Began to turn yellow onions what to do. When to clean the bow. Fungal diseases and control methods

Onion is a widely popular plant that is grown by all gardeners. Even if the site is quite small or it’s just a flowerbed, onion lovers will still find a place for a couple of onion rows. And in this case it is especially important to get a quality crop. After all, quite often the onion in the garden begins to turn yellow and does not grow, so you need to know what to do if this happens even before the onset of the harvest season.

The reasons why the onion turns yellow

  • onion moth;
  • nematode;
  • onion fly;
  • covertly;
  • thrips.

For the prevention of onion damage by these insects, it is recommended to plant it each year in a new place. It is possible to return to the first bed only after four years.

In order to avoid the onion fly, onions should be planted as early as possible and close to the carrot. Onions beds with onions to feed a mixture of pepper and tobacco dust. Feeding is carried out at the time when the dandelion is blooming. To combat the already living flies of the bulbs (but not feathers and flower beds), pour salt solution at the rate of 200 g per bucket of water.

The onion moth and the hidden trunkfish are disposed of by completely removing the remains of the onion shoots from the site and deeply digging up the area just before the frost.

To prevent the onions from turning yellow due to the nematode and thrips damage, before planting it, immerse it in hot water for 10 minutes.

Calendula and marigolds are planted between the rows of onions with their fragrance.

Prevention of onion diseases leading to yellowing


For the prevention of fungal diseases that cause yellowing of onions, before planting it for 12 hours spread out under direct sunlight to warm up. Planted onions must be watered with a solution using copper oxychloride (1 tbsp) and household soap (1 tbsp) in a bucket of water.

So that the planting of onions is not damaged by the rot of the Donets onion beds can not be done in the valley.

Correction of errors in the care of the bow, which caused its yellowing


In order to prevent yellowing of onions as a result of errors in care, it must be ensured that it is watered correctly. For irrigation, use only warmed settled water, water strictly under the root, not allowing the soil to be washed out on the bulb. Mineral fertilizers can be added to the water for irrigation.

One month before harvesting, watering should be stopped.

What if the onion turns yellow through the weather?

With a lack of precipitation in arid summer, onion beds should be watered more often. And in the period of prolonged rain better cover planting in the greenhouse.

How to prevent yellowing of the pen from a nitrogen deficiency?


In cases where both watering is correct and there are no diseases with pests, and the onion still turns yellow, the reason may be a drawback. In this case, the onions must be fed with nitrogen-containing fertilizer (special complexes or humus).

Why onions turn yellow and how to deal with it - video

Diseases of onion and garlic

1. The main thing for onions is a healthy planting material, pre-sowing treatment and well-fertilized, loose soils, and do not forget about regular weeding from weeds.

2. Mealy dew, onion fly, onion covertly

· The feather turns yellow, a grayish-purple hue appears on the leaves. Handle 1% solution of the "Bordeaux mixture".

· There is a fairly effective folk method: 2 times, at intervals of a week, shed at the root of the bulbs with a solution — 1 cup of ordinary table salt per 10 liters of water with the addition of potassium permanganate to pink.

· If the onion begins to turn yellow, vegetable growers take different measures. For example, watering the beds with water with kerosene, two tablespoons of kerosene per bucket of water. It is advisable to water under the root of onion plants. You can spray the planting cool saline. Sharp, as often happens in Siberia, the onset of heat provokes the activity of onion flies and onion hoverfly. The larvae are embedded in onions. They can even rot, the leaves turn yellow and dry out. It is necessary to carry out mulching of onion crops with peat. Introduce a substance along the rows that has a strong smell that repels flies: tobacco or tobacco dust in its pure form or in half with lime or ash (1-2 kg per 10 sq. M). You can fill the aisle with a mixture of naphthalene and sand (1 part naphthalene to 20 parts of sand).

To grow a full-fledged onion, it is necessary to form a good leaf apparatus. After all, from the bottom of each sheet is formed scales. The more leaves, the more scales, the larger the bulb. Therefore, pick off the green leaves on crops intended for the turnip should not be.

Water onions - as needed, no more than 4-6 times a month. Better less often, but plentifully, in order to wet the soil layer to a depth of 15-20 cm. Before watering and after it, when the top layer dries out a little, loosening is necessary. If the plant grows poorly when planted with bulbs, it can be fed with mullein or bird droppings diluted 10-12 times with water. 30-40 g of ammonium nitrate are added to a bucket of such a solution. At the end of June, you can make a second dressing. To do this, take 10 g of superphosphate and potassium salt for 10 liters of water.

If the soil in the areas are fertile, a lot of humus, then organic and nitrogenous mineral fertilizers do not need to be applied. It is possible to achieve leaf growth, but to delay the formation of bulbs. It is necessary to periodically inspect the planting and completely remove the plants damaged by the larvae of the flies. They are burned or buried to a depth of at least 50 cm.

  • Yellow tips onions and garlic feathers

In a favorable summer, this is the result of a lack of watering in hot weather. Today (2000) it disappears. Hence, two reasons: either a lack of nutrients, or an onion fly commanding the parade. The first reason can be eliminated by feeding the plants with a complete complex fertilizer. I, for example, use "crystalline". Worse, of course, if the onion fly harms the onion and garlic. It is necessary to check. If the plant has turned yellow, not sparing, pull it. At worst, dig the ground near the bulb. If you see a little worm, then the onion fly prevails. In this case, there are two options for its disposal. We take a glass of table salt in a bucket of water, dilute it, make grooves between the rows of onions, garlic, and pour water over the ground well. If this does not help, then we take two tablespoons of ammonia on a bucket of water and work the land around the plants using the same technology.

If you are not satisfied with one or the other, then use urea.

Perinospora, or downy mildew of onion and garlic . The causative agent of the disease - the fungus   Peronospora destructor (Berk) Casp.The disease affects all types of onions: batun, shallot, shnitt, leek and garlic. The disease manifests itself in the spring with the regrowth of perennial onions and testicles of onions. In the middle of summer (the end of June - the beginning of July) perinospora appears on a turnip and onion sets.
From year to year, the disease is transmitted with bulbs, in which the infection remains in the form of a mycelium, without causing them to rot. Infected bulbs planted in the field, give sick plants. With the beginning of their growth, the mycelium, which is located in the tissues, begins to grow; it diffuses through the intercellular membranes and penetrates the leaf tissues. Inhibition of plants becomes noticeable in 3-4 weeks after the planting of the bulbs. The leaves develop poorly, turn yellow, with a strong lesion they dry up and nadlamyvayutsya. Seeds are underdeveloped, remain puny. In dry weather, pale green spots appear on the leaves and arrows. In wet weather, a grayish-purple plaque is formed on the spots, consisting of branched conidiophores and conidia. Conidia ovoid, gray-purple, 35-60х22-35 microns in size. With their help, the disease spreads and repeated infections occur. In this case, peronosporosis appears as oval, yellowish spots of various sizes with a noticeable bloom. Diseased leaves and arrows dry prematurely. Seeds often do not have time to form.
   From the leaves, the disease is transferred to healthy bulbs, which then slowly develop and usually reach smaller sizes. The average weight of the turnip bulb is reduced by 1.5-2 times. The scales of infected bulbs are fleshy, they become wrinkled, with an uneven surface. The mycelium of the pathogen is concentrated mainly in the region of the Donets and remains to winter there. In addition, the fungus, when adverse conditions occur, can form oospores, which are also stored on plant debris during the winter and can serve as a source of primary infection.
   The degree of peronosporosis in the field depends on weather conditions. The disease develops strongly in wet weather. In dry hot weather, its distribution is stopped, the conidia of the fungus die in the sun without causing infection. Optimal conditions for the development of the fungus and infection of plants are formed at a temperature of ten to fifteen degrees and relative humidity above eighty percent.
   The main sources of primary infection of peronosporosis are planting material and perennial species of onions, in the roots of which the fungus is overwintering. In some areas, the resumption of the disease onion can occur due to overwintering oospores. In recent years there have been reports in the literature that the infection can be transmitted with seeds (V. I. Glushchenko).

