That is why coniferous seedlings turn yellow. Why do thuja, pine, spruce needles turn yellow in autumn

If you bought a coniferous plant at an exhibition or in a store and noticed that its needles turn yellow, or you have a pine or thuja growing in the open field for a long time, but at one point you notice that on one particular side or in general the whole crown begins turn yellow, then we bring to your attention 5 main reasons, and probably the only ones, from which the needles turn yellow in conifers. The main thing is to react in time to save the plant. Some reasons are not fatal, while other reasons can severely damage the ephedra and you will have to "pant" over it.

The first reason is why the needles turn yellow. The most common cause is lack of watering. In the store there are conifers in pots, containers, their needles are green ... And inexperienced sellers can rarely water them, the needles do not wither, and the green one is worth it! Remember, your New Year tree or pine tree has been standing for so long, that is, by its appearance it is not entirely possible to understand whether it has enough water or not.

Here they dried out an earthen lump in the store, then they remembered, poured it. But the little roots that absorb moisture the most and fastest are dead. And so that the industry needs to help the plant with fertilizer or growth accelerator, periodically water it on time.

Therefore, when buying an ephedra in a store or nursery, be guided by the seller's conscience rather than the appearance of the soil. Even if it is watered, it may mean that it was watered only today, and the coniferous plant stood dry for a week. And when you bring the ephedra home, then in a week its needles may turn yellow.

It is best, of course, to know in advance the quality of the company or the seller; it may be necessary, if a store or nursery is not far from you, to periodically visit and observe the plants, how they are looked after. Conifers in pots photo:

If you bought such an "underwatered" plant, and the needles began to turn yellow at your home, then if you want to plant a plant in open ground, we advise that such sufferers should not be planted in dry sandy soil, especially lime, with a shallow fertile layer. They will be sick for a long time. In this case, you need to specially prepare a hole for planting, so that there is enough fertile soil in it, and you need to plant it with a lump so as not to tear off the already weak roots.

The second reason is why the needles turn yellow. This is an inappropriate late landing. As the saying goes, "Fryer's greed killed." If you planted an ephedra in late autumn and it did not have time to take root, it will take root, that is, winter soon came, frosts, the soil froze, then the coniferous plant's needles will turn yellow, since the roots do not absorb moisture, they sleep, and the needles continue to evaporate moisture. Yes, conifers in winter, especially on clear days, evaporate moisture from the needles. As a result, the plant becomes dehydrated, the needles turn yellow and fall.

To save the plant:

1. - shelter it from frost and sun;

2.-clear snow around the ephedra so that it forms a side around the trunk and at least every other day water the ephedra with warm enough water (60 degrees). When the water is absorbed into the cold earth, it will take the desired temperature. And the snow side will also create a protective zone so that drafts do not freeze the soil more. Planting conifers in late autumn photo:

The third reason is why the needles turn yellow. Sunburn. Most often in winter and early spring, when the snow has not yet melted, the sun's rays, reflecting from the white snow, create even more illumination near the plant, almost 2 times more intense. Therefore, the needles turn yellow and fall off. After all, there is little moisture in the soil, and the needles water supplies begin to evaporate more and more from sunlight. Of course, you don't need to water the conifers all winter.

Of course, it is advisable to water at least once a month, but conifers will save shelters from the sun. You can cover it with thick paper, burlap, a special covering material, which can now be bought at any garden store, or the same coniferous spruce branches. Coniferous sunburn photos:

The fourth reason is why the needles turn yellow. Fungi, that is, fungal diseases, can cause yellowing and dropping of needles. These are the fungi that most often cause diseases of conifers such as different types of shute and various rust. Fungi can appear from improper plant care, frequent plantings in which there are no ventilated places, constant shade. For conifers, carry out preventive treatment, as fungi can be everywhere in the soil and air. For prophylaxis, spraying with a foundation is suitable (10 grams per 10 liters of water with an interval of 10 days).

If the needles have already turned yellow and you have not identified any other reasons, therefore, most likely, it is the wine of fungi, then treat the conifers with biological products - Fitosporin - M, Alirin, Gamair. These biological products fight against fungi, but to strengthen the immunity of the plant itself, then treat the conifers with Zircon and Epin - extra. Needle rust:

The fifth reason is why the needles turn yellow... Conifers have enough pests that like to spoil the appearance of plants, or even completely lead to death. For example, thuja aphid or spruce aphid Sitka. Most often, aphids attack thuja, Sitka, prickly and Serbian pines.

