I bought daffodils in a pot what to do. How to grow daffodils in a pot at home

Daffodils are a genus of monocotyledonous perennials from the Amaryllis family. Flowers are among the first to bloom with the onset of spring. In the natural environment they grow in the south of Europe, Asia and the Mediterranean. Of the 60 species, about 25 are cultivated, including hybrid forms. Belonging to bulbous plants confuses the rules of care. Inexperienced growers adhere to standard agrotechnical measures, focusing on tulips. This is an erroneous position. Only competent care throughout the growing season and after flowering will guarantee healthy growth for the next year.

Daffodils bloom in May-June. They reach their maximum development in the third year of life. In the shade, primroses will not bloom so colorfully, but they will last longer. It should be noted that it is unacceptable to touch the leaves until the plant has completely faded and they dry out on their own. For another 1.5–2 months after flowering, the nutrients accumulated from the sun enter the rhizome. Therefore, other bulbs are planted nearby. So that the drooping flowers do not greatly spoil the overall picture in the garden, daffodils are planted in compositions with late-flowering crops.

Daffodils are quite unassuming to care for, but belong to the category of plants with a short growing season. They bloom beautifully in early spring, and begin to turn yellow in the middle of summer. In most cases, these are winter-hardy flowers that can be left in the ground during cold weather. You need to take care of the following algorithm:

pruning;
top dressing;
seating of bulbs.

The bulb at this stage is saturated with everything necessary for full development for the next season. Mineral-complex fertilizers are introduced containing nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. If the foliage is not completely dead, do not touch it for the next 2-3 months after flowering. The first 10-12 days the bushes are watered, then completely stopped. Immediately after the buds die off, top dressing is made from potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

All nutrients from the leaves go down to the bulbs. Once they dry naturally, they are cut and burned.

The root perimeter is loosened and mulched with an organic layer: peat, fallen leaves or sawdust. The procedure is carried out until the soil has cooled down, and the shelter is removed in the spring, when the threat of a night cold snap passes.

Cultures in containers

Such specimens are more demanding to care for than plants in the open field. After the end of the flowering period, the soil is fed with bone meal. They wait 1-2 months for the plant to wither completely, stop watering. Then the bulbs overwinter safely in a pot without digging out. After the flowers die off, the container is placed on its side.

In the fall, they return it to its original position and moisturize abundantly. This is a necessary measure for flowering in spring. The bulbs are able to live in this mode for up to 3 years without transplanting into open ground. In the second year of growth, the flowers become smaller. It is advisable to transplant in the summer, when the foliage has completely died out.

When are daffodils transplanted?

For successful rooting of the bulbs before frost, they are transplanted in September-October. The soil is pre-fed and dug up, holes are prepared with a drainage layer. Planting depth depends on the size of the head, usually 25–30 cm. They deepen into loose soil 4–5 cm more, into clay soil closer to the surface. The plantings are placed at a distance of 15–20 cm. After that they are well moistened and covered with mulch.

Flowers grow quietly in one place, without needing a transplant, up to 5-6 years. Dig when many bulbs are formed in one nest. A similar measure is resorted to when there is a deterioration in flowering. The right period is when the foliage will completely wither. Do not hesitate with this, so as not to spoil the planting material. Terry and tubular varieties of daffodils and peat bogs are transplanted annually. Then there is a greater chance of retaining the original maternal qualities.

It is permissible to remove the heads for transplanting if the leaves are not completely wilted. This happens in the middle of summer. Take extreme care not to damage the bulbs.

Then they are cleaned and dried. Sorted by quality: no chips and rot, no lesions. The bad ones are immediately burned. The selected material is washed, disinfected with a manganese solution, and dried. Store until autumn in a cool and ventilated room at a temperature of + 17 ° C. Planted in August-September, asymmetrically. So before the onset of frost, the plantings will have time to take root in a new place.

Caring for lilies after flowering - can the shoots be cut?

Color division

You can divide and plant daffodils in the third year after disembarkation, in the fall. Then, next year, a new flowering plant will be obtained from the daughter formations. After the leaves turn yellow and dry completely, the bulbs are dug up and separated. The sick and injured are discarded. The entire aerial part is removed. The heads are dried and stored until disembarking in a cool, not lower than 20 ° C.

Before planting, the soil is dug to a great depth and all stony inclusions and debris are removed. If necessary, add humus. Pre-onions are soaked in a fungicide solution for 2-3 hours.

A layer of fine sand is poured onto the bottom of the pit and expanded clay drainage is laid. This will protect the roots from putrefactive processes. They are transplanted immediately after digging, as fresh air harms the roots. The planting site is watered and covered with a mulch cover.

Shelter for the winter

Daffodils are frost-resistant crops, but this does not exclude freezing of the roots in harsh and snowless winters. Early thaws and short-term drops in temperature also have a detrimental effect on them. In early spring, flowers begin to come to life together with nature, but a sharp temperature jump can instantly destroy them. Large-flowered varieties of daffodils and planted in late autumn are especially sensitive to the cold. They simply do not have time to adapt to the new environment.

To avoid this, the root circle is covered with a layer of mulch with a thickness of at least 20-25 cm. From above, the bushes are covered with a special covering material, but a little later. A stable low temperature and light freezing of the ground are expected. In the spring, all protective devices are removed.

Storing the bulbs

If you want to move the daffodils for the winter, the bulbs are dug into the room in July, when the bush loses its decorative effect and disintegrates. A similar period begins immediately after flowering and lasts 2-3 months. Depends on climatic conditions. You should not hesitate with digging, as there is a danger of being hit by a narcissus fly. This pest loves to eat bulbs.

Children are carefully separated so as not to injure the overgrown roots. Soft and deformed specimens are removed. The good ones are washed under running water, treated with potassium permanganate and dried. For the winter season, daffodil bulbs are placed in a wooden ventilated box in thin rows and placed in a cool room. Cannot be packed in polyethylene. The emitted carbon dioxide, which will not erode, will prevent daffodils from breathing freely and they will die. The optimal microclimate during storage: until the end of August, the temperature is + 20 ° С, then - not lower than + 10 ° С before planting. Humidity is about 65–70%.

Do not place tulip and hyacinth bulbs in the neighborhood. They are also perennials, but with different storage requirements.

Bulbs are regularly inspected in order to remove rotting specimens in time. The source of putrefactive processes is different. If brown spots are observed, it is a fungus. When an unpleasant odor emanates, bacterial growth. If you dig the onions in the heat, there is a great danger of developing fusarium during storage. Rotting begins at the bottom and progressively rises up. At first it is imperceptible, but in a short time the head softens. If it is planted in the ground, the plant will not fully develop, the leaves will quickly turn yellow and fall off. Control measures - careful rejection of the seed, cleaning from old scales and sprinkling with chalk.

Timely watering, removing dead buds, weeding and feeding are mandatory measures for caring for daffodils after flowering. The leaves are cut off completely, a stump of 1.5–2 cm is left. Then natural wilting is expected. For the first year of life, you can not transplant the plant if the soil is well fed. But for the winter, the flowers must be covered.

Since the elegance and irresistibility of daffodils was recognized, they began to be grown in almost every garden, front garden, on a city flower bed. They look good cut and blend with other plants. The daffodil is not only a garden flower. It can also be grown in a pot at home.

Planting bulbs.

If the bulbs are planted in heavy soil, then the planting depth should be twelve centimeters, if in light, then seventeen. Large bulbs are buried twenty-five cm, and the distance between them should be seventy. To get more children, the depth and distance between plantings are reduced by ten to twelve cm.

Daffodil bulbs are planted in holes, on the bottom of which sand is poured. Then peat is put on the soil, and with the onset of frost, the site is covered with straw. When the snow melts, the protective layer is removed and the peat is left behind.

Daffodil care.

The plant does not require special care. Enough properly water, loosen and fertilize.

Watering and loosening.

