If your thuja turns yellow and dries, then you do not need to panic immediately. In this case, it is very important to act with patience. The same thing happens quite often with juniper. To bring both of these plants back to normal, you have to, as they say, a little "tinkering". It will not be possible to restore them quickly. Be prepared that this will take you a whole year, and maybe all two. The term is long enough, but in order to reduce it, you need to start doing thuja faster. Do not waste time, but immediately start to improve your dried thuja.

Thuja turns yellow and dries. What should you do to help her?

First of all, it will be necessary to remove all dry and already seriously reddened needles from it. This can be easily done with a pruner. If you do not help the plant to remove these needles, then do not expect that it will fall off by itself. So, your plant will never be able to cleanse itself. Here you need to safely cut the thuja. It is quite possible that as a result, the tree after pruning will look terrible for you, as it will lose almost half of its needles. But, you should not be afraid of this. You will also need to cut off the growth point, and besides this, also shorten the top of the plant at the plant, by about 10-15 centimeters.

Subsequent processing and feeding of thuja

At the next stage of plant restoration, you will need to purchase sour peat. Its pH level should be 3-4 units. Such peat is poured with a good, thick layer under the already cut plant. Peat can be simply poured, or mixed with the soil, with its top layer.

Together with peat, fertilizer is also introduced, which will help thuja to recover faster. This is the drug "Buiskoe coniferous", the consumption rate of which, per plant should be 20 grams.

In the spring, do not forget to spray the thuja needles. To do this, "Epin" is bred, and after 10 days, after this procedure, the thuja is also sprayed with "Zircon". When another 10 days have passed, then mullein is used. Half a glass of this organic fertilizer diluted in 5 liters of water. If you do all this on time, then your thuja will partially recover towards the end of summer. Its needles will begin to turn green again, and the plant itself will actively grow again.

Features of thuja care so that it does not dry out

Almost all coniferous crops that grow in the southern regions should be additionally protected from the sun in spring. Otherwise, sunburn they will not be able to escape. In addition, for thuja, you need to use land from coniferous crops. There is no special need to go into the forest to collect such land. You can just gradually warm up such land from neighboring trees - take a little land from one, another part from another. If needles are present in such a land, for a thuja, it will be even better.

Plants that belong to conifers are usually called mycorrhiza. This term refers to those cultures that are in fairly close symbiosis with many fungi, bacteria, and also with microscopic organisms. Therefore, a handful of coniferous earth is necessary for thuja. She can even sprinkle her trunk circle quite a bit.

In the future, be sure to keep an eye on your thuja. And in order for her to always look fresh, be sure to carry out preventive spraying of the entire plant. Use for this solution "Epin" or "Zircon". It is necessary to spray abundantly so that drops hang on the needles. And you need to do this once a month.

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How to care for thuja in the garden so that it is lush and green?

Contrary to popular belief, caring for such a really beautiful coniferous plant like thuja is quite simple. It is only important to take care of the wintering of the plant, for which special preparations, for example, "Purshat-O", have long been developed and successfully tested.

Why winter is dangerous for thuja

As with many crops, winter is a time when thuja is at particular risk. Moreover, it is associated not only with negative temperatures, but also with a strong cold wind and even specific winter burns. If you do not take measures to protect the tree, after winter its needles turn yellow and you can often see broken branches lying around, which especially spoil the appearance.

Snow and icy wind

Along with the negative temperature effect on thuja, these factors affect the tree purely mechanically - due to the large mass of snow, as well as as a result strong winds branches begin to sag, freeze and break quickly.

Therefore, it is very important to wrap the tree in fabric, especially if it comes about young cultures. You should also tie them to pegs driven into the ground at the same distance from the trunk.

Rodent damage to conifers

Another harmful factor is the activity of rodents. Most often, thuja suffers from the common vole and ground squirrels. Damage to the bark not only spoils the appearance of the plant, but also negatively affects its resistance in winter.

Therefore, protecting culture from such influences is also extremely important. For this, traps are used, and dry leaves are also placed in the burrows of animals. walnut, herring heads, animal wool and burdock flowers. It is advisable to additionally wrap the trunk of the thuja with nylon stockings.