Control measures. The main event in the fight against onion and garlic pernosorosis is to obtain a healthy planting material. To do this, crops of Chernushka and garlic must be placed on the fields with the greatest isolation from perennial onions, onions, turnips and seed plants. Positive results are provided by autumn warming of small bulbs before drying is completed at 40 ° C for 8 hours and large ones - 24 hours and spring warming no later than 1.5 months before planting. A prerequisite for obtaining healthy material is a systematic inspection and cleaning of crops from diseased plants, starting from the 3-4th week after planting.
   When the disease is first detected, it is recommended that fungicides be sprayed with a 0.4% suspension of arceride, either a 1% Bordeaux liquid, or a 0.4% suspension of polycarbacin (a bow on a turnip), or a 0.4% suspension of a polychoma (testes), or a 0.2% suspension of Ridomil, or a 0.4% suspension of Tubaride, or a 0.4% suspension of copper oxide, or a 0.4% suspension of Zineb (except onions on a feather) .
   In conditions where the development of peronosporosis almost annually reaches the level of epiphytotics, it is necessary to cultivate varieties that are relatively resistant to the disease. These include the Golden, Pogarsky, Tsitausky, Strigunovsky, Sivirsky, Stuttgarter, Myachkovsky 300.

Onion and garlic rust . The causative agents are Puccinia porri Wint. and Puccinia allii Rud. It affects all kinds of onions and garlic. The main damage to plants is caused by the uredospore stage, so rust on the leaves of onions and garlic appears as light yellow, slightly convex pads. Later, when the teleteporus develops, the pads turn black. With the strong development of rust leaves prematurely dry. Rust fungi overwinter in the form of teletiospores on diseased plant debris, as well as on perennial onion species.

Bacterial Bulb Rot . Pathogens - bacteria   Erwinia carotovora (Jones) Holland., Erwinia aroideae (Town.)Holland. The disease manifests itself during the growing season of onion sets and on the testes. The leaves turn yellow, there are areas of dead weeping tissue. On testes arrows turn yellow, fade. On bulbs, signs of bacterial rot can be found only in a longitudinal section. Under the healthy outer scales are found dirty-brown softened and lousy scales. After 2-3 months, these bulbs completely rot and produce an unpleasant odor.
The development of bacteriosis, according to literary information, is promoted by sunburns, a sharp change in weather conditions during the ripening period - from humid, moderate to dry and hot, storage of onions in warm and humid conditions.

Control measures

Onion Stemfilios. The causative agent of the disease is the mushroom Stemphylium allii Oud. It affects onions, garlic, leeks. Especially dangerous for testes. On the leaves, as well as on the shooters of the testes, mainly on plants affected by downy powdery mildew, there are clearly visible brownish-purple spots, covered with abundant pinkish-purple at first, later brown bloom of the fungus, consisting of colorless conidiophores and oblong, bag-shaped, 20- 50 X 12-25 microns, brown-violet, smoky-brown spores. Leaves and arrows in places of defeat are breaking into pieces. Seeds do not have time to form or are puny.
   Stemfiliosis completes the death of leaves, initiated by peronosporosis. It develops particularly strongly in dry and warm weather.
   The main source of infection are overwintering affected plant debris and bulbs, on which the fungus can persist throughout the entire storage period.

Control measures the same as with peronosporosis

Golovnya bow. The causative agent of the disease is the fungus Urocys-tis cepulae Frost. The disease manifests itself only on the first year old onion in the form of dark, slightly swollen stripes, translucent through the peel on the cotyledon leaf, as soon as it comes to the surface of the soil. Over time, the skin will crack and a mass of black spores of the fungus will be found. Most of the affected seedlings die at the age of 3-4 weeks. For those plants that still form bulbs, dark stripes also form at the base of their scales. When cracking the skin, there is a mass of black spores that fall into the soil and can remain in it for 5-6 years. The onion shoots are most susceptible to head smut from the second day after seed germination and ending with the formation of the first leaf, i.e. within 12-15 days after germination.
   Onion smut is common mainly in individual kitchen gardens, where Chernushka is often sown, and in farms specializing in the cultivation of this crop.
   The most favorable temperature for spore germination and plant infection is 13-20 °. At 26 ° and higher shoots of the head are not affected.
   The main source of infection is soil. With seeds, the disease is not transmitted.

Control measures with smut come down to observing the correct crop rotation with a 4-5 year break for planting onions Chernushki on one plot. Onion sets and turnip on contaminated soils can be grown. Early terms of sowing or sowing with germinated seeds are recommended, as well as growing onion seedlings on uninjured soil and planting it in the ground.