Lack of moisture is bad for flowering. When the first shoots appear, you need to water it twice a week. After flowering, watering is not stopped so that the bulb can get the necessary nutrients.
Periodically, the flower garden is weeded and loosened, the faded flowers are removed in time.

Fertilizer

Throughout the entire growth period, daffodils are fed 4 times:

mineral fertilizers are used for sprouts;
at the stage of the appearance of the peduncle, a solution is prepared, which consists of potassium sulfate, superphosphate and urea;
when the bud has formed, phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen are used;
during the flowering period, phosphorus and potassium are used (the dosage is small).

Fertilizers are always applied after weeding. In drought, it is better to use solutions, and in rainy weather - powders.

Reproduction of daffodils.

There are two ways of reproduction - seed and vegetative.
Seed propagation the longest way, the plants will bloom only after 6 - 7 years. The dried seeds are planted in boxes with soil and looked after as if they were seedlings. In the first years, the sprouts do not touch, they allow the onion to grow stronger and form roots. Then they are transplanted to a permanent place.

Vegetative method includes two options:

separation of children from mother. They are seated in separate holes. They are looked after in the same way as for adult bulbs.
reproduction using scales. To do this, take the largest onions and dry them for a week. Then the top is cut off and divided into eight parts. Each wedge should have two scales. They are folded in a bag and kept closed for 3-4 months, during which time small bulbs should form, which are planted in boxes with peat and sand.

Why daffodils don't bloom.

The plant may not bloom if not properly cared for.
There may be several options here:

the bulbs are too closely spaced;
acidic soil;
little light;
stagnant water
lack of moisture.

Diseases and pests.

Daffodils are susceptible to the following diseases - fusarium, nematode and striping. Processing the planting material before planting will get rid of the fungus. If the plant is infected with a virus, then it should be immediately destroyed. And immerse healthy bulbs in hot water for several hours.

A hoverfly, a tick, a fly harm daffodils, an insecticide will help against them.

Diseases most often occur due to a violation of agricultural technology - poor lighting, too much nitrogen, inappropriate humidity and temperature.

What to do after flowering.

When the flowering is over, the leaves should not be cut off, they should dry out.
After the leaves have dried, the bulbs can not be dug out, but the ground parts can be removed, the flower garden can be weeded, loosened and watered until autumn.
You can store bulbs intended for planting:

in the cellar (they are planted in boxes);
in the refrigerator (stored in a paper bag, checking for rot).

Growing daffodils at home.

Daffodils grow well at home in pots and delight with flowering from December to March. In order for them to take root well, it is important to choose bulbs that are large and without damage (holes, scratches, areas of decay). After the planting material is purchased, it must be planted in pots as early as possible. Until then, it should be stored in a cool, dry place.

In order for the plant to take root, you need to adhere to some rules.

Planting in pots

The pot for planting is not very high, medium-sized in width. You can plant from 2 to 4 bulbs in one pot (the amount depends on the size). A clay or ceramic container is best suited. If the pot is chosen incorrectly, the plant will not bloom. There should be holes at the bottom of the pot to drain the water. They are necessary so that the water does not stagnate and the bulbs do not rot.

Land for planting can be purchased at any specialty store. This can be daffodil soil, universal, or you can take soil from the garden. Whatever the soil, you need to add sawdust, sand or clay to it. The earth must be crumbly. If there are lumps in it, then much less oxygen will enter the soil and this will lead to infection with a fungus.

After the pot and soil are selected, they begin planting. A drainage 3 centimeters thick is placed at the bottom of the pot and covered with earth. The bulbs are lightly pressed into the soil, the upper part of them should remain on the surface. Then the pot is placed in a dark and cool place for 3 months. After this period, the plant is transferred to the room.

In order for the daffodils to bloom by December, planting must be done in September. If flowering is planned by spring, then in November or December.

Daffodils should not be placed next to other plants on the windowsill, as they contain toxic substances, and they can harm home flowers.

Caring for flowers in the house

It is important to water the plant properly. The first watering is carried out immediately after planting the bulbs. While the rooting process is in progress, it should be moderate - once every 14 days. Then watered as the earth dries into the pan. The water should be at room temperature. After the leaves turn yellow, watering must be stopped.

Top dressing of domestic daffodils is carried out 2 times: the first, when sprouts have appeared; the second, when the buds were set. Nitrogen and potassium are used for feeding.

After the plant has faded, the dried flowers are cut and the leaves are left. As soon as they completely wither, they are pruned and the pot is removed to a cool place. The bulbs can also be removed from the pot and wrapped in paper.

At home, the daffodil is most commonly affected by a fungus. This is due to improper watering. The plant should not be flooded. Before planting, all planting material must be treated with a fungicide.

Among the pests are tick, nematode and fly. To prevent the plant from becoming infected, you need to remove its wilted parts in time, loosen the soil and inject an insecticide into it.

The use of daffodils in garden design.

These flowers can be used in a variety of flower gardens. They look best in the garden in large arrays of the same type. They can be combined with goose onions, sciles, crested beetles, hyacinths, tulips, crocuses,

All garden plants and shrubs require proper and quality care. The most popular flowers are daffodils. They decorate the backyard with bright sunny inflorescences in the summer. When the end of flowering comes, the daffodils have faded, many do not know what to do next. Even in the fall, it is important to prepare them for the winter period. Preparing and handling the bulbs is important so that they do not lose their varietal properties.

After the daffodils have faded, it is necessary to take care of them.

It consists of the following stages:

Do not cut foliage after flowering for 2 months. Sunlight enters the bulbs through the leaves.
After 2-3 months, when the foliage is completely dry, carefully cut it off and remove it from the main bush.
With the onset of autumn, it is necessary to fertilize with fertilizers that dissolve in water.
Young plants are covered with a layer of humus or leaf turf on top, for the duration of winter.

Young flower bulbs should not be dug out after the growing season. It is better to dig up every 3 years so that the mother bush gives young babies. Adult bulbs of 3 years of age are dug out after the growing season in late July, early August.

After the foliage dries, the bulbs do not have a dormant period, they continue to breathe, grow and receive the necessary nutrients. The dug out planting material of daffodils also breathes, so you should not delay with a transplant for more than 2 months.

Important! Do not remove yellowed and withered foliage to make it easier to find the planting site for the bulbs when transplanting.

The need for the procedure every year

It is not recommended to replant flowers annually. The transplant should be carried out no earlier than 3-5 years, when the bulbs will be cramped. Babies can form from the mother bulb, depending on the variety and growing conditions, from 2 to 5 pieces per growing season.

For additional planting material, it is allowed to dig out the bulbs after 3 years. With an annual transplant, they can weaken, stop blooming for 2 years. To achieve strong and abundantly flowering plants, it is necessary to replant no earlier than after 6 years. The main signs for transplanting will be small inflorescences, growth retardation and the appearance of disease and pests on flowers.

An annual transplant is allowed if the bulbs are sick. After digging, they must be carefully examined, removed sick children and treated with a special solution.

Digging Precautions

The main precautions must be taken when digging the planting material to avoid damaging the bulbs with a sharp tool. And also after digging up the material.

Precautions include:

It is better to dig up the bulbs with a sharp spatula or garden fork, deepening them into the ground so as not to damage them, along with an earthen clod.
After digging, cut off the foliage with a sharp knife, and the roots should not be cut until they are completely dry.
Shake the material off the ground without separating it from each other and store it.
Do not leave them in an open, sunny place so that they do not burn out from the sun.
After they dry out a little, separate from each other and remove excess soil with your hands.
Separate the daughter bulbs from the mother ones after they dry out. In order not to spoil them.

If, separating the daughter children from the mother's material, it is damaged, the place of the break can be sprinkled with wood ash. To avoid rotting or deterioration during storage. It is better to store wounded children treated with ash separately from whole heads.

Important! If the flowers have been growing for 6-7 years in one place, without transplanting, so as not to cut the bulbs, it is better to use a large-sized shovel. Plantings can grow and take up a large area.

