Railings for the stairs of a country house: selection criteria and features of self-production. Making metal railings with your own hands Railings for stairs for the street

Wood is the main building material of mankind from ancient times to the present. Of course, today there are many good synthetic analogues, but natural wood is preferred both for the base of structures and as a finishing material with an excellent texture. The manufacture of railings from wood is the best solution, not only for aesthetic reasons, but also due to the flexibility of the material to all types of processing.

Railing is an important structural element of the staircase

In private housing construction, wood is suitable for making the staircase itself, and in order to independently design an aesthetic and comfortable railings for it. At the same time, it is not so important what type of construction and general configuration of the staircase, railings are needed in any version:

  • marching;
  • straight;
  • curved;
  • swivel;
  • screw;
  • curvilinear;
  • combined.

Any handrail is not only an important functional element for climbing / descending stairs, wooden handrails are also endowed with an aesthetic component of the interior. They limit the space of the stairs when going up (down), ensuring overall safety.

Railings are made of different materials, but when choosing the general appearance of the staircase, it is very important how it will look against the background of the general style in the house. Today, stair treads are often mounted directly into the wall or made of transparent plastic and glass. However, a sense of overall safety and reliability should come to the fore, and the designer's idea should be inferior to the established standards responsible for safety.

Attention: The absence of limiters on the stairs is permissible only for small flights of stairs (flights), consisting of no more than 5 steps. Using stairs without handrails (restraints) can lead to accidental falls and irreparable damage to health!

Basic requirements for wooden railings

Wooden handrails provide a complete look and remain the main support when using the steps. Taking into account the peculiarities of the wood, it is important to provide the handrail with sufficient smoothness, excluding the possibility of injuring the palms. To do this, the tree is well sanded or sanded, varnished in 2-3 layers or painted with enamel, such as a railing for a staircase made of wood: photo.

In addition to the appearance of the stairs, general convenience is also important - the height of the handrails should be comfortable when moving up the stairs to hold people of average height by the handrails. A single standard is to make handrails no higher than 95-100 cm, measuring from the level of the step. Sometimes at the stairs they make an additional parallel lower row - a railing for children. Along the wall (another supporting vertical), also on the brackets, a railing for a staircase made of wood is additionally fixed.

The stair railings are very simple in design:

  • handrails (decorative or simple);
  • support posts (chiseled or simple balusters).

Decorative balusters are spaced with sufficient spacing so that a child or an adult cannot fall out through the holes through an awkward fall. Usually one support leg per step is sufficient. But with too shallow descent and wide steps, as well as taking into account some of the design features of designer stairs, the railing posts are placed at a distance of 10-15 cm.

In addition, there are support and intermediate balusters, and the bases of the stairs are made on thicker supports than the secondary support on the railing. However, it is also not recommended to make the railings for stairs too light - on any section the handrails must withstand a sufficient horizontal load, of the order of 100-120 kg / m. The simplest handrails are polished bars attached to metal brackets along the wall. The number of balusters of a standard staircase usually corresponds to the number of its steps.

Before you make a handrail for a staircase made of wood, you should start:

  • with the study of basic building codes;
  • calculations of wood costs;
  • preparation of the necessary tools and woodworking machines;
  • creating a project, drawings or sketches;
  • calculations of the step width of the stairs and the location of the balusters on them (at the beginning of the step or in the middle).

The main elements of the support are best made of oak, maple or beech, which crack and dry out least of all. Such a ladder will not creak even after many years if it is correctly designed. Finishing details can be carved from ash, yew, rosewood, cherry or walnut. To emphasize the natural texture of the wood pattern, it is better not to paint the handrails, but to cover them with a stain after polishing and open them with varnish.

Tip: Be sure to check the horizontal and vertical of the bars for timely adjustment, and if the level slips off the board, you can temporarily secure with tape.

The main types of stairs

The appearance of a staircase cannot be designed divorced from the overall style of the house, since a staircase is always an important aesthetic component and even its business card. Ladders are classified:

  • external and internal;
  • brownies, service, landscape, architectural;
  • entrance, interfloor, checkpoints;
  • stationary, portable and transformable;
  • one-march and multi-march;
  • straight and swivel (for 2 or more spans).

Guests may not notice some paintings on the walls, but they will definitely remember the beautiful spiral or suspended glass staircase they climbed. Therefore, if the construction of a staircase is only in the plans, contact a competent architect for the development of a project, who will offer the option that will organically fit into the design of the house. In addition, a specialist will help you to choose the type of staircase construction:

  • on bowstrings;
  • on kosoura;
  • on bolts, etc.

1. A ladder on the bolts or cantilever. This design looks impressive because it has no visible supports, and guests initially experience some anxiety when using the steps. In real life, the steps are very securely fixed to the vertical plane, withstanding an impressive load. It takes up a minimum of space, but older people are reluctant to use it. It is important to provide confidence when climbing and to restrict the ladder with good railings.

