away from plank inclusions. And thanks to modern impregnations and stains, the facade and interior cladding can be decorated to your liking;

• Nice, natural look and the throes of creativity at the birth of a new design are certainly interesting things. But there is one more important point, mount such a cladding with your own hands under the power of any home master.

You can take my word for it, the instructions for mounting the board on the wall are mastered within half an hour. There are 3 types of board fastening: butt, overlap and tenon-groove system. And all these types are extremely easy to learn.

Like any finishing material, a wooden board is not without its drawbacks. Although a lot here depends on how you look at these shortcomings:

• Many critics "nod" at the high cost of such a finish. Of course, if you decorate a house or cottage from the inside, for example, with an oak parquet board, then the price will be sky-high;

From my own experience, I can say that finishing a bath with an unedged board made of such species as pine and linden is quite affordable for a simple layman, even taking into account the cost of protective impregnations.

• The tree burns well and from this, you can’t get anywhere. Many flame retardants (fire-fighting impregnations) are now being produced, but, firstly, this is chemistry, and secondly, flame retardants only reduce the combustibility of the material;
• And another negative point, in which I fully support the critics, is the need for periodic maintenance. Especially when it comes to finishing with unedged boards on the outside and wood cladding in wet rooms. In this case protective covering on wood will need to be renewed every few years.

Understanding the terminology

Board called wooden crafts, in which the width of the bar is 2 or more times greater than its thickness. If the bar does not meet this requirement, then it is already a bar or bar (the bar has a side size of up to 100 mm in cross section, and a bar has 100 or more millimeters).

• Edged board is the most common construction material. In this case, the product is processed from all four sides. Moreover, the processing must be carried out technical way, sawing, planing or grinding;

• Unedged board is technically processed only on two wide sides. Simply put, a "wild" log is taken and unfolded at the sawmill in one plane. As a result, the edges of such planks remain unfinished, often even with bark;

• The so-called wane or croaker are log cuts along the edges. In fact, in such planks, only one plane is flat, with reverse side they are not processed. Such a forest has always been considered woodworking waste, it could only be used in inconspicuous places, for example, for arranging a roofing pie;

Modern designers have found another use for this material and create original panels from slabs.

• There are also such specific terms as frontal, terraced and shipboard. But they no longer come from the type of processing, but rather from the destination:

1. So the place for the frontal board has always been considered the transition zone from the walls of the house to the roof, in some cases this was the name of the material used for the manufacture carved architraves and gables;

1. A ship board is a fairly thick, well-planed plank, originally intended for finishing the outer sides and decks of ships. Luxurious look, beautiful texture and highest quality surface treatments have made this expensive material one of the most popular not only in construction, but also in design;

1. A deck board is, in principle, the same as a ship board, as the name implies, it was intended for paving floors on open terraces. Although not so expensive wood is already used here. Therefore, finish the balcony terrace board or to veneer the facade with it will cost less than the ship.

Types of finishing board

Now let's move on to the most popular types of material. And if you take it as a percentage, then, of course, lining can be considered the queen here. These planks got their name at the beginning of the 20th century, when they were lined with railway cars from the inside.

A distinctive feature of this popular material is the tenon-groove connection. In the vast majority of cases, such a cladding is mounted on a frame made of wooden bars.

There are many varieties of lining, although imitation and block house are deservedly considered the most common. With the imitation of timber, everything is clear, and under the outlandish name of the block house, there are planks that copy the appearance of a rounded log.

Now many are trying to highlight the block house in a separate niche. I was specifically interested in this issue and I can assure you that a block house is one of the types of lining.

Planks may have different sizes and intended for outdoor or interior decoration, but all attempts to select a block house in independent view finishing is just a marketing ploy.

Exactly the same as "evrovagonka". It differs from the usual one only in strictly fixed dimensions. And also the obligatory presence of compensatory cuts on the back side.

Modern parquet board also joins according to the tenon-groove principle, but here you get a perfectly even and durable coating. Previously, this material was made from solid, well-dried and impregnated with protective compositions of the array.

Now often a parquet board is glued together from several planks. And some negligent manufacturers generally make it from thick plywood.

The so-called planken or planking board is exclusively decorative, finishing material. If you understand the history of origin, then the planken can be safely called the grandfather of modern lining.

The fact is that initially the cars were lined with even boards, and only a little later, a tenon-groove connection appeared on these boards. But the slats, out of habit, continued to be called clapboard.

The term planking board was again coined by good marketers. After all, it was necessary to somehow call even planed boards without spikes and grooves, but with a chamfered face on the front side.

The interior decoration of the walls with a planking board can be done both end-to-end and overlap. But on the facade, most often the planken is mounted only with an overlap. Moreover, the slats are stuffed horizontally so that the rain can safely flow down them. This is a kind of wooden tile.

The chamfer on the front side of the planking board can be either rounded or have even corners. But remember, if you decide to mount a planken end-to-end somewhere, you should leave a gap of a couple of millimeters between the planks (the thickness of a match). It is necessary to compensate for the expansion of wood with fluctuations in temperature and humidity.

Types of wood from which the finishing board is made

It is no secret that in addition to beauty, natural wood also has a beneficial effect on human health. Personally, I have never heard of anyone being allergic to one or another type of wood. In the table below, I outlined the main characteristics of the most popular breeds in the domestic market.