Bulbs storage rules

After being removed from the soil, the bulbs are left for 5-10 minutes in the fresh air to dry out. It is better to choose a slightly shaded place to avoid sunburn. If the weather is rainy, they are taken indoors, with good air ventilation for ventilation.

After that, they must be placed underground or in a cellar with an optimal temperature of 15-18 degrees, and a humidity of 60 percent. Before being lowered into the cellar, the bulbs are sorted by type and placed in wooden boxes or special pallets, you can transfer the layers with paper. Do not store in closed bags, otherwise they will rot.

There should be vents in the underground so that fresh air can freely enter it. If it is damp, you can place a fan to circulate the air. Inspect the material for rot or disease on a daily basis. Remove rotten heads immediately so that the infection does not spread to healthy onions. It is not allowed to store them for a long time, the shelf life should be about a month.

Do you need processing?

Strong and healthy daffodil bulbs do not require additional processing. For confidence and to avoid rot, the planting material can be soaked for 10 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Peeled heads of daffodils, before storage, can be poisoned from worms and other pests with a solution of the drug Karbofos. To do this, prepare a solution for 2 liters of pure water, add 2 ml. drug. Place the material in the prepared solution and soak for half an hour. Then dry them thoroughly and store them indoors before planting.

Timing of planting in the ground

The most optimal time for planting daffodils in the ground is autumn, late August, early September. During this period, the bulbs will have time to take root and not start growing. In each region, it is necessary to observe the time when frost occurs. You can independently calculate the most favorable time 3 weeks before the first frost.

If the planting took place in late September, early October, you can cover the seedlings from above for the winter with a layer of dry foliage, tops of no more than 15 cm. To be sure that the crops are safe.

It is better to choose a new place, where there is a rested land. It is better not to plant in the same place where the daffodils grew. For 3 years, the soil is depleted, it may contain harmful microorganisms, the flowers will not grow well.

A hole is dug in accordance with the size of the bulb, about 20 cm. If fast flowering is required, it is enough to deepen it by 5-10 cm. A layer of sand, humus soil and 1 tablespoon of mineral fertilizer are placed on the bottom. Having formed a drainage layer, the bulb is placed in a hole and sprinkled on top with a layer of soil, slightly compacting it. When planting, it is important to adhere to a distance between the material of at least 10-15 cm. If different varieties of flowers are planted, you can deepen pegs with the inscriptions of the variety name into the ground next to the heads.

Important! The daffodil bulb is poisonous, all work and contact with them should be done with rubber gloves.

Now there is a huge selection of varietal daffodils that will delight their owner with colorful paints during flowering in early spring. Having given them proper care and observing all the planting rules, the plant will be strong and healthy, not subject to diseases and pests.

Gave a room daffodil! It fades ... what to do with it? and got the best answer

Answer from? M @ rin @? [Guru]
Narcissus is not a houseplant. It was forcibly forced by distillation to bloom at this time at home.
After flowering, cut off the peduncle and leave in the pot until the leaves completely wither. Water a little while doing this.
When the leaves are dry, remove from the pot, dry and store in the refrigerator until AUTUMN planting in the garden.
The second time in a row (like after 2 weeks!) They do not plant - the bulb is completely depleted by forcing. To again get a full-fledged hyacinth bulb suitable for flowering, it is necessary to plant it on the street according to all the rules. And only after a year you will be able to grow at home.

Answer from 2 answers[guru]

Hey! Here is a selection of topics with answers to your question: Gave a room daffodil! It fades ... what to do with it?

Answer from Helena[newbie]
Hi. 2 months unemployed. Almost all the time I hang out at the dacha, I come to register in the employment fund 2 times a month.

Answer from Anna Brin[guru]
When it blooms and begins to dry, dig out, cut off the greens and put them in a dry place for 4 weeks. Then in the refrigerator for 2 weeks at a temperature of about 0 degrees. And you can plant it again, it should grow again and bloom.

Answer from Julia[newbie]
Narcissus. CARE.
Care for daffodils begins in early spring, when overwintered plants need to be revised and the weak and sick ones must be removed. During the period of growth and flowering, the land under the daffodils must be regularly loosened, weeds cut out, and watered regularly.
The soil for planting should be prepared in advance and the main fertilizer should be applied at the same time. The best fertilizer for daffodils is decomposed humus or compost soil (8-10 kg per 1 sq. M.). It is a good idea to add a handful of bone meal under each bulb, which will supply phosphorus for intensive formation and nutrition of the roots. When re-digging, phosphorus fertilizers are also applied in the form of bone meal or superphosphate (60 g per 1 sq. M.).
When growing daffodils, you need to consider the nutritional requirements of these flowers. With proper care, daffodils are fed several times throughout the season. In order for the fertilizers to be better absorbed, the first feeding is done when the snow has not melted yet. At this time, a complete fertilizer is applied with an increased nitrogen content and equal parts of phosphorus and potassium (NPK) in a 2: 1: 1 ratio. The amount of fertilizer per 1 sq. M. - 100g. Before flowering, a second feeding is performed in the same amount, but with an increased phosphorus content, a ratio (NPK) of 1: 2: 1. The third feeding falls on the flowering period, it is applied in smaller quantities (30 g per 1 sq. M.), The ratio of phosphorus and potassium (PK) is 1: 1.
The bouquet of daffodils looks very impressive, which is why these flowers are often grown for sale for the spring holidays. The experience of growing daffodils for cutting shows that cutting does not affect the development of bulbs, and if we want to get high-quality planting material for forcing, then cutting flowers is even useful. It is especially important in this case to prevent the seed pods from ripening.
Daffodil bulbs develop slowly. Full development occurs only in the third year, at the same time the most intense flowering occurs, therefore it is not recommended to dig out daffodils earlier than three years after planting. In one place, daffodils grow well for 3-5 years and do not need frequent transplants.
If necessary, you can dig up the daffodil bulbs when the leaves turn yellow and dry completely. The dug out bulbs are laid out in one row for drying in the shade or in a room with a temperature of at least +20 degrees C. Before storage, the bulbs of daffodils are cleaned, inspected and dysfunctional ones are removed. If any daughter bulbs are found, do not separate them from the mother bulbs. This can lead to illness. The kids will separate themselves when the time comes. Store the bulbs before planting at a temperature of 16-18 degrees C.

Growing beautiful daffodils in the garden

Growing daffodils in the country is very popular, both among gardeners and urban gardeners and landscape designers. Thanks to the delicate flowers that begin to bloom in early spring and become the first decoration of the garden, they are called "garden snowdrops".

Daffodils are not demanding to care for, but they need an individual approach, which is why when growing, questions arise: when to cut daffodils and whether they need to be dug out after flowering.

The best varieties of daffodils for the garden

When buying, you should definitely pay attention to what type and variety the planting material belongs to. Consider the most common in Russia.

Trumpet narcissus

In the center of a rather large, single flower is a bell-shaped crown. It can be a combination of yellow and white or one of the shades.

Large-cupped narcissus

A single flower, but with a shorter crown and an unusual crown color and a perianth shading it.

Small-cupped narcissus

Flowers have wild, uncultivated forms, are not popular due to their small size, but are resistant to pests and major diseases. New varieties with improved decorative characteristics often appear, since selection work is being carried out in the direction of this group.

Terry daffodils (lat.Narcissus double)

Elegant, chic varieties that can be called gift. Large double flowers can be single or several per peduncle.

Daffodils triandrus (lat.Triandrus narcissus)

Multiflorous daffodils, yellow and white. There are few varieties in the group and they practically do not differ.

Choosing planting material

The daffodil reproduces by dividing the bulbs, which can be single-peaked (one apex and one bottom) and multi-peaked (have several peaks with a common bottom). If possible, it is better to choose the second option, since when planting planting material with one apex, only one stem will develop. Multi-peaked bulbs can be divided for propagation by cutting them with a knife along with the bottom and sprinkling the cuts with ash. Such "delenki" must be kept in the shade for several days before planting.