2. The ladder on kosoura rests on the support beams, fixed in a special way. The design has been used for several centuries and has proven its reliability; it is made on a large area.

3. Staircase on bowstrings looks elegant and light, it is often used as decoration in the interior, connecting the living room and the hall. It is somewhat reminiscent of a stretched rope ladder, but made of more durable materials.

4. Spiral staircases are used where there is no provision for climbing steps along the walls, but connects the first floor with a hole in the center of the ceiling on the floor above. It takes up a minimum of space, but it is not very convenient, since there will not be two people walking towards each other. But its aesthetics are usually not in doubt, and handrails are required without fail. The spiral movement determines the type of the given structure.

Standard staircases in entrances or in private multi-storey buildings are single-flight, double-flight or multi-flight swing type. A march is a sloped fragment of stairs with steps, connected by an interlevel platform. Landings between the flights provide the ability to enter, turn and go to the steps of other flights. Swivel stairs are:

  • bilateral;
  • rights;
  • left.

Also closed staircases, half-open fully open, not limited by handrails. It is worth understanding the design features not for the sake of memorizing the names, but for choosing a suitable staircase configuration for your house, based on:

  • functional (where it leads);
  • location in the house;
  • constructive design;
  • bearing support material (wood, metal, plastic, concrete goods).

Each type of ladder assumes its own type of handrails or restrictive elements, as well as types of fastening. Therefore, professionals know where to use:

  • hidden;
  • glue;
  • groove connection of structural elements.

On narrow stairs up to 130 cm, the railings are usually made on one side. On wide stairs, where it is supposed to move towards at the same time, the handrails are made symmetrically with the same angle of inclination. This angle must correspond to the degree of inclination of the staircase, that is, duplicate its geometry. The width of the handrails should not be large, that is, as comfortable as possible for the palm to be covered. At the beginning and at the end of the handrail, you need to make rounds. All these subtleties should be reflected in preliminary calculations.

How to make a railing for a staircase made of wood

Installation of a staircase with a handrail is a painstaking and time-consuming, but at the same time, a very exciting process. The simplest wooden handrail made of wood with your own hands, for any type of staircase, is easiest to make on the basis of balusters. In modern building supermarkets, various blanks or ready-made components for stair railings are sold, with the help of which the installation will be simplified. The most beautiful are chiseled balusters resembling pins.

The design of wooden railings is chosen based on the general tasks, the material used and the possibilities for woodworking.

1. To make a simple wooden railings yourself, you need to cut 2 racks from the finished timber, best 100 x 75mm. These blanks are fixed on the outside of the bowstring, below and above the march. Immediately, the level checks the accuracy of the vertical racks.

The vertical fastening is easiest to adjust with screws. Further, along the line of fastening of the supports in the center of the staircase, the 3rd post from the bar is mounted - the rest of the handrails are displayed along them.

The power tool cuts 3 workpieces 150 x 40 mm. A plane will need to process (round off) the edge, which will later become the basis of the handrail. These processed boards are fixed at an equal distance from each other, fastening to the back surface of the racks.

It is important to make sure that the supports are just above the handrail - about 50 mm. After that, the central support is cut at the required height of the handrail, now you can properly sand their surface.

2. The most beautiful wooden railings - with decorative balusters, previously turned by a woodworking machine. In practice, many do not know how to make a railing from a tree of complex configuration. To make them, you must have the professional skills of a carpenter, and good equipment.

However, you can use ready-made balusters, carved or purchased in advance. For such railings, the support consists of 3 parts. The trapezoidal base of the balusters, which serves as their support, is tightly mounted to the bowstrings using thorns. They must have a groove in the upper base for mounting the support post.

We fix the decorative piece to the central support - formed with a lathe and well polished head, with the help of thorns we fit it tightly into the grooves. We check all the elements with a careful fit before assembling the entire structure, after which we apply wood glue to the spike joints. The parts to be glued must undergo exposure, they must not be loaded earlier than after 1-2 days.

Medium decorative balusters, turned by a lathe, are collected sequentially. The baluster supports are attached with dowels to the string, based on wood glue. The base of the support baluster is securely anchored to the floor so that the edge of the ladder does not move under load.

A rail with a groove corresponding to the size of the base of the intermediate baluster, we mount it to the string, fasten it with screws with sweat. Further, in the same way, we fix the middle post of the support baluster. We put the intermediate supports with the lower end into the grooves of the rail, having previously lubricated with carpentry glue. The tops of each passing baluster are mounted in the corresponding groove on the prepared handrail.