Sunburn of conifers in winter

Sunburns can occur not only in summer. In winter, the sun itself heats very little, but its rays are well reflected from the white surface of the snow. As a result, radiation in excess enters the plants, and due to the small surface area of \u200b\u200bthe needles, the greens quickly dry out.

That is why the needles shelter natural fabrics, which have sufficient opacity, is one of the prerequisites for thuja in winter. But it can be excluded if the drug "Purshat-O" is used.

Why does thuja turn yellow

If some parts of the thuja turn yellow, this is a normal process.as branches develop, age, lose green pigments and die off, giving way to new ones. In this case, simply trimming them is enough to speed up the process.

However, when a large number of needles turn yellow at the same time, this is the result of sunburn and drying of the greenery. Moreover, this can happen both in summer and in winter.

How to properly prepare thuja for winter

It is quite possible to avoid the impact of these negative factors and not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. There are several reliable ways to prepare a plant for winter period, which have already been tested by many years of experience of amateur summer residents and professionals:

1. Primarily, in autumn, all old, dried, yellowed branches should be cut off. For this, garden or ordinary well-sharpened scissors are taken. It is best to pre-process them in potassium permanganate or boiling water so as not to introduce bacteria into the plant.
2. Stimulants are used to protect the roots (root) according to the instructions - you need to have time to do the procedure before the first frost.
3. During the fall, the tree can be watered especially generously, increasing the usual rates by 1.5-2 times, since dry land freezes much faster and deeper than moistened. An important point - Abundant watering can be done after most of the needles have fallen from the tree.
4. Young plants, which are not more than 3-5 years old, must be tied up for wind protection. To do this, pegs are driven into the ground, and strong threads are attached at the level of the lower third of the tree.
5. Mulching around the trunk - This is also a mandatory measure, because otherwise the roots run the risk of severely freezing. The fallen needles themselves, as well as peat, leaves, bark are used.
6. Finally, young trees must be covered with bags, linen sheets and other materials that allow air to pass through. The tree is wrapped around in 2-3 layers and tied with a strong rope.

Compliance with these simple rules along with the use special means practically guarantees the preservation of the beautiful appearance of the thuja, as well as the normal growth of the tree during the warm period.

Varieties of thuja (video)

Ways to resuscitate conifers after winter

Very often, with insufficient care for thujas after winter, yellowing of the needles is observed, the dying off of branches. Often summer residents simply throw out the plant. but in most cases the tree can be restored... For this, the methods familiar to everyone are used - feeding, mulching, pruning of affected branches.

Plant feeding

Immediately after wintering, the soil around the affected plant must be well loosened... Next, a mullein solution is introduced, which is bought in finished form and is applied according to the instructions. If the infusion is made independently, then 1 part of dry raw material is taken for 9 parts of water. Thus, in a standard 10-liter bucket, you can take from 0.5 to 1 liter of solution.

Always use warm water (your hands should be comfortable). Watering 4-5 liters for each young tree and 2 times more - for more adult thuja.

Mulching

This is a reliable, proven method that is applied immediately after fertilization. The composition of the mulch is arbitrary, but it is better if coniferous litter is present in it:

• the needles are dry;
• crushed bark;
• foliage;
• crushed peat.

The ratio of the components is about the same, and you can take 2 times more needles. Mulch is traditionally laid out around the trunk at a distance of 30-40 cm.

Pruning branches

A mandatory measure of plant resuscitation is pruning branchesthat have dried, cracked, and turned yellow - i.e. have clear signs of withering away. The procedure is done with ordinary or well-sharpened garden shears, which are pre-disinfected in boiling water or any antiseptic.

The use of drugs

And most effective measure reanimation of thuja is the use of special preparations that help restore growth, and also protect the tree from sunburn and moisture loss. The choice of funds is quite wide, but few that have proven themselves among summer residents. One of these drugs is a remedy "Purshat-O", which you can learn more about in the next section.

NOTE

If the thuja was wrapped in linen sacking for the winter, you should not release it immediately. You need to wait until a positive temperature (daily) is established on the street, and in the first 2 weeks create a little shading - otherwise the spring rays can burn the needles.