Neck rot of onion and garlic . The causative agent of the disease is the fungus Botrytis allii Munn. The most common and harmful disease is onions and garlic. Primary infection of plants occurs in the field before harvesting when lodging leaves, which is a favorable substrate for the development of the fungus. The causative agent of cervical rot penetrates the tissues through a tightly closed neck and mechanical damage. Infection in the initial period is not detected, therefore, the affected bulbs, along with healthy ones, end up in storage. The first symptoms of the disease become noticeable already at the beginning of storage (September-October). Cervical rot develops as a result of infection in the field and rot in the lateral parts or the bottom as a result of re-infection from a number of diseased bulbs. The bulb in places of defeat softens, the fabric becomes watery, yellow-pink in color, with an unpleasant smell. With the defeat of all the scales onion mummified. On the surface of the affected scales, a dense gray mold is formed, which is a mass of conidiophores of the fungus and colorless, oval, single-celled conidia of 7-16x4-9 microns in size. Later, sclerotia of the fungus appears among the molds, often merging into a solid black crust.
   The intensity of cervical rot depends on many environmental factors. The rapid development of the disease in the repository contribute to increased humidity and temperature. The optimal temperature for the fungus is 20 °, but it can develop at 3-4 °. The growth and development of the pathogen stops only at 0 °.
The main source of infection in the culture of onion seedlings are seed bulbs. When they land in the field, the causative agent of the disease can affect shooters and seed heads. The arrows nadlamyvayutsya, the seeds are underdeveloped, have poor germination. The infection that has formed on the testes is transferred to the turnip where it falls on the lower dying leaves and then on the bulb, causing it to become infected. When an onion is planted from seeds, the plant becomes infected mainly from turnip plantings and seed plants. The role of soil as a source of infection is less significant. It can preserve mainly sclerotia of the fungus. There is a possibility of spreading the disease with seeds, as the causative agent of cervical rot is capable of infecting the seed heads.
   Onion development is greatly influenced by onion growing conditions. With the same weather, onions are more strongly affected on loamy soils; weaker - on sandy. At higher soil moisture conditions are favorable for the fungus. In addition, the vegetation period of the plants is extended, the ripening of the bulbs slows down, and the leaves dry out more slowly.
   Increased doses of nitrogen, violation of the timing of harvesting and post-harvest drying conditions contribute to enhanced lesion of onions. Harvesting unripe bulbs and laying it for storage without sufficient drying dramatically increases the susceptibility of the bulbs to neck rot.

Control measures. To reduce onion losses from cervical rot, it is first necessary to obtain healthy planting material. To do this, black onion must be sown in separate areas, remote from the fields occupied by onion turnips and seed plants. Harvesting of bulbs should be carried out during their full maturation, followed by drying of the bulbs in sunny weather in an open place in a single layer, in a wet place - first under a canopy, and then for 7-10 days indoors when the air is heated to 26 - 35 °. When cutting onions, leave a neck with a length of 3-6 cm. Onions are recommended to be stored under optimal conditions: food - at a temperature of 1-3 ° and relative humidity of 75-80%, uterine bulbs- at 2-5 ° and 70-80%, sets - at 18-20 ° and 60-70%.
When dressing onions and garlic against neck rot, it is allowed to use the following fungicides: benlat (basezol) - 0.7% suspension (immersion of the bulb suspension of the preparation for 20 minutes before putting it into storage with subsequent drying), or tigam-3-4 kg / t (seed treatment, seed dressing), or TMTD-4-5 kg ​​/ t for seed dressing and 2-3% suspension for seed treatment.
   Varieties of onions resistant to cervical rot, currently not identified. Weaker affected varieties Mstersky local, Danilevsky 301, Bessonovsky local. Warsaw, Pogarsky, Tsitaus and varieties with dark-colored scales. Early ripening varieties of onions are less susceptible to cervical rot.

Gray onion mold . The causative agent of the disease is the fungus Botrytis cinerea Pers. Affects onion testicles in the phase of loading seeds and bulbs during storage. Unlike cervical rot, the disease does not affect the cervix, but develops on the lateral and bottom parts of the bulb. Infection with gray mold can occur both in the field and in storage in the same way as infection with cervical rot. The affected tissues are weeping, with an unpleasant odor, yellowish in color, covered with a gray fluffy fungus coating, consisting of conidiophores and unicellular, colorless, oval conidia of 9-17х6-10 microns in size. Later in the raid numerous sclerotia form.
   The source of infection is affected bulbs and sclerotia hibernating in the soil.

Control measures with mushroom and bacterial rot of onion and garlic include the same techniques as with neck rot.

Green onion and garlic mold, or penicillus . The causative agents of the disease are mushrooms of the genus Penicillium (Phenicillium glaucum Link.). One of the most common diseases of garlic during storage. Onion is less common. On the bulbs, first on the bottom or outer scales, brown watery spots appear. In garlic, the individual teeth become lethargic, on the succulent tissue visible dented light yellow spots. Subsequently, the affected tissues soften and become covered first with a light, whitish, and then green moldy bloom. The spores of the fungus are elliptical or spherical, small, with a diameter of 3–3.5 microns. When you break the scales, they pour out in huge quantities. The disease also extends to the inner teeth. They shrink, darken and crumble. Bulbs feel empty.
Mass manifestation of green mold reaches 2-3 months after the onion and garlic are put for storage. High temperatures and humidity in the storage, under-freezing, mechanical damage contribute to the strong development of the disease.
   To reduce the loss of onions and garlic from the green mold, first of all, it is necessary to thoroughly dry them before storing them. Humidity should be in the range of 60-80% at a positive temperature and not higher than 90% at a temperature of 1-3 °.

Control measures with mushroom and bacterial rot of onion and garlic include the same techniques as with neck rot.

Black mold of onion and garlic, or aspergillosis . The causative agent of the disease is the fungus Aspergillus niger Tiegh. The disease develops if onions and garlic are stored at a high temperature (18-25 °). The greatest damage is inflicted on the onion sets and onion sampling. Black mold strikes upper succulent scales. Diseased bulbs soften, a black, dusty mass of small, up to 2-5 microns in diameter, spherical spores are formed between the scales. More susceptible to the disease nevzreshviy, poorly dried onions. During storage, the bulbs may be re-infected by direct contact, as well as by airborne spores.

Control measures with mushroom and bacterial rot of onion and garlic include the same techniques as with neck rot.

White rot of onion and garlic . The causative agent of the disease is the fungus Sclerotium cepivorum Berk. It affects plants of any age during the growing season, as well as during storage. When infected in a field in young plants, the leaves turn yellow, starting from the top, and die. Plants quickly wither and die. On the roots and scales of the bulbs, a white fluffy mycelium is formed, the chives become watery and rot. Small, with poppy seeds, sclerotia appear on the affected tissue. The fungus develops well at a temperature of 10-20 °. Overwinters in the form of sclerotia in soil and in storage on infected bulbs.

Control measures with mushroom and bacterial rot of onion and garlic include the same techniques as with neck rot.

Fusarium, or onion and garlic donut rot . Pathogens-fungi of the genus Rizagsht. The first signs of the disease appear even in the field, during the ripening of onions and garlic. In affected plants, leaves die off quickly, starting at the top. Most roots rot. On the bulbs in the region of the Donets, a bloom of pink, yellow mycelia is always noticeable, usually white in color with clearly visible pads consisting of elongated, sickle-shaped, with 3-5 partitions, colorless spores of 30-50x3-4 microns in size. Accumulations of mycelium and spores are clearly visible between the scales. Affected tissue dries out, and by the end of storage the bulbs mummify. The disease is promoted by pest damage. Unlike white rot, Fusarium rot of Donets develops more often in years when onion and garlic ripen at high soil temperatures. During storage at an elevated temperature, the disease also progresses rapidly.
   Sources of infection are contaminated soil and planting material.

Control measures with mushroom and bacterial rot of onion and garlic include the same techniques as with neck rot.