Attention: All balusters are trimmed before installation at the same angle corresponding to the slope of the stairs. When measuring their length, the correspondence of the dowels to the depth of the grooves is taken into account - both at the base and at the times of the handrails. On the first baluster, even before the final fastening with grooves, be sure to check the verticality of the balusters with the level. Having made all the marks, we make the final bevel at the required angle, then we use the completely finished part of the staircase as a stencil for the rest of the balusters.

Fastening intermediate balusters in order:

  • insert a bar of the desired shape and length into the groove of the lower bar greased with glue, check the interval between all intermediate balusters in turn;
  • we insert the required support into the groove of the handrail based on glue, if there are doubts about the reliability of the fastening, it can be additionally fixed with nails;
  • We insert the 1st baluster into the grooves prepared in the lower bar and handrail, and grease the edges with glue (you can also duplicate it with nails);
  • we install intermediate strips between the balusters and the handrail in the grooves of the rail, lubricating with glue, and the step between them should have an equal interval between the balusters;
  • in the same way we install each subsequent detail;
  • we fasten the handrail to the support post on a metal corner, screwing it with nuts;
  • it is important to handle the rounding beautifully at the ends of the handrails;
  • after the glue has set, the handrails will have sufficient strength for everyday use.

Attention: In the lower support under the handrail, make a window for fastening the nut with a washer, and after installation, close it with a wooden washer. Polish the joint of the handrail parts well. The handrail can also be ordered in the joinery of any configuration provided by the cutter.

The railing is designed to ensure the safety of movement up the stairs. They can be of many different forms, both simple and skillful. For the manufacture of such fences, almost any material is used: metal, concrete, wood, plastic. To make them yourself, you need to take into account a lot of factors. How to understand all this and avoid mistakes is detailed below.

Features:

For glass fences, fasteners take place in this order: first, they are attached to the posts, and then handrails are attached from above. Such barriers are safe, provided that all fastenings are made correctly.

Handrails should be on all fences, they fix the entire structure. To more reliably hold the parts together, metal rods are used. The shape of the handrails should perfectly match the staircase.

All flaws will be visible if the structure is skewed from high humidity, and then all flaws can be seen with the naked eye.

It should be borne in mind that the simpler the shape of the handrails, the less chance of improper bends in the handrails.

Materials

Fences can be purchased ready-made, they can be chrome-plated fences. It is important during such a choice to calculate and take into account all the elements that may be needed. But you need to remember that this type of railings has some disadvantages. For example, their coating wears off quickly. The most susceptible to such damage are handrails installed in places of high traffic of people.

Aluminum

Making a railing yourself from aluminum is not so easy. In most cases, all parts can be purchased ready-made. You can assemble fences from ready-made parts, you just need to correctly calculate the necessary fasteners and additional elements. Aluminum railings also have a number of disadvantages: they bend upon impact, are prone to corrosion, tarnish and scratch.

Wrought iron fences

They can be cold and hot forged. Hot forging is difficult to perform at home, so most often such work is ordered at special factories. Cold forging is easier at home.But to create this kind of railings, you need highly specialized tools, equipment and skills.

The disadvantages include the high cost of such railings, the complexity of manufacturing and the availability of special tools. But they also have advantages - this is a wide variety in the design of the railings.

Stainless steel

Stainless steel railings are very common. This metal does not fade over the years, it has a beautiful luster. Railings made of it are very strong, durable and safe. But to build them yourself, you need minimal skills of a welder and metal carver.

Drawings and sketches

Before starting work, you need to determine what kind of fences will have. Then draw what you are imagining on paper. Various ready-made drawings can be used.

If you decide to create your own drawings and sketches, you should understand that you cannot do without accurate calculations. In this matter, special attention should be paid to safety and ease of movement. For plans to meet this important criterion, consider factors such as the width and height of the stairs, the size of the steps and other parameters.

It is clear that the straight and wide staircase is very comfortable. But it is far from always possible to make it the way you want it. When constructing a drawing, consider such important factors as the angle of rise of the stairs. It should not go beyond 24-36 degrees.

Clearance is the distance between the step and the ceiling. Its minimum allowable value is 2 m. It is necessary to take into account the width of the march, because the convenience of the stairs largely depends on this parameter. In a house or apartment, this indicator should not be less than 0.9-1 m.

Requirements

The main function of the handrail is to ensure safe ascent and descent of stairs. In addition, it is a decorative element and can contribute to the interior. Parapets must be made with all norms and rules in accordance with SNiP.

The height of the handrails in living quarters should be from 90 cm and higher, and for high structures, the desired height is 100–110 cm. In places where children live, the handrails should not be less than 120 cm, for the safety of the child's movement.

The handrails themselves should not be very wide, the ideal width is 6–9 cm. With this width, it is convenient to grip them by hand. If the staircase is narrow, one parapet can be installed. But when planning a wide model, two parapets are definitely needed. If children live in the house, for their convenience you need to make a second, lower handrail.