Resuscitation of conifers with Purshat-O

Purshat-O is an optimal plant protection agent, since its use allows year-round care for the culture, even with a long absence at the dacha. Distinctive feature preparation - the presence in its composition of only safe for plants and humans chemical substances which help to retain moisture in the stem, roots and green part.

Description of means Purshat-O

The drug is a solution that consists of the following components:

• calcium carbonate and silicon dioxide;
• purified water;
• humectants (wax emulsion);
• complete replacement of the mechanical plant cover;
• reflection of almost all (up to 90%) ultraviolet and infrared radiation, which harms the plant and overheats it;
• prevention of sunburn;
• significant reduction in plant water loss;
• increasing the level of adaptation after transplanting crops;
• helping the plant recover from a burn.

Thanks to this complex effect, the wax emulsion, which is part of Purshat-O, allows the plant to feel good during prolonged watering due to drought and the absence of a host. Watering intervals can be reduced by 1.5-2 times. In addition, the foliage does not overheat in the sun, so the plant is not exposed to heat stress.

NOTE

Along with the summer there is the concept of winter physiological drought: the plant during a long cold period loses moisture for natural reasons, which does not allow it to start fast growth in the spring. Therefore, water retention in tissues using a wax emulsion is very simple and at the same time reliable way solving the problem.

Why does thuja turn yellow (video)

Instructions for use of the drug Purshat-O

Means Purshat-O is universal in its action - it is used not only for caring for conifers, but also for seedlings, seedlings, ornamental and fruit trees, shrubs. The processing mode depends on the specific culture (for more details, see the table). AND the preparation for work itself is the same in all cases:

1. The solution in the vial must be mixed well for 1-2 minutes.
2. Take a standard bucket (10-liter), add 300 to 500 ml of the stock solution.
3. The whole mixture is thoroughly mixed. The result is a 3-5% solution (depending on the amount of the drug).

Important! Always pay attention to the consistency of the mortar - it should not drain freely from the foliage. The main task is to keep the liquid on the surface.

The processing rules are as follows:

1. Most the right time - afternoon.
2. If possible, the weather should be dry and calm (during rains, treatment will not have a significant effect).
3. The optimal way work - using a sprayer. If done by sprinkling (simple spraying with large drops), the results will be much worse.
4. During processing, the solution must be constantly stirred - then the substance will retain its optimal consistency and reliably cover the foliage.
5. The result of the work should be complete drying of the preparation on the green part of the plant. After that, a decision is made whether to carry out secondary processing.

The features of spraying specific crops are presented in the table.

NOTE

It is possible to mix Purshat-O solution with any other means for plant care (fertilizers, pesticides, soil improvers, etc.) only after a positive experiment. If the product does not harm plants in a mixture with other substances, it can be used. It is undesirable to take risks without preliminary testing.

Precautionary measures

The agent is a low-hazard substance (according to the accepted classification, it belongs to the 4th hazard class). Nevertheless, while working with the drug, you need to take into account a few simple rules that guarantee safety for the body:

1. The most important thing is to avoid getting drops, water dust in the eyes. The container with the substance must be held on an outstretched hand from the face.
2. It is undesirable to inhale the mist that may form when spraying (for this you can use a respirator or a regular medical mask).
3. Finally, care must be taken that the solution does not come into contact with exposed skin.

In case of accidental contact of the solution with in different parts body, you need to perform a few simple steps:

1. If the product does get into your eyes, you must immediately stop work and rinse them under a large stream. cold water within 15 minutes.
2. If the solution gets on the hand or other part of the skin, you can simply wash it with soap and rinse the body thoroughly.
3. In case of inhalation of mist from the solution, you can simply go outside and breathe fresh air within minutes.
4. Finally, if accidentally swallowed, seek medical attention.

At the same time, according to many years of experience in using the solution, emergency health effects have never been observed.