Garlic bacteriosis . The causative agents of the disease are the bacteria Erwinia carotovora (Jones) Holland., Pseudomonas xanthochlora (Schuster) Stapp. On the cloves of garlic during storage there are in-depth ulcers or strips coming from the bottom up. Fabrics become pearl yellow. Fungi from the genus Penicillium usually settle in the lesions. Affected bulbs sprout in most cases, germinate and develop normally.
   The development of the disease is most often facilitated by harvesting and storing the unripened, poorly dried garlic and non-compliance with the storage regimes.
   Well-formed and mature teeth are resistant to bacteriosis.
   The above diseases of onion and garlic are rarely manifested in their pure form. As a rule, they develop in the form of mixed rots. Most common is the joint damage of onions to cervical rot and black mold, bacteriosis and fusarium, cervical rot and gray mold, bacteriosis and cervical rot, cervical rot and fusarium, bacteriosis and green mold, etc.
   Often, three or even four diseases can be found on one bulb. We observed the simultaneous development of cervical rot, Fusarium and green mold; fusarium, bacteriosis and green mold; neck rot, bacteriosis and fusarium; black and green mold, fusarium and bacteriosis.

Control measures with mushroom and bacterial rot of onion and garlic include the same techniques as with neck rot.

Yellow dwarfism . The causative agent of the disease is the Onion yellow dwarf virus. The disease is more pronounced on the testes and is detected soon after the landing of the queen cells. Plants have a depressed appearance: the leaves turn yellow, often become folded or shirred, fall to the ground due to the loss of turgor, and become flat. Peduncles also turn yellow, curl and give the plant a dwarf appearance. Flower heads and seeds are smaller than in healthy plants. The onions are more susceptible to the damage by dwarfism, which has been propagating for a long time vegetatively.
   In sevok, the disease is carried by many kinds of aphids, feeding on onions and other related plants, and mechanically. The transmission of pathogens by onion seeds has not been established. The earlier in the season the dog becomes infected, the more severe the disease will appear next year.
   The prevalence of dwarfism depends on the presence of aphid vectors and external conditions. With slow growth of plants, the disease may not appear.
   Yellow dwarfism affects shallots, garlic, perennial onions, which are often the reservists of the virus.

Control measures. The main measures to combat viral diseases of onions and garlic are to obtain healthy planting material by isolating (up to 1.5 km) the black onion crops from other crops, perennial onions and garlic, protection from carriers of viruses, the selection of uterine bulbs from healthy plants, removal of diseased onion plants.

Mosaic of onion and garlic . The causative agent is Allium virus I Smith. Leaves and inflorescences are affected. On leaves, the disease manifests itself in the form of small, more or less elongated specks or wide light green or cream stripes. Sometimes the leaves become corrugated, stunted and lagging behind. The arrows bend, they are visible longitudinal mosaic stripes. The inflorescences of the affected plant are friable, the flowers are sterile or give very few seeds. Instead of stamens and pistils, long leaflets are often developed, and bulb flowers instead of flowers. Seed germination from diseased plants is reduced. The bulbs from infected plants often have an elongated shape and sprout before they reach maturity. The disease is tolerated by a four-legged garlic mite. The infection persists in onion sets, onion womb and in perennial onions, where the disease manifests itself in the form of weak mosaic of leaves.

Control measures. The main measures to combat viral diseases of onions and garlic are to obtain healthy planting material by isolating (up to 1.5 km) the black onion crops from other crops, perennial onions and garlic, protection from carriers of viruses, the selection of uterine bulbs from healthy plants, removal of diseased onion plants

Onionfly  Delia (Hylemia) antigua meig . A widespread dangerous pest (especially in wet years). More harm on sandy and loamy soils, less - on peat. More damage to onions in the backyards with the permanent cultivation of culture, less - garlic.
   Departure of flies is noted in the middle of late May and coincides with the flowering of cherry and dandelion. Eggs are laid in groups of 5-12 pieces between the leaves of onions or in the cracks of the soil near the plants. After 5-9 days, depending on the conditions of the year, the larvae hatch. They penetrate the plants through the base of the leaves or bottom. The larvae, hatching from one clutch, are kept in a group, gnawing large cavities in the bulb. Due to damage the bulbs rot, leaves turn yellow, usually in the apical part, fade. Damaged bulbs produce an unpleasant odor, and when they are opened, white, legless, and headless larvae are found inside, up to 10 mm long. The posterior end of the body is blunt, in the middle of it there are two round brown plates with breathing holes. The development of larvae occurs 16-20 days, after which they go into the soil, to pupation. Falconis reddish-brown, shiny, about 7 mm long.
   Flies are yellowish-gray, with a distinct brownish longitudinal line on the abdomen. The body is narrow, long. Legs, antennae, tentacles black. The flies that fly out after wintering require additional nectar nutrition for flowering plants. 5-10 days after departure, they start laying eggs. Eggs are white, 1.1 mm long, elongated-oval, with a narrow oblong groove in the middle.
   Pupae overwinter in pods in the soil at a depth of 6-20 cm. The fly develops in Belarus in two generations. The harmfulness of the 1st generation larvae is manifested in June, the second - at the end of July - August.

Control measures. Spatial isolation of onion crops from last year's crops. The location (or alternation) of the rows of onions and carrots, onion crops next to the crops of carrots. Phytoncides emitted by carrot leaves scare away an onion fly. Early sowing of onions contributes to resistance to damage by the onion fly, since by the time of the departure of the flies the plants will get stronger, harden and to a lesser extent be damaged by the pest. It is believed that mulching with peat between the rows contributes to scaring onion flies, since the pest avoids peaty soils. The use of drugs with a strong smell like naphthalene in a mixture with sand in the ratio of 1: 1, tobacco dust in its pure form or in half with lime or ash (1-2 kg per 10 m2). Processing is carried out in the initial period of laying eggs. Subsequent - in 7-8 days. It is necessary to periodically inspect crops, remove and destroy damaged bulbs. At the end of the growing season to remove the tops, the remaining damaged bulbs, followed by digging the soil. Good results are obtained by treatment with an infusion or a decoction of a phytoncide plant - tobacco. Use leaves, stalks. For an infusion take 400 g of crushed raw materials or dust, insist two days in 10 liters of water. Infusion filter. To the resulting solution add 40 g of soap. For broth, take 400 g of dried raw materials for 10 liters of water, insist day, then boil for 2 hours. After cooling, add another 10 liters of water and add 40 g of soap to every 10 liters of solution.