How to do it yourself?

First of all, you need to decide what height of the fences you want and what the gap between the balusters will be. The so-called pedestals are installed on the lower and upper steps. They are necessary to fix the entire structure.

When choosing pedestals, keep in mind that the diameter of the balusters should be less than their girth.

The standard height of the handrail is 95 cm, but the frame must be raised 10 cm from the ladder itself. You also need to take into account 5 cm on the handrail. Then we subtract 15 cm from the total height and get 80 cm. This is the size in which you need to cut the balusters and curbstones.

After all the work done and preparation, you can start welding. We lay out the frame from the prepared profile, and grab it quite a bit by welding. You do not need to immediately tightly weld all the elements, because in case of marriage or distortion, then you cannot avoid unnecessary work. After you have finished welding with the frame, balusters are welded to it. It is worth highlighting that the pedestals should be twice as large in diameter as the internal metal lintels.

After you have completed all the previous work and did not see any defects or distortions, you can start finishing welding. Seams need to be welded on both sides to maximize the strength of the structure.

When you have finished all the work on the frame, posts with square or round plates should be welded to the bottom side, the height of the posts should be 10 cm. Make holes in the plates, they are needed to attach them to the steps. To give the railing a finished look, you need to polish the entire structure and remove welding residues.

You can give your design a beautiful look with a variety of forged elements. They can be bought ready-made in specialized stores, where you will be offered a variety of similar accessories, various flowers, ornaments or other decorative elements. You can weld them to the frame and thus give exclusivity to the fence. Also, don't forget about the handrails themselves. Most often they are made of wood. Handrail blanks are carefully polished and rounded.

Wood options

For timber fences, materials such as pine, oak, birch or beech are suitable.

Another type of wood that is suitable for railings is beech. It is in no way inferior to oak. However, it is very sensitive to dry air. Due to the extremely dry air, beech breaks along the fibers and deforms.

Structural components of wooden fences

In wooden, as in metal structures, they distinguish: pedestals, balusters and handrails. In wooden structures, balusters also perform a decorative function, and not only a supporting one. Most often they are made from glued timber and give them various shapes.

Hand-cut is a real work of art. Craftsmen carve various patterns, designs and ornaments, and some even carve animal figures. The easiest way to decorate a staircase yourself is with flat balusters. You can cut patterns in them.

Flat baluster fencing

It has already been written above about how high the railing should be. The final height of the balusters is 80 cm. In order to complete the railing, you need boards, the width of which should be 10-15 cm, and the thickness of about 30-35 mm.

Planks can be shaped to the desired and interesting shape to create an attractive handrail. To do this, you can use a lathe. If you do not have such equipment, a regular jigsaw can replace it.

  • Draw on the paper a template that is the actual size of the baluster.
  • Using a very ordinary pencil, circle the template on all the boards.
  • After that, cut out the shape along the contour.
  • After completing this procedure, all the boards need to be cleaned with fine sandpaper and polished.

How to install?

Sculptural balusters, like metal ones, must be mounted to the steps, which should not be done with flat balusters. If flat balusters are attached to the steps, then the whole structure will turn out to be unreliable and wobbly. The balusters must be inserted into the frame, which is obtained from the handrail, the upper and lower pedestals, and the lower bar.

It is necessary to fix the balusters at a distance of 15–20 cm from each other. During operation, you can use two types of fasteners - for metal studs and grooves. If you nevertheless decide to install in the grooves, then you need to grind grooves on the details of the structure, about two centimeters in size.

Railing is an important part of the staircase. They strengthen the structure and serve as a support for people. Correctly executed railings will decorate the stairs and the interior of the house. They are made from different materials and, in accordance with its design, have all kinds of shapes and sizes.

Tools

When installing the railing, you should prepare the tools in advance:

  • chisels;
  • hacksaw and chisel;
  • hammer;
  • screwdrivers;
  • screwdriver;
  • drill;
  • drill;
  • jigsaw;
  • level;
  • marking tools - tape measure, pencil, marker.

Material

When choosing material for railings, several factors should be considered:

  • design features;
  • interior style;
  • the complexity of installation - this point is especially important when working independently.

Materials from which the railing for the stairs is made:

  • wood;

  • metal: steel, aluminum, chrome-plated metal;

  • wrought iron;

  • glass;

  • plastic.

Construction details

Elements that make up any stair railings:

  • Pedestals-supports - are installed at the beginning and end of the flight of stairs. They carry the main load, so they must be very stable. For reliability, the bollards are often installed on an additional platform. Its height is 80-90 cm. This is an average parameter at which it is convenient for a person to climb the stairs, but if desired, it can be changed.