Place a white leaf under the branch and tap on the branch with your hand. If dark "goats" have fallen on a leaf, then your conifers are "eaten" by aphids. You can get rid of aphids on conifers if you often spray the plants with potassium soap, strong infusion of garlic, wormwood or other herbs.

All the same, not chemistry ...

Aphids on needles photo:

Another pest of conifers can be a moth - a nun, or rather voracious caterpillars of a dirty white, gray color. If you have few conifers and you perfectly notice the caterpillars, then most of them can be collected and destroyed, but keep in mind that these caterpillars affect the needles so that the branches remain bare. Therefore, in addition, it is better to spray the conifers with Bitoxibacillin or other preparations of Decis, Karate.

Also, your coniferous plants can be spoiled by spider mites and spruce leafworms. When the plants are affected by the leafworm, the needles turn yellow, a fairly noticeable cobweb appears and small caterpillars eating the needles are visible inside. If you begin to notice the cobweb on the needles, then first we undertake mechanical processing.

We put on gloves, gently cover the branch with our hands and, as it were, pull the cobwebs off them in the direction of the needles growth. You can rotate, shake the twigs. Then we process the plants with colloidal sulfur, strong infusion of dandelion or garlic.

If the branches are severely affected, then we treat them with a solution of liquid soap so that the insects stick and suffocate, and then we remove these branches. If you have a lot of conifers and everyone began to be eaten by pests together, then we advise you not to waste your time, but use chemical insecticidal preparations, in which case you will definitely save your plants.

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Why do the needles turn yellow in thuja and other conifers in the fall!
Fertilizers for conifers - as easy as shelling pears!
Winter care for conifers

They do not lose their attractiveness and decorativeness throughout the year, and, as a rule, live longer than many deciduous species. They are an excellent material for creating compositions due to the varied shape of the crown and the color of the needles. The most widely used in professional and amateur gardening are such coniferous shrubs as junipers, yew, thuja; from wood - pine, larch, spruce. Therefore, information about their main diseases is relevant. The issue of treating conifers is especially acute in the spring, when you have to deal with burning, winter desiccation and infectious diseases on plants weakened after winter.

First of all it should be mentioned non-communicable diseases,caused by the negative impact on the growth and development of conifers of unfavorable environmental conditions. Although conifers are demanding on high soil and air humidity, excessive moisture associated with natural waterlogging, rising groundwater levels, spring floods and heavy autumn precipitation leads to yellowing and necrotization of the needles. The same symptoms very often appear due to a lack of moisture in the soil and low air humidity.

Thuja, spruce, yews are very sensitive to drying out of the roots, therefore, immediately after planting, it is recommended to mulch their trunks with peat and grass mown from lawns, if possible, maintain mulching during the entire period of their growth, and water regularly. The most drought-resistant are pines, thuja and junipers. In the first year after planting, it is advisable to spray young plants with water in the evening and shade them in the hot period. The overwhelming majority of conifers are shade-tolerant; when grown in open sunny places, they may stagnate, their needles may turn yellow and even die off. On the other hand, many of them cannot stand strong shading, especially pines and larch are light-requiring. To protect the bark from sunburn, it can be whitewashed with lime or special whitewashing in early spring or late autumn.

The condition and appearance of plants largely depend on the supply of nutrients and the balance of their ratios. The lack of iron in the soil leads to yellowing and even whitening of the needles on individual shoots; with a lack of phosphorus, young needles acquire a red-purple hue; with a nitrogen deficiency, the plants grow noticeably worse, become chlorotic. The best growth and development of plants occurs on well-drained and well-cultivated soils, provided with nutrients. Slightly acidic or neutral soil is preferred. It is recommended to feed with special fertilizers intended for conifers. In summer cottages, conifers can suffer from frequent visits by dogs and cats, which cause an excessive concentration of salts in the soil. In such cases, shoots with red needles appear on thuja and juniper, which subsequently dry out.

Low temperatures in winter and spring frosts cause freezing of the crown and roots, while the needles become dry, acquire a reddish color, die off, and the bark cracks. The most winter-hardy are spruces, pines, fir, thuja, junipers. Branches of coniferous plants can break off from the gorse and snow break in winter.

Many conifers are sensitive to air pollution from harmful industrial and automobile gaseous impurities. This is manifested, first of all, by yellowing, starting from the ends of the needles and their falling off (death).