Onionhotshot  (Eurnerus strigatus Fall).Moisture-loving insect .. Widespread. Damages all types of onions, garlic, gladioli, tulips, daffodils and other plants. The larvae that have penetrated into the bulbs destroy them and cause rotting.
   Adult fly about 9 mm long, greenish-bronze in color, with short blond hairs. Antennae black-brown. Legs are black, the legs at the base, the tops of the thighs and the main segments of the paws are yellow. Eggs are white, elongated without longitudinal groove, 0.8 mm long. Larvae are grayish-yellow, strongly wrinkled, flattened from the ventral side, up to 11 mm long. At the rear end of the body is a reddish-brown appendix with two processes on the sides. Lozhokokony about 8. mm long, yellowish-brown color. The posterior end of the body is the same as that of the larva.
The larvae overwinter in the bulbs that have not been harvested in the field, in the soil and in the storehouses. In the spring, they pupate, and by the beginning of June (coinciding with the flowering of wild rose), flies fly out. Females additionally feed on flowering nekaronosah and after 7-9 days begin to lay eggs in small groups of 6-10. After 5-10 days the larvae hatch. The development of larvae lasts about one month, after which they leave for pupation in the upper soil layer. The second generation of the pest appears in early August. With severe phytophagous damage, only the skin of the bulb remains, filled with a black rotting mass. Developed in two generations.

Control measures. The same as against onion flies, as well as the use of healthy planting material.

Onionmole  (Acrolepia assectella Zeil.). Distributed everywhere. Harm more in hot, dry years. Damages leeks, bulb, garlic. The caterpillars penetrate into the tubular leaves of the onion, eat out the parenchyma in the form of irregular bands,. leaving the epidermis intact. Damaged leaves turn yellow and dry out, starting from the apical part. On the bow, the caterpillars often penetrate into the neck and even inside the bulb, causing the complete death of the plant. On leek and garlic, caterpillars mine leaves, feed on buds, eat flower buds, gnaw stalks, which leads to a decrease in seed yield. The onion moth is a small butterfly, with a wingspan of 8-10 mm, dark brown in color. The front wings are in small white flecks. In the middle of the front wings there is a white spot almost triangular in shape. Hind wings are lead-gray with long fringe. The eggs are milky-white, bean-shaped. The caterpillar is yellow-green, with a dark head, spindle-shaped, with 8 pairs of legs. The body length of 10-11 mm is covered with brown warts. Pupae of dark brown color, about 7 mm long, are in a grayish spider cocoon. Butterflies winter in various shelters, on plant remains. Departure of the moth is noted in mid-May and coincides phenologically with the flowering period of the bird cherry tree. The female lives about two weeks and during this period has time to lay up to 100 or more eggs. Their development lasts 5-8 days. Under the conditions of Belarus, it develops in two generations.

Control measures. It is necessary to observe crop rotation and proper agricultural practices. Return the bow to its original place no earlier than 3-6 years. Modern loosening and dressing with mineral fertilizers. Destruction of plant residues. Spraying of seed plantings with insecticides during the summer season of butterflies and the appearance of caterpillars.

Onion behind-the-barrel (Ceuthorrhynchus suturalis Schul.). Beetles and larvae damage onion, bat onion, chives, less often garlic. Beetles in tubular leaves eat out small cavities, as a result of which rounded white spots are formed on them. The larvae eat away the pulp inside the leaf, in longitudinal stripes, without touching the outer skin. In damaged plants, leaves turn yellow from the top and dry out.
   On the testicles of the onion, beetles gnaw the pedicels, causing the death of the flowers.
   The beetle is 2-2.7 mm long, with a rosette bent under the chest. The body is black, covered with whitish scales and therefore appears gray.
   Along the suture of the elytra, scales form a yellowish-white strip. The legs are red-brown. The larva is up to 6.5 mm long, legless, yellowish, with a brown head, the body is C-shaped, curved. In adulthood, they leave their feeding places, make holes at the base of the leaves, and cocoon in the upper soil layer.
   Beetles hibernate under plant debris and soil clumps on grained areas along roadsides, ditches, and ravine slopes. In early spring, when the average daily temperature rises to 8-9 ° (III decade of April-1 decade of May), beetles emerge from wintering, fly over on the crops of onions, damaging the leaves in the form of small holes, and after mating start laying eggs, in groups of 1 - 5 pieces, on the inner surface of onion plants. After 6-10 days, the larvae hatch from the eggs, which feed on the pulp of the leaves, without affecting the epidermis. Leaves form light stripes, which are very clearly visible against the background of dark green. The development of the larva lasts more than a crescent. In Belarus, the pest develops in a single generation.

Control measures. Collection and destruction of post-harvest residues, autumn plowing, destroying wintering places for beetles. Additional loosening of inter-row spacing in the period of mass pupation of the larvae, followed by irrigation and fertilizing with mineral fertilizers. Removal of damaged leaves with the destruction of larvae. Insecticide treatment. There is a fairly effective folk method — remove and destroy damaged feathers and shed at the root of the bulbs with a solution — 1 cup of ordinary table salt per 10 liters of water with the addition of potassium permanganate to pink.

Root (onion) mite (Rhyzoglyphus echinopus). Distributed everywhere. It damages onions, mainly during storage, but can also be harmful in the field where it is brought with planting material. Penetrating inside the bulb, usually near the bottom, mites feed on fleshy scales, causing them to rot. Heavily damaged bulbs dry out during storage. In the field, mites prefer plants damaged by other pests. They harm garlic, hyacinths, daffodils and other crops.
   The body of the root mite is oval, whitish or dull-vitreous, about 1 mm long, the legs and mouthparts are brown. Hygrophilous. Relative air humidity of 60% and below is unfavorable for tick development. At the optimum temperature (25-26 °), one generation of the pest develops within 9 days. One female lays an average of about 800 eggs. The larvae resemble adult individuals, but, unlike them, they have three pairs of legs. Adult mites can feed on plant debris. Ticks can often be found in garden soil, hotbeds, where the pest is brought mainly with infected planting material.

Control measures. 1.5-2 months prior to planting, dry heating of onion sets and uterus is carried out at a temperature of 40-45 ° for 16 hours or at 35-37 ° for 5-7 days. In storages where a pest is detected, gas disinfection is carried out using sulfur dioxide gas obtained by burning Gamma drafts (0.5–1 g per 1 m ^) or lump sulfur (50 g / m2). Exposure - 48 hours. A prerequisite for disinfecting rooms is their tightness and compliance with safety regulations.

Onion nematode, or stem nematode of onion and garlic (Ditglenchus allii Belj.) . Damages onions, especially garlic. It is found on parsley, parsnip, tomatoes, radishes, cucumbers, saute and other plants. Larvae and adult nematodes feed on plant sap, causing their curvature and growth retardation. In the nematode-damaged bulbs, the internal tissues are friable, grainy, grayish. Succulent scales loosely adjoin each other, as a result of which the bulb feels soft to the touch, the bottom cracks. In garlic plants, there is a lag in growth, thickening of the false lance, yellowing and dying of leaves, yellowing of cloves at the base. The nematode localization mecia is an onion, then a feather and an arrow.
Onion nematode - small (1-1.5 mm) whitish worm. Overwinters in bulbs, soil, seeds. In dry scales of onion and dried garlic retains viability for 2-4 years. Propagated by laying eggs in plant tissue. When the infected plants die off, the nematodes go to the soil and look for a new host. Humidity close to 100% is a prerequisite for relocation.
   The nematode is stored and accumulated in the remnants of the bulbs, feathers, arrows. In the soil the nematode is usually absent. The pest spreads with seeds.
   The shoots of blacks infected with a nematode are ugly and thickened. Vegetative plants are infected in several ways: in rainy years, the nematode penetrates through the stomata of leaves, in dry weather - through the bulb. In places where the nematode is introduced, a white spot is formed. In more mature bulbs penetrates the growth point of future roots.
   With a weak infection of the bulbs for some time stored normally, apparently no different from healthy, but over time the tissue is destroyed inside. There are empty shells.