  • Balusters are posts that are installed along the flight of stairs and support the railing. They come in any shape: round, square, flat or curly.


Wooden balusters are often hand-carved.

The distance between the posts is different, but it should not exceed 20 cm. One of the options is a solid baluster.

  • Handrail - the upper part of the handrail, the size of which corresponds to the length of the flight of stairs. It can be round, rectangular and even carved, but the main purpose of this part is user friendliness. It is he who is the support when moving up the stairs.

How to make a stair rail

Wooden railing for stairs

Material selection

Various types of wood are used for the manufacture of handrails: spruce, fir, poplar, walnut, etc. But the most reliable are oak, ash or teak products. Hardwoods allow for subtle yet safe details, and the railing has a light, graceful look.

Installation of stair railing

  1. At the end and beginning of the march, pedestals are installed. To check the selected height, a cord is pulled between them and a test ascent and descent is carried out on the stairs. The curbstones are attached and checked for stability - their "wobble" is unacceptable.
  2. The bowstring (bottom support) is attached with screws to the flight of stairs and pedestals.
  3. The frequency of the balusters is calculated, and holes are drilled in the handrail for them.
  4. The end edges of the balusters are sawn off at an angle equal to the slope of the stairs. When attaching the racks to the steps, their lower part is left straight.
  5. Balusters are installed using studs that are screwed into their base and inserted into the prepared hole in the stairs. They are tightened with nuts from the underside of the structure. Another mounting option is the use of spikes and grooves in the bowstring and handrail.
  6. Railings are installed and fixed on the balusters.
  7. Finished fences are cleaned of dust, all visible flaws on the surface are putty and varnished.

Fastening the railings with nails is the easiest way to assemble them. But it is also the most unreliable, because after a short time the structure becomes unstable. Special pins, spikes or self-tapping screws, planted on the adhesive, will provide more durable fastening of parts.

Metal railings for stairs

Material

Metal railings are purchased ready-made or ordered in a workshop - it is very difficult to make them yourself. These designs are made from different materials, which have their pros and cons.

  • Aluminum - has a low weight, affordable cost. Railings made of this material are varied in shape and configuration, but are not very durable.
  • Stainless steel is beautiful, durable and moisture resistant. It has one drawback - high cost.

  • Painted pipes are reliable and affordable, but require regular coverage.
  • Nickel-plated pipes are beautiful and not very expensive compared to "stainless steel", but they are prone to corrosion.

Railing installation

  1. On the steps of the stairs, in the places where the balusters are installed, markings are made.
  2. Holes are drilled in the marked places.
  3. The resulting dust is blown out with an industrial vacuum cleaner.
  4. Two-component glue is poured into the resulting hole, and studs are inserted.
  5. The racks are attached to the studs with a screw or welding. The level controls their vertical position.
  6. The handrail is bolted to the supports. Welding is rarely used because it requires certain skills.
  7. Weld seams are cleaned and sanded.

Wrought iron stair railing

Forged railings are assembled by welding. Items for them are sold in shops or workshops. But the best option is to order the railings from a blacksmith. According to the proposed drawing, the craftsmen will forge a unique product that will be a unique decoration of the house.

Welding work on the installation of handrails does not require special professionalism - it is enough to have a little skills on them. But it is very important to carefully approach the finishing of the finished structure. With the right materials for priming and painting the railings, they will last for many years without changing their appearance.

Railing for stairs, photo:




Metal railings can be quite sophisticated

Every house, even a one-story house, has a staircase, and often more than one. The staircase can be both a must-have element and a highlight of the interior. A good designer knows how to play up, emphasize and fit this element into the surrounding space. Railings are an integral part of the staircase. Their main function is to ensure security. But besides this, it is the stylistic solution of the railings that allows the staircase to become the dominant feature in the design solution of a particular interior. This seemingly extremely functional design can be a bright and memorable accent in the interior decoration of the house. Metallic ones allow you to embody almost any stylistic solution, regardless of whether you plan to decorate the interior in a classic style, vintage, high-tech or Provence.

First, let's understand the terminology. A railing is a ladder guarding system that provides safe ascent by protecting against falls. It consists of several elements. Balusters - supporting vertical posts, with their help, the fence is attached to the stairs.


Filling the fence - closes the space between the balusters, that is, it performs the main function of ensuring safety. Also, it is by filling the space between the balusters that you can create a completely different design for the stairs.

Important!If there are children in the house, partitions are necessary. It is safest to use solid partitions.

Filling can be done:

  • vertical or inclined elements;
  • horizontal crossbars running parallel to the handrails;
  • solid sheets.


Vertical filling of the fence


Filling the fence horizontally


Continuous filling of the fence

The handrail is the part of the handrail that lies on the balusters, and people hold onto it with their hand, leaning on when going up or down.