Conifers are rarely severely affected infectious diseases, although in some cases they can suffer greatly from them. Young plants are generally less resistant to a complex of non-infectious and infectious diseases, with age their resistance increases.

Types of soil-dwelling fungi of the genera Pytium(pitium) and Rhizoctonia (rhizoctonia) lead roots of seedlings to decay and withering awayoften cause significant losses of young plants in schools and containers.

The causative agents of tracheomycotic wilting are most often anamorphic fungi. Fusarium oxysporum, which are classified as soil pathogens. The affected roots turn brown, the mycelium penetrates into the vascular system and fills it with its biomass, which stops the access of nutrients, and the affected plants wither, starting from the upper shoots. The needles turn yellow, turn red and fall off, and the plants themselves gradually dry out. Seedlings and young plants are most affected. The infection persists in plants, plant debris and spreads with infected planting material or with infected soil. The development of the disease is facilitated by: stagnant water in low areas, lack of sunlight.

Use healthy planting material as protective measures. Timely remove all dried plants with roots, as well as affected plant debris. For preventive purposes, short-term soaking of young plants with an open root system is carried out in a solution of one of the drugs: Baktofit, Vitaros, Maxim. At the first symptoms, the soil is spilled with a solution of one of the biological products: Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B, Gamair. For prevention purposes, the soil is spilled with Fundazol.

Gray mold (rot) affects the aerial parts of young plants, especially in unventilated areas with strong thickening of plantings and insufficient lighting. Affected shoots turn gray-brown, as if covered with a layer of dust.

In addition to these diseases, which are widespread on deciduous trees, there are diseases that are characteristic only of conifers. First of all, they include shute, the causative agents of which are some types of ascomycete fungi.

Common pine shute

Real shute Lophodermium seditiosum - one of the main reasons for premature falling of pine needles. Young plants are mainly affected, incl. in the open field of nurseries, and weakened trees, which can lead to their death due to strong falling of needles. During spring and early summer, the needles become brown and fall off. In autumn, small yellowish dots are noticeable on the needles, gradually growing and turning brown, later on the dead, crumbling needles, dotted black fruit bodies are formed - apothecia, by which the fungus persists.

Common pine shutehaving similar symptoms and developmental cycle causes Lophodermium pinastri. In the fall, or more often in the spring of next year, the needles turn yellow or become reddish-brown and die off. Then the fruiting bodies of the fungus are formed on it in the form of small black strokes or dots, blackening and increasing by autumn. Thin dark transverse lines appear on the needles. Dispersion of spores and infection of needles is facilitated by moderately warm weather, drizzling rains and dew. Weakened plants in nurseries and crops up to 3 years of age and self-seeding of pine are more often affected and killed.

Called by the fungus Phlacidium infestans, which affects mainly pine species. It is especially harmful in areas with many snows, where sometimes it completely destroys the renewal of Scots pine.

It develops under snow cover and develops relatively quickly even at temperatures around 0 degrees. The mycelium grows from needles to needles and often further to neighboring plants. After the snow melts, the dead needles and often shoots turn brown and die off. Diseased plants are covered with grayish, rapidly disappearing mycelium films. During the summer, the needles die off, become reddish-red, later light gray. It crumbles, but almost does not fall off. In a twisted pine ( Pinus contorta) dead needles are more reddish than those of Scots pine. By the fall, apothecia become visible, like small dark dots scattered over the needles. Ascospores from them are spread by air currents on living pine needles just before they are usually covered with snow. The development of the fungus is favored by drizzling rains, falling and melting of snow in autumn, mild snowy winters, and prolonged spring.

Brown shute, or brown coniferous snow mold affects pines, fir, spruce, cedars, junipers, caused by a fungus Herpotrichia nigra... It is found more often in nurseries, young stands, self-seeding and young undergrowth. This disease manifests itself in early spring after the snow melts, and the primary infection of needles with ascospores occurs in the fall. The disease develops under snow at temperatures not lower than 0.5 ° C. The defeat is found after the snow melts: on the brown dead needles, a black-gray cobweb bloom of the mycelium is noticeable, and then the dotted fruiting bodies of the pathogen fungus. The needles do not fall off for a long time, thin branches die off. The development of the disease is facilitated by high humidity, the presence of depressions in the cultivated areas, and the thickening of plants.