Bulbs are best purchased in mid-August, three months after flowering. In the southern regions, daffodils bloom earlier, therefore, the period for their acquisition is closer to the middle of summer.

When choosing bulbs, you need to pay attention to their elasticity and density, they should not be too soft. The bottom should ideally be clean and whole, the necks smooth and dense, without signs of rot.

Bulbs that have been dug up with the remainder of the stem or are sold with flowers. It is better not to take a bulb that has begun to germinate and a young sprout has already appeared. Poor planting material also includes multi-peaked bulbs with a large number of "daughter" bulbs.

Preparing and planting daffodils outdoors

For the cultivation of daffodils in the country to be successful, and the flowering is lush, it is important to choose the right time and place of planting. Also, for these flowers, the neighborhood is important, as well as which plants were previously grown at the planting site.

Choosing a daffodil planting site

A place well lit by the sun or light partial shade is suitable for planting daffodils. Also, one of the conditions is good protection from wind and drafts - then the flower will be large, and the flowering will last.

Narcissus is not picky about the soil, it can grow on sandstone and loam. The soil is prepared a week before planting, the flower bed is dug to a depth of at least 30 cm.

For cultivation in clay soils, sand is added (2 buckets per 1 sq. M.), And humus is added to sandy soils (2-3 buckets per 1 sq. M.).

Fertilizer when planting daffodils

Daffodils love organic fertilizing, but they cannot tolerate fertilization with fresh manure and droppings, so it can be applied to the soil a year before planting. This is usually done at the same time as digging, so the preparation of the flower garden should be planned long before planting.

Daffodils should not be grown in the place where they have already grown for 3-4 years, the earth needs rest for 5-6 years. It is also recommended to avoid planting in place of asters, phlox or chrysanthemums, as well as other bulbous flowers - gladioli, lilies, amaryllis, dahlias, calla lilies.

Planting daffodils outdoors

The wells for planting bulbs are prepared according to the size of the planting material. Usually, the depth is three times greater, and the width is about one and a half. If the autumn turns out to be dry, the plantings are spilled with water once.

Daffodils - growing and care

With proper preparation and planting, the culture rarely gets sick, is not demanding on climatic conditions and fertilizers. Therefore, caring for daffodils is not difficult.

Top dressing daffodils

Daffodil feeding does not require variety. Fertilization during the emergence of sprouts, ovary buds and flowering, you can use the same thing, for example, nitrophoska. During the germination period, it is applied at the rate of 100 g per 1 sq. M., During the period of bud formation and flowering, 50-60 g per 1 sq. M.

After flowering, the plants are fed only with fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium, mixing them in equal parts and fertilizing the garden with 50-60 g per 1 sq. Fertilizers are best applied together with watering the plants, after which it is useful to slightly loosen the soil.

Watering daffodils

The daffodil loves watering plentifully, about 2 buckets per square meter. The plant does not tolerate stagnant water, like many bulbous plants, so the soil must have good drainage. After flowering, it is necessary to continue watering, since it is during this period that the bulbs are stocked with minerals for the next season.

Caring for daffodils after flowering

After the plant has bloomed, caring for it does not end - it is necessary to prepare for the next season. Caring for daffodils after flowering is not difficult, but a must.

Do daffodils need to be pruned after flowering

In the case when the bulbs of daffodils remain to winter in their place, their yellowed dried leaves can be raked gently with a small rake, or braided with "pigtails". If the bulbs are going to be dug up, the foliage should be left to locate the bulb so that the dump proceeds without loss.

Trimming the leaves is generally undesirable and can be done after digging or during the process; the only thing that should be removed without fail is wilted peduncles.

When to dig up daffodils after flowering

Each gardener decides for himself how often he will dig up and transplant daffodils. Basically, they do this every 3-4 years, covering the plantings from freezing with a layer of peat for the winter. In this case, when replanting the bulbs, it is necessary to select a new location for the daffodil flower bed in order to comply with the crop rotation.

Some growers prefer to dig up the bulbs every year, thereby carrying out a "revision" of the planting material. This option is inconvenient, as it creates additional hassle in the summer season, and the bulbs are very poorly stored outside the soil.

On the other hand, the annual digging makes it possible each time to plan the planting of daffodils in a new way, sort them by type, treat them from pests and divide the bulbs to obtain new planting material.

In fact, transplanting daffodils is necessary only when the planting has been in one place for several years, the flowers grow and shrink and it is time to subject the bulbs to division and sorting.

Figuring out exactly when to dig up daffodils for transplanting is very difficult, as different varieties and growing conditions alter flowering times. It is recommended to pay attention to the behavior of the plant. Daffodils should be dug out after flowering, when the tips of the leaves begin to turn yellow and the bush begins to "disintegrate" and lose its integrity. There is no need to wait for the leaves to completely die off, since during this period the bulbs can already give new roots, and digging or transplanting will damage them.

Transplanting daffodils from place to place in the summer is not desirable, since the bulbs will be weakened and will not tolerate adaptation well. If it is necessary to change the location of the flower beds, they are dug up, and the planting is carried out already next year.

How to store daffodil bulbs

After digging, the bulbs are dried, the damaged and rotten ones are discarded and treated with a weak solution of manganese. After this procedure, the bulbs are again dried in the shade for several days, then stored in a wooden box or box until September - the optimal time for planting daffodils.

The best storage temperature for bulbs is plus 17-18 degrees Celsius. Before planting for 2-3 days, it should be lowered to plus 9 degrees.

Outcome

Caring for daffodils is not difficult, and their beauty and grace are appreciated by many landscape designers and flower growers. Providing flowers with the right conditions, you can be proud of the beautiful flower bed that decorates your garden and attracts admiring glances from guests and neighbors.

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Nadezhda Filatova 09/25/2015 | 3314

Unpretentious daffodils tolerate even very severe frosts, and in the spring they are one of the first to delight with their abundant flowering. Learn how to properly plant daffodil bulbs outdoors.

The short dormant period makes it possible to plant daffodil bulbs in open ground among the first - already in August. You need to complete the landing no later than mid-October. This is necessary so that, before the onset of severe frosts, the bulbs have time to root well, but not hatch, otherwise the plants will die. The optimum soil temperature for planting is 8-10 ° C.

If you haven't managed to plant daffodils before the end of October, don't be discouraged. You can plant the bulbs later, but in this case it will be necessary to mulch them with dry leaves, spruce branches or sawdust.

How to prepare daffodil bulbs for planting

When buying planting material, pay attention to the appearance of the bulbs. They must be dense, without visible mechanical or any other damage, mold, rotten areas and holes near the bottom.

Be very careful with the delicate and fragile roots of the daffodils. If they are damaged or torn off, the bulb will most likely die, because new roots will not have time to form.

Another mandatory preparatory stage is disinfection... To prevent the appearance of rot and fungal diseases, you need to pickle the bulbs in a solution of any fungicide (Maxim, Skor, Fundazol, Vitaros, etc.).

How to prepare a solution of the drug Maxim at home

Pour 1 liter of clean water into a deep bowl, carefully cut the package with the preparation, pour it into the water and mix thoroughly using a wooden stick or a disposable stirrer. The solution should be bright red.

Alternatively, you can pickle the bulbs in an ordinary solution. It is enough to hold the bulbs in a pink solution of potassium permanganate for no more than 30 minutes.

How to choose the right place for planting daffodils

If you bought varietal daffodils of pink or orange color, then it is better to plant their partial shade, otherwise the flowers may fade. The optimal place for planting all other varieties is calm and well-lit areas.

Compositions of bright daffodils look great along hedges, fences and in the near-trunk circles of fruit trees. Daffodils begin to bloom much earlier than the first foliage appears on the trees, so there will be enough light for them.