1. The handrail is installed in the wall. 2. The handrail is installed on the railing

Design and selection of materials for railings

Even if the staircase is not a striking decorative element of the interior, it is important to pay attention to how it looks so that it will stylistically fit into the surrounding space. And this largely depends on the choice of material. A minimalist or high-tech metal construction can negate all efforts to create a classic interior, and vice versa - too elegant, it will look awkward in a simple, unpretentious retro.


An example of a harmonious combination of a metal fence with the general interior of a room

So, let's look at the most popular materials:



... to exclusive hand-carved versions



PVC handrails and glass panels are also favorably combined



Or maybe the embodiment of luxury and wealth


Separately, it is worth noting the handrail of artistic casting, which is not inferior in luxury to "brothers" from ancient palaces

Important!If you plan to install metal railings outdoors, the structure must be treated with a special anti-corrosion compound. Otherwise, weather events will quickly ruin their appearance.

Benefits of metal railings

  • Durability - unlike wood, metal parts do not need to be updated.
  • Price. Lower in comparison with a tree (everything, however, depends on the complexity of the structure)
  • Variety of materials - aluminum profiles, steel, wrought iron, pipes, etc.
  • Variety of shapes - metal railings can provide the largest number of design options.


Metal railings can withstand hail, rain, snow, heat and other weather conditions for many years without losing their beauty

Methods for making metal railings

According to the manufacturing method, metal railings can be different. And each method has its pros and cons. Prefabricated are made of aluminum or steel parts. After assembling the parts, the steel railings will need to be painted and the aluminum railings will need to be coated. Another advantage of this option is its low weight. This is the simplest and most economical option that you can assemble with your own hands, and, if necessary, dismantle. Manufacturing and installation of prefabricated railings

Cast railings. For casting, they first draw a sketch, then make a form in which the necessary parts are cast. A laborious process, but the resulting result has two indisputable advantages:
  • durability
  • almost endless variety of shapes


The durability of the cast railing makes it an excellent choice for outdoor installations


Indoors, such railings can also look gorgeous.

Combined railings are the most versatile and very interesting option. The combination with glass and wood allows you to implement a wide variety of design ideas that will fit into almost any interior.


Most often, metal railings are complemented by wooden handrails.


Recently, more and more metal railings are combined with glass panels.

Wrought iron is most often used in classical styles such as baroque or rococo. Elegant and sophisticated, they look exquisite and rich, creating an openwork light pattern. They will add charm and a sense of luxury to any room. Wrought iron railings can be made in a wide variety of colors - bronze, gold, silver, copper, etc. Perhaps the only drawback of this option is the high price.


Forged railings are suitable as for internal stairs ...


So for the decoration of the porch


White forged railings look especially exquisite

Stainless steel railings (welded) are strong enough, reliable and durable. The principle of their manufacture is simple: pieces of steel or cast iron rods are welded in the form of a lattice, which is covered with paint. Stainless steel railings are commonly used in modern high-tech or minimalist styles. In fact, when processed, they can turn out to be very beautiful fences with geometric patterns that will look great in classic versions. Welded iron railings can corrode and need periodic painting. Steel products are free from these disadvantages. Welding stainless steel railings

Design requirements

When designing and creating metal fences, it is important to remember not only about the design, but also about the safety of the structure. In order for fences to fulfill their protective function, several requirements must be observed during design:

  • The height of the fences ranges from 90 cm to 1 m.
  • The distance between the posts is no more than 60 cm.
  • If there are small children in the house, or the fences are designed for a childcare facility (kindergarten, hospital), the distance between the racks is reduced to 10 cm so that the baby cannot stick his head between them.
  • The distance from the handrail attached to the wall to the wall is 7-10 cm.
  • The fence can withstand a load of 100kg per m2.
  • The handrails, which a person holds with his hand during descent, are made smooth and continuous, the cross-sectional area is at least 5 cm.
  • The handrails protrude 30 cm beyond the line of steps, their end is made rounded.


An example of calculating a handrail for a staircase

A staircase in a house usually takes up a lot of space and is used repeatedly every day for many years, therefore, its design, convenience and safety must be treated very carefully even at the design stage. In order for you to get beautiful, easy-to-use, high-quality fences that will serve you for many years, all stages are equally important: choice of material, design, manufacture and installation. Therefore, the best choice is to entrust this process to experienced professionals who will make high-quality fences for you, taking into account all your wishes and conditions in which the structure will be used.

Although stair rails are considered a minor structural detail because they are not always used, they are important enough to tell about them. The main function is to ensure safety and convenience when moving on a flight of stairs. The design of the railings plays an important role.

Wood, concrete, metal and glass are traditionally used for manufacturing. The latter is usually used to fill the gaps between the posts.

In this article we will talk about metal railings for stairs .