Signs of defeat juniper schütte(causative agent - mushroom Lophodermium juniperinum) appear in early summer on last year's needles, which acquire a dirty yellow or brown color and do not crumble for a long time. From the end of summer on the surface of the needles, round fruit bodies, black up to 1.5 mm, are noticeable, in which marsupial sporulation of the fungus remains in winter. The disease develops intensively on weakened plants, in humid conditions, and can lead to plant death.

Protective measures against shute include the selection of planting material that is sustainable in origin, giving the plants as much resistance as possible, timely thinning, and the use of fungicidal spraying. Shaded plants are most susceptible to disease. The harmfulness of shute increases with high snow cover and prolonged melting. In forests and parks, instead of natural regeneration, planting of plants of the necessary origin is recommended. The planted plants are more evenly distributed over the area, making it more difficult for mycelium to infest one plant from another, in addition, they quickly reach a height above the critical level. In those areas where Schütte damages Scots pine, you can use twisted pine or European spruce, which is extremely rare. Only healthy planting material should be used. It is recommended to remove fallen diseased needles in a timely manner to cut off dried branches.

Fungicidal treatments must be used in nurseries. Spraying with copper-containing and sulfuric preparations (for example, Bordeaux mixture, Abiga-Peak or HOM, lime-sulfur broth) in early spring and autumn effectively reduces the development of diseases. When the disease manifests itself to a strong degree in the summer, the spraying is repeated.

Of particular importance for conifers are rust diseasescaused by fungi of the Basidiomycot division, class Uredinomycetes, infecting the needles and bark of shoots, in fact all of their pathogens are of different households, and pass from conifers to other plants, causing their defeat. Here is a description of some of them.

Cones rust, spruce wither... On the inside of the spruce scales, which is the intermediate host of the rust fungus Puccinia strumareolatum, rounded, dusty dark brown eciopustules appear. The cones are wide open, hanging for several years. The seeds are not germinable. Sometimes shoots are bent, the disease in this form is called spruce wither. The main host is bird cherry, on the leaves of which small round light purple uredinio, then black teliopustules appear.

Summons Rust Mushroom Melampsora pinitorqua... The ecial stage develops on the pine, as a result of which its shoots bend in an S-shape, the top of the shoot dies off. Aspen is the main host. In summer, small yellow urediniopustules form on the underside of the leaves, the spores of which cause mass infection of the leaves. Then, by autumn, black teliopustules form, in the form of which the fungus overwinters on plant debris.

Pine needles rust cause several species of the genus Coleosporium. Affects mainly double-doubled species of the genus Pinus, is found everywhere in their ranges, mainly in nurseries and young growth. Etsiostadia fungus develops in spring on pine needles. Yellow vesicle-like eciopustules are located in disorder on both sides of the needles, uredo- and teliospores are formed on coltsfoot, wild rose, sow thistle, bellflower and other herbaceous plants. With a strong spread of the disease, the needles turn yellow and fall off prematurely, and the plants lose their decorative effect.

Miscellaneous mushroom Cronartium ribicola causes pine whirligig(five-coniferous pines) , or columnar currant rust. First, the needles become infected, gradually the fungus spreads into the bark and wood of branches and trunks. In places of lesion, resin is released and eciopustulae in the form of yellow-orange vesicles appear from ruptures of the cortex. Under the influence of the mycelium, a thickening is formed, eventually turning into open wounds, the overlying part of the shoot dries up or bends. The intermediate host is currant, rarely gooseberries can be affected, numerous pustules in the form of small columns, orange, then brown, are formed on the underside of their leaves.

Mushrooms of the genus Gymnosporangium (G. comfusum, G. juniperinu, G. sabinae), pathogens juniper rust infect cotoneaster, hawthorn, apple, pear, quince, which are intermediate hosts. In the spring, the disease develops on their foliage, causing the formation of yellowish outgrowths (pustules) on the underside of the leaves, and round orange spots with black dots are visible on the upper side (ecial stage). From the end of summer, the disease passes to the main host plant - juniper (teliostadia). From autumn and early spring, yellow-orange gelatinous masses of sporulation of the pathogen fungus appear on its needles and branches. On the affected parts of the branches, spindle-shaped thickenings appear, and the death of individual skeletal branches begins. On the trunks, more often on the root collar, swelling and sagging are formed, on which the bark dries out and shallow wounds open. Over time, the affected branches dry out, the needles turn brown and crumble. The infection persists in the affected juniper bark. The disease is chronic, practically incurable.