Characteristics and average cost finishing wood
wood species	General characteristics	average price
hardwood
Linden	It has a light color and a smooth, uniform texture. Practically does not heat up, therefore it is often used as a budget option finishing the steam room in the bath.	From 700 rub/m²
Alder	Alder is valued as an antiseptic. Its aroma is able to kill pathogens in the room and prevent mold and mildew.	From 900 rub/m²
Oak	It belongs to the elite breeds and has a unique strength. The color scheme of different types of oak can range from light with a golden hue to dark with burgundy splashes.	From 3000 rub/m²
Ash	Clean and light wood with an original texture. In terms of strength, ash has not gone far from oak, so it is quite difficult to process.	From 1500 rub/m²
Aspen	Aspen has an original color and texture. It, like linden, is often used for lining steam rooms. It is also valued for the fact that it practically does not rot, which means that it does not require aggressive impregnations for protection.	From 1200 rub/m²
coniferous wood
Larch	Larch has a number of advantages. Its beautiful color and texture cannot be confused with anything, it is not subject to decay, has high strength and at the same time has good elasticity. This is the same ship board that I mentioned above.	From 750 rub/m²
Cedar	This pearl of Siberia is valued almost as much as larch. Although it is inferior to larch in strength and resistance to aggressive environments.	From 550 rub/m²
Pine and spruce	In terms of finishes, pine and spruce are almost equivalent. Their undeniable merits easy processing, affordable cost and beauty are considered.	From 350 rub/m²

The subtleties of the design of wooden walls

If we are already talking about design as such, then you will agree that lining for the role original finish doesn't fit at all. This material has a strong association with balconies, garages and baths.

I mean something exclusive, something that others do not have and it is desirable for acceptable price. And here it is better for us to work with edged boards, unedged boards and slabs. In extreme cases, you can use old boards and parquet boards.

But with old boards you need to be very careful, otherwise, instead of originality, you can get clutter.

Where is the best place to focus?

Wall decoration with a board will look only if it is done in a dosed manner. In other words, you should not sew up the whole house with the same material, so you definitely won’t achieve exclusivity.

A wooden panel should catch the eye immediately upon entering, which means that it must be associated with other interior details. There are 4 suitable places for interior wood trim in the house:

1. Natural in the bedroom wall decoration would be appropriate at the head of a wide bed. It can be only a fragment covering the head of the bed and side tables, or the entire wall;

1. The wooden background will contrast perfectly with the wide plasma TV. So you can organically combine the naturalness of wildlife with the technocratic benefits of civilization;

1. Your favorite sofa, in front of which you watch TV with the whole family in the living room, will also be in perfect harmony with natural wood. Especially if this sofa is sheathed with genuine leather. But keep in mind, here you need to choose one thing. Either decorate the wall behind the TV or behind the sofa, otherwise the highlight will be lost;

1. In the kitchen, even if it has a solid size, there are also only 2 walls on which wood trim will look good. This work zone, that is kitchen apron and everything around him. AND dinner table only if this table is adjacent to a wall.

Although it's all classic options. Nobody is stopping you from creating. For example, at my house, an unedged board is sheathed in a corner in which there is an aquarium and a cage with birds. Add some live indoor vines and you get a corner of the wild in your own home.

Styles that wood harmonizes with

In general, in design it is believed that a tree can fit into absolutely any style. Even hi-tech with its black and white colors, strict forms and shine of nickel-plated parts is quite loyal to natural wood. True, it is better to use glossy and laminated surfaces in it, an unedged board will be alien here.

Eco-directions, in addition to the already traditional trend in the spirit of "back to the roots", includes Asian, in particular Japanese style. Although rough shapes are not welcome in Asia, all details must be of high quality.

The so-called country direction includes a lot of different branches. This is American, English, scandinavian styles, rustic and, in fact, all ethnic trends. This is where you can arbitrarily compose a board with rough processing.

Separately worth french provence and Mediterranean. They welcome the design of whitewashed planed boards. In addition, glossy inclusions will be appropriate in the Italian theme, but without fanaticism.

If you want to decorate the interior in retro style, it is not necessary to sew up everything with aged or old boards. A brushed tree with a highlighted texture and light cracks certainly does not hurt, but I repeat once again, you should not get carried away.

• The board can be attached to the crate or glued to the wall. There are enough glues now, but "Liquid nails" are usually used. If you decide to glue the material, then the wall will have to be perfectly aligned;

• Monochromatic cladding, even from elite wood species, will not surprise anyone now. Don't be afraid to experiment with different colors, but better with different breeds wood, this will give your wall extra volume;
• Looks great layout vertical, horizontal and diagonal laying slats. Fragments can even insert a classic parquet Christmas tree;

• Golden oak can be diluted with a pink plank of Karelian birch or rich burgundy splashes of cherry;
• My advice to you, for interior decoration, use synthetic varnishes and paints as little as possible, but rather refuse them altogether. The wood will look good and will not lose color for a long time if it is coated with linseed oil once a year. In order to preserve the aroma of, for example, natural needles for a long time, you need to insist this needles on linseed oil within 2 weeks;

• So that your design masterpiece does not fall out of the general ensemble, it is desirable that the leading color of the wall be repeated in some interior details;
• If the wall is plain with a polished or laminated finish, you can revive it with the help of accessories, decorative shelves with figurines, light bulbs, pictures, etc.;
• Decorating the walls with a board in a nursery is a separate issue. Firstly, I do not recommend that you put the planks on glue, no matter how high-quality it is, your child can pick these planks. Secondly, something durable and smooth, for example, a parquet board, would be appropriate for a nursery. Unedged board or it is better not to use a slab here, the child may get hurt or drive a splinter.

Conclusion