You should not choose low-lying areas for planting daffodils, where melt water stagnates, and the soil does not have time to dry out. In such places, the bulbs can begin to rot or mold.

What kind of soil do daffodils need?

Daffodils are unpretentious, so they can grow on almost any soil. But still, in order for the flowering to be lush and abundant, it is better to plant the bulbs in nutritious loamy or sandy loam soil.

Poor sandy soil before planting daffodils need to be made more nutritious. To do this, you need to add humus to it (at the rate of 15 kg per 1 sq. M), compost (5-7 kg per 1 sq. M) or rotted manure (20 kg per 1 sq. M). Fresh manure can only be added in advance: a year and a half before the planned planting.
To do clay soils suitable for planting daffodils, it is imperative to add coarse sand at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 sq. m. Additionally, you can add some sand to the bottom of the hole.

How to plant daffodil bulbs outdoors

Daffodil bulbs can be planted in special bulb baskets and simply in the ground. In any case, the planting depth should be three bulb heights.

Using a bulb planter, make holes 10 cm apart.

If additional soil drainage is required, add a 1-1.5 cm layer of coarse sand to the bottom. Place the onion at the bottom of the hole and cover with earth. You can also plant daffodils in neat rows.

Daffodil bulbs can be planted less often, at a distance of 15 and even 20 cm from each other. In this case, the baby will grow much faster.

Before the onset of stable frosts, daffodils must be covered with spruce branches, foliage, peat, sawdust or straw.

What to do when daffodils have faded?

It is best to cut the flower stalks before forming a seed box on them. You should not touch the green leaves of daffodils, but the faded and yellowed ones must be removed. There is no need to dig up the bulbs annually - they can grow in one place for up to 5 years. And in order for the flower bed to remain beautiful all summer, in May you can sow annual seeds on it.

By properly planting daffodils outdoors in the fall, you can enjoy their beautiful bloom as early as next spring.

In spring, the delicate and lovely bulbous flowers of daffodils bloom in the gardens. In late winter - early spring, flower shops sell them in pots. This is a great gift for International Women's Day or any other holiday. For example, why not grow daffodils at home and decorate the New Year's table with them? The nuances of growing daffodils at home in pots, how to plant and care properly, when to do forcing, so that they bloom by March 8, on Valentine's Day or another holiday? You will find the answers to these questions in our article.

It is important! It takes about four months to distill the daffodils. That is, it will take about 4 months from planting the bulb in the pot to flowering. Therefore, to get flowers by February 14, start planting in October, forcing daffodils by March 8 - in November, and by the New Year - at the end of August. But experienced gardeners have come up with ACCELERATED Daffodil Distillation for 2 months, the technology of which read below.

It is not difficult to grow daffodils in an apartment, but in order for the bulbs to sprout and the flowers turn out beautiful, certain conditions are necessary:

Air temperature after planting the bulbs before the sprouts appear, it should be +3 .. + 9 degrees. The sprouts that appear are transferred to a warmer place with a temperature of about +10 degrees. After a few days they can be transferred to a room where the air temperature is +15 .. + 18 degrees. At higher temperatures, leaves and buds will wilt and flowering will be short-lived.
Lighting for daffodils good, but no direct sunlight is required. In winter, when the days are short, it is recommended to light up the plants in the morning and in the evening.
Air humidity- not less than 70%. To do this, in an apartment with working batteries around the flowers, place containers with water and cover the heating radiators with damp rags. You can spray the air around the plants.

If you can provide such conditions for flowers, feel free to grow daffodils in a pot at home.

Varieties and photos of daffodils for growing at home

Thanks to the breeders who are developing more and more varieties of various plants. Thanks to them, southern crops can be grown in regions with cold climates, and outdoor plants can be grown at home.

There are varieties of daffodils that are adapted to grow and bloom indoors in pots. Of these, the most popular are beautiful and unpretentious:

Snowball - white flowers are distinguished by a lush crown that looks like a ball. The buds are about 8 cm in diameter.

Pictured are daffodils of the Snowball Snowball variety

Avalanche (Avalanche) - the variety is interesting for the arrangement of flowers. Up to 10 flowers with white petals and a golden-yellow crown are formed on one stem.

In the photo, daffodils of the Avalanche variety

Ziva (Ziva) - plant height can reach from 15 to 50 cm (depending on the species). Flowers are pale white, up to 10 per stem.

In the photo, daffodils of the Ziva variety (Ziva)

February Gold is an interesting variety, whose flowers consist of pointed yellow petals and a double crown of the same color. The diameter of the buds is about 8 cm, the height of the plant is up to 30 cm.

In the photo there are daffodils of the February Gold variety

Magnet - large flowers up to 14 cm in diameter bloom on stems up to 50 cm long. Their pale yellow petals brighten towards the edges, and the crown is distinguished by a bright yellow color.

In the photo there are daffodils of the Magnet variety

Papery (Papyraceus) - the name of this variety of daffodils speaks for itself, since the flowers on it are white, like a sheet of paper. They have a diameter of only 3 cm, but up to 11 buds are formed on each peduncle. This is one of the most unpretentious varieties, the distillation of which is the simplest. The bulbs do not need to be cold treated, and the sprouts in the pot will appear in two to six weeks.

In the photo, a variety of daffodils Papery Papyraceus

Advice! Plant the same varieties of daffodils in the same pot. Then the flowers will bloom at the same time, and you will get a beautiful bouquet. The fact is that the vegetative period is also different for different varieties.

Bulb selection

For planting daffodils at home in a pot, planting material should be carefully selected. Bulb requirements:

hard onions without damage, rot or signs of disease;
give preference to large, large onions;
the roots should be firm to the touch.

Attention! If you are forcing daffodils by a certain date, keep in mind that if the bulb does not have roots, it will take an additional 2 weeks. The onions will need to be soaked for two weeks in a solution of any growth stimulant and placed in the vegetable section of the refrigerator, a frost-free cellar or on a glazed loggia. Do not immerse the bulbs completely in the solution. Pour it into a flat container and place the onions so that only the bottom is in the growth stimulator.

It is best to plant the bulbs immediately after purchase, otherwise they may dry out at home. If this is not possible, store them in a cool, dry and dark place.

Pot and soil selection

Planting tulip bulbs for growing at home is possible not only in a pot. They will look beautiful in a wide pots, basket, low vase. However, the container must have drainage holes and certain dimensions:

for short daffodils, pick up a pot up to 15 cm high, since their onions are small;
for common varieties, containers with a height of about 30 cm are used;
for growing one bulb, the diameter of the pot should be 15-20 cm;
when planting several bulbs in one container, make sure that they all enter freely, and there is still some room around for the soil from which the roots will draw nutrients.

Too large slides for planting daffodils are not recommended. A lot of soil around the bulb is a direct way to rotting it. It's even better if the onions are cramped.

Attention! The height of the pot can be easily matched to the size of the onions. There should be 3-5 cm of earth under the bottom, and the onions should be covered with soil by 2/3 of the part. Add a layer of drainage to this and you get the height of the pot necessary for planting daffodils.

The soil in the store opt for bulbous flowers. If you use garden soil, mix it with sand or sawdust and disinfect it with a pink solution of potassium permanganate or Fitosporin diluted according to the instructions. The result should be loose soil.

Be sure to prepare the drain. It can be perlite, expanded clay, broken shards or even small pieces of foam.

Forcing daffodils in a pot: planting and care step by step with video

Before planting in a pot, daffodil bulbs are recommended to be disinfected for 30 minutes in a pink solution of potassium permanganate.

And now ATTENTION ! For daffodils to bloom in a pot about 2 months after planting, place the bottoms of the bulbs in a solution of any growth promoter for two weeks and keep in a cool place. A vegetable section of the refrigerator or a room with the same temperature will do. After that, you can start planting.