Rust of birch, larch - Melampsoridium betulinum. Small yellow pustules appear on the underside of birch and alder leaves in spring, yellowing, the growth of shoots decreases. Larch, which is the main host, turns yellow needles in summer.

As protective measures against rust diseasesspatial isolation from affected plants with a common pathogen can be recommended. So, you should not grow poplar and aspen next to pines, five-coniferous pines should be isolated from black currant plantings. Cutting the affected shoots, increasing resistance through the use of micronutrient fertilizers and immunostimulants will reduce the harmfulness of rust.

Causative agents desiccation of juniper branches there may be several mushrooms: Cytospora pini, Diplodia juniperi, Hendersonia notha, Phoma juniperi, Phomopsis juniperovora, Rhabdospora sabinae... Drying of the bark and the formation of numerous brown and black fruit bodies on it are observed. The needles turn yellow and fall off, the branches of the bushes dry out. The infection persists in the bark of affected branches and uncleaned plant debris. Thickened planting and the use of contaminated planting material contribute to the spread.

Tui can often also appear shrinking, drying of shoots and branches,caused more often by the same fungal pathogens. Typical manifestation is yellowing and falling of leaves from the ends of the shoot, browning of the young growth of branches; in humid conditions, fungal sporulation is noticeable on the affected parts.

The causative agent of which is a mushroom Pestalotiopsis funerea causes a necrotic disease of the bark of the branches and the browning of the needles. On the affected tissues, olive-black sporulation of the fungus is formed in the form of individual pads. With a strong drying of the branches in hot weather, the pads dry out and take the form of scabs. With an abundance of moisture, a grayish-black mycelium develops on the affected needles and bark of the stems. Affected branches and needles turn yellow and dry out. The infection persists in the affected plant debris and in the bark of drying branches.

Sometimes on juniper plants appears biorella cancer... Its causative agent is a mushroom Biatorella difformis, is the conidial stage of the marsupial fungus Biatoridina pinastri... With mechanical damage to the branches, over time, pathogenic microorganisms begin to develop in the bark and wood, causing bark necrosis. The fungus spreads in the tissues of the bark, the bark turns brown, dries up, and cracks. The wood gradually dies off and longitudinal ulcers form. Rounded fruiting bodies are formed over time. The defeat and dying off of the bark leads to the fact that the needles turn yellow and dry out. The infection persists in the bark of the affected branches.

Causative agent nectria juniper cancer is a marsupial mushroom Nectria cucurbitula, with conidial stage Zythia cucurbitula... On the surface of the affected bark, numerous brick-red sporulation pads up to 2 mm in diameter are formed, over time they darken and dry out. The development of the fungus causes the death of the bark and bast of individual branches. The needles turn yellow and fall off, the affected branches and whole bushes dry up. The infection persists in the bark of affected branches and plant debris. The spread of infection is facilitated by thickened plantings and the use of contaminated planting material.

In recent years, in many cultures, incl. conifers, mushrooms of the genus Alternaria. Causative agent alternaria juniper is a mushroom Alternaria tenuis... On the affected needles, which become brown, and on the branches, a velvety bloom of black appears. The disease manifests itself when plantings are thickened on the branches of the lower tier. The infection persists in the affected needles and bark of branches and in plant debris.

To combat drying out and alternaria, you can use preventive spraying of plants in spring and autumn with Bordeaux mixture, Abiga-Peak, copper chloride. If necessary, in the summer, spraying is repeated every 2 weeks. The use of healthy planting material, timely pruning of affected branches, disinfection of individual wounds and all sections with a solution of copper sulfate and smearing with oil paint on natural drying oil significantly reduce the prevalence of diseases.

Larch cancercauses marsupial mushroom Lachnellulawillkommii... Its mycelium is distributed in the bark and wood of larch branches during its spring and autumn growth dormancy. The next summer, new bark and wood are built up around the wound. As preventive protective measures, it is recommended to plant resistant species of larch, grow them in favorable conditions, do not thicken, and avoid frost damage.

Some types of mushrooms can settle on the stems of conifers. tinder fungi, forming on the bark rather large fruiting bodies, annual and perennial, causing cracking of the bark, as well as rot of roots and wood. For example, pine wood affected by a root sponge is first purple, then white spots appear on it, which turn into voids. The wood becomes cellular, sieve.