Technology and timing of the correct planting of thuja

The best time for planting a plant is spring, because if a tree is planted in autumn, its survival rate will decrease by 10-15%. Planting technology is simple:

1. First of all, you need to choose the right place. For thuja, places with shade are optimal, as well as closed to constant winds. It is easy to guess from this description that the right choice will be landing along the walls country house or other structure - in addition, such an arrangement of trees allows you to design a house well.
2. You can make a single-row or double-row fit. The spacing between trees should be 1 and 2 meters, respectively. When it comes to large varieties, minimum - 4-5 meters.
3. The planting hole is dug twice as deep as the root, and in volume it is 3 times larger than the root ball. It is important to leave the root collar on the surface (not in the ground).
4. After digging, 2 parts of leaf and 2 parts of sod land are introduced into the ground, as well as 1 part of sand and peat. You can add nitroammofox (0.5 kg).

Application of the drug Purshat-O (video)

The trees should be well watered immediately after planting.

There are very few plants that will become original decoration garden with any design and concept. Thuja is a great example of a coniferous tree with soft, juicy greens that not only looks good on its own, but also well emphasizes the dignity of other plants.

Not only pests are dangerous for thujas. With improper care and watering, they can be subject to disease. It is worth considering the main ones: what are their characteristics, and how to cure your favorite trees from them.

Phytophthora

Phytophthora is considered the most famous and dangerous fungal disease of thuja. It's a root disease that destroys it upper layer... This is reflected in the appearance of the thuja as follows: it withers, is painted in grey colour, bottom part the trunk becomes soft to the touch. The tissue under the bark changes color to brown, and plaque appears below. The root becomes brittle, with a rotten smell.

Basically, late blight affects thuja growing on soil that is poorly drained, the water is often stagnant here.

Treatment

For the prevention of phytophthora, it is often necessary to water it with fungicides. If the disease nevertheless reached it, and the roots fester, it is best to destroy the tree, and replace the earth, since this fungus is still for a long time can live.

This is a fungal disease that appears in early spring. You can notice it by the yellowed scales. In a late stage of development, the disease affects the entire shoot, and it dies off.

How to overcome?

To protect the thuja from this disease, it is constantly fed, and also the roots are covered with limestone. In the period July-October until October, every 2 weeks it is advisable to spray the thuja with Fundazol (2% solution). If you see at least one affected shoot, it should be cut out immediately, and then the disease will not spread further.

If the bark is covered with yellow sores that gradually grow and enlarge, your tree has picked up a false shield. Treatment should be started immediately, otherwise this disease will cause the spots to cover the entire trunk and it will die.

How to treat?

In order to destroy the false shield, the following means are used: Rogor, Karbofos, Actellik, Antio.

There are also folk methods... To prevent this disease, you can wrap the trunk with straw or burlap. At the same time, treat the branches with a soapy solution in dinatured alcohol (15 grams of soap, 10 ml of alcohol and 1 liter of warm water). Another way is to apply special caterpillar glue to the surface (this will keep pests out of it).

Once you notice very few maggots, try simply brushing them off with a brush or knife without damaging the bark.

Schütte and rust

Fungal diseases, manifested by darkening and falling of needles. They begin in the spring and spread throughout the year. Mostly young trees get sick.

How to remove rust and shute? The best drugs for prevention

To stop the development of the disease, it is necessary to cut off all affected branches and burn them to prevent it from spreading to other conifers. But that doesn't always help.

It is best to treat the affected trees with HOM. The consumption rate of the drug is 40 g / 10 l of water. This solution should be sprayed on the affected trees twice a season: in spring (in May) and in summer with a re-manifestation of the disease. Since both shute and rust are characteristic of all conifers, it is worth carrying out preventive treatment for the rest of the conifers (all, without exception). It is carried out with the same HOM in the same dose, but only once in the spring.

If there is no effect, it is necessary to shed the trunks of the affected trees with Fundazol. The consumption rate of the drug is 20g / 10 l of water - a solution (0.2%) will be obtained, with which the near-trunk circle of the affected tree is shed once during the growing season. You do not need to spray them with trees, only the soil to destroy the infection in it.

Topsin-M is also used from the shute: the consumption rate of the drug is 15 g / 10 l of water, this solution is consumed for 1 adult plant... Spraying is carried out once in the spring after the threat of night frosts has passed.