Control measures. Thermal disinfection of seeds and seed in heated water at a temperature of 45-50 ° for 10-15 minutes. Sow only healthy seed. Compliance with crop rotation with the return of onions, garlic to its original place no earlier than 3-4 years. Before storing the onion for storage, it is necessary to disinfect the lukoraries, dry and warm the bulbs at a temperature of 35-37 ° for 5-7 days. Carry out fumigation with sulfur dioxide (50 g of sulfur per 1 m2 of room, exposure 24 hours). In storage at positive temperatures (maintain air humidity not higher than 70%.

Tobacco onion thrips (Trips tabaci Lind.). A very common species in the republic. In recent years, onions, tobacco, cabbage, watermelon, cucumbers in greenhouses have been damaged. It feeds on more than 100 species of plants. Adults are light yellow or brown with narrow wings, fringed at the edges with a fringe, about 1 mm long. Eggs are small, kidney-shaped, white. The larvae outwardly resemble adult thrips, but are smaller in size, without wings, whitish at first, then greenish. Adult thrips overwinter on plant debris, in the upper soil layer, but the bulk of it concentrates under the bulb scales. In the early spring they feed on weeds, then transfer to cultivated ones. When the onion is damaged, silvery-white spots appear on the leaves. In places where thrips are fed with the naked eye, phytophagal excrement is seen as black dots. Damaged leaves turn yellow, die off, starting from the apical part of the plant. When the inflorescences of the testes are damaged, the latter turn yellow, then they dry up, no seeds are formed or they are puny, with low germination.
   Females lay about 100 eggs, placing them one by one under the skin in the leaf tissue. After one week, the larvae hatch from them. After feeding, they go to the soil and turn into adult insects there. Some of the pest population enters the repository with the bulbs, where under favorable conditions it continues to develop.

Control measures. The same as against onion nematode and onion root tick.

Virtually no such garden, where the owners would not grow onions. Ogorodnikov is often interested in the question: what factors contribute to the onion feather turning yellow? Why does the onion turn yellow in the garden? After all, land owners are making maximum efforts to take care of them: they regularly water onions, feed them, get rid of weeds, and carry out other activities.

The reasons why the onion turns yellow

What could be the causes of yellowing onions, and how to fight them? Consider the main factors affecting the state of the onion in the garden.
  Causes of yellowing include:

Insufficient nitrogen content in the soil

Most often the onion yellowing is caused by a lack of nitrogen in the soil. When it is hot in the summer, onions lack nutrients, especially nitrogen, because the onions' roots get nitrogen only when dissolved. Excessive watering or frequent rains also adversely affect onion roots. This is due to the fact that water can wash out all the useful nutrients from the soil, which, especially, the onions need during June-July.

Pest Influence

What is dangerous onion moth

This is not a very bright, in appearance, butterfly, has a dark brown color and light gray wings. The length of her body reaches only 8 mm. May appear in late spring. It inflicts damage to the bow, as a rule, at night. Then the females lay the larvae, which after 7 days will turn into caterpillars. These green pests are of small size, but at the same time, they cause great damage.

How to deal with onion moth

Effectively the effect of the drug "Iskra": you need to take 1 tablet and dilute in 10 liters of water. A high result can also be achieved by applying the preparations “Dachnik”, “Metaphos”.
  It should start sowing onions as soon as possible. This is necessary so that before the onset of this problem it is already possible to harvest.

Landings mole will not be threatened if the onion is planted next to the carrot. The soil must be loosened. The soil is treated with decoctions of tobacco, tincture of garlic and ash.

Well "shows itself" mix for top dressing. Take: wood ash, pepper, tobacco dust. The procedure is carried out in the period when dandelions are blooming.



  Onion moth harms leeks and onions in hot, dry weather.

Sometimes, one of the reasons for the yellowing of the onion feather is tobacco (onion) thrips. This pest is smaller than aphids along the length of its body. Despite its small size, the insect causes serious damage not only to the onion, but also to other cultivated plants.

What to do in this case?  Begin with preventive measures. So that everything was good on the beds, they will be protected by an uncomplicated procedure: seed should be dipped in hot water, the temperature of which is from 44 to 46 degrees, for 10 minutes. After that, it should be placed in cool water. Onion thrips from such a procedure dies.

When a small pest began to show its activity on the beds of onions and the feather turns yellow, the special chemical preparation Konfidor will come to the rescue. You can apply the "Spark".



  Onion (tobacco) thrips harm onion planting on beds in open ground and onion sets during storage

Onion fly and how to destroy it

This insect is difficult to distinguish from the usual flies, which we know, and often see in the summer. The size of this pest is about 8 mm, gray (with shades of yellow and ashen). Besides the fact that the fly annoys all the inhabitants of the land with the fact that it is present among cultivated plants, it also seriously harms. In the garden - it's just a disaster. Females can lay their eggs in the garden or directly on vegetables. The larvae, as soon as they hatch, immediately begin to eat the vegetable, while the onion feathers turn yellow and dry.

The pest shows activity from the middle of spring until the end of summer. For all this period, there is a change of 2-3 generations of this insect. The onion fly lives in different parts of the world, and carries a threat also to such crops as: lettuce (all kinds), garlic, tulips and other types of flowers. It is important to carry out activities aimed at combating this pest.

Ways to fight the onion fly:
  Effective is the use of chemicals and popular methods. If you choose option 1, then there is a risk that the quality of the onion harvest will not be high, since a certain part of the poisons remain in the turnip.

Using popular methods:

  • Sprouts of onion need to be sprayed with tinctures: mint, wild rosemary, fir, tomato, pine needles, valerian.
  • When planting you need to alternate carrots and onions in the same row in the garden. It is the carrot that with its smell will scare away not only the onion, but also the carrot fly.
  • Onion beds should be watered with a solution of kitchen salt. On 1 bucket you need to take 300 grams of salt. Watering should be done only after the green onion sprouts have reached a height of 5 cm. After 2 or 3 weeks, watering should be repeated, but this time by 10 liters. water takes 450 grams of salt.
  • Regular planting is necessary to sprinkle with wood ash. It will perform the functions of fertilizer and protection from pests.
  • It is necessary to observe crop rotation.