How to pot and care for daffodils after planting:

Pour the first layer into the pot drainage(3-4 cm), which we cover with soil. Soil layer should be about 5 cm for large onions and slightly less for small ones.
Neatly press the bulbs with the bottom down and cover them with soil so that the upper third part remains not covered.
Place the onions very close to each other, but not end-to-end. There should be a very small distance between them, otherwise they may be affected by fungal diseases.
Pour sand between the bulbs... He will protect them from decay.
Water the planting separated water.
Cover the pots with a dark cloth and place to a cool place from +2 to +9 degrees.
Monitor soil moisture... Maybe during rooting during the month, it will need to be moistened a little two or three times.
As soon as the sprouts appear and reach a height of 3-4 cm, remove the shelter and place the pots with daffodils in a bright place with a temperature of +10 degrees. Attention! If immediately placed in a warm room, the peduncle may stretch out or even the bulb may not bloom.
After 3-4 days put daffodils in pots in the room and you can wait for flowers.

With proper planting and care, daffodils will bloom in 24-30 days during the forcing period. It all depends on the type of flowers.

Advice! To get a long-blooming daffodil lawn at home, plant varieties of different ripening periods in several pots.

WATCH THE VIDEO - HOW TO PLANT DARCISSUES IN POTS FOR PASSION

Care during flowering for a daffodil in a pot

Caring for flowering daffodils consists in timely watering, rare fertilizing and providing plants with the conditions that are described at the beginning of our article.

Do not moisten the earth often. Water only when the soil is dry, otherwise the bulbs may start to rot.

Most often, during distillation, daffodils are not fed, since the bulbs have enough nutrients. You can feed the plants a little after the emergence of sprouts and during budding with a solution of mineral fertilizers for bulbous flowers.

By the way! Daffodils will bloom at home longer if you provide them with cool conditions, that is, a temperature of about +12 degrees. The warmer it is in the apartment, the earlier the flowers will wither.

Caring for daffodils after flowering

It is practically not necessary to care for daffodils after they have not faded. Water the plants as the soil dries until they wither. Then cut the flower stalk, cover the container with a cloth and move the pot to a cool place. It will be necessary to store them there until the end of summer, after which they can be planted in a flower bed in the garden.

It is recommended to use daffodil bulbs once for distillation. The flowering quality may be worse the second time.

Forcing daffodils in pots by March 8, Valentine's Day, New Year's is not difficult, especially if you have all the conditions in your house for growing them.

When growing daffodils, many novice florists often have questions: "Is it necessary to prune daffodils when they have faded?" Why prune daffodils - what is the feature? " etc. In this article we will tell you when to prune daffodils after flowering, and how to do it so as not to harm them.

After the flowering of daffodils is over, they should not be touched. They should remain growing as green bushes, without flowers. During this period, the bulbs of plants store nutrients, so the leaves should not be cut off until they are completely dry.

Further, your actions will depend on whether you want to leave them for the winter in the soil or dig them up for transplanting. Do not forget that despite the frost resistance, bulbs in the ground can be damaged in very cold weather and snowless winter months. They suffer especially often with the arrival of the first thaws. Bulbs react to warming, wake up and release the first shoots. But subsequent frosts on the ground can destroy barely sprouted shoots.

When to prune daffodils after flowering for the winter?

When the plants have faded, they need to be fertilized. Choose fertilizer with a high percentage of phosphorus and potassium. Now you need to wait until the leaves are completely dry, then remove them and loosen the soil. There is an opinion that daffodils are unpretentious and do just fine without covering before winter, but it is erroneous. In particular, plants need this if they were planted in the second half of September. This is a late planting, because, before the arrival of cold weather, the flowers do not have time to fully adapt and may not survive in the frosty, snowless winter.

The most vulnerable to frost are varieties of daffodils with large flowers. To protect them from freezing, cover the flowers with dry fallen leaves, peat, dry grass, wood ash or special materials for mulching (for example, agrofibre). The soil must be mulched before the frost hits. How to mulch the soil correctly, you can learn from the article:. You can remove the mulch layer only in spring, when there will be no sudden changes in temperature and the risk of frost outside.

If you plan to keep daffodils at home during the winter.

When pruning daffodils after flowering is required for their home keeping, there is no need to wait for the leaves to die off. You need to dig the bulbs at the end of June, the beginning of July. When you notice that the edges of the leaves have begun to turn yellow and the bushes are falling apart. The process can be lengthy, depending on how humid the summer is. Some growers do not wait for the leaves to dry - digging up the bulbs earlier, due to the high probability of hitting them with a daffodil fly. Indeed, it is better not to delay digging the onions, since after the leaves die off, it will be more difficult to detect them in the ground.

After digging up, trim off the remaining leaves and dry the bulbs in a dark, dry place. After drying the bulbs, treat the damaged parts. The rest - you need to rinse in running water and put in a strong solution of manganese for disinfection. Let the onions sit there for up to 10 minutes, and then put them back to dry in a dark place.

In one place, daffodils can grow up to 9 years old. However, when the bush becomes large and stops blooming, it needs a transplant. In addition, some of the varieties themselves require an annual repotting, for example: double or tubular daffodil. So they will better maintain varietal characteristics. In addition, daffodils planted in peat soil need to be transplanted annually.

Caring for daffodils must be continued after the delicate flowers have wilted. This period is very important in the life of the plant, as it has a decisive influence on the flowering of the next season.

Pruning the leaves of faded daffodils

Dried peduncles must be removed immediately as soon as the flowers wither, if there is no question of obtaining seed material for reproduction. This is done in order to prevent the formation of seeds, which will take away vital juices from the bulbs. Old peduncles are neatly cut off near the ground with pruning shears, garden shears, or simply broken out by hand.

Withered daffodil flowers are removed immediately after flowering

The foliage must be left until it naturally wilts and dries out. The processes of photosynthesis continue in the leaves, as a result of which nutrients are supplied to the bulb. If you cut them ahead of time, then this stock will be small, the plant will weaken and may die in winter, or the flowering will be scarce.

Daffodil leaves continue to supply nutrients to the bulb, so they are not pruned until they wilt and turn yellow.

Usually the ground part of a daffodil dries up completely within 6-8 weeks after flowering, then it can be safely removed.

Some gardeners practice braiding daffodil leaves in braids and knots, which are laid on the ground between other crops, while they do not spoil the appearance of the entire flower bed.

Braided daffodil foliage fits between other plants and does not spoil the look of the flower bed

Video: remove faded daffodil stalks

Top dressing of daffodils after flowering

You can help the bulb ripen and effectively form flower buds with competent feeding. The best option during this period are fertilizers with a high content of potassium and phosphorus:

It is important not to overdo it with mineral supplements. It is believed that their excessive amount negatively affects the winter hardiness of the bulbs.

Until the foliage of the daffodils turns yellow, they need to be watered along with the rest of the flowers in the flower bed.

For about 2-3 weeks after flowering, while the leaves of the daffodils are still completely green, I continue to water them along with the rest of the flowers. As soon as the first signs of drying are outlined, I gradually stop watering.

Daffodil bulbs: when to dig up

The time for digging up daffodils is determined by the state of the foliage. When it is completely dead and dry, the bulbs can be removed from the ground.

Daffodils dig up when the tops wither and turn yellow

Do not wait until the leaves fall off completely. The exact location of the bulbs becomes difficult to determine and can be accidentally damaged when dug up.

It is impossible to be late with the digging, because daffodils can re-root and then react extremely painfully to this procedure. Most often, they are taken out of the ground in late June or early July, and then stored in a cool place for about two months. But you can also plant it immediately after dividing the bushes. If there is no need for transplanting and dividing nests, then daffodils are not dug out, but left in the ground.

Daffodils are usually dug up in late June or early July.

Several years ago, I accidentally bought several varietal daffodil bulbs at a sale. I got them quite inexpensively, because autumn was already in full swing and the time for planting bulbs had passed. They had to be planted in practically frozen soil, since there was nowhere to store until spring. In the spring, everyone bloomed. I did not dig up the bulbs and every year there were more and more flowers. After 4 years, it became clear that the nests had grown and it was time to share with the neighbors.