Instead of HOM, you can purchase Bordeaux mixture. It is an old, but very effective and proven remedy, suitable for many cultures. You don't have to buy it.

Homemade Bordeaux mix recipe

It's easy to cook it yourself. The purchased bag contains lime and copper sulfate. This means that to prepare ten liters of a one percent solution, you need 100 g of lime and 100 g of vitriol.

Prepare it like this:

1. In glass or wooden dishes (in no case iron or plastic!) vitriol (copper sulfate) is diluted. Add up to five liters of water, in another container the same thing with lime;
2. The diluted vitriol is carefully poured into the slaked lime;
3. Shuffled. You should get a light blue liquid;
4. To understand if there is enough copper sulfate we poured in, you need to take an iron, uncoated object (for example, a knife) and lower it to the bottom of our liquid. The appearance of a red bloom means too much;
5. The fix is \u200b\u200beasy by adding lime. It is necessary to check, otherwise the plants may be burned.

This working solution can be used for preventive spraying every spring (during the period of growing new needles) at the rate of 10 l / 100 m².

Outcome

Correct care and timely assistance will protect and cure your thuja from many possible diseases and pests. But it is also important to remember that shedding and yellowing of the needles does not necessarily signal the appearance of some kind of disease.

Thuja often changes color and sheds needles at the end of the growing season. Appearance may indicate that it is dying. But in fact, it is just preparing for winter, and the change in the color of the needles is just its defensive reaction.

You may be interested in the information:

- thuja pests and methods of dealing with them;

After planting thuja in the garden you expect that the tree will start growing, start to turn green, please the eye, but instead the thuja turns yellow after planting, perhaps in places it also dries up. Why does thuja turn yellow after plantingand what to do to revive it, you will learn in today's article. If the question remains relevant to you, keep reading.

Thuja usually turns yellow for natural reasons, for example, in the fall, preparing for a dormant state. Any novice florist understands that this is a completely normal process, but what can you say about the noticeable yellowing of thuja after planting in the spring?

Various factors can affect the yellowing of thuja - acquired (improper care) or natural (changes in weather conditions).

Why does thuja turn yellow after planting:

• Lack / stagnation of moisture;
• Unsuitable potting mix;
• Illiterate care;
• Changing weather conditions;

The moisture in the potting mix is \u200b\u200bretained depending on the type of components that make up the planting substrate. When planting a thuja in open ground, you should adhere to certain rules:

It is best to plant thuja in a drained sod land, flavored with sand and peat in moderate amounts.

Why does thuja turn yellow:

• Availability groundwater , which lead to root rot and, as a result, disruption of the surface system.
• Lack of moisture - drying of thuja.
• Thickened fit, lack of moisture, air and nutrients for every tree.
• Excessive lighting and exposure to direct sunlight - a straw color is acquired, a noticeable partial yellowing in places of strong sun exposure.
• Roadside thuja turn yellow from salts, components, cleaning agents.
• Lack of nutrients - fasting against the background of insufficient feeding. In addition to yellowness, thuja acquires a brown, purple tint at the edges of the leaves.
• Temperature drop or its jumps, the air temperature is below -20 ° С - browning and yellowing of thuja parts.

Thuja diseases: why does thuja turn yellow after planting

Disease-causing bacteria and fungi that destroy root system and thuja bark also cause changes in the color of the branches.

Thuja diseases:

• Brown shute (stormy snow mold);
• Necrosis (fungal disease);
• Stem rot;

Brown shute settles on young thujas. The disease manifests itself in the spring, as soon as the snow melts. A fungus of snow mold appears as a black bloom, then pointwise spreading to other branches. First of all, the thinnest shoots die off.

Cortical tissue necrosis and branches begins due to fungal infection. First, the lower branches change color, after which the yellowness spreads to the upper shoots. Sporulation in the form of dark spots or gray-black tubercles (1–2 mm in diameter) are localized on the cortex. Mycelium spreads with an abundance of moisture.

Tui's defeat may be due to the appearance stem rot. In this case, any change in the color of thuja for no apparent other reason may indicate the presence of a disease.