In autumn it is necessary to dig a garden as deep as possible.

  • Before planting onions, it is soaked in diluted manganese.
  • Effective chemical agents are: “Flyer”, “Aktara” or “Karate Zeon”.

Preparations based on chemical compounds are often used when large areas are sown. For processing of garden sites they are not used.

WE RECOMMEND!

Does your neighbor have a better harvest? Increased yields in just 2-3 days. Even in an abnormally rainy summer, you will have an excellent harvest after applying the original plant growth biostimulator. The composition of bio-fertilizer includes only natural ingredients.



In appearance, the onion fly resembles a cabbage or housefly, only much smaller.

Stem Nematode

Also one of the reasons for yellowing onions may be the stem nematode. This is a small worm. Because of its penetration, the bottom of the bulb cracks and begins to rot, and the onion feathers turn yellow. This pest, despite its size - 1.5 mm, can cause irreparable damage. The main problem is that the nematode can live in various parts of the garden, and it can live in the soil for many years.

This is a small beetle. The body is gray, has the shape of an oval, approximately 2.5 mm in length. In winter, these pests sleep. After they wake up in spring, they immediately harm the bow. As a result: white spots appear on it. For them, the delicacy is new shoots.

After weevils lay eggs, and after 2.5 weeks their offspring are already born. As soon as babies - weevils are born, they immediately pounce on the vegetable. As a result, onion leaves turn yellow and dry.

Onions, most often, sick with rust. This disease is manifested by the appearance of yellow spots on the feathers, from which the leaves dry up and die. Methods of dealing with this disease are:



Bulb rot caused by bacteria

This disease can only be seen when the onions are cut. Among the scales that have a healthy appearance, dark layers of softened substance are visible. Infection of the bulb is not without the help of insects. It makes no sense to keep this bow, because it will quickly deteriorate. When such bulbs are planted, the culture, visually, looks unattractive. The onion feather will turn yellow, and the arrows will quickly wither.

To prevent this type of disease, you need:

  • carefully sort the whole onion, which must be planted, separating the infected bulbs;
  • before planting, the soil is treated with metronidazole (or other special preparations).

Fusarium (Rot of Donets)

All existing varieties of onion and its types can be affected by this fungal disease. Spores of these fungi live in the soil and can harm the bulb. Green onion feathers turn yellow and then dry out and die.
Ways to combat this type of disease:

  • competent choice of the place where the onions will grow;
  • you should not plant the seeds in the lowest part of the garden, as with intensive rains the water will flood the crop;
  • it is necessary to change the places of disembarkation of onion beds;
  • onion seeds, which are planned to be planted, must be carefully processed and decontaminated;
  • it is worth planting seedlings strictly at the right time, and for this the folk calendar of the gardener is suitable;
  • when the harvest is gathered, it is necessary to create good conditions for storage with the necessary temperature and humidity.

In the event that these activities are carried out correctly, the rot of Donets will not appear.



  Rot affects the onions and in the soil, and especially during storage. The leaves of young plants begin to turn yellow and die.

Alternaria

This disease manifests itself as white spots on feathers. The disease progresses in this way: the spots increase in size, and become lilac (with brown) tint. This is already manifested, therefore, spores of the fungus. It happens that the spots - white bezel. The disease from the pen goes on the bulb, which is covered with brown or black mold.

WE RECOMMEND!

An effective remedy for alcohol addiction. Based on only natural ingredients. According to the study, 25% of tested volunteers noted a significant reduction in alcohol cravings and improved body condition, and 75% of the subjects stopped drinking completely!

The cause of the disease is too much nitrogen in the soil, or a high moisture content in the soil.

How to fight:

  • follow crop rotation;
  • after the onion harvest has been gathered, all husks should be removed from the beds.

In rainy weather, treatment is carried out for the purpose of prophylaxis using such preparations:
  - Shirlan 500 SC.
  - “Consento”;
  - "Acrobat MC",
  - "Cabrio Duo";
  - "Poliram DF."



  Alternaria - onion disease photo. The disease affects onion scales, feathers break, the plant rots.

Failure to care for onions leads to yellowing of onions.

Plants often suffer from the fact that they are not properly cared for by the owners of the plots, they do not carefully remove all the “traces” of vegetation after harvesting, and also did not take measures to disinfect the storage room.

Watering is not by the rules, or not in full

You need to be informed about what means and how much you need to water onions in order to avoid its yellowing. When he takes root, he must be watered with water, which has a temperature of +18 to +25 degrees. The first half of the day for watering is the perfect time. When mulch is used, it is necessary to water less frequently.

Lack of nutrition

An important question is this: what to use as a top dressing so that the onion feather does not turn yellow. Fertilizers are combined with irrigation. Means must be mixed, taking 50 g of ammonium nitrate, 20 g of potassium salt, 20 g of superphosphate, and dissolved in 10 liters of water.

The very first watering with this solution must be performed when the onion shoots rise above the ground by 3 cm. The procedure is repeated after 7 days. Before harvesting (5-6 days), feeding is stopped.

Video: Why does the onion turn yellow?

The above tips may not be effective, because nature can make adjustments to this process. The season may be too dry, or very wet when it rains. This will lead to the fact that the onion turns yellow and disappears, that the gardener would not try to take. In order to harvest a healthy crop from onion beds, it is advisable to build a greenhouse on the site.

Yellowing a feather on an onion bed in July-August is a natural process, indicating that the onion is ready for harvesting. But quite a common problem and professional gardeners, and newcomers to the dacha - the premature yellowing of the onion feather. If you pull such an onion out of the ground, you can find clear signs of its rotting. And today about why still growing onions turn yellow and rot, and how to deal with this scourge.

Before taking any action, it is necessary to find out the probable cause of the problem. It is likely that the onions are dying because of the pest that settled in it.

The most common insects that can harm a bulb are:
  onion fly;
  onion covert;
  thrips;
  stem nematode;
  onion moth.

If the onions at least once turned out to be damaged by one of the listed pests, then the minimum time period after which this crop can be planted again on this crop is four years. In general, onions on the same bed to grow for several years in a row, should not. This precaution significantly reduces the likelihood of infestation of planting material by pests remaining in the soil.

Onion fly: how to deal with a pest?

The following recommendations will help to cope with the pest invasion:
  1. Plant onions as soon as possible. In this case, by the time the pests appear, the young plants will get strong enough, and insects will no longer be able to cause irreparable damage to them.
  2. Always plant a bed with a bow next to the carrot beds.
  3. As soon as the dandelion begins to bloom, be sure to spray the onion with a mixture of tobacco dust, wood ash and pepper.

Onion Keeper

Getting rid of the onion reticule and the onion moth will help thorough cleaning of the beds, after the onions have been pulled out. All remnants of the pen must be fully assembled and destroyed.

In the autumn, just before the arrival of frost, the bed from under the bow must be deeply dug.