Thuja stem rot is often caused by tinder fungi: pine sponge Porodaedalea pini, causing a variegated red rot of the trunk and the tinder fungus Sveinitsa - Phaeolus schweinitzii, which is the causative agent of brown central fissured root rot. In both cases, the fruiting bodies of the fungus are formed on the rot of the wood. In the first case, they are perennial, woody, the upper part is dark brown, up to 17 cm in diameter, in the second mushroom, annual fruiting bodies in the form of flat caps, often on legs, are arranged in groups. Affected plants gradually die, and unharvested dried plants and their parts are a source of infection.

It is necessary to cut out sick, damaged, dried branches in a timely manner, cut off the fruiting bodies of polypores. Wound injuries are cleaned and treated with putty or varnish-based paint. Use healthy planting material. You can carry out preventive spraying of plants in spring and autumn with Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes. Grubbing stumps is obligatory.

It rarely happens that the summer resident is not guilty in this case - as a rule, the owner of the site himself made mistakes, for which the plants pay.

Why conifers turn yellow in spring

Take a look at the list of such erroneous actions and tick the boxes that correspond to your actions:


  1. During planting, a large amount (more than 30-50 g) of mineral fertilizers was added to the planting pit, and the roots were in contact with the granules in the soil.

  2. After planting, regular watering of the plants was not provided during the season ("plant, water and forget").

  3. The podzimny water-charging irrigation, vital for conifers, was not carried out (before the onset of frost), which would provide a good turgor (moisture filling) of the needles.

  4. The needles were not shaded sufficiently for the winter. The fact is that in February or early spring, the sun makes the needles evaporate moisture, and the roots located in the frozen ground are not able to provide this moisture. Plants simply "burn out", unable to protect themselves from bright rays.

  5. The treatment of plants against diseases and pests of needles was not carried out last season and in the spring.

What to do if the plants have already turned yellow

If we are talking about small blotches of yellow needles in late February and early March, then it is still quite possible to protect trees with shading materials.


In no case should you wrap up the plants with lutrasil (spunbond) completely. The material itself weakly retains the sun, while the needles continue to actively evaporate moisture, and the "cocoon" creates a greenhouse effect inside, leading to damping, fading and, ultimately, to yellowing of the needles. Often, under lutrasil, the plant turns yellow more than uncovered.


To effectively protect individual plants from the sun, use burlap and special shading nets, which allow the needles to avoid bright rays and allow them to ventilate.



By the way, you should not completely exclude the use of lutrasil. It can be used to build beautiful screens that slightly shade plants, but do not accumulate moisture.


The easiest option is to throw fabric on the tree only from the south side and secure it in this position with twine or ordinary office staples right along the branches. The result is that the plant is shaded but well ventilated.


If the needles turn yellow in April-May

Well, most often this phenomenon is quite reversible and fixable. Do not immediately cut off the branches with yellowed needles. In some plants, shoots with young needles can regrow on them (for example, in thuja).


Only in cases where the knots are clearly dry and break off easily with a dry cut, you need to carefully cut them with a hacksaw or cut with a pruner.


So how can we help the affected conifers?


1. Treat the plant with a mixture of an insecticide and a fungicide for prophylaxis. it is difficult for a non-specialist to determine the presence of signs of diseases or pests on a plant.


To do this, add 4 ml of Topaz and 20 ml of Actellik to 10 liters of water (if you do not find Actellik on sale, you can replace it with Aktara or Fufanon preparations). In the same tank mixture, be sure to add an ampoule of Zircon preparation, this is an excellent stimulant that will help plants recover.



2. Water the plants abundantly, especially if you suspect you have gone too far with mineral fertilizers when planting. After washing the soil, water the conifers again, adding 1 ampoule of Zircon to the water. In this case, it is used as a root stimulant.


3. Do not apply any top dressing either under the root or on the needles until new shoots appear.


4. In the morning, evening or on cloudy days, spray the crown with plain water.


5. A week after the first treatment, spray the plants with a solution of Epin-Extra preparations (2 ml per 10 l of water). This is an excellent anti-stress drug that will help the needles recover.


If you have very alkaline water (gives a lot of scale), then add 1 tsp to the bucket of water before diluting Epin. vinegar (the drug Epin is destroyed in an alkaline environment). Spray in cloudy weather or in the morning and evening 2 times a month until the plant is fully restored.