Dividing and transplanting daffodil bulbs

Narcissus is one of those bulbous crops that do not require an annual transplant.... They grow well in one place for at least 5-6 years, sometimes even more.

Daffodils can grow in one place for 5-6 years

Some new varieties and hybrids are replanted every summer to better preserve varietal traits.

The need for dividing and planting a bush arises when the crushing of flowers is clearly noticeable and the number of peduncles is reduced. In this case, the leaf mass falls apart in different directions, forming untidy thickets.

It is necessary to transplant daffodils when there are few flowers and they are small

The work is carried out using the following technology:

The bulbs removed from the ground are carefully shaken off of the soil residues and laid out for drying in a well-ventilated, dry and shaded place for 2-3 days. Pre-cut dry leaves, leave live roots.
The foliage is cut off from the dug up daffodils, the roots are left
The mother's bulbs are taken apart and separated. Some kids separate on their own, and some have to be broken off. The place of the break must be sprinkled with crushed charcoal or ash in order to avoid infection.
The mother's bulb needs to be divided
All sick, weak and suspicious specimens are discarded.
Specimens damaged by a daffodil fly must be destroyed
Healthy daffodils are planted immediately or stored in a cool dry place until August (1.5–2 months). They are planted in holes with a depth equal to three onion diameters, and at a distance of at least 10–12 cm between themselves.
The bulb is planted to a depth equal to three of its diameters.
The planting site is filled with ash mixed with dry sand (1/3 cup per bulb), and any mineral complex fertilizer (1 tsp per bulb).
After transplanting the daffodil bulb, you need to water it well.

If the transplant is made no later than the beginning of September, then the daffodils can take root well before the cold weather. Later planted plants will need to be covered with a layer of cut grass, straw, peat or dry foliage for the winter.

Late planted daffodil bulbs are best covered for the winter with a layer of dry foliage.

It is allowed to store bulbs in a cool (about 0 ° C) dark room until spring. A cellar or basement is most suitable for this purpose, but a refrigerator can also be used (no more than two months). Before storage, the planting material is disinfected in a strong solution of potassium permanganate and etched with insecticidal preparations (Karbofos, Fufanon, etc.).

Video: when is it time to transplant daffodils

Competent care of faded daffodils will help plants quickly recover, gain strength, winter well and again delight their owners with delicate and fragile spring flowers.

Show all

Post-flowering care

pruning;
top dressing;
seating of bulbs.

All nutrients from the leaves go down to the bulbs. Once they dry naturally, they are cut and burned.

Cultures in containers

When are daffodils transplanted?

It is permissible to remove the heads for transplanting if the leaves are not completely wilted. This happens in the middle of summer. Take extreme care not to damage the bulbs.

Caring for lilies after flowering - can the shoots be cut?

Color division

Before planting, the soil is dug to a great depth and all stony inclusions and debris are removed. If necessary, add humus. Pre-onions are soaked in a fungicide solution for 2-3 hours.

Shelter for the winter

Storing the bulbs

Do not place tulip and hyacinth bulbs in the neighborhood. They are also perennials, but with different storage requirements.

Daffodils are bright and delicate garden daffodils that delight the gardener's eye from year to year. This flower is able to overwinter and bloom with renewed vigor in spring. But when the daffodils have faded, what to do next?

It is also equally important to rid the site of. It is advisable to fertilize the soil well with organic matter, for example, use a lot or rotted. After fertilizing the plot, respecting the depth to the bayonet.

Did you know?Narcissus essential oil has long been used in perfumery. Its popularity was based on its gentle and intoxicating scent. Since the introduction of synthetic and cheaper flavors, daffodil is practically not used.

Landing scheme

To plant daffodil bulbs, you need to dig holes, the depth of each of them should be three times the diameter of the bulb itself. Compost is poured into the bottom of the hole, after which the onion is placed.

The sharp tip of the bulb should always point upwards. After that, the hole is covered with earth and watered abundantly.

In the case when daffodils are planted in order to get many children, it is recommended to plant in an ordinary way, observing the distance between the holes of 15-20 cm.If the distance is less (10-12 cm), fewer children will form, but the bulbs will be larger.

This option is suitable for elite varieties of daffodils that are replanted every year. Also a good option for group planting is a "tight circle". So you can create a composition that looks like a beautiful blooming bouquet.

Follow-up care

Since caring for daffodils, especially at first, is very important, there are some important things to keep in mind.

The soil must be regularly moistened and loosened. As a top dressing, mulch (peat or) or a layer can be used. You can also cover the area with a layer of dry foliage, this works especially well in snowless winters. In the spring, foliage is removed from the site.

Separation of bulbs after flowering

For several years, the bulbs grow and become cramped for them. The mother's bulb multiplies, creating a cluster of small bulbs around itself, which are called babies. As a result, the number and size of flowers may decrease as nutrients go into the bulbs, which is why separation and transplanting is so important.

To form stronger, developed bulbs, buds and flowers are cut on many bulbous plants. Inflorescences of tulips, daffodils, hyacinths are cut immediately after flowering to prevent excessive depletion of plants.

At the same time, 1-2 leaves are left for a tulip, all leaves for a daffodil and hyacinth.

Hyacinth must be dug out of the soil every year, this is done by hand when the leaves turn yellow.

The hyacinth bulbs are cleaned from the ground and placed in a row in boxes, leaving them to dry for 2-3 days under a canopy. Then they are cleaned of excess scales, roots, growths on the bottom, a well-formed baby is separated.

The bulbs are stored at a temperature of 20 + 25 degrees in paper bags; to maintain an average humidity, they should be lightly sprayed with water or covered with a damp cloth.

Without a transplant, daffodils can grow in one place for 5 years, then it is advisable to plant them, because they grow strongly and form large nests of bulbs.

Daffodils are planted earlier than other bulbs from the end of August to the end of September!

Planting depth of the bulb is 15 cm (on loams). If the soils are heavy - 12 cm, on the light ones - 17 cm.

The distance between the bulbs of daffodils is 10-12 cm. With such a dense planting, the bulbs are large, with a rare planting, many children grow.

On one dream, tulips can be grown for 3-4 years. It cannot be returned to its original place earlier than after 2-3 years.

Tulips are planted in September - October, planting depth 12-15 cm, with a distance between the bulbs 18-20 cm.

Peat or sawdust is poured onto the planted tulips before the cold snap, with a layer of 5 cm, and in the spring the mulch is not removed, but loosened.

The bulbs are harvested after the leaves wilted (late June - early July).

If possible, it is better to cut off flowers from faded tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, if you do not plan to remove a new variety from seeds. Then the nutrients will completely enter the bulb and contribute to its growth and the establishment of a new flower bud for the next year.

Not necessarily ... they need to be cut when they begin to bloom ... the bulbs will have time to ripen by the end of summer.

It is enough not to leave the seed pods, and if you cut the flowers, then leave at least two leaves.

The main thing is not to cut the leaves.They feed through them

It is advisable to cut after 4-5 days of flowering. But you can simply cut off the seed pods.

Quite right. After flowering, nutrients from the leaves are drained into the bulb. All leaves do not need to be cut off.

I never cut off at all, cut off the seed pods after flowering, as they rightly said, and the bulb will gain strength from the leaves

Surely, flower lovers have thought more than once about planting and growing certain flowers at home, because not everyone has summer cottages or garden plots. Here we will look at self-care for daffodils at home - this flower is very popular due to its early flowering and unpretentious nature.

Growing this wonderful plant at home is not so difficult, and the patience that most flower lovers have is always worth the effort and patience.

Narcissus is a perennial bulbous plant of the amaryllis family that is very suitable for growing at home in pots and flowerpots. With proper care, timely feeding, the right choice of soil and conditions for the plant - in gratitude, he will delight you with his beautiful flowers and aroma.