Stem Nematode and Thrips

If the onion feather began to turn yellow, because it was damaged by the stem nematode and thrips, then in the future, the following procedure will help to avoid this:
  Hold onions in hot water for about 10 minutes before planting. Water temperature should not exceed +45.

Calendula and marigolds planted between the rows will help scare away the pest.

Diseases of onions causing yellowing of the feather and rotting of the bulb

There are many diseases that can cause the death of the bulb, but the main reason is fungal diseases. To secure the next harvest, it is necessary to carry out the preplant treatment of the set. To do this, leave it under the sun for 12 hours, or soak in warm water (+30) for the same period.

As a preventive measure for fungal diseases, an already planted onion can be poured over with copper oxychloride solution. Norm: Add a spoonful of the drug and the same volume of liquid soap to a bucket of water.

When choosing a place for future beds try to choose areas located on a hill. Most often, onions planted in the valley, suffer from bottom rot.

Improper care is another reason.

Pen tips may begin to turn yellow due to improper planting care. There are certain rules that allow you to grow perfectly healthy onions:
1. Watering plants can only be warm water. Cold tap water is one of the causes of onion death.
  2. Watering should be carried out at the root. If you water the beds on top, then be sure to use a rain nozzle, so as not to bare the bulbs.
  3. Watering is recommended to combine with mineral dressings.
  4. Approximately one month before harvesting, watering must be completely stopped.

Weather

In hot weather, the bed should be watered as the top layer dries. The soil in the garden should always be moistened to a depth of one centimeter.

The construction of a greenhouse over it will help to save the bed from the torrential rains, and, accordingly, the decay of the crop.

Lack of nitrogen in the soil

In certain situations, the onions begin to dry even with proper care and the absence of pests. What could be the cause in this case? Experienced gardeners recommend checking the soil for nitrogen content.

In case of shortage of onions, it is necessary to feed them with nitrogenous fertilizers. As a feed you can use chicken manure or mullein. If this is not possible, then it is recommended to purchase special complex mixtures.

Yellowing onions than watering and feeding

Yellowing of leaves in onions: causes and signs of their manifestation

With normal growth and development, onion stems begin to wither in August and September, which indicates the readiness of the bulbs to harvest.

If the feathers turn yellow in spring or early summer, this is a sign of improper development of culture. The reasons for this phenomenon may be several:

  • lack of moisture;
  • insufficient amount of nutrients;
  • plant damage by insect pests;
  • adverse weather conditions;
  • fungal and bacterial diseases.

Lack of moisture

Onions are very picky about the frequency and quality of watering. Without a sufficient amount of moisture, especially during the dry season, the edges of the leaves of the plants turn yellow and die, and the roots dry up, which leads to a loss of harvest.

In the phases of emergence of shoots and leaves (in the first half of summer), the onions should be watered at least 2 times a week. At the next stages of growth and development - 4-5 times a month. It is best to produce watering before noon, and only at the root.

Use only soft water, the temperature of which is 18-25 degrees Celsius. Consumption rate per square meter m - 6-8 liters. After watering, when the top layer of soil dries, it is necessary to loosen.

Not enough nutrients

A common cause of yellowing onion feathers is a lack of nitrogen in the soil. When it is deficient, the leaves grow very slowly, in appearance they are short and thick, at first light green in color, and then turn yellow.

In this case, it is necessary to make nitrogen-containing fertilizers for plants. But, how to feed onions, so as not to yellow? For this perfect solution consisting of infused manure and urea. 10 liters of water - 1 tbsp. organics (mullein or bird droppings) and 1 tbsp. l urea.

Plant damage by harmful insects

Among garden crops, onions are most susceptible to insect infestation. Damage to pests causes yellowing of the feather and can cause loss of the entire crop.

Onion fly is especially active during the development of green onions - in April and May. It lays eggs on the stem, under the leaves or in the loose soil of the beds near the plants. The larvae that appeared after 8-10 - white small worms climb into the bulb and feed on scales. The affected plants are stunted, their leaves wither, and after a while they become yellowish gray and dry out.

Adverse weather conditions

Climatic conditions, for example, too dry or rainy summer can also become one of the reasons for instant yellowing of leaves. Reliable protection of the crop from death will serve as a greenhouse or above-ground greenhouse, where the onion feathers will always be green and juicy.

Fungal and biological diseases

The most common diseases, a symptom of which is the yellowness of the pen, are rust and rot of Donets. On leaves of plants affected by rust, light yellow, slightly bulging spots are formed, after which the feathers dry and die. When the Donets rot, the plants turn yellow completely and then wither.

Onions turn yellow than water - folk remedies for diseases and pests

To get a bountiful harvest of onions in the first place should be observed crop rotation, timing of planting and planting bulbs. To avoid contamination of vegetables with pathogens, you should use only healthy planting material, which is well warmed and dried before planting. The soil in the beds, just before sowing, should be disinfected with copper sulphate solution: 10 liters of water 1 tbsp. l granules.

Yellowed onions: how to water from an onion fly

An excellent preventive measure for onion flies is the placement of onion and carrot beds in the neighborhood, as well as dusting the landings with a mixture of ash and tobacco (taken in equal proportions). When detecting worms, vegetables should be poured with a solution consisting of tobacco dust, laundry soap and ground red pepper. For its preparation 200 gr. Tobacco is poured 2-3 liters of hot water, insist three days. Then add water to 10 liters, add one spoon of soap and pepper.

How to pour onions from worms

Plants affected by the stem nematode must be fed with ammonium sulfate solution in early June. Dilute 2 tbsp. l drug in a bucket of water and pour the vegetables, at the rate of 4-5 liters per square meter. m. square. As a preventive measure, the seeds, before sowing in the ground, need 15-20 minutes. put in a solution of salt (5 tablespoons. per 5 liters of water).

Chemical methods and preparations for feeding onions

At home, especially if the onions are grown on the feather, it is not recommended to process it with any pesticides. If necessary, it is better to use biological fungicides that do not harm the human body.

Trichodermine application

So that in the middle of the season the question does not arise: onion sets turn yellow, than to water - the bulbs should be treated with Trichodermin fungicide before planting. For soaking for one kilogram of sev, prepare a solution of 30 g of suspension and 3 l of water. During the growing season, planting is additionally sprayed with Fitosporin-M or Gamair biological product (3-4 times).

Onion treatment with metronidazole

One of the most effective remedies for yellowing the pen is the antibacterial drug metronidazole, which can be bought at every pharmacy.

He quickly and efficiently destroy pests and thereby save the crop. For processing plants 4 tablets are dissolved in 10 liters of water. The resulting solution is watered beds at the rate of 4-6 liters per 1 sq. Km. m

Total

Get a rich harvest of strong bulbs and healthy greenery under the power of every gardener who knows how to water onions so that the feather does not turn yellow. Use proven tools and folk recipes to protect the culture from diseases and pests, follow the timely sowing and be able to achieve the perfect result.