Railings and railings - stock photos and pictures

Railing sketches are an integral part of the design and help to present the final picture in more detail. For these purposes, photographs of railings, computer graphics or freehand drawing are suitable.

Stair railings

Railings - these are staircase fences that protect a person from falling out and ensure convenient operation of the structure. Railing accessories:

  • Balusters ... Support posts with which the railing is attached to the stairs. Carry out load-bearing and decorative functions.
  • Filling fences ... It is necessary in order to close the space between the posts, and thus, to ensure the safety of movement on the stairs. Partitions are required if there are children in the house. There are several main types of filling (shown in the photo).
    1. classic. Consist only of vertical or inclined balusters;
    2. solid panels. Such a fence is a set of wide sheets. As a rule, they are used when combining railings with glass.
    3. filling with crossbars. In this case, the space between the balusters is closed by horizontal metal rods - crossbars or rails, located parallel to the handrails.

Handrails - elements of the fence, which are installed on the balusters on one side of the flight of stairs or on both. Can also be wall-mounted. The handrail covers provide a comfortable and pleasant grip.

Types of handrails for stairs - materials and manufacturing methods

Before explaining how to make a railing for a staircase, we need to choose which metal is best for our purposes.

  • aluminum;
  • iron;
  • cast iron;
  • railings made of steel.

The choice of material depends on many factors, but the most important is the purpose of the product. For example, stainless steel is the best choice for outdoor railing, which makes nickel-plated railings. Or cast iron, products from which can be seen in old porches or on bridges.

Aluminum railings are great for indoor use and can take on more complex shapes (screw or pivot). Iron is usually used for mass production. It is difficult to process and is not suitable for homemade products.

According to the manufacturing method, the following types of railings are distinguished:

Prefabricated Staircase Railings

The railing is assembled from steel or aluminum parts. In the first case, upon completion of the work, the railings are painted, in the second, a special protective coating is applied. Aluminum railings have the following advantages:

  • ease of installation (the ability to do it yourself);
  • cheapness;
  • low weight of the structure.

The listed advantages are due to the fact that prefabricated fences are made without welding. If necessary, the structure can be easily dismantled.

By the method of applying a protective coating, handrails and handrails are divided into:

  • polymer-coated fences;
  • handrail in anodized aluminum.
  • steel with chrome plating.


Welded railings for stairs - photo of metal railings

Welded stair railings are made of steel or ferrous metal. Their advantage is strength and durability. However, with proper finishing, such products are also very beautiful. To shape the stainless steel railings, the metal cold bending method is used. This type of construction is characterized by the presence of geometric ornaments.

The disadvantage of welded iron railings is their susceptibility to corrosion and the need for periodic painting. Stainless steel railings do not have this drawback. The service life of such products is about 50 years. They do not need painting or additional maintenance. If necessary, handrail repair can be done. The surface of the steel is processed using polishing, grinding or satin finishing.

Railing welding is divided into two types:

  • semi-automatic;
  • argon-arc.

The disadvantage of the first method is the large amount of splashes. The second method is free of this drawback and therefore is more common. The seam with argon welding is more accurate and lends itself well to further processing, which includes cleaning and polishing. The handrail is fastened using a hardware assembly or by gluing with a special glue.

Wrought iron railing for stairs - photo of stair railings

Wrought iron stair railings are distinguished by their exquisite appearance and sophisticated manufacturing process. They are carried out by the method of artistic forging, often according to an individual project. Any options for finishing and mixing styles are possible - from light, openwork, airy structures to massive ones that create a feeling of reliability.

Forged stair railings will give any product or interior a peculiar charm of antiquity and good quality.

Wrought iron stair railings provide a huge variety of colors: gold, silver, copper, etc. The only drawback of such products is their extremely high price.

Cast railings and railings

To make cast fences and railings, a sample of the future product is first prepared, according to which the mold is made. Next, molten metal (bronze, cast iron, brass) is poured into it. After the material hardens, it is additionally processed. Casting has a number of advantages:

  • durability and strength;
  • variety of forms.

Combined stair railing

Combined fences provide a combination of different materials. For example, powder coated chrome railings, steel handrails and glass inserts, or aluminum handrails. This variety makes the combined railings a versatile solution, suitable for almost every staircase.

Stair Railing Requirements - Handrail and Handrail Standards

Requirements for fences (GOST and SNiP) are due to their main function - to ensure safety during ascent and descent. In this regard, the design must comply with certain standards:

  • the height of the staircases is from 90 cm to one meter.
  • racks are installed from each other at a distance of about 60 cm;
  • the space between the balusters is filled with one of the above methods;
  • if the handrail is mounted on a wall, then the distance from it to the wall should be 7-10 cm;
  • handrail overlays must be smooth and continuous, have a cross section of 5 cm;
  • handrails for stairs protrude 30 cm beyond the step line and have a rounded end;
  • the structure must withstand a load of at least 100 kg per meter.