Which varieties are best for home growing

Daffodils have many varieties, which affects the color and structure of their flowers. Today there are more than 30 of them and many more breeding subspecies. Different varieties have leaves of different lengths and widths, but the color of the bushes is always rich dark green.

The flowers are yellow, white and recently hatched - a pale pink color of the crown. The structure of the petals can be smooth or terry. Since the flowers of daffodils are located on separate peduncles, pruning them does not cause any damage to the bulbs themselves.

The pear-shaped daffodil bulbs are very interesting. They have two renewing buds in their structure. Moreover, these kidneys have two completely different stages of difference. Roots grow best and most intensively in autumn. Their lifespan is about 11 months, after this period they die off.

What specific varieties can we touch on? The most common are Fortune, Magnet, Yellowsun, Ziva, Inbal.

The Paper variety has become widespread. This daffodil has a large number of white flowers located on one peduncle.

Planting and caring for daffodils at home

Self-care for daffodils at home is a painstaking task. Absolutely everything is important: the choice of bulbs, planting conditions, containers, soil, etc. But first things first.

First, let's look at how to choose daffodil bulbs for the best results?

At first, it is important to externally carefully examine the bulbs. Their ideal color is uniform, without spots and specks. They should look healthy and firm. Pay attention that there are no cracks, holes or rotten dark spots.
Secondly, it is advisable to weigh each onion. Bulbs of 6 g or more are best suited for planting. Anything below this weight is more suitable for seedlings in the garden.

Remember that the entire bulb does not need to be buried in the soil. It should look out of the ground by a third. Planting is best in September. After planting the bulb, be sure to water with plenty of water and sweep the soil around the plant.

After planting the daffodil, the pot with the bulb is placed in a dark place for 3 months. The temperature around should not exceed 10 degrees. As soon as the plant sprouts, you can safely move the pot to the windowsill by the window.

Pot selection

A pot or flowerpot for planting must be covered with a lower, drainage layer of expanded clay, pebbles or brick fragments. The pots shouldn't be too tall.

It is recommended to choose vases made of clay or ceramics, with the obligatory holes at the bottom for excess water to escape. If the water stagnates, the plant may start to rot. With stagnant moisture, the risk of fungal infections also increases. One pot can be planted from two or more bulbs, it all depends on its size.

Soil selection

You can buy soil for planting at any flower shop, make sure that the packaging says "for daffodils". But it is not necessary to use a commercially available substrate. Ordinary garden soil is also suitable for filling flowerpots. The main thing is to add a little sand, clay and sawdust to it. Be sure to make sure that the soil is soft, light, crumbly.

If you decide to take up self-care for daffodils in a room environment, keep in mind that there are not many moments in the room that are in open nature. For example, it is unacceptable for soil particles to stick together; there must be enough oxygen in the ground.

Otherwise, daffodils will be doomed to rot and fungal infections. Under natural conditions, the soil is drained by winds, rain, worms. And at home, all these factors are absent and they must be created artificially.

Choosing a location (which window is suitable, lighting)

Daffodils are not very capricious flowers in terms of care. There are a few basic rules to follow. The main thing is not to place the culture next to other types of flowers. There is a certain amount of toxic substances in the daffodil, they can harm the more capricious plants growing nearby.

You do not need to eat daffodil, and then it is not dangerous at all. Therefore, make sure that it does not fall into the hands of children and food for animals.

The place for the flowerpot should be fairly lit, but not in direct sunlight. Delicate plants do not tolerate direct sun very well. Also, do not place the pot near heating radiators.

Temperature and humidity

Do not forget about the temperature around and about the humidity of the air. These are very important indicators for a plant.

Normal, comfortable temperature for daffodils is around 18 degrees. Recommended humidity is about 50-60%.

If the moisture level in the room is insufficient, it is advisable to use commercially available humidifiers. You can also put water on a heating radiator to increase the humidity in the room.

When flowers appear, it is advisable to move the pot to a cooler place. This will significantly increase the flowering period. The temperature at the time of flowering should be within 12 degrees.

Watering

It is very important to properly approach the watering of the plant. You cannot fill it with water, otherwise it will get sick with fungal diseases. Water as the soil dries up and directly into the pallet. With the beginning of flowering, watering is carried out more often, when flowering is completed, it is more moderate. When the leaves turn yellow, watering stops.

During the growth period, flowers should be watered in a regular manner, with settled water at room temperature.

Fertilizer

With home, self-care for daffodils, it is very important to timely fertilize and feed.

In indoor conditions, this must be monitored no less than in the garden. It is best to use peat fertilizers or the peat itself. This is done during and after flowering.

Wood ash and minerals are most suitable for fertilizing the soil in summer and autumn.

In the spring, fertilizing is done mainly with nitrogen-potash fertilizers. For the first time after the emergence of sprouts, after - with the appearance of buds, about once every one and a half weeks. During the flowering period and when watering is stopped, there is no need to do top dressing.

What to do after flowering

Daffodils need your care after flowering. Flowers are removed as they dry. When the bush has completely faded, the rest of the plant is removed. You need to let them dry completely. During this period, watering is carried out in moderation, as well as feeding no more than once every ten days.

After complete wilting, the supra-onion part is cut off, the bulbs themselves are carefully dug out, dried and sent to storage in a dark, cool place. It will not be superfluous to treat them with Fungicide. They are no longer suitable for replanting in a pot. They can now only be planted in open areas in a garden or flower bed.

How to propagate a homemade daffodil

The daffodil has two methods of reproduction - by seeds and vegetative shoots. To propagate a daffodil by seeds means getting used to the fact that self-care for seedlings will last 6-7 years.

Before planting, the seeds are dried in advance. Then they are soaked for a couple of hours in potassium permanganate and sown in pots.

Courtship takes place, as well as for bulbous seedlings at home. Until shoots appear, keep containers with seeds in a warm place under a greenhouse shelter. The soil is regularly moistened and ventilated.

At first, the sprouts are left in place so that the bulbs get stronger and give stronger roots. In the future, they are transplanted to a place where the daffodils will grow constantly.

Please note that seed germination is not very high. This method is not recommended for beginners. It is complex, long, laborious.

The vegetative propagation method is simpler, it consists of two more options. The first is the separation of babies from the onion mother. They are seated separately. They continue to look after the grown bulbs.

The second method allows daffodils to propagate using scales. To do this, select the largest onions and pre-dry them for about a week. After they are cut into shares, having previously cut off the top. These shares are put in a bag and closed for 4 months. They are kept in this form, in a cool place, until small bulbs form, which are then planted in pots and looked after.

Diseases and pests of daffodils

The most common pests are:

big daffodil fly,
bulbous root mite,
clickers,
onion hoverfly,
cabbage scoop,
slugs - they harm mainly by breeding offspring, which eats either bulbs or stems and buds. Adults can do harm too.

At home, not all types of these pests can start in plants. There is a risk only if the windows are constantly open in the house or there is an infected plant nearby.

Common diseases include fusarium, various types of rot, curvularia, bacterial scab, bacterial rot.

In almost all types of these infections, it is necessary to destroy the affected areas of the plants and avoid transmission of the disease to healthy plants.

Diseases detected in time, the use of insecticides and disinfectants will help to fence your plants from any misfortunes. Proper storage and selection of healthy planting material is the key to healthy flowers that delight your eyes!

After examining all this information, we come to the conclusion that self-care for daffodils at home is an easy job, but it requires care, knowledge and love for plants. Daffodils are unpretentious flowers, but still afraid of diseases and pests.

Follow some simple rules for these beautiful flowers. You can surprise your friends and acquaintances with the beauty on the windowsill, for example, in the winter season, or present a nice gift to your loved ones, say, by March 8th. Love and care for the plants and they will certainly answer you with their beauty and fragrant aromas of fresh flowers.

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