6. Instead of Epin, you can use another adaptogen - the drug HB-101, this solution is sprayed and watered under the root once a week. Use 2 times a month until the tree is fully restored.


7. As soon as the plant has revived and new shoots have appeared, in May you can feed it using special fertilizers for conifers. In this case, it is better to give preference to liquid and granular preparations with a long duration of action (POKON, AVA).


8. Water and spray conifers regularly, especially young specimens, and do not make mistakes in the future before preparing them for wintering.

Before the onset of winter, thuja and some other conifers change the color of the needles. This is a common seasonal occurrence and has nothing to do with plant disease.

When does the needles change?

In autumn, many conifers change the color of the crown, needles fall off. Its color changes when the air temperature drops in September - November. This is quite normal and should not be scary. Cooling is a signal for most conifers (juniper, microbiota, thuja, pine, etc.). Their needles begin to turn yellow, acquire a bronze or other shade. For example, in autumn, beautiful green needles are popular microbiota cross-pair noticeably turns brown. The crown of some types of thuja appears rusty-brown for another reason. This is an abundance of half-open cones with ripe seeds.

Some conifers hardly change the color of the needles in autumn. Have pseudo-women Menzies the general appearance of the tree at this time remains almost the same. Its needles live long, up to eight years. Our green Christmas trees also "shed" almost imperceptibly, their old needles only slightly differ in color. They fall off no earlier than 5 years later. The loss of part of the needles is sometimes jokingly called "autumn needles". This phenomenon is explained by the fact that needles live in different plants for an average of three to eight years. Some cultures have longer. When their "service life" ends, they, to a greater or lesser extent, change their previous color and fall off. Any changes in the decoration of conifers are alarming. They're evergreen! In most cases, you shouldn't worry. New needles will surely appear, and the tree will not cease to be evergreen.

Autumn needles

The needles of pines and fir more fall off skeletal branches and from the trunk, especially in the very depth of the crown. In many species of thuja, the entire crown turns yellow. More intense in the part closer to the central trunk. There is less light. Individual needles and whole branches fall off. In many junipers, spruces and pseudo-shrubs, some of the needles die off by winter. Before that, it becomes gray-gray, so the general appearance of the tree does not deteriorate. And the change of outfit happens gradually. The pea cypress often loses whole branches, which before this turn very red.

When growing conifers, sometimes in autumn it seems that the plant is "drying out" from the inside. This is due to the fact that much more old needles turn yellow and fall off in the depths of the crown. This condition is clearly visible in pines, cypress and thujas.

Conifers in an autumn park in France also turn yellow

What to do?

The crown of conifers must be regularly freed from crumbling needles. This is easily done by wearing a heavy glove. I remove the needles with a strong stream of water from the hose. Otherwise, it will interfere with the appearance of young needles and accumulate in the places where the branches are forks. A lot of needles always accumulate under the tree. If it does not interfere with other plants, then the needles can not be swept. It gradually decays and becomes a natural mulch. Of course, with any suspicion related to the presence of diseases or pests, the fallen needles must be removed.

Other reasons

Unfortunately, a change in the color of the needles may indicate some problems. For example, brown shute damages needles. Such a tree does not regain its typical color in spring. It needs to be treated. To do this, use kartocid or Bordeaux liquid. The treatment is carried out several times (until complete recovery) with an interval of two weeks. There is another reason for the possible fall off of yellowed needles. It's aphid. Spraying with karbofos in early spring helps. In the middle of summer, they are treated with actellik or rogor-S. For any suspicion of a fungal infection of conifers, use foundationol, HOM, oxykhom, ordan, kartotsid or commander. All these are quite strong modern drugs. For prevention, you can treat the trees with epin and zircon until the end of June.

Massive yellowing and falling of the needles sometimes indicates that the tree was planted incorrectly (for example, with a large deepening). Or in the wrong place (for example, groundwater comes very close to the soil surface). To these factors it is worth adding the unsuitable acidity of the soil, and for some crops - an excessively sunny and ventilated place. But all these painful conditions have nothing to do with natural discoloration and partial change of needles.

The role of regular watering is also great. Prolonged drought is the worst enemy of most conifers that grow in our areas. The needles often turn yellow due to starvation of plants. Especially due to the lack of magnesium. Therefore, it is necessary to apply those balanced complex fertilizers that are intended specifically for coniferous crops.

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