On ladders installed in childcare facilities, the handrail should be duplicated at a height of 50 cm. And the distance between the racks is reduced to 10 cm so that the child cannot stick his head.

DIY handrail installation - installation of stair railings video

It is difficult to overestimate how important reliable installation of stair railings is. First of all, the safety of people depends on this. If you do not know how to install the railings, but want to do everything yourself, choose one of two methods:

Fastening the handrail to the wall - ladder installation

Fixing the handrail to the wall is used if the ladder is located near the wall. In this case, stands are not needed, the handrails are installed using special brackets, the size of which is calculated so that the distance from the handrail to the wall is about 7-10 cm.

The handrail bracket can be of two types:

  • cast;
  • articulated.

When using the second type, it is possible to adjust the inclination of the handrail, which is very convenient. The structure is easy to assemble and can be quickly dismantled if necessary.


Fastening balusters to steps - handrails to stairs

Installation of balusters can be done in three ways:

  1. single - the simplest and least reliable method, when the stand is fixed only on the anchor (dowel). But, as a rule, it is quite enough;
  2. flange mount - involves fixing the flange with self-tapping screws. For maximum reliability, use three self-tapping screws;
  3. anti-vandal fastening of fences - the most reliable. With the help of a drill, pits are drilled in the steps and mortgages are placed in them, on which the pipes for the railing are attached.

Mount on a step

  1. The installation of the railings in this way begins with the fact that the places where the racks will be located are outlined on the steps. They should be located at a distance of 5-10 cm from the edges of the step and at a distance of 30-60 cm from each other.
  2. First and last pillar are installed first. Single mount for this, pits 12 cm deep and 16 mm in diameter are drilled in the steps. Anchors (dowels) are inserted into the pits, on which balusters are mounted.


    For flange mounting three holes are drilled with a depth of 8 cm and a diameter of 1.2 cm, into which dowels are inserted. The flange is fixed with self-tapping screws and the stand is attached to it. An example is shown in the photo. During installation, you must ensure that the entrance pillars are vertical, as they will be a guide for the rest of the balusters.


  3. Pull the cord along the top of the outer racks and install the balusters, aligning them along the cord. Then check the verticality of each and attach to the steps.

    The stainless steel handrails can be attached either over the balusters, with self-tapping screws, or from the side, using flanges.

  4. Before installation, cut the stainless handrails to the required length at right angles. Determine where you need to drill holes by attaching the handrail to the posts. Place on hinges and secure.
  5. If the space between the posts is filled with crossbars, then it is necessary to cut them into pieces of the desired size, determine the attachment points on the posts (usually 2 or 3) and drill holes. Fix the transom to the balusters.



    If glass panels are used as filling, then special holders must be installed on the rack and the panels must be fixed with their help.


The disadvantage of fastening "on a step" is that the fence reduces the width of the march. Therefore, this method is undesirable for narrow staircases. In this case, it is preferable to mount the racks in the end.

Fastening balusters to the end of the step

Such fastening of the railing is possible when the distance between the flights is at least 70 cm. The baluster is installed on the butt end using two anchors. There are four possible ways:

  1. Fastening of balusters to two expansion anchors through a sleeve. It is used in cases when it is necessary to place the rack at a short distance from the step. At the end of the step, 2 recesses are drilled into which expansion anchors are inserted through holes in the posts and bushings with decorative overlays so that the end of the anchor protrudes slightly. A cap nut is screwed onto this end, expanding and fixing it.


  2. Side mount. In this case, the balusters are threaded into special holders and fixed. And the expansion anchors attach them to the staircase.


  3. On two expansion anchors without a sleeve. In this case, the rack is closely adjacent to the end of the step. It differs from the first method only in that the sleeve is not used.
  4. Fastening to a chemical anchor. Chemical or liquid nails are an adhesive substance that penetrates deep into concrete and holds it firmly together. This method is used if it is necessary to fix the railings of staircases into a concrete structure. So, an anchor and a hairpin are inserted into the hole filled with the mixture.


After the balusters are fixed, the residual installation of the railing is carried out. In the same way as when installing the HA stage (described above). Stainless steel stair railings are ready.

  • racks cannot be installed in places of height difference and bending of handrails (fracture);
  • during installation, at points of branch and fracture, it is necessary to adjust the docking as accurately as possible;
  • the joints of the crossbars, if possible, should be performed so that they are closed with fasteners or special fittings;
  • when installing the racks on tiled steps, a mark must be made on the surface so that the drill with the diamond crown does not slip.

Subject to these rules, you can assemble the handrail for the stairs with your own hands. This is a very real task, if you approach it methodically and slowly.